Just followed, took 3 tries since I couldn't seem to comprehend the Spring Tension but I got it set to high force with no problems and I'm happier with it at high! Much more satisfying/feel like I'm more aware of how much throttle I'm pushing down. (Using for Star Citizen/Space)
Well, I bought these pedals 1 year ago yesterday and here is my little review after using them a lot over the past year; For Flying Circus I love em' and not having toe-breaks is no big deal because WW1 aircraft did not have toe breaks anyways. For flying in IL2, not having toe breaks can be a real pain in the ass because most planes had wheel-breaks, especially the German planes because they used differential breaking on each wheel, which can be a freaking nightmare just trying to taxi to the runway. However, once you get some rudder authority while taking off and get up in the air....these pedals are better than my Crosswinds when it comes to precision. If you can live with breaking via B and N key on your keyboard then I highly recommended these. And the price for this fine piece of hardware is the icing on the cake!
Bro, you can double assign the axis so that it deflects rudder and applies brake on that side simultaneously. It's an absolute game changer - now I have differential braking on every aircraft even though the T rudder doesn't have toe brakes, works like a charm, even in DCS.
Great video, really easy to follow! I flipped the cam to over to the detent-less side, and changed over to the other spring, at the higher force position in a matter of 5-6 minutes. It really is a very nice design. A suggestion for the Mk5 though, perhaps make the spring tension screw adjustable while assembled, rather than requiring the user to disassemble the unit. by putting the other end of the spring on a lever arm, you could use another screw like the tension reliever to adjust the tension. I would also suggest moving the top bearing to its own plate that bolts onto the top of the base. Have a cavity under this base large enough that you can take the cam out. This would allow you to access the cam while leaving the unit mostly assembled. Still a great design as is, but these features might make a future revision a little more user friendly. Thanks again
Would be nice if you could just dial up the tension with a single hex wrench instead of a complete disassembly. Hard to know if you want the extra tension until you go through the whole procedure then maybe you have to go back all over again because the earlier tension was preferable. This way it is either default or max unless you buy different springs, nothing in between for a fine tune.
Super easy swap for a higher tension. Definitely like the higher setting better than the stock for smoother more precise movement. All in all took around 10 minutes, either use the tools provided or use your own. Super simple!
I ended up flipping just the Cam in mine. It's like the happy medium between the Normal and High pedal force. Still has the soft center feel but gets progressively harder to push the further down you go without all that extra spring load on it.
@@divij5424 At 1:40 in the video you see the guy removing the Cam. It has two profiles 180° apart from one another(you can spin it 180 on the shaft and it'll still lock in place). It has two Ramp rates. One steep, one shallow. The shallow one gives you more fine adjustment around the middle which makes it feel slower at the beginning. The Steeper profile makes the pedals "feel" faster and a little more twitchy around the middle.
@@SternLX thanks for that! I understand now. Just to do confirm, the shallow profile is the default and you switched it over to the steeper one, is that correct? Thanks for the help!
Is there a way to make the pedals taller? I’m assuming I have to adjust the linkage between the pedals and the cam, but I’m not sure how to adjust it to make the linkage longer. Do I loosen both nuts on the end and then spin the middle piece to extend it? I believe that’s how you would adjust a similar car part, just wondering if it’s the same for this product. I mainly fly helicopters in sims so I’d prefer more of a front to back motion than an up and down type motion.
Awesome pedals:-)) Actually prefer them over my Crosswinds. Better than the real thing - Huey pedals! Software is NOT user friendly. Hope the come out with a vid on utilizing software to it's max potential.
nice video for nice product !! could you tell me please if the 2 link rod end can be adjustable to increase its lenght ? this product work properly without spring to avoid neutral position and be close to helicopter motion ?
@@rolliepollie6546 Make sure the spring tension is set properly, if that screw is too far in, the lever won't engage the cam. Back it off a little bit until the bearing on the lever contacts the cam.
Too bad they didn't use less sizes of Allen screw for everything. Looks like there is room to accommodate some size variance. Also disassembly looks like a bit of a PITA. A bit more engineering might lead to a more one sided solution with less tool requirements. Great otherwise!
Has anyone figured out - The pedal travel from signal output extremes (full right to full left SIGNAL output) happens in less than half the physical travel of the pedals. ie, push the pedal LEFT and it goes to full left deflection in about 1/3 of the physical pedal travel. There's two thirds of the pedal travel left and there's no output change. It's already peaked at zero or 65,000. Anyone know how to make the signal output less compressed into that small bit of travel? I'd like the pedals' electrical travel to match their mechanical travel.
I suggest to look into the Curves function ua-cam.com/video/rSi11U5J6tg/v-deo.html. Or visit our Discord server for further guidance: discord.gg/UJAdpdHpYm
I dont quiute understand wtf does the screw in the middle of the spring do? I just unhooked the spring and done lol. A ton of unneccessary steps as I see.
for some reason i was under impression the Mk5's come with the alternate cam included... bit surprise it does not... implies another extended international order, eish...
No, there is an alternate cam included in the mk V! It's just not a separate component. The cam piece (@ 1:30) is dual-ended, with cam surfaces on both sides. Just turn it over to use the other side.
Thanks for the info! Seems like that would not be too ideal for some aircraft especially during take offs and landings. These do appear to be well made ....the quality looks nice. There is some nice aftermarket stuff out there..I don't care much for my Saitek Combat Pedals...they do the job but quality is fair at best.
Horrible design! I had a nightmare trying to put the spring over to the "high force" position. Bits fell out while I was disassembling and I couldn't see where they came from. Would have been much easier to have the back plate come off or better still, some way of changing tension without removing anything. The tensioner screw seems to do nothing now. I've got two lockwashers left over and no idea where they belong. Otherwise I love the pedals but taking them apart is a bit of a mess and you can't see to photograph each bit before you begin.
Theyre honestly the best out there for the price. The next best quality-wise requires you to drop 400 bucks more just for toe brakes. Assign a button and it's really no big deal.
Do you really spend that much time braking in the sim? I would find it difficult to believe that "Realistic braking" is any kind of game changer for flight sim.
That's ridiculous... certainly from the same guy that designed the Renault Megane II headlight unit where you need to disassamble half of the front of the car to access the bulb holder...
@@jeremyphipps777 It could have been a five second job if they'd engineer the assembly with an externally adjustable spring. For me that's covered under "Ridiculous".
Just followed, took 3 tries since I couldn't seem to comprehend the Spring Tension but I got it set to high force with no problems and I'm happier with it at high! Much more satisfying/feel like I'm more aware of how much throttle I'm pushing down. (Using for Star Citizen/Space)
o7
o7
Well, I bought these pedals 1 year ago yesterday and here is my little review after using them a lot over the past year; For Flying Circus I love em' and not having toe-breaks is no big deal because WW1 aircraft did not have toe breaks anyways. For flying in IL2, not having toe breaks can be a real pain in the ass because most planes had wheel-breaks, especially the German planes because they used differential breaking on each wheel, which can be a freaking nightmare just trying to taxi to the runway. However, once you get some rudder authority while taking off and get up in the air....these pedals are better than my Crosswinds when it comes to precision. If you can live with breaking via B and N key on your keyboard then I highly recommended these. And the price for this fine piece of hardware is the icing on the cake!
Do you use light or tight tension? what is better? I'm going to tighten the spring but I doubt for now.
@@alex-mos I use tight tension. As to which works best, tight or light, it's all about personal preference.
Bro, you can double assign the axis so that it deflects rudder and applies brake on that side simultaneously. It's an absolute game changer - now I have differential braking on every aircraft even though the T rudder doesn't have toe brakes, works like a charm, even in DCS.
@@Northornehow?
Great video, really easy to follow! I flipped the cam to over to the detent-less side, and changed over to the other spring, at the higher force position in a matter of 5-6 minutes. It really is a very nice design. A suggestion for the Mk5 though, perhaps make the spring tension screw adjustable while assembled, rather than requiring the user to disassemble the unit. by putting the other end of the spring on a lever arm, you could use another screw like the tension reliever to adjust the tension.
I would also suggest moving the top bearing to its own plate that bolts onto the top of the base. Have a cavity under this base large enough that you can take the cam out. This would allow you to access the cam while leaving the unit mostly assembled.
Still a great design as is, but these features might make a future revision a little more user friendly. Thanks again
Would be nice if you could just dial up the tension with a single hex wrench instead of a complete disassembly. Hard to know if you want the extra tension until you go through the whole procedure then maybe you have to go back all over again because the earlier tension was preferable. This way it is either default or max unless you buy different springs, nothing in between for a fine tune.
There needs to be a more accessible way to adjust this spring tension. The mk5 model still has the same issue.
Whoever tightened the 13mm bearing nut on the unit I ordered way over torqued it.
4 years on 4 me These are solid
Super easy swap for a higher tension. Definitely like the higher setting better than the stock for smoother more precise movement. All in all took around 10 minutes, either use the tools provided or use your own. Super simple!
Отличная видео инструкция!
Good video manual!
(^_^)
I ended up flipping just the Cam in mine. It's like the happy medium between the Normal and High pedal force. Still has the soft center feel but gets progressively harder to push the further down you go without all that extra spring load on it.
Sounds good but what do you mean by flipping the cam? How do I go about doing that? Any help will be appreciated, thanks!
@@divij5424 At 1:40 in the video you see the guy removing the Cam. It has two profiles 180° apart from one another(you can spin it 180 on the shaft and it'll still lock in place). It has two Ramp rates. One steep, one shallow. The shallow one gives you more fine adjustment around the middle which makes it feel slower at the beginning. The Steeper profile makes the pedals "feel" faster and a little more twitchy around the middle.
@@SternLX thanks for that! I understand now. Just to do confirm, the shallow profile is the default and you switched it over to the steeper one, is that correct?
Thanks for the help!
@@divij5424 Yes. I switched it over to the Steeper one.
My cam is a little bit asysmmetrical in default position, so the left leg is harder to push than the right one
Is there a way to make the pedals taller? I’m assuming I have to adjust the linkage between the pedals and the cam, but I’m not sure how to adjust it to make the linkage longer. Do I loosen both nuts on the end and then spin the middle piece to extend it? I believe that’s how you would adjust a similar car part, just wondering if it’s the same for this product. I mainly fly helicopters in sims so I’d prefer more of a front to back motion than an up and down type motion.
i got worried when i noticed that mine didnt have the upper cam bearing but it just got stuck in the case so now im relived
Awesome pedals:-)) Actually prefer them over my Crosswinds. Better than the real thing - Huey pedals! Software is NOT user friendly. Hope the come out with a vid on utilizing software to it's max potential.
I found zero use for the software. Plugged them in and they were setup appropriately with no intervention from me.
nice video for nice product !! could you tell me please if the 2 link rod end can be adjustable to increase its lenght ? this product work properly without spring to avoid neutral position and be close to helicopter motion ?
The spring is there to help the Cam self center. Without it the pedals would just flop back and forth without the tension but they would still work.
@@SternLX my pedals are currently just flopping back and forth. Any idea what I did wrong?
@@rolliepollie6546 Make sure the spring tension is set properly, if that screw is too far in, the lever won't engage the cam. Back it off a little bit until the bearing on the lever contacts the cam.
Too bad they didn't use less sizes of Allen screw for everything. Looks like there is room to accommodate some size variance. Also disassembly looks like a bit of a PITA. A bit more engineering might lead to a more one sided solution with less tool requirements. Great otherwise!
What's the resolution on these? I don't see any info on the site as well. Better than the TM?
About the same, but contactless and sensitive enough so you can't move the rudders without output response.
Has anyone figured out -
The pedal travel from signal output extremes (full right to full left SIGNAL output) happens in less than half the physical travel of the pedals. ie, push the pedal LEFT and it goes to full left deflection in about 1/3 of the physical pedal travel. There's two thirds of the pedal travel left and there's no output change. It's already peaked at zero or 65,000.
Anyone know how to make the signal output less compressed into that small bit of travel? I'd like the pedals' electrical travel to match their mechanical travel.
I suggest to look into the Curves function ua-cam.com/video/rSi11U5J6tg/v-deo.html. Or visit our Discord server for further guidance: discord.gg/UJAdpdHpYm
What is the hex wrench size for the Tensioner?
Great product!
I dont quiute understand wtf does the screw in the middle of the spring do? I just unhooked the spring and done lol. A ton of unneccessary steps as I see.
Hi could you tell me more detail? I am looking for a faster way to change the force from normal to high😢
@@luika112 been a year sorry i dont remember in any case just do what the tutorial says when in doubt
Педальки класс! )))
for some reason i was under impression the Mk5's come with the alternate cam included... bit surprise it does not... implies another extended international order, eish...
No, there is an alternate cam included in the mk V! It's just not a separate component. The cam piece (@ 1:30) is dual-ended, with cam surfaces on both sides. Just turn it over to use the other side.
I love these pedals, I would like them to be tighter however I am not a qulaified mechanical engineer. :(
how does the virtual toe brake software work?
Thanks for the info! Seems like that would not be too ideal for some aircraft especially during take offs and landings. These do appear to be well made ....the quality looks nice. There is some nice aftermarket stuff out there..I don't care much for my Saitek Combat Pedals...they do the job but quality is fair at best.
Or buy a grip with an analogue brake lever
Or just fly WW1 aircraft and you don't have to worry about breaks at all, because they didn't have any ;)
Horrible design! I had a nightmare trying to put the spring over to the "high force" position. Bits fell out while I was disassembling and I couldn't see where they came from. Would have been much easier to have the back plate come off or better still, some way of changing tension without removing anything. The tensioner screw seems to do nothing now. I've got two lockwashers left over and no idea where they belong.
Otherwise I love the pedals but taking them apart is a bit of a mess and you can't see to photograph each bit before you begin.
All that for tension adjustment? No toe brakes? Quality looks good, applause for expanding the market.
Virtual brakes - Need to assign a button on the joystick etc. and they become brakes.
Theyre honestly the best out there for the price. The next best quality-wise requires you to drop 400 bucks more just for toe brakes. Assign a button and it's really no big deal.
Do you really spend that much time braking in the sim? I would find it difficult to believe that "Realistic braking" is any kind of game changer for flight sim.
@@DrLumpyDMus For any ac wheel brakes are vital. Taxi, landing. My original comment is six years old, btw.
My bolts on the cam bent.
As good as those seem for helicopters, I need proper toebrakes in pedals for fixed wing aircraft
That's ridiculous... certainly from the same guy that designed the Renault Megane II headlight unit where you need to disassamble half of the front of the car to access the bulb holder...
It's literally a 5 minute job to completely change its inner core workings. I don't see how that's "ridiculous."
@@jeremyphipps777 It could have been a five second job if they'd engineer the assembly with an externally adjustable spring. For me that's covered under "Ridiculous".
toebrakes ?
Virtual brakes - Need to assign a button on the joystick etc. and they become brakes.
No.
Virtual toe brakes.... com'on guys.... not for me.... looks solid tho....good price.... looking elsewhere.....
not very practical...