Outstanding video. The best video on this process I have seen. Very thorough and you didn't skip any of the details on how you did everything. I am going to be doing this soon on my SL500 and your video is a tremendous help. Thank you!
No wonder these cars cost a fortune new! The engineering is amazing. As an aircraft mechanic, I understand what you are going through with 10 pounds of (!) in a 5 pound box. Thanks!
At the time I made this video, the only video I found to fix the cylinders required special tools. I was only able to fix the roof lock cylinder by drilling a hole in the cylinder. Do you have a link to the video?
THANK YOU MR MARCO!!!!!! SL55 owner here, I'm chasing a mysery leak. This is so much information I needed! Am liking and subscribing, good luck with your channel!
Great video, i just purchased a sl500 and the roll bar stopped working. I also saw a puddle of fluid under the trunk. You have given me confidence to try this fix. Thanks
This was very helpful Mr. Marco. I watched it a couple of times to make darn sure I was following exactly what you had in the video. Very intuitive. Thank you so much! It works great and no leaks.
The best video I've ever watched from France! So clear and helpful. Amazing video. You are the best to work and film step by step !!! Thank you very much.
Great video! One important point is that you can have the roll bar up with the top up. I also journeyed into not using the couplers, and it just isn’t worth the trouble. Too many things have to come out and this plastic is too brittle for a nearly 20 year old car! I didn’t have the same leak you had, but I sent all of those cylinders out because it is just a matter of time! Again, great video!
One other important point, if line 60 is somehow switched with 100, the roll bar will not go down. This happened to me and I just switched the lines at the pump. No going back once those couplers are set. Awesome video
Thanks again for the informative and well made video. I have benefitted from your other videos. I did replace one trunk cylinder, but I am having additional problems that I will need to address now that you have produced this video. My reservoir empties with one full cycle of the roof but I have yet to find any fluid equal to the amount discharged from the reservoir, which has me baffled. All that fluid must be going somewhere....nothing on the ground or undercarriage. I feel like I must be driving around with an aquarium full of hydraulic fluid....a real mystery. I will address the two cylinders in the upper back of the trunk as you have pictured first before I tackle the roll bar cylinder. I have never tried to raise or lower the roll bar, but will do so now that I have viewed this video and once I check the two trunk cylinders. Thanks again for your assistance
Lets say that cylinder dies again than you just repeat the process. Can those connectors be reused or do you have to remove the line? Thank you so much. You are amazing teacher.
According to the cabriolethydraulics website, they are not reusable. You might be able to use another set of couplers but I don't think there is a lot of slack in the hose back to the pump. Might be possible but I don't know.
Best video !!!! I have oil disappearing and don’t see where it is going about 1 liter o oil filling and not a drop in the car or ground floor ….. any ideas where all this oil is
The first one to go is usually the top front lock cylinder, you have to remove the headliner to check that one. Of course you have to remove the panels to check the roll bar cylinders too. Did you check all the other places I showed in the video?
It will take quite a bit of leaked oil from the pawls to accumulate in the rocker panel below before appearing as a puddle on the ground.Once it does, you'll know whether it's the Left or Right one. I emptied my reservoir twice before it became obvious.
@MrMarco6900 could you update us if there is any problem with the couplers that you used? Usually i replace the whole links from the pump, but i'm looking into this solution, but not sure if i'll have a very small leaking in the future , i appreciate your video, you are amazing
I have not opened the panel up and looked at the connections, but it's been a few years now and I haven't lost any fluid out the tank. The top does go up and down daily, but I normally don't move the roll bar.
@@MrMarco6900 thanks for quick reply, did you have to change any other hydrolik cylender, im so afraid from the two main and the assistant one, they look so hard to reach, i hope i'll never have to replace it,, thank you for the video, it makes our life easier with this nice car
Yes, in order, I've had to replace the top lock cylinder, right frame lock, left frame lock, trunk lid drive, roll bar, two lock paws. The top lock cylinder is the only one I was able to rebuild myself.
@@MrMarco6900 i see, i already replaced the two frame locks , the left paws (now i'm doing the right pows) the trunk lid, hopefully I want need to replace the Right/left load assist cylinder(2308001572) or the right/left Main lift cylinder,(2308001272) because I could not find any video on how to replace those cylinder, i think the whole process looks scary.... i'm preparing my self for this hug job in advance .....
Hello Marco. This is a great video! It helped me find the leak in my SL 500. It’s in the roll bar actuator. I removed it. One question. I notice you cut out the passenger lock pawl and sent that for overhaul with the actuator. Why? Is that a common fail point? And the drivers side lock pawl why did you send both? We’re they leaking?
The passenger side lock paw was leaking. The driver side wasn't leaking but I did it anyway while I had everything apart. I don't know if these cylinders are a common problem. I haven't moved the roll bar in years then a week after I did actually move the roll bar, the leaks came. I think the seals dry out if you don't use them for a long time, then when you do use them they start leaking.
@@MrMarco6900 I have that type of problem!!, my both sides are leaking. i managed to removed the right side and seems like just the lock-paw is leaking, not the cylinder..is that possible? and so is the left side, the only hydraulic line i`m seeing is the one on the lock-paw
Did you not have to bleed air out of the lock pawl cylinder? I have the new one in, but it's not moving when I push the roll bar button. Given that it's a single acting cylinder, I was thinking that maybe air could be the reason... but if you didn't have to, I need to troubleshoot a little more.
@@MrMarco6900 It turns out that the line on the rebuilt cylinder was accidentally crimped shut. They sent out another one and all good, but the roll bar would not automatically go down when lowering the roof. I used the adjustment tips at the end of your video and everything is back to normal. Great video, thanks again for sharing!
You are operating the top with the switch to move it down, then it goes all the way down, then moves back up after you release the switch ? Does it move all the way back up, or a quarter of way. Go to timestamp 28:20. Do you see the little spring arm that is above the silver knob? Is that moving to the left when you operate the top then to the right when you release the switch, like the video?
@@MrMarco6900 When i did the screw driver method with a friend and pushed the bar down manually, we were able to get it to go down. As soon as we let go of the bar it pops back up all the way. I'll take a look at that spring again that you mentioned, maybe that's why it's not locking in the down position Thanks again for the help!
The Video was very informative but I would like to buy the connectors for the cylinder. Can you help with purchasing the hydraulic cylinder connectors.
Looks like they are out of stock til September, cabriolethydraulics.com/products-services/hydraulic-hose-repair-couplers/ Sorry, I don't know where else you can get them.
You can buy a kit for less than a hundred bucks...that has the main seal that goes out on all 10 hydraulic cylinder...there's no need to remove or cut the lines..you can remove the plunger on each hydraulic cylinder...replace the actual gasket that failed and install the plunger into cylinder again...the key to this is removing the plunger...there's a german guy who explains how to do this..(on UA-cam)....if you are going to this much trouble...go one more step...and fix the actual cylinder right in place on the car...I personally fixed 5 cylinders so far...seems like when one goes out another goes out soon after.....you must drill a small hole in the cylinder to release a clip that keeps the plunger inside assembly...must see (video)...it is always the same gasket on every hydraulic cylinder....carefull...don't scratch the plunger wall... Again see video first...it's slow and tedious....but quite doable....
At the time I made this video, the only videos I found to fix the cylinders required special tools. The only one I was able to fix myself was the front roof lock cylinder by drilling a hole in the cylinder. Do you have a link to the video?
Hey Marco,your video and explanation of that process is awesome!! Thanks a lot!!.. if I understood correctly, on the right side you only need to replace -or fix with Cabrio people - the lock paw, is that correct?
I'm still unsure why you had to splice the lines Do the line connectors to the cylinder not come out? Is there not 'clip' to undo to remove/install the lines?
Yes, that would have been important to mention in the video. It's my wife's fault. She reviews my video's before I post them and she should have asked that question. Proves she wasn't paying attention!!
@@MrMarco6900 Thank you. Yes I'm coming from a CLK. My CLK hydraulic cylinders had little clips to attach the lines. Now I've discovered on the SL the rollbar cylinder and lines are intergrated.
Great video, I just got my 2004 sl500. My roll bar does not move smoothly like yours. Mine kinda struggles to go up and down, so I’m wondering if my cylinder is going bad?
Don't have a part number, I've only seen them at cabriolethydraulics. At this moment they are saying "We currently have a low inventory on Hose Couplers. Please contact us for availability". They do make the hoses for the R230. "Hoses are available in sets or individually. Call us for pricing at (941) 756-1300." Click the link in the description for their website.
Any advice to bypass close trunk lid error message? I have a leak, ran out of fluid mid cycle, roof closed, front trunk not latched to finish close cycle, I manually opened trunk, topped fluid which was very low, now want to close the convertible all the way now that there is fluid in the pump, but stuck at close trunk lid message (which I have closed many times including the trunk partition). Thank you.
@MrMarco6900 Thank you! I was able to manually close the trunk. I definitely have a faulty cylinder as the carpet by the left trunk feels damp, do you have a good resource on the layout of the cylinders, so I can Starr brainstorming which ones to replace😅 Thanks!
@MrMarco6900 Hey! So I am getting around to using that Top Hydraulic website and diagram you sent to order and change my faulty cylinder. Any advice on how to go about diagnosing the faulty cylinder. I suspect the back left trunk lock cylinder as that is damp and left trunk carpet is soaked in sprayed oil. Any suggestions to test other cylinders, such as the left 2 cylinder by the trunk lock cylinder, I suspect right side and very front cylinder to be good. Thanks!
On the first post here, there is a great diagnostic PDF for the top which shows you everything you need to know about the microswitches and a lot more great info. mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-r230/253160-vario-roof-diagnostic-aid.html
I kind of know somewhat o bathe system I’ve taken a lot apart etc yet I had a crazy situation my top wasn’t working and I unplugged the ecu for the top and plugged it back in and the top started working but the windows sty a little open rollbar won’t go up and it says the top is in operation yet it is closed
If it shows the top is in operation then you won't be able to raise the roll bar. If it shows the top in operation but the top is closed, possibly S69/1 - Open, which is at the front edge of the roof. The trunk flaps not closing all the way is a common failure. Look at the diagnostic pdf and it shows you the scenarios of what happens when a micro switch is open or short. If any of the micro switches are not in the correct state it might show the top is in operation. Maybe try opening the top manually and then try to close it with the switch and see where it fails.
you mentioned your rubber trim was wavy. Mine is also wavy and i seen fluid coming from the front corner of the top. I thought that told me it was the front locking cylinder leaking. But after watching your video of you repairing the roll bar and saying your passenger trim was wavy im thinking i could be wrong and it could be my roll bar like yours?
There are 3 cylinders altogether. You have the roll bar cylinder on the passengers side only, which raises and lowers the roll bar, and the small lock paw cylinders on both sides which lock the roll bar in place.
I've haven't done that but here is a WIS procedure for it. charm.li/Mercedes%20Benz/2004/SL%20500%20%28230.475%29%20V8-5.0L%20%28113.963%29/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Body%20and%20Frame/Roll%20Bar/Service%20and%20Repair/Removal%20and%20Replacement/AR91.50-P-2000R%20Remove%2FInstall%20Roll%20Bar/
On the left is the lever/hook that keeps the rod down. At 23:18 you can see me moving the lever in order to move the rod up. On the right side is the spring that you move back which releases the lock that is inside the support assembly (which you can't see) and also releases the lever on the left side of the assembly. In normal operation when you use the button to lower or raise the roll bar the lock paw pushes in and releases the lock inside and also releases the lever on the left and you can see the spring move back on the right side. Another way to manually raise the rollbar is to release the solenoid (at 18:37) while holding the rollbar and easing it up. It will be a bit of upward force but you should be able to manage it with one hand.
If your trunk isn't locking by itself (soft close) and your trunk light on the driver door is lit, that will prevent the top operation. You can try slamming the trunk shut to get the light to go off and then try the top. Also try resetting the PSE pump fuse. I have a video to fix the soft close and it will show you where the fuse is. ua-cam.com/video/q68G0Wypsq8/v-deo.html
The light isn’t on the trunk closes good after a soft slam lol what makes no sense to me is if I unplug the rvc and plug it back in the top works no matter if the trunk partioner is open or closed as the the top closes completely the last operation doesn’t work which is the rollbar coming up. Is there a way of unlocking the rollbar or is it dangerous to release the locks ?
If you release the springs for the roll bar locks on both sides, the roll bar should come up. Just put your hand on the roll bar while it's coming up. Does it still say "top in operation" ? If so, that's why the roll bar is not coming up. Also, it will only come up automatically if it was up before you put the top down.
Will the rollbar have a lot pressure when releasing the locks ? Do I have to hold it with pressure when releasing the locks or will it come up with no problem
Come to think of it, you should only need to release the spring/lock on the passenger side to get the roll bar up. The locks on both sides keep the roll bar from going down, but the lock on the passenger side also keeps the hydraulic cylinder from going up. It has a hook attached to the cylinder which is release when you move the spring/lock back. So it shouldn't come up with too much force, depending on how much pressure is in the system, but you should put your hand on the roll bar to ease it up. It will only shoot up if the solenoid which is attached to the clevis is released, (like I show at 18:11 in the video)
MR M....ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO AND CONTENT. THANKS. I HAVE NEVER RAISED MY ROLL BAR TO KNOW IF IT EVEN WORKS, BUT MY ROOF OTHERWISE WILL FUNCTIONS BUT I HAVE A LARGE LOSS OF FLUID SIMILAR TO WHAT YOU MENTIONED WAS HAPPENING TO YOU. I DEFINITELY HAVE A LEAKING CYLINDER BACK ON THE REAR WALL OF THE TRUNK, BUT NOTHING TO THE EXTENT OF FLUID LOSS. I REPLACED THE TWO CYLINDERS ON EITHER SIDE WALLS OF THE TRUNK AND AM NOW LOOKING TO THE CYLINDER-CULPRITS THAT ARE UP UNDER THE REAR WINDOW IN THE TRUNK COMPARTMENT. CAN YOU SUGGEST BEST WAY TO ACCESS THOSE TWO? THRU THE TRUNK OR THRU THE REAR TOP PANEL WITH THE SPRING FLAPS THAT YOU SHOWED IN THIS VIDEO? THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE.
Outstanding video. The best video on this process I have seen. Very thorough and you didn't skip any of the details on how you did everything. I am going to be doing this soon on my SL500 and your video is a tremendous help. Thank you!
You did spectacular video. Short, concise and to the point!
No wonder these cars cost a fortune new! The engineering is amazing. As an aircraft mechanic, I understand what you are going through with 10 pounds of (!) in a 5 pound box. Thanks!
They just spared no expense building this car, well 90% of it anyway. $108k new for this one.
At the time I made this video, the only video I found to fix the cylinders required special tools. I was only able to fix the roof lock cylinder by drilling a hole in the cylinder. Do you have a link to the video?
THANK YOU MR MARCO!!!!!! SL55 owner here, I'm chasing a mysery leak. This is so much information I needed! Am liking and subscribing, good luck with your channel!
Great video for a complex procedure
Great video, i just purchased a sl500 and the roll bar stopped working. I also saw a puddle of fluid under the trunk. You have given me confidence to try this fix. Thanks
i'm from germany and you made the best video with all the tricks
This was very helpful Mr. Marco. I watched it a couple of times to make darn sure I was following exactly what you had in the video. Very intuitive. Thank you so much! It works great and no leaks.
The best video I've ever watched from France! So clear and helpful. Amazing video. You are the best to work and film step by step !!! Thank you very much.
Very detailed. I have all of the cylinders replaced except for the roll bar and pawl. This helps a lot. Thank you!
Great video! One important point is that you can have the roll bar up with the top up. I also journeyed into not using the couplers, and it just isn’t worth the trouble. Too many things have to come out and this plastic is too brittle for a nearly 20 year old car! I didn’t have the same leak you had, but I sent all of those cylinders out because it is just a matter of time! Again, great video!
One other important point, if line 60 is somehow switched with 100, the roll bar will not go down. This happened to me and I just switched the lines at the pump. No going back once those couplers are set. Awesome video
Thanks again for the informative and well made video. I have benefitted from your other videos. I did replace one trunk cylinder, but I am having additional problems that I will need to address now that you have produced this video. My reservoir empties with one full cycle of the roof but I have yet to find any fluid equal to the amount discharged from the reservoir, which has me baffled. All that fluid must be going somewhere....nothing on the ground or undercarriage. I feel like I must be driving around with an aquarium full of hydraulic fluid....a real mystery. I will address the two cylinders in the upper back of the trunk as you have pictured first before I tackle the roll bar cylinder. I have never tried to raise or lower the roll bar, but will do so now that I have viewed this video and once I check the two trunk cylinders. Thanks again for your assistance
Lets say that cylinder dies again than you just repeat the process. Can those connectors be reused or do you have to remove the line? Thank you so much. You are amazing teacher.
According to the cabriolethydraulics website, they are not reusable. You might be able to use another set of couplers but I don't think there is a lot of slack in the hose back to the pump. Might be possible but I don't know.
Thank you for taking the time to show us your video it was very 👍 useful
Best description for this job, Thank you so much , you help a lot
Really excellent video. I like the way you explain every step.
Best video !!!!
I have oil disappearing and don’t see where it is going about 1 liter o oil filling and not a drop in the car or ground floor ….. any ideas where all this oil is
The first one to go is usually the top front lock cylinder, you have to remove the headliner to check that one. Of course you have to remove the panels to check the roll bar cylinders too. Did you check all the other places I showed in the video?
It will take quite a bit of leaked oil from the pawls to accumulate in the rocker panel below before appearing as a puddle on the ground.Once it does, you'll know whether it's the Left or Right one. I emptied my reservoir twice before it became obvious.
GREAT VIDEO. I HAVE THE SAME CARE AND NEED TO FIX MY TOP LOCK
Here's a video for the front latch lock. ua-cam.com/video/D4rnwr9F2BA/v-deo.html
Unbelievably great video! Wow! So very informative! Obviously, since I have an SL500 like yours, I have subscribed! Thanks Mr. Marco!
@MrMarco6900 could you update us if there is any problem with the couplers that you used? Usually i replace the whole links from the pump, but i'm looking into this solution, but not sure if i'll have a very small leaking in the future , i appreciate your video, you are amazing
I have not opened the panel up and looked at the connections, but it's been a few years now and I haven't lost any fluid out the tank. The top does go up and down daily, but I normally don't move the roll bar.
@@MrMarco6900 thanks for quick reply, did you have to change any other hydrolik cylender, im so afraid from the two main and the assistant one, they look so hard to reach, i hope i'll never have to replace it,, thank you for the video, it makes our life easier with this nice car
Yes, in order, I've had to replace the top lock cylinder, right frame lock, left frame lock, trunk lid drive, roll bar, two lock paws. The top lock cylinder is the only one I was able to rebuild myself.
@@MrMarco6900 i see, i already replaced the two frame locks , the left paws (now i'm doing the right pows) the trunk lid, hopefully I want need to replace the Right/left load assist cylinder(2308001572) or the right/left Main lift cylinder,(2308001272) because I could not find any video on how to replace those cylinder, i think the whole process looks scary.... i'm preparing my self for this hug job in advance .....
great job great movie. thanks to you my repair has become easier
Hello Marco. This is a great video! It helped me find the leak in my SL 500. It’s in the roll bar actuator. I removed it. One question. I notice you cut out the passenger lock pawl and sent that for overhaul with the actuator. Why? Is that a common fail point? And the drivers side lock pawl why did you send both? We’re they leaking?
The passenger side lock paw was leaking. The driver side wasn't leaking but I did it anyway while I had everything apart. I don't know if these cylinders are a common problem. I haven't moved the roll bar in years then a week after I did actually move the roll bar, the leaks came. I think the seals dry out if you don't use them for a long time, then when you do use them they start leaking.
@@MrMarco6900 I have that type of problem!!, my both sides are leaking. i managed to removed the right side and seems like just the lock-paw is leaking, not the cylinder..is that possible? and so is the left side, the only hydraulic line i`m seeing is the one on the lock-paw
@@daniellichowid8732 If you go to time stamp 14:39 you can see the hydraulic lines to the roll bar cylinder. They are hiding behind the cylinder.
Great video, very helpful! Thanks
Did you not have to bleed air out of the lock pawl cylinder? I have the new one in, but it's not moving when I push the roll bar button. Given that it's a single acting cylinder, I was thinking that maybe air could be the reason... but if you didn't have to, I need to troubleshoot a little more.
I didn't have to bleed it, I read that it bleeds itself. Maybe check the microswitch on the passenger side whether it is open or closed.
@@MrMarco6900
It turns out that the line on the rebuilt cylinder was accidentally crimped shut. They sent out another one and all good, but the roll bar would not automatically go down when lowering the roof. I used the adjustment tips at the end of your video and everything is back to normal. Great video, thanks again for sharing!
Thank you great repair.
Man i ordered those couplers from that place in Florida where i live , I'm going to do it tomorrow
Do you have the part number for the couplers please
@@JoseCanales-e4w I only saw the text now , ill check the part number when i get back home
Great video, i was able to use this to get the roll bar to roll down. However, it wont stay locked down, it just springs back up, any ideas?
You are operating the top with the switch to move it down, then it goes all the way down, then moves back up after you release the switch ? Does it move all the way back up, or a quarter of way. Go to timestamp 28:20. Do you see the little spring arm that is above the silver knob? Is that moving to the left when you operate the top then to the right when you release the switch, like the video?
@@MrMarco6900 When i did the screw driver method with a friend and pushed the bar down manually, we were able to get it to go down. As soon as we let go of the bar it pops back up all the way. I'll take a look at that spring again that you mentioned, maybe that's why it's not locking in the down position Thanks again for the help!
Awesome video! Thanks!
Awesome video, thank you
The Video was very informative but I would like to buy the connectors for the cylinder. Can you help with purchasing the hydraulic cylinder connectors.
Looks like they are out of stock til September, cabriolethydraulics.com/products-services/hydraulic-hose-repair-couplers/
Sorry, I don't know where else you can get them.
Greetings , your video is very helpful. How can i access the load assist cylinder that you just mentioned while removing the panels plz
Sorry Georges, I haven't had to mess with that one yet so I don't know. It doesn't look easy.
Thank you for the quick reply
You can buy a kit for less than a hundred bucks...that has the main seal that goes out on all 10 hydraulic cylinder...there's no need to remove or cut the lines..you can remove the plunger on each hydraulic cylinder...replace the actual gasket that failed and install the plunger into cylinder again...the key to this is removing the plunger...there's a german guy who explains how to do this..(on UA-cam)....if you are going to this much trouble...go one more step...and fix the actual cylinder right in place on the car...I personally fixed 5 cylinders so far...seems like when one goes out another goes out soon after.....you must drill a small hole in the cylinder to release a clip that keeps the plunger inside assembly...must see (video)...it is always the same gasket on every hydraulic cylinder....carefull...don't scratch the plunger wall... Again see video first...it's slow and tedious....but quite doable....
At the time I made this video, the only videos I found to fix the cylinders required special tools. The only one I was able to fix myself was the front roof lock cylinder by drilling a hole in the cylinder. Do you have a link to the video?
Great Video.. Thankyou 😊
Hey Marco,your video and explanation of that process is awesome!! Thanks a lot!!.. if I understood correctly, on the right side you only need to replace -or fix with Cabrio people - the lock paw, is that correct?
Left side (driver side, USA) has just the one lock paw cylinder, right side has the roll bar cylinder and one lock paw cylinder
great job!
thank you
I'm still unsure why you had to splice the lines
Do the line connectors to the cylinder not come out?
Is there not 'clip' to undo to remove/install the lines?
Ah....disregard. I saw in another video that the lines DO NOT disconnect from the cylinder :(
Yes, that would have been important to mention in the video. It's my wife's fault. She reviews my video's before I post them and she should have asked that question. Proves she wasn't paying attention!!
@@MrMarco6900 Thank you. Yes I'm coming from a CLK. My CLK hydraulic cylinders had little clips to attach the lines. Now I've discovered on the SL the rollbar cylinder and lines are intergrated.
Amazing job bro
Great video, I just got my 2004 sl500. My roll bar does not move smoothly like yours. Mine kinda struggles to go up and down, so I’m wondering if my cylinder is going bad?
Could be....I think the only way to really tell is to take off that side panel and see if you have fluid leaking down in there.
Mr Marco i have a leak but its not coming from the hydraulic cylinder it's coming from a hose. do you have a part number for that splice kit?
Don't have a part number, I've only seen them at cabriolethydraulics. At this moment they are saying "We currently have a low inventory on Hose Couplers. Please contact us for availability". They do make the hoses for the R230. "Hoses are available in sets or individually. Call us for pricing at (941) 756-1300." Click the link in the description for their website.
Any advice to bypass close trunk lid error message? I have a leak, ran out of fluid mid cycle, roof closed, front trunk not latched to finish close cycle, I manually opened trunk, topped fluid which was very low, now want to close the convertible all the way now that there is fluid in the pump, but stuck at close trunk lid message (which I have closed many times including the trunk partition). Thank you.
This video shows how to manually open and close the roof. You should be able to get it from this video. ua-cam.com/video/OZt8nvGhMGw/v-deo.html
@MrMarco6900 Thank you! I was able to manually close the trunk. I definitely have a faulty cylinder as the carpet by the left trunk feels damp, do you have a good resource on the layout of the cylinders, so I can Starr brainstorming which ones to replace😅 Thanks!
Here is a diagram of the cylinders and location. tophydraulics.com/content/51-mercedes-benz-r230-info
@@MrMarco6900 Thank you, this is perfect!
@MrMarco6900 Hey! So I am getting around to using that Top Hydraulic website and diagram you sent to order and change my faulty cylinder. Any advice on how to go about diagnosing the faulty cylinder. I suspect the back left trunk lock cylinder as that is damp and left trunk carpet is soaked in sprayed oil. Any suggestions to test other cylinders, such as the left 2 cylinder by the trunk lock cylinder, I suspect right side and very front cylinder to be good. Thanks!
Nice video I have a question which switch detects the top open or closed is it by the window or the one on the left rear trunk
On the first post here, there is a great diagnostic PDF for the top which shows you everything you need to know about the microswitches and a lot more great info.
mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-r230/253160-vario-roof-diagnostic-aid.html
I kind of know somewhat o bathe system I’ve taken a lot apart etc yet I had a crazy situation my top wasn’t working and I unplugged the ecu for the top and plugged it back in and the top started working but the windows sty a little open rollbar won’t go up and it says the top is in operation yet it is closed
So I don’t know which is the actual switch for the rollbar to go up or down and the windows I have tried everything thanks
If it shows the top is in operation then you won't be able to raise the roll bar. If it shows the top in operation but the top is closed, possibly S69/1 - Open, which is at the front edge of the roof. The trunk flaps not closing all the way is a common failure. Look at the diagnostic pdf and it shows you the scenarios of what happens when a micro switch is open or short. If any of the micro switches are not in the correct state it might show the top is in operation. Maybe try opening the top manually and then try to close it with the switch and see where it fails.
How many switches are there one by the window and the other one by the driver side rear ? Are there any other ones
Did you get any messages on the cluster about the roll bar have to be up all the way ?
I'm sorry Marco, I don't recall if I saw a message or not. I'm getting old, its not fresh in my mind anymore.
you mentioned your rubber trim was wavy. Mine is also wavy and i seen fluid coming from the front corner of the top. I thought that told me it was the front locking cylinder leaking. But after watching your video of you repairing the roll bar and saying your passenger trim was wavy im thinking i could be wrong and it could be my roll bar like yours?
If your passenger side trim piece at the top of the window is wavy, then yes your front locking cylinder is leaking.
@@MrMarco6900 Thanks for confirming. Do you know where to buy that replacement rubber?
Did the motor make running noises when the top wouldnt open?
Yes, if it's low on fluid you should here the motor running but it will move very slowly or not at all.
Did you work on two cylinders or one? I thought you said there was no cylinder on the driver’s side. I’m confused.
There are 3 cylinders altogether. You have the roll bar cylinder on the passengers side only, which raises and lowers the roll bar, and the small lock paw cylinders on both sides which lock the roll bar in place.
Hi how do I take just the roll bar off? I need to re trim the bar. Let me know please
I've haven't done that but here is a WIS procedure for it. charm.li/Mercedes%20Benz/2004/SL%20500%20%28230.475%29%20V8-5.0L%20%28113.963%29/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Body%20and%20Frame/Roll%20Bar/Service%20and%20Repair/Removal%20and%20Replacement/AR91.50-P-2000R%20Remove%2FInstall%20Roll%20Bar/
@@MrMarco6900 thank you! 🤝
I looked for the part number , they didn't include it
Give me you phone number , I'll text you some pictures
On section 28.54 the part on the left is the lock? Or the right side of that cylinder
On the left is the lever/hook that keeps the rod down. At 23:18 you can see me moving the lever in order to move the rod up. On the right side is the spring that you move back which releases the lock that is inside the support assembly (which you can't see) and also releases the lever on the left side of the assembly. In normal operation when you use the button to lower or raise the roll bar the lock paw pushes in and releases the lock inside and also releases the lever on the left and you can see the spring move back on the right side. Another way to manually raise the rollbar is to release the solenoid (at 18:37) while holding the rollbar and easing it up. It will be a bit of upward force but you should be able to manage it with one hand.
Does anyone have the couplers parts number, I need to order just the couplers thanks
Looks like Cabriolet Hydraulics have changed their website since this video. Looks like you probably need to call them to order the couplers.
The power locks work but the trunk doesn’t lock by itself is that probably a trunk lock problem or is that also the problem I’m having
If your trunk isn't locking by itself (soft close) and your trunk light on the driver door is lit, that will prevent the top operation. You can try slamming the trunk shut to get the light to go off and then try the top. Also try resetting the PSE pump fuse. I have a video to fix the soft close and it will show you where the fuse is. ua-cam.com/video/q68G0Wypsq8/v-deo.html
The light isn’t on the trunk closes good after a soft slam lol what makes no sense to me is if I unplug the rvc and plug it back in the top works no matter if the trunk partioner is open or closed as the the top closes completely the last operation doesn’t work which is the rollbar coming up. Is there a way of unlocking the rollbar or is it dangerous to release the locks ?
If you release the springs for the roll bar locks on both sides, the roll bar should come up. Just put your hand on the roll bar while it's coming up. Does it still say "top in operation" ? If so, that's why the roll bar is not coming up. Also, it will only come up automatically if it was up before you put the top down.
Will the rollbar have a lot pressure when releasing the locks ? Do I have to hold it with pressure when releasing the locks or will it come up with no problem
Come to think of it, you should only need to release the spring/lock on the passenger side to get the roll bar up. The locks on both sides keep the roll bar from going down, but the lock on the passenger side also keeps the hydraulic cylinder from going up. It has a hook attached to the cylinder which is release when you move the spring/lock back. So it shouldn't come up with too much force, depending on how much pressure is in the system, but you should put your hand on the roll bar to ease it up. It will only shoot up if the solenoid which is attached to the clevis is released, (like I show at 18:11 in the video)
brain surgery............ too much .....take to shop
MR M....ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO AND CONTENT. THANKS. I HAVE NEVER RAISED MY ROLL BAR TO KNOW IF IT EVEN WORKS, BUT MY ROOF OTHERWISE WILL FUNCTIONS BUT I HAVE A LARGE LOSS OF FLUID SIMILAR TO WHAT YOU MENTIONED WAS HAPPENING TO YOU. I DEFINITELY HAVE A LEAKING CYLINDER BACK ON THE REAR WALL OF THE TRUNK, BUT NOTHING TO THE EXTENT OF FLUID LOSS. I REPLACED THE TWO CYLINDERS ON EITHER SIDE WALLS OF THE TRUNK AND AM NOW LOOKING TO THE CYLINDER-CULPRITS THAT ARE UP UNDER THE REAR WINDOW IN THE TRUNK COMPARTMENT. CAN YOU SUGGEST BEST WAY TO ACCESS THOSE TWO? THRU THE TRUNK OR THRU THE REAR TOP PANEL WITH THE SPRING FLAPS THAT YOU SHOWED IN THIS VIDEO? THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE.
I haven't had to mess with those cylinders yet so I won't be much help there.
@@MrMarco6900 Ok, thanks, much time had passed and I am only getting back into the repairs. Thanks again