Hi PETER, I worked for 30 years as a sports photographer in Belgium and was very surprised by your beautiful photos. The conclusions you make about OM1 are correct . The 2nd version of the OM1 requires a CF express CARD slot to use PRO capture (pro capture more important indoor sports). Peter as you may know in sports photography there is a lot of cropping (therefore full-frame). A photo for the newspaper may be a maximum of 8 mpx. Very good video Peter
Many thanks for your comment about my images. I did crop a few of these images. In many images there was a hand or a foot sticking from the edge. So images are cropped to be a bit tighter.
I'll hijack this to give our friend Peter some tips from someone who shot MLS and NHL. Crop your images. A lot. Leaving them as is you are leaving an OK picture. Eg. @4:18, 60% of the picture could be cropped. And, straighten your horizons. They're not playing on a boat so horizon should be straight. If you don't see a horizon, use something that you know should be straight. Now I wish I didn't change careers... wait, no I don't. 🙂
Great video as always, Peter. I've been a sports shooter for decades and all of your tips are spot on. Keep up the great work. I always look forward to your 'bell' ringing with a new video.
Excellent video Peter. I really like practical demos like this because they show more of the capabilities of the lens/camera combo than a review. You brought up many points of interest which I found as relevant for wildlife photography as for sports. Thanks for a very useful video.
Glad it was helpful! I agree about the format. usually when the lens is new and it is reviewed the problem is that I usually have the lens only a few days.
Thanks a lot Peter. Very helpful. I'll be out tomorrow with my OM-1 and the 40-150/2.8 shooting kids football. Will try your settings C-AF, face priority, high sequential.
Hey Peter! Great video! I use my E-M5 mark ii along with my 40-150mm f4-5.6 and 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 to shoot my sister in laws games. She plays college softball here in the USA for Indiana State University. I love shooting sports! I hope one day to be an OM Visionary and shoot sports and concert events!
Great example of how even a seasoned Olympus photographer like yourself can learn and grow with your equipment.. I bought an EM1 mark II just for the purpose of accessing the superior focus capabilities that this camera had over my Panasonic gear.. especially using Olympus legacy 4/3 glass.. then I bought a Mark III.. and then the 45 - 150 each step was a learning curve to maximize the capabilities. Your video here was a perfect example of that journey and the effort it takes to get the most out of your gear and yourself.
Thank you for the review, I was looking at the em1.3 or om-1 for shooting high school football (soccer) for my son's last year of high school, so only a few more games left before transitioning to doing more casual shoots. Of course things got more complicated for me as I just received a job offer from Canon, not in the camera division...lol. Complete First World problems. Thanks again, stay safe. Cheers from the Jersey Shore.
Great video Peter. You mentioned one thing that truly is a lost art, anticipating the shot. You need to have good knowledge of the game to do that. Before all of these high tech digital cameras came to be, sports photographers captured great sports images with film, manual focus, and much lower frame rates. talking to many photographers today, it seems to many of them, that it is impossible to get those images without the technology. Skill seems a bit under rated these days ....and it shouldn't because it is still important.
Thanks Peter. I shoot a lot of American Football, often in poorly lit fields at night. Even F2.8 is often not fast enough. So, there are two things I would like to see from OM: 1- A big brother to the 75mmF1.8 prime, say a 100mmF2 small lens that I could use in bad light situations or indoors. 200mm equivalent would be enough for most situations. 2- A Human Tracking AI that would find the body and focus on the head. In american football, the face detect does not work since the players are wearing helmets(as they ar in many other sports)
Great tips Peter - and some good results. I haven't done footie for quite a few years now but still do Cricket most weeks in the summer and the same tips go with that game too - know the sport and that will lead you to a good position. My view when it comes to rating a good footie picture is to look for three elements: ball, faces and action. Thank you for posting.
This is a great video Peter! I would be very interested to see how the camera and lens combination works for indoor sports. Would be great if you could make a video about it.
@@ForsgardPeter If you have the 45mm/f1.8 you might find that an even better option for you. I shot both women's volleyball and basketball with it. I think you'll find even at f/2.8 the ISO will get bumped up over what you want indoors...
I have found that C-AF tracking is ok even on original version E-M1 in the case of cycling, which I photograph a lot. In sports like cyclocross or mountain bike racing where riders are often alone in the frame, the tracking works really well. I can half-press on the approaching rider and the tracking locks on well enough until I decide to take the shot. In crowded scenes, like a peloton in a road race or criterium, then there can be problems. In those cases, I tend to zoom into the rider I am interested in to block out others from the frame.
Great tips. I shoot games on occasions, as my sons play Gaelic football and hurling (hurling is played with a stick and is the fastest fieldsport in the world). Your focus technique, positioning and anticipation will improve my stuff a lot more. Ball in shot, definitely - thanks.
Peter I recently bought a Pentax 150-450 for my Pentax APS-C cameras I haven't used it enough to give you a review. Before that I was using a 55 -300 lens for wildlife photography.
Peter as simple as it seems your recommendation about shooting lower to the ground I NEVER thought of that. I think probably it's inconvenient but definitely will have a cool dynamic. some pro sports stadium photography areas are kind of lower to the ground I think too so the photographers might be standing in a "well" about 4 feet below the field surface.
Peter! Thank you for doing this! I have been thinking of grabbing this lens! I do wish OM would create a "HUMAN SUBJECT" in the AI Subject Tracking. But I personally come from older Canon 1DX and 1D's so this style of shooting is how I still shoot today with my Olympus/OM cameras. Having a stool is a MUST have for sports photography! I have one of those folding Ikea stools that can change heights and I do love it a lot. Another Great video! Also, since you're are doing some sports, I think it would be FANTASTIC to capture some motorsports! Finland is one of the best places for motorsports! I DREAM of being able to shoot at KymiRing!
@@ForsgardPeter oh yea, I knew it was bankrupt. It was just always a dream if mine. But I do hope you do more different types of sports! I feel like the OM is most at home with those types of photography!
I have ~150 zoom lenses but always find them too short and so prefer the ~200. You can pull them back but they have that little bit more reach when you need it. I find useful reach goes by up by times-two - 12, 25, 50, 100, 200, 400. Both flavours have nice 200mm zooms. I tend to use GX12-35, GX35-100, G45-200, PL100-400 (all of my zoom lenses are Lumix, they work on both flavours) and probably two cameras, G9 and an Ollie. Of course Olympus IS lenses will fit Lumix but their stabilisation is crippled, for example the Ollie 100-400 IS will only give you Lens-IS on the G9. The two companies seem to like shooting themselves in the foot when they should be using joined-up thinking to sell lenses to both flavours.
Thanks for this Peter!! Do you have any advise on symphony orchestra in low light setting from the balcony or in the crowd in school auditoriums using MFT cameras or olympus/leica 100-400mm lenses? Thank you!!
Surprisingly critical video. Many thanks for that Peter. Ofcourse elephant in the room is that it is very hard, or nearly impossible to properly separate object from the background with the setup u used. This is a very good lesson for everyone interested in sports or wildlife photography. Narrow field of view "long rech" is not the only important aspect. Your object should not only fill the frame and be sharp in it, but moast importantly it should look good in it. Play the maine role, be seperated from the bacground. Did that setup provided what is intneeded or not?
Thanks Peter, this is a very good video. Shooting sports is good practice for wildlife shooting. Also, familiarity with your subject is more important than the latest gear. I think the reliance on technology is turning out less-skilled photographers. If a photographer can't get a decent image without using burst then they are not very talented. Spray and pray isn't photography.
Festival chairs ftw! 😅 I use the exact same chair when going to photograph dragon flies and damsels 😊 but I guess you need to know a little bit about the teams, to get the better spot? My chair has 2 cup holders 😊 1 for water and the other for my phone 😊 How do you like the lens so far? Have you been able to play with some optical illusions, on moon or sun? 😊
@@ForsgardPeter Great! - is the stabilisation good enough to track and focus? Have you tried the teleconverters? I'm considering an OM1 system, or a G9, or a Sony apcs(where is that A6700?), looking for a versatile light weight system, weatherproof and fast, because I don't want to hold up my partners.
Quick question Peter, My father and I have used Olympus lenses and camera for over 20 years, and I've been wondering, and I never could have a chance to test out some OM lenses because they were either rare or expensive at the time. Is there by any chance you could do a video about the OM Zuiko 1000mm f11 lens, and maybe shoot some shots of the moon or even a close shot of the surface because of the 2x crop factor for MFT. I know it's sharpness might be lackluster since it is an f11 lens, but I think it might be an interesting find if you put it on a tripod and put on manual priority for shutter speed and exposure. Thank you and good luck.
What remote did you use, Peter? Great video and information!! I shoot soccer matches with my Em1 Mk ii and the 40-150mm F2.8. Very happy with the results.
Thank you, Peter. I tried football on Saturday, using your settings. I did not achieve a very good hit rate. The face detect didn't show in the viewfinder, so I wonder if I have missed something? Also, yesterday, I was photographing a musician and face detect square showed up when I pressed the shutter half way down, but only for a couple of seconds - should it not show all the time I have the shutter pressed half way down? Maybe it's faulty, or maybe I have a setting missing.
@@ForsgardPeter I thought so. However, the light was very harsh, which is never ideal for sport. This Saturday, I am going to try again That chart on page 89 of the manual confuses me; which is the best setting there? Thank you for coming back to me, Peter.
Hi Peter So I am a beginner What setting did u use manual? Aperture ? Did I miss this ? I have the Olympus E-M1mark 11 Used that lenses and got a lot of noise in my shots. So angry but was told to use aperture setting but my shutter speed kept on changing I have written down your settings but now need to actually practice Thanks
I used the lens full open all the time. at 100mm the aperture was F5.0 and and at 400mm it was F6.3. If the focal length was something between the aperture was between those numbers. ISO was 800. That way I was able to get the fastest possible shutter speed to freeze the motion. It quite sunny so i did not have problem with too slow shutter speeds. There are no right settings. It all depends on the amount of light and what is the look you want to have. Here is some more info about the shutter and shutter speed: ua-cam.com/video/h5hwK8QAVtw/v-deo.html
For my taste, the photos have too much depth of field and therefore a nervous background. For football i use the Olympus 40-150mm 2.8 mostly at 150mm and only with aperture 2.8. But even here too much depth of field sometimes bothers me, which is why i sometimes use my Canon RP with EF 200mm 2.8 to free up the motif better. By the way, i am very satisfied with the AF tracking of my Oly E-M5lll.
Habe leider keine neue OM-1, nur eine EM1X, die Telelinsen bis 400mm habe ich alle wieder verkauft(mit Verlust) aber die taugen alle nichts und gerade bei Sport und Tiere, Wasser oder Luft, nicht dafür geeignet. Ob es jetzt mit der neuen Kamera besser ist ? kann ich eben nicht beurteilen, werde sie mir auch nicht kaufen, viel zu teuer. Habe nun eine Sony RX10iv und die ist um Welten besser, adieu Olympus.
IS off? The PL100-400 on the Lumix G9 simply loves the Dual2 stabilisation. Sadly the M.Zuiko 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS does not support Sync-IS but should support "Olympus Dual IS" which is both independently, not synchronised (which happens with Lumix OIS lenses on Ollie backs e.g. G45-200 on E-M5ii). With Dual2 running on G9 I can swing the PL100-400 about like a bat, where you appear to be holding the Ollie like someone shooting field target rifle seated, (yes it is a very stable position). Can you or anyone else explain why "Olympus Dual IS" (pat.pend 2014) is so badly documented, to non-existent? I've found - switch IS on at the lens (if switch), in menu turn "Use Lens IS" Off. Listen to stabiliser noises in lens and body. If you set "Use Lens IS" On, it will only use the Lens-OIS. Panny backs don't do this at all, if you switch IS off at the lens, everything is off. Dual-IS/Dual2 is only supported by a range of Lumix lenses, fortunately most of them. Olympus IS lenses are not supported (so much for shared standards). With older non Dual compatible Lumix lenses, they will only use their Lens-OIS.
On the em1- mkII the OIS switch on the 100-400 Pan/Leica disables the cameras IBIS. So to shoot birds or sports I set IBIS to S-IS 2 to remove vertical shake and turn the OIS off. If the action requires a shutter speed below 1/1250 I use the OIS. It's like anything - just experiment and find what works for you.
@@tdunster2011 To use the "Olympus Dual IS" do as I described above. Olympus will let you use either/or, Panasonic will not. Extra-long lenses generally benefit from using Lens-IS rather than IBIS. My E-M5ii will use "Olympus Dual IS", which is better than Lens-OIS or IBIS alone but not a patch on the G9s Dual2 where the view becomes frozen which aids framing and AF and metering, and it can be waved around like an ultra-wide. What I don't get and do not understand is why Olympus do not provide any instructions on how to use their "Olympus Dual IS" (which is not the Sync-IS).
Pro Capture is a bit like the Lumix Pre-Burst - it takes like two dozen photos, takes its own sweet time processing them, and then stuffs your card. All a bit waste of milk ;) If they're going to add stuff like this it needs a much bigger faster processor and a lot more memory so it doesn't sit there with dumb insolence chewing the cud and buffering. Bird shot, machine gun, good. Ooo, another bird, no it is busy, missed it. Ooo, another birdie, no it is still chuntering, drat. Stares at camera ...
There's two main issues with pre-burst on the G9. The first, like you mention, is that even though the G9 technically has dual UHS-II slots they run at just slightly faster than half the speed of the single UHS-II slot on the E-Mii and a bit over 40% of the speed of the two slots on the OM-1 so it takes a long time to clear the buffer. The second issue is that when you switch to pre-burst mode, or SH1, it stops using the stills C-AF system and switches over to the video C-AF system which performs much worse. ProCapture, especially on the OM-1, is much better implemented than Pre-Burst on the G9.
Football, it's called football from the people who invented the game. Let's not pander to the North American colonies who have barely mastered the language
Sorry to hear that you did like the images. It would be nice hear a more in-depth feedback, since you must know a lot about photographing. Now the feedback was a bit general and does not tell much.
Hi PETER, I worked for 30 years as a sports photographer in Belgium and was very surprised by your beautiful photos. The conclusions you make about OM1 are correct . The 2nd version of the OM1 requires a CF express CARD slot to use PRO capture (pro capture more important indoor sports). Peter as you may know in sports photography there is a lot of cropping (therefore full-frame). A photo for the newspaper may be a maximum of 8 mpx. Very good video Peter
Many thanks for your comment about my images. I did crop a few of these images. In many images there was a hand or a foot sticking from the edge. So images are cropped to be a bit tighter.
I'll hijack this to give our friend Peter some tips from someone who shot MLS and NHL.
Crop your images. A lot. Leaving them as is you are leaving an OK picture. Eg. @4:18, 60% of the picture could be cropped.
And, straighten your horizons. They're not playing on a boat so horizon should be straight. If you don't see a horizon, use something that you know should be straight.
Now I wish I didn't change careers... wait, no I don't. 🙂
Great video as always, Peter. I've been a sports shooter for decades and all of your tips are spot on. Keep up the great work. I always look forward to your 'bell' ringing with a new video.
Thank you for sharing this information with us
Excellent video Peter. I really like practical demos like this because they show more of the capabilities of the lens/camera combo than a review. You brought up many points of interest which I found as relevant for wildlife photography as for sports. Thanks for a very useful video.
Glad it was helpful! I agree about the format. usually when the lens is new and it is reviewed the problem is that I usually have the lens only a few days.
Thanks a lot Peter. Very helpful. I'll be out tomorrow with my OM-1 and the 40-150/2.8 shooting kids football. Will try your settings C-AF, face priority, high sequential.
Hope it works for you.
I photography my daughter cheer leading team. This video was excellent. I picked up some great tips. Time to get my stool.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Peter! Great video! I use my E-M5 mark ii along with my 40-150mm f4-5.6 and 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 to shoot my sister in laws games. She plays college softball here in the USA for Indiana State University. I love shooting sports! I hope one day to be an OM Visionary and shoot sports and concert events!
Great example of how even a seasoned Olympus photographer like yourself can learn and grow with your equipment.. I bought an EM1 mark II just for the purpose of accessing the superior focus capabilities that this camera had over my Panasonic gear.. especially using Olympus legacy 4/3 glass.. then I bought a Mark III.. and then the 45 - 150 each step was a learning curve to maximize the capabilities. Your video here was a perfect example of that journey and the effort it takes to get the most out of your gear and yourself.
Thank you for the review, I was looking at the em1.3 or om-1 for shooting high school football (soccer) for my son's last year of high school, so only a few more games left before transitioning to doing more casual shoots. Of course things got more complicated for me as I just received a job offer from Canon, not in the camera division...lol. Complete First World problems. Thanks again, stay safe. Cheers from the Jersey Shore.
I have the em1.3, its is a great camera
@@Chris-Brown- I have no doubt it is a great camera, just in the spot now if I work for Canon, how do I shoot anything but Canon.
Great video Peter. You mentioned one thing that truly is a lost art, anticipating the shot. You need to have good knowledge of the game to do that. Before all of these high tech digital cameras came to be, sports photographers captured great sports images with film, manual focus, and much lower frame rates. talking to many photographers today, it seems to many of them, that it is impossible to get those images without the technology. Skill seems a bit under rated these days ....and it shouldn't because it is still important.
Thanks Peter. I shoot a lot of American Football, often in poorly lit fields at night. Even F2.8 is often not fast enough.
So, there are two things I would like to see from OM:
1- A big brother to the 75mmF1.8 prime, say a 100mmF2 small lens that I could use in bad light situations or indoors. 200mm equivalent would be enough for most situations.
2- A Human Tracking AI that would find the body and focus on the head. In american football, the face detect does not work since the players are wearing helmets(as they ar in many other sports)
Have you tested the cars and motorcycles detection? It will detect the helmet. I think it is worth testing.
Nice.
I took the 40-150 2.8 to our Tennis tournament and the results are excellent tbh.
My camera is G9
Great tips Peter - and some good results. I haven't done footie for quite a few years now but still do Cricket most weeks in the summer and the same tips go with that game too - know the sport and that will lead you to a good position. My view when it comes to rating a good footie picture is to look for three elements: ball, faces and action. Thank you for posting.
Thank you.
This is a great video Peter! I would be very interested to see how the camera and lens combination works for indoor sports. Would be great if you could make a video about it.
Thanks. Most likely the lens is two dark for indoor sports. I would say that f2.8 is needed. Maybe I will give it a try.
@@ForsgardPeter If you have the 45mm/f1.8 you might find that an even better option for you. I shot both women's volleyball and basketball with it. I think you'll find even at f/2.8 the ISO will get bumped up over what you want indoors...
I have found that C-AF tracking is ok even on original version E-M1 in the case of cycling, which I photograph a lot. In sports like cyclocross or mountain bike racing where riders are often alone in the frame, the tracking works really well. I can half-press on the approaching rider and the tracking locks on well enough until I decide to take the shot. In crowded scenes, like a peloton in a road race or criterium, then there can be problems. In those cases, I tend to zoom into the rider I am interested in to block out others from the frame.
Great tips. I shoot games on occasions, as my sons play Gaelic football and hurling (hurling is played with a stick and is the fastest fieldsport in the world). Your focus technique, positioning and anticipation will improve my stuff a lot more. Ball in shot, definitely - thanks.
Great tips, Peter. However I am a bit surprised to hear people say to avoid the C-AF+TR mode even on the flagship OM-!!
I have found the AF-C better. The tracking was a bit random. It works ok if there are now other subjects in the frame.
Peter
I recently bought a Pentax 150-450 for my Pentax APS-C cameras I haven't used it enough to give you a review. Before that I was using a 55 -300 lens for wildlife photography.
Peter as simple as it seems your recommendation about shooting lower to the ground I NEVER thought of that. I think probably it's inconvenient but definitely will have a cool dynamic. some pro sports stadium photography areas are kind of lower to the ground I think too so the photographers might be standing in a "well" about 4 feet below the field surface.
Peter A lot of good ideas to think about !!
Peter! Thank you for doing this! I have been thinking of grabbing this lens! I do wish OM would create a "HUMAN SUBJECT" in the AI Subject Tracking. But I personally come from older Canon 1DX and 1D's so this style of shooting is how I still shoot today with my Olympus/OM cameras. Having a stool is a MUST have for sports photography! I have one of those folding Ikea stools that can change heights and I do love it a lot. Another Great video! Also, since you're are doing some sports, I think it would be FANTASTIC to capture some motorsports! Finland is one of the best places for motorsports! I DREAM of being able to shoot at KymiRing!
Thanks! Motorsports is something I have wanted to photograph but have not had a chance. Not sure about the future of Kymiring. It is bankrupt.
@@ForsgardPeter oh yea, I knew it was bankrupt. It was just always a dream if mine. But I do hope you do more different types of sports! I feel like the OM is most at home with those types of photography!
I have ~150 zoom lenses but always find them too short and so prefer the ~200. You can pull them back but they have that little bit more reach when you need it.
I find useful reach goes by up by times-two - 12, 25, 50, 100, 200, 400.
Both flavours have nice 200mm zooms.
I tend to use GX12-35, GX35-100, G45-200, PL100-400 (all of my zoom lenses are Lumix, they work on both flavours) and probably two cameras, G9 and an Ollie. Of course Olympus IS lenses will fit Lumix but their stabilisation is crippled, for example the Ollie 100-400 IS will only give you Lens-IS on the G9. The two companies seem to like shooting themselves in the foot when they should be using joined-up thinking to sell lenses to both flavours.
Great tips, Peter. Thanks a lot.
My pleasure!
Beutufull photos!Tank You!
Thanks.
Thanks for this Peter!! Do you have any advise on symphony orchestra in low light setting from the balcony or in the crowd in school auditoriums using MFT cameras or olympus/leica 100-400mm lenses? Thank you!!
Check out these two videos so that you have the right AF mode: ua-cam.com/video/b79JWTosDCs/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/users/shortsS3HaA5vtkS0
It's called football all over the world except for that weird place in north america
And Australia, over here football is another different game
@@Chris-Brown- it's like American football, just without gear. Right? Kind of combo between rugby and American football.
Surprisingly critical video. Many thanks for that Peter. Ofcourse elephant in the room is that it is very hard, or nearly impossible to properly separate object from the background with the setup u used. This is a very good lesson for everyone interested in sports or wildlife photography. Narrow field of view "long rech" is not the only important aspect. Your object should not only fill the frame and be sharp in it, but moast importantly it should look good in it. Play the maine role, be seperated from the bacground. Did that setup provided what is intneeded or not?
I think it was quite positive. The dof thing is real and for some quite critical. For me not so much.
Thanks Peter, this is a very good video.
Shooting sports is good practice for wildlife shooting.
Also, familiarity with your subject is more important than the latest gear. I think the reliance on technology is turning out less-skilled photographers.
If a photographer can't get a decent image without using burst then they are not very talented. Spray and pray isn't photography.
Festival chairs ftw! 😅 I use the exact same chair when going to photograph dragon flies and damsels 😊 but I guess you need to know a little bit about the teams, to get the better spot?
My chair has 2 cup holders 😊 1 for water and the other for my phone 😊
How do you like the lens so far? Have you been able to play with some optical illusions, on moon or sun? 😊
It is a great chair for photography. The drin holder is also a great holder for second camera.
How is the lens for video: image stabilisation? and for birds?
I don't think the 1080p video does the image quality justice.
I did not test video with this. It is a good idea to test it. I will do it now.
@@ForsgardPeter
Great!
- is the stabilisation good enough to track and focus?
Have you tried the teleconverters?
I'm considering an OM1 system, or a G9, or a Sony apcs(where is that A6700?), looking for a versatile light weight system, weatherproof and fast, because I don't want to hold up my partners.
Quick question Peter, My father and I have used Olympus lenses and camera for over 20 years, and I've been wondering, and I never could have a chance to test out some OM lenses because they were either rare or expensive at the time. Is there by any chance you could do a video about the OM Zuiko 1000mm f11 lens, and maybe shoot some shots of the moon or even a close shot of the surface because of the 2x crop factor for MFT. I know it's sharpness might be lackluster since it is an f11 lens, but I think it might be an interesting find if you put it on a tripod and put on manual priority for shutter speed and exposure. Thank you and good luck.
Just a caution. In the UK I was cautioned by a teacher for taking photos of kids rowing racing boats on a river!
Yes, I know that this was a bit on the grey area.
is your om 1 getting hot while using for photo?
also can you hear the battery "working" electric sound while turned on?
The sound is most likely the iBIS. No mine does not get that hot.
I shoot indoor volleyball. It took me a while to figure it all out.
What remote did you use, Peter? Great video and information!! I shoot soccer matches with my Em1 Mk ii and the 40-150mm F2.8. Very happy with the results.
I have the RM-WR-1. Here is more about it: ua-cam.com/video/koOPqSuaPNM/v-deo.html
I'm really hoping the generic tracking is improved along with adding human tracking so the the face doesn't have to be in view.
I agree that it would be an improvement.
Peter, am I correct in assuming you used the mechanical shutter for this shoot, as opposed to the electronic shutter? Which did you use?
I used both. I had silent shutter on some of the images.
@@ForsgardPeter Cool, thanks! Great job on those shots, by the way.
Thank you, Peter. I tried football on Saturday, using your settings. I did not achieve a very good hit rate. The face detect didn't show in the viewfinder, so I wonder if I have missed something? Also, yesterday, I was photographing a musician and face detect square showed up when I pressed the shutter half way down, but only for a couple of seconds - should it not show all the time I have the shutter pressed half way down? Maybe it's faulty, or maybe I have a setting missing.
You had the player inside the AF frame?
@@ForsgardPeter I thought so. However, the light was very harsh, which is never ideal for sport.
This Saturday, I am going to try again
That chart on page 89 of the manual confuses me; which is the best setting there? Thank you for coming back to me, Peter.
Hi Peter
So I am a beginner
What setting did u use manual? Aperture ?
Did I miss this ?
I have the Olympus E-M1mark 11
Used that lenses and got a lot of noise in my shots.
So angry but was told to use aperture setting but my shutter speed kept on changing
I have written down your settings but now need to actually practice
Thanks
I used the lens full open all the time. at 100mm the aperture was F5.0 and and at 400mm it was F6.3. If the focal length was something between the aperture was between those numbers. ISO was 800. That way I was able to get the fastest possible shutter speed to freeze the motion. It quite sunny so i did not have problem with too slow shutter speeds.
There are no right settings. It all depends on the amount of light and what is the look you want to have. Here is some more info about the shutter and shutter speed: ua-cam.com/video/h5hwK8QAVtw/v-deo.html
For my taste, the photos have too much depth of field and therefore a nervous background. For football i use the Olympus 40-150mm 2.8 mostly at 150mm and only with aperture 2.8. But even here too much depth of field sometimes bothers me, which is why i sometimes use my Canon RP with EF 200mm 2.8 to free up the motif better. By the way, i am very satisfied with the AF tracking of my Oly E-M5lll.
I can see what you mean. I think the DOF is quite ok in most of the images. The only thing about it was the look of it in some images.
Hi Peter, how do you focus when you are using the remote behind the goal?
Manual focus is the best way in my opinion.
Habe leider keine neue OM-1, nur eine EM1X, die Telelinsen bis 400mm habe ich alle wieder verkauft(mit Verlust) aber die taugen alle nichts und gerade bei Sport und Tiere, Wasser oder Luft, nicht dafür geeignet. Ob es jetzt mit der neuen Kamera besser ist ? kann ich eben nicht beurteilen, werde sie mir auch nicht kaufen, viel zu teuer. Habe nun eine Sony RX10iv und die ist um Welten besser, adieu Olympus.
I have used the 100-400mm with E-M1 Mark III too and nothing wrong with it. What was your concern and problems with it?
Washed windows today. I can see the bird feeder from kitchen's window again.
IS off? The PL100-400 on the Lumix G9 simply loves the Dual2 stabilisation. Sadly the M.Zuiko 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS does not support Sync-IS but should support "Olympus Dual IS" which is both independently, not synchronised (which happens with Lumix OIS lenses on Ollie backs e.g. G45-200 on E-M5ii). With Dual2 running on G9 I can swing the PL100-400 about like a bat, where you appear to be holding the Ollie like someone shooting field target rifle seated, (yes it is a very stable position).
Can you or anyone else explain why "Olympus Dual IS" (pat.pend 2014) is so badly documented, to non-existent?
I've found - switch IS on at the lens (if switch), in menu turn "Use Lens IS" Off. Listen to stabiliser noises in lens and body. If you set "Use Lens IS" On, it will only use the Lens-OIS.
Panny backs don't do this at all, if you switch IS off at the lens, everything is off. Dual-IS/Dual2 is only supported by a range of Lumix lenses, fortunately most of them. Olympus IS lenses are not supported (so much for shared standards). With older non Dual compatible Lumix lenses, they will only use their Lens-OIS.
I have no idea why Dual IS is badly documented.
On the em1- mkII the OIS switch on the 100-400 Pan/Leica disables the cameras IBIS. So to shoot birds or sports I set IBIS to S-IS 2 to remove vertical shake and turn the OIS off. If the action requires a shutter speed below 1/1250 I use the OIS. It's like anything - just experiment and find what works for you.
@@tdunster2011 To use the "Olympus Dual IS" do as I described above. Olympus will let you use either/or, Panasonic will not. Extra-long lenses generally benefit from using Lens-IS rather than IBIS. My E-M5ii will use "Olympus Dual IS", which is better than Lens-OIS or IBIS alone but not a patch on the G9s Dual2 where the view becomes frozen which aids framing and AF and metering, and it can be waved around like an ultra-wide.
What I don't get and do not understand is why Olympus do not provide any instructions on how to use their "Olympus Dual IS" (which is not the Sync-IS).
Nice! Pesis next time?
Pesis could be the next one.
If anyone needs a photography project, pesis players' Wikipedia articles are missing decent in-game portraits😃
Pro Capture is a bit like the Lumix Pre-Burst - it takes like two dozen photos, takes its own sweet time processing them, and then stuffs your card. All a bit waste of milk ;)
If they're going to add stuff like this it needs a much bigger faster processor and a lot more memory so it doesn't sit there with dumb insolence chewing the cud and buffering.
Bird shot, machine gun, good.
Ooo, another bird, no it is busy, missed it.
Ooo, another birdie, no it is still chuntering, drat.
Stares at camera ...
There's two main issues with pre-burst on the G9. The first, like you mention, is that even though the G9 technically has dual UHS-II slots they run at just slightly faster than half the speed of the single UHS-II slot on the E-Mii and a bit over 40% of the speed of the two slots on the OM-1 so it takes a long time to clear the buffer. The second issue is that when you switch to pre-burst mode, or SH1, it stops using the stills C-AF system and switches over to the video C-AF system which performs much worse. ProCapture, especially on the OM-1, is much better implemented than Pre-Burst on the G9.
👌👍👍🙏
👋🙋
What is soccer?? 😁😅
p̾r̾o̾m̾o̾s̾m̾ 🎶
It's called football lol
We invented it so we say what it's called 🇬🇧😁😁🇬🇧
Football.
Football, it's called football from the people who invented the game. Let's not pander to the North American colonies who have barely mastered the language
Very amateurish pictures. Looks like something a soccer mom will take lol
Sorry to hear that you did like the images. It would be nice hear a more in-depth feedback, since you must know a lot about photographing. Now the feedback was a bit general and does not tell much.
Pretty immature and rude comment. Looks like something a spoiled 10 yr. old would post.