Thanks a lot. Would you please tell me how could I identify a 2 pin microswitch either it's a normal closed ( nc) OR normally opened (no) by reading the printed circuit diagram on the back of the switch. Your reply is appreciated.
Nicely presented video thanks. One sobering aspect of these switches is that the contact resistance of a healthy switch is going to be just a few milliohms. Power dissipated in the switch is current x current x resistance or I*I*R so 15A x 15A x 0.01 ohm = 2.25W. Enough to make the switch run quite hot. I've just seen one of these switches fail in a shower. Once the switch contacts get pitted or oxidised such that they increase the contact resistance just slightly then thermal runaway occurs very rapidly. The contact resistance goes up with temperature (this is basic physics) and once this kicks off the switch will soon get so hot it will emit sparks and break down rapidly and quite spectacularly. I don't think you can test those switches adequately with a multimeter in this respect. My advice to anyone is to replace these switches every few years or so as a matter of course even if they still seem to be working OK. When they fail it is quite scary if you are the person taking the shower at the time!
Hi mate , thanks for the videos! I have a 2 year old Electrolux instant shower that doesnt power up... Water is running through it but there is no heating. The switch outside of the bathroom that sends current to the instant shower works though. Where do you think I should focus my efforts to solve this problem? Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I was able to fix a Triton Aquatronic 4 which has the odd behaviour of making a kettle boiling sound for a few moments after switching off caused by a failed microswitch that is letting power flow into the heating elements making it run very warm even switched off. The problem is the microswitch is integrated to the Power PCB so I had to replace the whole PCB which cost a fortune, it could be cheaper for someone who can do repairs at PCB level. Lesson learned here is to not buy a touch control or power/temperature buttons based electric shower that uses a PCB. Better stick to a simple mechanical/knob controlled shower as you can replace the microswitch more cheaply and easily.
Thanks so much for taking the time to create and upload this demo . You are a good man .
Very informative and well thought out ,thank you very much
Thanks a lot.
Would you please tell me how could I identify a 2 pin microswitch either it's a normal closed ( nc) OR normally opened (no) by reading the printed circuit diagram on the back of the switch.
Your reply is appreciated.
Nicely presented video thanks. One sobering aspect of these switches is that the contact resistance of a healthy switch is going to be just a few milliohms. Power dissipated in the switch is current x current x resistance or I*I*R so 15A x 15A x 0.01 ohm = 2.25W. Enough to make the switch run quite hot. I've just seen one of these switches fail in a shower. Once the switch contacts get pitted or oxidised such that they increase the contact resistance just slightly then thermal runaway occurs very rapidly. The contact resistance goes up with temperature (this is basic physics) and once this kicks off the switch will soon get so hot it will emit sparks and break down rapidly and quite spectacularly. I don't think you can test those switches adequately with a multimeter in this respect. My advice to anyone is to replace these switches every few years or so as a matter of course even if they still seem to be working OK. When they fail it is quite scary if you are the person taking the shower at the time!
Hi mate , thanks for the videos!
I have a 2 year old Electrolux instant shower that doesnt power up... Water is running through it but there is no heating.
The switch outside of the bathroom that sends current to the instant shower works though.
Where do you think I should focus my efforts to solve this problem?
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I was able to fix a Triton Aquatronic 4 which has the odd behaviour of making a kettle boiling sound for a few moments after switching off caused by a failed microswitch that is letting power flow into the heating elements making it run very warm even switched off. The problem is the microswitch is integrated to the Power PCB so I had to replace the whole PCB which cost a fortune, it could be cheaper for someone who can do repairs at PCB level.
Lesson learned here is to not buy a touch control or power/temperature buttons based electric shower that uses a PCB. Better stick to a simple mechanical/knob controlled shower as you can replace the microswitch more cheaply and easily.
I have a Mira alero shower that cuts off shower when showering but goes on again when you press button on can you help please
Mira max sport 10.8kw? Has developed an extended cool down flow after switching off, any comments please, regards John
Thank you 😊
Thank you, it worked
Expression shower impossible to remove 2 back screws holding microswitches who knows how,.
My electric shower when turned on there is no water even though all the lights are on.
Solenoids gone.