I actually recently built a hover-tank with a burst fire 1m railgun, meant for about 3.5km range. Turns out a lot of designs won't even bother firing at you if you're that far out.
@@youraverageengineer6957 Well, a CRAM Mortar but using aps instead. For your own sanity: Its not viable in any scenario. Is it fun? Hell yes. I recommend just rying an aps railgun mortar with 500mm HESH Shells and a grav component. Shell speed needs to be 125 or less so the shell doesnt go into space when firing from water. It has a range of 1km, but its quite a lot of fun to have a burst fire weapon that has the label madness written all over it
Since with historical builds I often struggle to make semi competent turrets in auxiliary spots(so on the port and starboard side of the craft) because of turret width issues I usually give my tetris a bit of a butt, makes them unable to turn 360 degrees but that's largely irrelevant since there's superstructure behind the turrets 9/10 times.
@@juanordonezgalban2278 Yeah with historical builds I often have a lot of internal space so you might as well use it optimally by making the below deck part of the turret deeper.
You can prevent the "unfortunate symbolism" by sticking 2 input feeder each to two clips and leave the other ones without feeders (Also elminates the need for rotational symmetry). Every input feeder can feed all clips attached to the same autoloader. Just use clear clips and you will see each clip loaded one by one and not all that have feeders at the same time. Thats also why input feeders attached to autoloaders can still fill attached clips.
@@thebevil8127 Each autoloader and all of it's attached clips form a group, let's call it "magazine", which is only related to that one autoloader. Any input feeder attached to this "magazine" fills one of the clips at a time until it is full and then proceeds to fill the next, until all are full.
@@dr.robertnick9599 oooh so wait if you put two input feeders (one on each side) on a "magazine" but the other "magazine" has no input feeders, once the magazine with all the input feeders is full first, the other magazine will magically start to be reloaded? (i assume the input feeder still has to be next to the other magazine)
@@thebevil8127 Not quite. What i called the magazine is a single loader with its attached clips in a group, it's not actually a thing. Forget I used that word, it doesn't really clarify anything. If you have a loader with two clips attached and only one clip has input feeders attached, one clip will get filled and then the other clip gets filled, even though only one has input feeders. I suggest starting FTD and trying this out for yourself. I also figured it out by just experimenting a bit and asking questions, like "What happens if you connect an input feeder to a loader with clips? Does it do anything after the loader has its one shell?" The game has difficult mechanics but it actually does a good job showing what is happening.
12:00 As far as I know, having less inputs than the game requires doesn't hurt rate of fire, at least not until you've fired all your shells faster than they replenish. For any non prolonged battle like a tournament, this is generally fine. Here with 516 shells in the clips and only a 20% difference between firing and loading, you would be fine for a good while longer than any reasonable fight. So, I'd say this is better than the next one shown! 16:00 Might want to mention, since this isn't well known apparently, that belt fed autoloaders get a higher bonus to loading time the lower you go in gauge, down to a whooping 12% at 18mm. Over iirc 50mm, a beltfed loader loads slower than a 5-clip regular loader. Other than that and the lack of 5-clip autoloaders, pretty good summary of what's what.
1:12 I found that the best CRAM Tetris design I could make basically is a swatstika so when I join them together to make bigger cannons there is literally just a grid of swatstikas that I can’t do anything about lol
@@IainDoherty51 Yeah, I probably shoud concentrate on building something floaty to carry what I came up with so far before I try my hand at that kind of 3d tetris.
For the ultimate compact design, ditch the auto loaders and clips entirely. Put ammo feeders right on the firing piece. (It's stupid, but it does actually work)
@@Tolwrath yea direct input feeders are slow tho. I don't know if this still works but back when the advanced cannons where still relatively new you could exceed the shell length limit with direct input feeder cannons
You still can, but not by as much, due to the limit on shell parts. Though, because of the railgun rework, you wouldn't need as many (or even any) casings for shells of that size.
Did you know you can make an aps cannon without clips or auto loaders? Doing so allows you to make shells that exceed 8m in length, for utterly stupid, albeit slow, amounts of damage. It actually used to be more powerful before the shell part limit was added.
Well 26 minutes, but happily the pace of the Video is slow like always 😉 After i realized how to balance the thing my main Problem is: find a good Shell. Maybe this would be a Video i would like. Not the "how to build a shell" - more like a "this is a very good Shell for Speedy targets" or "this is a good Shell for armored targets" - possibly with a explanation why.
Your "unfortunate symbolism" loader ring is actually my favourite 1 m APS tetris. Four clip, and sure it doesn't have enough inputs... but in your 60 mm example, each loader loses 1 shell every 7 seconds, and has 129 shells available, so you can shoot at full ROF for 15 minutes! And you can put four of those loader rings onto the sides of a 3x3 gauge snake core (or 6 on the sides with a 3x1 gauge snake core) to fit very nicely in a 5x5 turret.
I'm working on a two turret Cwis,1 meter belt fed 30mm that both work with a central targeting ai. Both are 5 meters from it to the left and right. I almost have it working correctly.
30mm is a wee bit small for FtD standards, 50mm is pretty good for CIWS and also AA. If you want to have any decent anti-ship, 80mm will still work with large and huge missiles.
You kinda can make beltfed loaders reload while you fire... If you have enough of them. XD (but the rpm and cost go all over the place) One thing that bothers me with APS is that the recoil and rail charge values shown are always for the max sustained fire RPM possible, not the one that you set on the APS menu/tab. I ended up building a lot of expensive APS because of not knowing that.
Also good thing to note that more intakes on the clip the beltfed has, the shorter the reload. Like one extra intake on one clip large beltfeeder bumps the downtime to 25& Also, for multibarrel APS, having equal amount of beltfeds for the barrels means less RPM going to places and more dakka I do sorta wish that with non-belt feds, you could have higher autoloader speed to spend the clips you have attached and then have RPM downgrade (or set the guns to wait and reload), but no. Non-beltfed pretty much hard limit firing speed to lowest RPM of the three components.
My latest project is a ship with guns on the bottom that are made to shoot at subs. Only problem is, idk what shell type is best to use against them. Flak-HE seems to work pretty good against the Pequod, but I doubt it would be useful against anything heavier.
For a 3x3 turret I usually use the following pattern for each layer C: cooler A: autoloader S: solid ammo clip I: input feeder I A S I C I S A I It might not be the most efficient, but it keeps the coolers under the deck so the turret cap can be smaller and more heavily armoured
The "unfortunate symbolism" does have enough room to squeeze in the extra intakes: remove one of the four clips, put an intake directly on the autoloader there, and turn the autoloader from that clip 90 degrees so that it connects to the back of the other clip. As an added bonus, it removes the unfortunate symbolism.
Heres a strategy for making APS turrets. 1. Design your shell(s) 2. find the internal volume you have to work with 3. Ratio your components by making your gun outside the turret, not worrying about shape just the total volume and optimizing gun to your shell(s). 4. Make the ammo boxes and engines to power it. 5. Fit the gun's blocks into a turret and try to maximize the clip to loader ratio. P.S. since when could APS clips be rotated compared to the visual on the auto loader?
I have a question: Aside from well, LOOKS, does giving a gun multiple barrels give you an advantage in a CIWS turret? (assuming ample cooling for a high rate of fire) I have done a tiny bit of testing myself, and it feels like single barrel is just as good as minigun-style barrel, and also lacks the extra inaccuracy. So is there really a functional point to minigun-style CIWS turrets?
One tip as someone who can only effectively build APS and sucks at CRAM is that you should stick to kinetic for small shell lengths and only go for HE/FRAG/FLAK/HESH/HEAT at shell lengths over 3m, because it starts becoming viable to place ammo ejectors and emergency defuses into your APS systems without massively impacting their performance. That way you can at least guarantee that a single shell will never be able to knock of an entire turret and also keep decent DPS.
I somehow suck more at larger gun tetris than small gun tetris, also I thought I was done with my chemistry review then I scrolled down and said "fuck".
you only need 2 feeders to a standard loader in general, which can save a ton of space mathmatically, but adding a single magazine helps smooth out sync issues where they try to load at the same time, but one can't because there's already a round in the loader. The only reason to have multiple magazines per loader is with the belt-fed if you want a longer burst. The only issue overall with small APS guns is getting any meaningful damage out of it when mounted as a primary weapon on a small ship.
Someone's already pointed it out (Or you already did and my nouget brain missed it), but gauge increases are best for necks (even if you don't need them) because they're damn cheap!
Yeah smaller profiles for turret caps or deck guns are better in most cases. Avoiding dmg means less upfront armor and repair costs, especially given how much HE dmg falls off in open air and how few fragments a frag shell spits out.
with these designs where would you fit gauge increases, particularity with the two unfortunate symbolism ones all of the snake seems to be made up of coolers, would i swap some of those out for gauge increases?
Yup! Coolers and gauge-increases occupy the same spaces. You just need as many as needed, then start using connectors if you can (since they're cheaper).
Did you see the testing they did in United Builders on armour. The 1m beam slope outperformed poles, airgaps, 4m slopes, and solid armour against HEAT, HESH and AP shells.
@@BorderWise12 Mostly just a wall of text and a photo of his test platform. Date 05/16 @ 1:16am. Lt. Wuzz talking. Channel FTD - Casual. Search for "I got the test bench" and it'll put you at the beginning of the chat.
Well I tried FTD today... my first creation is going to be my last. I spent about as much time fighting the controls as I did building. I tried building a Hydrofoil since I figured it'd be simple to get going and moving about. It was practically flying at some point, then once it stopped doing Loops in the air and was actually working "normally", it couldn't maneuver properly (I checked, double checked, triple checked and quadruple checked the thrusters and the A.I nothing in them was wrong), then somehow the A.I got turned "off" (It wasn't) making it so that the LWCs attached to decoy launchers stopped working, then I gave up after another like hour of trying to fix everything and uninstalled since there is no way in hell I'm going to even attempt to try and make it work without starting on my Anti-Depressants once I get them, and even then I doubt I'll even give the game a second chance.
@@BorderWise12 It wouldn't have been an issue if the game didn't fight me every step of the way. Tried to make a prefab, had to fight with it to get controls back to actually make and copy it, A.I "turns off" and there is no way to turn it back on, etc. Then if I compare it to say Space Engineers, in that game I'm able to build crafts reasonably quickly because the game doesn't fight me for every single centimeter or randomly strip me of my controls while also making issues with the craft itself. EDIT: Reinstalled to try and make a larger ship and it won't stop capsizing, no matter how many areas I add to put Airpumps in, how many props are on the sides, or how I mess with the PIDs, all that happens is it capsizes slightly slower, but will still eventually capsize.
@@TheFearsomeRat I've had very few of the issues you're having. Maybe it's because I tried to learn a bit about the game before hand or something else though. I've never had a single problem with prefabs, my only gripe with them is using really large ones is a bit unwieldy. I don't know what control setting you are using but I use the keyboard based and it did take a little getting used to, but it wasn't too bad. I've never built a hydrofoil, only ships, tanks, a few planes and a helicopter. However I definitely recommend a simple ship or tank first. The AI never turns off on its own, either you turned it off yourself or you didn't set it up correctly, or it somehow got destroyed. If it does turn off for whatever reason you can press C and choose which setting the AI is on. If it doesn't appear that means the AI was destroyed. Re: large ship capsizing, learn some basic physics. It sounds like you're building way too tall and narrow, with a really high centre of mass. You want the centre of mass to be as low as possible, you can do that a few ways. The simplest is to add a load of lead to the bottom of the ship. Making a low but wide hull is another option. Another is to include empty space in the upper parts of the ship, with heavy stuff like engines, magazines, etc being low down. You should minimise empty space filled with air pumps low in the ship. To help with floatability I recommend alloy armour for anywhere not important. Using these most of my ships float very well with no capsizing, without PIDs or stability props because they just aren't necessary. Another possibility is your centre of mass is off-centre, in which case you need to redistribute your mass. The centre of mass should be as close to the physical centre of the ship in lengths and breadth as possible, and as low as possible. If your centre of mass is significantly off centre or above half way up the hull you will have significant stability issues.
Oh wow, a BorderWise upload on my birthday about something I've been trying to work on in FTD? What a wonderful birthday present!
I’m oddly obsessed with making 1m rail guns
As am I, but I have a further obsession with putting the aforementioned 1m rail guns on really tiny stealth corvettes.
Max draw 50mm heavy head is a wonderful thing, isn't it?
@@_tyrannus I prefer Sabot rounds
I actually recently built a hover-tank with a burst fire 1m railgun, meant for about 3.5km range. Turns out a lot of designs won't even bother firing at you if you're that far out.
@@Attaxalotl Sabot railgun seems excessive, exchanging lots of critical DPS for pointless AP.
Finally a guide series to make my aps mortars even better!
Apps mortars whack
Hmmmmmmm
whats an aps mortar?
@@youraverageengineer6957 Well, a CRAM Mortar but using aps instead.
For your own sanity: Its not viable in any scenario. Is it fun? Hell yes.
I recommend just rying an aps railgun mortar with 500mm HESH Shells and a grav component. Shell speed needs to be 125 or less so the shell doesnt go into space when firing from water. It has a range of 1km, but its quite a lot of fun to have a burst fire weapon that has the label madness written all over it
@@Justfalor HUH sounds fun
Crazy 1m APS cannons are so wonderful, gotta love 900rpm 150mm cannons
I created an 8m long shell-spitting 500mm cannon that fires at 2400 rpm
@@ProtoAzula does it happen to be a glass cannon?
Also how expensive was it lol
Twin barreled 15cm Colbert-styled ship
god... that's a bit too much DAKKA DAKKA
@@terrsus7676 it was literally just a cannon and costs 800 000 materials
@@ProtoAzula haha nice
Since with historical builds I often struggle to make semi competent turrets in auxiliary spots(so on the port and starboard side of the craft) because of turret width issues I usually give my tetris a bit of a butt, makes them unable to turn 360 degrees but that's largely irrelevant since there's superstructure behind the turrets 9/10 times.
That's actually a genious idea! Still better than a casemate.
@@juanordonezgalban2278 Yeah with historical builds I often have a lot of internal space so you might as well use it optimally by making the below deck part of the turret deeper.
Yay, small guns are something I'm bad at, unfortunately I'm equally bad at large vehicles, so at least now my small vehicles can be properly armed.
You can prevent the "unfortunate symbolism" by sticking 2 input feeder each to two clips and leave the other ones without feeders (Also elminates the need for rotational symmetry). Every input feeder can feed all clips attached to the same autoloader. Just use clear clips and you will see each clip loaded one by one and not all that have feeders at the same time. Thats also why input feeders attached to autoloaders can still fill attached clips.
Oooh, cheers! Did not know that.
im confused trying to imagine this, is there a way you could try to explain this differently?
@@thebevil8127 Each autoloader and all of it's attached clips form a group, let's call it "magazine", which is only related to that one autoloader. Any input feeder attached to this "magazine" fills one of the clips at a time until it is full and then proceeds to fill the next, until all are full.
@@dr.robertnick9599 oooh so wait if you put two input feeders (one on each side) on a "magazine" but the other "magazine" has no input feeders, once the magazine with all the input feeders is full first, the other magazine will magically start to be reloaded?
(i assume the input feeder still has to be next to the other magazine)
@@thebevil8127 Not quite. What i called the magazine is a single loader with its attached clips in a group, it's not actually a thing. Forget I used that word, it doesn't really clarify anything.
If you have a loader with two clips attached and only one clip has input feeders attached, one clip will get filled and then the other clip gets filled, even though only one has input feeders.
I suggest starting FTD and trying this out for yourself. I also figured it out by just experimenting a bit and asking questions, like "What happens if you connect an input feeder to a loader with clips? Does it do anything after the loader has its one shell?" The game has difficult mechanics but it actually does a good job showing what is happening.
Need all that dakka for that sweet ass CIWS!
I'm still trying to get that battlestar galactica feeling with my cwis
I actually love 2m autos because you can fill practically any space with those
12:00 As far as I know, having less inputs than the game requires doesn't hurt rate of fire, at least not until you've fired all your shells faster than they replenish. For any non prolonged battle like a tournament, this is generally fine. Here with 516 shells in the clips and only a 20% difference between firing and loading, you would be fine for a good while longer than any reasonable fight. So, I'd say this is better than the next one shown!
16:00 Might want to mention, since this isn't well known apparently, that belt fed autoloaders get a higher bonus to loading time the lower you go in gauge, down to a whooping 12% at 18mm. Over iirc 50mm, a beltfed loader loads slower than a 5-clip regular loader.
Other than that and the lack of 5-clip autoloaders, pretty good summary of what's what.
Cheers! Didn't know about the low-gauge loading bonus. No wonder 18mm belt-feds load so fast!
@@BorderWise12 I was blissfully unaware of that until not too long ago, so don't feel too bad! :D
Wow! I didn't know you can use autoloaders without magsazines!
1:12 I found that the best CRAM Tetris design I could make basically is a swatstika so when I join them together to make bigger cannons there is literally just a grid of swatstikas that I can’t do anything about lol
Yeah, it is an unfortunately convenient geometric shape. 😅
@@BorderWise12 no wonder the british feared bismarck
Much smaller than my Non-Beltfed 1m Autoloader loader design, and faster. But a bit more expensive.
Thanks for the video! I just got back into FtD and I am back on the learning curve
"...central column of autoloaders and ammo clips..."
Thanks, now I've got to redesign my railguns.
Again.
Nah. Like I said, there's many ways to do this. If it works, it works.
@@BorderWise12 Oh, they work fine. It's just that I can get rid of some useless 6-way connectors doing it your way.
Just wait until you discover 5-Clip Tetris ;D
Amongst the tourney building crowd there are many ridiculous things that people have figured out :P
@@IainDoherty51 Yeah, I probably shoud concentrate on building something floaty to carry what I came up with so far before I try my hand at that kind of 3d tetris.
Oh thank christ, I needed this. I am so bad at making compact APS.
For the ultimate compact design, ditch the auto loaders and clips entirely. Put ammo feeders right on the firing piece. (It's stupid, but it does actually work)
@@Tolwrath yea direct input feeders are slow tho. I don't know if this still works but back when the advanced cannons where still relatively new you could exceed the shell length limit with direct input feeder cannons
You still can, but not by as much, due to the limit on shell parts. Though, because of the railgun rework, you wouldn't need as many (or even any) casings for shells of that size.
I watched so many bids I should subscribe, I made in abt 10 mins a double aa that both fire at 420rpm, it melts planes
Did you know you can make an aps cannon without clips or auto loaders? Doing so allows you to make shells that exceed 8m in length, for utterly stupid, albeit slow, amounts of damage. It actually used to be more powerful before the shell part limit was added.
Yup. I made a guide on that waaaaay back in the day.
Well 26 minutes, but happily the pace of the Video is slow like always 😉
After i realized how to balance the thing my main Problem is: find a good Shell. Maybe this would be a Video i would like. Not the "how to build a shell" - more like a "this is a very good Shell for Speedy targets" or "this is a good Shell for armored targets" - possibly with a explanation why.
Short answer: sabot shells for both of those. :D
But yeah, I should do another 'handy shells' guide.
Your "unfortunate symbolism" loader ring is actually my favourite 1 m APS tetris. Four clip, and sure it doesn't have enough inputs... but in your 60 mm example, each loader loses 1 shell every 7 seconds, and has 129 shells available, so you can shoot at full ROF for 15 minutes! And you can put four of those loader rings onto the sides of a 3x3 gauge snake core (or 6 on the sides with a 3x1 gauge snake core) to fit very nicely in a 5x5 turret.
After watching this I realized I had been making aps guns wrong the entire time
That's how I felt when I had people explain it to me. XD
👍
I'm working on a two turret Cwis,1 meter belt fed 30mm that both work with a central targeting ai. Both are 5 meters from it to the left and right. I almost have it working correctly.
30mm is a wee bit small for FtD standards, 50mm is pretty good for CIWS and also AA. If you want to have any decent anti-ship, 80mm will still work with large and huge missiles.
You kinda can make beltfed loaders reload while you fire... If you have enough of them. XD (but the rpm and cost go all over the place)
One thing that bothers me with APS is that the recoil and rail charge values shown are always for the max sustained fire RPM possible, not the one that you set on the APS menu/tab. I ended up building a lot of expensive APS because of not knowing that.
Also good thing to note that more intakes on the clip the beltfed has, the shorter the reload. Like one extra intake on one clip large beltfeeder bumps the downtime to 25&
Also, for multibarrel APS, having equal amount of beltfeds for the barrels means less RPM going to places and more dakka
I do sorta wish that with non-belt feds, you could have higher autoloader speed to spend the clips you have attached and then have RPM downgrade (or set the guns to wait and reload), but no. Non-beltfed pretty much hard limit firing speed to lowest RPM of the three components.
My latest project is a ship with guns on the bottom that are made to shoot at subs. Only problem is, idk what shell type is best to use against them. Flak-HE seems to work pretty good against the Pequod, but I doubt it would be useful against anything heavier.
Supercav kinetic is the best against subs
Stuff like mid gauge Sabo head solid casings or just Sabo stick holowpoint head spam works well.
Shouldn't it be ACS for "advanced cannon system"? What does the "p" stand for, projectile? I haven't seen that term used at all ingame.
For a 3x3 turret I usually use the following pattern for each layer
C: cooler
A: autoloader
S: solid ammo clip
I: input feeder
I A S
I C I
S A I
It might not be the most efficient, but it keeps the coolers under the deck so the turret cap can be smaller and more heavily armoured
Loved the video Borderwise! Loved how your 16 inch gun just wasn't firing for no apparent reason!
Smol cannons for smol ships big cannons for big ships!
Me: Screw it big cannons for everything!
tip: just dont fucking use beltfeeders! (unless you only have room for 1 or 2 autoloaders)
Thank you BorderWise. Very cool.
Today I learnt you can connect autoloaders to each other.
*Sigh.*
Here I go redoing all of my APS turrets, then...
Ah yes, the FtD moment when you see all the work you have to do now... 😅
i keep on having a issue where i have ammo in clips but it still says that the gun needs to reload
The "unfortunate symbolism" does have enough room to squeeze in the extra intakes: remove one of the four clips, put an intake directly on the autoloader there, and turn the autoloader from that clip 90 degrees so that it connects to the back of the other clip. As an added bonus, it removes the unfortunate symbolism.
That's more of a con than a bonus/j
Heres a strategy for making APS turrets.
1. Design your shell(s)
2. find the internal volume you have to work with
3. Ratio your components by making your gun outside the turret, not worrying about shape just the total volume and optimizing gun to your shell(s).
4. Make the ammo boxes and engines to power it.
5. Fit the gun's blocks into a turret and try to maximize the clip to loader ratio.
P.S. since when could APS clips be rotated compared to the visual on the auto loader?
For the P.S. the visual hasn't mattered for a long long time. Hell you can get away with 5 clip loaders
@@azaty1721 These completely eye opening implications only works for 1m clips right?
Could you do an aps ciws tutorial? I'm having such a hard time to make one that's at least functional
I'm planning to, yes!
I have a question: Aside from well, LOOKS, does giving a gun multiple barrels give you an advantage in a CIWS turret? (assuming ample cooling for a high rate of fire) I have done a tiny bit of testing myself, and it feels like single barrel is just as good as minigun-style barrel, and also lacks the extra inaccuracy. So is there really a functional point to minigun-style CIWS turrets?
Multiple barrels gives a cooling bonus... and that's basically it, yes.
@@BorderWise12 Gotcha. Well, no more miniguns then. Harder to make phalanx-looking turret caps anyhow XD
Is it alright Borderwise if I hint down the person that disliked this video?
No need to bother, cheers. 😁
You forgot about 5-clip
I left out a lot of stuff... because there is a LOT of stuff. 😅
i dont really see a use for effective 5-clip tetris
@@ripoffpingu it reduces the cost of the autoloader portion more than APS was balanced around
@@Cheesecannon25 yeah but you lose too much space for 5 clip tetris to actually be effective
@@ripoffpingu you don't lose any space
I've done lots of optimized 5-clip guns without unused space
couldn't find APS platform in your workshop. Would be great if you upload em as well (=
Can't do that at the moment, but when I start uploading FtD videos again be sure to remind me and I will! 👍
@@BorderWise12 will do thanks!
One tip as someone who can only effectively build APS and sucks at CRAM is that you should stick to kinetic for small shell lengths and only go for HE/FRAG/FLAK/HESH/HEAT at shell lengths over 3m, because it starts becoming viable to place ammo ejectors and emergency defuses into your APS systems without massively impacting their performance. That way you can at least guarantee that a single shell will never be able to knock of an entire turret and also keep decent DPS.
I somehow suck more at larger gun tetris than small gun tetris, also I thought I was done with my chemistry review then I scrolled down and said "fuck".
you only need 2 feeders to a standard loader in general, which can save a ton of space mathmatically, but adding a single magazine helps smooth out sync issues where they try to load at the same time, but one can't because there's already a round in the loader. The only reason to have multiple magazines per loader is with the belt-fed if you want a longer burst. The only issue overall with small APS guns is getting any meaningful damage out of it when mounted as a primary weapon on a small ship.
Someone's already pointed it out (Or you already did and my nouget brain missed it), but gauge increases are best for necks (even if you don't need them) because they're damn cheap!
Yeah smaller profiles for turret caps or deck guns are better in most cases. Avoiding dmg means less upfront armor and repair costs, especially given how much HE dmg falls off in open air and how few fragments a frag shell spits out.
"Unfortunate Symbolism"
LMAO!
I first misread the title as 1M (or 1 million) loaders. I was somewhat confused by the small turrets at first, until I realised my mistake.
Awesome video! The tutorial made by community members like you reaaally help, so much so I'd give up on the game without them!
Bruh, I used to always use 1m loaders for everything
with these designs where would you fit gauge increases, particularity with the two unfortunate symbolism ones all of the snake seems to be made up of coolers, would i swap some of those out for gauge increases?
Yup! Coolers and gauge-increases occupy the same spaces. You just need as many as needed, then start using connectors if you can (since they're cheaper).
probably not worth it to get into rail assisted APS, that's a different kind of pain...
How is it pain? It's practically free velocity
Did you see the testing they did in United Builders on armour. The 1m beam slope outperformed poles, airgaps, 4m slopes, and solid armour against HEAT, HESH and AP shells.
Nope! Did they share video footage of that?
@@BorderWise12 Mostly just a wall of text and a photo of his test platform. Date 05/16 @ 1:16am. Lt. Wuzz talking. Channel FTD - Casual. Search for "I got the test bench" and it'll put you at the beginning of the chat.
So for tanks is it still the same tetris or is it a completely different way of doing it due to the much smaller size of a tank?
Yes and no. It's basically the same, but with greater empahsis on being flat and small.
Well I tried FTD today... my first creation is going to be my last.
I spent about as much time fighting the controls as I did building.
I tried building a Hydrofoil since I figured it'd be simple to get going and moving about.
It was practically flying at some point, then once it stopped doing Loops in the air and was actually working "normally", it couldn't maneuver properly (I checked, double checked, triple checked and quadruple checked the thrusters and the A.I nothing in them was wrong), then somehow the A.I got turned "off" (It wasn't) making it so that the LWCs attached to decoy launchers stopped working,
then I gave up after another like hour of trying to fix everything and uninstalled since there is no way in hell I'm going to even attempt to try and make it work without starting on my Anti-Depressants once I get them, and even then I doubt I'll even give the game a second chance.
Don't give up too soon! FtD is not an easy game, and absolutely no one makes a perfect craft on their first try.
@@BorderWise12 It wouldn't have been an issue if the game didn't fight me every step of the way.
Tried to make a prefab, had to fight with it to get controls back to actually make and copy it, A.I "turns off" and there is no way to turn it back on, etc.
Then if I compare it to say Space Engineers, in that game I'm able to build crafts reasonably quickly because the game doesn't fight me for every single centimeter or randomly strip me of my controls while also making issues with the craft itself.
EDIT: Reinstalled to try and make a larger ship and it won't stop capsizing, no matter how many areas I add to put Airpumps in, how many props are on the sides, or how I mess with the PIDs, all that happens is it capsizes slightly slower, but will still eventually capsize.
@@TheFearsomeRat I've had very few of the issues you're having. Maybe it's because I tried to learn a bit about the game before hand or something else though.
I've never had a single problem with prefabs, my only gripe with them is using really large ones is a bit unwieldy. I don't know what control setting you are using but I use the keyboard based and it did take a little getting used to, but it wasn't too bad.
I've never built a hydrofoil, only ships, tanks, a few planes and a helicopter. However I definitely recommend a simple ship or tank first.
The AI never turns off on its own, either you turned it off yourself or you didn't set it up correctly, or it somehow got destroyed. If it does turn off for whatever reason you can press C and choose which setting the AI is on. If it doesn't appear that means the AI was destroyed.
Re: large ship capsizing, learn some basic physics. It sounds like you're building way too tall and narrow, with a really high centre of mass. You want the centre of mass to be as low as possible, you can do that a few ways. The simplest is to add a load of lead to the bottom of the ship. Making a low but wide hull is another option. Another is to include empty space in the upper parts of the ship, with heavy stuff like engines, magazines, etc being low down. You should minimise empty space filled with air pumps low in the ship. To help with floatability I recommend alloy armour for anywhere not important. Using these most of my ships float very well with no capsizing, without PIDs or stability props because they just aren't necessary. Another possibility is your centre of mass is off-centre, in which case you need to redistribute your mass. The centre of mass should be as close to the physical centre of the ship in lengths and breadth as possible, and as low as possible. If your centre of mass is significantly off centre or above half way up the hull you will have significant stability issues.
69 views.
nice.
Probably the first.
aps is not real aps is not real