You can get an R-45 insulated wall with two walls each built with 2x4 framing and an air gap between each wall for mechanical and each wall insulated with closed cell insulation. The 2x4s are way lower cost than this video.
I have opened walls that have been taped for twenty years or so and for the most part the tape stills look well bonded. The tape that was on the market at the time was not made for that particular use but still held up very well. A house I built in 1990 had foam insulation under the slab and basement walls. At the time we only used a small amount of foam when compared to the amounts that are used today in home construction. Even still the impact on energy consumption was huge. We are planning to build one more home for ourselves and plan on using the most economical methods. I suspect this will cost use very little extra when compared to standard home designs. I would rather place a great deal of insulation in place of a very expensive heating plant. We will trade a huge heat plant for insulation in effect. Our electric system will be built around a future solar PV and hot water system. Something I plane on installing after the house is done. The house will work very effectively without solar energy input but the addition of such a system will bring the house up to the next level. The well will use a soft start pump. Yet the heating system will be basic and have no blower on the heat plant. Simply put heating by convection. Right now all our cooking is done by an induction cook top. I cannot think of a better way to cook than induction. All our lighting is LED and that works very well.
House was built in 1960. Around 74 or so, I participated in a rebuild. We doubled the first floor insulation. Put a second story on the house - 3 levels now. Throughout it - we doubled all the insul. old oil furnace, now heat pumps, for last 25 yrs. The pumps were $1000 each time they were purchased - out of Montreal. I visited my dad last week and he still has the most efficient house - using the least amount of energy - of 100 homes around him. And he has 3 levels - a 1/3 more living space - compared to all the others. My next rebuild was a slab on grade . 1950 house redone @ 1990 or so. All windows were triple L E of the day.. The walls were 12 inches after. Slab insulated. Attic had 30 inches of blown styro. R - crazy #. Cut the power bill by 1/2 in 6 weeks work. I built it with R2000 insulation levels - a decade before. New Construct - went to heat pump - cut energy by 1/2 - with just that. Doing the design on my last house. 30 yrs life. Building my first Passive Home. The issue I see - is making the build details simple - so what I want can be built by any framer, but with time to work myself - I see the job as challenging and so rewarding. And the framer gets to learn how to be one of the best.
Thanks for the excellent video guys, and congrats for your amazing work. I have one question: how one can achieve high indoor air quality with using OSB, which utilizes formaldehyde which causes respiratory problems, such as lung cancer? Is there a different wall panel system to avoid OSB? Thanks
My concern is the HVR. It needs to operate 24/7 to provide proper ventilation of the house to prevent humidity and condensation inside the home. If you have a power failure for an extended period of time, the HRV will not be operating to provide the needed ventilation. So I'm assuming you will also need to have a battery backup or a backup generator for the HRC to keep it in operation during power outages. Any cooking, hot showers, any time you open a door or window, you will be allowing humidity to enter the home. So you need to be able to continuously ventilate the house. I do understand the HRC will provide the ventilation, but Power outages is the main concern. Or maybe the system breaks down in time. The time it takes to get it back up and running, moisture and condensation will be building up inside the house with no natural way to ventilate it out being the envelope is completely sealed.
You can ventilate the house using the windows. HRV or ERV doesn’t dehumidify. You need a separate dehumidifier or humidifiers depending on where you are. Western Canada is mostly dry except Vancouver / Vancouver Island & Eastern Canada is Humid.
The passive house standard is nice but sometimes lead to people putting a foot of foam underneath the slab to reach a target metric which is absurd. A less expensive and near equally green building option is net zero. Instead of larcen trusses on the wall you can get away with 4 to 6 inches of foam or mineral wool affixed to the walls. This is far cheaper to construct this way. Also do away with most of the tapes and use fluid applied wrb and flashing or self adhered wrb membrane with fluid applied flashing. Solar is getting so cheap its crazy not to use it especially with the $1 per watt rebate you get in Nova Scotia
Yeah. It's possible to go overboard insulating. A foot of foam (R60+) is absurd. That was someone with money to burn and bad advice. But that's the thing with Passive House. There's many, MANY ways to arrive at the same ultimate goal. It's just that some are smarter than others.
Would be interesting to see some of the calculations done for the building physics here. Whenever I watch these construction videos from North America (mainly U.S and Canada) to me there's always strange things about how some of the things are constructed and what materials are being used.
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Sincere Gannon Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Good to see the building of a new house. Homestead Custom Carpentry also provides home renovation services in Red Deer. The owners of Homestead take their work and will not walk away from a job incomplete or with the client left unsatisfied. It’s their Homestead quality guarantee: honest quotes and honest work.
Port Alberni's first Passive house in the Heart of Vancouver Island, to date we have 30 individual detailed videos from the foundations up, Search google for seumas2 in youtube once opened go to the top and click on videos, the videos will be in reverse order, more as the build progresses. We never used tyvek or OSB, used moisture and air barriers products from EU, double wall 2X4 DK studs, 20 ins thick, Rockwool insulation R 80 walls ceiling R80, pad R55, triple glazing R 7.5, large windows facing South, small facing North, 1/2in plywood sheating, no air leakage, all joints and air infiltration taped, widow wells splayed at 45 degrees on the outside (wide angle view) heat exchanger (EU) heat pump hot water heater, wiring placed in the double wall cavity ( no drill holes in the studs, dropped ceiling allows the same, moisture barrier placed 1/3 distance from the from the interior wall, for further details view the videos. Wheel chair accessible, electrical switches one foot lower and the power plugs placed 4ins higher for that reason, Stay tuned as the build progress to the finish stage producing other 12 plus videos. slainte mhath
What's the carbon footprint of the house with all of those extra building materials? Also, obviously no one design is perfect, but is a passive solar house that also has low environmental impact even possible with all of that insulation and concrete? Seems hard to marry low environmental impact and carbon footprint with passive?
I have been building passive solar and super insulated for 35 years. This is a truly superior house and construction,,, nearly,, all of it I compliment. The house is too well sealed. People fart, exhale, showers and pasta on the stove,,,, never lose sight of the fact people breathe. That house, as constructed in the video must have an air to air heat exchanger. I would NEVER use a particle board, OSB, or any manufactured wood product (formaldehyde) only some plywoods, maybe in a house that well sealed. Furniture has formaldehyde, carpeting out gases, cabinets,, the composite sink in the bath,, you are going to be breathing the plastic in the shower curtain, and the flameproof coating on your kid's jammies is going to be dangerous. People breathe. You can spend an extra 5 grand tightening a house,,, and then you must spend another 5 grand on the electrically run air to air heat exchanger. And moisture management. In Nova Scotia,, I don't think this is going to be a problem TODAY,, but,, From direct experience, I would never put Tyvek on top of OSB. Never. A better, a much better membrane under siding is 30# or better yet, 45# felt. Felt allows vapour to pass easily,, I have never seen condensation on the inside of a felt barrier. I HAVE seen condensation accumulation on the inside of Tyvek. And chronic condensation on the inside of Tyvek,, will destroy OSB,, and what ir does not destroy,, it will mold. What I REALLY liked about this build,, was the flawless poly barrier between the home and the gases of the soil,, radon, methane, etc. I'm gonna do that in my next build.
"The house is too well sealed." No. No it isn't. The old notion of "it has to breathe" is simply uncontrolled ventilation. You don't want that. Because uncontrolled ventilation means uncontrolled heating and cooling. This is why you have an HRV/ERV unit with controlled mechanical ventilation. "Must have an air to air heat exchanger." Which is part of what an HRV/ERV does. Also, the issues with offgassing/VOCs is known. You have choices there as well. Go with finishes with low VOC content. Adjust your HRV/ERV for higher air exchange per hour for a period to help remove the offgassing. You get problems in houses where you have recirculation of stale air. Also, Tyvek is an air barrier, but vapor open. And if you've seen condensation on the inside of Tyvek, you're looking at a faulty wall assembly. Additionally, even if you have said condensation, if the wall assembly has a path to drying in a timely manner, you won't see degradation of the sheathing. It's when the wall is left damp for long periods and moisture stops migration out of the sheathing that you have issues.
It looks like the basement only has a water barrier on the inside. Wouldn't it be bad if moisture gets in between the ICF cracks? Could it damage the concrete or result in mold? Matt Risinger raises this point in h is ICF video: ua-cam.com/video/MRipzKkeQik/v-deo.html
JohnsRadios that all depends someone could build a very efficient house with quality products and not meet "passive" guildlines due to certain products being used but the cost and the style of the "passive" products couldnt be justified doesnt mean you can be more efficient in building though.
07:30 "Passive houses really aren't all that different from the houses you are used to....." Hmm. How about concrete/block houses? They're pretty much different than this type of houses: stronger winds cannot blow them away, floods cannot push them away, cyclones/tornadoes can do much less damage to them, they're more private (you have to enter inside to put eavesdropping gadgets) and so on. Are these type of houses all that? Flood resistant? Like floods that are happening often and having in mind the climate changes more and more floods will be. Eavesdropping resistance? Soundproof resistance? Privacy degree? How about bigger windows? Except, the fast building, energy efficient (how much, that's a question since you will have to use that gadget for ventilation which works on electricity andwillhaveto workday and night)...........what other benefits have these houses? Are they low maintenance costly? How long will they withstand? P.S. : a house that is made from wood, nails, duct tape and "insulation " as wool in the walls......can you call that a house or "house of cards"?
I can't believe you are using aspenite and not 5/8 plywood. You are doing all this extra work but still cheaping out on material. I guarantee you from experience once it gets wet it will attract insects and rot
Properly engineered wall assemblies simply don't have these issues. Plywood, OSB, etc. The face layer of OSB can withstand decades of periodic damp on the face and not break down or rot. It's when the ends get damn, stay damp, and swell that you begin to have problems. Hence the seam taping.
It really depends. Because the interior finishes can vastly skew the price of a home. Going with super high dollar paint? Granite? Oak/Mahogany cabinets, real wood floors, etc, etc, etc? The overall percentage for the extra insulation, the extra materials, and the detailing labor will be smaller. Go with vinyl tile, Ikea cabinets and laminate countertop? The percentage will be larger. In a 2K sq/ft home, insulation will run you around $0.65-$1.20/sq foot for a conventional job. Add in 6 hours of labor at $150-300/hour. With better detailing, skew higher on the labor. Super-insulation will roughly double your materials cost and labor. Figure slightly over median for insulation and just call it a buck a square foot. And figure VERY well detailed work at $300/hour. You're talking $2000 in insulation and $1800 in labor. So about $3800 out of a house worth several hundred thousand dollars. This'll get you a well insulated house somewhat above code level. For a super-insulated house, you'll pay out about $7600. And that's an estimate on the high side. Also, if you're even MILDLY "handy", much of this is stuff that can be DIY'ed to save money.
It depends, but we usually add 10%-20% in Korea. Please consider that Korea has a rather harsh climate. It's very hot and wet in summer and bloody cold and dry in winter.
Using a piece of foam to adhere tape seems like a good idea, but they leave behind microplastics everywhere... Stop making microplastic pollution everywhere!
Nope. Spray foam has it's place. But it's not environmentally friendly, expensive, and can have offgassing issues. Also, spray foam is, essentially PERMANENT. YES, you can tear it out. But the labor to do so makes simply replacing the assembly WHOLESALE far easier. So lots of builders avoid spray foam in new construction. You'll see a lot higher utilization in retrofits.
Saving energy saves money month after month. Why give your money to the utility company. Every new home and retrofit needs to be energy efficient. There is a Climate Crisis. WE need Climate Action.
The Magnificent Adamic-man. ... Cush (Greek: Ethiopia), means sun-burnt Phoenicians described by the Greeks, as fair-haired, fair-skinned people Persia means Lord of the Aryans now renamed IRAN 12 Tribes - Lamentations 4:7 (i)ssac's Sons / Saxons / Anglo-Saxons / Europe / Australia / New Zealand / North America / First World
This of course is not the only way to construct a passive house. there are many varieties of wall and roof assemblies that one can choose from. I also had my doubts as to the longevity of the tape so when i had my last house built i had 14 cm T&G wood fiber insulation boards installed on the outside of 14 cm solid wood walls with a final layer of inch and a half T&G wood fiber sarking board . The T&G joints add extra security if the tape fails .
These aren't your old sealing tapes and duct tape of yesteryear. The adhesives and the backers on these, provided you properly apply them, and limit their UV exposure, WILL last 50 years, if not more.
This looks like a great build (except for the OSB). Building passive or getting as close as you can to passive is always a good idea, but if I may be so bold, the are better ways... CruxHomes.com
Better ? Gimmicky at best . The website states that the arches act AS a thermal bridge. This must be poor editing or massive ignorance on the subject of passivhaus . You want to STOP thermal bridging not encourage it . Also what kind of insulation are you using ?
nice try. We can provide the windows matched with Passive house. The passive house window was aluminum type. certified with PHI. QXL Windows and doors.
@@Skynet_11 Various types of OSB have preservatives in there that off-gas. So you can get things like formaldehyde in the home. Some of it depends on the engineering of your wall and floor assembly. There are low and no VOC options available. Though they generally are more expensive. You can also move to non-wood flooring options (MgO, Concrete, GypCrete, etc) if necessary. Some of it will also depends on the speed of the home's construction, the dry in period, etc. Additionally it also depends on your home's ventilation strategy. If you get one of these "we built this house in a week, here's the keys!" places, yeah. You're going to have offgassing issues, even if every finish in the place is low/no VOC. In a more regular, extended home build, things like decking and sheathing have a chance to breathe for some time before finish layers go over them. Also, in a mechanically ventilated home with good air sealing, you can adjust your air exchange to help ameliorate it.
When you pay more to build this house, when you pay thousands for this additional ventilation system which also costs a lot to install, and when your ventilation system running 24/7 increases your electricity energy consumption by 40-50 %, then you find out using more and paying more, that's it. This just a new marketing trick, people aren't smart and easily manipulated, and construction industry knows this very well.
Killah Priest well, I know of something that may be of interest to you. I'm working with others to bring a passive house product to Canada that is made of pre-fabricated walls that are filled with concrete on site. Very efficient and very sturdy.
Actually 2x6 with exterior larsen trusses and sheathing is VERY sturdy. You have a wall assembly that's 12-16 inches thick with the structural component just to the inside of center. And they're not carrying huge weight. Just insulation. And, as SuperTombarton said. There's other ways to build if you want "sturdy" too. ICF is one way. A COMPLETELY SOLID concrete wall with integral structural webbing,, reinforcement and encased in 4+ inches of foam (in most cases). So there's no detailing the full-wall assembly for airtightness. Because it's already airtight. You just have to pay attention at penetrations (doors, windows, plugs). I've seen a well-detailed ICF home pull a .23 on a blower door test (Passive House standard is .6). I've also seen video of an ICF home that had an SUV crash into it and survive just fine. The exterior facade was damaged, but the actual concrete wall itself was found to be fine after the fact.
You can get an R-45 insulated wall with two walls each built with 2x4 framing and an air gap between each wall for mechanical and each wall insulated with closed cell insulation. The 2x4s are way lower cost than this video.
Thanks, I’m researching a new build.
I have opened walls that have been taped for twenty years or so and for the most part the tape stills look well bonded. The tape that was on the market at the time was not made for that particular use but still held up very well.
A house I built in 1990 had foam insulation under the slab and basement walls. At the time we only used a small amount of foam when compared to the amounts that are used today in home construction. Even still the impact on energy consumption was huge.
We are planning to build one more home for ourselves and plan on using the most economical methods. I suspect this will cost use very little extra when compared to standard home designs. I would rather place a great deal of insulation in place of a very expensive heating plant. We will trade a huge heat plant for insulation in effect. Our electric system will be built around a future solar PV and hot water system. Something I plane on installing after the house is done. The house will work very effectively without solar energy input but the addition of such a system will bring the house up to the next level.
The well will use a soft start pump. Yet the heating system will be basic and have no blower on the heat plant. Simply put heating by convection.
Right now all our cooking is done by an induction cook top. I cannot think of a better way to cook than induction. All our lighting is LED and that works very well.
House was built in 1960. Around 74 or so, I participated in a rebuild. We doubled the first floor insulation. Put a second story on the house - 3 levels now. Throughout it - we doubled all the insul. old oil furnace, now heat pumps, for last 25 yrs. The pumps were $1000 each time they were purchased - out of Montreal. I visited my dad last week and he still has the most efficient house - using the least amount of energy - of 100 homes around him. And he has 3 levels - a 1/3 more living space - compared to all the others.
My next rebuild was a slab on grade . 1950 house redone @ 1990 or so. All windows were triple L E of the day.. The walls were 12 inches after. Slab insulated. Attic had 30 inches of blown styro. R - crazy #.
Cut the power bill by 1/2 in 6 weeks work. I built it with R2000 insulation levels - a decade before.
New Construct - went to heat pump - cut energy by 1/2 - with just that.
Doing the design on my last house. 30 yrs life. Building my first Passive Home. The issue I see - is making the build details simple - so what I want can be built by any framer, but with time to work myself - I see the job as challenging and so rewarding. And the framer gets to learn how to be one of the best.
@@mpccenturion sound like you did your home work.
Thanks for the excellent video guys, and congrats for your amazing work. I have one question: how one can achieve high indoor air quality with using OSB, which utilizes formaldehyde which causes respiratory problems, such as lung cancer? Is there a different wall panel system to avoid OSB? Thanks
My concern is the HVR. It needs to operate 24/7 to provide proper ventilation of the house to prevent humidity and condensation inside the home. If you have a power failure for an extended period of time, the HRV will not be operating to provide the needed ventilation. So I'm assuming you will also need to have a battery backup or a backup generator for the HRC to keep it in operation during power outages. Any cooking, hot showers, any time you open a door or window, you will be allowing humidity to enter the home. So you need to be able to continuously ventilate the house. I do understand the HRC will provide the ventilation, but Power outages is the main concern. Or maybe the system breaks down in time. The time it takes to get it back up and running, moisture and condensation will be building up inside the house with no natural way to ventilate it out being the envelope is completely sealed.
You can ventilate the house using the windows. HRV or ERV doesn’t dehumidify. You need a separate dehumidifier or humidifiers depending on where you are. Western Canada is mostly dry except Vancouver / Vancouver Island & Eastern Canada is Humid.
Can you build a passive house with concrete or masonry for long term lasting? I don't want "tape". I want more durable products.
The passive house standard is nice but sometimes lead to people putting a foot of foam underneath the slab to reach a target metric which is absurd. A less expensive and near equally green building option is net zero. Instead of larcen trusses on the wall you can get away with 4 to 6 inches of foam or mineral wool affixed to the walls. This is far cheaper to construct this way. Also do away with most of the tapes and use fluid applied wrb and flashing or self adhered wrb membrane with fluid applied flashing. Solar is getting so cheap its crazy not to use it especially with the $1 per watt rebate you get in Nova Scotia
Yeah. It's possible to go overboard insulating.
A foot of foam (R60+) is absurd.
That was someone with money to burn and bad advice.
But that's the thing with Passive House. There's many, MANY ways to arrive at the same ultimate goal.
It's just that some are smarter than others.
Is this south facing
Would be interesting to see some of the calculations done for the building physics here. Whenever I watch these construction videos from North America (mainly U.S and Canada) to me there's always strange things about how some of the things are constructed and what materials are being used.
You prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Gianni Donovan Instablaster =)
@Sincere Gannon Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Sincere Gannon it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
@Gianni Donovan No problem :D
Good to see the building of a new house. Homestead Custom Carpentry also provides home renovation services in Red Deer. The owners of Homestead take their work and will not walk away from a job incomplete or with the client left unsatisfied. It’s their Homestead quality guarantee: honest quotes and honest work.
Port Alberni's first Passive house in the Heart of Vancouver Island, to date we have 30 individual detailed videos from the foundations up, Search google for seumas2 in youtube once opened go to the top and click on videos, the videos will be in reverse order, more as the build progresses. We never used tyvek or OSB, used moisture and air barriers products from EU, double wall 2X4 DK studs, 20 ins thick, Rockwool insulation R 80 walls ceiling R80, pad R55, triple glazing R 7.5, large windows facing South, small facing North, 1/2in plywood sheating, no air leakage, all joints and air infiltration taped, widow wells splayed at 45 degrees on the outside (wide angle view) heat exchanger (EU) heat pump hot water heater, wiring placed in the double wall cavity ( no drill holes in the studs, dropped ceiling allows the same, moisture barrier placed 1/3 distance from the from the interior wall, for further details view the videos. Wheel chair accessible, electrical switches one foot lower and the power plugs placed 4ins higher for that reason, Stay tuned as the build progress to the finish stage producing other 12 plus videos. slainte mhath
What's the carbon footprint of the house with all of those extra building materials? Also, obviously no one design is perfect, but is a passive solar house that also has low environmental impact even possible with all of that insulation and concrete? Seems hard to marry low environmental impact and carbon footprint with passive?
I have been building passive solar and super insulated for 35 years. This is a truly superior house and construction,,, nearly,, all of it I compliment.
The house is too well sealed. People fart, exhale, showers and pasta on the stove,,,, never lose sight of the fact people breathe. That house, as constructed in the video must have an air to air heat exchanger. I would NEVER use a particle board, OSB, or any manufactured wood product (formaldehyde) only some plywoods, maybe in a house that well sealed. Furniture has formaldehyde, carpeting out gases, cabinets,, the composite sink in the bath,, you are going to be breathing the plastic in the shower curtain, and the flameproof coating on your kid's jammies is going to be dangerous. People breathe. You can spend an extra 5 grand tightening a house,,, and then you must spend another 5 grand on the electrically run air to air heat exchanger.
And moisture management. In Nova Scotia,, I don't think this is going to be a problem TODAY,, but,, From direct experience, I would never put Tyvek on top of OSB. Never. A better, a much better membrane under siding is 30# or better yet, 45# felt. Felt allows vapour to pass easily,, I have never seen condensation on the inside of a felt barrier. I HAVE seen condensation accumulation on the inside of Tyvek. And chronic condensation on the inside of Tyvek,, will destroy OSB,, and what ir does not destroy,, it will mold.
What I REALLY liked about this build,, was the flawless poly barrier between the home and the gases of the soil,, radon, methane, etc. I'm gonna do that in my next build.
"The house is too well sealed."
No. No it isn't.
The old notion of "it has to breathe" is simply uncontrolled ventilation.
You don't want that. Because uncontrolled ventilation means uncontrolled heating and cooling.
This is why you have an HRV/ERV unit with controlled mechanical ventilation.
"Must have an air to air heat exchanger."
Which is part of what an HRV/ERV does.
Also, the issues with offgassing/VOCs is known. You have choices there as well.
Go with finishes with low VOC content.
Adjust your HRV/ERV for higher air exchange per hour for a period to help remove the offgassing.
You get problems in houses where you have recirculation of stale air.
Also, Tyvek is an air barrier, but vapor open.
And if you've seen condensation on the inside of Tyvek, you're looking at a faulty wall assembly.
Additionally, even if you have said condensation, if the wall assembly has a path to drying in a timely manner, you won't see degradation of the sheathing. It's when the wall is left damp for long periods and moisture stops migration out of the sheathing that you have issues.
It looks like the basement only has a water barrier on the inside. Wouldn't it be bad if moisture gets in between the ICF cracks? Could it damage the concrete or result in mold? Matt Risinger raises this point in h is ICF video: ua-cam.com/video/MRipzKkeQik/v-deo.html
Need to offer with iso-slab.com system kit
Any idea how much more per sq ft it is to build passive over conventional building techniques?
its about 10% more expensive in canada
$$$
Zackary Bouchard not the way they are building it here in this video
mod95red long term savings more then make up for more up front cost.
JohnsRadios that all depends someone could build a very efficient house with quality products and not meet "passive" guildlines due to certain products being used but the cost and the style of the "passive" products couldnt be justified doesnt mean you can be more efficient in building though.
07:30 "Passive houses really aren't all that different from the houses you are used to....."
Hmm. How about concrete/block houses? They're pretty much different than this type of houses: stronger winds cannot blow them away, floods cannot push them away, cyclones/tornadoes can do much less damage to them, they're more private (you have to enter inside to put eavesdropping gadgets) and so on.
Are these type of houses all that? Flood resistant? Like floods that are happening often and having in mind the climate changes more and more floods will be. Eavesdropping resistance? Soundproof resistance? Privacy degree? How about bigger windows?
Except, the fast building, energy efficient (how much, that's a question since you will have to use that gadget for ventilation which works on electricity andwillhaveto workday and night)...........what other benefits have these houses? Are they low maintenance costly? How long will they withstand?
P.S. : a house that is made from wood, nails, duct tape and "insulation " as wool in the walls......can you call that a house or "house of cards"?
I bought instruction from Avasva and I build it very very cheap.
Shame that they didn't use Zip system. Tyvek is really outdated
Tyvek still works. It's just more labor to detail it RIGHT.
Some of it comes down to cost. Some of it comes down to contractor confort.
What about radon????
Blue Phoenix good point.
For radon gas you need a layer of air( ventilated ) between the ground and the slab..
She talks about this already. The blue layer thing seems to act as barrier.
See our Passive House: www.nova-eplus-home.com
I can't believe you are using aspenite and not 5/8 plywood. You are doing all this extra work but still cheaping out on material. I guarantee you from experience once it gets wet it will attract insects and rot
Properly engineered wall assemblies simply don't have these issues.
Plywood, OSB, etc.
The face layer of OSB can withstand decades of periodic damp on the face and not break down or rot.
It's when the ends get damn, stay damp, and swell that you begin to have problems. Hence the seam taping.
So how much does it add to the cost of a conventional home ? 5%? 50%???
It really depends. Because the interior finishes can vastly skew the price of a home.
Going with super high dollar paint? Granite? Oak/Mahogany cabinets, real wood floors, etc, etc, etc?
The overall percentage for the extra insulation, the extra materials, and the detailing labor will be smaller.
Go with vinyl tile, Ikea cabinets and laminate countertop? The percentage will be larger.
In a 2K sq/ft home, insulation will run you around $0.65-$1.20/sq foot for a conventional job.
Add in 6 hours of labor at $150-300/hour. With better detailing, skew higher on the labor.
Super-insulation will roughly double your materials cost and labor.
Figure slightly over median for insulation and just call it a buck a square foot.
And figure VERY well detailed work at $300/hour.
You're talking $2000 in insulation and $1800 in labor. So about $3800 out of a house worth several hundred thousand dollars. This'll get you a well insulated house somewhat above code level.
For a super-insulated house, you'll pay out about $7600. And that's an estimate on the high side.
Also, if you're even MILDLY "handy", much of this is stuff that can be DIY'ed to save money.
It depends, but we usually add 10%-20% in Korea. Please consider that Korea has a rather harsh climate. It's very hot and wet in summer and bloody cold and dry in winter.
Using a piece of foam to adhere tape seems like a good idea, but they leave behind microplastics everywhere... Stop making microplastic pollution everywhere!
No spray foam?
Nope.
Spray foam has it's place.
But it's not environmentally friendly, expensive, and can have offgassing issues.
Also, spray foam is, essentially PERMANENT. YES, you can tear it out. But the labor to do so makes simply replacing the assembly WHOLESALE far easier.
So lots of builders avoid spray foam in new construction.
You'll see a lot higher utilization in retrofits.
Hell naw A duplex
Modest increase in price my butt. Thus will increase the cost of a home at least 50%.
Saving energy saves money month after month.
Why give your money to the utility company.
Every new home and retrofit needs to be energy efficient.
There is a Climate Crisis. WE need Climate Action.
The Magnificent Adamic-man.
...
Cush (Greek: Ethiopia), means sun-burnt
Phoenicians described by the Greeks, as fair-haired, fair-skinned people
Persia means Lord of the Aryans now renamed IRAN
12 Tribes - Lamentations 4:7
(i)ssac's Sons / Saxons / Anglo-Saxons / Europe / Australia / New Zealand / North America / First World
Are you suggesting all that tape will last 50 years?
This of course is not the only way to construct a passive house. there are many varieties of wall and roof assemblies that one can choose from.
I also had my doubts as to the longevity of the tape so when i had my last house built i had 14 cm T&G wood fiber insulation boards installed on the outside of 14 cm solid wood walls with a final layer of inch and a half T&G wood fiber sarking board . The T&G joints add extra security if the tape fails .
I know there is problems with the glue. Its the same with windows. They wont last
These aren't your old sealing tapes and duct tape of yesteryear.
The adhesives and the backers on these, provided you properly apply them, and limit their UV exposure, WILL last 50 years, if not more.
This looks like a great build (except for the OSB). Building passive or getting as close as you can to passive is always a good idea, but if I may be so bold, the are better ways...
CruxHomes.com
Better ? Gimmicky at best . The website states that the arches act AS a thermal bridge. This must be poor editing or massive ignorance on the subject of passivhaus . You want to STOP thermal bridging not encourage it .
Also what kind of insulation are you using ?
nice try. We can provide the windows matched with Passive house. The passive house window was aluminum type. certified with PHI. QXL Windows and doors.
OSB.... not healthy
why?
@@Skynet_11 Various types of OSB have preservatives in there that off-gas.
So you can get things like formaldehyde in the home.
Some of it depends on the engineering of your wall and floor assembly.
There are low and no VOC options available. Though they generally are more expensive.
You can also move to non-wood flooring options (MgO, Concrete, GypCrete, etc) if necessary.
Some of it will also depends on the speed of the home's construction, the dry in period, etc.
Additionally it also depends on your home's ventilation strategy.
If you get one of these "we built this house in a week, here's the keys!" places, yeah. You're going to have offgassing issues, even if every finish in the place is low/no VOC.
In a more regular, extended home build, things like decking and sheathing have a chance to breathe for some time before finish layers go over them.
Also, in a mechanically ventilated home with good air sealing, you can adjust your air exchange to help ameliorate it.
When you pay more to build this house, when you pay thousands for this additional ventilation system which also costs a lot to install, and when your ventilation system running 24/7 increases your electricity energy consumption by 40-50 %, then you find out using more and paying more, that's it. This just a new marketing trick, people aren't smart and easily manipulated, and construction industry knows this very well.
We paid $899 for ours and were able to DIY...
Name?
doesnt look sturdy...
Killah Priest well, I know of something that may be of interest to you. I'm working with others to bring a passive house product to Canada that is made of pre-fabricated walls that are filled with concrete on site. Very efficient and very sturdy.
Actually 2x6 with exterior larsen trusses and sheathing is VERY sturdy. You have a wall assembly that's 12-16 inches thick with the structural component just to the inside of center. And they're not carrying huge weight. Just insulation.
And, as SuperTombarton said. There's other ways to build if you want "sturdy" too.
ICF is one way. A COMPLETELY SOLID concrete wall with integral structural webbing,, reinforcement and encased in 4+ inches of foam (in most cases).
So there's no detailing the full-wall assembly for airtightness. Because it's already airtight.
You just have to pay attention at penetrations (doors, windows, plugs).
I've seen a well-detailed ICF home pull a .23 on a blower door test (Passive House standard is .6).
I've also seen video of an ICF home that had an SUV crash into it and survive just fine. The exterior facade was damaged, but the actual concrete wall itself was found to be fine after the fact.