Really interesting. I have a similar looking hub - only they say it's USB 3.0 and it does have an expensive looking detachable cable to connect it to the computer; Bougth it from Aliexpress for 4.46$ in 2018, has no branding, however upon disassembly I saw that mine actually has a crystal inside that resonates at 25K, a VIA chip marked VL812-Q7A together with a lot of resistors and capacitors, a 10mh inductor coil, has smd led's with resistors for each. So basically when you buy such a thing you can never know what's inside
I have the 7-port version, which says the board model on it is HUB-66H. I'd like to to try to upgrade this thing to its best configuration adding the missing capacitors and the ceramic component (or the better version you mentioned), along with a soldered power supply.
If your ever doing a usb hub tear down review again. Would be great to see how smooth the power is. Especially when pc turned off. I had one from Dick Smiths years ago. Murdered a few big expensive external hdd. Took a while to figure out what was going on. So lost about 7TB of data. Turned out that if I turned computer off, like I do most nights at bedtime. The hub would toggle power to the usb devices. At roughly 1hz. Even managed to kill a powered hdd eventually. A regular unpowered WD pocket drive will last almost exactly 18 month under this torture every night for 8-10 hours. Powered seagate drive lasted about twice as long. Got a sub from me. Cheers.
thats interesting you didnt have turned on motherboard option: energize usb ports? , if not, even cpu ports are giving that constant voltage to usb conected devices
there's a 7 port version too, same ropey design, in case anyone needs switched USB power with more ports (engineer your own power though, or you'll get 500mA max (in theory - haha) per port when you supply it with 5V external power (and, for completeness, only aboout 50mA per port with no external power, iirc, from the upstream port)
I actually got my hands on that 7 port version. Problem is, I'm not getting device detection when plugged into a pc, yet I get led indication when switching on/off. I'm trying to "upgrade" it's internals by supplying better quality components from donor devices and also fill in the unused pin holes.
I have a Type C 4 in 1 USB hub with RJ45. There are totally 8 colours wird connected to the circuit board and all disconnected now. May I learn from you the postioning of all the wires for soldering the proper wire back to the proper position? Black, Green White, Red, Light Blue, Purple, Pink, Orange. Thanks and hope someone would help.
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I got that little crapper ,it’s alright unfortunately it’s the only thing i got right now to run my interface between the guitar and iPad to live stream I do have a question how many volts are you running into it.? Thanks
You could, using the DC jack, but I would buy a better USB hub to start with, then add external power to that. Many USB hubs have an input for external power.
5 Volts, the standard voltage for USB. Just be careful as it is not isolated from the 5V from your PC, so you may have issued back feeding the voltage into your computer.
Was curious about that. Have same model and noticed it doesn't "pass thru" fast charging ability if just connecting to a higher amperage USB charger source. Also seems to steal power from connected device(s) for the light(s) if disconnected from PC/USB Charger. So been on the hunt for a small enough DC connector (Probably just easier to hardwire in a connection) and "proper" power supply to "upgrade" the device to a "powered" hub... But don't want to kill any PC and/or devices so may need to rethink the $3 I spent on this hub...
So can I use this if I plug it into my laptop will it work? I bought a usb hub thinking it would charge some of my devices but it doesn’t and I thought if I plug dc power into the circle port it would give it more power to charge my devices. Is this true or will I be wasting money
I wouldn't recommend buying this one in the video, it's complete trash. But yeah, if you were to connect a 5V power supply to it, it will power your devices. Just make sure and triple check that the polarity and voltage is correct.
Got the 7 ports version from Aliexpress for AUD$6.00 shipped. A more expensive 8 in1 metal casing died after it overheated ( was using a usb adapter though - might be a factor ).
The way the housing is snapped together is called Snap-Fit. It saves the cost of screws and time to tighten the screws.
Really interesting. I have a similar looking hub - only they say it's USB 3.0 and it does have an expensive looking detachable cable to connect it to the computer; Bougth it from Aliexpress for 4.46$ in 2018, has no branding, however upon disassembly I saw that mine actually has a crystal inside that resonates at 25K, a VIA chip marked VL812-Q7A together with a lot of resistors and capacitors, a 10mh inductor coil, has smd led's with resistors for each. So basically when you buy such a thing you can never know what's inside
I have a similar hub like this. but the 7 port version
i love how the printing says it's USB 2.0 while the transfer speeds show that its USB 1
It's a USB 2.0 to 1.1 hub. Older versions of Windows will warn you when you connect a USB 2.0 device to one of these.
@@Flopster101 mm Windows XP..
Kinda knew that later when i transferred my files from my Netbook Tablet to my phone
I have the 7-port version, which says the board model on it is HUB-66H. I'd like to to try to upgrade this thing to its best configuration adding the missing capacitors and the ceramic component (or the better version you mentioned), along with a soldered power supply.
I would like to know what materials will be required for this. Just tell me which capacitors are needed.
That 6MHz resonator is interesting... USB operates at 12MHz, so they must be doubling the frequency somehow. Maybe in that blob chip?
If your ever doing a usb hub tear down review again. Would be great to see how smooth the power is. Especially when pc turned off. I had one from Dick Smiths years ago. Murdered a few big expensive external hdd. Took a while to figure out what was going on. So lost about 7TB of data. Turned out that if I turned computer off, like I do most nights at bedtime. The hub would toggle power to the usb devices. At roughly 1hz. Even managed to kill a powered hdd eventually. A regular unpowered WD pocket drive will last almost exactly 18 month under this torture every night for 8-10 hours. Powered seagate drive lasted about twice as long.
Got a sub from me. Cheers.
thats interesting you didnt have turned on motherboard option: energize usb ports? , if not, even cpu ports are giving that constant voltage to usb conected devices
there's a 7 port version too, same ropey design, in case anyone needs switched USB power with more ports (engineer your own power though, or you'll get 500mA max (in theory - haha) per port when you supply it with 5V external power (and, for completeness, only aboout 50mA per port with no external power, iirc, from the upstream port)
I actually got my hands on that 7 port version. Problem is, I'm not getting device detection when plugged into a pc, yet I get led indication when switching on/off. I'm trying to "upgrade" it's internals by supplying better quality components from donor devices and also fill in the unused pin holes.
Thanks really helpful video just what I was looking for
I have a Type C 4 in 1 USB hub with RJ45. There are totally 8 colours wird connected to the circuit board and all disconnected now. May I learn from you the postioning of all the wires for soldering the proper wire back to the proper position? Black, Green White, Red, Light Blue, Purple, Pink, Orange. Thanks and hope someone would help.
I've got one of these and it works great
Excellent Video! Forgive me for chiming in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you ever tried - Riddleagan Crazy Sports Remedy (should be on google have a look)? It is a smashing exclusive guide for generating high betting wins and higher returns without the headache. Ive heard some amazing things about it and my close friend Aubrey at very last got excellent success with it.
sorry but no thanks
it says usb device not recognized whenever i plug in that
I have this same one and it's just not working properly
It worked for about a week at most
Seems like those will kill your PC if you plug in power in the DC jack!
(No diode to prevent backfeeding voltages to mainboard)
The DC jack has an internal switch.
Once you insert an external power supply it will disconnect the supply from the PC.
How much voltages does it support.?
I've done backfeeding on a lot laptops and it certainly doesn't kill them at all, I don't know about desktops though
I have this with electric static if connect to router(aluminium casing ). How i can grounding/fix this?
The blob chip i believe is a GL3520, It is true USB 3.0 with maxim output current at 5v/1.5A. But the 1.5A is shared between ports.
Lanturn 1.5 A for all ports? That’s a bit lame.
So what exactly does that blob chip thingy do?
I got that little crapper ,it’s alright unfortunately it’s the only thing i got right now to run my interface between the guitar and iPad to live stream I do have a question how many volts are you running into it.? Thanks
can we add additional power with a 5v or 12v adapter into the usb port?
You could, using the DC jack, but I would buy a better USB hub to start with, then add external power to that.
Many USB hubs have an input for external power.
You skipped over the missing capacitors.
hello, the external source that the device needs, how much voltage and ampere it has to be
Carbon traces as a resistor. Now that's something I've never seen in all my 15 years of electronics hobbyist tinkering.
Yeah, scraping the bottom of the barrel for cost cutting there... :D
I have a very similar hub i don't know why it stoped and no more detectable by computer ?
I m thinking of the hub main circuit HS8836
I have the same usb hub as yours may I ask how much voltage does it need in the DC jack.
5 Volts, the standard voltage for USB.
Just be careful as it is not isolated from the 5V from your PC, so you may have issued back feeding the voltage into your computer.
Was curious about that. Have same model and noticed it doesn't "pass thru" fast charging ability if just connecting to a higher amperage USB charger source. Also seems to steal power from connected device(s) for the light(s) if disconnected from PC/USB Charger.
So been on the hunt for a small enough DC connector (Probably just easier to hardwire in a connection) and "proper" power supply to "upgrade" the device to a "powered" hub... But don't want to kill any PC and/or devices so may need to rethink the $3 I spent on this hub...
@@lgoamity Yeah I think it may be better to buy a cheap powered one
Guys, Do you know the name of the power cable? I want to buy it.
@@psatirhandal6927 You can search for USB HUB or Powered USB HUB
I wonder if it came with a power cord for that hole
This one was so cheap that it didn't come with the power supply, but I have seen other packages that did include it at a higher price.
Will it be safe to plug this hub into a power plug while it is plugged into a computer at the same time?
I have seen one that gives an optional power supply for way less than a dollar, would not turst!
is the unit still working?
i´ve got one here that is kinda like this one but does not have this ceramic resonator thing, and... doesnt work
Can you tear down an eBay PS4 5-port USB Hub? They look so sketchy!
I just tried removing the epoxy didn't knew it had jumper wires 😂😂
that's some good floor boards
So can I use this if I plug it into my laptop will it work?
I bought a usb hub thinking it would charge some of my devices but it doesn’t and I thought if I plug dc power into the circle port it would give it more power to charge my devices. Is this true or will I be wasting money
I wouldn't recommend buying this one in the video, it's complete trash. But yeah, if you were to connect a 5V power supply to it, it will power your devices.
Just make sure and triple check that the polarity and voltage is correct.
I also got the same usb 2.0 hub but it has 7 ports. Unfortunately one of the port not working? May I know how to resolve this problem?
I would check the solder points at the USB sockets first.
I spent AUD $11.95 for a 'branded' 4 port usb hub and it died after few uses :-( Made in beautiful China ofcourse. Is there a way that I can fix it?
Got the 7 ports version from Aliexpress for AUD$6.00 shipped. A more expensive 8 in1 metal casing died after it overheated ( was using a usb adapter though - might be a factor ).
im having a problem opening it
what if i use for charger only? Is it good enough?
It would work for charging I think, but it doesn't support fast charging or anything fancy.
yep
why dont work connect to otg??
Probably because it is such a cheap crappy USB hub. I don't recommend buying it at all. A better quality hub will be much more reliable.
what the fuck do you expect . It's cheap, it's going to have limitations to its quality .
But why do we need USB hubs if USB stands for Universal Serial Bus? Also, I2C busses do not require hubs to connect multiple devices.
I got this thing yesterday for 6$ and it is horrible.
ok
These are garbage. Mine does a connect disconnect loop and nothing else.
These come with a faulty cable included :\
Once you buy a high quality cable, it works just fine :P
This is fake usb2.0 and the speed is so lame slower.
It supports usb 2.0 & usb 3.0, depends whether windows detects it has a usb 3.0 hub or a generic 2.0 hub with missing drivers.
Complete Garbage. I have a seven-port.