Dutchman & Sizwheel Explained
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- lets swing this chestnut together. mind you that this particular job is a logger functioning a bit more like an arborist. the property is primary and log is secondary here. giving a good opportunity to demonstrate and consider the different concerns, tradeoffs of cutting more or less hinge and so forth.
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Did you ever go try to find that man who’s safety you were actually trying to watch out for?
Maybe you could at least just ask around as to “who it is”. Then I’m SURE that you’d be able to find him in your small “lil community”.
I actually got his number to call and apologize for coming off rude.. my brain just couldnt find the words to express the danger he was in. We are cool
Beautiful video. Want to give you props on a number of things.
1) great job putting safety before ego. Getting that guy the hell out of the danger zone regardless of feelings or your pride in “ahh I got this!”. Great job, I’m sure he’d understand and I’m even more sure his wife and kids appreciate his safety.
2) I got here from you using this to add to a comment on another loggers channel. Way to put your video up and not leave it to comment drama to make a point. Both of you make great content and I appreciate it.
3) good description of intent and nice felling job(:
Cheers and Shalom(:
Thanks doug, appreciate it!
What did you do when the bar gets pinched on the toe side before you started this new method of cutting perpendicular to your sight first? Is there usually an are where a wedge can be inserted?
I typically use the dozer and tree spear to shove the kerf back open and free it.
Or grab backup saw. Ive also chopped the saw out with a hatched a few times on junk practice trees.
This video is gold. Thank you for posting!!
Glad it was helpful!
What if you don't do a dutchman and open the face cut up. Wont the sizwheel (with the longer hinge wood) guide the tree down to where you sighted it against the lean? Why is there a need to swing it? Hope that makes sense
On this tree i sighted it to go a bit further than it actually held on for.. meaning i wanted it say 90 off its lean and it tore the stump out at like 70 or so, which was fine.
Im no expert, but what that tells me is no matter what kinda cut i put on it, the stump limited how far off lean itd hold for. maybe if id done a little better putting the high pad on the compression side or out a wedge in there, it coulda gone a bit further. It had to be swung to not puncture driveway. And i left enough hinge wood to blow not just the stump but also buttlog. I think any additional wood removed woulda just meant loosing it sooner.. like 50 or 60 degree swing.. know what im sayin? But who knows.. we can only fell em once.
@@certifiedhoarder From the video I cant tell, was there a pad on the compression side on this tree or did you miss your mark and theres no pad for the tree to sit as it comes down? Kinda looks like theres no pad and its a typical humboldt?
People live to find fault don't worry about it. Amazing video thanks for all the information. I've never even heard of sizwheel. 👍🏻
New subscriber!
Thanks man, i endeavor to provide some useful content.
Why does the tree swinging around help? I know you had to fell it away from the asphalt but why not just cut the notch away from the asphalt like normal? Was it where the tree’s weight was leaning? Also great video, trying to gain understanding of more than just techniques but why and when to use them based on the mechanics of felling and this video was a great help.
Good questions. So the tree wants to hit the road, lets say to the south. I want it to land on the hill to the trees west because thats the least distance for the top to hit the ground which usually means the lowest velocity and least destruction to the tree. Falling downhill for instance shatters trees and splits top logs because its so much higher velocity by the time they land. But beware, the top log is usually worth 1/3 or less of a buttlog so which one should we fret over? Yesterday i hauled in some 9ft x11" pallet logs i cut out of tops just so i didnt habe to burn them. $3. So who cares? Buttlogs are more like $60 out of the same small low grade oak. These are just scrubby cull trees. If the chestnut in this video had a straight clear buttlog that didnt split, itd be about $200
So the big question of why to use a pie shape hinge instead of a regular hinge?
The tree has a heavy bias to go south. We need to send it east or west, north is not an option. The fiber on the south side is in compression, it isnt really holding the tree. The north side is in very high tension and is critical to keep the tree from going south like it wants. I need this north facing fiber to anchor the tree so i can persuade the top to keel over sideways, to the west. A straight even hinge would be halving the wood where i need it and adding it where i dont.
Lets say the tree didnt have a big lean, and a 1" wide hinge all the way across would be appropriate. Well if the tree is on a lean but you need it to stay up against its lean you need to take the 1" from compression side and add it to the tension side. If you just put in a straight 1" hinge suitable for that flatland tree, youll lose it. The tension side is all the matters on a leaner and if too thin itll tear off. The tree will go after its lean. The more you wedge it off the lean, the more youre helping tear that hinge. If you want it to go off the lean and no lose it into the lean, the tension wood must hold. Yet it also has to flex, so thats what the sizwheel is about.. its a clearance cut to lengthen fibers and allow flexibility to prevent snapping.
Arborists leave a massive hinge for "control" and then push pull or wedge until it breaks and goes over.. usually destroying the log, but who cares. They typically leave or dump the logs at some firewooders house. Loggers have to manufacture sawlogs. We do everything to salvage the buttlog with as little chance of pulling fibers out of the log. Sacrificing control is some peoples eyes. Once you actually become a logger you realize you dont need to be as in control as you think, and the hinges can get a lot smaller down to none at all if you know what youre doing. A tree with no hinge cannot barber chair and has a lot less chance of getting snagged in other trees on the way down through a dense stand. When totally free of the stump a snag is rareand if they do happen you just nudge with the dozer, theyll roll loose just about every time, sliding down to the ground.
@@certifiedhoarder thank you so much for the detailed response, I’m 16 yrs old and desperately trying to get into this stuff in the summer because I have a small sawmill and love for chainsaws and seeing experienced loggers jump cut and not use hinges seems like magic sometimes but I’m excited to learn the fundamentals that allow them to do those cuts.
@@inclinedtoplane2924
Im glad to help son. Just keep a few things in mind. Lots of people die logging. The rain of limbs falling from the sky, barberchair, hanging around the stump yanking on a stuck saw as the tree goes over, getting pinned under a rolling tree stem while bucking or topping, getting smashed by a spring loaded branch set free during topping, and running wildly from a top gone wrong and headed your way instead of sidestepping nearer to the stump with your eyes on it are all things that come to mind. You will be putting your life on the line with every tree, especially while learning new techniques. Let the saw get crushed, so you can be at moms next birthday party. Dont ever trust a tree or assume this one will obey like all the ones before it. Dont let your wins go to your head. Every tree in the woods is looking at you, scheming to take your life. You can love them, but theyre youre adversary and you better stay 3 steps ahead not just of the ones youre cutting, but the ones next to it as well.
God bless ya kid. Stay safe.
@@certifiedhoarder thanks, needed to hear that, iv been rushing cuts, destroyed a bar, almost a chainsaw. could have been alot worse. It was the easy tree too. But the wind took it. I Should have been using wedges even for the easy cut. It would have been a good idea. From now on im going to assume "easy" trees dont exist.
@@CoreyFriske be careful. Be paranoid. Be thinking of every possible ending like final destination or hunger games. No one is there to cheer your wins, but theres a lot of people thatll miss you if you lose.
LIke the vid. LIke listening to you. But, sorry, I still don't understand the science of these 'dutchmen' and 'sizwheel' things. Just don't get it. Tell me this basic thing: are you trying to prevent something happening or are you trying to make something happen?
Get what i mean?
Like you make a hinge at 90 deg to where you want the thing to fall. So that's 'to make something happen'.
But if it has a lean to one side, away from where you want it to fall, then I imagine you might make the hinge thicker at the tension side of the hinge (the tension coming from the lean) so's it finds it harder to go that way. That's 'preventing something happening'. What's it all about? Which?
Youre trying to do 1 thing and prevent another.
If the tree wants to fall north but must fall east, youre trying to make it fall east. Thats where the notching is done. To aim it east.
Youre trying NOT to lose it to the north, thus all the hold wood is on the south side to prevent it from going north.
@@certifiedhoarder Yep Thanks for the reply. I've been thinking on it and I reckon I've got some kind of understanding of it that makes sense to me at least.
Like this:
Here is a tree leaning North.
I want it to fall East.
So I cut so's I have a hinge that runs North South. Okay so far.
But the tree will try to tear that hinge off. It still wants to fall North.
I can't make the hinge thicker because it won't begin to fall until the hinge is thin enough.
So I make the back (the southern) end of the hinge thicker.
And that thicker bit holds the tree and stops it falling North.
How's that sound?
@@abrogard if a normal hinge on a 24" tree at the cut is 1" x 24" thats normal right? If the tree is vertical the whole of that hinge is compression wood.
On a heavy leaner half is very compressed, half is very tensed. Its being lifted upward like a hair being tweezed. Only the tension wood keeps the tree standing. Compression side is useless. So delete half the hinge on the compression side and add that to the tension side. Now theres enough tension wood for it to stay standing while you do things to make it go over, but not at its lean. The hold tab is juat this doubled up tension side only hinge. Too small you lose the tree to its lean. Too much and you cant get it to keel over sideways.
@@certifiedhoarder Yep. That's exactly how i see it. So what's the point of cutting this big notch? The take a big chunk out on the falling side of the hinge and at the back - the tension side. Why?
@@abrogard how else is the tree gonna start keeling over in the direction you need it to fall? A notch is akin to the ocean eroding the cliff underneath a house and the house eventually falls into the water.
My notches are pretty minimal.
Another great vid
Xoxo