I have used muslin glued to hardboard, with a coat of PVA, and then oil ground. It works quite well, and provides a smooth surface with just a bit of interesting surface variation.
That’s a cool idea. I’d actually like to try that at some point. I’ve seen other people do that with muslin or even gauze! (There’s one artist I’ve seen who crumples up the soaked gauze in places for additional texture!)
I remember you were using Zinser at one stage on the hard board, and the oil based one really stinks. I use Acrylic and make my own panels using traditional techniques, then I use the PVA type glue as a sealant I leave it usually twenty-four hours between Coates. And just to make things even more difficult for myself, I cover them with canvas after priming white, and Gesso that. The effect is very different and allows the artist some huge latitudes when working on the canvas as they are effectively solid and hard (it takes about two weeks) although I understand the Byzantines would spend a year or more on a single panel for icons, so it is no wonder they are still around. I am not in any rush, I reached my seventieth year this Christmas, and I don't think it true that time goes faster the older you get, you just have more of it in your head. Anyway, nice to see you and the kids. Take care and best regards to you and your family. Oh, and a nice piece of music by Alex at the end there.
I like your process! Yes, I can imagine that it would make a very strong panel! I used to apply my linen to the panels with this pva glue…I really liked the texture, although the linen was very expensive, and the galleries and buyers never seemed to care anyway (which was why I put that on hold 😅). Nice to hear your thoughts on time, and now that I think about it I agree…makes me a little less apprehensive about getting older. Thanks for the well wishes for the family. They’ve been telling me lately that they wouldn’t mind being on UA-cam again. 🙂
@@TrentGudmundsen That would be nice to see you all again. I think on a canvassed panel front, the buyer may or may not notice. The thing is I am in a position not to care as I do not want to sell them, so it is what matters to me that is important. And my kids (mid-forties) say they like them, well they would really anyway. We are under the cosh here what with the war and post covid chaos, painting is my only escape.
Great tip! I hate sanding too... Let's talk about all of the music in the room. Do you play guitar? Have you posted anything? Most creatives have (need) other outlets.
Musically, I tend to go in spurts where I’ll really focus on music and make great strides, but currently I feel a little out of practice. I’m no pro by any stretch, but I’ve got a good ear. You saw the guitar and bass…I also have a violin, drum set, and piano that I practice on. I’d love to share some of my music someday, but what I’d love more is a group to jam with!.
Awesome information, sounds a bit like Golden GAC 100 but less expensive. Could you please share with us how do you store your paintings while they dry and afterwards? Curious how oil artists deal with paintings that are not dry yet, since it can take months for oils to dry. After they are dry, I assume is the same as watercolors, acrylics, etc., we can put them in a box or something like that.
Good idea for a future video! Thanks! The short answer is that I hang shallow shelves on the wall, and set the paintings on them to dry for as long as I can. After that I frame them and let them dry longer if possible, meaning that if I need to send them out then I admit I don’t wait until they’re fully dry, but just dry to the touch.
Hi Trent, can I ask if this process would be considered 'archival' by a conservator for selling to collectors? Lastly, can you tell me how porous the final board is after gesso? Does the oil paint sink in much leaving an oily halo? I've heard acrylic gesso can be too absorbent? I'd' love any insights you might have. Thanks for the video, super helpful!
I’ve never had an issue with this gesso either sinking in or leaving an oily halo. (I do know what you mean though because I once’s tried pva primer -for drywall- and it gave me all kinds of trouble). Anyway, yes, I think nearly all collectors would have in their collections works prepared in this way. But my suggestion, as always, is to try it out for yourself, and then continue trying other things until you find one that you like for your process. But I should also mention that I often like to glue oil-primed linen to hardboard panels, and that makes a VERY archival surface, if you want to go with the gold standard.
@ thanks Trent, that’s very helpful. With regards an oily halo, I was referring to the oil paint itself being absorbed by the gesso primer. I’ve seen some artists showing how the oil from the paint starts to create a wet oily halo in the gesso which is acrylic based. Like you say, it’s best to give it a try. I’ll definitely look into the linen panel option. Ultimately as the gold standard this route would be the most effective and quicker to achieve. However I guess the cost goes up considerably. On a side note, can you share how you deal with your rags? Do you have to dry them and dispose of them in a fire-safe way? I’m considering starting with oils but this side of things makes me nervous from a safety point of view. Thanks.
Hi Trent! Don’t know if you remember me but a few years ago I inquired if you give painting lessons remotely and you said you did. I was not ready at the time to begin oil painting but now I am. Are you still teaching and, if so, how can we get started?
Trent, love your paintings! I'm trying to determine how to prime hardboard panels and I just watched a previous video of yours on how you primed your boards with Zinsser Cover stain primer. Did you switch to using PVA and gesso for a reason? Which method are you recommending for long lasting and quality surfaces and ease of paint application?
Hi Ariel, thanks! The truth is, I’m always experimenting, and I’ve never found a primer/gesso that I’m perfectly happy with for every single application. In other words, sometimes I want to explore a more “scratchy” surface and other times a smoother one…it sometimes just depends on the subject I’m doing, or the size of the painting. I have a dozen or more cans of different glues and gessoes and paints (as well as different powders) that I’ll mix together in different proportions. However, I would say that I don’t suggest using the Zinsser primer on anything that could easily bend or stretch, as it cures very hard and you don’t want cracking. My honest suggestion is that you just try several and go with whatever you like best, but always be sure to do enough coats that you’re sure it’s really sealing against the oil paint. Good luck!
Hi Trent So it seems you'r not using the Zinsser Primer Sealer anymore? Tell me if I'm wrong but I thing there's no need for sanding before applying this primer... Also I use acrylic gel medium or Mod Podge to glue my canvas to masonite. And finnaly I just bough a roll of cotton canvas with 4 coats of primer on it. Surface is verry soft. My question is did I made the good thing in purchasing it. It is 8 oz and previously I was using 10 oz ... Thank you for your generousity and please keep on showing us your outstanding work :) Regds Yves La Rocque
I still use it sometimes, and yea, you’re correct that the board doesn’t need to be sanded first (which is why I started using that in the first place). Regarding your pre-primed canvas that you purchased, I never think something like that is a waste; rather, when I get something I don’t like, I just change it until I like it. I’m this case I would probably glue it to a board or simply add another coat of my favorite gesso (or both). I don’t really have a perfect answer, as it’s always just an experimental process for me… I just like to just try things until I get something I like.
Angelo, yes, that’s exactly why I use this. The Zinsser stuff is really quite permanent on panels, but I can’t use it in the winter at all because it’s always snowing or at least freezing every day of winter where I live…the fumes are horrible. Both the shellac and the Zinsser oil primer will absolutely crack if used on fabric. They’re definitely only for panel/boards.
I still use the Zinsser stuff in the warm months. The acrylic gesso is much faster drying and has no noxious fumes, so I use it exclusively in the cold or wet months. I think the take-away is that I use whatever keeps me painting. 😁
Hey thanks! Haha! That took me a second 😅Well, we do have our family channel, @artandhomesteading …not really much art in that one but you might find it enjoyable (it actually has about three times as many subscribers as this one).
Is this their PVA with a different name? I actually have a collection of glue that I need to use up. And, back when I did decorative painting in wood, we always sealed both sides to prevent warping. Have you noticed warping to be a problem?
Hi Kathleen, there are a lot of different kinds of pva glue, it seems. Elmer’s is apparently made of pva just the same as this bookbinder’s adhesive is, but I like that this stuff remains kind of soft forever. And yes, I definitely think it’s a good idea to seal both sides. I usually spray shellac on the back of the boards, which is the quickest solution I’ve found (also, it dries in a matter of minutes). But if it’s raining or freezing outside then I’ll just paint a coat of glue or gesso on the back. What do you use for the backs?
@@TrentGudmundsen When I was painting on wood, (Back in the 70s and 80s), I used varnish or sealer - whatever I was using on the front. I just coated the whole thing, and sanded it one more time before painting on it. I did a lot of sanding on the finishes, too, including down to using brown grocery bags as the final sand - it's surprisingly effective. Even the canvas boards need to be sealed on both sides, unless you like warped painting. I was always told that Elmer's was not PVA - I think by Elmers. I know it smells different and is a lot cheaper than stuff labeled PVA. If it was PVA, they could make more money on it! LOL! I know that at least in Britain, they have some much cheaper PVA than we have in the States!
A nie wystarczy pomalować płytę pilsniową gessem akrylowym i potem akrylem? Ja tak robię i maluję farbami olejny na takim gruncie i jest super, to po co to komplikować?
Hi TJ, I’ve never used that one but I wouldn’t shy away from trying it. At Lowe’s you should also be able to find a small bag of plaster of Paris, which I would buy to have on hand in case you need more “tooth” (absorbent texture) in that or any other primer you try. But yes, any primer, whether acrylic, pva, or oil based, should technically work as an oil painting primer…it’s just that the thickness and/or quality might not be quite what you’re looking for…but try it! You might be pleasantly surprised! (And let me know if you love it!) 🙂
True, it does. I’ve used it for the same purpose with fine results. I think the thing I like about this one is that it remains flexible. But yes, Elmer’s will definitely work.
Merhaba.. Türkiye istanbuldayım. Tüm resimlerini zevkle izledim. Kullandığın önceki vidyodaki cesso ve bu vidyodaki cesso yu Türkiyede bulacağımı zannetmiyorum..
Well, looks like I'll be prepping boards like this now. Thanks Trent!
As someone who also hates sanding, I appreciate this tip.
I was so happy seeing your children. I watched all the time when they were small.
So glad you got to see them, if only for a few seconds. They sure have grown, right?!
I have used muslin glued to hardboard, with a coat of PVA, and then oil ground. It works quite well, and provides a smooth surface with just a bit of interesting surface variation.
That’s a cool idea. I’d actually like to try that at some point. I’ve seen other people do that with muslin or even gauze! (There’s one artist I’ve seen who crumples up the soaked gauze in places for additional texture!)
I have a large box of white fabric, from gauze to duck cloth that has potential!
I remember you were using Zinser at one stage on the hard board, and the oil based one really stinks. I use Acrylic and make my own panels using traditional techniques, then I use the PVA type glue as a sealant I leave it usually twenty-four hours between Coates. And just to make things even more difficult for myself, I cover them with canvas after priming white, and Gesso that. The effect is very different and allows the artist some huge latitudes when working on the canvas as they are effectively solid and hard (it takes about two weeks) although I understand the Byzantines would spend a year or more on a single panel for icons, so it is no wonder they are still around. I am not in any rush, I reached my seventieth year this Christmas, and I don't think it true that time goes faster the older you get, you just have more of it in your head.
Anyway, nice to see you and the kids. Take care and best regards to you and your family.
Oh, and a nice piece of music by Alex at the end there.
I like your process! Yes, I can imagine that it would make a very strong panel! I used to apply my linen to the panels with this pva glue…I really liked the texture, although the linen was very expensive, and the galleries and buyers never seemed to care anyway (which was why I put that on hold 😅).
Nice to hear your thoughts on time, and now that I think about it I agree…makes me a little less apprehensive about getting older.
Thanks for the well wishes for the family. They’ve been telling me lately that they wouldn’t mind being on UA-cam again. 🙂
@@TrentGudmundsen That would be nice to see you all again.
I think on a canvassed panel front, the buyer may or may not notice. The thing is I am in a position not to care as I do not want to sell them, so it is what matters to me that is important. And my kids (mid-forties) say they like them, well they would really anyway.
We are under the cosh here what with the war and post covid chaos, painting is my only escape.
Thanks Trent! I always love to learn from you!
Thanks! I’ll try to get more uploaded.
If it can help: I use acrylic gel medium to glue canvas to masonite. Realy works well.
That’s a really great suggestion! Thank you!
@@TrentGudmundsen You are more than welcom :)
Acrylic gel medium is magic ❤
Very interesting! I’ve never seen that product but I will keep my eyes open for it. Thank you for sharing this idea!
You bet! Someone else pointed out that Elmer’s glue will work too, which is true…but this one is flexible which makes it a little more versatile.
Great tip! I hate sanding too... Let's talk about all of the music in the room. Do you play guitar? Have you posted anything? Most creatives have (need) other outlets.
Musically, I tend to go in spurts where I’ll really focus on music and make great strides, but currently I feel a little out of practice. I’m no pro by any stretch, but I’ve got a good ear. You saw the guitar and bass…I also have a violin, drum set, and piano that I practice on. I’d love to share some of my music someday, but what I’d love more is a group to jam with!.
Trent, dawno nie publikowałeś...mam nadzieję, że wszystko w porządku. Pozdrawiam z Polski.
Awesome information, sounds a bit like Golden GAC 100 but less expensive. Could you please share with us how do you store your paintings while they dry and afterwards? Curious how oil artists deal with paintings that are not dry yet, since it can take months for oils to dry. After they are dry, I assume is the same as watercolors, acrylics, etc., we can put them in a box or something like that.
Good idea for a future video! Thanks! The short answer is that I hang shallow shelves on the wall, and set the paintings on them to dry for as long as I can. After that I frame them and let them dry longer if possible, meaning that if I need to send them out then I admit I don’t wait until they’re fully dry, but just dry to the touch.
Hey Trent, have you tried the micheal Harding non absorbant gesso primer. Seals, primes and gessos any surface - no other product needed. Great stuff.
No, I didn’t know that MH made such a product. (Makes me wonder if it, too, is made with pva glue). Would be fun to try it out and see! Thanks!
Hi Trent, can I ask if this process would be considered 'archival' by a conservator for selling to collectors? Lastly, can you tell me how porous the final board is after gesso? Does the oil paint sink in much leaving an oily halo? I've heard acrylic gesso can be too absorbent? I'd' love any insights you might have. Thanks for the video, super helpful!
I’ve never had an issue with this gesso either sinking in or leaving an oily halo. (I do know what you mean though because I once’s tried pva primer -for drywall- and it gave me all kinds of trouble). Anyway, yes, I think nearly all collectors would have in their collections works prepared in this way. But my suggestion, as always, is to try it out for yourself, and then continue trying other things until you find one that you like for your process. But I should also mention that I often like to glue oil-primed linen to hardboard panels, and that makes a VERY archival surface, if you want to go with the gold standard.
@ thanks Trent, that’s very helpful. With regards an oily halo, I was referring to the oil paint itself being absorbed by the gesso primer. I’ve seen some artists showing how the oil from the paint starts to create a wet oily halo in the gesso which is acrylic based. Like you say, it’s best to give it a try. I’ll definitely look into the linen panel option. Ultimately as the gold standard this route would be the most effective and quicker to achieve. However I guess the cost goes up considerably. On a side note, can you share how you deal with your rags? Do you have to dry them and dispose of them in a fire-safe way? I’m considering starting with oils but this side of things makes me nervous from a safety point of view. Thanks.
Hi Trent! Don’t know if you remember me but a few years ago I inquired if you give painting lessons remotely and you said you did. I was not ready at the time to begin oil painting but now I am. Are you still teaching and, if so, how can we get started?
Trent, love your paintings! I'm trying to determine how to prime hardboard panels and I just watched a previous video of yours on how you primed your boards with Zinsser Cover stain primer. Did you switch to using PVA and gesso for a reason? Which method are you recommending for long lasting and quality surfaces and ease of paint application?
Hi Ariel, thanks! The truth is, I’m always experimenting, and I’ve never found a primer/gesso that I’m perfectly happy with for every single application. In other words, sometimes I want to explore a more “scratchy” surface and other times a smoother one…it sometimes just depends on the subject I’m doing, or the size of the painting. I have a dozen or more cans of different glues and gessoes and paints (as well as different powders) that I’ll mix together in different proportions. However, I would say that I don’t suggest using the Zinsser primer on anything that could easily bend or stretch, as it cures very hard and you don’t want cracking. My honest suggestion is that you just try several and go with whatever you like best, but always be sure to do enough coats that you’re sure it’s really sealing against the oil paint. Good luck!
Hi Trent
So it seems you'r not using the Zinsser Primer Sealer anymore? Tell me if I'm wrong but I thing there's no need for sanding before applying this primer...
Also I use acrylic gel medium or Mod Podge to glue my canvas to masonite.
And finnaly I just bough a roll of cotton canvas with 4 coats of primer on it. Surface is verry soft. My question is did I made the good thing in purchasing it. It is 8 oz and previously I was using 10 oz ...
Thank you for your generousity and please keep on showing us your outstanding work :)
Regds
Yves La Rocque
I still use it sometimes, and yea, you’re correct that the board doesn’t need to be sanded first (which is why I started using that in the first place).
Regarding your pre-primed canvas that you purchased, I never think something like that is a waste; rather, when I get something I don’t like, I just change it until I like it. I’m this case I would probably glue it to a board or simply add another coat of my favorite gesso (or both). I don’t really have a perfect answer, as it’s always just an experimental process for me… I just like to just try things until I get something I like.
Thank you for you quick response Trent.
Have a nice and good day whit all your family :)@@TrentGudmundsen
Si funciona el pegamento.
Sólo utiliza una brocha más grande !!!!!!!!
🙏😊🍀
Saludos Cordiales.
😊🙏🍀
Nice,..I remember you used to use the oil (killz) primer, is it just a matter of this being water based and easier and less smelly?
I remember that and I think I remember Trent using Shellac as well.
I tried that when he shared it but I put it on stretched canvas and it all cracked off in time. 😢
Angelo, yes, that’s exactly why I use this. The Zinsser stuff is really quite permanent on panels, but I can’t use it in the winter at all because it’s always snowing or at least freezing every day of winter where I live…the fumes are horrible.
Both the shellac and the Zinsser oil primer will absolutely crack if used on fabric. They’re definitely only for panel/boards.
I’m curious to know why you switched to water based gesso after using oil based / zinser for so many years?
I still use the Zinsser stuff in the warm months. The acrylic gesso is much faster drying and has no noxious fumes, so I use it exclusively in the cold or wet months. I think the take-away is that I use whatever keeps me painting. 😁
HAHa! I don’t like sanding AT ALL either…..Thank you!!
I love your page... Keep being great!
🙂 thank you!
Cool idea! thanks Trent!
You’re so welcome, Jack! I’m always looking for a more efficient way!
I saw an artist that uses this to glue her linen to the hardboard.
Oh yeah, that totally works! It’s a really product to have on hand!
Hey welcome back! Is there another channel I don't know about?
Hey thanks! Haha! That took me a second 😅Well, we do have our family channel, @artandhomesteading …not really much art in that one but you might find it enjoyable (it actually has about three times as many subscribers as this one).
Is this their PVA with a different name? I actually have a collection of glue that I need to use up. And, back when I did decorative painting in wood, we always sealed both sides to prevent warping. Have you noticed warping to be a problem?
Hi Kathleen, there are a lot of different kinds of pva glue, it seems. Elmer’s is apparently made of pva just the same as this bookbinder’s adhesive is, but I like that this stuff remains kind of soft forever. And yes, I definitely think it’s a good idea to seal both sides. I usually spray shellac on the back of the boards, which is the quickest solution I’ve found (also, it dries in a matter of minutes). But if it’s raining or freezing outside then I’ll just paint a coat of glue or gesso on the back. What do you use for the backs?
@@TrentGudmundsen When I was painting on wood, (Back in the 70s and 80s), I used varnish or sealer - whatever I was using on the front. I just coated the whole thing, and sanded it one more time before painting on it. I did a lot of sanding on the finishes, too, including down to using brown grocery bags as the final sand - it's surprisingly effective. Even the canvas boards need to be sealed on both sides, unless you like warped painting.
I was always told that Elmer's was not PVA - I think by Elmers. I know it smells different and is a lot cheaper than stuff labeled PVA. If it was PVA, they could make more money on it! LOL! I know that at least in Britain, they have some much cheaper PVA than we have in the States!
Thanks for sharing that trick. 👍
You’re welcome!
Thank you for the info.
A nie wystarczy pomalować płytę pilsniową gessem akrylowym i potem akrylem? Ja tak robię i maluję farbami olejny na takim gruncie i jest super, to po co to komplikować?
Thank you for sharing.
Btw...good to see you! Miss your videos!
Double thanks! I’ll try to make more…I’ve wanted to for awhile, and now have the support of my older kids. 😅
Hi Trent! What are your thoughts on Valspar PVA primer? I saw it at Lowes.
Hi TJ, I’ve never used that one but I wouldn’t shy away from trying it. At Lowe’s you should also be able to find a small bag of plaster of Paris, which I would buy to have on hand in case you need more “tooth” (absorbent texture) in that or any other primer you try. But yes, any primer, whether acrylic, pva, or oil based, should technically work as an oil painting primer…it’s just that the thickness and/or quality might not be quite what you’re looking for…but try it! You might be pleasantly surprised! (And let me know if you love it!) 🙂
@@TrentGudmundsen thank you! I will!!!
@@TrentGudmundsenthat pva paint is not good. Using the PVA adhesive you recommended 😊
Ohhh your children are soo cute
Thanks
Elmer’s white glue works.
True, it does. I’ve used it for the same purpose with fine results. I think the thing I like about this one is that it remains flexible. But yes, Elmer’s will definitely work.
Where have you been hiding?. What's happen to your channel?.🙏🇬🇧
(your comment here is what finally got me to upload, so thanks! 😉)
@@TrentGudmundsen I've been following you for years bro.👍🇬🇧
Merhaba.. Türkiye istanbuldayım. Tüm resimlerini zevkle izledim. Kullandığın önceki vidyodaki cesso ve bu vidyodaki cesso yu Türkiyede bulacağımı zannetmiyorum..