Awesome video! I keep reviewing all your videos since I have a real bad case of CRS and forget everything I watch. Thanks for posting the links because I can't seem to find anything local. Keep up the great content.
Hey Ginja, really liking your "This Is My Lawn" series! Following your process and seeing the results is giving me confidence that I might be able to do it, too. Keep uploading content; it is excellent.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm hoping people will copy what I do. Moving into this house gave me a great opportunity to show people how to go from A to Z. Thanks again for the positive vibes. Have a great day.
I recently found your channel and love it. Appreciate all the tips. In this video I notice the trampoline and the grass underneath it looks well maintained , what’s the best way to have a trampoline up for the kids and not killing or damaging the grass underneath it. All I’ve been doing thus far is move it around weekly, that’s gets annoying.
absolutely!!! There are sooooo many right ways. I find that the solutions change from region to region and from problem to problem. Thanks for commenting and have a great day!
Great info!! Few people preach about the importance of mycorrhizae and on plant health. I used myco apply and big foot, I seen enough results on different plants to know is not snake oil, keep up the excellent work.
I've never tried that specific brand. I've tried a few sea kelp products and they all worked pretty equal across the board. I love the earthy feel the sea kelp brings. I don't love the smell ;) hahaha.
For the Great White Mycorrhizae (listed in your description) and the Growth Products, Ltd BioNutrients Total-Pak Injectable For Tree shown in the video, what is the application rate for each per 1000 sqft? Could you mix the Great White and the BioNutrients Total-Pak together for a 1-2 punch?
I recommend 1tsp per 1000ft2. You can mix all three together without any issues. Just remember you have to heavily water in the mycorrhizae. If you have sandy soil I would do the mycorrhizae separate.
I've never tried ringer. Revive is dried poultry waste that is a 5% nitrogen. Miloganite is a human waste product with a super slow releasing 10% nitrogen. What are you hoping the product will do and maybe I can help
IMO there isn't much difference in watering habits. Water still needs to absorb as far as the roots want to go. IMO the deeper the better but the sweet spot is 6" to 8". You want to introduce items that will help water absorption. I recommend using a humic acid on a regular basis like essentials plus or a water retention product such as hydretain. These products help keep the water closer to the surface. I used hydretain in my clay soil in a mountain climate and my water consumption was 20% less. I've heard closer to sea level people saving 50% on their consumption. Hydretain www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP7QRPW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07CP7QRPW&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=17e8c3c1345c0f6b8f878cf7ead5fc8c Essentials Plus 1-0-1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1VJBUS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00U1VJBUS&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=f221c8cd77e1595c128fef9bd56221f7
I personally like to cut the bluegrass down to 2". makes removing the thatch easier. You'll have some tip stress from cutting kentucky bluegrass if its already used to being 3" or longer.
Just discovered your channel, really liking it. My problem is my lawn has a lot of moss. I water & fertilize properly (I think). Fertilize with milorganite and ringer lawn restore. The lawn gets sunshine all day. Only thing I’m thinking is the soil is too hard and compacted? I rented a dethatcher and soil plug machine but that was like 4 years ago. What are your thoughts?
moss is a sign that the top layers aren't allowing oxygen flow. I would start with core aeration and biostimulants such as essentials plus. Humic acids and gypsum / lime will help. You will need to make sure its getting adequate sunshine as well. I would do a water output test to make sure you're not watering too much. That's how I would start to look at a lawn with moss.
New to the channel just subscribed. Why are soil probes so expensive?! Is it a good idea to water at night? I thought before sunrise is better? I also have new 1.5 year old tall type fetched sod. I have a alot of thatch and dead grass. Temps are at 80-90 degrees. Is it too hot to power rake and dethacher rack? Will it stress out the lawn too much?
Thanks for watching Stephen. I for the life of me can't figure out why soil probes are sooo expensive! 1000% agree. The price on amazon is the cheapest I could find for a good soil probe. Nightly watering runs benefits and risks. The benefits is the water sits and has a potential for going deeper. The draw backs of nightly watering is you run the risk for getting harmful fungus activity like pythium blight. My suggestion is to do some math and stop your last station 30 minutes after sunup. this will allow the excess water to burn off the top. I only recommend watering 1 to 3 times per week maximum. The lawns do stress out when you power rake when its too hot. If you're lawn is getting choked out by the thatch and unable to produce rhizomes I recommend taking the chance and running my recovery fertilizer to help manage the stress.
I know my lawn is in desperate need of a power rake but it’s been 95-100 here in Missouri. At what temperature do you think it’s safe to power rake without having to do an extensive recovery process? I’d like to do it before fall if possible, but will wait until then if you think the Midwest summer is too hot for it.
That's a great question. The best time IMO is to power rake when the daytime temps are between 55 and 70. However, if the lawn is unable to produce rhizomes due to the thatch I would use a thatch rake and remove some of it without pulling out too much of the beneficial grass. I power raked when it was in the 90's. The lawn takes longer to get out of shock due to the heat. The grass naturally doesn't want to grow when its that how. If you use my recovery method you'll have a better chance of getting by.
Pest and Lawn Ginja I appreciate the rake suggestion. I saw your video on how to use it last week and buying one has been in the back of my mind since. Thank you so much for the info!
Myccorhihzae has always been a controversial subject. Heres my 2 cents. I really like the product. I believe the product stimulates root growth and helps nutrient uptake. With that said.... the question you have to ask yourself. Do you have shallow roots and has the soil physically dried out so many times theres a lack of fungus present? Higher altitudes imo will not manifest the same amounts of mycoorhizae due to the change of oxygen and humidity. Having a little boost helps imo. The controversy tends to deal with how you get the mycorrhiza far enough into the soil to receive the benefits. I like to aerate the lawn before applying the product so I feel at least 25% to 35% goes where it's supposed to. Then you have to immediately water it in with 2" to 5" of water (depending on the soil) It's an addon supplement and if you have the extra $$ and you feel you have a need I'd say go for it .
Hey Ginja thanks for the great videos! I plan to overseed my lawn the same weekend I dethatch. Should I follow the same recovery fertilizer you mention here or add additional fertilizer for the new grass seed?
The recovery service would be a great way to go. I would not use a fertilizer and over seed. The essentials plus 1.0.1 would be a great application for overseeding.
Just to clarify, when you say you're gonna water an inch and a half, to two inches...that's like tuna cans (surface) measurement, not soil depth, right? Nice moontan.
All the "correcting" potions take Soooooo much 💰💰 💰💰. I love this guy, I learn so much from him, I implement so much of what is done by him... ...... but damn, I cannot afford a golf course budget to get my lawn in order. The links he posted offer items at less cash than what I could find online.
@@pestandlawnginja Wow! Thanks for the fast reply! Chicago Suburb Here! I feel your clay pains! 20-year battle-7 re-lawns installations, coming up to #8. The "service" my sister hired last year was no "Ginga". $27.50 every five weeks for not much to show for it. I promised my sister that "I could get the lawn to look just as crummy as that service fit a third of the money". On the three smaller portions of the lawn, I won. Overall, She said zibdailed because the largest portion is s disaster. Invasive Black Eye Susan's are growing better than the grass! And I mowed the last week! Shortening already long story: this year was rain all June, Bake 90°F+ all July, brought to me, fungi "Summer Patch", my oh my. I am glad you philosophy given on the videos confirms my not waiting "for it to get cool" before hand removing thatch. The routine every year was "grubs here", and bad water coverage here ND there; nothing like the whipeout I have seen this year. But the just "turn tab" stress for water, not just the "losing color" for not being fed, not jus the "laying over dead" brown evidence of grubs"......but a put black, sooty, thick tar-like without the tacky-ness or elasticity of tar, covering the crown of rootless live grass at time but mostly dead. The Soil Techicisn that texted the soil and talk water, bothbaljelied at 7.6 & 8.1 respectively, provided me pages of a book of an author who specializes in turf: the only symptom of the five listed that I did not get was the "frog eye". Also, the shallow root problem in the lawn is not growing skywatd; but sod kept from the ground for to long never really established in my experience. By year three, it looks well worn. I will only start lawns by seed anymore. The soil is low in N and K but high in P. I hand thatched for the third time so to follow your rules to let the pellets fall to the soil. I hand core areated. I then put the "High Yield" brand 20-0-0-22 (sulfer is the last number) Ammonium Sulfate down; then put down "Espoma" brand 0-0-60 Potash; the Scott's Grub X ( first time ever fall treatment for grubs); finally "Bayer BioTreatment" anti-fungal treatment. Luckey me-,no cure for Summer Patch, only preventative from spreading. After typing all this, I don't Instagram or Facebook.and I could not find an email Addy, so here I am, I should wrap it up. But one of the "MY Lawn" episodes I watched tonight, the one where I commented on the nominal price of the items use in your "cocktail", you mentioned "bring the lawn to life". The lawn sings Evervesance's "Bring Me Life" to me..the past to years NONE of the holes in the blugrass, such as pulling out a mature crabgrass weed, ever filled in. I thought the soil was poisoned by the crabgrass. This year when I take out thatch, the Kentucky Blue Grassnaxt like straw: stickups and just waits to die: no rhizome or stolen action at all. Micro actively breaking die the thatch??!!! Pppwwwwfffffftttttt LOL. I so totally agree with you on this issue. Grass is.also turning albino. Maybe I do need your cocktail after all.....this also the first month I am measurin the fertilizer I out now.. I suspect.evertything, even an out kf calibration drop spreader, until I discover the reason why the lawn looks good in below 60°F ambient temperature with rainy weather. Oh, I used spray adhesive to out my sole back together; the sole has gotta have contact with show just seeds need to contact the soil. Cheers my Great Man Kinds Regards, Mike "Ginja Wannabe" Dunagan
@@michaeldunagan7838 That's quiet the history there Michael. Sounds like you're on the right track. Just remember it all starts with water. start with a water output cup test before anything. make for certain you have coverage everywhere. Don't make assumptions. Other than that increasing the bio stimulants and the carbon will help jump start the microbes once again. Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep going and just remember it's just grass. You can always fix it, patch it, seed it etc..
well water is fine. you'll need to install a filter to try and grab the weed seeds and debris. other than that you'll have some additional weeds here and there
Thanks for the great videos! You make quality videos, I’ve learned a lot. Between you and LCN, my lawn be looking good... who says Ginjas don’t have souls.... haha 🤣
Here's a link to the one that I purchased. I know they've changed the model a few times. It's decent and so far still working well after a years worth of use. Scale myweigh www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LRHA0A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000LRHA0A&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=d9e40e9cabbc9b4cadfc29718bdb096d
How do you feel about Milorganite? Maybe not as an alternative to any of these (although it seems closest to Revive), but as a separate product. I just prepped and seeded a lawn at my new house in the mountains of Western North carolina. I used Jonathon Green Black Beauty Ultra (Tall Fescue/Kentucky Bluegrass), along with their 3 prep products (Magi-cal to raise the PH and add gypsum effects), Love your soil (adds micro-nutrients I believe), and Green Up (adds phosphorus for early root growth). Along with these 3, I put down 2 bags of Milorganite on my ~2500 sq feet of lawn space. So far it's coming up pretty good in some areas, and less so in sloped run off areas. Also getting some weeds growing in which I'm trying to hand pluck. Just found your channel and really enjoying your videos. May look at these products the next time around.
Hey Christopher. Tha ks for joining. I'm not a huge milo fan. Imo its area specific on how well it works. Super low in nitrogen, very high in phosphorus. My area already is mid to high in phosphorus so I have no use for it. Sounds like you're well on your way to have an excellent lawn.
Hey Ginja, love your stuff. I assume I can apply essential plus with a hose end sprayer, correct? I’ve got 16k sf to cover and don’t think a wand sprayer would cut it.
Absolutely!!! Great question. The rate I use is 4oz per 1000ft2. You will need to calibrate your hose end sprayer to make sure it goes down right. Really you just want to make sure you're not putting to little down. Putting to much down only drains the pocket book $$$ and nothing else hahaha.
@@CoachKepler that's a great question. I've never found anything like it per say. It's got sea kelp as the nitrogen source, humates, vitamin b and l-amino for overall health. Nothing I can think of off the top of my head that that has all of those components as a granular.
I use 1.6oz per 1600ft2. I calibrate at 1.6oz per gallon per 1600ft2. You can calibrate the water however you want IMO. The only thing that matters is you water it in with a lot of water.
I can't walk across a lawn now without looking for thatch. I'm gonna start recommending thatch rakes to my customers. Be like Mrs. Jones, I got your A/C fixed but the thatch in your yard is the real problem. LoL
@@pestandlawnginja Excellent! They will chew up tasty thatch and even fresh grass clippings. I have yet to find out which nutrients they like the most or if there are any they really don't like such as zinc or copper. Do you have a book or a sheet on that? Thx.
That's one I haven't run into yet. I'm not sure. I can tell you from experience that the smallest amount of zinc goes a long way so if you're going to test it out be very careful. It causes tip burn fast.
Thanks for watching today's video. Check out the description to see the products I used today. If you're looking for the best treatments for your lawn, check out my favorite products:
Fertilizer
🛒 Propeat Fertilizer
(Home Depot): tinyurl.com/vfmrs480
Yard Equipment
🛒 Sun Joe Scarifier and dethatcher (REQUIRES 12Gaugae Extension Cord)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2MPTHQG
🛒 12gauge 100ft extension cord
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2MQ7hn3
🛒 Thatch Rake
Amazon (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/rimz6luc
🛒 Spyker hand held spreader
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3jAMP6V
🛒 Levelawn
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/31Ry6e9
🛒 Rain Gauge 10 pack
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3dWEoQU
🛒 Thermometer (Taylor digital thermometer)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/30fvZ7v
🛒 FlowZone Typhoon 2V
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3rH6ncR
DoMyOwn (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/423najqv
🛒 FlowZone Storm Backpack Sprayer
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3aTOeSt
DoMyOwn (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/53g8qmog
🛒 Solo Handheld Sprayer 2 Gallon w/ fan nozzle
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2O2ApHy
Herbicides for Cool Season Grass
🛒 Speedzone (For hard to kill weeds)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2UkBVpC
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y3emhy5a
🛒 T-Zone Herbicide (For hard to do weeds)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2ZWLy3L
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y4tqhy3o
🛒 Tenacity (Crabgrass and annual grass control)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2L9xzP0
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y2go983a
🛒 Non-ionic Surfactant (to be purchased with Tenacity)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2LduNIk
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y653upkf
🛒 Methylated Seed Oil Duo Stick (Purchase with quinclorac products like drive xlr8)
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/yxt5q2zo
🛒 Drive XLR8 Quinclorac (annual grass killer / crabgrass killer)
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/48b8jssy
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2ZWZI4N
🛒 Quinclorac 1.5L (annual grass killer / crabgrass killer)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/31ywx53
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/m48nud7m
Herbicides Warm Season grass types (READ LABEL FOR GRASS TYPE / WEED TARGET)
🛒 Weed Free Zone (general weed killer)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3aPRdeB
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/4tlraqeq
🛒 Dismiss NXT (annual grass killer)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3qbtBaB
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/10xoaovn
🛒 Certainty (annual grass killer/crabgrass killer)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/3d0Lt4c
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/14o52u3i
Bug Sprays
🛒 Demand CS (Great to control most pests inside and out)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2muP9Ue
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/v133017a
🛒 Transport mikron (Great for ant control and general pest)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2ntfDW8
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/2de4vs6f
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links marked as “PAID LINK” are affiliated.
Awesome video! I keep reviewing all your videos since I have a real bad case of CRS and forget everything I watch. Thanks for posting the links because I can't seem to find anything local. Keep up the great content.
Thanks Eric! Have a great day!
So glad I found your channel, great information in a easy to digest format. Thank you for taking all the time to share.
absolutely!
Great to have a lawn To follow that is also in Utah. Thanks for the info!
Jason! Thanks for watching. You the man!
Hey Ginja, really liking your "This Is My Lawn" series! Following your process and seeing the results is giving me confidence that I might be able to do it, too. Keep uploading content; it is excellent.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm hoping people will copy what I do. Moving into this house gave me a great opportunity to show people how to go from A to Z. Thanks again for the positive vibes. Have a great day.
I recently found your channel and love it. Appreciate all the tips. In this video I notice the trampoline and the grass underneath it looks well maintained , what’s the best way to have a trampoline up for the kids and not killing or damaging the grass underneath it. All I’ve been doing thus far is move it around weekly, that’s gets annoying.
Unfortunately moving the trampoline is the best option other than putting the trampoline into the ground.
Love the new crib, congrats! Nice to see you doing vids on your lawn.
Thanks Brother. Good to see you back on my channel.
Pest and Lawn Ginja Always watch & 👍sometimes forget to comment!
Thank you for showing all the different products available for lawn development. Thank you for not talking about one specific way to fertilize lawn
absolutely!!! There are sooooo many right ways. I find that the solutions change from region to region and from problem to problem. Thanks for commenting and have a great day!
Great info!! Few people preach about the importance of mycorrhizae and on plant health. I used myco apply and big foot, I seen enough results on different plants to know is not snake oil, keep up the excellent work.
Definitely not snake oil as you were mentioning. Thanks for the comment.
Brother awesome info. Awesome beard growth!
Thanks! Appreciate the support.
You know all all good stuff to use!!
I do what I can with what I was given! 😉
What about removing thatch on Bermuda? What temp is good? Sod was put down in Aug (9 months ago). Browning color. Needs some work.
Spring time as its growing. Be sure to give it a good fertilizer afterwards.
Really great work and dedication. Have you ever used Maxicrop Liquid seaweed on your lawn?
I've never tried that specific brand. I've tried a few sea kelp products and they all worked pretty equal across the board. I love the earthy feel the sea kelp brings. I don't love the smell ;) hahaha.
For the Great White Mycorrhizae (listed in your description) and the Growth Products, Ltd BioNutrients Total-Pak Injectable For Tree shown in the video, what is the application rate for each per 1000 sqft? Could you mix the Great White and the BioNutrients Total-Pak together for a 1-2 punch?
I recommend 1tsp per 1000ft2. You can mix all three together without any issues. Just remember you have to heavily water in the mycorrhizae. If you have sandy soil I would do the mycorrhizae separate.
Looking at this Revive Product. How do you like it compared to Milorganite or Ringer Lawn Restore?
I've never tried ringer. Revive is dried poultry waste that is a 5% nitrogen. Miloganite is a human waste product with a super slow releasing 10% nitrogen. What are you hoping the product will do and maybe I can help
I have very sandy soil. When I do my plugs how deep should I see moisture for? 3 inches ? Thanks !
IMO there isn't much difference in watering habits. Water still needs to absorb as far as the roots want to go. IMO the deeper the better but the sweet spot is 6" to 8". You want to introduce items that will help water absorption. I recommend using a humic acid on a regular basis like essentials plus or a water retention product such as hydretain. These products help keep the water closer to the surface. I used hydretain in my clay soil in a mountain climate and my water consumption was 20% less. I've heard closer to sea level people saving 50% on their consumption.
Hydretain
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP7QRPW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07CP7QRPW&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=17e8c3c1345c0f6b8f878cf7ead5fc8c
Essentials Plus 1-0-1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1VJBUS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00U1VJBUS&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=f221c8cd77e1595c128fef9bd56221f7
What length should one have their lawn before detaching?
I personally like to cut the bluegrass down to 2". makes removing the thatch easier. You'll have some tip stress from cutting kentucky bluegrass if its already used to being 3" or longer.
Just discovered your channel, really liking it. My problem is my lawn has a lot of moss. I water & fertilize properly (I think). Fertilize with milorganite and ringer lawn restore. The lawn gets sunshine all day. Only thing I’m thinking is the soil is too hard and compacted? I rented a dethatcher and soil plug machine but that was like 4 years ago. What are your thoughts?
moss is a sign that the top layers aren't allowing oxygen flow. I would start with core aeration and biostimulants such as essentials plus. Humic acids and gypsum / lime will help. You will need to make sure its getting adequate sunshine as well. I would do a water output test to make sure you're not watering too much. That's how I would start to look at a lawn with moss.
Pest and Lawn Ginja Thanks! If I decide to totally renovate the lawn. Should I put down the biostimulants before I kill off the lawn or after?
After preferably. Biostimulants are for total overall health of the grass and soil. No need to spend money on something you'll be killing off IMO.
if you were to use a soil conditioner with straight humates and gypsum / lime I would say use it like a top dressing. Aerate the lawn and pack it in.
New to the channel just subscribed. Why are soil probes so expensive?! Is it a good idea to water at night? I thought before sunrise is better? I also have new 1.5 year old tall type fetched sod. I have a alot of thatch and dead grass. Temps are at 80-90 degrees. Is it too hot to power rake and dethacher rack? Will it stress out the lawn too much?
Thanks for watching Stephen. I for the life of me can't figure out why soil probes are sooo expensive! 1000% agree. The price on amazon is the cheapest I could find for a good soil probe. Nightly watering runs benefits and risks. The benefits is the water sits and has a potential for going deeper. The draw backs of nightly watering is you run the risk for getting harmful fungus activity like pythium blight. My suggestion is to do some math and stop your last station 30 minutes after sunup. this will allow the excess water to burn off the top. I only recommend watering 1 to 3 times per week maximum.
The lawns do stress out when you power rake when its too hot. If you're lawn is getting choked out by the thatch and unable to produce rhizomes I recommend taking the chance and running my recovery fertilizer to help manage the stress.
I know my lawn is in desperate need of a power rake but it’s been 95-100 here in Missouri. At what temperature do you think it’s safe to power rake without having to do an extensive recovery process? I’d like to do it before fall if possible, but will wait until then if you think the Midwest summer is too hot for it.
That's a great question. The best time IMO is to power rake when the daytime temps are between 55 and 70. However, if the lawn is unable to produce rhizomes due to the thatch I would use a thatch rake and remove some of it without pulling out too much of the beneficial grass. I power raked when it was in the 90's. The lawn takes longer to get out of shock due to the heat. The grass naturally doesn't want to grow when its that how. If you use my recovery method you'll have a better chance of getting by.
Pest and Lawn Ginja I appreciate the rake suggestion. I saw your video on how to use it last week and buying one has been in the back of my mind since. Thank you so much for the info!
anytime. best of luck
Thoughts on Growth Products The Landscapers BioNutrition 3-0-3? Would still need the micronutrients but it appears to have everything else?
Myccorhihzae has always been a controversial subject. Heres my 2 cents. I really like the product. I believe the product stimulates root growth and helps nutrient uptake.
With that said.... the question you have to ask yourself. Do you have shallow roots and has the soil physically dried out so many times theres a lack of fungus present?
Higher altitudes imo will not manifest the same amounts of mycoorhizae due to the change of oxygen and humidity. Having a little boost helps imo.
The controversy tends to deal with how you get the mycorrhiza far enough into the soil to receive the benefits. I like to aerate the lawn before applying the product so I feel at least 25% to 35% goes where it's supposed to. Then you have to immediately water it in with 2" to 5" of water (depending on the soil)
It's an addon supplement and if you have the extra $$ and you feel you have a need I'd say go for it .
Hey Ginja thanks for the great videos! I plan to overseed my lawn the same weekend I dethatch. Should I follow the same recovery fertilizer you mention here or add additional fertilizer for the new grass seed?
The recovery service would be a great way to go. I would not use a fertilizer and over seed. The essentials plus 1.0.1 would be a great application for overseeding.
Just to clarify, when you say you're gonna water an inch and a half, to two inches...that's like tuna cans (surface) measurement, not soil depth, right? Nice moontan.
Yes. Like the tuna can. Deep watering to push the product down
All the "correcting" potions take Soooooo much 💰💰 💰💰. I love this guy, I learn so much from him, I implement so much of what is done by him...
...... but damn, I cannot afford a golf course budget to get my lawn in order.
The links he posted offer items at less cash than what I could find online.
You dont have to Michael! Keep it long! Easy to manage and cheap to maintain
@@pestandlawnginja Wow! Thanks for the fast reply!
Chicago Suburb Here! I feel your clay pains!
20-year battle-7 re-lawns installations, coming up to #8. The "service" my sister hired last year was no "Ginga". $27.50 every five weeks for not much to show for it. I promised my sister that "I could get the lawn to look just as crummy as that service fit a third of the money". On the three smaller portions of the lawn, I won. Overall, She said zibdailed because the largest portion is s disaster. Invasive Black Eye Susan's are growing better than the grass! And I mowed the last week!
Shortening already long story: this year was rain all June, Bake 90°F+ all July, brought to me, fungi "Summer Patch", my oh my. I am glad you philosophy given on the videos confirms my not waiting "for it to get cool" before hand removing thatch.
The routine every year was "grubs here", and bad water coverage here ND there; nothing like the whipeout I have seen this year.
But the just "turn tab" stress for water, not just the "losing color" for not being fed, not jus the "laying over dead" brown evidence of grubs"......but a put black, sooty, thick tar-like without the tacky-ness or elasticity of tar, covering the crown of rootless live grass at time but mostly dead.
The Soil Techicisn that texted the soil and talk water, bothbaljelied at 7.6 & 8.1 respectively, provided me pages of a book of an author who specializes in turf: the only symptom of the five listed that I did not get was the "frog eye".
Also, the shallow root problem in the lawn is not growing skywatd; but sod kept from the ground for to long never really established in my experience. By year three, it looks well worn. I will only start lawns by seed anymore.
The soil is low in N and K but high in P. I hand thatched for the third time so to follow your rules to let the pellets fall to the soil. I hand core areated. I then put the "High Yield" brand 20-0-0-22 (sulfer is the last number) Ammonium Sulfate down; then put down "Espoma" brand 0-0-60 Potash; the Scott's Grub X ( first time ever fall treatment for grubs); finally "Bayer BioTreatment" anti-fungal treatment. Luckey me-,no cure for Summer Patch, only preventative from spreading.
After typing all this, I don't Instagram or Facebook.and I could not find an email Addy, so here I am, I should wrap it up.
But one of the "MY Lawn" episodes I watched tonight, the one where I commented on the nominal price of the items use in your "cocktail", you mentioned "bring the lawn to life". The lawn sings Evervesance's "Bring Me Life" to me..the past to years NONE of the holes in the blugrass, such as pulling out a mature crabgrass weed, ever filled in. I thought the soil was poisoned by the crabgrass.
This year when I take out thatch, the Kentucky Blue Grassnaxt like straw: stickups and just waits to die: no rhizome or stolen action at all. Micro actively breaking die the thatch??!!! Pppwwwwfffffftttttt LOL. I so totally agree with you on this issue. Grass is.also turning albino.
Maybe I do need your cocktail after all.....this also the first month I am measurin the fertilizer I out now.. I suspect.evertything, even an out kf calibration drop spreader, until I discover the reason why the lawn looks good in below 60°F ambient temperature with rainy weather.
Oh, I used spray adhesive to out my sole back together; the sole has gotta have contact with show just seeds need to contact the soil.
Cheers my Great Man
Kinds Regards,
Mike "Ginja Wannabe" Dunagan
@@michaeldunagan7838 That's quiet the history there Michael. Sounds like you're on the right track. Just remember it all starts with water. start with a water output cup test before anything. make for certain you have coverage everywhere. Don't make assumptions.
Other than that increasing the bio stimulants and the carbon will help jump start the microbes once again.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep going and just remember it's just grass. You can always fix it, patch it, seed it etc..
What about if you have well water? I'm in CT and we have a drought. I don't want to be that guy that runs the well dry trying to keep my lawn green.
well water is fine. you'll need to install a filter to try and grab the weed seeds and debris. other than that you'll have some additional weeds here and there
Thanks for the great videos! You make quality videos, I’ve learned a lot. Between you and LCN, my lawn be looking good... who says Ginjas don’t have souls.... haha 🤣
hahaha. if you look at me when the light hits you'll see the truth ;)
Can you recomend a scale like the one you are using? Thank you in advance. Great videos!
Here's a link to the one that I purchased. I know they've changed the model a few times. It's decent and so far still working well after a years worth of use.
Scale myweigh
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LRHA0A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000LRHA0A&linkCode=as2&tag=pestandlawngi-20&linkId=d9e40e9cabbc9b4cadfc29718bdb096d
How do you feel about Milorganite? Maybe not as an alternative to any of these (although it seems closest to Revive), but as a separate product. I just prepped and seeded a lawn at my new house in the mountains of Western North carolina. I used Jonathon Green Black Beauty Ultra (Tall Fescue/Kentucky Bluegrass), along with their 3 prep products (Magi-cal to raise the PH and add gypsum effects), Love your soil (adds micro-nutrients I believe), and Green Up (adds phosphorus for early root growth). Along with these 3, I put down 2 bags of Milorganite on my ~2500 sq feet of lawn space. So far it's coming up pretty good in some areas, and less so in sloped run off areas. Also getting some weeds growing in which I'm trying to hand pluck. Just found your channel and really enjoying your videos. May look at these products the next time around.
Hey Christopher. Tha ks for joining. I'm not a huge milo fan. Imo its area specific on how well it works. Super low in nitrogen, very high in phosphorus. My area already is mid to high in phosphorus so I have no use for it.
Sounds like you're well on your way to have an excellent lawn.
Hey Ginja, love your stuff. I assume I can apply essential plus with a hose end sprayer, correct? I’ve got 16k sf to cover and don’t think a wand sprayer would cut it.
Absolutely!!! Great question. The rate I use is 4oz per 1000ft2. You will need to calibrate your hose end sprayer to make sure it goes down right. Really you just want to make sure you're not putting to little down. Putting to much down only drains the pocket book $$$ and nothing else hahaha.
Hey GINGA WHat type of SCALE are you using can you send me please MODEL #
Send me a dm on Facebook. I'll have to find it
What's the formula for the Great White Mycorrhizae per 1,000 for a Bermuda lawn? I can't find any info on it.
I use 1oz per 1000ft2.
Another Question - The Essentials 1-0-1 - have you found any granular comparison?
@@CoachKepler that's a great question. I've never found anything like it per say. It's got sea kelp as the nitrogen source, humates, vitamin b and l-amino for overall health. Nothing I can think of off the top of my head that that has all of those components as a granular.
How much Great White mycorrhiza per/gallon of water?
I use 1.6oz per 1600ft2. I calibrate at 1.6oz per gallon per 1600ft2. You can calibrate the water however you want IMO. The only thing that matters is you water it in with a lot of water.
Pest and Lawn Ginja I bought the 4oz Great White jar, so use the whole 4oz to cover 4000 sqft of lawn space?
The more you put the quicker it sets in. You can do anywhere between .2oz to .8oz / 1000ft2.
Haha your neighbor's probably looked out there and saw you with that backpack on at night and said yep he's smoking the good stuff.
Moon bathers are more common than you think ;)
i live in west jordan. can you fix my lawn or at least tell me what I am doing wrong?
maybe email my husband@ stevenschellenberg@yahoo.com
Hey aimeerolu!!! Thanks for reaching out. See Myallgreen.com
Mycorrhiza is a Lebanon turf product?
not sure I follow you. how do you mean a Lebanon turf product?
Yes I may try some Mycorrhiza.. The brand you have is Lebanon
yes! sorry, my brain only registers that its a "roots" product.
I can't walk across a lawn now without looking for thatch. I'm gonna start recommending thatch rakes to my customers. Be like Mrs. Jones, I got your A/C fixed but the thatch in your yard is the real problem. LoL
👊😁 sounds like you're getting it hahaha
As a fellow red-haired person, I totally get the sunburn in 30 seconds.
Right!!! that's what I'm talking about.
And this is the show where we all sing songs... cnet 404
Coming to a residence near you
m
Such an odd comment
How is your earthworm population in this lawn? There is lots of stuff there for them to eat and play in.
pretty abundant now that the soil is nutrient dense.
@@pestandlawnginja Excellent! They will chew up tasty thatch and even fresh grass clippings. I have yet to find out which nutrients they like the most or if there are any they really don't like such as zinc or copper. Do you have a book or a sheet on that? Thx.
That's one I haven't run into yet. I'm not sure. I can tell you from experience that the smallest amount of zinc goes a long way so if you're going to test it out be very careful. It causes tip burn fast.