DFHS Puch Magnum Ep.4 - ZA50 Engine Bottom End Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Rebuild of the bottom end of the ZA50 engine for my Puch Magnum project. Here is a list of the parts I used in this episode:
Bearings:
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Seals:
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Atomic ZA50 Shift Dampers (Pucks)
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These videos are so relaxing. What a great way to start the weekend. Thanks David!
Heya Frank! Someday I’m gonna come to Amsterdam to visit my cousin and make a day trip out to see your gorgeous bikes 😜
Let me know when your planning to this. You are most welcome! ;)
nice job on that ZA50 I've always wanted a Puch moped with that engine, going back to the other subject we spoke about earlier the reason I couldn't finetune the moby is due to an air leak from the crank seal on the variator side, time to get a seal and gasket kit. see you in your next video. stay well.
Damn air leaks. Bane of a mopeders existence.
Hey really cool vid. I’m looking at trying to replace the bearings on my za50. I just know know exactly what bearings to get. Also I hear that you need to adjust the shimming with the new bearings. Do you know anything about that? I could use all the help i can get. Links or anything would be great. Thanks!
for the life of me, i cant figure out why you didnt flip your second gear, especially knowing you were putting a kit on it
Ahh, perfect way to start a Friday! Aaaand, I got a new Honda moped to work on myself this weekend!
Nuthin better than having a new moped to wrench on 🤓
How common is it to see mopeds on the road where you live?
Not common at all. Plenty of scooters, but besides myself and my brother, I have yet to see a vintage moped on the road. I keep hoping...
Fastenal is a national company. There is one close to where i live here in Cali. But they are kinda expensive so i only buy from them if i cant get the part anywhere else.
Stock points ignition is where it's at! Very reliable, and will perform to the fullest potential your metrakit will allow. I think you should run the points first, and see if you want to change later. If you really MUST have a cdi, the Powerdynamo is indeed a great ignition.....but the tomos a35 CDI is also fantastic! About $150 give or take, so about half of the $300 setup you were lookin at!
here:
www.treatland.tv/tomos-A3-A35-and-A55-complete-cdi-plus-many-frien-p/tomos-cdi-rehab.htm
www.treatland.tv/tomos-A3-A35-and-A55-complete-OEM-cdi-plus-many-f-p/tomos-cdi-rehab-performance.htm
Pretty much bolt on^^^, except i think you may have to time it by hand without a key. But you have to do that anyway with the HPI and most other aftermarket ignitions anyway. (I would strongly advise against going with the HPI for this setup, UNLESS you also got the 300 gram weight to go with it)
Thanks Brandon. Too late tho. Spoiler alert, I bought the cheapo $75 ZA50 CDI from treats. Haven’t put it in yet, but that’s cheap enough that if I don’t like it, I’ll go back to the points ignition. I did buy new Bosch points as well, just in case. Thanks for the info...
I'm really glad you rebuilt the ZA50, I've got one to rebuild soon and it's always good to have you show me how to do it right before I go ahead and mess it up anyway! ZAs barely exist over here so I'm gonna have a hard time getting parts if I fluff it up...
I finally got her dialed in. It’s a finicky motor. Did NOT like the Bing carb on that kit, so I had to swap that out for a better one. Also, timing is crazy touchy. I can add 5-6 mph with VERY slight tweaks. Today is my birthday, so the wife and kids gave me the whole day at my workshop. I just got back from a 30 mile ride and I took the GoPro. So now I just gotta edit the video and this one is all done. Already planning out the next one 😜
Hey David, since you have rebuilt the Puch ZA50 engine perhaps you can provide some insight to my problem: started my 78 maxi ll and after about 5 mins. smoke began to come from beneath the engine and oil puddle on the floor, upon examining the crankcase did not find the leak source, no oil coming from crank seal in Magneto area, suspect crankcase not venting thus pressure build up, appreciate any suggestions
Heya Bill. As always, it’s real hard to diagnose these things remotely. Is it oil or ATF? If actual oil, then it’s something with your carb or gas line, since that’s the only place oil can come in. If oil is coming out of your case, then your mix is FAR too rich. If instead it is ATF, then the answer is simple- one of your gaskets or seals is leaking. Maybe it’s just the washer around the drain plug? That’s a super simple fix, so check it first. But since it is smoking, I’d bet it’s higher up.
@@DavidFixesHisShit Thank you David, the puddle is actually oil , I did have to open the idle mixture since the engine was running to lean, maybe you may have I.D'd the problem, I'll check that and clean the carb again, The engine compression is just over 142 psi
@@DavidFixesHisShit Hi David, a little update on the 78 Puch maxi 2 sport, it did have ATF fluid and not oil( approx. 900ml) drained using the port screw about 7/8 in. from bottom of case clutch side and just a trace from the drain plug. On top the clutch housing there was what appeared to be a white plug remnant when touched the remainder fell into the case could not have been much left of it, I imagine that would be the fill port, cannot find a manual on this thing any help is appreciated.
Hey David great video. I just got a magnum. With that first gear clutch and the lock washer, should it have a little give/wiggle in and out? Or is it pretty tight? Thanks!
I’m trying to think back and I don’t think I got it too tight. I’m gonna get back in there in the next month or two and flip the clutch to see if I can get it to change later. I’ll take a look and report back.
@@DavidFixesHisShit hey thanks for the reponse! Actually got it figured out this weekend, had a something out of order that was jamming it up. She's up and running, just have to tinker a bit with the throttle as it's on full bore without touching it.
How well did this engine run after this rebuild? I'm getting ready to throw a new crank in my za50, complete rebuild, and have read a lot about problems with shimming and making sure your end float is good and just all about measurements. You seem to just throw this back together the way it came apart.
I agree, I am in the UK, and people shim when rebuilding.
Can you please talk on this Topic Dave
I no nothing about shimming and you didn't shim when you rebuilt
CONFUSED
Hey Nate. I heard the horror stories as well with the shimming and the end float. My plan was to build the engine, and then move the crank and see if I had any play. If I did, I would just take the engine apart and shim it to take that play out. Or if it was too tight, I would use a wider gasket to make up for it. As it turns out, when I got the engine back together, it was perfect. I mean I didn't put a micrometer on it or anything, but it spun freely and didn't move side to side. That's good enough for me, so I ran with it. It is, after all, only a moped! If it breaks, you fix it. Thats the most fun part. Ive put about 1500 miles on that engine now, and it still spins like a top!
ha ha, you found those shims after all, i really hope that your end float is still ok after that new gasket. great job! good choice with the atomic dampeners, i had over 1500 miles on my assembly before i sold it. no issues, no degradation.
These engines are aching for more power, soo overbuilt. excited to see what kit you chose! i do see a decomp hole in it tho. get out the jbweld or thread that thingy for a plug if its too close to the edge of ur gasket. passage goes right to the exhaust port. can cause problems.
i have had great luck with both the k-star and the airsal. not sure if thats what you have there, the casting on the fins look better than the ones i had. maybe just the camera.ha
Figured out about the decomp hole. Unfortunately, it was after the engine was back on the bike and I had to remove it. I film these videos in advance, so by the time you are watching it, I’m already two or three episodes ahead. Ended up threading it and using jb weld. Gotta be thorough 🤓
Gotcha, imma dum dum. lol
Hey great videos! Does this za50 have oil injector? About to rebuild my ZA but heard oil injected za's use different bearings
Mine didn't have the injector. Instead, it came with a mixing cup :-). Not sure about the bearings. I looked in my service manual and it doesn't say anything about them being different...
@@DavidFixesHisShit
Hey david,
Were did you found that service manual? I am gonna rebuild a za50, but i can't find anything about the specs
martysgarage.info/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/puchservicemanuals.pdf
@@DavidFixesHisShit thank you, am now revising a za50 myself. these videos help well only it is difficult to find good parts and specifications here in the netherlands
Is there a reason you don't freeze your bearings? Appreciate the video!
I do sometimes. I put them in the beer cooler or freeze them with canned air.
To what temperature do you heat the motor casings to make them fit into the bearings?
350F
How many mopeds do you have now? I have seen you work on about 3 or four? Do you keep them or sell them?
That’s a hard question as I have a bunch of pieces and parts I could make into a few mopeds.. but I’ll say 9. 6 operational that I ride, 1 that is fully put together but hasn’t started in 40 years, and two complete mopeds that I have disassembled, but have all the parts for. I don’t sell them. I fall in love with them 😍
I always see a lot of mopeds for sale and I am tempted to buy them to restore them, that is the part I like the most next to riding them.But I don't have the space to store them.As far as you having 9 of them that is a lot WOW! well I hope I can see you restoring the ones that you haven't restored in future videos.Cheers
Great vid as always David. Love everything you do.
Always informal and entertaining .
Thanks Steve. I appreciate that!
@@DavidFixesHisShit informative that was supposed to say David..lol.
I have an 1980 Indian and it's missing the motor does anyone know what motor will fit other than the original motor? One that does not require modification or extensive modification. I do have another Indian that is complete and i have been in the process of restoration.
Thank you for any info that you can provide.
I dunno Rob. I would guess that you could put any motor you want on there. Of course, it depends on how much fabrication you want to do. I’d recommend either a Tomos engine or and E50, as they are the most common (with parts readily available).
I read that there is a Honda engine that they used as the prototype for the Indian engine but the Honda engine is very hard to come by.I really would not like to do a lot of fabrication. I guess I will have to keep my eyes open for an original Indian engine.My other Indian right now is in a basket I have most of the parts restored except the frame since it will need to be stripped down and painted also the gas tank needs derusting and I need to drain the old oil from the motor and change it. So it is an ongoing project hopefully I can get it running this year. Your restorations keep me motivated to not loose faith in mine.Cheers
@@DavidFixesHisShit I am going to look into that E50 and see how much work it will take to adapt it to my Indian.
Cheers
Hey Rob. I have a Honda PF50, and I remember reading that some Indians used the same engine. You probably won’t be able to find a PF50 engine, but I think the mounting points and basic shape and utility of that engine is the exact same as the QA50 mini bike that was sold here in the states in the mid-70s. You can find those engines sometimes, and (if you are so inclined) you can always buy a Chinese knockoff brand new for a couple hundred bucks. Good luck!
@@DavidFixesHisShit Hi David. Yes i had read that the Indian motor was a knock of the Honda PF50 and that they are hard to come by. I will do some research and see if i can find one of those QA50 that you mentioned.
Thank you for the tip.
By the way, when is the next video?
Cheers
Dave!! I asked the question a while back on another video, and got no response...How do you set the timing on a tomos engine?? I have heard and read there is suppose to be a mark on the stator that lines up with, or in between 2 lines on the engine case. But the stator coil I got from treatland www.treatland.tv/original-tomos-A55-OEM-cdi-stator-pickup-p/oem-tomos-cdi-stator-243100.htm doesn't have a mark on it anywhere...???
Heya Quentin. You bought the stator for an A55. Is that the engine you have? If I remember correctly, you can’t adjust timing on the late model Tomos engines. They didn’t want you messing it up. If you have an A35, don’t worry, you can still set the timing, but your going to need a timing light to do it. If you don’t have one, I think you can borrow one from an auto parts store for free. Park your moped next to your car so you can use its 12V. Not sure if you’ve seen this before, but it’s everything you ever wanted to know about Tomos timing. www.myronsmopeds.com/category/service/new-tomos-electrical/new-tomos-ignition/
@@DavidFixesHisShit Yeah my bike's a 2010 sprint a55. By the way Dave love your video's you remind me of my Father! You also have taught me a lot about mopeds!! :-) Thanks for the link too!!
youll figure it out! as a suggestion though, the a55 cdi has a rev limiter that cuts out the power at a certain point...research a better cdi box. aftermarket(and even stock on the newer tomos's) have a bad rep for failing within a few hundred miles.
@@aaronblair9583 Yeah I think I got it all figured out. Thanks again for the help everybody!!! :-)
@@DavidFixesHisShit Got the EVIL 2010 Sprint running again (ready to chuck it in the garbage lmfaorofllol), but the headlight is dim, horn doesn't work, and kill switch doesn't work EITHER!!!! Now when I turn the kill switch to ground the horn works and headlight brightens, but the kill switch still doesn't work!?!?!?! Any suggestions? I'd prefer not pull the plug boot every time I shut off the engine :-)