OK I just did this and it was not as bad as I was expecting. A couple of tips: Cut the vent with a utility knife (use a new blade- you get a much cleaner cut and the plastic is pretty thin) and to help place the tape, peel away just an inch or two of the backing from the top of each piece and then place it where you want it. It is easy to peel the backing off after the top is in place without having to mess with the whole piece sticking where you don't want it. And for those of you thinking of tackling this via the heater core- that is way more work (removing the whole wiper mechanism and disconnecting the coolant lines (and re-bleeding them!) no way! Thank you again Aaron! It's a few months away but I look forward to some winter top down driving with a functioning heater!
I used your suggestion, and it worked like a charm. I also recommend purchasing an endoscope camera so you can inspect your work and guide your hand to place the tape correctly. Lastly, please check all stages of your heat starting at 79 to ensure you have an excellent hot air flow. It's also a good idea to test your cold air.
Just did this today, was easier than I thought. When done, with the center vent still cut open. Close all the other vents, and direct all air to be cold and to only come out the vents. Close the right and left vents. That way all the air only comes out the slit open center vent. Got rid of a lot of foam that way as the air volume was huge and with the vent slit open, it was easier for the foam to fly out, as opposed to having to go up the vent then out the center vent . Heat works great now. I couldn't do it like the video with long pieces of tape, my hands are too big I guess, so I made many smaller pieces. About 2" by 3". And made sure all the holes were plugged. All good now :) thanks again for the video
I just did this. I didn't have a sawy thingie so I used a Sawzall and my car now blows lava like air. Thank you. You extended my driving time by a month or two. Also I used gorilla tape. It was what I had and holds up great over long time.
Very nice. Thank you. I just finished this to fix the first door. (My hands are too big to to the back, so I had to use the ‘through the heater core’ for the back). I was able to split the duct at the top with a pry tool. The duct separated down to the first ‘plastic spot weld’. That’s were I started my cut. It’s a little cleaner, and provided a little more room. Again, thanks. I don’t think I would have tried this without you video.
Also from me a big thanks for the video. My Boxster is also blowing foam pieces now and then from the vents on the driver and passenger sides, not so much from the vents in the middle.
AAron, You are a crack , without your excellent videos many of us Porsche Boxster owners would be a bit or a lot lost, Cheers !! Keep up with your Vids... I'm a great admirer and follower from the UK and Barcelona - Spain
Ah ha! So that's what all the little foam bits coming out of the vents is from. .....and the luke warm air when the heater is turned on ( rarely in Florida lol) Thanks for the video. This is a great help!
Wonderful again. Once again. (BTW, do you recall I asked you about the 2 droopy Center vents? Well, I fixed them. Quite easy. Pull the console out and separate the 2 vents from the casing. You will see a little pad on each vent that is supposed to rub on a semi circular plastic piece. Tension from the pad on the piece holds the vent in different positions. The pad dries off and stop rubbing . So I put some sticky Velcro tape on the semi circular piece (the soft Velcro side) and it worked. Thanks. I don’t have a camera. So I did not film it.)
Fantastic video. I have had this problem for years and just lived with luke warm air. Followed your instructions and it works like brand new... blows HOT air now. Took about 1.5hr and I had to buy the saw but still a cheap fix vs dealership who couldn't figure out the problem. Agree, Such poor design by Porsche.
Extremely helpful and the process worked well. I used a utility knife to cut the vent instead of an oscillating saw so the edges of the cut were much cleaner. My local HD did not have flue tape, only dryer vent tape. I don't think the 212 degree temp rating will be an issue but it's a film tape and not a foil tape so was not nearly as easy to install. The black foam was totally gone from my deflector plates but the thin foam scrim that was beneath it was still attached. I removed that before taping over the holes. So far so good but now that I've done it it's an easy fix if the tape doesn't hold up.
Thanks for posting this. Some other videos recommend accessing the heater core through the front trunk. This is the only way to access all the blend doors. I am fixing my HVAC damper issue in conjunction with adding an amp to power my door speakers. (I upgraded the doors to better quality 6.5-inch woofers.) I'll be using your amp install video tomorrow when I complete the second half of my project.
Thanks for posting. I just followed your video. The repair wasn’t all that bad. Two things - I hope that the tape is sticky enough to last, and, it would have been easier if I were a smaller person with not so large hands. Any, thanks! Now to your sub woofer installation video.
If these flap doors are what direct hot heater air into the vents, I would think that when the foam is gone some hot air would get mixed with cold air when AC is on cool? My AC doesn't cool as much as before and I think I'd rather try this before throwing $$$ at the AC system.
+Javier Soler they are what direct air into the heater core (which heats the air before coming out of the vents). But yes some people have told me this also helped the AC blow colder as well. It’s a cheap first thing to try anyway :)
Thanks for the video and all the comments below! A couple of questions about this repair. My car has just started to blow some pieces of the foam through the vents, so it's in its initial stage. So, first, should I allow it more time to run its course to reduce the amount of potential cleaning of remaining foam? Does it come off that easy? And second, do you foresee any issue with the tape being on the backside of the vents rather than the front because of the direction of the airflow? Meaning in time, the airflow and temperature changes could loosen the tape? I'm probably overthinking this, but would like a "peer check" on this. Thanks again & happy motoring!
+Greg Whaley you’re welcome! Whether or not to wait is really up to you. I don’t think pulling it off will be a big deal if it’s already starting to deteriorate. But again, mine was already all gone as you can see. I don’t think the side of the blend door that the tape goes on will matter. It sticks really well and I don’t foresee it failing, at least in the time I will probably own the car.
That seems like an amazing job taking it from the comments. However what is intriguing to me is what is the purpose for the manufacturer to create such an elaborate system with this perforated metal flaps covered with foam, what is it intended to do rather than simply build it the way we are now fixing it?? Thanks again for another good video.
Thanks for a nice video. My heating is ok, but my side vents are giving poor airflow. Maybe it could have something to do with this missing foam. Seems lika an quite easy task to check when using this method.
Just did the same repair on mine, best way to repair this I think. Go slow and get the tape in the right place and no more foam showers when you fire up the AC.
Other than the pain in the arse that is having to fish out pieces of foam trapped in my side vents every other week, one of the upsides to living in Australia is I rarely drive the car without the a/c on a low temp setting. So the heater almost never gets used. The downside of all that sunshine is getting burned every time I put the roof down in summer :-)
OK I don't mean to be a Karen, but watch out for the sun. Last year had a skin cancer taken off my arm right where it sticks out the window... Now I use sunscreen... PS - been to Oz a couple of times - nice.
i love having the microphone(?) coming out of the blank switch on the left bezel. I'm doing that for sure, its currently tied around that little shelf under the steering wheel lol.
This works but the better method is to remove the heating core and actually cut the metal flap out. There are DIY guides on line. With the flap removed you can do a really nice job taping both sides.
+Joe-serious Howard well that’s “another” way, I wouldn’t say “better”. Will that last longer? Probably. But it will take at least 5 times longer. Mine is still working perfectly and I know I won’t ever have to fix it 5 more times in my lifetime.
Great video! I went to do this project in my 2000 986S. But found out that when I turned the car on and changed the temp on the AC controls the doors didn’t move… I have already changed the relay to no success. Any ideas?? Thanks!
+Adam Winklmann thank you! Unfortunately I don’t know what your issue might be, but maybe someone else can chime in. Or feel free to join my Facebook group and ask there.
Loving all the boxster videos! I replaced the heater core on my 2003 last fall and did part of the job you did. I was only able to tape up one of the vents and you had much better access than through the heater core.
Hi, Can you tell me which method would be easier? If the trunk is, can you send me instructions? I would appreciate it modonnell9@comcast.net thank you.
Thanks for a helpful video. From a design POV, I'm struggling to understand why those flaps would not be solid. From what I can tell you are saying those metal flaps, which a motor can rotate depending on the climate control settings, originally are covered w/ the foam fuzz (that after many years starts coming out the vents). And you are saying when the foam fuzz is gone from the flaps, the flaps can't do their job to direct the air properly, and thus the heater doesn't function well. But if these flaps didn't have the holes to begin with (and were just solid flaps) - wouldn't that be better? I'm missing something here and hoping you can explain - having seen it yourself.
easier to throttle position like they do by degree when they're not solid. i will be following this video but poking holes in my ducting tape to allow some air bleed. hopefully that strains the little motors less. replacing them would be a huuuuge pain.
Hey can this issue also cause fog on the lower windshield when turning on cool a/c? That’s what’s been happening to my cayman besides the black foam blowing out of the vents.
+BBS Records cold air being blown into glass will cause this If it is humid. Press the little oval button on the climate control panel that is supposed to be a picture of a vent and only the front vents will blow air.
Hey! My porsche 986 1998 recently just stopped blowing hot air through the A/C (there is no foam im the vents) it only blows cold air, have tried to turn it up to max multiple times to see if there is any heat, but there is no hot air blowing through. I can’t seem to find any articles on this exact issues. Do you have any suggestions?
I have not checked if the foam is missing from the flapps yet, because i’am not sure that this is the issue, and i don’t really feel like destroying the back of the dashboard if its not the issue.
@@HelpMeDIY Hey man! Decided to take a look today, sadly for me the foam wasn't missing. Atleast i know how to remove everything and put it back now. Do you have any other suggestions?
@@Trenbroskis If you happened to do a coolant flush recently, another common cause is there being air instead of coolant in the heater core. You could try burping the cooling system and see if that helps.
@@HelpMeDIY Eagering waiting for the posting for 987!!! I was wondering as the radio / CDR24 may be a bit lower than 986 and not sure you can remove those vents like 986. I can see the lower part of the duct (when I took the CDR24 out) but not sure we can get "free" access from the top like 986. Please work on it and post!!!!
That was good to see that it is not a vacuum door, as we know Mr. Murphy would make it even more fun 🤣😂🙃. I hope this doesn't happen with my 987.2, but wish 🤞in one and poop 💩in the other ✋😳!
Thank you again, Aaron for another useful video. I have had the bits of foam as well as no heat so I'd like to give this a try. I'm curious though, after you did this have you noticed any rattling or noise from the cut vent while driving?
*Can someone explain whats actually going on here? If there was foam on there before, surely that means SOME air was meant to flow through the holes? Why block them completely?*
I've been meaning to do this for years. This approach is a big help. Thanks for doing this video. C'mon Porsche you have to do better than this. Poor design.
+adriangale I don’t know for sure but I would assume so since pretty much the whole front of the cars are the same. Let me know if you try out and find out one way or the other!
@@HelpMeDIY I thought it was a thermostat because the rennsport form made it sound like the foam will just stop you being able to switch the aim of the air, not lose hot/cold. My local Porsche mechanic has another 996 that offered to be the test car for this which prompted me to search. Honestly doesn’t sound too bad if I can get some grabby tools from Harbor Freight to place the tape
As a 996 owner all I can say is wtf was Porsche engineers thinking in making these blend doors with holes covered with foam. Weight saving? Only the dumb ars Porsche, VW, Audi would do this crap.
I think it's a shame that VW/AUDI/PORSCHE etc uses cheap foam on the ventilation flaps way back inside the dash where it's almost inaccessible. Talk about cheap! My 95 GTI VR6 did this as has my 01 Beetle TDI. I just fixed my Beetle's heat flaps the same way two days ago. I think I'll pass on future VW products just because of this since I keep my cars for many years (19 for the Beetle so far).
Do not do this. You can go in from the frunk by removing the battery, cowling, and heater core to get access to repair this vent door. You do not have to chop up your A/C housing to fix this problem.
+Random Internet User there are other ways to do this, of course. They are all much harder and time consuming. I think saying “do not do this” is short sighted. It’s been working perfectly for me (and tons of others) with no issues. Simple and cheap fix.
@@HelpMeDIY I'm sorry you made this mistake but, no, the other methods for fixing this are not harder and don't require hacking up the ac housing module with a power tool deep inside your dashboard. It requires pulling the battery that's designed to come out and there's an access door. I appreciate your other videos very much but this was not the right way to fix this. I would not do that to my 996 Turbo or my daughters 986. I would go in from the top where there's literally a door to access the problem. Porsche are designed to be easy to work on, this is just not the best or most effective way to fix that VW ac module. It affected many vw's not just Porsche.
@@randominternetuser2888 This is the first I've heard of an access door to get to the problem area. Others only talk about removing the heater core from the car... that's what I was referring to. If there's an access panel I'm curious... I'll look for it the next time I have the battery out. Thanks for the more detailed description of a possible alternative approach.
@@randominternetuser2888 don't think the frunk way is really all that much better. You still have to cut off the top of the plastic to pull the pivot, plus only have access to one of the flap doors. So you'll still somehow need to get to the second flap door to seal it up. I do agree that the frunk method lets you seal up the larger flap door on your workbench, which is nice. Given both methods involve some cutting but this method allows you access to both doors, plus takes nowhere near as much time, I feel this way is the better way to go
Excellent Video. Same fix for most VWs & Audis as well.
+Radiograph Pictures thank you!
OK I just did this and it was not as bad as I was expecting. A couple of tips: Cut the vent with a utility knife (use a new blade- you get a much cleaner cut and the plastic is pretty thin) and to help place the tape, peel away just an inch or two of the backing from the top of each piece and then place it where you want it. It is easy to peel the backing off after the top is in place without having to mess with the whole piece sticking where you don't want it. And for those of you thinking of tackling this via the heater core- that is way more work (removing the whole wiper mechanism and disconnecting the coolant lines (and re-bleeding them!) no way! Thank you again Aaron! It's a few months away but I look forward to some winter top down driving with a functioning heater!
+JazzPianoOnline.com you got it, and thanks for the additional info!
I used your suggestion, and it worked like a charm. I also recommend purchasing an endoscope camera so you can inspect your work and guide your hand to place the tape correctly. Lastly, please check all stages of your heat starting at 79 to ensure you have an excellent hot air flow. It's also a good idea to test your cold air.
Just did this today, was easier than I thought. When done, with the center vent still cut open. Close all the other vents, and direct all air to be cold and to only come out the vents. Close the right and left vents. That way all the air only comes out the slit open center vent. Got rid of a lot of foam that way as the air volume was huge and with the vent slit open, it was easier for the foam to fly out, as opposed to having to go up the vent then out the center vent . Heat works great now. I couldn't do it like the video with long pieces of tape, my hands are too big I guess, so I made many smaller pieces. About 2" by 3". And made sure all the holes were plugged. All good now :) thanks again for the video
+kmarei glad to help! 🍻
I can't believe there aren't more videos on this. You're a life saver I'm gonna do this asap
+Gentian Pervana you’re welcome. Hope you’re a subscriber now! 😉
I wondered why small chunks of foam were coming out the vents! now I know and can fix this!
+brian Mitchell 😎
I just did this. I didn't have a sawy thingie so I used a Sawzall and my car now blows lava like air. Thank you. You extended my driving time by a month or two. Also I used gorilla tape. It was what I had and holds up great over long time.
+SlimWill you’re welcome! 🍻
I followed this video and was able to fix my heat issue in just over an hour on my 996. Thanks!
+Lee Kincaid awesome!
Did this today for my 996 and...wow! It made a tremendous improvement. Thanks for sharing!
+Jason King it’s really a night and day difference isn’t it?!
Is there any difference with the 996? Or is it just the same?
@@adriangale Same. This worked perfectly.
I just did mine. it worked well. It took around an hour to do. Thank you.
+Damian De Rozairo awesome! 🍻
Very nice. Thank you. I just finished this to fix the first door. (My hands are too big to to the back, so I had to use the ‘through the heater core’ for the back).
I was able to split the duct at the top with a pry tool. The duct separated down to the first ‘plastic spot weld’. That’s were I started my cut. It’s a little cleaner, and provided a little more room. Again, thanks. I don’t think I would have tried this without you video.
Thanks for sharing your method!
Also from me a big thanks for the video. My Boxster is also blowing foam pieces now and then from the vents on the driver and passenger sides, not so much from the vents in the middle.
Glad to help!
AAron, You are a crack , without your excellent videos many of us Porsche Boxster owners would be a bit or a lot lost, Cheers !! Keep up with your Vids... I'm a great admirer and follower from the UK and Barcelona - Spain
+Ferdy Romero aww thanks! I think… “a crack” is a good thing in the UK/Spain I assume? 😂
Nice! I just fixed my 996 turbo this way.
+christurbo951 woot! 🍻
Thanks for this. I just did the repair to my 996 - first time I've had heat since I bought it!
+John McKeown 😎😎😎🍻
Ah ha! So that's what all the little foam bits coming out of the vents is from.
.....and the luke warm air when the heater is turned on ( rarely in Florida lol) Thanks for the video. This is a great help!
+Shamileification yup, that’s why! 🍻
Wonderful again. Once again. (BTW, do you recall I asked you about the 2 droopy Center vents? Well, I fixed them. Quite easy. Pull the console out and separate the 2 vents from the casing. You will see a little pad on each vent that is supposed to rub on a semi circular plastic piece. Tension from the pad on the piece holds the vent in different positions. The pad dries off and stop rubbing . So I put some sticky Velcro tape on the semi circular piece (the soft Velcro side) and it worked. Thanks. I don’t have a camera. So I did not film it.)
Hey great job! And thanks for the info. May come in handy one day 👏
Thank you. This worked great on my 2000S. I’d put it off for months, but it really is an easy repair. I’m looking forward to HVAC working again.
+Richard Culpepper 🍻
Fantastic video. I have had this problem for years and just lived with luke warm air. Followed your instructions and it works like brand new... blows HOT air now. Took about 1.5hr and I had to buy the saw but still a cheap fix vs dealership who couldn't figure out the problem. Agree, Such poor design by Porsche.
+Cary Sewall thank you! Hope you’re a subscriber now 😉
Extremely helpful and the process worked well. I used a utility knife to cut the vent instead of an oscillating saw so the edges of the cut were much cleaner. My local HD did not have flue tape, only dryer vent tape. I don't think the 212 degree temp rating will be an issue but it's a film tape and not a foil tape so was not nearly as easy to install. The black foam was totally gone from my deflector plates but the thin foam scrim that was beneath it was still attached. I removed that before taping over the holes. So far so good but now that I've done it it's an easy fix if the tape doesn't hold up.
+John Rowe glad it helped! Not bad at all right? Good tip on the utility knife.
@@HelpMeDIY Definitely accurate on the time estimate, an easy fix.
Thanks for the help. Did this today to my 996 and I finally have heat!
+Frank Venezia perfect! Hope you’re a subscriber now 😉
Thanks for posting this. Some other videos recommend accessing the heater core through the front trunk. This is the only way to access all the blend doors. I am fixing my HVAC damper issue in conjunction with adding an amp to power my door speakers. (I upgraded the doors to better quality 6.5-inch woofers.) I'll be using your amp install video tomorrow when I complete the second half of my project.
+Kevin's Boxster yeah there are a couple ways to do most things. Good luck with the install!
There is another ultimate way to do this, remove the entire dash without cutting any stuff up
Worked like a charm and gave the A/C a boost as well. Thanks so much!
+Phil Mailloux you got it! Cheers! 🍻
Thank you. My 986 was taking about 15 minutes to warm up, but after this mod it now only takes a couple minutes.
+Dutch K9 you’re welcome, that’s great!
Thanks for posting. I just followed your video. The repair wasn’t all that bad. Two things - I hope that the tape is sticky enough to last, and, it would have been easier if I were a smaller person with not so large hands. Any, thanks! Now to your sub woofer installation video.
+Marc H enjoy the heat and improved AC!
Thanks for the guide, I would have never of known it was possible.
You’re welcome!
Another great video Aaron, saw it before but now I needed it. Thanks Bud
+Kevin Sheehan enjoy your hot and cold air! 🍻
I'm going to try it.. Sure hopes it works!!
It will 😉
If these flap doors are what direct hot heater air into the vents, I would think that when the foam is gone some hot air would get mixed with cold air when AC is on cool? My AC doesn't cool as much as before and I think I'd rather try this before throwing $$$ at the AC system.
+Javier Soler they are what direct air into the heater core (which heats the air before coming out of the vents). But yes some people have told me this also helped the AC blow colder as well. It’s a cheap first thing to try anyway :)
Thanks for the video and all the comments below! A couple of questions about this repair. My car has just started to blow some pieces of the foam through the vents, so it's in its initial stage. So, first, should I allow it more time to run its course to reduce the amount of potential cleaning of remaining foam? Does it come off that easy? And second, do you foresee any issue with the tape being on the backside of the vents rather than the front because of the direction of the airflow? Meaning in time, the airflow and temperature changes could loosen the tape? I'm probably overthinking this, but would like a "peer check" on this. Thanks again & happy motoring!
+Greg Whaley you’re welcome!
Whether or not to wait is really up to you. I don’t think pulling it off will be a big deal if it’s already starting to deteriorate. But again, mine was already all gone as you can see. I don’t think the side of the blend door that the tape goes on will matter. It sticks really well and I don’t foresee it failing, at least in the time I will probably own the car.
That seems like an amazing job taking it from the comments. However what is intriguing to me is what is the purpose for the manufacturer to create such an elaborate system with this perforated metal flaps covered with foam, what is it intended to do rather than simply build it the way we are now fixing it?? Thanks again for another good video.
+Mauricio Baez I can’t answer that, but you’re welcome 🍻
it is lighter.
Thanks for a nice video. My heating is ok, but my side vents are giving poor airflow. Maybe it could have something to do with this missing foam. Seems lika an quite easy task to check when using this method.
Yes, and you can use a vacuum hose to suck out the foam bits to help.
Just did the same repair on mine, best way to repair this I think. Go slow and get the tape in the right place and no more foam showers when you fire up the AC.
+Kevin O'Riordan definitely the fastest way! 😉 A little patience goes a long way here.
I plan to do it on my 2001 Boxster S.
+@wishfulbuy let us know how it goes! 🍻
Other than the pain in the arse that is having to fish out pieces of foam trapped in my side vents every other week, one of the upsides to living in Australia is I rarely drive the car without the a/c on a low temp setting. So the heater almost never gets used. The downside of all that sunshine is getting burned every time I put the roof down in summer :-)
+Old Man In A Boxster I understand that well from living in Florida most of my life 😎
OK I don't mean to be a Karen, but watch out for the sun. Last year had a skin cancer taken off my arm right where it sticks out the window... Now I use sunscreen... PS - been to Oz a couple of times - nice.
Looks like you are saving my bacon again here !
This morning, I was wondering where this odd black fluff on the floor was from 😅
+@thefreedomguyuk haha we all get it eventually 🍻
This is absolutely awesome. Thanks man you rock!
+Brian Sturgill yessss 😁😎
i love having the microphone(?) coming out of the blank switch on the left bezel. I'm doing that for sure, its currently tied around that little shelf under the steering wheel lol.
Yes, and I was pleasantly surprised how perfect the fit was with the drill bit :)
This is in my future. Thanks.
+@SkywalkerPMs you got it! 🍻
Perfect, nice work 👍🏼
+Ab Tappy thanks! 🍻
Thank you for all your videos
+Omer Ford you’re welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing
This works but the better method is to remove the heating core and actually cut the metal flap out. There are DIY guides on line. With the flap removed you can do a really nice job taping both sides.
+Joe-serious Howard well that’s “another” way, I wouldn’t say “better”. Will that last longer? Probably. But it will take at least 5 times longer. Mine is still working perfectly and I know I won’t ever have to fix it 5 more times in my lifetime.
This was very helpful, just wish I had smaller hands!
+Brent Haselhoff child labor isn’t a bad thing here… 😂
Happened yesterday on my 02 track turbo. No A/C. Hot sitting on the false grid.
+David Cooper comfort on the false grid is paramount! 😁🍻
Where did you get the usb plug it looks way awesome
+WGL Gee thanks! It came with my head unit.
priceless video. thanks so so much
+bruce achiles you got it! 🍻
Great video! I went to do this project in my 2000 986S. But found out that when I turned the car on and changed the temp on the AC controls the doors didn’t move… I have already changed the relay to no success. Any ideas?? Thanks!
+Adam Winklmann thank you! Unfortunately I don’t know what your issue might be, but maybe someone else can chime in. Or feel free to join my Facebook group and ask there.
Wow thank you 😊 yes, answer my question ❤
+Nimfa Pfaff you’re welcome! 🍻
Loving all the boxster videos! I replaced the heater core on my 2003 last fall and did part of the job you did. I was only able to tape up one of the vents and you had much better access than through the heater core.
Thanks Ryan! It’s not too late... now you know how to get back in there 😉
"Cutty saw" is indeed the correct name for that tool 😂
+Thomas Hesse oh good! I was worried that might not be correct 😂 😂
Great video! Thanks for the tips!
You got it! Thanks for watching 🙏
Is this why I have heard of boxster owners blocking the air inlet under the cabin air filter ?
+B T I’ve never heard of anyone doing that. Can’t think how that would be a good thing or helpful to the car.
I did this job but went in through the frunk behind battery .
Interesting... which way seems easier?
Hi, Can you tell me which method would be easier? If the trunk is, can you send me instructions? I would appreciate it modonnell9@comcast.net thank you.
Thanks for a helpful video. From a design POV, I'm struggling to understand why those flaps would not be solid. From what I can tell you are saying those metal flaps, which a motor can rotate depending on the climate control settings, originally are covered w/ the foam fuzz (that after many years starts coming out the vents). And you are saying when the foam fuzz is gone from the flaps, the flaps can't do their job to direct the air properly, and thus the heater doesn't function well. But if these flaps didn't have the holes to begin with (and were just solid flaps) - wouldn't that be better? I'm missing something here and hoping you can explain - having seen it yourself.
+B B yes you have it all right. I think their thought process was weight savings to make it easier on the motors that move the flaps.
easier to throttle position like they do by degree when they're not solid. i will be following this video but poking holes in my ducting tape to allow some air bleed. hopefully that strains the little motors less. replacing them would be a huuuuge pain.
I believe the foam is there to prevent condensation from when the flaps are left in their closed position. Remaining hot air can just evaporate.
Excellent video -- thanks!!!
+MrGreencheetah thank you!
Does this missing foam prevent the A/C from working as well?
+C. Mark Hawkins it doesn’t help!
Super helpful! Thanks
+Daniel Alvarado glad it helped!
Is there any downside to replacing foam (that I'd imagine would allow some airflow) with solid aluminum tape?
+Joseph Delgadillo I think it would only be better at separating the hot and cold airflow
excellent question Joseph! now I am wondering if I need to do that to my '99 996
Hey can this issue also cause fog on the lower windshield when turning on cool a/c? That’s what’s been happening to my cayman besides the black foam blowing out of the vents.
+BBS Records cold air being blown into glass will cause this If it is humid. Press the little oval button on the climate control panel that is supposed to be a picture of a vent and only the front vents will blow air.
Hey! My porsche 986 1998 recently just stopped blowing hot air through the A/C (there is no foam im the vents) it only blows cold air, have tried to turn it up to max multiple times to see if there is any heat, but there is no hot air blowing through. I can’t seem to find any articles on this exact issues. Do you have any suggestions?
I have not checked if the foam is missing from the flapps yet, because i’am not sure that this is the issue, and i don’t really feel like destroying the back of the dashboard if its not the issue.
+ShotPutForLife I can almost guarantee you this is the issue.
@@HelpMeDIY Hey man! Decided to take a look today, sadly for me the foam wasn't missing. Atleast i know how to remove everything and put it back now. Do you have any other suggestions?
@@Trenbroskis If you happened to do a coolant flush recently, another common cause is there being air instead of coolant in the heater core. You could try burping the cooling system and see if that helps.
@@HelpMeDIY I did acutally do a coolant flush recently, do you have or recommend any videos for this procedure?
What problem is this solving exactly ? - I have a lot if foam in my vents but the heater/ac still works like a charm. 2000 Boxster S
+@andyrcampbell it won’t work for long
Thanks for sharing!
Does this work for the 987? 2008 to be exact
+Fordgpw1942ocalafl I believe so! Need to do it on my 2006 😁
@HelpMeDIY so far the wife Is loving the 987 I have and drive a 951 so this is the first mid engine porsche I've owned
@@HelpMeDIY Eagering waiting for the posting for 987!!! I was wondering as the radio / CDR24 may be a bit lower than 986 and not sure you can remove those vents like 986. I can see the lower part of the duct (when I took the CDR24 out) but not sure we can get "free" access from the top like 986. Please work on it and post!!!!
Freon is full, not getting cold air, flaps? Compressor engages like it is supposed to. Help?
+Joe Joe this could help
That was good to see that it is not a vacuum door, as we know Mr. Murphy would make it even more fun 🤣😂🙃. I hope this doesn't happen with my 987.2, but wish 🤞in one and poop 💩in the other ✋😳!
😛
Thank you again, Aaron for another useful video. I have had the bits of foam as well as no heat so I'd like to give this a try. I'm curious though, after you did this have you noticed any rattling or noise from the cut vent while driving?
+JazzPianoOnline.com hello again! Absolutely no noise or issues. Highly suggest it still 😁
Great, thanks.
+Texasslim57 you’re welcome!
My 2004 has the AC/heater controls above the radio, meaning they will be unplugged when I need to operate the doors. Any solution for this?
another video has my setup, he plugged the climate controls back in to move the doors.
+@Texasslim57 glad you figured it out 🍻
Your Awesome !!!!
+IamGottful ☺️🍻
This fix your hear, did you have poor ac as well?
AC was already pretty good
I'll have to face this someday 😬
+roger long it’s really not bad! You got this!
*Can someone explain whats actually going on here? If there was foam on there before, surely that means SOME air was meant to flow through the holes? Why block them completely?*
+Matt somethingorother not really, it’s just light and cheap material
@@HelpMeDIY I see, thanks. Love the vids, recent subscriber and that book is on the way!
@@MattSomethingOrOther right on!
I've been meaning to do this for years. This approach is a big help. Thanks for doing this video. C'mon Porsche you have to do better than this. Poor design.
+Daniel Willett thanks! Now that you know what to do it’s really not a bad job at all.
Going to order a cheap borescope camera and send it through the vent to see the condition of the foam .
+Ed A I did a tool of the week episode on one 😉
Do you know if this works the same on a 996?
+adriangale I don’t know for sure but I would assume so since pretty much the whole front of the cars are the same. Let me know if you try out and find out one way or the other!
Anyone know why Porsche didn't just make these vents a single metal piece?
weight/cost
👏👏👏👏👍
+FueledBy.Passion® 🍻
Oh boy…this is gonna be a pain.
+@garythecyclingnerd6219 haha yup. At least you know what you’re in for 😉🍻
@@HelpMeDIY I thought it was a thermostat because the rennsport form made it sound like the foam will just stop you being able to switch the aim of the air, not lose hot/cold.
My local Porsche mechanic has another 996 that offered to be the test car for this which prompted me to search. Honestly doesn’t sound too bad if I can get some grabby tools from Harbor Freight to place the tape
As a 996 owner all I can say is wtf was Porsche engineers thinking in making these blend doors with holes covered with foam. Weight saving? Only the dumb ars Porsche, VW, Audi would do this crap.
Lol 🤷♂️
I think it's a shame that VW/AUDI/PORSCHE etc uses cheap foam on the ventilation flaps way back inside the dash where it's almost inaccessible. Talk about cheap! My 95 GTI VR6 did this as has my 01 Beetle TDI. I just fixed my Beetle's heat flaps the same way two days ago. I think I'll pass on future VW products just because of this since I keep my cars for many years (19 for the Beetle so far).
Do not do this. You can go in from the frunk by removing the battery, cowling, and heater core to get access to repair this vent door.
You do not have to chop up your A/C housing to fix this problem.
+Random Internet User there are other ways to do this, of course. They are all much harder and time consuming. I think saying “do not do this” is short sighted. It’s been working perfectly for me (and tons of others) with no issues. Simple and cheap fix.
@@HelpMeDIY I'm sorry you made this mistake but, no, the other methods for fixing this are not harder and don't require hacking up the ac housing module with a power tool deep inside your dashboard. It requires pulling the battery that's designed to come out and there's an access door.
I appreciate your other videos very much but this was not the right way to fix this. I would not do that to my 996 Turbo or my daughters 986. I would go in from the top where there's literally a door to access the problem.
Porsche are designed to be easy to work on, this is just not the best or most effective way to fix that VW ac module. It affected many vw's not just Porsche.
@@randominternetuser2888 This is the first I've heard of an access door to get to the problem area. Others only talk about removing the heater core from the car... that's what I was referring to. If there's an access panel I'm curious... I'll look for it the next time I have the battery out. Thanks for the more detailed description of a possible alternative approach.
@@randominternetuser2888 don't think the frunk way is really all that much better. You still have to cut off the top of the plastic to pull the pivot, plus only have access to one of the flap doors. So you'll still somehow need to get to the second flap door to seal it up. I do agree that the frunk method lets you seal up the larger flap door on your workbench, which is nice. Given both methods involve some cutting but this method allows you access to both doors, plus takes nowhere near as much time, I feel this way is the better way to go
This is a Bull Shit HACK if I have ever seen one! Who would ever do such a stupid hack to a Porsche!!
+SGT Tom Bailes people that want to fix their blend doors the easy way without spending days removing their whole dash for the same end result? 🤷♂️
This is not a fix. This is a hack job. I would be crushed if I found this had been done to a car I own. The HVAC box is destroyed by this method.
+@richkinney7751 false false and false.
nothing like owning a porsche, something to work on daily.
+@frankoch600 great for content 😂 🍻
What happens when you do nothing?, let the foam blow out, leave the holes open.
+@frankoch600 then the air is not directed to the right places and you don’t get the hot or cold you set it to
Why are there holes, if they must be sealed why have opening, do they exist because the builders were stupid?.
+@frankoch600 to make them lighter was my guess but 🤷♂️
Love the simple directions and the awesome video! Is this the same process for a 987?
+Mayor McTurd thanks. I’m fairly certain it should be the same. If someone with experience could chime in to confirm or deny that would be great!
@@HelpMeDIY I need to put my new stereo in anyway, but I don't want to start cutting it apart for nothing. Lol
@@bloodystinktube321 I don’t blame you!