Fantastic ! I followed this process but one word of caution, if you use the topsider, the seals will swell after use if you don't clean them. I ended up spraying them down with brake clean and that did the trick. Thank you so much for such a great process video. Much appreciated.
I bought a new pan with a drain plug and just on the old pan since I was going to throw it away drilled a hole in it to let it drain out fluid carefully not to drill to deep.
Sounds great, thank you for sharing. Makes draining it easier so there is less of a mess when you remove the pan, change the gasket & filter and clean the magnet for inspection. I am not sure why they designed it this way without the drain plug, unless it is to ensure people don't just drain the transmission fluid, but also remove the pan to do all the above mentioned. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the video. I just did mine and it seems I had almost no clearance between the exhaust pipe and the pan when removing. It didn't come out as easily as yours did in the video. I tried many angles. When jacking up the transfer case, the exhaust jacked up too so the clearance didn't change between the pip and the pan. I had to remove the gasket before I could slide out the pan.... with some scraping. I then had to slide the pan in first without the gasket... again with some scraping, and then add the gasket to the pan after I got it underneath where it needed to be before bolting it. I hope it doesn't leak. It was really hard to get the gasket in place. What a pain. I swear these engineers do think about routine maintenance at all.
Thank you for watching. Was yours a 2-door? Can you share the result? I like the molded rubber gasket since it fits around the edge with minimal movement. We love the feedback!
@@JohnsJeepGarage It's a 2013 4 door Rubicon with W5A580 transmission. It's all stock and the old pan I took out was the original. The new pan was an aftermarket which seems to be identical dimensions. I got it all done. Don't see any leaks yet so hopefully it is all good now. The design engineers really should take into consideration doing routine maintenance. It seems they could have easily design the exhaust with a little more clearance. It's kind of a pet peeve of mine when they make it more difficult than it should be for no reason. Your video was great and helped a lot, so thanks :)
Can you send me a private message on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook? That way no one sees your address and I will send you a sticker. On Twitter, I have connected with a few Jeepers all over the world. My sticker is in the Czech Republic, Finland, South Africa, Canada, Alaska, and throughout the United States. Just connect with me on one of those formats and I will ensure you get a sticker. Thank you for watching. ✌🏼
Question. Lots of talk out there about doing the transmission fluid change at 60k for automatic transmission. However, when you reference the service manual (I have a 2014 JK), it’s recommended to do the service at 60k miles when the jeep is used for specific uses. If not these uses, then it’s recommended to do the service at 10 years or 120k miles, whichever comes first. So could you do it at 60k? I suppose. But again the manual calls for 120k or 10 years.
Great question… so at least you know between 60-120K miles. Big range! If you drive in harsh environments then do it earlier, but if you are a standard driver, you have at least until 120K. How do you drive your Jeep? If you are average early doesn’t hurt! Plan it at 90-100. If you are towing and it aggressive terrain, do it at 60-80.
Is there any risk of damaging the transfer case or other components when jacking it up? I wasn’t aware I would have to do that. Seems like a design flaw.
Good question- Our videos show you how we access this area. We only lift it slightly approx 1.5-2 inches (slowly). This is needed for us to get access to those last 2 bolts. If you do a search on jacking up the transfer case, you will find this to be a common method used. We wouldn’t do it if we didn’t have to but please share if you find another method. We enjoy learning other methods and always look to improve. There is a range of movement in the system so we do not believe with our method damages the system but risk is always possible. Follow up with a professional service provider on any alternative ways to access those bolts.
How is that rubber gasket working for you? I did a transmission fluid change in my jeep jku using duralast rubber gasket from autozone but I seem to have oil leak around the pan.
Thank you for watching! I have not had an issue with it. When you take it off, look at it to see if there are any defects or pinch points. Obviously I cannot say this is anything to do with your leak, but my experience is when you put the pan on ensuring you’re tightening the bolts securely, in an offset pattern (like you do lug nuts on a car tire) to ensure its evenly tightened around the pan. Ensuring you do not over tighten it which can create a pinch and thinner area of the gasket. When I do see issues that occur I really do take the time to do a breakdown analysis or inspection to see what potentially occurred. I’d be interested to learn from you on what you find.
Awesome! Thank you! Thank you for watching our videos, if you have not yet please subscribe and we will have a lot of new content coming soon. Thank you again.
As a new owner of a Jeep, I would suggest bringing it to a professional service provider that can inspect the condition of your Jeep and do the necessary maintenance. Your owners manual would say it is time to change your transmission fluid and filter. Your transmission is a vital part of your Jeep and the work should be done by a certified mechanic.
No it will not. If you have water in your transmission then my suggestion is for you to see a service provider and first determine how water got into your transmission. I would guess it to be coolant that possibly entered through a crack in the housing or possible gasket failure. Addressing the issue of the root cause of the water is important, then an inspection of your transmission and fluid flush by a service provider would be next. May I ask if you know the cause of the water and transmission mix?
I’ve read that if the transmission oil hasn’t been changed and you are at 200k miles, to not bother changing it or there is a big possibility that your tranny will damage. What’s your opinion?
My opinion… change it. The reason that may be said is that damaged has already occurred and new fluid may make it slip but forced deterioration is occurring by not changing it. If it starts to slip after changing it then get a professional help. Repairs will need to be made but the repairs are not because you have new fluid. It already has issue that will soon fail. A fluid change doesn’t change the entire system, it gets the build up pre filter and cleans the pan and magnet. A new filter and fluid that replaces what was lost is not a full change out. Follow up with your service provider. Here is a related link referencing what you were sharing. krakenautorepair.com/can-changing-your-transmission-fluid-too-late-cause-damage/
Yes- Look at timestamp 3:10 -3:20 for the temperature range, and look again at timestamp 4:27 for how we warmed up the transmission fluid. We tried to target around 175°. This is because we use the fluid extractor. Realize that if you are just removing the pan and draining from there, you must use caution due to it being at that temperature. If that is your method, then I would suggest not warming it up to that temperature. A professional service provider should have necessary safety precautions in place. Thank you for watching.
There are two preventative maintenance aspects of transmission fluid changes, 1) changing of the filter, transmission fluid and gasket, or 2) a complete transmission fluid flush. This video is not the flush. In this preventative maintenance step, the goal is to replace the filter, drain what is in the pan, the fill tube and lower transmission. Remember what is in the pan, did not pass through the filter. With this step you inspect the fluid, clean the pan where particulates settle and attach to the magnet, clean the magnet and inspect to see if you need to do a deeper flush / assessment based on your findings. There is added fluid held in your torque converter and transmission system, but cleaning the pan, magnet and filter is all that is needed for this step in the process with replacement of the partial fluid drained. A flush has its risks as well. It can cause fluid to flow the opposite way, and not through the filter and send debris that gets dislodged the opposite way of the flow in your transmission. A flushing machine may be used to prevent this at a higher cost. You get most of what you want with the fluid change (partial) procedure. You are correct, you are not changing the entire fluid in the transmission, but you are changing 4-5 quarts. For a Jeep Wrangler JK - as long as you don't drive it like a Uber or Taxi or frequent trailer towing, you can change the fluid at 120,000 miles, if you do more aggressive driving, it is recommended at 60,000. You can gauge it somewhere between if needed. Inspection is the key, if you have identified issues, you need to take it to a service provider who can help you determine what level of service you need, even transmission repair or complete flush. Thank you for watching.
@@JohnsJeepGarage awesome thanks. plan on doing mine coming up on 50k miles. so basically main point is to change filter and remove sludge on pan. I believe jeep says atf4 is technically 'lifetime' fluid. just wish they installed a drain
Yes. You must use "ATF +4" Transmission Fluid. Don't worry about brand, the formulation for ATF+4 will meet standard requirements. Just to summarize, replace the filter, the fluid you removed, clean the pan and the magnet and the pan gasket. Your call on when you do it but event the early recommendation is 60,000 miles. Thank you again for watching.
On the video, the torque specs are both written, and verbally shared at time stamp 19:19. The title of this video did not say a flush and standards in maintenance operations and repair are defined the same when doing a pan drop, filter and gasket change. This is not a complete fluid change. A complete fluid change would indicate a complete flush on the scope. That is why there are two separate type of changes when you go to a maintenance service center. A complete drain and flush which includes everything including the torque converter is different than a pan drop, which is specifically about this video.
No flush is necessary; torque is in your service manual, no whining, please; just do a drain and fill and do it every few miles (you decide); keep in mind that transmission-fluid color is not a gauge of the fluid's condition.
Thank you! Extremely easy to follow. I watched a few tutorials and this was by the easiest method and explanation was great. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you for watching!! Glad it helped you.
Fantastic ! I followed this process but one word of caution, if you use the topsider, the seals will swell after use if you don't clean them. I ended up spraying them down with brake clean and that did the trick. Thank you so much for such a great process video. Much appreciated.
Great tip! Thank you for watching. I am glad the video helped.
Nice job on this. Very easy to follow.
You are welcome, thank you for watching our channel.
Thank you very much for such a complete and well explained video!
I hope it helped. Thank you for your kind comments and thank you for watching our channel. ✌🏼
Most excellent video brother. Detailed and well thought out. Much appreciated and thanks.
Very glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching our channel. 😎✌🏼
Thank you for thoroughly explaining in detail 😊
You are welcome! Thank you for watching our channel! 😎✌🏼
Great expo. I'll follow it soon. Thank you.
Awesome! Be safe and thank you for watching. 😎✌🏼
Thanks so much. Really clear directions!!
Thank you for watching. Safety first!
😎✌🏼
Thanks for the awesome video! your a money saver.
Great! Glad it helped! Thank you for watching! ✌🏼
I bought a new pan with a drain plug and just on the old pan since I was going to throw it away drilled a hole in it to let it drain out fluid carefully not to drill to deep.
Sounds great, thank you for sharing. Makes draining it easier so there is less of a mess when you remove the pan, change the gasket & filter and clean the magnet for inspection. I am not sure why they designed it this way without the drain plug, unless it is to ensure people don't just drain the transmission fluid, but also remove the pan to do all the above mentioned. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the video. I just did mine and it seems I had almost no clearance between the exhaust pipe and the pan when removing. It didn't come out as easily as yours did in the video. I tried many angles. When jacking up the transfer case, the exhaust jacked up too so the clearance didn't change between the pip and the pan. I had to remove the gasket before I could slide out the pan.... with some scraping. I then had to slide the pan in first without the gasket... again with some scraping, and then add the gasket to the pan after I got it underneath where it needed to be before bolting it. I hope it doesn't leak. It was really hard to get the gasket in place. What a pain. I swear these engineers do think about routine maintenance at all.
Thank you for watching. Was yours a 2-door? Can you share the result? I like the molded rubber gasket since it fits around the edge with minimal movement. We love the feedback!
@@JohnsJeepGarage It's a 2013 4 door Rubicon with W5A580 transmission. It's all stock and the old pan I took out was the original. The new pan was an aftermarket which seems to be identical dimensions. I got it all done. Don't see any leaks yet so hopefully it is all good now. The design engineers really should take into consideration doing routine maintenance. It seems they could have easily design the exhaust with a little more clearance. It's kind of a pet peeve of mine when they make it more difficult than it should be for no reason. Your video was great and helped a lot, so thanks :)
I am glad it helped. Thank you for watching. You can find us on Twitter too.
Ive seen in another video the guy loosen up the exhaust crossover pipe joint to get extra room cuz he had similar issue
Great video...thanks a lot!
I am glad it helped. Thank you for watching our channel! ✌🏼
I would love one of your stickers....I will be doing this job very soon on my 14 JK
Can you send me a private message on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook? That way no one sees your address and I will send you a sticker. On Twitter, I have connected with a few Jeepers all over the world. My sticker is in the Czech Republic, Finland, South Africa, Canada, Alaska, and throughout the United States. Just connect with me on one of those formats and I will ensure you get a sticker. Thank you for watching. ✌🏼
@@JohnsJeepGarage I just sent you my address on Facebook. I don't use Twitter.
@@JohnsJeepGarage Can I have one too ?
Thank you. Sending it after 12/26.
Can you reach out via Twitter, Facebook or Instagram with your name and address.
How do you check transmission fluid level?
I change on my transmission also the electrical adapter.
Look on the video start on the 19:85 time mark. Maybe this will help. There is a cold fill mark and a hot fill mark.
Does the auto transmission not have a drain plug like the manual? 7-9 Ftlb for those screws is 84 inlb. Seems high.
No drain plug for the auto. Unless you buy aftermarket. Yes, the torque is correct. Thank you for watching.
Question. Lots of talk out there about doing the transmission fluid change at 60k for automatic transmission. However, when you reference the service manual (I have a 2014 JK), it’s recommended to do the service at 60k miles when the jeep is used for specific uses. If not these uses, then it’s recommended to do the service at 10 years or 120k miles, whichever comes first. So could you do it at 60k? I suppose. But again the manual calls for 120k or 10 years.
Great question… so at least you know between 60-120K miles. Big range! If you drive in harsh environments then do it earlier, but if you are a standard driver, you have at least until 120K. How do you drive your Jeep? If you are average early doesn’t hurt! Plan it at 90-100. If you are towing and it aggressive terrain, do it at 60-80.
Running a drain-and-fill on my 2015 JK NAG1 transmission at about every 40k miles;
Is there any risk of damaging the transfer case or other components when jacking it up? I wasn’t aware I would have to do that. Seems like a design flaw.
Good question- Our videos show you how we access this area. We only lift it slightly approx 1.5-2 inches (slowly). This is needed for us to get access to those last 2 bolts. If you do a search on jacking up the transfer case, you will find this to be a common method used. We wouldn’t do it if we didn’t have to but please share if you find another method. We enjoy learning other methods and always look to improve. There is a range of movement in the system so we do not believe with our method damages the system but risk is always possible. Follow up with a professional service provider on any alternative ways to access those bolts.
How is that rubber gasket working for you? I did a transmission fluid change in my jeep jku using duralast rubber gasket from autozone but I seem to have oil leak around the pan.
Thank you for watching! I have not had an issue with it. When you take it off, look at it to see if there are any defects or pinch points. Obviously I cannot say this is anything to do with your leak, but my experience is when you put the pan on ensuring you’re tightening the bolts securely, in an offset pattern (like you do lug nuts on a car tire) to ensure its evenly tightened around the pan. Ensuring you do not over tighten it which can create a pinch and thinner area of the gasket.
When I do see issues that occur I really do take the time to do a breakdown analysis or inspection to see what potentially occurred. I’d be interested to learn from you on what you find.
@John’s Jeep Garage ok I will look into it and see what the out comes it. I might order the OEM gasket. I will let you know. Thanks!
Thank you and also thank you for watching.
I got one of your stickers . Thank you
Awesome! Thank you! Thank you for watching our videos, if you have not yet please subscribe and we will have a lot of new content coming soon. Thank you again.
A drain plug would help.
Unfortunately they don't exist unless you swap it for an aftermarket pan.
I have a 2014 jku with 120k i am new owner will it be safe to change oil on filter on the transmission ???
As a new owner of a Jeep, I would suggest bringing it to a professional service provider that can inspect the condition of your Jeep and do the necessary maintenance. Your owners manual would say it is time to change your transmission fluid and filter. Your transmission is a vital part of your Jeep and the work should be done by a certified mechanic.
Will this be effective in changing out my fluid that has water in it?
No it will not. If you have water in your transmission then my suggestion is for you to see a service provider and first determine how water got into your transmission. I would guess it to be coolant that possibly entered through a crack in the housing or possible gasket failure. Addressing the issue of the root cause of the water is important, then an inspection of your transmission and fluid flush by a service provider would be next. May I ask if you know the cause of the water and transmission mix?
I’ve read that if the transmission oil hasn’t been changed and you are at 200k miles, to not bother changing it or there is a big possibility that your tranny will damage. What’s your opinion?
My opinion… change it. The reason that may be said is that damaged has already occurred and new fluid may make it slip but forced deterioration is occurring by not changing it. If it starts to slip after changing it then get a professional help. Repairs will need to be made but the repairs are not because you have new fluid. It already has issue that will soon fail. A fluid change doesn’t change the entire system, it gets the build up pre filter and cleans the pan and magnet. A new filter and fluid that replaces what was lost is not a full change out. Follow up with your service provider.
Here is a related link referencing what you were sharing.
krakenautorepair.com/can-changing-your-transmission-fluid-too-late-cause-damage/
Does the transmission fluid on the jeep need to be warmed up or cold when it’s being pumped and drained?
Yes- Look at timestamp 3:10 -3:20 for the temperature range, and look again at timestamp 4:27 for how we warmed up the transmission fluid. We tried to target around 175°. This is because we use the fluid extractor. Realize that if you are just removing the pan and draining from there, you must use caution due to it being at that temperature. If that is your method, then I would suggest not warming it up to that temperature. A professional service provider should have necessary safety precautions in place. Thank you for watching.
So whole point is just to change the filter correct? Oil getting 4/10 quarts doesn’t seem like it would be an effective fluid change.
There are two preventative maintenance aspects of transmission fluid changes, 1) changing of the filter, transmission fluid and gasket, or 2) a complete transmission fluid flush. This video is not the flush. In this preventative maintenance step, the goal is to replace the filter, drain what is in the pan, the fill tube and lower transmission. Remember what is in the pan, did not pass through the filter. With this step you inspect the fluid, clean the pan where particulates settle and attach to the magnet, clean the magnet and inspect to see if you need to do a deeper flush / assessment based on your findings. There is added fluid held in your torque converter and transmission system, but cleaning the pan, magnet and filter is all that is needed for this step in the process with replacement of the partial fluid drained. A flush has its risks as well. It can cause fluid to flow the opposite way, and not through the filter and send debris that gets dislodged the opposite way of the flow in your transmission. A flushing machine may be used to prevent this at a higher cost. You get most of what you want with the fluid change (partial) procedure. You are correct, you are not changing the entire fluid in the transmission, but you are changing 4-5 quarts. For a Jeep Wrangler JK - as long as you don't drive it like a Uber or Taxi or frequent trailer towing, you can change the fluid at 120,000 miles, if you do more aggressive driving, it is recommended at 60,000. You can gauge it somewhere between if needed. Inspection is the key, if you have identified issues, you need to take it to a service provider who can help you determine what level of service you need, even transmission repair or complete flush. Thank you for watching.
@@JohnsJeepGarage awesome thanks. plan on doing mine coming up on 50k miles. so basically main point is to change filter and remove sludge on pan. I believe jeep says atf4 is technically 'lifetime' fluid. just wish they installed a drain
Yes. You must use "ATF +4" Transmission Fluid. Don't worry about brand, the formulation for ATF+4 will meet standard requirements. Just to summarize, replace the filter, the fluid you removed, clean the pan and the magnet and the pan gasket. Your call on when you do it but event the early recommendation is 60,000 miles. Thank you again for watching.
Geaux tigers
💜💛✌🏼 Thank you for watching!
this is not a complete flush!!!!!! torque ????????
On the video, the torque specs are both written, and verbally shared at time stamp 19:19. The title of this video did not say a flush and standards in maintenance operations and repair are defined the same when doing a pan drop, filter and gasket change. This is not a complete fluid change. A complete fluid change would indicate a complete flush on the scope. That is why there are two separate type of changes when you go to a maintenance service center. A complete drain and flush which includes everything including the torque converter is different than a pan drop, which is specifically about this video.
No flush is necessary; torque is in your service manual, no whining, please; just do a drain and fill and do it every few miles (you decide); keep in mind that transmission-fluid color is not a gauge of the fluid's condition.
Good video. Thank you!
Thank you for watching! I am glad the video helped. 😎✌🏼