'18 300 XC here, same deal. I'm in Colorado and going fast in rocks is literally rough. Dropping a set of MX-Tech Lucky cartridges valved by Stillwell for off road with .46 springs in it, can't wait to test.
This has to be the most underrated suspension video I have ever seen. Super helpful. I think all these manufacturers should make similar videos explaining there products.
I just had this done, asked for more stiffer valving and everything....and after really pushing it today in all types of terrain and doing a lot of jumping, man the forks bottom out SUPER EASY on even the smallest of jumps now. When they were air they never did that. Thinking I made a bad move.
If the tuner hasn't done a single spring conversion before, they probably didn't go stiff enough. It's a major change from stock AER damping settings. This is why people complain about single spring conversions I think; they don't end up set correctly. Hopefully you have a stiff enough spring in there too, you can check sag to see, you should be 1/4 to 1/3rd of the way into the travel with you geared up on the bike, with spring preload around 10mm. Once spring and damping are correct, it's a big improvement. The only time I see AER as having an advantage is on a moto track just because of the extreme spring force progression.
@@JoshStreetDesign it can help but if the valving is too far off, it will still be too soft. what oil quantity is in there today? Too much oil can cause problems, so just want to be sure you aren't going to hydrolock the fork.
@@gearheadE30 Added 20ccs more oil, made zero difference. Like you said, I love the plushness of the fork, but the valving definitely needs to be adjusted. Taking it to a better tuner this month to have it redone. Fingers crossed.
What is your weight and which Spring-Rate would you recommend for a 205lbs, Vet/Intermediate on a FC 350 for MX? THX in advance, I appreciate your high-leveled, informative Vids!!
@@gearheadE30 Yet on stock AER, but just bought a used K-Tech Air2Spring-Kit. Unfortunately only the old "non hydrostop"-version. Wondering about which Spring I need and the recommendations vary from 0.92 to 1.04!!😆 Weird....
@@crnobrnd Part of the problem with these single spring conversions is that the stock AER valving is too soft for a coil spring in most cases. If you're racing MX, I'd go with a 1.00 and expect that you'll probably still need to go stiffer on valving to have a good safety factor unless you're high enough level that you're not really at risk for casing or landing to flat too frequently. For comparison's sake, I run a 0.92 on my 300 for racing harescrambles. I'm surprised anyone is recommending that for moto on a 4 stroke.
@@gearheadE30 Yeah, saw it in your Vid that you have a 0.92 for Enduro on a much lighter bike. Now understanding your Bodyweight is even less, I'm confident that a 0.92 is sensless for me. Though I tend to go for a 0.96, because I saw a Vid from Jake Nichols, setting up his 23' FC 350 and he claimed a 1.00 is to hard for him. He's at 190lbs and it's a newer model, but still: he's former MXGP-rider. I can't believe I need stiffer spring than a Pro. As for the valving: I would try stock first and if it's not working, but already gives me a good feel, even let it be revalved, if needed. Sounds like a plan does it? 🙂 Thanks for the tipps again, that with the different valving for Air and Coil is priceless!! 🙏
@@crnobrnd happy to help! Your weight difference is part of it, but I also err on the stiffer side on springs for moto if I don't know rider skill level. The reason is safety factor - a pro is pretty unlikely to case or over jump badly, and if they do, they have the instinct and skill to deal with it. Being a little too stiff is not good for comfort, but it can help give you some extra margin of error if you really mess up, especially if valving is soft. Just run less preload on the spring to get your race sag in the right place so the bike still turns properly. Suspension is one of those things where you will get a lot of different opinions of things because everyone likes a different feel, this is just my opinion.
'18 300 XC here, same deal. I'm in Colorado and going fast in rocks is literally rough. Dropping a set of MX-Tech Lucky cartridges valved by Stillwell for off road with .46 springs in it, can't wait to test.
Thanks for info
This has to be the most underrated suspension video I have ever seen. Super helpful. I think all these manufacturers should make similar videos explaining there products.
Glad you liked it!
Had the same issue with my air forks , very cool seeing the slow mo comparison 👏
Really good info, cheers
I just had this done, asked for more stiffer valving and everything....and after really pushing it today in all types of terrain and doing a lot of jumping, man the forks bottom out SUPER EASY on even the smallest of jumps now. When they were air they never did that. Thinking I made a bad move.
If the tuner hasn't done a single spring conversion before, they probably didn't go stiff enough. It's a major change from stock AER damping settings. This is why people complain about single spring conversions I think; they don't end up set correctly. Hopefully you have a stiff enough spring in there too, you can check sag to see, you should be 1/4 to 1/3rd of the way into the travel with you geared up on the bike, with spring preload around 10mm. Once spring and damping are correct, it's a big improvement. The only time I see AER as having an advantage is on a moto track just because of the extreme spring force progression.
@@gearheadE30 do you think it would help if I I tried adding 10 cc more of oil to the fork via the bleeder valve?
@@JoshStreetDesign it can help but if the valving is too far off, it will still be too soft. what oil quantity is in there today? Too much oil can cause problems, so just want to be sure you aren't going to hydrolock the fork.
@@gearheadE30 Added 20ccs more oil, made zero difference. Like you said, I love the plushness of the fork, but the valving definitely needs to be adjusted. Taking it to a better tuner this month to have it redone. Fingers crossed.
@@joshstreet2336 yep, gotta get that valving right. Oil level is much more of a fine adjustment.
What is your weight and which Spring-Rate would you recommend for a 205lbs, Vet/Intermediate on a FC 350 for MX? THX in advance, I appreciate your high-leveled, informative Vids!!
Thanks, glad you have enjoyed them! I am 185 lbs not in gear. Are you on a single spring conversion, the stock AER, or dual springs?
@@gearheadE30 Yet on stock AER, but just bought a used K-Tech Air2Spring-Kit. Unfortunately only the old "non hydrostop"-version. Wondering about which Spring I need and the recommendations vary from 0.92 to 1.04!!😆 Weird....
@@crnobrnd Part of the problem with these single spring conversions is that the stock AER valving is too soft for a coil spring in most cases. If you're racing MX, I'd go with a 1.00 and expect that you'll probably still need to go stiffer on valving to have a good safety factor unless you're high enough level that you're not really at risk for casing or landing to flat too frequently. For comparison's sake, I run a 0.92 on my 300 for racing harescrambles. I'm surprised anyone is recommending that for moto on a 4 stroke.
@@gearheadE30 Yeah, saw it in your Vid that you have a 0.92 for Enduro on a much lighter bike. Now understanding your Bodyweight is even less, I'm confident that a 0.92 is sensless for me.
Though I tend to go for a 0.96, because I saw a Vid from Jake Nichols, setting up his 23' FC 350 and he claimed a 1.00 is to hard for him. He's at 190lbs and it's a newer model, but still: he's former MXGP-rider. I can't believe I need stiffer spring than a Pro.
As for the valving: I would try stock first and if it's not working, but already gives me a good feel, even let it be revalved, if needed.
Sounds like a plan does it? 🙂
Thanks for the tipps again, that with the different valving for Air and Coil is priceless!! 🙏
@@crnobrnd happy to help! Your weight difference is part of it, but I also err on the stiffer side on springs for moto if I don't know rider skill level. The reason is safety factor - a pro is pretty unlikely to case or over jump badly, and if they do, they have the instinct and skill to deal with it. Being a little too stiff is not good for comfort, but it can help give you some extra margin of error if you really mess up, especially if valving is soft. Just run less preload on the spring to get your race sag in the right place so the bike still turns properly. Suspension is one of those things where you will get a lot of different opinions of things because everyone likes a different feel, this is just my opinion.
What spring conversion kit did the forks have??
This was the original k tech orss kit. They now have the new kit with the bottoming cone that I've upgraded to, which makes a big difference.