How long can I store the mixture after I mix manually the 50:1 (1 gallon gas:2.6 Oz oil)? I may be left with 1/2 gallon leftover after using it on 2 stroke leaf blower. Can I pour this into my Honda crv or should I just throw away since it’s going to snow anyways here in a month?
For 50:1... In Canada here we have Pop bottles in 710ml. Buy a 20 ml syringe, put 14ml of Stihl approved oil and put it in the empty pop bottle. Fill the remainder of the pop bottle with ethanol free hi test. You now have a perfect tank full, so be thankful for this tip. Small fresh batch, no waste no old fuel.
Do it the easy way. 2,6 ounces of Oil mixture is easy to put into a gal. of fuel. Do you have an old shot glass, you no longer use for drinks, then take it and fill it up to the Shot line... that equals One ounce. Do it again, and of course pour the one ounce shots into the 1 gall of fuel. That leaves only >6 of a shot glass full remaining to put into the fuel mixture, so pour slightly above the half way mark on the one ounce glass, and you have the right amount of oil added to your fuel for a 50 to 1 mix. Now don't just shake the fuel can to mix the oil with the gas. Do yourself a favour, and take a stick, and stir by hand the gas mixture properly, so it's all mixed toughly, and completely, top to bottom. Once it has been stirred properly, the proper mix, will be exactly the same from the top of your fuel can, to the very last drop in that can. That mixture will never change. Some people don't mix their oil and fuel properly, and the oil is not spread evenly throughout the gas in the can. Oil can settle at the bottom of the can, if not stirred properly, where you'll be pulling near pure gas into your tank, if poured when the fuel can is full, and by the time you get down to the bottom of the can (if you haven't burnt your engine out by now for lack of lubing), you will be putting gas, with way too much oil in it, because the oil settled at the bottom of the can, while just shaking it. Shaking doesn't properly mix the oil with the gas, so it's best you stir the gas and oil at the very beginning, when you fist mix your fuel up. This way, you have an exactly proper 50 to 1 ratio, from the very top of your fuel can right down to the very last drop. Believe me, your engine will love you for it, and not fail to start, or burn up.
Why would you need hi octane for a very low compression engine. is premium the "best you can get" or is the correct fuel the best you can get? Why not use 100LL?
Stop thinking about octane. Is non ethanol fuel available in 87 octane? NO. Run ALL your outdoor power equipment with NON ethanol fuel. In most areas, especially near lake recreation areas, they sell REC gas or recreation gas. Meaning nonethanol fuel which is usually 89 or 90 octane. The performance of your equipment is NOT actually improved because of higher octane rather because there is NO ethanol in the gas. Also, the effects of the ethanol in the fuel reeks havoc with the fuel system if left in the system long term.
@@CuriousKL Well if you extracted my point correctly you would understand that my previous statement was that High octane or "premium" makes no sense for this application! The absence of ethanol in garden utility engines is the important part! it's not at all a matter of performance it's completely about degrading polly or "rubber" components in carburetors. It also has a great affinity for moisture this is why it has been used as a desiccant! My suggesting 100 LL was sarcasm.
Like usual, there are many ways to skin a cat. Another way is to just add three zero's and divide by 50 for a 50:1 in metric. For instance, 35L of fuel would be 35000/50 = 700ml. If you had 5L of fuel, it would be 5000/50=100ml of mix. As you can see, I am just converting L to ml first by multiplying by 1000.
You are doing the correct thing, ethanol free is the best choice for longterm preservation of garden utility engines. It should be illegal to market high octane fuel as "premium" people including this video producer have no understanding of what these different fuel types are for. He is caught up in the idea that it cost more and is called "premium" so + = better. WRONG.
@@AviewFromUnder In some places, premium grade fuel is ethanol-free. But aside from ethanol vs non-ethanol, you want a high octane for gas that is going to sit around. The octane rating drops as gas ages. If you start with the minimum octane for your equipment and it takes a season or more to use it all then you'll be below the minimum octane rating by the time you finish the gas. Higher octane in air cooled motors also helps keep pinging/knocking away on the days where the ambient temps are hot and the motor is working hard. If you look at the engineered fuel in a can that stihl, husqvarna, and echo all sell, they are all non-ethanol and high octane. The idea that high octane "premium" fuel is only needed if you drive a performance sports car is itself WRONG.
If you use your weedeater, chainsaw, leaf blower alot, then yes, it is expensive. But if you're someone with a small suburban home, that's half an acre or less, buying premix is not that bad.
Not sure why this is so hard for people. 50:1 is 2.6oz or 1/3cup of oil. If you want to make it stupid simple buy those premix bottles for 50:1 and mix it with a gallon of gas. Hell you can even buy a 100ml graduated cylinder for some goofy measurements like only mixing 4 cups of gas. 4cup = 0.25 of a gallon. oil required for 50:1 is 0.64oz or 18.9oz. fill your little graduated cylinder to 20ml then dump it in. ez pz.
40:1 is 40 parts gas to 1 part oil. 50:1 is 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. If you're mixing 1 gallon of gas the difference is 0.64 oz (just under 4 teaspoons) of oil.
Please see questions below: 1: Is non oxygenated gas same as non Ethanol? 2: How long can I store the 2.6 fl Oz : 1 gallon mixture? Can I use it for next year if I use it this year especially if I store in a cold non insulated garage? I live in Minnesota. 3. Can I do 1.3 Fl Oz: 0.5 gallon mixture which is half but the same ratio?
I see this type of ignorance in a lot of places. It is a simple issue to resolve. That is accomplished by first clearing the brain of all the old school way of thinking. 2 cycle engines do not have an oil sump, therefore lubrication must be carried in the fuel. Here is what confuses people. 50:1, 32:1, 40:1 and so on. With that method or thinking 2 things are required for it to work correctly, requiring that your machine doesn't get destroyed. One, the oil used is properly formulated, and two, the actual correct mixture is known and how to apply it. So here's the answer. Purchase the correct 2 cycle oil that is simple to use. Amsoil Sabre Pro 2 cycle oil mixed with 1.5 ounces (3 tablespoons) to a one gallon of gasoline will work with ALL 2 cycle applications. If you need more than a gallon of mix, it is simple math. 5 gallons of mix requires 5 gallons of gasoline and 7.5 ounces of oil. 3 gallons of mix requires 3 gallons of gasoline and 4.5 ounce of oil. Been running my equipment that way since the early 80's. No lubrication failures.
I love the back ground sound ❤❤❤ 🦅
Yes. I live in the a heavily wooded area.
2.6 fluid ounces of 2 cycle oil per 1 gallon of premium or non-ethanol gas = 50:1
Thankx
Thanks 🙏
1:33 is ok ?
1mL oil for every 50mL of gas? (metric)
@@dennissirvent8811 no. Not milliliters. 2.6 ounces in 1 gallon of nonethanol gas.
How long can I store the mixture after I mix manually the 50:1 (1 gallon gas:2.6 Oz oil)? I may be left with 1/2 gallon leftover after using it on 2 stroke leaf blower. Can I pour this into my Honda crv or should I just throw away since it’s going to snow anyways here in a month?
For 50:1...
In Canada here we have Pop bottles in 710ml. Buy a 20 ml syringe, put 14ml of Stihl approved oil and put it in the empty pop bottle. Fill the remainder of the pop bottle with ethanol free hi test. You now have a perfect tank full, so be thankful for this tip.
Small fresh batch, no waste no old fuel.
Helped a lot, Thanks Bro!!
Thank you: you said the magic word. First time I used TrueFuel . Very clear vídeo explanation
Do it the easy way. 2,6 ounces of Oil mixture is easy to put into a gal. of fuel. Do you have an old shot glass, you no longer use for drinks, then take it and fill it up to the Shot line... that equals One ounce. Do it again, and of course pour the one ounce shots into the 1 gall of fuel. That leaves only >6 of a shot glass full remaining to put into the fuel mixture, so pour slightly above the half way mark on the one ounce glass, and you have the right amount of oil added to your fuel for a 50 to 1 mix. Now don't just shake the fuel can to mix the oil with the gas. Do yourself a favour, and take a stick, and stir by hand the gas mixture properly, so it's all mixed toughly, and completely, top to bottom. Once it has been stirred properly, the proper mix, will be exactly the same from the top of your fuel can, to the very last drop in that can. That mixture will never change. Some people don't mix their oil and fuel properly, and the oil is not spread evenly throughout the gas in the can. Oil can settle at the bottom of the can, if not stirred properly, where you'll be pulling near pure gas into your tank, if poured when the fuel can is full, and by the time you get down to the bottom of the can (if you haven't burnt your engine out by now for lack of lubing), you will be putting gas, with way too much oil in it, because the oil settled at the bottom of the can, while just shaking it. Shaking doesn't properly mix the oil with the gas, so it's best you stir the gas and oil at the very beginning, when you fist mix your fuel up. This way, you have an exactly proper 50 to 1 ratio, from the very top of your fuel can right down to the very last drop. Believe me, your engine will love you for it, and not fail to start, or burn up.
Why would you need hi octane for a very low compression engine. is premium the "best you can get" or is the correct fuel the best you can get? Why not use 100LL?
Stop thinking about octane. Is non ethanol fuel available in 87 octane? NO. Run ALL your outdoor power equipment with NON ethanol fuel. In most areas, especially near lake recreation areas, they sell REC gas or recreation gas. Meaning nonethanol fuel which is usually 89 or 90 octane. The performance of your equipment is NOT actually improved because of higher octane rather because there is NO ethanol in the gas. Also, the effects of the ethanol in the fuel reeks havoc with the fuel system if left in the system long term.
@@CuriousKL Well if you extracted my point correctly you would understand that my previous statement was that High octane or "premium" makes no sense for this application! The absence of ethanol in garden utility engines is the important part! it's not at all a matter of performance it's completely about degrading polly or "rubber" components in carburetors. It also has a great affinity for moisture this is why it has been used as a desiccant! My suggesting 100 LL was sarcasm.
I want to actually see a person physically pour the ratio 50:1 or 25:1 into a container. I can’t find one video to show this.
Like usual, there are many ways to skin a cat. Another way is to just add three zero's and divide by 50 for a 50:1 in metric. For instance, 35L of fuel would be 35000/50 = 700ml. If you had 5L of fuel, it would be 5000/50=100ml of mix. As you can see, I am just converting L to ml first by multiplying by 1000.
To much math. Just get a gallon of gas and a 2.6oz bottle of oil and mix!
What will happen if you fill up the gas tank with gasoline mixed with round up weed killer and sugar
You get a super weed eater.I tried it and it works but don't breathe the fumes.They cause gynoclamastia.Trust me I know.
Yeah I did it also on my snow blower it became a super snow blower , I started that baby up and it did my drive way all by it’s self.
Premium gas in iowa has ethanol in it, it’s the regular unleaded that has no ethanol.
You are doing the correct thing, ethanol free is the best choice for longterm preservation of garden utility engines. It should be illegal to market high octane fuel as "premium" people including this video producer have no understanding of what these different fuel types are for. He is caught up in the idea that it cost more and is called "premium" so + = better. WRONG.
@@AviewFromUnder In some places, premium grade fuel is ethanol-free. But aside from ethanol vs non-ethanol, you want a high octane for gas that is going to sit around. The octane rating drops as gas ages. If you start with the minimum octane for your equipment and it takes a season or more to use it all then you'll be below the minimum octane rating by the time you finish the gas. Higher octane in air cooled motors also helps keep pinging/knocking away on the days where the ambient temps are hot and the motor is working hard. If you look at the engineered fuel in a can that stihl, husqvarna, and echo all sell, they are all non-ethanol and high octane. The idea that high octane "premium" fuel is only needed if you drive a performance sports car is itself WRONG.
Is it bad if you have oil leaking from exhaust down to the gas tank
Not bad, just stupid.
Too much oil
The pre mix is expensive after a season fo use
If you use your weedeater, chainsaw, leaf blower alot, then yes, it is expensive. But if you're someone with a small suburban home, that's half an acre or less, buying premix is not that bad.
Buy pre mix is both stupid and dangerous not to mention way too expensive.
Not sure why this is so hard for people. 50:1 is 2.6oz or 1/3cup of oil. If you want to make it stupid simple buy those premix bottles for 50:1 and mix it with a gallon of gas. Hell you can even buy a 100ml graduated cylinder for some goofy measurements like only mixing 4 cups of gas. 4cup = 0.25 of a gallon. oil required for 50:1 is 0.64oz or 18.9oz. fill your little graduated cylinder to 20ml then dump it in. ez pz.
1mL oil for every 50mL of gas? (metric)
I priced some TruFuel 50:1 pre mix at Tractor Supply today 4/24/22. It was about $25 for 110 ounces almost a gallon.
There was a video about trufuel saying that it was no good. I’ve been using it. Have you had any bad experiences with trufuel?
Walmart 19.99
Can you pls tell me what's the difference between 40:1 and 50:1
40:1 is 40 parts gas to 1 part oil. 50:1 is 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. If you're mixing 1 gallon of gas the difference is 0.64 oz (just under 4 teaspoons) of oil.
10
Stupidity. Use Amsoil Sabre Pro 2 cycle oil mixed at 1.5 ounces (3 tablespoons) to a gallon of non ethanol gas runs everything you got.
Please see questions below:
1: Is non oxygenated gas same as non Ethanol?
2: How long can I store the 2.6 fl Oz : 1 gallon mixture? Can I use it for next year if I use it this year especially if I store in a cold non insulated garage? I live in Minnesota.
3. Can I do 1.3 Fl Oz: 0.5 gallon mixture which is half but the same ratio?
I just pour a lil of that shit lot of gas
I see this type of ignorance in a lot of places. It is a simple issue to resolve. That is accomplished by first clearing the brain of all the old school way of thinking. 2 cycle engines do not have an oil sump, therefore lubrication must be carried in the fuel. Here is what confuses people. 50:1, 32:1, 40:1 and so on. With that method or thinking 2 things are required for it to work correctly, requiring that your machine doesn't get destroyed. One, the oil used is properly formulated, and two, the actual correct mixture is known and how to apply it. So here's the answer. Purchase the correct 2 cycle oil that is simple to use. Amsoil Sabre Pro 2 cycle oil mixed with 1.5 ounces (3 tablespoons) to a one gallon of gasoline will work with ALL 2 cycle applications. If you need more than a gallon of mix, it is simple math. 5 gallons of mix requires 5 gallons of gasoline and 7.5 ounces of oil. 3 gallons of mix requires 3 gallons of gasoline and 4.5 ounce of oil. Been running my equipment that way since the early 80's. No lubrication failures.