Transfer Case Operation
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Weber State University (WSU) - Automotive Technology Department - Transmission Lab. The operation and power flow of this part-time 4WD transfer case are very similar to other transfer cases manufactured by New Process, New Venture Gear, Borg-Warner, Magna Powertrain, etc. This transfer case is the Toyota JF1A Transfer Case. The JF1A is built by Aisin, a Toyota-owned company. This transfer case is typically used in 2007 through 2013 Toyota Tundra trucks. The 2014 Tundra uses a Borg-Warner transfer case.
This video helps satisfy the requirements of the following NATEF Tasks:
3.F.5 - 4WD/AWD - Diagnose noise, vibration, and unusual steering
concerns; determine necessary action - Priority Level 3
3.F.6. " Diagnose, test, adjust, and replace electrical/electronic components of four-wheel-drive systems.", a priority 3 task.
3.F.1. "Inspect, adjust, and repair shifting controls (mechanical, electrical, and vacuum), bushings, mounts, levers, and brackets." a priority 3 task.
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This video was created and edited by John D. Kelly at WSU. For a full biography, see www.weber.edu/a...
Visit my other youtube channel / vibratesoftware to see the amazing NVH app for vibration diagnosis!
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sublime video! as an electronics engineer and a 4wd owner I love understanding my own gear. this makes the transfer case clear as if it was made out of glass. clear clear clear. thank you sir
Thank you professor. My 06 Nissan Frontier has 4WD (with 4 Low Range) and it's Shift-on-the-Fly up to about 65 MPH. When using 4 Wheel High, I shift it to that range at much lower than 65 and also at Zero MPH. It saves on wear and tear. Low Range requires engine idling, man trans in neutral, clutch pedal pushed all the way down, 4 Wheel High currently selected and vehicle speed at Zero MPH.
2 mph would be easier on your drivetrain than zero and everything is moving slow enough to easily engrave but not so slow that you run the risk of teeth bringing together as when stopped
Amazing video. Finally I know why the wheels are slipping when I turn in 4hi mode.
Such a helpful video. Fascinating engineering.
Awesome video I passed my a3 ase today and this video helped with my understanding of transfer cases.
warren hastings Thank you, I am glad you passed!
Thank you soooo much for your videos. They have helped me understand the problem with my vehicles. Thank you!!!
another excellent production of how a drive-train operates. you really know your stuff :)
Thank you!
Thanks. This is the information needed. Especially the difference between the range fork and mode fork helped me in an ASE question.
Muchas gracias ingeniero por poner sustitulos.felicidades por sus videos
love watching your videos, very knowledgeable and informative
Excellent video. Thank you so much.
Thank you!
I have an NP207 that jumps from 4 low. Have adjusted linkage several times and no luck. With engine pressure it will stay in low, but let off of the gas and it jumps out. 4 high and 2 wheel work fine. Everyone I've talked to only say its the linkage.
Hi, it sounds like you have a bent or worn range fork. To test if it is bent, put it in neutral with the engine running and put the transmission in gear. If it grinds, you have a bent range fork. If it does not grind, you have a worn range fork or bad bearing. Best wishes!
Thank you. I'm not much on transfer cases. Never even taken one apart So I have been trying to find an idea of what I'm looking for when I do.
@@WeberAuto
009660577161913
really good explanation on transfer case.
Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. Is there a way to engage 2wd low on a model with lever actuator? So you would have the extra torque but not binding?
Thank you! I depends upon the transfer case, No if it has internal linkage, Yes if it has external linkage
Thank you for your kind respond to my car. Much appreciated
Thank you!
thank you for this...
Very good class 👍 thank you Sir
Great video, Thank you for labeling the gears/forks/components. Such a good explanation of the inner workings. I'm in the process of replacing my actuator motor and would love to test the transfer case prior to re-installing. Would you be willing to share your wiring diagram/instructions so I can simulate 4WD-Hi and 4WD-LO?
Terminals 1 and 2 of each motor's electrical connector are the power and ground wires. Just connect power momentarily to them because there is nothing to stop the motor from running too long and binding up the gears. Reverse the polarity to runs the motor the other way. Best wishes.
I have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. The shift from 2HI to 4HI with the manual transfer case has always been excessively stiff. You really gotta give it some good elbow grease to get it to shift with the lever. Eventually I started having issues getting it to shift at all no matter how hard I pulled on the shifter. The dealer looked at it and replaced some internal parts in the transfer case and when I picked up the vehicle I would get a massive BANG when shifting from 2HI to 4HI. They took the case apart again and discovered when they previously reassembled it they put the synchronizer in backwards. Since reassembling it for the second time it is working but the shifter is still really stiff to engage. I've been told everything from "it's normal" to "it should break in and become smooth" to "it's not normal". Any feedback you can provide is appreciated. Thanks!
Excellent video, very explanatory.
+Jeremy Gardner Thank you!
The question/answer regarding flat tow capability for the VF2AM t-case remains unclear. It is my understanding that the T-case is an oil-bath lubricated system and does not have an internal oil pump configuration. Putting the T-case in neutral detent disengages the transmission coupling with the T-case so in the event of a flat tow the rear driveshaft will turn the internal components of the T-case and provide the oiling by means of oilbath. Correct me if I am wrong. I realize the owners manual specifies not to flat tow but this makes no sense to me. The T-case is a closed system and does not share fluid with the transmission. Comments welcomed.
Very nice to see
Thank you
Very instructional. Thanks
Here is a hypothetical, offroad situation, using a np271xfer case, Say you did not lock your front hubs, and did not shift the 4x4 shift forks into 4 wheel drive, but you did actuate the range forks, effectively 2 wheel low. Now lets say you are moving at 20mph, put the autotrans into neutral, the shift from low to high, then put the trans into drive again, and then roll into the throttle.
You would still get gear clash as even though that transfer case is synchronized it is only in regards to the front and rear wheel speeds and not the input and output speeds. This enables shift on the fly four wheel drive high range. However you are correct in your assumption of two wheel drive low range this is often the result and reason hardcore off-roaders will "twin stick" a transfer case. Without your front hubs locked in it would still be two wheel drive low range just with the front drive shaft rotating.
A+ sir. Very informative and well explained. Thank you!!
Thank you!
Well cam
18 dec 2023 4:54 am est ( utc - 5 ) : thanks , just-now i finish seeing this movie .
Hello Sir, your videos are truly awesome, I am not even closed to being a mechanic and loved to watch all of them. I do some of my own work on my trucks. I have a 2006 Tundra that's stuck in 4WD-HI, reading i learned that usually the actuator is the culprit due to contamination getting inside of it (dirt and water). I decided to take a look inside the actuator and so I removed the black cover off it, the one where the limit switches are on, upon removal I noticed lots of corrosion on it so I decided to purchase a new one and put it on. Here is my actual question: Since my truck it's stuck in 4WD-HI, how do I know or how do I make sure the NEW actuator it's on 4WD-HI mode so that when I connect it back on the computer will recognize the mode? lastly I have another question: what mode do new actuators usually come on, is there a way to test it to find out the actual mode the new actuator it's on? thanks so much for reading this.
The computer will recognize the new actuator position and try to move it to the correct position. Make sure the actuator fork slides into the shift sleeve groove or it will not work correctly. Best wishes
@WeberAuto: thanks so much for your response Sir. it's appreciated. I will later post here to confirm I got the machine to working order again. Once more, thanks!
Another interesting vídeo, thanks
Thanks for this..
Thank you!
awesome video. thanks for sharing!
Very nice and informative video, could you make one about how the mitsubishi super select transfer case works?
Its one of the most interesting ones among the 4WD systems in my opinion
Hi there wonderful video I do you not understand much about engines or anything or transfer boxes
I have a sprinter 515 long wheelbase 4x4 it has high and low ratio and four-wheel-drive
and for some unknown reason
it went into low will drive 4x4 on its own and I called Mercedes out and they told me to get a new turning angle sensor switch
And also I bought a new motor for the transfer box
I have put these on and I am still in the same situation
I am stuck in low wheel drive in 4x4
Any advice would be more than welcome
Best wishes and thank you for making a video above. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi can I ask another question please
Can I just do this manually
With out a motor. As my sprinter reads no faults codes but it still is not working to transfer to high wheel 4x4
I am stuck in 4wheel drive low.
I've reset the Mercedes computer system
And no faults.
I'm thinking to take the motor off
turn the spine shaft manually while Jacking up the wheels off the ground until I hear a click and it moves along hopefully finding four-wheel-drive
Best wishes
And thank you in advance for any replies
Awesome, Prof. John!! My first glimpse into a 4WD tx case.
My wife drives a BMW X1 with X-Drive AWD. I'm wondering how different the internals of such a transfer case on the BMW X-Drive would be.....I'll check to see if you created an AWD video. Thanks again, Professor!!
Thanks for watching
very much informative
Nice video
Thank you!
Could you explain transmission windup in detail please?
I didn't notice a planetary gear set in my new process 205 gear driven transfer case but since it has low range I must have just overlooked it putting 32 spline hardened input and output shafts in it. This post is completely kidding in reference to a comment within the first two minutes that stated if a transfer case has low range it has a planetary gear set
Only one question so, car without 4WD selection, normally drive as RWD. Is it okay?
thank you!
Thank you!
If the gear in park position it is not possible to select 4w or 2w like to understand this situation. Thanks for sharing this informative video
Great video! I am home diagnosing the current problem within my the transfer case where my 2005 Silverado will shift between 2wd and 4wd high fine but won't engage into 4wd low. I am a mechanical engineer have never really gone down the youtube rabbit hole on transfer cases until now but I have found them very interesting. Your video is the best one I have found to date.
To my problem of not engaging into 4wd low, is that more than likely an encoder shift motor problem or mechanical problem within the planetary gears? When trying to engage it into low, it makes a very audible clunk but fails then follows up with another clunk and fails again...ultimately reverting back to 4wd high. I cant tell if it is mechanical binding issue or if maybe some sort of position sensor is thinking it is out of line or something and reverting back to 4wd high when it could engage fine. I am changing the fluids this weekend to see if the old fluid's color or contaminants tell me something.
Thank you! You are correct, it could be either an encoder issue or a mechanical problem. The most common problem is the encoder on those models. There is no synchronizer for the range shift into 4WD low. Make sure the transmission is in neutral with your foot off of the brake pedal as you try to shift. Best wishes!
why pedal off the brake?? it also applys every time we switched to 4 wheel drive??,,,,thanks!
I like about this study
Thanks for watching
I've always wondered what factors or components of the transfer case determine whether it's allowed or not to switch 4WD on/off on the fly? And why can't I drive in 4WD (part-time) mode at high speed down a perfectly straight road?
👍 good
thanks...
Hello, awesome video, well done!! So my problem is my 1992 Toyota Hilux has the front driveshaft spinning in 2wd. If I jack up the rear end and put the truck on blocks and put the tranny in any gear in 2wd the front drive shaft spins together with the rear driveshaft BUT it is not locked in. I can grab the front driveshaft and with some effort I can stop it from spinning while the rear end continues to drive. Is this normal to have this much drag between the front chain drive gear and the main output shaft when not engaged to cause the chain and front output shaft to spin like this? I noticed in the video everytime you went to spin the input shaft you held the chain in some way to stop it from spinning in 2wd.
Great video
Thank you!
I have a 2015 Nissan Frontier 6 speed manual 4x4 Nismo King Cab, this informational video really help me out on how to use my 4wd capability's is there any more relevant and repair preventative information you could offer other people like me with this kind of truck ?
Anthony Rodriguez Hi, not really. Just stick with the recommend service schedule in the Owner's Manual and you should be fine. Also, don't drive in 4WD on dry pavement, it can damage the transfer case.
This is a great informational video. I have a Tundra and am working through a transfer case problem that has been difficult for me to figure out. I replaced the 4WD actuator because I believe it was bad, but now the truck won't go into gear at all. I believe I have finally determined that when I reassembled the transfer case I did not properly time the High and Low Clutch Sleeve (as it is called in this video) with the planetary gear system. Is there anyway you can provide some insight on how that part of the assembly, including the Brass synchro that is inside of that sleeve, are supposed to be timed when reassembled? When you open up the case, the planetary gear system stays attached to the housing and does not come out with the shaft assembly. Thank you!!
Great video so far. A question that occurs, is "how far up the drive train, from the front end, is rotating, when driving with 4WD disengaged?"
Thank you! Nothing should be rotating in front of the transfer case if the front differential actuator is released and the transfer case is in 2WD. Best wishes!
I'm in need of some help, as no local shops have any idea of the source of vibration.I have a 2005 Nissan Xterra with 217k miles that has had a vibration/shimmy at speeds over 50mph. It shakes the seats and floorboard. It also occurs when driving on an uneven (tar and chip) roads at speeds around 30 and up. This all seemed to happen after I hit a large pothole at 70mph, or when I replaced the old leaf springs with new ones. I am starting to lean towards the transfer case or transmission for a few reasons. I removed the front driveshaft due to it having some play in the joints, drove it around, and found that it helped greatly with the vibration around the 50-55mph range. Here is a list of what I have done/shops have told me to do:-New tires, two rims replaced due to being out of round, roadforce balanced, countless alignments, rear driveshaft replaced, front driveshaft replaced, transmission flushed, new rotors/pads, replaced stuck caliper, wheel bearings all feel tight, new motor mounts, new tie rods, checked cv axles.Transmission shop said the transmission is good, but something still makes it shake when near the top of first gear into second, along with the highway speed vibration.Any help you can offer? Read more Show less
Yes, see my other UA-cam channel ua-cam.com/users/vibratesoftware for vibration diagnostic information and software. See my website as well www.vibratesoftware.com Best wishes
Great video! Very informative. About 8 months ago I had to replace my 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser transfer case with a used 2001 Lexus LX470 transfer case. It was working fine but in the last two months, on two separate occasions, my vehicle in-advertently shifted into 4w-low gear while turning, left, slowly into a parking spot. The gear shift lever however was still in 4w-High position. Each time I backed out and drove about 200 ft. and the vehicle shifted back in to normal operating 4w-High gear.
Any suggestions as to what may be causing this issue. The Techs who installed the Transfer Case have since gone through it and have not been able to duplicate the issue and therefore not corrected what may be causing this. Your input would be very much appreciated.
1.
If car battery is dead without starting the engine,
is it possible to shift the transfer case in Neutral for flaw tow
like Jeep Wrangler (manual shift lever instead of shifting by motor) ?
2.
If transfer case in Neutral position for flat tow, does it disconnect with transmission ?
should we shift
automatic transmission in Neutral or PARK position for flat tow ?
manual transmission in Neutral ?
Just read the news Jeep Wrangle blown the engine with transfer case in low range.
How does the transfer case on a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser work.
Thank you for a great video, could you tell me which terminal of the motor that brings the fork up or down or how do you jump it to make it either go up or down . thank you
Fantastic video! In comments you stated that on a 2002 Tacoma there was an oil pump that would not function when flat towing. I can not seem to find any information on that pump. Were you referring to a transmission oil pump?
What would create a clunk noise when the transmission is down shifting automatically coming to a stop sign. My jeep place is replacing the transfer case, but not sure if that would be what is making the clunk and buck noise on the down shift.
Hi, I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4x4. The transfer case has a high, neutral and low manual shift. Can it be flat towed behind a motorhome in neutral position. Do you have any advise on this. Thanks Chris
No, It has an oil pump that is not functional in neutral. If it has a manual transmission, neutral is good for towing. Best wishes.
Thanks WeberAuto, great video.
Hello great video! I drive a number of 4x4s and find it frustrating that it isn't a option to change into 2wd low for slow maneuvering a trailer for example into position on high grip surface, instead high strain has to be put on the clutch especially when backing up uphill. Can you advise as to why this isn't an option?
Thank you, I do not know why.
I believe that's why they make twin stick transfer cases for more hardcore applications. You can independently select high/low and 2wd/4wd in any combination.
What would cause play in 4wd hi and low causing a clunk on decel and accel? Even if u joints are are good with no play
How does electric shift transfer case with automatic 4wd work (e.g. 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4 with z71 off road package.) it also allows you to manually select 4wd with the buttons on the dash.
+ForzaMotorsportManiac1984 It has a computer controlled clutch pack that limits the torque to the front axle in Auto Mode by slipping the clutch. The clutch is locked solid in 4WD modes.
Liked very much this video. Is this system similar to Mercedes G class?
Thank you for a great video. At the end of the video, you talk about full time 4WD system. Could you please post the link for the video!
Thank you! I do not have one yet
Sir, is AWD similar to full time 4WD, except in that AWD does not have 4WD low?
Yes, in most cases. There are axceptions
Thank you..please upload the video about full time 4WD as soon as you can..
Any way a transfer case could cause it to not work in reverse. I have noise coming from the transfer case that sounds like marbles inside. Reverse does not work at all. Forward it slips.
I have a mystery for you.
What (cause of noise) stops, as soon as (pressing the button), engaging 4WD-H, starting only from (65m/h or greater, in 2WD position). Then decelerating only increases the noise.
My guess, after watching your video, is: One of the planetary gears, (floating freely), rotates, making the noise. Then decelerating increases the noise because of the (difference in speed) between the 2 parts making the noise. I imagine, the noise stops when some pressure is applied to the planetary gear, via moving the shaft down into 4WD-H. Perhaps, this can only occur when there is no fluid in the transfer-case. I will have to check my fluid in the transfer-case.
What are your thoughts and explanation?
Thank you, for the video!
Typically the front axle differential side gears are rotating in 2WD and stop rotating in 4WD. If the front differential side gears are worn out (too much backlash) they would do that. Best wishes.
Thank you.
I noticed 2 drops of liquid on the ground, when I park, aligned with the front differential. We all know well, loss of fluid would cause wear.
I had difficulty coming up with the (description of the sound). The closest comparison, I would say, is: the sound a (shipping conveyor, type; cylindrical-wheel) makes, the smooth ringing sound of (metal rollers spinning freely), after a delivery package had sped across them. In this case, the sound would be when the side differential gears are loosing oil viscosity at 65-miles/hour (from heat), friction, lack of differential fluid and wear. The sound (is not present) when the (temperature is low) or in 4WD-H. The sound will occur at any speed (only when hot enough). Thank you, #WeberAuto for information about the (side differential gears). This 1998 Chevy Blazer (LS), 2-door, 4WD-Automatic is identical to the 1998 GMC-Jimmy. My particular one, (heats up too quickly). So, fluid leak seal, change fluid and new differential gears. Dose this sound right? WeberAuto's thoughts are (very appreciated)! Thank you.
Yes, that is correct. Best wishes
Thank you.
The leek appears to spatter out the driver's side of the front differential, at the union between the (wheel axle and differential). Pictures:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B25Wg-WR1aoBNVl0ekRrT1o3MGc?usp=sharing
(Some sort of seal?) May be called, "front differential seal axle junction?"
What are your thoughts, #WeberAuto ?
Thank you.
That is quite a leak! The CV shaft splines into the side gear of the differential gear set. It must worn badly to cause the noise in 2WD and the leak. The leak left the differential gears without enough oil for lubrication, the gears wear out along with the bushings that keep the CV shaft centered. The whole axle assembly needs to be replaced. Installing a new seal will not fix this. This is a very common issue with these axles. Best wishes!
Thanks!
Quick question, what happens if you pull out the actuator without opening up the transfer case?
Great Video, I am doing a transfer case swap because the actuator is faulty. It was cheaper to buy a slightly used transfer case than to just buy the actuator itself. Here’s my question, is there anything I should be cautious about or keep an eye out for when doing the swap?
Hi, thank you! No, it is an easy swap. Make sure the electrical connectors on the actuator are not crushed. Salvage yard parts sometimes have damaged plastic external parts. Best wishes!
WeberAuto great! That’s good to know, one more question. My Tundra currently has the 4-low and vsc off lights flashing. With swapping the transfer case out will the trucks computer be able to self correct that issue? Or is their a reset procedure I need to go through? Thanks again for the fast responses!
I do not know. If it was caused by the bad actuator, it will probably clear itself. It may take three trips (road tests with key cycles) to go away.
WeberAuto Hopefully. Thanks again!
Does a transfer case motor actuate anything while simply driving in AWD/4WDHigh mode? Is it involved with regular shifting on sophisticated AWD systems? Is it possible for a bad sensor to cause improper actuation that could make the vehicle shake?
I have a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK Laredo with Quadradrive II. The vehicle is shuddering quite badly at erratic times...different speeds and rpm's - nothing regular, I can put the engine in neutral when it's happening but it keeps shuddering...so not the engine. It's not regular so unlikely to be worn mechanical components. There's a recall on this vehicle to do with the transfer case and Final Drive Control Module, usually affected vehicles are not able to go into 4WDLo and when they try they get "Service 4WD System" with an error code indicating the FDCM. The recall(N23) and the recall on the recall(P73) are software updates that attempt to fix/work around a hardware problem which is a void on a circuit card tracing for a sensor inside the transfer case motor(chrysler obfuscates and deflects about the truth of this of course). From what I understand the sensor is essentially a potentiometer and by changing the software in the FDCM Chrysler tried to accommodate/cover up the out of whack parameters of the faulty sensor so they didn't have to replace 250 million dollars worth of transfer case motors.
What I'm wondering is if the faulty sensor could cause a shudder for normal driving in the full time 4WD mode. Incidentally I am able to shift into 4WDLo and back without a problem or a code.
Sorry for the long post...I'm desperate and would really appreciate any insight that someone might have.
The actuator controls the application pressure of a set of clutch disks inside the transfer case. The clutch disks are supposed to be released while driving on a dry solid road surface and apply with variable force when traction is lost to the rear wheels. When applied, the front wheels are locked to the rear wheels. It does not stay applied for very long in AWD mode. They stay applied in 4WD mode. There are several things that cause a shudder; 1 different diameters of tires front verses rear. 2. The wrong fluid in the transfer case. 3. Speed sensor problems. 4. An actuator position sensor problem. 5. programing of the transfer case controller. 6.Worn clutch disks. 7. There may be more, but those are the most common. Best wishes!
Thank you very much for the considered response. Yesterday I removed the actuator motor and checked the position sensor with an ohm meter, I did not detect a problem. My tires are of the same diameter so I guess my next move will be to check fluids....where would the speed sensor be? I also just received the lasted software update for the FDCM, so I should be good there...I guess there's no way to check clutch discs so that will be the last resort. I also find myself wondering about the torque converter. Many thanks
I'm thinking about adding the MP1522 transfer case to my stock 2WD Jeep Liberty. Now, the MP1522 is electronically controlled. I did some research and it says "Shifting in the transfer case occurs when a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) voltage is supplied to the shift motor by the Drivetrain Control Module". Obviously, since my car is stock 2WD, I'll have to do this manually, with the stock switch and probably a momentary push button to apply voltage. My question is, what kind of voltage did you apply to your TC to move the forks. Was it regular DC? Since I won't need feedback like position sensors etc, can I get away with plain DC to engage the different modes? Did you have to use a PWM voltage?
Yes, DC from a 12V battery. It should work fine for manually activation, but you must remove the voltage as soon as the shift is completed (the job of the position sensors) or you can damage the motor and your switches. Best wishes.
Thanks alot sir .Sir how can I know solenoid of gear with out all data scan tool .witch one solenoid gear witch one for torque cluch and which one for line pressure .please I have not scaner and other tools.
Awesome video , I do have a question . What would cause a clunk when shifting into and out of either 4h and 4l .?
Thank you! There is a shift fork that has to move a sleeve to obtain High or Low range. That could be the clunk.
WeberAuto would u consider that a natural reaction shifting or a problem.? In other words nothing's broken ??
Yes, that is the most likely situation.
WeberAuto thank you , awesome video .
How does a transfer case with a lever that moves in a straight line for all ranges work? (e.g. 1998 Dodge Ram 4x4)
+ForzaMotorsportManiac1984 One shifter moves an internal detent lever with both the range and mode forks connected to it. Many vehicles are arranged that way. Thanks for watching!
+WeberAuto thank you
Is there major difference between chain drive and gear drive transfer case ?
Gear drive : Mercedes-Benz G Class
Yes, gear drive have several additional gears and extra weight.
Can a transfer case fail cause no movement (just grinds in drive or rev )in any gear ? My awd cayenne does move with front diff locked in low gear .(rolls in park also) . Any ideas ?? CV axle or transfer case ??? Thank you ...
Yes it can
How can I diagnose if the actuator is bad without going to a dealer. My 2008 will not engage.
What vehicle do you have? Does it make any noises when you try to go to 4WD?
This is exatly happeny with my santafee Model 2012 4WD...its hard to turn at cornes
Thanks for your feedback
Hi from Alberta, Can someone please helpppppp, I have a 2009 Escalade ext awd, I have to sun gears seems like only 1 will fit at a time is there a trick to get the suns on.?
What would be the reason a 4x4 gets stuck in 4wd? It'll go in 4x4 just fine, just won't go back to 2wd... 97 f150.
is it the same opration for an auto 4x4 system or is it much diffrent can i get an answer asap
+Brian Stout Hi, it is not the same. There are a few different kinds of auto 4x4 systems out there. Some use a center differential transfer case (See my video on that) and some use a clutch pack that is automatically engaged in place of the brass synchronizer for the mode shift into 4WD that is used in this transfer case.
Hi, Great video! I have a question for you: my Hyundai terracan (borg warner tc, part time 4wd, electrically controlled as showman in the video) has a big problem. When driving it goes in neutral but the gear is still in (it's a manual). Switching from 2h to 4h sometimes puts the traction back in, but low grinding noises come from the tc. Switchin to 4 low solves the problem and this unwanted neutral doesen't happen. The problem is getting worse and worse, and now i can Keep the care running only around 2000rpm!! Watching your video i can understqnd that for some reason the tc goes in its own neutral when under load, and this doesnt happen in 4 low. It started doing it while driving downhill, but now it happens always. Any idea? Thanks a lot!!
That sounds bad. It sounds like something is coming loose inside, probably the shift fork. Best wishes
I have a 2007 Silverado 1500 and sometimes when placed on reverse it snaps out of gear (loud metal on metal bang like noise) and then the gears start grinding and it loses reverse. I then have to place it on N and back on R in order to engage it again. It never does it twice in a row or in any other gear. I'm not sure what to do since the truck only has 80k miles. Any thoughts on possible cause?
+Adrian G Hi, it sounds like an internal problem, There are two clutch packs involved in obtaining reverse. One of them connects to a part called a "Lo Roller Clutch" that might cause this, although it is not directly needed for reverse. Either way, it sounds like an internal problem. Best wishes and thanks for watching.
First off thanks for the reply. One last question, I've been looking around town and found two used transfer cases both with over 130k miles for about $600 new ones run about $1200 from my local auto parts I am wondering if it's worth rebuilding if so what parts should be order and from what supplier? I've done several searches for rebuild kits but the web so inundated with a ton of info, it gets overwhelming trying to make the correct decision. I feel this case is still strong enough since I recently took a trip to and from Fl (a total of 3,500 miles in 4 days) with absolutely no problems with forward gears. But to no surprise as soon as I tried to reverse at the hotel it snapped out of gear. If I may add, I put about 300 miles a week on the truck therefore I'm a little hesitant about the use ones.
What happens if the front drive shaft is removed from the transfer case while the car is still in park and not neutral?
Nothing so long as the rear drive shaft is still in place.
hi i have a 2000 hilux manual transmission. im curious to know, does anything still spin inside the transfer case, when the transfer case is in neutral. thanks
+scott vekar Yes, many things can still spin, but there is no connection between the input shaft and the output shaft in neutral.
+WeberAuto thanks for the quick reply. can I remove the transfer case with out pulling the gearbox out with it?
I have terios j100. And i take off the chain off transfer case. And make my car from 4wd to 2wd. Do u think it will be problem to my gearbox?
No problem as long as there is no AWD
WeberAuto thanks for reply. Another question. Is that transfer case give oil to gearbox? Or oil transfer case just cycling on transfer case.
Just transfer case
i have an 09 tacoma trd off road and im thinking about trying to wire in a switch to bypass the front axle automatic differential disconnect "ADD" so i can use 2wd low for moving my camping trailer around. easier on the clutch.
would you have any advice on this?
There are two wires that control the ADD actuator motor. If you interrupt one of those with a switch, it would prevent the ADD from engaging. Assuming you have an electric controlled transfer case, shifting the transfer case into 2WD Low is just a matter of running the motor for the range fork without engaging the mode fork motor first. There are two wires for range fork motor. WARNING: you must be very careful to run the range motor only long enough to complete the range shift. If you leave power connected to the wires any longer than, the motor can get bound up and damage the gears, motor, or limit switches. Best wishes! That sounds like something I would do.
+WeberAuto
thanks! my transfer case is electric shift and only has one shift shaft so its not possible to do a twin stick shifter like i had on my early beonco with a dana 20 t-case. i just hope if i interrupt the add shift; the limit switches and computer don't prevent the t-case from shifting. one way to find out!
i have some backlash in the output shaft. seems more than normal. what could cause that. any ideas are welcome. thanks
Worn chain
if your in 2w dr does the chain in the t case still turn because of inertia
J Nanney No, the chain is usually stopped unless the front axle is engaged all of the time (like an All-wheel drive vehicle). Thanks for watching!
the trans was rebuilt 1 month ago still clunks 2ed to 3rd when in 4 high no clunk
Can you make the Jeep NV247 transfer case ?
Want to know how the Gerotor and Progressive Coupler work.
In Jeep system :
Selec-Trac : 4 Full-Time
Quadra-Trac II & Quadra-Drive : 4 All-Time
What's the difference between the 4 Full-Time & 4 All-Time ?
I would like to, but getting my hands on those components is difficult. Most of those systems use a center differential transfer case with a clutch pack to control how much torque is applied to the front and rear axles. In 4 Full-time, the clutch pack is locked up and allows no speed difference between the front and rear driveshafts. 4 All-Time allows the front and rear driveshafts to spin at different speeds while cornering, but uses the clutch pack to control the difference if it becomes too high (as when traction is lost) Thanks for your feedback!
In Selec Trac :
2WD
4 Part-Time
4 Full-Time
N
4 Lo (locked front and rear driveshafts)
**If 4 Full-Time locked the front and rear driveshafts**
Why did it still have 4 Part-Time option ?
I search on google, it said 4 Full-Time can use on all road surfaces.
Google can be wrong
Please get a lavalier microphone. Your videos are great but the sound quality could be better.
Can any one tell me if works, instaling a transfer in to an f250 that came out of an expedition? Thanks
Thank you for this video! I have a problem with my 2008 tundra 4X4. After making a tight 180 degree turn in low range fwd on a paved boat ramp (won't ever do that again), I cannot go into fwd low range. fwd high seems to work. Is there anything I can try to unjam whatever is jammed without a $5000 repair bill?
Probably high low shift fork issues
@@jasonstinson1767
Thanks Jason. Am I correct in assuming there is no fix without disassembling the transfer case?
The transfer case will have to be split but you will not have to disassemble any of the input or output shafts stackup. Also if it is a electronic shift the mechanism should be first examined. If possible manually check your range position with the actuator off or a known good actuator.
Whilst I understand a part time 4WD system use 2WD for most of is time, anyone knows why the presenter says "There's no 2wd low". To me it's quite possible and should be as readily available as 4wd Hi and Low. And it's also reasonable to use it for some sort of climbing?
The planetary gear allows for additional gear but in 4WD operation in most cars, you have 4WDHI and on some cars, you have 4WDLOW. The 2WD operation LOW/HIGH is controlled by your transmission.
So where is Neutral? Rhetorical.
+Delve Spectrum Thanks for watching.
+Delve Spectrum Neutral a.k.a 2x4 is when the No. 1 fork is up.
I thought the rang fork dials back into neutral and the mode fork is fully engaged. "4x4" In other words the transfercase is now disengaged from the transmission
sorry, but you should try watching the video(s) you make. And then I believe you will see your problem(s) and work to create a better more succinct presentation. could not watch.
Anyone else here because you read the ase a3 books and still failed the damn test?
Best wishes next time