I was driving an army 5 ton truck across the mojave desert. I had aired down, the rest of the convoy had not. I didnt get stuck in the sand while the rest of the trucks dug themselves in.
I saw the same thing with two identical 4WD fire trucks going through desert trails. The regular truck kept on getting stuck. The one with central tyre inflation fitted went everywhere and had to be used to tow the standard truck out of tough patches.
Amen bro! I’ve snatched many people out when they bogged on the beach because they didn’t air down. 12 PSI is cool. 24 PSI when dirt road is corrugated. Don’t do hardcore rocks where I live though. 🦘😎
The amount of tire width gained by airing down is negligible. Airing down dramatically increase the length of the contact patch and that is more beneficial.
This is true. Talking about side wall grip may be confused with the benefit of a softer tire conforming more easily to uneven surfaces. The benefits can be more elusive, like "smoothing out" the bouncy and jarring transitions of surfaces. All the while potentially affecting grip very little or even negatively, depending on the situation. You can still drive a tire on the sidewall with high pressure, so it wouldn't require lowering the pressure to do so. As you said, the contact patch grows lengthwise from lower pressure.
Which is why the old school safari overlanders went with tall pizza cutter tires, because the point was height that would translate to length when aired down, while still fitting with fewer modifications.
Landcruiser 79 Series Single Cab 35" Tyres 40psi on road 35psi on fast gravel road 20 psi for general slow off-roading 14psi for sand/beach (lower if needed but only in emergency) Has always worked well for me! Try at your own risk.
Rule of thumb for me has been dropping air pressure by the size of the wheel so you dont lose the bead. 18" wheels = 18PSI etc. Every time I got stuck it was because I wasnt aired down so would always recommend doing it if the terrain is questionable before hand.
That formula is backwards. The larger the wheel, the less pressure you need to keep your bead. A larger wheel has more surface area contact with the tire. That means it needs less air pressure clamping the tire against the wheel to keep it on the bead. Some hypothetical numbers to make my point.. Say a 15in wheel has 94 square inches of contact with the tire. (The circumference of a 15in wheel is 47 inches, x2 for front and rear bead) At 30psi that is 2,820 pounds of force holding the tire to the wheel. An 18in wheel will have 114 square inches of contact, meaning at 30psi there is 3,420 pounds of force holding the tire to the wheel. That is 600 extra pounds of force just for having a larger wheel. You could run an 18in wheel with a tire pressure of 24psi and end up with the same bead strength as the 15in wheel at 30psi. So again, the larger the wheel, the less air pressure you need to maintain your bead. The real benefit to running higher pressure with larger wheels is preventing your sidewall from being pinched between the rocks and the wheel when you have low profile tires. But as long as your tires are large enough, running lower pressures shouldn't be an issue.
@@KurNorock incorrect sir, you are actually gonna want to calculate the bead pressure by the force of the entire sidewall area, times the air pressure to attain this. Seeing that with most common sizes people run your effective sidewall area decreases linear to the wheel size, hence decreasing total area for air pressure to act upon. There are some losses here also for taller sidewalls too though as you have increased likelihood of contacting more objects when you have more sidewall.
We ran rockcrawling events around 2000-2006, 10lbs was the normal pressure everyone ran without beadlocks. Even back when we were trail riding with jeeps on 35s we ran 10lbs.
Yah, me too. With a stockish Wrangler running 31"x10.5s aggressively aired down the grip when rock crawling is excellent, washboard gravel roads are smoother and you can run 30mph or so on pavement without overheating the tire sidewalls safely. Jerry Bransford points out that with bigger offroad tires there's no benefit airing down to 20-25psi; airing down only becomes effective in the 10-15psi range where the sidewall really starts flexing.
@@markwyatt3088 this is absolutely right. Because the bigger the tire the more psi to area coefficient raises. There is WAY MORE if a stock jeep Wrangler has 35 psi and you swap out to 40 inch tires you only need the air that will fit in the stock tires at 35 psi into the 40 inch tire to do the same job because it's spread out over a larger area. Which equates to about 27 psi in the 40 inch tire. So airing down in a 40 inch tire to 20 is like letting out 5 psi in a normal tire which does absolutely nothing
I have a tj with 33×12.5×15 and I found 15 is the sweet spot, but that when I'm pushing through thick mud the beed slips. It doesn't slip off just moved along the rim a few inches needing a new balancing but that's the only situation.
@@markwyatt3088 great point. I have 39x13.5r17 and I aired down to 15 and it looked like I didn’t air down at all. I went to 12 and it provided some flex, but not a lot. I typically go down to 10psi now and it still seems like I need to go down a psi or 2.
@@paulhuthmann8824 My TJ has basically the same setup 33x12.50,15's on a 2 1/2 " lift,but me being disabled with a bad back, I normally run about 32psi on the pavement and anywhere from 25 psi down to about 18 psi depending on how rough the trail is, non deadlocks and Mickey Thompson apz's!
Back when the H 1 was being produced I did an off-road excursion with a factory representative Who have been trained at the hummer proving grounds. Not only did we do things that scared the hell out of me, we did it after he let air out of the tires using the deflation/inflation system the vehicle was equipped with.
I have a stock 2004 Wrangler TJ and found airing down to 20 psi from my normal 35 psi made a big difference on the washboard roads. There 31" tires. Thx for the video
I have been running Central Tyre Inflation on both of my 4WD vehicles for the past 6 years. It has been great. I can trim pressures up and down almost on a rock-by-rock demand. I haven't touched the winch since I had it fitted. It is not just for the rough stuff either. When towing a load, like a caravan on wet grass or pasture, even with diff-lock wheels will start churning and digging. So I punch the LOW preference on the dashboard control and drive away after 2 minutes. Then push Medium or High once I reach gravel or bitumen.
For a TJ with 33”-35” tires start at 12 psi. I have gone as low as 4 psi without bead locks to get off a snowfield. Just drive real easy and avoid sidewall impacts.
I mostly agree. TJ with 35x12.5r15 and run 26psi on street, 18-20psi on gravel roads, 8-10psi when normally crawling. But I have gone lower under certain circumstances. I would suggest "most" start with 1/2 their street pressure and adjust as experience dictates for crawling.
For anyone concerned about running beadlocks on the road, I have run ATX slabs on my Tacoma for 8 years and have never been questioned by law enforcement about them (I live in Georgia). Most cops I assume don’t even know what beadlocks are. I can air down to below 10 PSI if I want with no issues (though I prefer closer to 15). I actually got a flat rear tire on my last set of tires and drove for several days without even noticing. Needless to say I needed a new set but helps if you’re in a pinch with a flat and don’t want to have to get towed.
2k TJ 32x11.50LT15 9psi when I hit the snow. The "rule of thumb" I was taught is, air down until the sidewall gets a good crinkle. Takes about 45mins to air back up to 30psi, one tire at a time, with the little 12v compressor I have. I would recommend making a 4 way inflate/deflate hose setup I have the York on my bench - one day ...
On light and easy trails we don't air down on our 06 4Runner or 08 RAV4, but when we do (my wife's 08 RAV4, my 06 4Runner) we air down Both to 20 psi for moderate trails which is perfect for both rigs especially since we both have Hercules Terra Trac ll tires on both vehicles.
So one more thing you should have covered is once you go to a different load range the sticker on the side of the vehicle is not a good precher to run like on a jeep wrangler it comes with passenger tires witch is a load range c and the ones you put on could be an e there's a trade off in this while yes the c would give you a better ride the tire 1 might not come in this configuration and 2 it makes it a weaker side wall for when you air down so the tire manufacturers gives them a stiffer side wall and makes it available this way so when you do air down it will resist sidewall punishment and less likely to separate I run 28psi on 35s works great for the beach and gives a good ride as well just make sure to rotate your tires so they last longer
12psi is the magic number for my FJ-40 on STT Pro 35x12.5 15's, steel rim. Same tire, same wheel on my buddies CJ8 and his magic number is 8psi. Moral of the story is it depends. Start somewhere moderate like 20psi, pay attention to your ride and work your way down. You'll find where your sweet spot is.
Usually go on to beaches, but my rig is a two door JK with 33/12.5/18’s Kenda Klevers and 18/10’s. Moderate off roading I’ll go down to 20 LBS. But for light off roading I’ll stick to 30 LBS. Highly recommend the kendas to anybody btw, really affordable, excellent performance, super quiet on the road, and super aggressive look to them.
DO air down your OFF ROAD tires if you want to GO and NOT be stuck in sand and snow, and IF you DO want to successfully climb rocky hills, dirty hills, if you want to go through deep snow, and if you DONT want to have punctured OFF ROAD tires when you happen to run over sharp things like chipped rocks, sharp twigs and branches etc. Do NOT air down your OFF ROAD tires if you like rototilling holes to hold your spinning tires, or IF you like them getting holes from jagged things.
Running 39.5s on a CJ5 it's almost impossible to get the tire to really flex even at 4psi. Luckily I have beadlock wheels, so I can run in the single digit psi range while the tires break in...
I got my driver's license in 1974 in a 1971 Dodge Power Wagon. Then I spent the following +40 years as a remote terrain specialist in mineral exploration. I've driven nearly every type and model of 4x4 on the planet from the Canadian arctic tundra to the Atacama and Gobi deserts. I've NEVER aired down. Exposing sidewalls to cactus thorns, sharp rocks and dried sticks is ridiculous. In the good/bad old days of Goodyear bias ply lug tires with vertical sidewalls, we'd never get a sidewall puncture. And it would take a hand grenade to go through the tread casing. But I also never go anywhere without a winch on the truck or a portable stowed away. I guess if you're out there to play and getting stuck is recreation, go ahead and do whatever turns your spokes. But if you use your truck to actually get somewhere, a winch is your best friend...not an air compressor.
Agree, I do more motorcycling off road and the risk of damage to your tires/rims is just too much. Also much harder to carry a spare (at best you can carry a spare tube).
Lowest I've gone is 16psi when on the dunes or in deep snow, but being someone who ran a crosstrek offroad and now an outback wilderness, airing down made the difference in making it to a site vs having to turn around.
I’ve hit 10psi without beadlockers on 15x10 steelies with C rated tires. That is pushing it a bit especially for the rock bouncing I was doing. He is 50/50 correct. (For the street) I’ve done tires for over 20 years and I can tell you from experience that you can push a tire a lot farther than you think. (In both directions high and low)
@@danieljackson-woods6225 are the Cooper version good I'm in Canada I can get a set of 225 70 16 ( biggest I can run stock suspension) for less than 700 northern Mexican pesos
"Most of the weight-carrying capacity is done by the sidewall of the tire." No. Strictly speaking of weight carrying, i.e. transferring the weight of the vehicle to the ground that supports it, the sidewall's job is to contain pressurized air. There may be some stiffness in the sidewall that can contain a proportionally minimal amount of weight; if you have a mounted tire with the valve stem removed, however much weight it takes to flatten that tire is the load carrying capacity of the sidewall. With a bicycle tire, it might be 2-3 pounds; with a car tire, I'm guessing 20-100 pounds? Other than this, the weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the air in the tire, and it's weight carrying capacity is simply a function of the pressure and the area of the contact patch. E.g. if a car has tires with sidewalls that can each support 50 pounds, and the car weighs 4200 pounds, then the air pressure in the tires must support 4000 pounds, 1000 pounds per tire. If that tire is inflated to 35 PSI, the contact patch must be 1000÷35 = 28.57 square inches, which could be approximately 4"x7", 6"x5", etc.
Depends on the tire. A spare tire for my ambulance with no wheel in it can support my whole weight with minimal deflection (I’m about 200lb) but that’s also a heavy duty truck tire at 245/75/17
I run 8-10 PSI in my 40s on the trail and 25-30 PSI on the highway which the Jeep rarely sees the highway these days. Typically to get gas then back home then back on the trailer to the next trip. I run KMCs machetes on both Jeeps we wheel.
Loosing the seal at the bead is not the only folly possible with over-doing the air-down. More is not "always" better. If we incrementally lower pressure and observe the effects, any objective benefit that increases will eventually decrease. While it is generally correct to state that airing down more increases flotation it runs through the sweet spot of grip/traction while flotation is still increasing. These are both due to the increase in contact area. When grip begins to be comprimised it is because the stiction quality (grip) of the rubber compound is a function of the surface pressure (not air pressure). The surface pressure, commonly measured by pounds per square inch, is a gross function of the vehicle weight divided by the surface area. Bigger surface area equals less surface pressure, reducing grip capacity. I have seen this come into play while rock crawling. Overly aired down (especially very wide) tires will slip on granite and sandstone, especially while climbing. Alternatively, this type of grip is not a benefit on loose surfaces. A gripped grain of sand just moves. You need mechanical grip, like deep and wide tread lugs to improve traction. Loose sand is a more extreme example, and also one of the well-known exceptions to airing down conservatively to avoid leaving your "sweet spot" for optimal grip. Back to rocks and other hard surfaces: it is important to distinguish between the benefits of a "softer" tire conforming over uneven surfaces and the surface contact pressure that gives you grip. Understanding this, it becomes easier to decide whether more compliance or total grip might be in conflict at the margins, given the particular conditions. Check out tirepressure.com for information that is especially helpful when you have changed from the factory size.
Just getting into 4wd. I'm usually cheap but I bit the bullet and decided to get a Viair 300p and the parts to create a 4 tire inflator/deflator. Still a bit scared about trying to figure out pressures. Got a 98 4 runner and it came with 31.5" tires but they put them on 17s instead of leaving the stock 16s so I don't have as much sidewall. Only went wheeling once and it was recommended I only go down to 25psi because of that sidewall size. Super helpful video though.
@@farstrider79 I've actually found since then that I can go down to 15 with my tires. No issues yet. One they are worn I'm going to probably get some 33" pizza cutters.
if you run after market sized tires, get some white children's chalk air up to 40psi go to a level empty parking lot cover a 6" patch of tips of the treads in chalk front and rear drive forward in a straight line 200ish feet, get out and check the chalk wear on treads should wear even across. air down by 2 psi each time till wear of chalk removal is even right down tire pressures for front a rear that is you road non load carrying (IE trailer or such) air pressure. can also do this with what tire pressure to use for towing or hauling a repetitive load write down the load type or go to a CATS and get weight assuming it will be a 65psi max tire air front to 45psi air rear to 60psi and repeat process till even chalk wear and write it down.
I have 17” Icon Rebound Pro’s paired with 37/12.50/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT’s on a JLURD. I know you guys have experience running both the rim and the tire. I know the compound is harder than most with the Mickey Thompson’s. What is the lowest you have tried with this these? Mickey Thompson Says stay at 20psi naturally to not lose the bead. What are your observations on how low you can air down, on either of these with other wheels and tire for each, or paired. Thanks.
Might not be relevant for you guys in the US, but in the UK its mostly mud tracks and I have always gone down about 50% of recommended road pressure. So most of the time I was running 15-18psi depending on the vehicle.
In irl why do I keep hearing people saying they run 50-70 psi on the road? Sounds completely ridiculous for Jeeps and light trucks. Tire pressure varies by vehicle weight. The best thing you can do is play around with your tire/vehicle tire pressure to know what it's capable of. Plus you should learn what pressure to run per terrain.
It takes 20 to 30 times a tires load caring capacity to actually blow out a tire at low speed! So if you’re going 45 mph or slower. It generally doesn’t even matter if the tire is just a little bit overloaded!
I feel like i agree with your opinions. The galaxy's seemed to sound like the most unadulterated sound. I just got the jabba x7 pro's to replace my 3 yesr old galaxy buds live and im just rather greatly disappointed to the point where im thinking of going out and buying the galaxy buds pro still.
Question: Does the average person that deflates their tires for off-road usually run without TPMS to avoid damaging it, especially if they have different sets of off-road and on-road tires?
@@UA-camuser1aawhen you roll over a decent sized rock, the flex of the tire can allow for the impact on the TPMS sensor. The sensors are roughly 3” long, 1” wide, and about 1/2” thick inside the tire.
Speaking from a true rookie when it comes to airing down and back up I can say this was the best video I have watched to date! I'm currently searching for an air compressor for my 2021 4x4 Z71 Silverado RST with 31" tires on it. I'm afraid to purchase a cheap option and have it lock up on me. Any recommendations for a reliable option?
the info is clear and explained multiple times for understanding. The dude talking is super clear.... so why the heck did they go with such a click baity title....? literally at 8:05 he says " personally, I would pick airing down the tires over more clearance" hahahaha basically the opposite of what the title says.
I love your guys' information on your channel......however, I am curious why you guys keep labeling this series as "Do NOT" when your info is actually opposite each time?
If you are floating on top it doesn't matter how deep it is. Wide tires vs pizza cutters is like comparing street tires to paddle tires. Pizza cutters don't work in deep snow. A few spins and you are on the frame. Fat tires at 6 psi and you can drive over any depth snow. The secret is don't spin. The object is to move the Jeep with the tire, not move the snow with the tire.
What would you recommend running aset of baja boss a/t on road...just had them put on and the psi is 40..I feel like I'm riding on balloons..hit a dip and she sways..should I drop lower... 2 Dr wrangler sport JL door sticker calls for 36psi . I'm running bigger tire...33x12.5R17...thanks
A good test for what air pressure to run on larger tires is to take a stick of chalk and make a thick line across the tread, drive for a bit and if the chalk stays on the sides of the tire drop a few psi and repeat
What’s up SmokeGR20! I also bought a set of the new Baja Boss A/T’s 35x12.5 R17 for my Tacoma about 3 months ago. You have your tires aired up too high for the road. You should keep them at 32 PSi in order to soften up your ride and still be safe on the road. On off road trails that are pretty easy to medium with no rock climbing you should air down to 25 PSi and for the harder trails 15PSi. 🤘
I air down my falken wild peak AT/3 to 15 psi when driving on the beach. 03 Ford Expedition Eddy Bauer. Sure I could get with more but 15 has worked really well and never had an issue.
Alright Im a guy who offroads at least once a week - I usually offroad 3 days in a row with my wife during most weeks. So we love to go mudding, but we also love to play in the sand - that really fine powder sand that will eat your vehicle if you dont respect it. Heres what Im going to tell you - if you go offroading you have money for your vehicle, and you know you have money for your vehicle. Air your tires down. There are times Im lazy and I keep my tires aired up, I have way less traction and way less control. Airing down allows for better control in very slippery situations, and handles fine sand better. That said I have found that street tires with an air down handle this type of sand better than mud tires with an air down - although I havent gotten stuck in either while Ive seen people with much more expensive vehicles bury themselves up to the frame because they dont really know the ins and outs of respecting terrain. A tire is just a tire, we are all spending money in suspension, drive train, engine maintenance and grip. Everything eventually breaks, and we always fix it. Be safe, air down your tires - youre more important than your vechile.
After watching too many hours of yours/and others videos, I know I want 35" tires. I know I want Method 700 series wheels. I grew up with 10 ply tires being the normal/minimum. A shop is suggesting Mickey Thomson legend which is only a 2 ply or a Boss AT that is 3 ply. It's hard to get away from what has been drilled in my head. I've only blown a few tires in years of offroading and it was always Sidewall Damage from a rock or stick! I'm frustrated! **** What sidewall ply is best for airing down without compromising? 🥴😵💫😤😡👿 Somebody please tell me.
Do you have a vid on P vs LT vs E rated tires for off road? I'm out in Arizona and I run E rated K02 on a Wrangler Diesel. I'm wondering if a P Wildpeak would be fine too? Looking for more comfort on road but tough enough in AZ due to a bad back. Most of the time, I'm on rocky hard pack forest service roads with some sandwash. Nothing too crazy. Thanks!
What I like best about the off-roaders is the sound your tires make when you are coming down the highway at 50mph. I especially enjoy the safety factor involved because I can hear you coming a half mile away. You people are so considerate to us that live next to a paved road.
The airing down helps with essentially smooshing the tire to have a flatter more grounded base which will in return make climbing easier. Versus the wide and narrow tires that will just help have a modified stance which can be beneficial but not much to the extent of helping grip the ground underneath when climbing.
In emergencies, you can inflate tires by setting them on fire. I just keep a can of gasoline and a match in my Rubicon. Way lighter and I can't huff an air compressor.
A friend of mine told me NOT to ever air down because it can damage the tire (something about the steel belt separating, I think). Is that true? (I watched the video because I thought you were confirming that statement, but I don't think you were.) Are these offroad tires steel belted radials or something different? (You can see that I don't know much about tires, so thank you.)
That won't happen at lower speeds. Modern tyres are pretty tough. Logging trucks which use Central Tyre Inflation sometimes include speed sensors so that if the truck is going faster than 60 kph for 1 minute+ while pressures are still low, the software will automatically bump drive wheel pressure back up to highway pressures, just in case the driver forgets to manually select the higher tyre pressure.
Thank you for this video , I always run differing air pressures front to rear .. the back always gets less than the fronts (PU truck, nothing but a 5 gallon water can in the bed) if it's not bad then 30psi/25psi or if worse it's 25psi/20psi ... 285/70/17 on stock wheels
This is my first time watching this channel. I marked it as do not recommend due to its clickbait title. Your content may be good, but that title is a turnoff.
You guys have good content... I'm not sure why you feel the need to use such clickbaity titles.
“DONT DEFLATE YOUR OFF TOAD TIRES!” First line of the video: DEFLATING YOUR TIRES IS THE BEST WAY TO COMPLIMENT YOUR 4WD SYSTEM.
What this guy said. We don’t need tricked into watching these videos. The content is good enough to keep us coming back.
agreed. why start with the potential to make viewers distrust the channel when the info is good?
Title could have been “WATCH BEFORE YOU AIR DOWN” and I would have watched it.
Agreed totally
I was driving an army 5 ton truck across the mojave desert. I had aired down, the rest of the convoy had not. I didnt get stuck in the sand while the rest of the trucks dug themselves in.
I saw the same thing with two identical 4WD fire trucks going through desert trails. The regular truck kept on getting stuck. The one with central tyre inflation fitted went everywhere and had to be used to tow the standard truck out of tough patches.
Amen bro! I’ve snatched many people out when they bogged on the beach because they didn’t air down. 12 PSI is cool. 24 PSI when dirt road is corrugated. Don’t do hardcore rocks where I live though. 🦘😎
The amount of tire width gained by airing down is negligible. Airing down dramatically increase the length of the contact patch and that is more beneficial.
This is true. Talking about side wall grip may be confused with the benefit of a softer tire conforming more easily to uneven surfaces. The benefits can be more elusive, like "smoothing out" the bouncy and jarring transitions of surfaces. All the while potentially affecting grip very little or even negatively, depending on the situation. You can still drive a tire on the sidewall with high pressure, so it wouldn't require lowering the pressure to do so. As you said, the contact patch grows lengthwise from lower pressure.
Finally someone that understands what’s actually going on. Thank you sir.
Why does nobody seem to get this? Thank you!
This ⬆️ ⬆️ ⬆️ 💯
Which is why the old school safari overlanders went with tall pizza cutter tires, because the point was height that would translate to length when aired down, while still fitting with fewer modifications.
Landcruiser 79 Series Single Cab 35" Tyres
40psi on road
35psi on fast gravel road
20 psi for general slow off-roading
14psi for sand/beach (lower if needed but only in emergency)
Has always worked well for me! Try at your own risk.
Rule of thumb for me has been dropping air pressure by the size of the wheel so you dont lose the bead. 18" wheels = 18PSI etc. Every time I got stuck it was because I wasnt aired down so would always recommend doing it if the terrain is questionable before hand.
I love this formula..
Works well on semi trucks as well.
That formula is backwards. The larger the wheel, the less pressure you need to keep your bead.
A larger wheel has more surface area contact with the tire. That means it needs less air pressure clamping the tire against the wheel to keep it on the bead.
Some hypothetical numbers to make my point..
Say a 15in wheel has 94 square inches of contact with the tire. (The circumference of a 15in wheel is 47 inches, x2 for front and rear bead)
At 30psi that is 2,820 pounds of force holding the tire to the wheel.
An 18in wheel will have 114 square inches of contact, meaning at 30psi there is 3,420 pounds of force holding the tire to the wheel. That is 600 extra pounds of force just for having a larger wheel. You could run an 18in wheel with a tire pressure of 24psi and end up with the same bead strength as the 15in wheel at 30psi.
So again, the larger the wheel, the less air pressure you need to maintain your bead.
The real benefit to running higher pressure with larger wheels is preventing your sidewall from being pinched between the rocks and the wheel when you have low profile tires. But as long as your tires are large enough, running lower pressures shouldn't be an issue.
@@KurNorock incorrect sir, you are actually gonna want to calculate the bead pressure by the force of the entire sidewall area, times the air pressure to attain this. Seeing that with most common sizes people run your effective sidewall area decreases linear to the wheel size, hence decreasing total area for air pressure to act upon. There are some losses here also for taller sidewalls too though as you have increased likelihood of contacting more objects when you have more sidewall.
We ran rockcrawling events around 2000-2006, 10lbs was the normal pressure everyone ran without beadlocks. Even back when we were trail riding with jeeps on 35s we ran 10lbs.
I run 12 psi on non bead lock. Have not ever lost a bead off roading.
Yah, me too. With a stockish Wrangler running 31"x10.5s aggressively aired down the grip when rock crawling is excellent, washboard gravel roads are smoother and you can run 30mph or so on pavement without overheating the tire sidewalls safely.
Jerry Bransford points out that with bigger offroad tires there's no benefit airing down to 20-25psi; airing down only becomes effective in the 10-15psi range where the sidewall really starts flexing.
@@markwyatt3088 this is absolutely right. Because the bigger the tire the more psi to area coefficient raises. There is WAY MORE if a stock jeep Wrangler has 35 psi and you swap out to 40 inch tires you only need the air that will fit in the stock tires at 35 psi into the 40 inch tire to do the same job because it's spread out over a larger area. Which equates to about 27 psi in the 40 inch tire. So airing down in a 40 inch tire to 20 is like letting out 5 psi in a normal tire which does absolutely nothing
I have a tj with 33×12.5×15 and I found 15 is the sweet spot, but that when I'm pushing through thick mud the beed slips. It doesn't slip off just moved along the rim a few inches needing a new balancing but that's the only situation.
@@markwyatt3088 great point. I have 39x13.5r17 and I aired down to 15 and it looked like I didn’t air down at all. I went to 12 and it provided some flex, but not a lot. I typically go down to 10psi now and it still seems like I need to go down a psi or 2.
@@paulhuthmann8824 My TJ has basically the same setup 33x12.50,15's on a 2 1/2 " lift,but me being disabled with a bad back, I normally run about 32psi on the pavement and anywhere from 25 psi down to about 18 psi depending on how rough the trail is, non deadlocks and Mickey Thompson apz's!
Back when the H 1 was being produced I did an off-road excursion with a factory representative Who have been trained at the hummer proving grounds. Not only did we do things that scared the hell out of me, we did it after he let air out of the tires using the deflation/inflation system the vehicle was equipped with.
i only drop pressure by 10lbs. it isnt gonna hurt the tire at off road speeds, now i can see it being dangerous or bad for the tire at higher speeds
I have a stock 2004 Wrangler TJ and found airing down to 20 psi from my normal 35 psi made a big difference on the washboard roads. There 31" tires. Thx for the video
I have been running Central Tyre Inflation on both of my 4WD vehicles for the past 6 years. It has been great. I can trim pressures up and down almost on a rock-by-rock demand. I haven't touched the winch since I had it fitted. It is not just for the rough stuff either. When towing a load, like a caravan on wet grass or pasture, even with diff-lock wheels will start churning and digging. So I punch the LOW preference on the dashboard control and drive away after 2 minutes. Then push Medium or High once I reach gravel or bitumen.
What system are you using? Vehicle?
For a TJ with 33”-35” tires start at 12 psi. I have gone as low as 4 psi without bead locks to get off a snowfield. Just drive real easy and avoid sidewall impacts.
I mostly agree. TJ with 35x12.5r15 and run 26psi on street, 18-20psi on gravel roads, 8-10psi when normally crawling. But I have gone lower under certain circumstances. I would suggest "most" start with 1/2 their street pressure and adjust as experience dictates for crawling.
For anyone concerned about running beadlocks on the road, I have run ATX slabs on my Tacoma for 8 years and have never been questioned by law enforcement about them (I live in Georgia). Most cops I assume don’t even know what beadlocks are. I can air down to below 10 PSI if I want with no issues (though I prefer closer to 15). I actually got a flat rear tire on my last set of tires and drove for several days without even noticing. Needless to say I needed a new set but helps if you’re in a pinch with a flat and don’t want to have to get towed.
2k TJ 32x11.50LT15 9psi when I hit the snow. The "rule of thumb" I was taught is, air down until the sidewall gets a good crinkle.
Takes about 45mins to air back up to 30psi, one tire at a time, with the little 12v compressor I have.
I would recommend making a 4 way inflate/deflate hose setup
I have the York on my bench - one day ...
On light and easy trails we don't air down on our 06 4Runner or 08 RAV4, but when we do (my wife's 08 RAV4, my 06 4Runner) we air down Both to 20 psi for moderate trails which is perfect for both rigs especially since we both have Hercules Terra Trac ll tires on both vehicles.
Huge benefit from the longer tire contact patch. Really helps in my TJ!
So one more thing you should have covered is once you go to a different load range the sticker on the side of the vehicle is not a good precher to run like on a jeep wrangler it comes with passenger tires witch is a load range c and the ones you put on could be an e there's a trade off in this while yes the c would give you a better ride the tire 1 might not come in this configuration and 2 it makes it a weaker side wall for when you air down so the tire manufacturers gives them a stiffer side wall and makes it available this way so when you do air down it will resist sidewall punishment and less likely to separate I run 28psi on 35s works great for the beach and gives a good ride as well just make sure to rotate your tires so they last longer
80 series LC, 35"×10.5"×17". I run Kenda Klever RTs @15psi. 2 years, 16 trail runs, no problems
12psi is the magic number for my FJ-40 on STT Pro 35x12.5 15's, steel rim. Same tire, same wheel on my buddies CJ8 and his magic number is 8psi. Moral of the story is it depends. Start somewhere moderate like 20psi, pay attention to your ride and work your way down. You'll find where your sweet spot is.
Usually go on to beaches, but my rig is a two door JK with 33/12.5/18’s Kenda Klevers and 18/10’s. Moderate off roading I’ll go down to 20 LBS. But for light off roading I’ll stick to 30 LBS.
Highly recommend the kendas to anybody btw, really affordable, excellent performance, super quiet on the road, and super aggressive look to them.
Nioce! I love mine I have the 35x10.50x17
DO air down your OFF ROAD tires if you want to GO and NOT be stuck in sand and snow, and IF you DO want to successfully climb rocky hills, dirty hills, if you want to go through deep snow, and if you DONT want to have punctured OFF ROAD tires when you happen to run over sharp things like chipped rocks, sharp twigs and branches etc. Do NOT air down your OFF ROAD tires if you like rototilling holes to hold your spinning tires, or IF you like them getting holes from jagged things.
37/12.5/17 BFG KM3 no bead locks on a jku 8-10 psi works really well for me
Running 39.5s on a CJ5 it's almost impossible to get the tire to really flex even at 4psi. Luckily I have beadlock wheels, so I can run in the single digit psi range while the tires break in...
I have 15” x10 pro comp bead grip 69 series and 32” BGFs. I air down to 12 psi in the sand and about 18 on rock. Never had any issues
I got my driver's license in 1974 in a 1971 Dodge Power Wagon. Then I spent the following +40 years as a remote terrain specialist in mineral exploration. I've driven nearly every type and model of 4x4 on the planet from the Canadian arctic tundra to the Atacama and Gobi deserts.
I've NEVER aired down. Exposing sidewalls to cactus thorns, sharp rocks and dried sticks is ridiculous. In the good/bad old days of Goodyear bias ply lug tires with vertical sidewalls, we'd never get a sidewall puncture. And it would take a hand grenade to go through the tread casing.
But I also never go anywhere without a winch on the truck or a portable stowed away.
I guess if you're out there to play and getting stuck is recreation, go ahead and do whatever turns your spokes. But if you use your truck to actually get somewhere, a winch is your best friend...not an air compressor.
Agree, I do more motorcycling off road and the risk of damage to your tires/rims is just too much. Also much harder to carry a spare (at best you can carry a spare tube).
there's a difference in riding down a dirt road or logging trail and climbing boulders.
Dam Straight!!
Lowest I've gone is 16psi when on the dunes or in deep snow, but being someone who ran a crosstrek offroad and now an outback wilderness, airing down made the difference in making it to a site vs having to turn around.
I’ve hit 10psi without beadlockers on 15x10 steelies with C rated tires. That is pushing it a bit especially for the rock bouncing I was doing. He is 50/50 correct. (For the street)
I’ve done tires for over 20 years and I can tell you from experience that you can push a tire a lot farther than you think. (In both directions high and low)
What size and type of tires you got on that? I have a cross country xc 70 I'm limited to 16s without a lift. Probably gonna a go with Cooper at3s
@@somewhereinagalaxyfarfaraway 245/65/R17
@@somewhereinagalaxyfarfaraway I run 245/65/R17 toyo open country AT3s
@@danieljackson-woods6225 are the Cooper version good I'm in Canada I can get a set of 225 70 16 ( biggest I can run stock suspension) for less than 700 northern Mexican pesos
"Most of the weight-carrying capacity is done by the sidewall of the tire." No. Strictly speaking of weight carrying, i.e. transferring the weight of the vehicle to the ground that supports it, the sidewall's job is to contain pressurized air. There may be some stiffness in the sidewall that can contain a proportionally minimal amount of weight; if you have a mounted tire with the valve stem removed, however much weight it takes to flatten that tire is the load carrying capacity of the sidewall. With a bicycle tire, it might be 2-3 pounds; with a car tire, I'm guessing 20-100 pounds? Other than this, the weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the air in the tire, and it's weight carrying capacity is simply a function of the pressure and the area of the contact patch. E.g. if a car has tires with sidewalls that can each support 50 pounds, and the car weighs 4200 pounds, then the air pressure in the tires must support 4000 pounds, 1000 pounds per tire. If that tire is inflated to 35 PSI, the contact patch must be 1000÷35 = 28.57 square inches, which could be approximately 4"x7", 6"x5", etc.
He actually said all that lol
Depends on the tire. A spare tire for my ambulance with no wheel in it can support my whole weight with minimal deflection (I’m about 200lb) but that’s also a heavy duty truck tire at 245/75/17
I run 8-10 PSI in my 40s on the trail and 25-30 PSI on the highway which the Jeep rarely sees the highway these days. Typically to get gas then back home then back on the trailer to the next trip. I run KMCs machetes on both Jeeps we wheel.
Loosing the seal at the bead is not the only folly possible with over-doing the air-down. More is not "always" better. If we incrementally lower pressure and observe the effects, any objective benefit that increases will eventually decrease. While it is generally correct to state that airing down more increases flotation it runs through the sweet spot of grip/traction while flotation is still increasing. These are both due to the increase in contact area. When grip begins to be comprimised it is because the stiction quality (grip) of the rubber compound is a function of the surface pressure (not air pressure). The surface pressure, commonly measured by pounds per square inch, is a gross function of the vehicle weight divided by the surface area. Bigger surface area equals less surface pressure, reducing grip capacity. I have seen this come into play while rock crawling. Overly aired down (especially very wide) tires will slip on granite and sandstone, especially while climbing. Alternatively, this type of grip is not a benefit on loose surfaces. A gripped grain of sand just moves. You need mechanical grip, like deep and wide tread lugs to improve traction. Loose sand is a more extreme example, and also one of the well-known exceptions to airing down conservatively to avoid leaving your "sweet spot" for optimal grip. Back to rocks and other hard surfaces: it is important to distinguish between the benefits of a "softer" tire conforming over uneven surfaces and the surface contact pressure that gives you grip. Understanding this, it becomes easier to decide whether more compliance or total grip might be in conflict at the margins, given the particular conditions. Check out tirepressure.com for information that is especially helpful when you have changed from the factory size.
Too wordy
Jeep tj on 33x12.5×15 bf ko2's at 12.5 psi on the rocks and 15 to 20 for the rest depending if it's muddy or not.
Just getting into 4wd. I'm usually cheap but I bit the bullet and decided to get a Viair 300p and the parts to create a 4 tire inflator/deflator. Still a bit scared about trying to figure out pressures. Got a 98 4 runner and it came with 31.5" tires but they put them on 17s instead of leaving the stock 16s so I don't have as much sidewall. Only went wheeling once and it was recommended I only go down to 25psi because of that sidewall size. Super helpful video though.
Unless you have monster tires, taking just a little out helps.
@@farstrider79 I've actually found since then that I can go down to 15 with my tires. No issues yet. One they are worn I'm going to probably get some 33" pizza cutters.
Ram 1500
35" Toyo RT on 17's
20psi perfect for most off roading I've found...
Lake Havasu ☀️ AZ
if you run after market sized tires, get some white children's chalk air up to 40psi go to a level empty parking lot cover a 6" patch of tips of the treads in chalk front and rear drive forward in a straight line 200ish feet, get out and check the chalk wear on treads should wear even across. air down by 2 psi each time till wear of chalk removal is even right down tire pressures for front a rear that is you road non load carrying (IE trailer or such) air pressure. can also do this with what tire pressure to use for towing or hauling a repetitive load write down the load type or go to a CATS and get weight assuming it will be a 65psi max tire air front to 45psi air rear to 60psi and repeat process till even chalk wear and write it down.
I have the ridge grapplers in E load rating for a Lexus lx570. There weren’t any c load available. Would I still be able to 20 psi even with E load?
Was the beginning of this filmed in big bear ca?
I have 17” Icon Rebound Pro’s paired with 37/12.50/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT’s on a JLURD. I know you guys have experience running both the rim and the tire. I know the compound is harder than most with the Mickey Thompson’s. What is the lowest you have tried with this these? Mickey Thompson Says stay at 20psi naturally to not lose the bead. What are your observations on how low you can air down, on either of these with other wheels and tire for each, or paired. Thanks.
Might not be relevant for you guys in the US, but in the UK its mostly mud tracks and I have always gone down about 50% of recommended road pressure. So most of the time I was running 15-18psi depending on the vehicle.
Airing down is the single best thing you can do to improve your experience off-road.
In irl why do I keep hearing people saying they run 50-70 psi on the road? Sounds completely ridiculous for Jeeps and light trucks.
Tire pressure varies by vehicle weight. The best thing you can do is play around with your tire/vehicle tire pressure to know what it's capable of. Plus you should learn what pressure to run per terrain.
It takes 20 to 30 times a tires load caring capacity to actually blow out a tire at low speed!
So if you’re going 45 mph or slower. It generally doesn’t even matter if the tire is just a little bit overloaded!
I feel like i agree with your opinions. The galaxy's seemed to sound like the most unadulterated sound. I just got the jabba x7 pro's to replace my 3 yesr old galaxy buds live and im just rather greatly disappointed to the point where im thinking of going out and buying the galaxy buds pro still.
I have a 96 Geo Tracker and I run 18 psi in the front tires and 15 lbs. In the rears on a 31x10x15 mud Terrain. Rides way better.
Guy in the purple wrangler @4:00 may need a change of underwear LMAO
Question: Does the average person that deflates their tires for off-road usually run without TPMS to avoid damaging it, especially if they have different sets of off-road and on-road tires?
I got rid of all mine, on my heavy 16 Power Wagon, after smashing a couple while rolling over rocks and logs. Don't miss them honestly.
How does it damage
@@UA-camuser1aawhen you roll over a decent sized rock, the flex of the tire can allow for the impact on the TPMS sensor. The sensors are roughly 3” long, 1” wide, and about 1/2” thick inside the tire.
@@lanix17 thx
Speaking from a true rookie when it comes to airing down and back up I can say this was the best video I have watched to date! I'm currently searching for an air compressor for my 2021 4x4 Z71 Silverado RST with 31" tires on it. I'm afraid to purchase a cheap option and have it lock up on me. Any recommendations for a reliable option?
Any Viair is solid.
Also ARB has some good quality options
the info is clear and explained multiple times for understanding. The dude talking is super clear.... so why the heck did they go with such a click baity title....? literally at 8:05 he says " personally, I would pick airing down the tires over more clearance" hahahaha basically the opposite of what the title says.
On myYJ I ran 10 psi for off road, my jk it is between 10 and 12
I love your guys' information on your channel......however, I am curious why you guys keep labeling this series as "Do NOT" when your info is actually opposite each time?
To get your attention so you'll watch
Did it work?
@@TrailBuilt Ha! I'm an avid offroader so it sort of drives me 🤪
@@TrailBuilt it gets attention, but not necessarily positive attention…
Yes. Just wait for the video titled, 'Do Not put on a parachute when you jump from a plane' :)
If you are floating on top it doesn't matter how deep it is. Wide tires vs pizza cutters is like comparing street tires to paddle tires. Pizza cutters don't work in deep snow. A few spins and you are on the frame. Fat tires at 6 psi and you can drive over any depth snow. The secret is don't spin. The object is to move the Jeep with the tire, not move the snow with the tire.
12 psi works for me, jeep XJ 33 x 12.5 mt tire. std rim.
What would you recommend running aset of baja boss a/t on road...just had them put on and the psi is 40..I feel like I'm riding on balloons..hit a dip and she sways..should I drop lower... 2 Dr wrangler sport JL door sticker calls for 36psi . I'm running bigger tire...33x12.5R17...thanks
A good test for what air pressure to run on larger tires is to take a stick of chalk and make a thick line across the tread, drive for a bit and if the chalk stays on the sides of the tire drop a few psi and repeat
Check out this video and hopefully it can answer some of those questions:
ua-cam.com/video/173zUavZn4M/v-deo.html
What’s up SmokeGR20!
I also bought a set of the new Baja Boss A/T’s 35x12.5 R17 for my Tacoma about 3 months ago. You have your tires aired up too high for the road. You should keep them at 32 PSi in order to soften up your ride and still be safe on the road. On off road trails that are pretty easy to medium with no rock climbing you should air down to 25 PSi and for the harder trails 15PSi. 🤘
I air down my falken wild peak AT/3 to 15 psi when driving on the beach. 03 Ford Expedition Eddy Bauer. Sure I could get with more but 15 has worked really well and never had an issue.
In snow I go down to about 2psi with beadlocks
I run my jeeps non beadlock 35x12.5r17 at 8-10psi crawling an have never lost a bead… yet
But if you are in sand or snow or even it works better to air it down
Great video. I can't wait for my portals to get here. Gonna run 38s on a stock 23 JL EcoDiesel and of course I have the whole underbelly protected.
I also have 17" Method 704 HD rims.
We need to see some pictures of this setup sometime!
@@TrailBuilt Hopefully by the beginning of May will be complete.
15 minute video for a 3 minute explanation 🥲
Excellent video, this was long overdue. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Alright Im a guy who offroads at least once a week - I usually offroad 3 days in a row with my wife during most weeks.
So we love to go mudding, but we also love to play in the sand - that really fine powder sand that will eat your vehicle if you dont respect it.
Heres what Im going to tell you - if you go offroading you have money for your vehicle, and you know you have money for your vehicle. Air your tires down.
There are times Im lazy and I keep my tires aired up, I have way less traction and way less control. Airing down allows for better control in very slippery situations, and handles fine sand better. That said I have found that street tires with an air down handle this type of sand better than mud tires with an air down - although I havent gotten stuck in either while Ive seen people with much more expensive vehicles bury themselves up to the frame because they dont really know the ins and outs of respecting terrain.
A tire is just a tire, we are all spending money in suspension, drive train, engine maintenance and grip. Everything eventually breaks, and we always fix it. Be safe, air down your tires - youre more important than your vechile.
Just fit Central Tyre Inflation to your 4WD and you can set your tyres to where they need to be as you drive.
Great explanation!
After watching too many hours of yours/and others videos, I know I want 35" tires. I know I want Method 700 series wheels. I grew up with 10 ply tires being the normal/minimum. A shop is suggesting Mickey Thomson legend which is only a 2 ply or a Boss AT that is 3 ply. It's hard to get away from what has been drilled in my head. I've only blown a few tires in years of offroading and it was always Sidewall Damage from a rock or stick! I'm frustrated! **** What sidewall ply is best for airing down without compromising? 🥴😵💫😤😡👿 Somebody please tell me.
10 ply is for the part that touches the road 3 ply for side wall. 2 ply is standard. 3 ply is considered heavy duty.
The design of those icons is pretty slick. I may weld in some nuts on the inside bead of my weld-ons to keep them from coming off.
Do you have a vid on P vs LT vs E rated tires for off road? I'm out in Arizona and I run E rated K02 on a Wrangler Diesel. I'm wondering if a P Wildpeak would be fine too? Looking for more comfort on road but tough enough in AZ due to a bad back. Most of the time, I'm on rocky hard pack forest service roads with some sandwash. Nothing too crazy. Thanks!
Let us know if this helps: ua-cam.com/video/37Cb4egMZ8o/v-deo.html
I’ve never owned a jeep new enough that the stickers were still visible on the doors
Yes air down it’s fine, just know your limits
What I like best about the off-roaders is the sound your tires make when you are coming down the highway at 50mph. I especially enjoy the safety factor involved because I can hear you coming a half mile away. You people are so considerate to us that live next to a paved road.
So appreciate your videos!
Glad you like them! Thanks for the support Dan!
I got 37 on 17 inch steel rims with iron man's tires has anyone ran these in the rocks any comments would be appreciated
.
2:32 what wheels are those? Im looking all over black Rhino's website and cant seem to find them.
You guys rolling with Jerry from Camburg?
Light Bright has built a very capable jeep
how does airing down for contact patch increase contrast with your other video about narrow vs wide tires etc?
The airing down helps with essentially smooshing the tire to have a flatter more grounded base which will in return make climbing easier. Versus the wide and narrow tires that will just help have a modified stance which can be beneficial but not much to the extent of helping grip the ground underneath when climbing.
Nice video cheers! I have the method 701 trail series wheels and love them!
Who drives the dark blue 2dr JL @3:30 and @3:58? Hardcore and looks like a stock JL!
Lots of great information here.👍
Glad it was helpful!
I carry two air compressors, just because I would freak out of only having one... Also with two, I can air up quicker.
Great video and very informative!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great content. Lets see a video on portals!
In emergencies, you can inflate tires by setting them on fire. I just keep a can of gasoline and a match in my Rubicon. Way lighter and I can't huff an air compressor.
Creative... I like it! 😂
And that also helps Search and Rescue find you!
I use the starting fluid method to re-seat the bead.
Um... Introducing a new emergency won't always cancel out the initial emergency.
Is this going to be one of those videos where the title tells you not to do something but then the actual video tells you to do it?
i cant seem to find a good low presure. i think my car is too light lol
That can be a factor.
Why are beadlock not DOT approved? Dreams like a safer combo all the way around to me.
Check this video out: ua-cam.com/video/9cKhnkQv3Cw/v-deo.html
Pop a bead at 80MPH and tell me how safe you feel! 😂😂😂
Why the hell would you want to go 80 in 4x4 in the 1st place. I have 38.5 Boggers it will go 70 but I don't like it lol.
Great content in the video, keep a spare folks and make sure you have beer to give the guys that help you out. It might be me.
Lite Brite Nation 🎉 woohoo🤙🏻
A friend of mine told me NOT to ever air down because it can damage the tire (something about the steel belt separating, I think). Is that true? (I watched the video because I thought you were confirming that statement, but I don't think you were.) Are these offroad tires steel belted radials or something different? (You can see that I don't know much about tires, so thank you.)
It can if you are driving at higher speeds or on the highway.
That won't happen at lower speeds. Modern tyres are pretty tough. Logging trucks which use Central Tyre Inflation sometimes include speed sensors so that if the truck is going faster than 60 kph for 1 minute+ while pressures are still low, the software will automatically bump drive wheel pressure back up to highway pressures, just in case the driver forgets to manually select the higher tyre pressure.
@litebrite the step child makes for good b roll
Thank you for this video , I always run differing air pressures front to rear .. the back always gets less than the fronts (PU truck, nothing but a 5 gallon water can in the bed) if it's not bad then 30psi/25psi or if worse it's 25psi/20psi ... 285/70/17 on stock wheels
Or Rock Monster DOT approved double bead lock
Viar air compressors
Are the way to go. The cheap ones burn up and are a waste of money.
Hey it’s Stepchild and Kevin
I noticed they use a lot of lite brite footage.
We’ve started noticing as well.
this got over complicated. just lower to mid 30's for comfort and high 20's for rocks.
Aloha from Hawai’i
First
1 psi for every inch you have in wheel size is the rule of thumb for a safe pressure to run for new wheelers, 15" wheel 15psi.
I like 2 lbs in my buggy
Video Rating 3/10
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The balloon is going to pop lol
Lite brite nation !!!!
This is my first time watching this channel. I marked it as do not recommend due to its clickbait title. Your content may be good, but that title is a turnoff.
A bit repetitive but good info thank you
Don't air down on Australian soft sand beaches and your vehicle will become a submarine as the tide comes in.
Noted! I don't know when I'll be there but I am hoping soon! 😂
Cool