On some of these current model TDA amplifier boards, they have added dip switches so there's no longer a need to remove and add resistors, just flip the little dip switches to change the gain. Super handy!
Thank you very much for the excellent review. Changed the gain on a mono board from previously 36db to 20db which significantly reduced loudspeaker hiss.
Hello Adrian - from soggy England. I also like these little amps, so much so I ordered aother. Your gain fix turned this little beast into the good TPA amp AND the cheapest. Only problem is my second one came with an unstuck heat sink like yours. I can't see any damage to the chip intself and one of the grey caps has been soldered (or is that sodderd) cock eyed. I have sent a photo off to the seller. Regardless of the outcome I shall try and salvage this amp. I don't like glued heat sinks. I'm moving the 2 large caps to the opposite side of the board and rigging up a bigger heat sink. If it all works your gain mod will be done. Thanks so much - great channel. Regards.
I have a TPA3116D2 2.1 powering my entire house speakers. They have been used for almost a year. I bought them off eBay for $12. That is how good and worth it these chips are.
Very valuable information! Thank you. The only thing I never feel sure about these boards is the power requirements. The listings never say how many amps should the supply be.
I want to do the same thing. I'll run mine off a couple of used 7ah lead acid agm sealed agm batteries from my stairchair lift. I want to run an auxillary jensen 8ohm 12 inch speaker that can handle up to 50watts from my Fender guitar amp speaker which also has one of these TDA power chips in it as factory standard.
I think I have 2 of these red ones. I wasn't smart enough to figure out how to set the gain, but as I recall I did swap out the volume pot for a 10K one which cut the background noise considerably.
If you use PCM-generated audio from an Arduino, they recommend to add components to make a filter, to make the audio more sinus-like in order to protect the speakers, "unless the amplifier has one". Does this amplifier? Sorry for the beginner question.
I have one for a mono sub and the volume knob is super sensitive.. to the point where i can only turn it up maybe a 16th of a turn before it gets too loud and clips.. pushing a type e 10 damn good.. hits at 30hz.. likes 35…
please help me. some how right channel of my amplifier is not working. how to test the problem. by the way i checked capacitors and resisters, nothing is short or burned.
It says that the chip produces 50w at 21v, TPA3116D2 2x50. The others say that watts drop, because it's other model chips listed TPA3118D2 2x30, TPA3130D2 2x15W, Notice models differ. So if you don't get 50w, either board design is limited, your power delivery is lacking, or it's weaker chip. On the graph side datasheet it shows pretty steady clipping point just above 50w on 24v into 8ohms.
This amp is pretty good but be aware that this has an audible buzz if you don't use a clean power source. I am just running from a 12v 2amp router power supply and it runs great for my computer desktop speakers but like I said with a very very small audible buzz that isn't so bad.
Great review, and great fix explanation. Understandable and doable for almost everyone. One question though, is there a 3 ways (2.1) version of these little boards ?
Watch out with the XH-M189 boards. Mine was faulty by design. Yes, there's an error in the pcb design. If you follow the datasheet example and look at the negative left input, it should be connected with a ceramic cap to signal ground just like the right channel is with c4.. It isn't, they messed it up so now the decoupling cap for the gaindivider is connected to signal ground, which isn't boardground but floating. the cap that should do that is c2 which is switched in the design. There should be a via from that to pins 6&7 and c5 should go from signalground to pin11, left in negative. It can be fixed but it's too much work for a $5 board. Get the blue one, it's way better.
Hi I know this is a 3 year old message but i will ask anyway- can you predict what effect this fault would have on this amplifier boards real world use?
What was that movie that David Bowie was in? For some reason this ending of this video reminded me of the scene where there was the characters "Helping Hands" . she's also the girl that was in Dark City
From what I read, the noise is due to grounding issues (amp ground putting noise on the input ground, bleeding trough to the actual audio), wouldn't it be better to fix the grounding issue somehow rather then gimping the gain?
I tried to reduce the gain from 26db to 20db on my board, but it didn’t work. After I desoldered the 100k resistor, I measure 20kOhm to 70kOhm (don’t know why I get different values) over the pads that’s supposed to be open circuit. When I try it, it sounds like the board reset ever second or so with the speakers clipping. After resoldering the resistors back I get the same behavior. I tried it with two boards and I cannot understand why the oHm values are wrong. Any ideas?
What are the two large capacitors for? Also you mentioned the 4 very small capacitors are for the input. They look like small resistors. They make capacitors look like that as well? Best regards.
Thank you for an informative video. I bought the TPA3116 D2. It feeds back with loud echo at very low volume. Any simple ideas are welcome. Running 13.5 volt dc to very old but good 8ohm 20w Sansui speakers. has a voltage range of 5-27. Would higher voltage eliminate such feedback?
I have been looking at various of these chinese micro amps, and they are obviously made to be used with some cheap power adapter (or maybe even a battery of some kind if its only for very small speakers). What I really wanted to do with one of these were to put it into an existing passive speaker, but instead of using a power adapter, build my own power supply that can deliver enough power to get maximum out of it, eg a 20-30v transformer that can deliver enough current and mount it all inside the speaker and only have a Line input, and a 230v power connector. Is there anywhere to find some easy schematics to make your own regulated power suply (instead of just going out and buy a 24v laptop adapter) as they usually tend to be a bit more expensive if you need something that can deliver about 50w, and I already have trafos laying around salvaged from old electronics, and its more fun to actually build it yourself.
The problem is either (a) your power supply engages internal current limit protection/ short circuit protection because you're drawing more current than it can deliver. or (b) the amplifier is engaging its thermal protection because it's overheated, which is honestly not particularly likely given it's just running at 19V, but you can always check with your finger, both on top the heatsink and on the bottom of the board. Note to check the heatsink that it's on there good. Also running full gain at this voltage seems a bit dangerous, i mean it's likely gonna clip. You can burn your speaker tweeters like that.
Nice video ! I'm a fan of printing shit out too - nothing beats paper ! Does it have any turn on thump to it ? Ordered two this summer and both had it ... Also the 2 ones I had had a huge idle current draw .. do you remember how yours performed ? Thanks
what would be the difference between the 5.1k resistor and 5.6k ? I'm wondering 'cause i don't have a 5.6k either and maybe it's better to add a 470ohm in series to match the datasheet ?
What connectors did you use to go from the power source to the green screw-press style connector on the board? Could a standard 12-24V round plug be soldered in place of the existing connector on the board? Apologies as I don't know all the proper terminology yet as I'm definitely not in my area of expertise haha, but I do enjoy learning so any help is a plus! Thanks
Good day I just wanted to ask what is the lowest impedance it can handle I would like to know because what I have is one sub 100 watts 8 ohms and will add two 90 watts 4 ohms connected in parallel, I hope someone can answer if what I am doing will be just fine. Thanks in advance
Want to build an auxillary speaker cabinet with a 12 inch Jensen guitar speaker and using 'this board amp to power it, in mono mconfiguration, running off two 12..6 volt 7ah batteries (inside speaker cabinet) for portability, to slave off my Fender Champ 40w , which also has one of these TDA chip power amps. So, if at 24volts, its 20w +20w...can it produced 40w in mono operation? How do you configure it for mono operation? for 8 ohm operation? What kind of 3 pin plug does it use..is it a molex?]
I have the same question! From the datasheet it looks like shorting the left input pins after the capacitors will set it in PBTL (Mono) mode during startup. For the output you need to short the left + and - together and the right + and - together before the LC filter... Not very sure how to do that
Thank you Adrian for the nice and details review. I am about to get one of this. I can see that you have a few sheets of the board fact sheet and diagram. Are you able to tell me if they are downloadable please? Thank you.
the datasheet specifies the use of 220uF capacitors for decoupling, would it be worth it to replace those 1000uF one's with audio grade panasonic 220uF one's ?
Good Morning. I connected an amplifier board (TPA3116D2) and an mp3 decoder to the same 12vcc source and there is a noise in the loudspeaker. If the decoder and the amplifier board are connected to separate sources, the noise will disappear. Do you know what you could do to connect them both to the same source without having the noise? Thank you.
I wager a guess, the TPA is fine, but it injects the noise into the power supply that bothers the MP3 decoder. Use inductors in line with the supply for the MP3 decoder. How much of an inductance is sufficient will depend on the output capacitance of the power supply and input capacitance of the MP3 decoder - if it doesn't have any, add some. The 3 filter elements, capacitance, inductance, capacitance will form a 3rd order filter and you can use some filter calculator to figure out how much inductance you need, or just add inductance and capacitance till you're good - the filter calculator will spit out corner frequency, and if it's in the audible range, you should be golden, because from there on for every doubling of the frequency, residual noise should reduce by 18db. I wager a guess just a dozen turns of wire around a ferrite core, like about 100µH, and 2000µF capacitance, should resolve your issue.
This is pretty awesome. Will this type of amp also work with a car stereo? I am looking for something cheap that can help me to balance audio better in my car
Reverse, the board goes less loud with the resistor mod. Because it's the internal gain that is the source of noise. The amplifier board already ships with maximum gain enabled.
i had this one, but I gonna pair it with 80W woofer and 100W tweeter, i'm not gonna use it at full power tbh, i got a same issue with you, the noise floor pretty high, when i turn up the volume to 50%, the noise goes up, but when i turn the volume to max, the noise floor goes down, can you help me
thats just how this specific chip works. its weird that way. ive had one. nothing you can do about it. but mine had almost no noise floor issues at all even in a quiet bedroom. had to put my ears to my speakers to notice it.
That would pretty much murder the intended sound of the speaker. Just choose lower supply voltage, i expect that the amplifier might fail if you drive 4 Ohm speakers at 24V, but 19V or so shouldn't be too bad.
a different module amplifier i read about, wass capable of 4 ohm loads if it had a heatsink applied, these all have heatsinks so i'm guessing they can handle it yes
I have the xh-m190, same board but with 2 of the amplifier chips. I don´t know what kind of power supply i ´m going to need to drive this. Whats the amp draw on your chip?
my review exactly. i love how simple and bare bones these things are. But i wanted to increase the sensitivity of the volume knob, since most phones don't put out a strong enough signal. (unless i hookup the headphone jack of my stereo receiver to get its true power, which is impressive) Do you happen to know the rating on the potentiometer on this? EDIT: ok so..... you basically removed the little R2... and solder in a 5.1K resistor?
The same problem i discovered - my Samsung Phone delivers not enough signal voltage to get the full power the board can give at 26V supply. The solution is to increase the gain, on this board given with 26dB (20x) by R1 (20k) and R2 (100k), by change R1 to 39k, wich give a gain of 32dB (40x, because +6dB -> 2x). With R1=47k and R2=75 the gain is 36dB (63x) according to data sheet. Setting R1 to 5,6k and removing R2 leads to gain of 20dB, this is 10x of input voltage and less loud. But it also reduced the noise as Adrian already mentioned. Very important: On the given board R2 (of the data sheet and schematic) is marked as R3 and R1 is marked as R4!
Viktor Lundquvist I don't know what they are called but you can get them in fabric shops (where you get sewing stuff) and they are used to cut fabric on !! FYI
Have you found a way to eliminate the "Bump" when the power is switched on? thank you for this excellent demonstration on changing the gain on this amp.
My idea is using a single MOSFET with a resistor divider on the gate and a capacitor delaying the opening. Then have the switch break the bias so that it discharges and shuts down when powered off. This would be better anyway because the built-in pot switch wasn't meant for loads like this.
With respect, the 'D' in Class D does not mean or refer to 'Digital'. The classification 'D' refers to fact that the amplifying devices in the circuit operate as electronic switches, and not as linear gain devices as in other amplifiers. There are no digital electronics involved whatsoever.
A very good review really. I am waiting for this TPA3116D2 amplifier working in mono mode: www.ebay.com/itm/401184532883 hoping it could drive Sony SS-WS500 3 Ohm 100W passive subwoofer from Sony HCD-S800 surround system. The amplifier input would be connected to the subwoofer output of Yamaha HTR-6130 Dolby decoder. The subwoofer ouput is declared as 4V/1.2 kOhm and I wonder if I will be able to attenuate the input with the trimmer marked as 'Volume control'. That is - I am not sure if this trimmer attentuates the signal before entering into the amplifier and I believe 4 V would be way to much. The next thing I am not sure is if heatsink will be able to handle the heat disipation at 22V (90W, 10% THD+N @3Ohm according to the TPA3116D2 datasheet). THD is not of a big concern because the subwoofer output already has 10% THD. BTW, how did you mount the LED strip connector (terminal connector to 2.1x5.5 mm) back-to-back to the PCB's terminal connectors?
good video lately i'm interested in to cheap mini amps searching for low voltage like 5v 10v amp for portable bluetooth speaker project it's hard to chose from big select witch is the best performance can you recomend something?
That's just the gain setting, and PAM8610 really isn't that good, there's a bit of distortion that is clearly audible on low level signals. You can run TPA3116 down to lower voltages just fine too, datasheet says 4.5V - 26V, though high end of the range is limited by component choice and cooling. Fundamentally 3116 is both more powerful and cleaner, and the lower the supply voltage, the cleaner it should run, up to where the voltage is insufficient and it clips.
Great video . . but class 'D' does not mean 'Digital'. This is a common error. There is no digital circuitry or digital conversion involved. The audio signal IS converted into a pulse train but this is not digital in any sense.
yo... it dont fuckin work! i did it just like you said, held the Resistor with tweezers and it took. popped off the R2, but absolutely nothing comes out now!!! >:c i got a busted Amp now! is this one of those bullshit pranks? LOL? really?!
On some of these current model TDA amplifier boards, they have added dip switches so there's no longer a need to remove and add resistors, just flip the little dip switches to change the gain. Super handy!
I was wondering of the quality of this board, since it's so cheap and your review was exactly what i wanted. Thanks a lot!
Thank you very much for the excellent review. Changed the gain on a mono board from previously 36db to 20db which significantly reduced loudspeaker hiss.
Hello Adrian - from soggy England. I also like these little amps, so much so I ordered aother. Your gain fix turned this little beast into the good TPA amp AND the cheapest. Only problem is my second one came with an unstuck heat sink like yours. I can't see any damage to the chip intself and one of the grey caps has been soldered (or is that sodderd) cock eyed. I have sent a photo off to the seller. Regardless of the outcome I shall try and salvage this amp. I don't like glued heat sinks. I'm moving the 2 large caps to the opposite side of the board and rigging up a bigger heat sink. If it all works your gain mod will be done. Thanks so much - great channel. Regards.
I have a TPA3116D2 2.1 powering my entire house speakers. They have been used for almost a year. I bought them off eBay for $12. That is how good and worth it these chips are.
4:02 That is TPA3118 rating. TPA3116 can output well over 50W per channel @24V if you have good enough heatsink.
Very valuable information! Thank you. The only thing I never feel sure about these boards is the power requirements. The listings never say how many amps should the supply be.
Great review man, just ordered one as an attempt to convert a passive speaker cabinet (homemade) to an active one. For $5 you cannot go wrong really.
I want to do the same thing. I'll run mine off a couple of used 7ah lead acid
agm sealed agm batteries from my stairchair lift. I want to run an auxillary
jensen 8ohm 12 inch speaker that can handle up to 50watts from my
Fender guitar amp speaker which also has one of these TDA power chips in
it as factory standard.
I think I have 2 of these red ones. I wasn't smart enough to figure out how to set the gain, but as I recall I did swap out the volume pot for a 10K one which cut the background noise considerably.
Adrian Black what did you do with the board that lost it's chip?? I was wondering what it would do with a real TI chip on it !!
If you use PCM-generated audio from an Arduino, they recommend to add components to make a filter, to make the audio more sinus-like in order to protect the speakers, "unless the amplifier has one". Does this amplifier?
Sorry for the beginner question.
I have one for a mono sub and the volume knob is super sensitive.. to the point where i can only turn it up maybe a 16th of a turn before it gets too loud and clips.. pushing a type e 10 damn good.. hits at 30hz.. likes 35…
please help me. some how right channel of my amplifier is not working. how to test the problem. by the way i checked capacitors and resisters, nothing is short or burned.
It says that the chip produces 50w at 21v, TPA3116D2 2x50. The others say that watts drop, because it's other model chips listed TPA3118D2 2x30, TPA3130D2 2x15W, Notice models differ. So if you don't get 50w, either board design is limited, your power delivery is lacking, or it's weaker chip. On the graph side datasheet it shows pretty steady clipping point just above 50w on 24v into 8ohms.
This amp is pretty good but be aware that this has an audible buzz if you don't use a clean power source. I am just running from a 12v 2amp router power supply and it runs great for my computer desktop speakers but like I said with a very very small audible buzz that isn't so bad.
That's why i got myself a bunch of ferrite cores. You can always de-noise a power supply with a filter.
I bought the same one but I don't know what to use as a power supply so I need help on that. It would be appreciated if you answered
thanks for the infos, i just wanted to know if there any hiss/buzz noise from this amp ?
Great review, and great fix explanation. Understandable and doable for almost everyone.
One question though, is there a 3 ways (2.1) version of these little boards ?
Yes there is!
I've got one on order, www.ebay.com.au/itm/262693152637?
What's the frequency response can you tell us? Thank you.
I bought some of the USB powered amps that take an SD card, great little amp for small 5 watt speakers, they are well worth £2.26
Hi, I want to connect the audio input to that white input thing. What are the cables called so I can connect to a 3.5 mm.
replace R1 with the 5.1k and.... remove R2? i got a 3Watt resistor, i wonder if that would work just as well.
Watch out with the XH-M189 boards. Mine was faulty by design. Yes, there's an error in the pcb design. If you follow the datasheet example and look at the negative left input, it should be connected with a ceramic cap to signal ground just like the right channel is with c4.. It isn't, they messed it up so now the decoupling cap for the gaindivider is connected to signal ground, which isn't boardground but floating. the cap that should do that is c2 which is switched in the design. There should be a via from that to pins 6&7 and c5 should go from signalground to pin11, left in negative.
It can be fixed but it's too much work for a $5 board. Get the blue one, it's way better.
Hi I know this is a 3 year old message but i will ask anyway- can you predict what effect this fault would have on this amplifier boards real world use?
What was that movie that David Bowie was in? For some reason this ending of this video reminded me of the scene where there was the characters "Helping Hands" . she's also the girl that was in Dark City
From what I read, the noise is due to grounding issues (amp ground putting noise on the input ground, bleeding trough to the actual audio), wouldn't it be better to fix the grounding issue somehow rather then gimping the gain?
But.... what if i use that 3-pin JST connector instead of the headphone jack? will the Resistor change be the same?
Hey, your "TPA3116D2 2.1 Amplifier Test" video is not available....!!!
does it have pop sound, some tpa3116 board from china have horrible pop sound. Does this board having this problem?
I tried to reduce the gain from 26db to 20db on my board, but it didn’t work. After I desoldered the 100k resistor, I measure 20kOhm to 70kOhm (don’t know why I get different values) over the pads that’s supposed to be open circuit. When I try it, it sounds like the board reset ever second or so with the speakers clipping. After resoldering the resistors back I get the same behavior. I tried it with two boards and I cannot understand why the oHm values are wrong. Any ideas?
What are the two large capacitors for? Also you mentioned the 4 very small capacitors are for the input. They look like small resistors. They make capacitors look like that as well? Best regards.
Thank you for an informative video. I bought the TPA3116 D2. It feeds back with loud echo at very low volume. Any simple ideas are welcome. Running 13.5 volt dc to very old but good 8ohm 20w Sansui speakers. has a voltage range of 5-27. Would higher voltage eliminate such feedback?
I have been looking at various of these chinese micro amps, and they are obviously made to be used with some cheap power adapter (or maybe even a battery of some kind if its only for very small speakers). What I really wanted to do with one of these were to put it into an existing passive speaker, but instead of using a power adapter, build my own power supply that can deliver enough power to get maximum out of it, eg a 20-30v transformer that can deliver enough current and mount it all inside the speaker and only have a Line input, and a 230v power connector. Is there anywhere to find some easy schematics to make your own regulated power suply (instead of just going out and buy a 24v laptop adapter) as they usually tend to be a bit more expensive if you need something that can deliver about 50w, and I already have trafos laying around salvaged from old electronics, and its more fun to actually build it yourself.
plz help
at full gain it mute the audio on bass beat .same board with 19v laptop power supply. whts the problem?
The problem is either
(a) your power supply engages internal current limit protection/ short circuit protection because you're drawing more current than it can deliver.
or
(b) the amplifier is engaging its thermal protection because it's overheated, which is honestly not particularly likely given it's just running at 19V, but you can always check with your finger, both on top the heatsink and on the bottom of the board. Note to check the heatsink that it's on there good.
Also running full gain at this voltage seems a bit dangerous, i mean it's likely gonna clip. You can burn your speaker tweeters like that.
Is there a way to get power off this board (after the potentiometer) to send to a bluetooth receiver so the bluetooth is not always on?
can I power it from USB? It says 5- 24V input... Or can I use a boost converter in front of it... How many Amps does it draw?
There is a humming sound on my "TPA3116" 2.1 when plugged in. Why is that. Humming sound stops completely when i remove the audio jack.
you have a ground loop !! i cant help you further since i dont know your config
the problem is called ground loop
Nice video ! I'm a fan of printing shit out too - nothing beats paper ! Does it have any turn on thump to it ? Ordered two this summer and both had it ... Also the 2 ones I had had a huge idle current draw .. do you remember how yours performed ? Thanks
what would be the difference between the 5.1k resistor and 5.6k ? I'm wondering 'cause i don't have a 5.6k either and maybe it's better to add a 470ohm in series to match the datasheet ?
Mine has sound cutting. Do you know how to solve it?
I've replaced the resistor, opened r2 and now the speaker signal is cutting in and out. Have you got any clue why?
What connectors did you use to go from the power source to the green screw-press style connector on the board? Could a standard 12-24V round plug be soldered in place of the existing connector on the board? Apologies as I don't know all the proper terminology yet as I'm definitely not in my area of expertise haha, but I do enjoy learning so any help is a plus! Thanks
Good day I just wanted to ask what is the lowest impedance it can handle I would like to know because what I have is one sub 100 watts 8 ohms and will add two 90 watts 4 ohms connected in parallel, I hope someone can answer if what I am doing will be just fine. Thanks in advance
Want to build an auxillary speaker cabinet with a 12 inch Jensen guitar speaker and using
'this board amp to power it, in mono mconfiguration, running off two 12..6 volt 7ah batteries (inside speaker cabinet) for portability, to slave off my Fender Champ 40w , which also has one of these TDA chip power amps.
So, if at 24volts, its 20w +20w...can it produced 40w in mono operation?
How do you configure it for mono operation? for 8 ohm operation?
What kind of 3 pin plug does it use..is it a molex?]
I have the same question! From the datasheet it looks like shorting the left input pins after the capacitors will set it in PBTL (Mono) mode during startup. For the output you need to short the left + and - together and the right + and - together before the LC filter... Not very sure how to do that
Where did u get that female dc piece?
Thank you Adrian for the nice and details review. I am about to get one of this. I can see that you have a few sheets of the board fact sheet and diagram. Are you able to tell me if they are downloadable please? Thank you.
the datasheet specifies the use of 220uF capacitors for decoupling, would it be worth it to replace those 1000uF one's with audio grade panasonic 220uF one's ?
I beg you
do not you know how to advise me for that amplifier TPA3116
resonates?
after feedback is turned on in the loudspeaker
thank you
merhaba aynı ürünü aldım ama hoparlörlerde cızırtı geliyo aux girişini takınca daha çok geliyo sizce sebebi nedir
Good Morning. I connected an amplifier board (TPA3116D2) and an mp3 decoder to the same 12vcc source and there is a noise in the loudspeaker. If the decoder and the amplifier board are connected to separate sources, the noise will disappear. Do you know what you could do to connect them both to the same source without having the noise?
Thank you.
I wager a guess, the TPA is fine, but it injects the noise into the power supply that bothers the MP3 decoder. Use inductors in line with the supply for the MP3 decoder. How much of an inductance is sufficient will depend on the output capacitance of the power supply and input capacitance of the MP3 decoder - if it doesn't have any, add some. The 3 filter elements, capacitance, inductance, capacitance will form a 3rd order filter and you can use some filter calculator to figure out how much inductance you need, or just add inductance and capacitance till you're good - the filter calculator will spit out corner frequency, and if it's in the audible range, you should be golden, because from there on for every doubling of the frequency, residual noise should reduce by 18db. I wager a guess just a dozen turns of wire around a ferrite core, like about 100µH, and 2000µF capacitance, should resolve your issue.
What voltage do I need for 6Ω 45W speakers? Is it a bad idea?
This is pretty awesome. Will this type of amp also work with a car stereo? I am looking for something cheap that can help me to balance audio better in my car
What is that female 3 pins connection ??
So, with the resistor-fix, the board can go louder, right?
Adrian Black So you put the gain down or Up in this Video?
Reverse, the board goes less loud with the resistor mod. Because it's the internal gain that is the source of noise. The amplifier board already ships with maximum gain enabled.
Where is the link in the description for this!!
Can you suggest a good amplifier to go with a 12.6v battery pack?
Making a Bluetooth speaker, drivers are 4ohm 10-20w(max)
i had this one, but I gonna pair it with 80W woofer and 100W tweeter, i'm not gonna use it at full power tbh, i got a same issue with you, the noise floor pretty high, when i turn up the volume to 50%, the noise goes up, but when i turn the volume to max, the noise floor goes down, can you help me
thats just how this specific chip works. its weird that way. ive had one. nothing you can do about it.
but mine had almost no noise floor issues at all even in a quiet bedroom. had to put my ears to my speakers to notice it.
Hi
what kind of power supply do you use with it? (amp)
thanks
I guess you soldered the better volume knob of the broken board onto the new board
can i drive 4 ohm spekers with it if i put a resistor or something on the speaker to increase ohm?
That would pretty much murder the intended sound of the speaker. Just choose lower supply voltage, i expect that the amplifier might fail if you drive 4 Ohm speakers at 24V, but 19V or so shouldn't be too bad.
The board has 10mh inductors .Doesn't 8 ohm speaker require 15mh or 22mh inductors.
can i use this amp with a tv to speaker
Will it work fine for 4 ohm speakers ?
a different module amplifier i read about, wass capable of 4 ohm loads if it had a heatsink applied,
these all have heatsinks so i'm guessing they can handle it yes
He explains this in the video, so watch the whole video!
I have the xh-m190, same board but with 2 of the amplifier chips. I don´t know what kind of power supply i ´m going to need to drive this. Whats the amp draw on your chip?
Correction, i dont have it yet. its on its way
my review exactly. i love how simple and bare bones these things are.
But i wanted to increase the sensitivity of the volume knob, since most phones don't put out a strong enough signal. (unless i hookup the headphone jack of my stereo receiver to get its true power, which is impressive)
Do you happen to know the rating on the potentiometer on this? EDIT: ok so..... you basically removed the little R2... and solder in a 5.1K resistor?
The same problem i discovered - my Samsung Phone delivers not enough signal voltage to get the full power the board can give at 26V supply.
The solution is to increase the gain, on this board given with 26dB (20x) by R1 (20k) and R2 (100k), by change R1 to 39k, wich give a gain of 32dB (40x, because +6dB -> 2x).
With R1=47k and R2=75 the gain is 36dB (63x) according to data sheet.
Setting R1 to 5,6k and removing R2 leads to gain of 20dB, this is 10x of input voltage and less loud.
But it also reduced the noise as Adrian already mentioned.
Very important:
On the given board R2 (of the data sheet and schematic) is marked as R3 and R1 is marked as R4!
What's that board/cutting thingy you have on your desk called?
Viktor Lundquvist I don't know what they are called but you can get them in fabric shops (where you get sewing stuff) and they are used to cut fabric on !! FYI
Self-healing cutting mat.
Well So If I Connect a Car battery it Will Give me About 10W Outpot ?
Yes
It connect 24 3amp adapter?
what power supply i need to play 3 amps together with one crossover?
i think that i need one 12V 12A 150W...i'm right?
Yo are you good at wiring up amplifiers like what you are showing in this video?
Can this be used as a headphone/microphone amp for a PC?
I'm using mine on a pair of HD 668Bs with 56 ohm drivers and it's awesome!
On this audio amplifier, you immediately need to replace the 1000 mF capacitors with 4700 ones
Hi, what power supply did you use?
I always use ones from Thinkpad laptops -- I have a ton of them and they seem to work really well.
I'm super confused when you reference R1 and R2. You removed R3 and R4. Trying to installing a pot for gain adjustment on mine.
Never mind, I need to pay more attention, haha.
Hm, I mirrored what you did with a pot in place of the resistor and even with R1 and R2 open there's no difference whatsoever.
>The gain setting is latched during power-up
and cannot be changed while device is powered.
Alright I'm done commenting!
5$ ? where is the link ?
What about the characteristics of the input signal to be connected to audio in? What about the max voltage?
Have you found a way to eliminate the "Bump" when the power is switched on? thank you for this excellent demonstration on changing the gain on this amp.
My idea is using a single MOSFET with a resistor divider on the gate and a capacitor delaying the opening. Then have the switch break the bias so that it discharges and shuts down when powered off. This would be better anyway because the built-in pot switch wasn't meant for loads like this.
just subbed to your channel nice review
Link for this?
With respect, the 'D' in Class D does not mean or refer to 'Digital'.
The classification 'D' refers to fact that the amplifying devices in the circuit operate as electronic switches, and not as linear gain devices as in other amplifiers. There are no digital electronics involved whatsoever.
This guy speaks perfect English
A very good review really. I am waiting for this TPA3116D2 amplifier working in mono mode:
www.ebay.com/itm/401184532883
hoping it could drive Sony SS-WS500 3 Ohm 100W passive subwoofer from Sony HCD-S800 surround system. The amplifier input would be connected to the subwoofer output of Yamaha HTR-6130 Dolby decoder. The subwoofer ouput is declared as 4V/1.2 kOhm and I wonder if I will be able to attenuate the input with the trimmer marked as 'Volume control'. That is - I am not sure if this trimmer attentuates the signal before entering into the amplifier and I believe 4 V would be way to much.
The next thing I am not sure is if heatsink will be able to handle the heat disipation at 22V (90W, 10% THD+N @3Ohm according to the TPA3116D2 datasheet). THD is not of a big concern because the subwoofer output already has 10% THD.
BTW, how did you mount the LED strip connector (terminal connector to 2.1x5.5 mm) back-to-back to the PCB's terminal connectors?
good video lately i'm interested in to cheap mini amps searching for low voltage like 5v 10v amp for portable bluetooth speaker project it's hard to chose from big select witch is the best performance can you recomend something?
That would be great as a kit.
Thanks
The PAM8610 has a lot better sound in my opinion, and it is louder,voltage supply is only 12V[TPA3116 -20V].
That's just the gain setting, and PAM8610 really isn't that good, there's a bit of distortion that is clearly audible on low level signals. You can run TPA3116 down to lower voltages just fine too, datasheet says 4.5V - 26V, though high end of the range is limited by component choice and cooling. Fundamentally 3116 is both more powerful and cleaner, and the lower the supply voltage, the cleaner it should run, up to where the voltage is insufficient and it clips.
Class D amplifiers are not digital, theyre pure analog.
That’s not a TPA3116d2. I believe, Thats an HT315 chip🤔
Great video . . but class 'D' does not mean 'Digital'. This is a common error.
There is no digital circuitry or digital conversion involved.
The audio signal IS converted into a pulse train but this is not digital in any sense.
here in Brazil there are a lot of these "chong" capacitors unfortunately
lol ;D Latin script is not "English characters".
imma combine this with a bluetooth receiver and see what happends !!!
I would change those Cheng x caps, they are one of the worst caps you can find, I have seen those died a lot.
Zapraszam na odsłuch TPA3116D2 2X100W Bumbox DIY ;) ua-cam.com/video/Ea0rMW2Q5iA/v-deo.html
yo... it dont fuckin work! i did it just like you said, held the Resistor with tweezers and it took. popped off the R2, but absolutely nothing comes out now!!! >:c i got a busted Amp now! is this one of those bullshit pranks? LOL? really?!