Perhaps the best communicator on how to in the sport, so much rich amount of detailed information with clear words and diagrams reference over those critical steps.The camera angle it really makes the difference to grasp much better the technique. Thank you so much Rio and Simon!!
Just watched this again. I'm surprised it only has 2500 plus views, its and excellent tutorial. I went out and played with this cast today, its a pretty cool cast!
Really like these videos guys! I bought my DH rod , need a scandi line and hopefully I can practice on grass first! But these shared knowledges are very important .Thanks again!
Fascinating, I look forward to working on that with the hooks cut off my fly. If I get it wrong things flying very close to one's face. I guess the vital bit of the intermediate stoke is to make sure your fly is still down stream of you.
No, almost impossible as the short head will probably leap out of the water. It isn't really needed with a Skagit type head, anyway - this is more for the longer head lines.
You certainly can, but be careful of using too short of a shooting head, as most of these moves could rip that short head out of the water and into the trees.
In your 3 disk spey casting video you talk about a more dynamic double spey. You talk about creating a V shape D loop. The difference I see is in your video you are very specific to not let the line hit the water however in this instruction you are letting the line fall. Is this an improvement to that casting information or is this a different cast? This cast is very close to a perry poke.
It is easier for most people to let the line stop and land on the water, before that second "kick", as if you time it wrong without letting it land, you will rip the anchor out, so that is a little more refined, and negates the additional spry and noise that letting it land allows to happen. It is pretty close to a perry poke indeed. As a matter of interest, Hugh Falkus first wrote about this in his Spey Casting book back in the 1980/90's when he called it the Contrived Loop.
It could well be classed as that because of the three separate moves before the D loop stroke. However, as the anchor doesn't change position during the two parts of this style of D loop stroke, it is technically still only a double Spey.
That is inefficient, as soon as you dump line onto the water you lose control of it, plus you have added a load of slack line into the cast, hence needing the move the align the D loop. You are effectively using a perry poke to make up for the inefficiency of the first movement. Much better is to control the upstream movement, and create a curve, then sweep around under control, your D loop will form and the delivery is simple
We spoke to Simon about this for clarification. He says that the reason for this "inefficient" first move is to stop the lateral directional movement of the D loop, and allow it to form more directly behind the caster, than forming downstream and behind the caster. He says the D loop will be be much more powerful with this move, but agrees it loses the smoothness and flow of a beautiful, traditional double Spey
Without a doubt, the best Spey instructor on the planet. Thanks Simon
Thanks for the kind words, cheers!
Perhaps the best communicator on how to in the sport, so much rich amount of detailed information with clear words and diagrams reference over those critical steps.The camera angle it really makes the difference to grasp much better the technique.
Thank you so much Rio and Simon!!
Thanks for the comment - we are glad you enjoyed it...
Thanks from Poland,top teaching skills!!
Just watched this again. I'm surprised it only has 2500 plus views, its and excellent tutorial. I went out and played with this cast today, its a pretty cool cast!
When it works, it's pretty sweet!!
Wow Simon! That was superb. Kudos and respect!
Thanks
That was one of the best two tips I have ever seen.
Thanks for the comment, TDJ- so glad you enjoyed it!
Great instruction Simon. Your videos have been a great help in my fishing journey.
Glad to have helped!
Really like these videos guys! I bought my DH rod , need a scandi line and hopefully I can practice on grass first! But these shared knowledges are very important .Thanks again!
I did not know that intermediate step! Thank you very much, I will practice it
Great! Good luck with the practice!
Top class tips!Thanks a lot from Poland.
Glad you enjoyed, it, thanks for the comment.
Great tuition as usual. What is the advice when the wind is upstream and my left shoulder is downstream.
Brilliant! Thanks, Simon!
Excellent tips! Best video yet…
Thanks for the kind words! Cheers!
Great advice Simon!
Fascinating, I look forward to working on that with the hooks cut off my fly. If I get it wrong things flying very close to one's face. I guess the vital bit of the intermediate stoke is to make sure your fly is still down stream of you.
Absolutely - good observation!!!
Great tips Simon. Next time out I am on it.
Have fun
I will make use of that. Thank You!
Great!
really useful.. thank you very much.
Glad you liked it, thanks Jerry
Muy buen video y bien explicado, saludos!
Excellent, thanks :)
Excellent
Thanks
im gonna go practice today!
Good luck with that!
Great video. It would be nice to see more tips for casting longer lines
More to come!
However can we do that double Spey cast with double anchoring with a Short Skagit Head???
No, almost impossible as the short head will probably leap out of the water. It isn't really needed with a Skagit type head, anyway - this is more for the longer head lines.
Hello Simon, can we apply the same technique using a 11 ft switch rod? Thanks
You certainly can, but be careful of using too short of a shooting head, as most of these moves could rip that short head out of the water and into the trees.
That kick out is almost like Perry poke off of the opposite shoulder.
In your 3 disk spey casting video you talk about a more dynamic double spey. You talk about creating a V shape D loop. The difference I see is in your video you are very specific to not let the line hit the water however in this instruction you are letting the line fall. Is this an improvement to that casting information or is this a different cast? This cast is very close to a perry poke.
It is easier for most people to let the line stop and land on the water, before that second "kick", as if you time it wrong without letting it land, you will rip the anchor out, so that is a little more refined, and negates the additional spry and noise that letting it land allows to happen. It is pretty close to a perry poke indeed. As a matter of interest, Hugh Falkus first wrote about this in his Spey Casting book back in the 1980/90's when he called it the Contrived Loop.
Isn't that a triple spey at that point?
It could well be classed as that because of the three separate moves before the D loop stroke. However, as the anchor doesn't change position during the two parts of this style of D loop stroke, it is technically still only a double Spey.
That is inefficient, as soon as you dump line onto the water you lose control of it, plus you have added a load of slack line into the cast, hence needing the move the align the D loop. You are effectively using a perry poke to make up for the inefficiency of the first movement.
Much better is to control the upstream movement, and create a curve, then sweep around under control, your D loop will form and the delivery is simple
I’ve seen Simon Gawesworth cast in real life. I might just take his advice over yours.
@@johnclarke9506 Funnily enough so have I, cast with him on a couple of occasions as well, he's superb, just think this is wrong
We spoke to Simon about this for clarification. He says that the reason for this "inefficient" first move is to stop the lateral directional movement of the D loop, and allow it to form more directly behind the caster, than forming downstream and behind the caster. He says the D loop will be be much more powerful with this move, but agrees it loses the smoothness and flow of a beautiful, traditional double Spey
@@RIOPRODUCTS makes perfect sense, thank you for responding, I appreciate it.
@@chrisaldred6030 No problem - thanks for the comment - we always appreciate those