Great content! This is what UA-cam is about. If you want him to film it on 4K, YOU buy him a GoPro... He's not trying to be a TV personality or a Producer. Just a guy with knowledge trying to share it w/o all the tech tricks or fake smiles! Thank you sir!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
Jerry, I've acquired a '65 Mustang convertible and I've sanded it to metal. I have no experience in body repair but your videos are like a one-on-one body shop instruction and I appreciate you sir. I'm happy that each repair is looking great!
You've come to the right place to learn how it's really done is high production body shops. As you work on your project, if you have any ?s feel free to ask - doesn't have to relate to the topic of the video. I answer comment once or twice a day.
This is a great video I have some rust on my 63' chevy nova and my husband is on his 14th bladder and kidney cancer so I have to depend on myself to fix my rust spots I don't have money to pay a body shop my mortgage comes first so videos like this help me greatly.Thank you for sharring was very informative God bless 🙏💜
You can also mix fiberglass resin with plastic filler to make a brushable filler. Use the correct ratio of hardeners for each, then mix them together and brush it on. Really nice for skimming complex shapes and custom work
I went to college for autobody back in 91, actually that repair was in our autobody book.That is actually a technique taught in colleges,done right the way you did it can last year's.
@@joshuakeith8710 If I can get to the back side, I like to use a good spray on undercoat that stays rubbery like Sem, 3M, etc. Before applying though its good to clean and or sand blast the back. Honestly it you were able to do this it will last forever. No moisture = No rust. Divide both sides by (No) and you're left with moisture = rust - how 'bout that! Just messing around - have a good weekend :)
I love these videos. You show how to get professional results with limited resources. None of this hot rod network 80k in snap on and Eastwood tools. Real stuff for real people.
Hello Jerry. My wife's 05 camery needs some love she has reluctantly, retired it from daily use. It has over 315.000 miles on it a 2.4 banger, driven highway all of its life, but we both decided she should get something newer. She has a career yet, I am retired. I am going to keep it around for a backup car. Little bubbling rust in the rear left wheelwell area other wise she is solid. The camery will be my next garage project. Take care.
@@LakesideAutobody I learned basic bodywork from good ol' boys that still think straight enamel is the only way to go. Lol! I'm glad your dad didn't drink. THAT'S JUST MORE FOR ME! 🍻 Thanks for the videos. They're great!
Thank you . I have done PDR dent repair for almost 30 years , but always wants to learn new things to increase my abilities. Looking forward to your upcoming videos. 😊
My dad used to be big on picks and stuff like that - he had a bunch of those things in the 70's - I never had the patients. That's something I have to work at actually :)
One think that can help the repair last is to try and make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain/dry. Even if have to drill a drain hole or two on the back side or bottom :)
I have went through three auto body schools. This fix is only good if you can get behind it to put a water barrier behind it. Another new product on the market is panel adhesive and a piece of metal over the spot. The issue with that is feathering which 9 times out of 10 the eye will not see if you you are a little high. Cutting the metal out and butt welding is the only way to make good as new.
@@LakesideAutobody 2nd gen body man... Nice! I learned a lot about cars from older guys when I was young and cherish everything I learned including using lead and solder. Helped spray a lot of Dupont Centari with a 2000 pack mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket on Saturday mornings...
Thank you for the videos and real world repairs that people with real determination and only a few tools and minimal supplies can do at home on a nice day outside or in a home garage . I have had great success doing just that for years thanks to exact touchup paints being readily available in a spray can . I recently restored a 2006 5.3 gxp Grand Prix black I repaired rockers and rear quarters using fibreglass and using spray can black acrylic enamel and then clear coat after rubbing down the whole car and energy cured touchup up areas I applied couple coats of quality cleaner wax . The gxp with it original mint Alcoa Oem rims and paint correction that’s better than new car shine get loads of compliments at self serve gas stations from many as there are very few on the road here in southwestern Ontario Canada .
You're welcome. It's great to hear about your projects and repairs. I'll have to check into this car - must be faster than heck! Thanks for the comment and have a good week my friend :)
Nice repair! I used to do these kind of repairs all the time when I was a teenager (before I had a welder) or for my daily drivers. Sometimes if the hole wasn't too big I would ding in the hole and use Tigerhair strand filler under then regular on top.
Have you done series o f videos doing body work out side while dealing with temperatures and weather? I have no room in my garage to do any body work. Thank you again for your videos, they are awesome.
You can apply it to the back or both sides if you want. Or... undercoat or seal the back to stop future rust. It's all up to you and what you think will stop the rust. Personally, I think drainage of the inside of the panel is huge. If it can drain and stay dry in there, you're gold :)
It can hold up for a long time if you can coat and seal the back side of the panel (undercoating or thick rustoleum paint. I've done it where I sand blasted the back and spread a layer of bondo back there and it'll hold up forever because no water/salt can get to it. Even if you can get some spray oil back there to slow down the rust. Jerry
@@brendan1675 It will last forever if you seal the back side and allow the salt water to drain off (not collect) - like sand blast it and hit it with good undercoating. It'll probably start bubbling or showing rust again with in five years if you do not seal the back. To be very honest, it is not the most quality repair, I prefer welding but still trying to seal or prevent rust from the back side.
Another great video! You are amazing and so nice taking the time to make all these great videos for the common folk to repair there own vehicles, a little knowledge and motivation goes a long way! Very nice job and like you said most inportant part is coating the backside whenever possible!
Nice video and helpful. This will work well to patch a small spot on my 2000 Wrangler rocker panel before I put the rocker panel guards on. Thanks for going through the steps of using the fiberglass first, then how to apply the body filler.
Best to clean up the back as well becouse it will come from the inside out again clean it up and put some epoxy primer or paint on the inside to help stop the rust from forming. But Mack sure you use at least a 36 grit grinder before you use the cloth type fiberglass I have made it into molds and used Vette bond to glue it together with the panel twisting some times the fiberglass cloth will break loose kitty hair stuff it fiberglass will stick a lot better and you could use that and eliminate the bondo then sand smooth and puddy ... Keep up the good work 😃
I have a small 1inch round rust hole near my gas cap gonna cave and pave it and layer up some fibreglass to fill the hole today hopefully all goes well
Great video really good job you did I'm kind of learning yet. I've never used fiberglass I am about to experiment with it with my truck because it definitely needs some body work
Thanks Robert - with proper drainage so that no debris can build up inside the panel, it can last quite a long time. If never driven in the winter, it will last 10+ or more years with ease :)
@Allan Sneddon If I could always get to the back side my problems would be solved. I at least try spraying the back side with a mix of used oil and mineral spirits - creates a nice gummy, oily coating after a while and it creeps too.
@Allan Sneddon I squirt inside my door bottoms with used motor oil - let the excess drain out. It fills that pinch weld at the bottom of the door. If you do this once a year those bottoms will stay greasy and never rust. You can do it to rockers, deck lids, hoods, doors, tail gates etc. It's work but it works.
@@LakesideAutobody the car will out last me and you I have a 1947 Chevy coupe stylemaster it has rust spots on it here and there I know it needs the metal to be cut out and replaced. Do I do the work myself or send it off for someone else to fix it. I'm just the care taker of the car it will be here after I'm dead gone and for gotten about. The car runs like a champ it has a lot of up grades to it already but the body. I might just leave it that way so I won't be mad if it gets a scratch on it.
@@snoopu2601 If you are up to it you could try it yourself. Then if you find out it's too much you could send it out to have it done. It'll be a lot cheaper to do it yourself though. Jerry
That's great that you asked that. I just made one but will be uploading it - not this Friday but the next with grit of paper. For now though - this video is a sandpaper guide - ua-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/v-deo.html This one might be start to finish but it's welding - ua-cam.com/video/VBLlA-VAusw/v-deo.html Hope they help ❄🎄😊
Thank you for your informative videos. I watched this one and another you made, concerning using fiberglass as an alternative to welding. I might mention that I had a problem. I used regular filler after the fiberglass application and the glass at the ends of the patch popped through my primer. I know I used resin to smooth it all but after sanding it down, I had this issue. In your other video, there was a small segment where you mentioned Bondo Glass. I ground off my filler and bought some of this and it seems to be working. All that said, did I do something wrong?
Sorry - I was not able to get to your first post on this for some reason. When you sand your fiberglass, you'll want to make sure the edges are smooth and "feathered" into the metal. Your filler should also feather into the metal. Everything should be smooth when you spray your primer surfacer. Make sure you use "High Build" primer surfacer (Urethane Primer Surfacer or Lacquer Primer Surfacer) as this has thickness which covers up the bodywork imperfections. You will then block sand this and it will be perfect. Here's a video on block sanding: ua-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/v-deo.html Hope this answers you ? - if not ask again - Jerry
You do fine body work. However, I was wondering if you could apply less body filler, as it seems after looking at numerous videos from Lakeside auto body quite a bit of filler is applied and 80- 90% or so of it is then removed. Looks like extra work but you are the expert. Thank you for all the tips and techniques!
When I worked I was on commission so I try to get it in one shot. A lot of guys would wipe a thin layer, sand, spread another layer, sand, etc. I don't mind wasting the filler as it is pretty cheap - 19/gal . You can do it both ways - it's up to the individual. Both ways have the same longevity. Good question William :)
@@LakesideAutobody I just hit 49. I’d love to already have 30 years of experience! And I’d bet I’d be hard pressed to find a teacher/master like you here in Massachusetts!
I ordered a cab corner patch repair for my '73 c10 but I'm kinda weary of welding sheet metal with my cheap harbor freight flux core welder. ...it's only on one side of the corner before the bend towards the back and it's almost the size of a ping pong ball.......I'm thinking of just eat the $12 patch panel and giving this fiberglass/bondo combo a shot.....besides I ordered new fenders, hood, and door shells, so everything else will be tit's ....hopefully, I noticed a Couple pin holes in the rockers as well but definitely not big enough to do a patch panel repair on so I might have to grind out the rust and do your fiberglass/bondo trick on those spots too...they are very minimal. ...thanks for the great idea....I might have to tack on a small piece of angle iron on the rocker so that I have something for the weatherstripping to attach too.........
As long as the panel can drain and dry out inside, there's no telling how long it will last. Basically if it stays dry - forever. That being said, I usually get quite a few years out of a decent repair - like over 5 easily - again as long as the panel can drain and stay somewhat dry inside :)
You're welcome. I've had very good luck with fiberglass if I can seal the back or keep it dry by making sure it has drainage. Otherwise yes, welding is the answer along with panel adhesive or even JB weld. See: ua-cam.com/video/nbtL75CXmuQ/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/v-deo.html Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for replying. I have a nice 69 Firebird but my 15 year old daughter wanted a C10. The bed has some small homes above the wheel well. Perhaps I’ll try the fiberglass if the rust isn’t too bad. She’ll be a new driver so I don’t want the truck to be concourse quality. Just want it to look decent. We can always really restore it down the road if she doesn’t get into an accident. Thanks again for your help. I live in Connecticut. What state is your shop in?
This is why you always check over used vehicles before buying. This is a good repair but the rust still remains. Rust never sleeps. In less than a year the rust will start to show again. Best way.....is cut the rust out and weld in a patch or patch panel.
Fiber glass does hold long because as it dries it starts a thin coat of rust and it will eventually rust around the fiber glass. I have seen it many of times. I had to replace the part or panel so I know it will do it . That's just a quick fix but you also have to kill the rust behind the panel or that is not going to work that long at all
It used to do that for me too until I learned that drainage was the key to longevity. Make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside. If you can coat the inner panel - even better - it could last longer than us :)
Many years ago when I went to schol for autobody After you sand down the filler you prime it dry it and you use nitro Stan spot putty sand it when dry and you wet sand with 240 grit sandpaper wet . Prime again paint .the spot putty fills in sanding marks. Do not see it mentioned why?
This is how you put fiberglass sheets on with resin. Do not dunk the patches in the resin then try to mush it on the car. You burn your skin and the soaked patches will not go on right at all.
Sorry - I do now - under the description. In this video I just used "Bondo" brand fiberglass cloth and resin. If you look under the description of my newer videos you'll see "Tools and Materials" list - Thanks WMD - have a good week :)
If i sand blast and undercoat (just spray bomb type) the back I do it before or after painting - your choice. If I use old motor oil I always treat the back after paint work - paint doesn't like oil. Check this vid out for rust prevention. It really works well - ua-cam.com/video/DqxMHCizkUE/v-deo.html
Got an old car trunk lid that has more holes than not and I warped the hell out of it with the first patch panel so everything else is about to get this here. I think I'm going from the inside to avoid any piling on such a flat surface. I just wonder how heat will affect it and how long it will last. I'm about to find out!
Fiberglass can be used over bare metal - just like bondo. Prime after you finish your body work - I've never seen anyone in a body shop prime before doing the body work - applying bondo or fiberglass etc.
Watching you sand the fiberglass makes me itch. lol. I'm not a purist. I've got no issue with fiberglass but I personally wouldn't use it unless I sprayed the metal with epoxy primer front and back to ensure it had nowhere that could rust again.
awesome, a guy wanted to charge me $1900. to fix a few rust holes is my truck. I will do this my self with maybe $100 worth of tools and materials. Thanks so much.
The guy was probally gonna charge that much because he was going to do the job the right way and cut out all the rust and replace the sheetmetal and make the vehicle good as new with a almost permanent repair. The fiberglass/hack technique is not a guaranteed lasting repair and all your doing is hiding the super bad rust under some fiberglass so the rust can grow underneath and once the rust grows enough that whole area you patched with fiberglass with fall out or off. I have seen that type of stuff countless times on so many DIY driveway restoration vehicles and the rust will come back worse than before.
Years if there is good drainage so the inside can drain and dry out - free of debris, leaves, needles, etc. Here's a follow up video on same repair - neighbors truck (still fine today) - ua-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/v-deo.html
Hey Lakeside, do you happen to have a video that covers cutting out a section of a “replacement panel” to fit a section that you have removed, say of course due to rust, & you’re trying to get your replacement piece to fit as “perfectly” as possible before welding it in?? Thanks buddy!!
@@gimmefuel7268 Do you mean no over lapping? If so, the only thing I have on that is this - ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html This may answer a few ?s too - ua-cam.com/video/Q3NMsZq09Uc/v-deo.html
Could I use this on a broken ac high pressure vehicle line?? I don't have the money for the part, I wanted to cut the aluminum with pipe cutter then join the 2 back together. Then jb weld tf out of it..
I would go for the JB right from the start if you can. I once had a hole in a egr return pipe (hotter than heck). Ground it clean and JB welded it. It lasted forever - probably still there today. Let me know if you try it and how it holds up - worth a try. See this video for a repair like that (sort of): ua-cam.com/video/L2hU1sog4UU/v-deo.html (right at the 2 minutes and 37 second mark) Jerry
This repair will give a satisfactory exterior finish. However, it does not address moisture from the backside wicking between the glass and metal via capillary action. Eventually it will rot out again. The only permanent fix is weld metal in
Or panel adhesive. If you want to make a repair like this last - make sure it can drain and stay dry inside. Coat or seal the back side if possible and or this - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html Thanks for your input John :)
Does it matter which type of fiberglass to use? Is Woven Roving better than Chopped Strain? I'm use to Chopped Strain but if the Woven is better, I'll go that route. Thanks in advance!!🤙🏽🤟🏽
To me it doesn't matter. I think chopped is easier to work with though. Maybe someone has a reason why one is better than the other though. Good question. Have a good weekend :)
Hey jerry, great work💯 I’m just wondering what kind of pad is on your air gun towards the end of the video when you were using the gun and the 40 grit sanding block before the primer
Hi Jake - thanks. I think you were seeing the pad on the DA sander. That's just like a stiff black foam pad that all the National Detroit DA sanders came with back in maybe the 80's. It's almost like an interface pad of today. Let me know if this answers your ? :)
I love this style of video. Feels like I’m watching a classic how to video
This was made with one of those VHS cameras you wear on your shoulder - A Panasonic Omni Moive PV950
@@LakesideAutobody it looks awesome. More videos should look and sound like this! Also great explanation on fiberglass cloth
@@serjburj8506 Thanks my friend - feel free to ask ?s any time - I get to them 1-2 times a day - appreciate the positive comment 😊✌
Great content! This is what UA-cam is about. If you want him to film it on 4K, YOU buy him a GoPro...
He's not trying to be a TV personality or a Producer. Just a guy with knowledge trying to share it w/o all the tech tricks or fake smiles! Thank you sir!
You're welcome - glad you like the video content. Have a great weekend :)
Have a question, is this normal fibreglass resin ? or BODYFILLER sold in autoshops ?
I've a 1991 that needs some operating, Thanks alot! happy days
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Remington Easton Instablaster ;)
@@kezza10mail is a regular fiberglass boat polyester resin and reg boat cloth. Bondo is polyester too compatible...
Jerry, I've acquired a '65 Mustang convertible and I've sanded it to metal. I have no experience in body repair but your videos are like a one-on-one body shop instruction and I appreciate you sir. I'm happy that each repair is looking great!
You've come to the right place to learn how it's really done is high production body shops. As you work on your project, if you have any ?s feel free to ask - doesn't have to relate to the topic of the video. I answer comment once or twice a day.
Jerry never buy Ford signing of from the Philippines
@@anthonymaniz1933The old f150s with the harvesters are nice though
This is one of the best videos I've ever seen on UA-cam. Thanks for explaining everything.
You're so welcome DJ - have a good week :)
This is a great video I have some rust on my 63' chevy nova and my husband is on his 14th bladder and kidney cancer so I have to depend on myself to fix my rust spots I don't have money to pay a body shop my mortgage comes first so videos like this help me greatly.Thank you for sharring was very informative God bless 🙏💜
You're welcome - feel free to ask any questions you have - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you Jerry
I hate working with fiberglass. But I also love working with fiberglass. Does that make sense? I'm sure some of you understand completely
Most definitely 😁 most everything about working on cars is a love, hate relationship.
You can also mix fiberglass resin with plastic filler to make a brushable filler. Use the correct ratio of hardeners for each, then mix them together and brush it on. Really nice for skimming complex shapes and custom work
I've used fiberglass a lot and have often wonder why people don't use it. Now I know they do. And it works great.
It does - my dad worked at some dealerships in Michigan in the 70's and that's what he used.
Does it last? That’s what I want to know.
Fiberglass cloth is a waste of time and I would use old T-shirt fabric .
Dude you ARE the Bob Ross of of autos. :)
I'll have to look up this Bob Ross fellow. He better not be a dork!
I went to college for autobody back in 91, actually that repair was in our autobody book.That is actually a technique taught in colleges,done right the way you did it can last year's.
Especially if you can seal the back side. Thanks for the comment. Jerry
I think nothing is wrong with IT As long As the structure of the car is ok and not half of the bodywork is made of it. Doors, quarter panels, why not.
@@LakesideAutobody What do you seal the backside with?
@@joshuakeith8710 If I can get to the back side, I like to use a good spray on undercoat that stays rubbery like Sem, 3M, etc. Before applying though its good to clean and or sand blast the back. Honestly it you were able to do this it will last forever. No moisture = No rust. Divide both sides by (No) and you're left with moisture = rust - how 'bout that! Just messing around - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody LMAO! Keep up the great work! I hope your channel continues to grow!
I love these videos. You show how to get professional results with limited resources. None of this hot rod network 80k in snap on and Eastwood tools. Real stuff for real people.
Thanks - what type of Fender do you play?
I have a 2009 fender Mexican Stratocaster and a 1971 fender f-35 acoustic
Hello Jerry. My wife's 05 camery needs some love she has reluctantly, retired it from daily use. It has over 315.000 miles on it a 2.4 banger, driven highway all of its life, but we both decided she should get something newer. She has a career yet, I am retired. I am going to keep it around for a backup car. Little bubbling rust in the rear left wheelwell area other wise she is solid. The camery will be my next garage project. Take care.
Very cool - keep me posted or updated on your progress my friend 😊✌🎆
Good stuff! I've patched lots of rusty cars up with fiberglass. The beer, fiberglass resin, and plastic filler buzz is the best!
Thanks - that's all my dad ever used and he worked at a quite a few shops and dealerships back in the 70/80's. He didn't drink beer though :)
@@LakesideAutobody I learned basic bodywork from good ol' boys that still think straight enamel is the only way to go. Lol!
I'm glad your dad didn't drink. THAT'S JUST MORE FOR ME! 🍻
Thanks for the videos. They're great!
Brilliant, clear, to the point and.... I'm going to tackle my rusty wheel arch tomorrow! Thank you!! 😊
You're welcome - let me know how it goes. If you are having fun, that's success right there :)
Great video! Clear and straight to the point, showing all steps.
Thank you
For a quick fix this is the way to go...
Nice job, good simple explanation.
Note: you really should hit the bare metal with an etching or epoxy primer prior top filler.
Thanks for the support Tom - have a good week my friend :)
Thank you . I have done PDR dent repair for almost 30 years , but always wants to learn new things to increase my abilities. Looking forward to your upcoming videos. 😊
My dad used to be big on picks and stuff like that - he had a bunch of those things in the 70's - I never had the patients. That's something I have to work at actually :)
BEST Tutorial Videos period.no BS , clear concise, succinct ,To the Point.Thank You.
This should be cheaper than replacing my 300DTs fender. Thank you
You're welcome BU :)
If it's over, you can also sand it down to make it smooth.
I have also used this method. It's not permanent. But will get you by for a year to pass inspection and saves you thousands on body shop repairs.
Yep - I over heard a guy today saying he was going to pay 4000 to get the rust fixed on his rockers (2013 Ford F150) fixed and coated with chip guard.
Thanks! This will really help my 1967 Dodge Charger
My 2008 F150 has rust in the exact same spot..I am going to follow your steps exactly..thanks for the awesome video!
One think that can help the repair last is to try and make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain/dry. Even if have to drill a drain hole or two on the back side or bottom :)
Yep..I plan on taking out the inner wheel liner so I can get at the back of the fender. Thanks again
You did a wonderful job now I know how to fix the rust hole on my car thanks
Thank you so much. Feel free to ask ?'s anytime. Merry Christmas!
Lakeside Autobody merry Christmas to you too
The only time you do something like this, is when you do not owe money on the car. Don't do anything this guy said, on your car. Just a warning.
Nice video Wish me luck patching a hole in my '88 BMW
Good luck. If you have ?'s along the way just ask - Jerry
I like how you were honest about the pits at the end. Really nice video, new subscriber today.
Thank's - glad you enjoyed it and thank you for subscribing - have a good week - Jerry
I have went through three auto body schools. This fix is only good if you can get behind it to put a water barrier behind it. Another new product on the market is panel adhesive and a piece of metal over the spot. The issue with that is feathering which 9 times out of 10 the eye will not see if you you are a little high. Cutting the metal out and butt welding is the only way to make good as new.
When Bob Ross does body work, just kidding I appreciate your content! Great job man thank you!
Thanks Ro Jo - you're welcome :)
I've used fiberglass kits from Ames, Kmart, and WalMart for decades to patch up my junk. Works great!
Absolutely - that's all my dad ever used and he worked in all kinds of body shops
@@LakesideAutobody 2nd gen body man... Nice! I learned a lot about cars from older guys when I was young and cherish everything I learned including using lead and solder.
Helped spray a lot of Dupont Centari with a 2000 pack mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket on Saturday mornings...
@@bjr2379 Centari sprayed real nice - flowed out flat, dried hard - great paint and you could afford it back then '80's
Thank you for the videos and real world repairs that people with real determination and only a few tools and minimal supplies can do at home on a nice day outside or in a home garage . I have had great success doing just that for years thanks to exact touchup paints being readily available in a spray can . I recently restored a 2006 5.3 gxp Grand Prix black I repaired rockers and rear quarters using fibreglass and using spray can black acrylic enamel and then clear coat after rubbing down the whole car and energy cured touchup up areas I applied couple coats of quality cleaner wax . The gxp with it original mint Alcoa Oem rims and paint correction that’s better than new car shine get loads of compliments at self serve gas stations from many as there are very few on the road here in southwestern Ontario Canada .
You're welcome. It's great to hear about your projects and repairs. I'll have to check into this car - must be faster than heck! Thanks for the comment and have a good week my friend :)
I like this technique, I have a Ford ranger and I have similar rust spots!! Thanks for your ideas!
You're welcome :)
Nice repair! I used to do these kind of repairs all the time when I was a teenager (before I had a welder) or for my daily drivers. Sometimes if the hole wasn't too big I would ding in the hole and use Tigerhair strand filler under then regular on top.
Good tip - that works really well too - just gotta make sure the panel can drain and stay dry and your good to go for quite some time :)
The Master at work. Nicely done.
Thanks Rob - have a good week :)
Nice old school body work. Love it. I have two Chevelles I need to do work on. Thank you. 😎
You're welcome - glad you enjoy the old methods. Feel free to ask ?s anytime/any video - Jerry
Nice job! I have done few budget repairs this way and worked out well.
Thanks
All this time I've been using a cheese grater for cheese!
Thank you very much for the video. I am learning a lot from your videos. I have always wanted to be able to do body work.
You're very welcome. Stick with it and ask questions and you'll be good at it :)
Have you done series o f videos doing body work out side while dealing with temperatures and weather? I have no room in my garage to do any body work. Thank you again for your videos, they are awesome.
I'll work on getting a video out like that Bob. Glad you enjoy the channel my friend :)
Since the fender was off the vehicle what are the cons on applying fiberglass on the backside versus the front? Thank you for showing these videos.
You can apply it to the back or both sides if you want. Or... undercoat or seal the back to stop future rust. It's all up to you and what you think will stop the rust. Personally, I think drainage of the inside of the panel is huge. If it can drain and stay dry in there, you're gold :)
This is the best video I've seen for the type of repair I need to make on my truck. Does anyone know how long a job like this will hold up?
It can hold up for a long time if you can coat and seal the back side of the panel (undercoating or thick rustoleum paint. I've done it where I sand blasted the back and spread a layer of bondo back there and it'll hold up forever because no water/salt can get to it. Even if you can get some spray oil back there to slow down the rust. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody how long is a long time? 10 years?
@@brendan1675 It will last forever if you seal the back side and allow the salt water to drain off (not collect) - like sand blast it and hit it with good undercoating. It'll probably start bubbling or showing rust again with in five years if you do not seal the back. To be very honest, it is not the most quality repair, I prefer welding but still trying to seal or prevent rust from the back side.
Another great video! You are amazing and so nice taking the time to make all these great videos for the common folk to repair there own vehicles, a little knowledge and motivation goes a long way! Very nice job and like you said most inportant part is coating the backside whenever possible!
Thank you for making this video!! I always learn something new. Have to fix a few larger holes on my ram 1500 tailgate.
You're welcome Michael - have a good weekend :)
Thanks much for this tip. We did this on my sons atv but with plastic. We have a weak wheel well thats too thin to weld. This is just the fix! Thanks.
You're welcome. Glad you could use it. Jerry
Nice video and helpful. This will work well to patch a small spot on my 2000 Wrangler rocker panel before I put the rocker panel guards on. Thanks for going through the steps of using the fiberglass first, then how to apply the body filler.
You're welcome - glad you appreciate it
Going to do this repair on my cab corners on my 85 Chevy pickup thanks for the video
You're welcome - make sure you allow for drainage so that the inside can drain and stay dry :)
Best to clean up the back as well becouse it will come from the inside out again clean it up and put some epoxy primer or paint on the inside to help stop the rust from forming. But Mack sure you use at least a 36 grit grinder before you use the cloth type fiberglass I have made it into molds and used Vette bond to glue it together with the panel twisting some times the fiberglass cloth will break loose kitty hair stuff it fiberglass will stick a lot better and you could use that and eliminate the bondo then sand smooth and puddy ...
Keep up the good work 😃
Good information Peter - always good to hear from you. Have a good week :)
I have a small 1inch round rust hole near my gas cap gonna cave and pave it and layer up some fibreglass to fill the hole today hopefully all goes well
Very cool. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Jerry
How did it go?
Hope that was 1 inch around after you removed all the rust. 1 inch rust spot can’t be 8 inches around underneath.
Been watching you for awhile and you make it so simple and easy verse the other channels thanks and keep up the good work 👍
Thanks CT Trucker - have a good weekend :)
Great video really good job you did I'm kind of learning yet. I've never used fiberglass I am about to experiment with it with my truck because it definitely needs some body work
Thanks - glad you liked it.
Thanks very much. the video was very informative. I needed the info to do some patching on my excavator.
So glad you liked it, thanks for the comment. Good luck - Jerry
Nice job and it might be less likely to rust again than a metal patch.
Thanks Robert - with proper drainage so that no debris can build up inside the panel, it can last quite a long time. If never driven in the winter, it will last 10+ or more years with ease :)
you should cut the rusty part about to2 or3” it’s depends on the rusty part because rust can grow again and again.......😏😏😏😏😏😏
Absolutely. If you could seal the back side with something rubbery that would really help too.
@Allan Sneddon If I could always get to the back side my problems would be solved. I at least try spraying the back side with a mix of used oil and mineral spirits - creates a nice gummy, oily coating after a while and it creeps too.
@Allan Sneddon I squirt inside my door bottoms with used motor oil - let the excess drain out. It fills that pinch weld at the bottom of the door. If you do this once a year those bottoms will stay greasy and never rust. You can do it to rockers, deck lids, hoods, doors, tail gates etc. It's work but it works.
@@LakesideAutobody the car will out last me and you I have a 1947 Chevy coupe stylemaster it has rust spots on it here and there I know it needs the metal to be cut out and replaced. Do I do the work myself or send it off for someone else to fix it. I'm just the care taker of the car it will be here after I'm dead gone and for gotten about. The car runs like a champ it has a lot of up grades to it already but the body. I might just leave it that way so I won't be mad if it gets a scratch on it.
@@snoopu2601 If you are up to it you could try it yourself. Then if you find out it's too much you could send it out to have it done. It'll be a lot cheaper to do it yourself though. Jerry
I learned a lot from your video thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the support Hollywood - have a great weekend 👍🏈💯
Good video thank you. now off to work on my rust bucket. Lol
Good times!
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO- MUCH APPRECIATED !! PATRICK.P
Thanks - Jerry
Do you have a video that shows all the steps PLUS the sanding grits? Really enjoying your channel!
That's great that you asked that. I just made one but will be uploading it - not this Friday but the next with grit of paper. For now though - this video is a sandpaper guide - ua-cam.com/video/V5AyJv6i4hg/v-deo.html This one might be start to finish but it's welding - ua-cam.com/video/VBLlA-VAusw/v-deo.html Hope they help ❄🎄😊
Thank you for your informative videos. I watched this one and another you made, concerning using fiberglass as an alternative to welding. I might mention that I had a problem. I used regular filler after the fiberglass application and the glass at the ends of the patch popped through my primer. I know I used resin to smooth it all but after sanding it down, I had this issue. In your other video, there was a small segment where you mentioned Bondo Glass. I ground off my filler and bought some of this and it seems to be working. All that said, did I do something wrong?
Sorry - I was not able to get to your first post on this for some reason. When you sand your fiberglass, you'll want to make sure the edges are smooth and "feathered" into the metal. Your filler should also feather into the metal. Everything should be smooth when you spray your primer surfacer. Make sure you use "High Build" primer surfacer (Urethane Primer Surfacer or Lacquer Primer Surfacer) as this has thickness which covers up the bodywork imperfections. You will then block sand this and it will be perfect. Here's a video on block sanding: ua-cam.com/video/EQmqKhLkeOQ/v-deo.html Hope this answers you ? - if not ask again - Jerry
You do fine body work. However, I was wondering if you could apply less body filler, as it seems after looking at numerous videos from Lakeside auto body quite a bit of filler is applied and 80- 90% or so of it is then removed. Looks like extra work but you are the expert. Thank you for all the tips and techniques!
When I worked I was on commission so I try to get it in one shot. A lot of guys would wipe a thin layer, sand, spread another layer, sand, etc. I don't mind wasting the filler as it is pretty cheap - 19/gal . You can do it both ways - it's up to the individual. Both ways have the same longevity. Good question William :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! Keep up the great instructional work.
Excellent job. I am going to fix my 91 Toyota Mr2
old school is the way to go haha
Yes - sometimes it's staying simple that works :)
I should have done this for a living!
There's always jobs and you can live anywhere :)
@@LakesideAutobody I just hit 49. I’d love to already have 30 years of experience! And I’d bet I’d be hard pressed to find a teacher/master like you here in Massachusetts!
@@Deadbuck73 Hey - you still have 50 some years! Thanks for the support and always enjoy hearing from you my friend :)
Thanks for the information I learned a lot.
You're welcome - thanks for watching :)
I ordered a cab corner patch repair for my '73 c10 but I'm kinda weary of welding sheet metal with my cheap harbor freight flux core welder. ...it's only on one side of the corner before the bend towards the back and it's almost the size of a ping pong ball.......I'm thinking of just eat the $12 patch panel and giving this fiberglass/bondo combo a shot.....besides I ordered new fenders, hood, and door shells, so everything else will be tit's ....hopefully, I noticed a Couple pin holes in the rockers as well but definitely not big enough to do a patch panel repair on so I might have to grind out the rust and do your fiberglass/bondo trick on those spots too...they are very minimal. ...thanks for the great idea....I might have to tack on a small piece of angle iron on the rocker so that I have something for the weatherstripping to attach too.........
I like hearing about projects Trent - let me know how it all works out for you or if you have any ?s :)
That's real crafsman ship.
Thanks Robert - that's good to hear. Have a good Easter :)
Thank you great video!
Brother this is the best how to video I’ve seen you get a thumbs up from me and a sub. God bless you man keep up the good work.
Thank you so much. God bless you too. I'll do my best to keep the good videos coming - Jerry
Now that's a great comment!
Putting the fiberglass over bare metal will the metal underneath rust?
How long does a repair like that usually last?
As long as the panel can drain and dry out inside, there's no telling how long it will last. Basically if it stays dry - forever. That being said, I usually get quite a few years out of a decent repair - like over 5 easily - again as long as the panel can drain and stay somewhat dry inside :)
Nice.,
Thanks for the information I learned alot.
👍😊
It's obviously better to weld steel than using fiberglass, correct? Thank you again fir a great video!
You're welcome. I've had very good luck with fiberglass if I can seal the back or keep it dry by making sure it has drainage. Otherwise yes, welding is the answer along with panel adhesive or even JB weld. See: ua-cam.com/video/nbtL75CXmuQ/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/v-deo.html Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for replying. I have a nice 69 Firebird but my 15 year old daughter wanted a C10. The bed has some small homes above the wheel well. Perhaps I’ll try the fiberglass if the rust isn’t too bad. She’ll be a new driver so I don’t want the truck to be concourse quality. Just want it to look decent. We can always really restore it down the road if she doesn’t get into an accident. Thanks again for your help. I live in Connecticut. What state is your shop in?
Good job. I was just wondering if you could use fibreglass filler over the fibreglass mesh and then file it down and use the bonds over the filler.
Yes - you can do that. It's actually stronger that way too :)
Thank you for replying. From a 70 retiree who loves his old f150.
That first sander was massive 🤪
Yes - it really cuts through the filler :)
This was helpful. Thank you! Trying this tomorrow.
Good - let me know how it goes - Jerry
Can i use regular bondo on top of the cloth instead of fiber glass bondo?
Yes :)
This is why you always check over used vehicles before buying.
This is a good repair but the rust still remains. Rust never sleeps.
In less than a year the rust will start to show again.
Best way.....is cut the rust out and weld in a patch or patch panel.
This is for folks that want to do a repair but don't have a welder - Jerry
I really like your video. Just wondering how much dry time between the fibreglass mat you put down seeing that you layer 3 layers.
No time between layers. You can leave it overnight to harden before filler.
Fiber glass does hold long because as it dries it starts a thin coat of rust and it will eventually rust around the fiber glass. I have seen it many of times. I had to replace the part or panel so I know it will do it . That's just a quick fix but you also have to kill the rust behind the panel or that is not going to work that long at all
It used to do that for me too until I learned that drainage was the key to longevity. Make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside. If you can coat the inner panel - even better - it could last longer than us :)
Excellant fast work
Thank you so much - have a great weekend :)
Many years ago when I went to schol for autobody
After you sand down the filler you prime it dry it and you use nitro Stan spot putty sand it when dry and you wet sand with 240 grit sandpaper wet . Prime again paint .the spot putty fills in sanding marks. Do not see it mentioned why?
Most of the times spot putty is used for very minor imperfections. You will be able to remove all of your "sand marks" with primer surfacer :)
Nice Job, thanks for showing.
You're welcome
Very much appreciated!
This is how you put fiberglass sheets on with resin. Do not dunk the patches in the resin then try to mush it on the car. You burn your skin and the soaked patches will not go on right at all.
Thanks for the comment John - have a good weekend :)
It would greatly help if you list the items that you used like everyone else. What kind of fiberglass cloth and filler.
Sorry - I do now - under the description. In this video I just used "Bondo" brand fiberglass cloth and resin. If you look under the description of my newer videos you'll see "Tools and Materials" list - Thanks WMD - have a good week :)
Hey great Info. How do you treat back side of rust hole to prevent future rust through? And when do you treat in filling process. ?
If i sand blast and undercoat (just spray bomb type) the back I do it before or after painting - your choice. If I use old motor oil I always treat the back after paint work - paint doesn't like oil. Check this vid out for rust prevention. It really works well - ua-cam.com/video/DqxMHCizkUE/v-deo.html
Got an old car trunk lid that has more holes than not and I warped the hell out of it with the first patch panel so everything else is about to get this here. I think I'm going from the inside to avoid any piling on such a flat surface. I just wonder how heat will affect it and how long it will last. I'm about to find out!
It can withstand the heat of the sun baking the deck lid all day if that is what you are worried about but not any welding near it. Hope that helps :)
Flux core welders are cheap nowadays and you can weld sheet metal with them.
👍😊
Glass boatbuilder says it works, did it on my truck, it holds up.
Thanks for your input :)
no gloves? I'm itching just watch this lol
Joe Budden's Voice Coach if you work with it a lot you don’t itch anymore from it. Very odd but true. Ask any guy that works with it regularly
After a week of working on a semi truck doing the fiberglass work on it, I wasn’t itchy from the dust or strands anymore. True story
The putty & cloth fiberglass is not itchy like the fiberglass insulation.
Is glasfibre a primer? I would before using it.
Fiberglass can be used over bare metal - just like bondo. Prime after you finish your body work - I've never seen anyone in a body shop prime before doing the body work - applying bondo or fiberglass etc.
Watching you sand the fiberglass makes me itch. lol. I'm not a purist. I've got no issue with fiberglass but I personally wouldn't use it unless I sprayed the metal with epoxy primer front and back to ensure it had nowhere that could rust again.
The stuff is a bit itchy if you grind or sand it and get it in or on your skin - for sure :)
awesome, a guy wanted to charge me $1900. to fix a few rust holes is my truck. I will do this my self with maybe $100 worth of tools and materials. Thanks so much.
And you'll be proud of yourself too!
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for knowledge.
The guy was probally gonna charge that much because he was going to do the job the right way and cut out all the rust and replace the sheetmetal and make the vehicle good as new with a almost permanent repair. The fiberglass/hack technique is not a guaranteed lasting repair and all your doing is hiding the super bad rust under some fiberglass so the rust can grow underneath and once the rust grows enough that whole area you patched with fiberglass with fall out or off. I have seen that type of stuff countless times on so many DIY driveway restoration vehicles and the rust will come back worse than before.
I'm sure it would be right but $1800 to fix several rust spots seems like a little too much. @@briang4470
very nice thank's
You're welcome - have a good week :)
Another awesome video Lakeside. Well done. 😁👍🏻👍🏻 How long could you expect a repair like this to last you think?
Years if there is good drainage so the inside can drain and dry out - free of debris, leaves, needles, etc. Here's a follow up video on same repair - neighbors truck (still fine today) - ua-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/v-deo.html
Hey Lakeside, do you happen to have a video that covers cutting out a section of a “replacement panel” to fit a section that you have removed, say of course due to rust, & you’re trying to get your replacement piece to fit as “perfectly” as possible before welding it in?? Thanks buddy!!
@@gimmefuel7268 Do you mean no over lapping? If so, the only thing I have on that is this - ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html This may answer a few ?s too - ua-cam.com/video/Q3NMsZq09Uc/v-deo.html
Could I use this on a broken ac high pressure vehicle line?? I don't have the money for the part, I wanted to cut the aluminum with pipe cutter then join the 2 back together. Then jb weld tf out of it..
I would go for the JB right from the start if you can. I once had a hole in a egr return pipe (hotter than heck). Ground it clean and JB welded it. It lasted forever - probably still there today. Let me know if you try it and how it holds up - worth a try. See this video for a repair like that (sort of): ua-cam.com/video/L2hU1sog4UU/v-deo.html (right at the 2 minutes and 37 second mark) Jerry
Watched this one twice😅 ended up buying myself a cheese grater tool to cut down on heavy sanding 👍
You'll never sand filler with out it now. Start with just shaving off a little - eventually you'll get to the point where these very little sanding.
I didn’t know they let you upload videos with home video cameras from the late 80s
Panasonic Omni-Movie PV950 :)
😅😅😅😅
This repair will give a satisfactory exterior finish. However, it does not address moisture from the backside wicking between the glass and metal via capillary action. Eventually it will rot out again. The only permanent fix is weld metal in
Or panel adhesive. If you want to make a repair like this last - make sure it can drain and stay dry inside. Coat or seal the back side if possible and or this - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html Thanks for your input John :)
Does it matter which type of fiberglass to use? Is Woven Roving better than Chopped Strain? I'm use to Chopped Strain but if the Woven is better, I'll go that route. Thanks in advance!!🤙🏽🤟🏽
To me it doesn't matter. I think chopped is easier to work with though. Maybe someone has a reason why one is better than the other though. Good question. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody aye.. I appreciate the advice!! Hope u have a great weekend as well
I'm planning on buying basalt fiber from Ebay so can whisk the strongest body filler ever. If basalt can reinforce concrete, then why not bondo?
Nice idea - never heard of the stuff but let me know how it goes - I'm interested.
Hey jerry, great work💯 I’m just wondering what kind of pad is on your air gun towards the end of the video when you were using the gun and the 40 grit sanding block before the primer
Hi Jake - thanks. I think you were seeing the pad on the DA sander. That's just like a stiff black foam pad that all the National Detroit DA sanders came with back in maybe the 80's. It's almost like an interface pad of today. Let me know if this answers your ? :)