Two Stroke Outboard Shaking - easy carburetor linkage sync check and adjustment
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- -To adjust the linkage just turn the screws that are on the links, you will see as it falls apart when you loosen one.
Update 4/8/2021 - I also want to stress the importance of setting the carb floats correctly.
This video shows a simple way to check your outboard carburetor links and make sure the air intake valves are opening at the same time and to full open position. This small misalignment can cause the engine to shake quite a bit especially at slow speed / idle.
Troubleshoot Outboard carburetor links and check air intake valves to make sure they are opening at the same time and to full open position during WOT.
Throttle plate sync.
Unfortunately without showing how to adjust them, it wasn't super helpful.
There is a little screw on both of those throttle selectors that adjusts them.
@@cenkaetayahahha 3 years later you respond you asshole lol
Thanks for the knowledge…
I think a lot of ppl scroll/click and they don’t give anyone the recognition they deserve for the knowledge they gained.
Thank you sir. 🙏
Knowing what needs to be done and seeing how it’s done are completely different. Real teachers show.
so how do you adjust them?
why didnt you show that?
Great tips! Gonna have to check this on my old 150 2 Stroke Johnson
Great information; how do I adjust?
Thanks man,was stumped with my outboard shaking,this really helps
Also make sure all the throttle butterfly plates are closed in idle position because the linkage between the carbs may be keeping one from closing completely if adjusted too tight. Also one of your spark plugs may not be firing, like a bad plug wire could be shorting.
Thank you bro, you gave me an idea where to start....
What’s the point of telling someone what needs to be done without explaining how to do it.
“Hope this Helps” ….. Um not really
Yes and there is an actual gap adjustment in the manual. It's not supposed to be tight against that rocker.
I have an evinrude 150xp, and mine constantly dies on me after running a fairly decent 32mph for a good distance, but when I slow down to idle or dock, it wants to die repeatedly and I was thinking because of the low idle, but I'm gonna check these parts out, too... thanks
Their called throttle plates. Good video
gonna used this tip now thanks hopefully it helps with my ervindure 50hp
Sweet, ty. Now how do it fix it? 🤣😋
Bend the linkage slightly right in the middle.
A marine mechanic will for $600 lol
at 2:10..mine dont start off horizontal ( 3, 9 o clock
) they are slightly off. and my lower carb pin doesn't open vertically when wide open. how do these get adjusted.
How do you adjust it? I need to check mine. It’s shaking somewhat and idling too low
It did have that ever important how the f do you adjust it when it’s wrong factor...
But the 2 cylinders generally shake a bit at idle but should smoothly accelerate to wot. And sing pretty
Well done! Loved it! Super super helpful
i got an aha moment now. thanks.!!.. will be a long night before i can go and look at my engine . :-P
Where is the adjustment made ?? How do you make the pins vertical .. Mine on the top carb is way off .. Both carbs were removed and cleaned ..
Hey Mate it looks like you don't have a VRO on the outboard, if so did you remove it and is it something you would recommend doing ?
You didn't show how to adjust it?
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing.
Tohatsu outboard does not get gasoline into the cylinders. The injector, ecu, spark plugs are intact. When I pour gasoline into the pistons, it works a little. When I press the starter, oily gasoline comes out of the exhaust. Could the high pressure pump have malfunctioned? How can I test it? Greetings from Istanbul, Turkey..
Hi, nice video. I recently purchased a 1989 Johnson 70 for my boat. It ran very nicely at 10 knots on its first voyage for an hour or so, but as soon as I entered an unrestricted speed area and attempted some acceleration the motor shook from side to side fairly roughly. Low speed was always okay. Do you think it could be a sync or dirty carb issue, perhaps a blocked higher speed jet that only presents issues under acceleration?
I would definitely take apart the carb and clean the orifices as they are the most likely issue. Use one of the twisty tie's that come with various packaging and remove the plastic from it. Makes a perfect tiny little metal poking stick.
Sounds like it may have gone into S.L.O.W mode. Often caused by over heating or faulty temperature sensor. But, can also be caused by a fault in the power pack. SLOW will not let the motor rev up. Therefore the motor will shake because cylinders are cutting out and not firing.
Came across your video and will look into this!
Hope you can help diagnose this issue.
1986 Nissan 70HP
Both carbs had new kits put in them last year.
I believe I am having a fuel or air problem and not getting the full power of both carbs.
It is also possible the carbs are not properly 'synched'.
When I spray a little carb cleaner in the top carb the engine rpm raises dramatically maybe another 1000 or so.
When I spray the same shot in the bottom carb the engine rpm raises but maybe only half rpm of the top carb.
What would cause this discrepancy?
Would I be correct in thinking I have an issue with the bottom carb?
It appears to be more air related as opposed to fuel related.
Hi Quick question my 2 stroke engine slow idle down until go off only on gear neutral idle it's fine any idea 😢 thanks
Thanks for the knowledge
Great information now explain how to fix it !
Super helpful bud thanks
How do you adjust the pins to make sure there vertical? Have the same motor having some issues missing and mine are way past vertical
Hello. I have the same engine and I’m getting idle problems and cutting out when engaging forward. Out of curiosity why is your cam follower so high from its resting middle mark. Is this done for idle adjustment. I’m just curious. Ps keep the videos coming I need them haha.
He needs to do a link and sync, it's easy to do. You're correct, the cam needs to rest between the two arrows......
I have the same 1986 40hp but with vro. Have you ever got into the cylinders on yours? I have 0 compression on the top and 150 below. I hope I got it soon enough that it is just rings. Any pointers?
Problem with the old motors is... hopefully you can get those parts off without anything breaking.
Thanks for this. You helped me out with that last video regarding the shift rod connector going onto the clutch dog. Motor and gears are working great. However, could you walk me through adjusting the carburetor as you talk about in this video. I have a 2001 50ho Johnson and it shakes, doesn't start unless I put it in idle and stalls out after it's been running a while. I have cleaned the carbs and replaced with a carb kit. I don't see any leaks and i had the fuel pump rebuilt 2 seasons ago. I'm thinking I just need some carb adjustments and sync. Please help brother..........you know what you're doing and create very helpful videos.
Same motor, same issue
Im a rook also, but I have learned from some wise folks that carb mixture adjustments may differ slightly from motor to motor. However, here is the standard instruction and should not be too far off. With some ears you should be able to find her sweet spot: Turn carb adjustments knobs to full close, then turn back about two times, then with the motor running in gear turn forward again ever so gently (like 1/8 of a turn) until you hear a small sneeze, then finally you turn back again about a quarter turn and somewhere there should be the nice spot. Motor will run if its close, but to get that nice 2stroke sound and power you need to find the sweet spot. Do the same for all carb and best when in gear and running.
Hi. Thanks for the video. My '89 40hp looks very similar to yours. Mine is struggling to idle when in the water. I made some of the adjustments you recommended. My manual doesn't discuss carburetor mixture adjustments. Does yours recommend how far to turn the screws out? Do you know where yours are set? Thanks.
Its hard to say exactly what is going on without looking at it. It could just be dirty carbs, or you may need to increase the idle stop forward a little to increase the timing. However you should only really do this if you have some way to measure the rpm / timing. If you adjust the timing stop just a little forward you should notice the engines rpm increase with ever few turns. The idle timing stop is the little bracket that controls how far the entire mechanism pulls back when its in idle position. Moving it forward just a little will increase the rpms. Not 100% sure how to explain it without showing. I would watch a few videos on timing, but also make sure your carbs are extra clean.
The carb screws are fairly flexible, I would play with them a little and see how the engine performs. I believe mine are either 2.5 or 3.5 turns out from the fully in - seated position. If the engine is having a hard time idling still check the other comment I below.
Thanks for the response. It's very possible it's dirty carbs. I've also adjusted the idle screw but that has not made a difference. I'll look into the idle stop. Thanks again.
@@jeffkepeck613 Make sure you take apart the carbs and clean out the orfices. Its really easy and quick to do. If you arent sure what is going on with them, just take them apart. Because if they are clogged, no matter what you do it wont change the performance and the orfice holes are really tiny and they can get clogged incredibly easily.
Do you have a video on how to adjust the idle on this motor? I have the same one and want to increase the idle speed
Dito on showing how to sync the 2 fly's to work when running wide open if there a bit off bud...Mhahaa
I have a Yamaha 25hp 2-stroke that runs fantastic on all stages, starts easy, idle's great and picks up out of the water like a bullet. The only complaint I have is that the entire throttle zone between idle and the "starting icon" (sorry don't know the term for it) is completely useless, the entire zone when i twist the throttle is the same idle speed and then it picks up. Looking at my roller there is a sizeable gap, about a centimeter gap at idle so that explains the dead zone until i get to the "starting icon" where the roller then touches the throttle. My question to you is how should I go about fixing this? I can loosen the plate on the throttle and reposition it closer to have a smaller gap, but will this mean that when I throttle to the "starting icon" that it'll be in even higher throttle? I don't want that it surely can't be good for it and likely will do nothing more than flood when I go to start it. Thanks i hope that was somewhat clear... lol
Basically if I do this the position at start will likely change, what should the starting position even look like with relation to how hard the roller is touching the throttle?
What I would do is first check if at idle / start mode does the throttle at all. If it doesn't, it means you are only physically using the throttle to accelerate and that's it.
So for example, now if idle, and everything works fine. You want to now put the engine into full speed forward (engine off) and see if all the carbs are 90 degrees (fully open).
doesn't
1 more thing to note is the controller cable play can affect how "well or smoothly" the cable and controller actually move. For example if you just slightly put the controller in forward half way and go back to the cable on the engine side, push it in a bit and make sure its tight, this could solve the issue. Essentially when you move it forward you dont want slack, you want a slight movement to push it forward, not have a situation where you are moving the controller but the cable is basically doing nothing until its in final position due to tension. Its just a push / pull action and the moment you move it forward you want the controller to push, no delay. Not sure if that makes sense.
@@cenkaetaya thanks so much for the reply I'll give these a shot later today!
Having an issue with johnson 48 spl only running 1/4 speed at full throttle any ideas
Hey! You can help me a lot! I have the exact same engine: the problem I have is that it’s hard to start it and it dies often in neutral such as forward/backwards low speed. And it shakes as hell in low speed. Are u sure that this problem could be solved by cleaning the carbs?
And where did u find a manual?
@@melkerforslund2130 I purchased one online a long time ago. If it is dying at low speed the timing may be set too low also check the idle valve screws.
I am having the same exact issue with my motor as stated above. Very hard to start but dies in low speed. Runs great WOT. However I did just notice I am missing the plastic sleeve that sits between the arrows on the cam roller. I’m wonder if this is my issue. 🤷🏻♂️
Yes, 100% POSITIVELY "sure that this problem could be solved by cleaning the carbs"! Facepalm. Your such a tool!
Holes, reed valves. The proper terminology and not showing the actual procedure to remedy. This is PRICELESS!! Oh, I mean worthless.
Thanks man
Hello- I need help doing the linkage adjusting/synchronization on my 1997 Johnson 15hp tiller model 2strk. The manual says to remove pin retaining throttle lever connector. However, you cannot access this without removing the lower power head cowling, which I attempted to do but there is one screw I cannot get to as it is almost underneath the power head by the latch mechanism and no way to access. Was wondering if anyone has ever been successful performing this synchro procedure and if so, how did you successfully remove that last screw (located inside the cowling, towards the back of the powerhead, right by the latch mechanism)? Thanks in advance!
the roller for the timing advance (the big slotted plastic piece to the left of the carbs below the flywheel) is off quite a bit! the 2 arrows point inwards needs to be lined up with the roller, same thing for the carb cam roller. you are off a bit there as well. you also need to check the advance link rod and make sure its the correct length, which it isn't because the roller doesn't line up with the arrows. need to check the factory service manual for specs.
Noticed that as well. Way off!
This motor was not really calibrated I was just using it to demonstrate but thanks for any additional info!
@@cenkaetaya no worries. top short spark linkage exactly 5.3 cm long!
Nice video..I have a 75 hp tracker force motor. It is on my suntracker bass buggy 18. It won’t go faster than 9.5 mph. It burns through a 5 gallon tank in no time at all. What are your thoughts on this?
I'd start with the carbs as its quick / easy.
I have the same exact issue. It used to run nicely, but would have trouble turning back on or it would die after going WOT, and then to neutral. So I rebuilt the carbs and now it won't go over 8mph. Did you ever get this solved? What was your issue? My guess is it's the air mixture screw
@@michaelbriseno869 yes I rebuilt carb, replaced fuel lines, spark plugs and it ran better but still wasn’t running they way I knew it could. One day I noticed the butterfly wasn’t opening up more than 1/3 of the way. I adjusted the throttle linkage and that was it it went from 9.5 mph to a little over 20mph and runs great now. Hope yours ends up being a simple adjustment too. Check out the video of me getting caught on the lake during a severe thunderstorm. If I hadn’t fixed the throttle issue we’d never made it through that storm!!!! ua-cam.com/video/l7Qz3M1Z-LI/v-deo.html
Could this cause the engine to cut off while running wide open?
Dying after WOT is probably a fuel supply issue. I had this for a while, it would run WOT for a minute and then cut out. The fuel hoses had a leak and even though the carb filled up with fuel and ran at idle or medium speed. Once the engine went WOT the pump was simply not able to refill the carb bowl fast enough. This is why it worked for 1-2 minutes because once the bowl drained, the engine died. If you turn it on again and let it run at idle, the bowl would refill and you could once again run at WOT for a minute or so. Took some time to figure out.
Good info. Thanks
Can you explain to us how to adjust them please
My manual says roller supposed to be dead center
Good evning I was wondering if u had any idea what the factory setting is for the jet just above the linkage u almost toughed it at like 15 seconds in thank u for any help mine is a 1991 Johnson 40 can't find much on them on here
Those are the low speed jets, I would check a manual, roughly they are somewhere about 7-8 turns (half turns) so around 3-4 turns. Note these are for idle speed, they wont affect engine at full speed.
@@cenkaetaya thank you very much I do not have a manual I will search more on line to c if I can find one I assume I could make it to lean with those screws and don't wanna do that
How do you adjust them
how do you adjust???
You can use the screw on the linkage itself. However, if you adjust this fully, and it is not 100% vertical in full speed you will need to look further down the linkage setup. Motors are different but generally you need to turn the rod what pushes the throttle forward and get it to align slightly better with the carburetor.
@cenkaetaya
have you read ALL the comments? 😢
make a video that shows people how to adjust it.
How do you calibrate it??
Those are NOT "reed valves"
Reed valves are behind the carbs
How do you adjust the idle
The idle screw, some do not have it and it is in a fixed position.
@@cenkaetaya Thanks
👍
Reed valves? You sure about that?
I have 2 1997 evinrude 90hp outboards. I can audibly tell that my starboard side motor is running at a higher RPM than my port motor at WOT By the gauges its 800-1000 rpm less. do you have any suggestions as far as what to adjust to bring my port motor up to match?
Turn the idle screw out less on the motor to bring down rpm on idle
Any chance you could send me that manual? I have the exact same motor
what kind of motor is it? check manualslib.com
Your motor is the same as mine. Runs great at full throttle but has a very slow idle and dies when I put it in reverse. How do I increase the idle speed to prevent this?
I’m having a similar issue, this is an idler screw but I’m not 100% how to adjust it
Idle scew in lean out rich
If it is a two stroke 40-50-55-60 horse Johnson/Evinrude 2-cylinder looper, it is going to shake from side to side at idle. That is simply the nature of the beast. Not my favorite Johnson/Evinrude motor for that very reason. Learn to live with it, or get a 3-cylinder 50-60-70-75. They are amongst the finest 2-stroke motors made.
Can fully agree with this! The Yamaha 40-60 HP 2 cyl also love shaking their heads
Hi there, I have the same engine a 40hp Johnson and having issues with it, it revs out perfectly in neutral however once you engage the forward gear it won’t rev out, and is stuck at a low speed, it revs out perfect in reverse and neutral but not the forward gear. Any idea what this may be? The carbs accelerator cable is working perfectly and is opening the carbs as it should.
well i guess part of the title was accurate... now i gotta watch another goofy video to learn how to adjust...
Podrá ser en castellano
Please show motor shaking next time.
Saludo como esta
mine is not compleetly vertical, still like, 30 degree left
Cool. Now what ?
I need to take off my carbs to rebuild them, do you just pop off that link bar? Is there a trick to it? Will I mess anything up
Eventually once I'm done w my carbs then have to watch this and see. I have an 87 Johnson 150 b6
The gap between the roller and the throttle is for timing advance before the throttle opens
Great video!