Converting Orchids to Semi-Hydro | My Method - Tips for Successful Adaptation | Phalaenopsis Orchid

[@txpepper]

Great job addressing the identification and the pruning of dead roots! 👍🏻 ~ Thank you!

[@thingsiwonder2001]

3:50 I really appreciate this bit of info. Everyone that I can recall watching for information on roots said to cut them because they would rot anyway. Against my better judgement I did. Thankfully they are still doing well.

[@francomitchell6376]

I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me

[@aryankyler7453]

@Franco Mitchell instablaster ;)

[@francomitchell6376]

@Aryan Kyler Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@francomitchell6376]

@Aryan Kyler It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out!

[@aryankyler7453]

@Franco Mitchell no problem :D

[@Dany-vi7sg]

Wonderful video, and yours is The Best Channel for SH! I have been trying SH myself with a few variations. And in my environment, unfortunately Phals don't do well. Over the long term their root systems just don't cope well with that much moisture, especially in winter. It took them 6 to 8 months to show their unhappiness. In the end I switched them back to traditional media. My Vandaceous plants also had to go back to being bare rooted.
The ones that really thrived in SH for me were all the Oncidium Alliance plants, Cymbidiums, and Paphs.
Thank you for your videos and I hope your channel may come back soon with new content.

[@jackiehill6557]

I found the pots !! They are great.

[@momepenni]

Paula from Mexico. This will help, I will try a Phaleonopsis, one that needs some help. I learn something new. Everyone I watch, cut off those roots that have the partial veliment dead, but still have root tips. I was doing that, had not too many roots left. I set back a few orchids because of that. I like the idea of placeing roots in nutrition solution a few hours for two days, I think that is preparing for semi-hydro.

[@Twigarati]

I find the phals which come in sphagnum don’t skip a beat when going into SH, it’s the ones in bark that just keel over or have a difficult time adjusting. (Even with heat mats in the past, which I’ve now stopped because all the ones I have are now doing better as opposed to a few years ago) now I wait for warmer temps before repotting any Phal in bark & then 🤞🏼 and deep breaths 😅 currently I have one only to do but I’m sitting on my hands

[@TheOrchidRoom]

That's super interesting, I suppose the ones in sphag are already adjusted to lots of moisture. But my complex hybrid phals came in bark and also didn't seem to take any issue with SH 🤔🤷‍♀️ It's a mystery! I'm crossing everything that your repots in the spring go smoothly! 💗🤞

[@Twigarati]

I feel spoken to 😃😃 got my coffee ☕️ thank you 😊 now to watch and LEARN! 🤪

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Nina, I'm the one who should be learning from you 😂 I hope there was something magic in there that will change your whole phal situation, but I'm afraid there probably isn't 😢 I really can't explain the differences we get, most of mine don't even go on heat mats tbh I just heat the room a little more than the rest of the house. I really really want to get to the bottom of why phals don't take off for you though!!

[@Twigarati]

The Orchid Room that makes two of us regarding phals not taking off or... taking forever and giving me headaches at the same time 😅 it’s ok tho... other than my pride having a dent in it, I can accept the circumstances & keep trying 😊

[@pattymorrowparkerparker7789]

I really enjoyed your video, the way you explain everything helps me a lot. Your orchids look amazing!!

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks Patty, glad I could help! 🙂

[@KP-gw5zv]

Good tips and video. Can't wait to do this in the spring as it is a bit cool here in BC. Will try a couple of ways as I have a few phals. This way I can see which is better then go from there. Love exploring with you on your journey in the orchid hobby.

[@orchidsbythelake]

Nice tip on how high the holes need to be located. I am still in experimenting mode on semi-hydro. Anyway, I am happy that I found a new leaf coming out from my phal which is in semi-hydro. Anyway, I just uploaded repotting video but it is also orchid tag. And I tagged you and Marissa....

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I hope you continue to get good results! It's all about playing around and fitting to our environments 😀 There are definitely a few little tweaks I've found to help out. Oh thankyou! I did one before but my perspective has probably changed alot already, I'll have another go, the tags are fun 😀

[@normantorok5919]

just finished my shopping to convert to SH, so excited...this video, as usual was very helpful, thx. I'll be trying a black river mini pebble for the top layer, so i'll share my results in the future.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Great! Glad you found it useful- if you have any questions let me know! Phals and Catts are a great place to start with conversions- I suggest just trying one or two orchids to start and see how they get on! Old roots may die off, so time with when new root tips are emerging and it's branching the roots in the pot. Seaweed and warm temps. And then wait and see 🙂 If the old roots die off don't pull the orchid out, wait for new roots to get down before making any decisions 🙂 good luck!

[@normantorok5919]

@@TheOrchidRoom - thx so much for the tips. I will certainly let you know. thx again.

[@Grow_Up_Man55]

Enjoyed this video Annabel. I guess SH is to free up your time usually spent watering? I'll probably have to give it a go at some point as my collection increases. I'll be seeking out your playlist on the subject!👍🤔😀

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Thanks! Yes that's pretty much it, and I quite enjoy the control it gives you- inorganic so the only repots needed are if the orchid gets too big for the pot 🙂 Which also saves alot of time and stops the tail off where media is breaking down. Downsides are the plants need to be kept warmer, as wet clay stays cooler than ambient, and dry top layers, which I've tried to fix. Another possibility, if you don't mind the watering, is just literally growing in non-porous rocks, like Rick does. That will stop the media breakdown and regular repots but will mean more watering. I'm trying this for a phal atm, just to see if it's another viable option for my environment, but I dont really have time available to do full watering every week so I couldn't grow my whole collection that way. But I was curious 😂 in summer self watering setups are a real life saver!

[@Grow_Up_Man55]

The Orchid Room sounds like pros and cons to whatever method you use! I might have to convert my tropical greenhouse to a 'British Weeds' greenhouse. Life would be much easier! 😂

[@overhillndalewithjo9723]

I see that you are in the UK. I've tried finding those same pots here in the US, but can't seem to find that particular size. They are either too tall and skinny or too short for what I need. The tall skinny ones are too easy to topple over. I hope they start selling those here in the US. Also, I'm sure you've mentioned the reasoning behind using pumice with your leca, but I can't seem to find it. If you could elaborate on that a bit I would appreciate it or at least direct me to a video showing it in more detail. I am also using a top layer of stone on my pots which I do feel like helps conserve some of the moisture in the top layer. It doesn't seem to dry out so quick now.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi,
At 8:48 in this video I explain why I've added pumice. If you go to my channel and check out the playlists, there is one titled inorganic media series, where I have several videos testing pumice and doing follow ups. I also updated this recently with a video on inorganic media updates for seramis, pumice and dry top layer fixes, which you'll find linked in the description. Hope this helps!

[@overhillndalewithjo9723]

@@TheOrchidRoom Thank you. I'll check it out.

[@franmclachlan9120]

Regarding root die-off, should I bury some of the air roots to help with new root growth?

[@jamesmontgomery869]

Thank you so much for all the info, could not find the bucket on Amazon in Canada, could you please check again on the exact wording..... I have ordered from the UK before too. Thanks I am going to give this a try.. from Georgia in Mission, B.C., Canada

[@TheOrchidRoom]

No problem! The exact product listing is unlikely to be available in Canada as most ship within UK only. Food storage containers and buckets are available worldwide though, you'll just need to search for an amazon supplier in your region. The wording is fine for the search term food storage buckets- the region is different so I cannot see what appears on amazon Canada as search results. As I'm sure you know amazon suppliers rotate constantly, so something available from one seller a year ago may now be sold by a different seller, so you'll just need to have a look around each time you purchase.

[@dvdgalutube]

Don’t you get algae when nutrients water react with light? Thanks

[@dianeparker2075]

Doesn't it make it harder if you take the plant out of the pot, to keep the pebbles from mixing with the Leca? I frequently take mine out to check roots.

[@kenjiro2676]

Little update on my s/h orchids:
I finally got some new roots starting to grow! Hopefully the roots grow into the leca as most of the roots have rotted or was burned by fertilizer(oops!). Quick questions, will my orchid produce more roots from the base? If I do have only 1 or 2 roots grow into the leca, will those roots be enough to sustain the plant until it grows more new roots?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

What type of orchid? 1 or 2 roots will be fine to sustain the orchid until it makes more, they will grow and branch. If you're talking about a phalaenopsis or other monopodial, yes they will produce more roots from nodes along the stem. Plenty of light and supplementing seaweed will help speed up root growth 🙂

[@jackhagenaars165]

I was wondering, when you water/fertilize,do you soak the pots or water from the top? And do you empty the reservoir first? I have no experience with hydro or semi hydro. Thank you.

[@killpop8255]

If I can tack on a question. Generally, what strengths do you use particularly for ferts that state dosages for house plants, container grown plants, bedding plants, tomatoes etc?

[@smallshebear]

Kill Pop: I hope it is ok I try to answer 😊 some of the info re fertiliser and strength is given in the description to this video and there is a link to the fertiliser video Annabel did in the description as well 😊

[@killpop8255]

@@smallshebear Aahhh. Thank you. Totally missed it!

[@jackhagenaars165]

Did my question get answered?i don’t see it.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

@Jack Hagenaars
Hi, I apologize for the delay in replying, missed this comment as I don't seem to get notified for some! :-) I water from the top using a pump sprayer. I show my watering routine in this 5 minute video: ua-cam.com/video/tqUb3PQoZBU/v-deo.html . Hope that answers your question!

[@uguracar49]

Hi.I just purchased a Phalaenopsis orchid.I want to convert it into semi hydro but I am unabe to remove the coco peat and other barks that was sticked to the roots.Especially the cocopeat at the center, bottom of the orchid.Do you have any suggestions?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Did you soak the orchid first? For at least an hour in room temp to warm water, pref nutrients also. Coco peat is usually quite easy to remove, bark if you get a nail or flat implement between it and the root and ease it off it will usually come off. Coco peat usually just comes off in clumps. This is after soaking, dry bark will end up taking the root off with it.

[@kenjiro2676]

Can I use aquarium gravel as a top layer?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Yes, absolutely. Smaller grade for smaller rooted orchids, larger grade for larger rooted orchids.

[@smallshebear]

Great info Annabel 😊
Do you have plans to make one for converting orchids from the Oncidium alliance, dendrobiums and cattleyas as well or is your conversion pretty much the same across the board?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi Ulla!
Thanks very much!
To be honest my conversion process is pretty similar for all 🙂 but my oncis are nearly all in synthic mixes. Cool growers I wouldnt worry about a heat mat or keeping warm, and I tend to use seramis for cooler growers. Cattleyas are super easy to convert in my environment, but the cattleya violacea really hated the dry top layer so I added some pebbles to the top, and surprisingly that was all it took to get it to put root tips into the LECA. Many of the dens I have are lithophytic, that's always a nice thing when I want to put them in rocks anyway 😀 I'll be trying to film more repots so maybe I can do more of this type if you're interested in seeing the more subtle differences, don't want to bore people though! 🙂

[@jamesmontgomery869]

Do you always leave a full reservoir or do you wait until the leca looks dry and top up
Please show how you weekly water or explain that - I know it is important to flush.
Do you flush and then leave the reservoir full.... just converting now and wondering.... Thanks Georgia

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi there 🙂 If you check my playlists I have a converting to semi hydro playlist and a watering and fertilising playlist. There is a frequently asked questions video that shows how I water, and a specific watering video 🙂
I suggest this video first as it may answer some other questions- ua-cam.com/video/_mBy-mPURFM/v-deo.html
Hope that helps

[@kathydevries6513]

I’ve been pondering why you don’t get root die off when you convert... I wonder if it’s the nutrient bath that you do... perhaps it primed the roots to accept the new medium? I think it’s def worth adding to my potting routine... I’ve been soaking them in a nutrient solution for a little while but not for hours...

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I think it's a combination of good lighting, good temperatures and good fertiliser routines driving active growth and therefore more energy Into the roots, increasing branching, which allows them to adapt somewhat to the new medium. One factor, IE a nutrient soak, is unlikely to have much of an effect compared to overall culture and consistency IMO.

[@kathydevries6513]

@@TheOrchidRoom so would you recommend only converting/planting in SH during active growth? Or does the above mentioned factors drive the orchid into active growth? The reason I ask is I live in Florida US and most of the year I grow my orchids outside on my screened in veranda. I bring them inside to my craft room during the winter. I keep the temp at 75, I have a humidifier going during the day and a fan I run 24/7. It has decent lighting but I don’t have them under grow lights when they’re in there. Nutrient wise/TDS/PH, I think I’m doing ok, I recently adopted your nutrient soak for newbies. They aren’t dying but they aren’t super excited about the SH either... any orchid in sphagnum is guaranteed to die in my care. No matter how I follow instructions. 😳 I was thinking maybe the nutrient soak primes the roots to accept more exposure to constant moisture. I know my orchids in sphagnum seem to do better when I put them in SH. 🤷‍♀️

[@monicah5672]

When you start out with conversion of Phalaenopsis, do you just start with a water reservoir? Or do you do a different method when first converting? I have read something on Firstrays.com about first few times just flushing with diluted rooting hormone, and not starting a water reservoir until new roots have started?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I start a water reservoir from the beginning. Ideally new roots should be starting before you convert any plant to self-watering or semi-hydro for the smoothest adaptation. Old roots can die off. No point stressing the plant twice by repotting, then watering differently creating a new air to water ratio to the previous mix which means old roots have a chance of dying, then changing your watering yet again which increases the chance again of old roots dying. Best off waiting for new roots before repotting in the first place, if you experience issues converting or don't have experience or know how the plant will respond to the transition. I don't tend to lose roots during transitions, especially with phalaenopsis which transition very easily in my setup- but that isn't everyone's experience, so you should start off doing things the most optimal way, then learn and adapt as you go. Ray Barkalow doesn't grow phalaenopsis in semi-hydro anymore after moving states, as his new state and new greenhouse setup is too cool for them- I believe he now uses moss. Everyone has different experiences and has to adapt to their environments.

[@Matilda52]

This may not be the right place to ask this question, but I have seen that sometimes you use glass containers with drilled holes for sei-hydro. I am wondering whether you drill the holes yourself, and, if so - do you have any tips for getting them even and preventing the drill from skating around. I

[@TheOrchidRoom]

I use specific glass drill bits, if you search 'Michael's orchids drilling glass containers' it should bring up a video of a common, easy way to do it 🙂 You'll want to start off with the smallest glass drill bit in the set for the initial holes then work your way up through the sized to enlarge, frequently dipping in cold water to lubricate and cool 🙂

[@Matilda52]

@@TheOrchidRoom Thanks Annabel, yes - I have the drill bit, but I find it very difficult to get started as it skates around on the glass until a groove is made.
It could be my drill is not pwerful enough, or I'm doing something wrong. Just wondered if there was a special tip.

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Sounds like maybe not sharp enough or starting with too large a bit, never had the issue unfortunately

[@Matilda52]

@@TheOrchidRoom thanks 👍

[@larryshannon6791]

When you water do you soak for a period of time? Or just let the water run through? Do they grow spikes so they ca re-bloom?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Hi! They're in semi-hydro, so they have a reservoir of water that just needs topping up to stop it running dry. Phalaenopsis orchids grow spikes yes, and can rebloom from old spikes until the old spike dries up, which can be years.

[@larryshannon6791]

@@TheOrchidRoom Thank you

[@rubireyes1692]

Can rootless orchids benefit from SH?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

Now that's a question 😆 The answer is both yes and no and requires you to consider a large amount of factors, including the orchid in question and your environment. The very simple answer is yes- ready to adapt new roots to new setup when they come, plant lower in the pot and increase humidity around the orchid, can help stop so much water loss. While the orchid is rootless it essentially makes very little difference how you pot it since it cannot take up water, it's those new roots that you have to take care of when they come.
No, dry top layer if your climate is dry or you pot high, can burn new root tips which are the orchids last chance at recovery.
I personally put all new orchids into variations of semi-hydro or self watering, but adjust setups to the individual orchid. I recovered my mums rootless phal on camera using semi-hydro very quickly, but it did have 2 aerial roots that I could use. You can see that video here: ua-cam.com/video/QOY5Q87U3pU/v-deo.html The orchid is now fully recovered and has a pot full of roots 🙂

[@MoreChannelNoise]

maybe a silly question but with floppy dehydrated leaves, could you somehow wrap them in a plastic bag or cling film them to reduce evaporation for a day or two?

[@TheOrchidRoom]

It's just a result of the orchid not having had water for a few weeks by the looks of it. With a good root system the orchid will rehydrate within a week on it's own, this one rehydrated substantially within one day and is now looking much better a week later.
What you're referring to is often used for rootless orchids, a variation if which is called the sphag and bag method, where the orchid is sealed in a plastic bag to reduce transpiration. For me that results in rot, it works for some.

[@sjusovare]

@@TheOrchidRoom that's my experience too, here sphagnum + bag = rot 100% of time, but sphagnum is not good for me on itself anyway, it always either dries out out too fast, either stays too wet too long....

[@dianeandorchidsatvictorharbor]

@@sjusovare I know you both are using inorganic media but thought I would mention 'bark in a bag'.
I put a tiny cattleya that was drying out in a plastic bag with some damp Orchiata bark a few months ago and (fingers crossed) its doing ok. Its outside, under shade (South Australia). Old roots are dead as doornails but there is a new growth so hopefully new roots soon.