I tend to strip one end, put it in the socket, lay the wire flat along the path I want, clip about 6-7mm (0.25-0.3 inches) longer than the second socket distance, strip that end, and plug it into the second socket. Skips a bit of arithmetic and the calipers, and is slightly faster. Of course for high frequency stuff I tend to dead bug it on copper clad, solderless breadboard parasitics are ruinous.
7:02 you covered the breadboard with your head. What kind of shenanigans were you trying to hide? I knew you were cheating on those 90° bends! ;) In all seriousness though, great video. Thanks for sharing. :)
Wild project idea for someone: Build a CNC breadboard wire cutting machine. You enter the required length, number of bends etc. and it cuts and strips a perfect piece of wire for you.
Thanks, also, can I ask which brand and type of wire you like using? I'm from the UK and I'm in my 40s, so when I was a kid we really didn't use solderless breadboards, so I have little to no experience with them. Almost everything I have built from then until now (that wasn't an etched at home or a professional PCB) was made with Veroboard (stripboard), which meant cutting tracks on the board with a cutter and soldering jumpers between the tracks, I'm really quick with Veroboard and a cutter, but slow and clumsy with solderless breadboards. Most of my colleagues from the US are not too familiar with it and those who know of it completely discount it and say it is terrible, they are familiar with perfboard and wire-wrap, but not with Veroboard that has tracks. Have you ever tried Veroboard?
I've tried Veroboard -- here in the States the canonical brand was Vectorbord. They were always hideously expensive for a thing you could only use once. I used a few, but I mainly used breadboards. I've recently done some SMD prototyping on what's essentially Vectorbord, except now you can get your own PCBs made for cheap from China. As for wire, I always use solid core, 22 AWG, sometimes called "hookup wire". The brands are Remington and NTE, but wire is wire. Anything that is solid 22 AWG will do. I have a lot of colors, but you really want a minimum of three: red, black, and any other color (except white). It's good to have another prototyping technique, but your favorite technique will always be the best :D BTW, I the Adafruit breadboards are the good kind, not the crap you get for USD 1- each. Check out Julian Ilett's comparison here: ua-cam.com/video/VerbEZtACwQ/v-deo.html
@@yrath5034 FWIW, the 3M breadboards are the gold standard. They’re quite expensive, but they last forever. The first time inserting a pin into a hole is VERY stiff, but later insertions are easier, but they always stay stiff enough to make good contact, unlike many el-cheapo breadboards. FYI, the 3M breadboards are manufactured by a little company called Assembly Specialist, Inc. If you’re in USA, you can order direct from them and save a bit of money.
Got any recommendation for good breadboard or wire gage etc? I got a few breadboard but I find the holes to be a bit too tight for my liking. i often need to use pliers otherwise I just bend the wires. the hole for the power are quite loose though. stuff can easily get disconnected
Tight breadboards are better electrically. What I do is to cut wires and component leads on the diagonal so that the tapered ends can pry the contacts apart better. Makes insertion much easier.
@@tookitogo The problem I have is typically electronic pieces tend to bend. I can shorten their legs, but it makes them harder to handle and it ofc can't be reversed,
@@Pac0Master trim them on the diagonal to make a point (you aren’t removing much length, and it makes a big difference), and continue to use small flat-jaw pliers or very strong tweezers to insert them. On parts with kinda wide, flat legs (like in TO-220 cases), use flat-jaw pliers to twist the leads 90°
Great video - the easy way to achieve a clean layout. Suggestion : instead of counting holes why simply : 1) note the column numbers at end and start and subtract 2) simply put the tip of the caliper jaws at the desired holes and you do not even care about the actual length in inches 3) a cheap plastic caliper would do. all you need is a something that slides and locks at a set position. Of course this would not work for wires following a bent path. But these should be the exception. By the way, I did see negative reviews on Amazon about the stripper you use. It can never be clear if they come from people who simply abused the tool or if the complaints are justified. Regards
The biggest problem is that you'll end up with 100's if not 1,000's of very specific cuts of wire that will only bridge two points at a fixed proximity or you end up cutting them even shorter to re-use and so on. It's fine if you plan to keep your prototypes on breadboard forever but not sure why I'd want to do that. Jumper wires may not be pretty but they can be re-used without much restriction...I'd argue that even a neatly wired breadboarded circuit isn't as pretty or neat as a PCB so why use breadboard at all? I get that it's probably easier to work with in the long run but for prototyping it seems a bit overkill and wasteful. ETA: I sometimes will twist jumpers together between connections to keep them grouped if I can, for smaller jumps I'll often tie large, loose loops in smaller jumpers just to keep them out of the way and it can be made to look quite neat if done carefully. I think I'd rather use small cable-ties to keep my wiring neat than go this this extent which I've used before, they're cheap and cheerful and really quite useful, when you're done - snip 'em off and you're good.
I tend to strip one end, put it in the socket, lay the wire flat along the path I want, clip about 6-7mm (0.25-0.3 inches) longer than the second socket distance, strip that end, and plug it into the second socket. Skips a bit of arithmetic and the calipers, and is slightly faster. Of course for high frequency stuff I tend to dead bug it on copper clad, solderless breadboard parasitics are ruinous.
Chip Tip #6: Measure. Thanks buddy, love the vids.
Oh my God I love your videos. I've binge watched all chip tips from one to here
Great video. Good to know for newbies like me.
Thanks.
7:02 you covered the breadboard with your head. What kind of shenanigans were you trying to hide? I knew you were cheating on those 90° bends! ;)
In all seriousness though, great video. Thanks for sharing. :)
Hot tip: breathing on your wires make them bend easier.
I'm seriously surprised there is no amazon affiliate link to the Knipex Strippers in the description...
I am German. You get a big LIKE!
"Don't you want one of these now?"
Yes. Do you have an Amazon link?
Otherwise, I'll go searching for it. Thanks!
The link is under my video on strippers: ua-cam.com/video/JKBqFEucEfg/v-deo.html
That intro got me lol
Wild project idea for someone: Build a CNC breadboard wire cutting machine. You enter the required length, number of bends etc. and it cuts and strips a perfect piece of wire for you.
ua-cam.com/video/OKB_-fYj-IU/v-deo.html
@@erikr007 OMFG!!!!
22 gauge solid tined ?
To go up two levels you need 0.1" for each side, so add 0.2
Do you have any suggestions for wiring up the dats 8 pins between DIPs?
Digital project witch CPU not work on breadboards :(
Under rated video
Thanks for your videos! by the way, which brand of breadboards do you use? Some of the ones I have bought are awful.
yrath I get mine from Adafruit.
Thanks, also, can I ask which brand and type of wire you like using? I'm from the UK and I'm in my 40s, so when I was a kid we really didn't use solderless breadboards, so I have little to no experience with them. Almost everything I have built from then until now (that wasn't an etched at home or a professional PCB) was made with Veroboard (stripboard), which meant cutting tracks on the board with a cutter and soldering jumpers between the tracks, I'm really quick with Veroboard and a cutter, but slow and clumsy with solderless breadboards. Most of my colleagues from the US are not too familiar with it and those who know of it completely discount it and say it is terrible, they are familiar with perfboard and wire-wrap, but not with Veroboard that has tracks. Have you ever tried Veroboard?
I've tried Veroboard -- here in the States the canonical brand was Vectorbord. They were always hideously expensive for a thing you could only use once. I used a few, but I mainly used breadboards. I've recently done some SMD prototyping on what's essentially Vectorbord, except now you can get your own PCBs made for cheap from China. As for wire, I always use solid core, 22 AWG, sometimes called "hookup wire". The brands are Remington and NTE, but wire is wire. Anything that is solid 22 AWG will do. I have a lot of colors, but you really want a minimum of three: red, black, and any other color (except white). It's good to have another prototyping technique, but your favorite technique will always be the best :D BTW, I the Adafruit breadboards are the good kind, not the crap you get for USD 1- each. Check out Julian Ilett's comparison here: ua-cam.com/video/VerbEZtACwQ/v-deo.html
@@yrath5034 FWIW, the 3M breadboards are the gold standard. They’re quite expensive, but they last forever. The first time inserting a pin into a hole is VERY stiff, but later insertions are easier, but they always stay stiff enough to make good contact, unlike many el-cheapo breadboards. FYI, the 3M breadboards are manufactured by a little company called Assembly Specialist, Inc. If you’re in USA, you can order direct from them and save a bit of money.
And if he is still alive, he is still measuring wires to this very day.
Got any recommendation for good breadboard or wire gage etc?
I got a few breadboard but I find the holes to be a bit too tight for my liking.
i often need to use pliers otherwise I just bend the wires.
the hole for the power are quite loose though. stuff can easily get disconnected
I like to use 22 AWG wire and breadboard# BKGS-830-ND from Digi-Key.
Tight breadboards are better electrically. What I do is to cut wires and component leads on the diagonal so that the tapered ends can pry the contacts apart better. Makes insertion much easier.
@@tookitogo
The problem I have is typically electronic pieces tend to bend.
I can shorten their legs, but it makes them harder to handle and it ofc can't be reversed,
@@Pac0Master trim them on the diagonal to make a point (you aren’t removing much length, and it makes a big difference), and continue to use small flat-jaw pliers or very strong tweezers to insert them. On parts with kinda wide, flat legs (like in TO-220 cases), use flat-jaw pliers to twist the leads 90°
@@tookitogo
Yeah, the pliers are pretty much essential at this point.
Do you do contract work? And if so how do I contact you?
Nope, sorry, I don't do work for hire.
Great video - the easy way to achieve a clean layout.
Suggestion : instead of counting holes why simply :
1) note the column numbers at end and start and subtract
2) simply put the tip of the caliper jaws at the desired holes and you do not even care about the actual length in inches
3) a cheap plastic caliper would do. all you need is a something that slides and locks at a set position.
Of course this would not work for wires following a bent path. But these should be the exception.
By the way, I did see negative reviews on Amazon about the stripper you use. It can never be clear if they come from people who simply abused the tool or if the complaints are justified.
Regards
I have no music and I can't sing
Or just build one of these machines: ua-cam.com/video/OKB_-fYj-IU/v-deo.html
The biggest problem is that you'll end up with 100's if not 1,000's of very specific cuts of wire that will only bridge two points at a fixed proximity or you end up cutting them even shorter to re-use and so on.
It's fine if you plan to keep your prototypes on breadboard forever but not sure why I'd want to do that. Jumper wires may not be pretty but they can be re-used without much restriction...I'd argue that even a neatly wired breadboarded circuit isn't as pretty or neat as a PCB so why use breadboard at all?
I get that it's probably easier to work with in the long run but for prototyping it seems a bit overkill and wasteful.
ETA: I sometimes will twist jumpers together between connections to keep them grouped if I can, for smaller jumps I'll often tie large, loose loops in smaller jumpers just to keep them out of the way and it can be made to look quite neat if done carefully.
I think I'd rather use small cable-ties to keep my wiring neat than go this this extent which I've used before, they're cheap and cheerful and really quite useful, when you're done - snip 'em off and you're good.