For this night photos you often used a speedlight (bare bulb or with some kind of snoot). This gives hard light and sometime the pose needed to be adjusted to light or clearly defined shadows are visible). Why did not you not use soft light? The loss of power would be very small, since you need very little falsh power only. Did you intentionally wand to concentrate the added light on the model? I enjoyd the photos very much.
Hi Andreas. Thank you for your comment. I mostly used hard light for these shots for a few reasons. I like hard light at night because the environment is full of point light sources with high contrast so a softlight on my model may have less impact in the image. The next reason is that it allows me to control the light more easily using snoot and various flash positions. The last reason is that it is light and simple. Moving a softbox around in a street situation is a bit of a chore and less fun than using a single speedlight.
@@newcastlephotographycollege Acutally two of three reasons, namely "light and simple" and "easy control" are evident to me. But the other reason to match the quality of the added flash light with the quality of the ambient light at night makes perfect sense but was new to me. Thanks for explaining. You are a good educator.
Thanks for another great video. 1) What do you do about white balance with all the different light sources in addition to the flash? 2) Any problems with motion blurring when using the slower shutter speeds?
Hi Christopher. As you can see, the WB in the video is not great because of the various coloured light sources around the location. The stills , however, are lit 90% with flash so the WB should be ok. There may be a little rim effect on the non flash side of Indi that takes on the ambient but very little. When using the slower shutter speeds I need to keep Indi quite still if possible. The flash will freeze her but if she moves a bit there will be a small amount of blur around her. Generally it is not so much.
It’s called a pistol grip ball head mount. I have one that I use more with my monopod than the tripod because it really changes your framing when going from landscape to portrait orientation because it moves the plane of the camera 6-8 inches to the side which ends up being more pronounced the further away your subject is.
The stills from the shoot may have a blue tinge or appear to because of the ambient street light affecting the perception of colour in the shot. The camera WB was set to flash. Flash is generally a little bluer than daylight but the WB still should be ok. I'm not always particular about WB when shooting at night especially when we are moving around to so many different locations.
Hi John. All shots are front curtain synch. Contrary to popular belief, rear synch is hardly ever needed. I can't remember when I last used rear synch. Many photographers use it when it is totally unnecessary. The biggest problem with it is that you can't control the moment of flash to get the model's pose the way you want it.
For this night photos you often used a speedlight (bare bulb or with some kind of snoot). This gives hard light and sometime the pose needed to be adjusted to light or clearly defined shadows are visible). Why did not you not use soft light? The loss of power would be very small, since you need very little falsh power only. Did you intentionally wand to concentrate the added light on the model? I enjoyd the photos very much.
Hi Andreas. Thank you for your comment. I mostly used hard light for these shots for a few reasons. I like hard light at night because the environment is full of point light sources with high contrast so a softlight on my model may have less impact in the image. The next reason is that it allows me to control the light more easily using snoot and various flash positions. The last reason is that it is light and simple. Moving a softbox around in a street situation is a bit of a chore and less fun than using a single speedlight.
@@newcastlephotographycollege Acutally two of three reasons, namely "light and simple" and "easy control" are evident to me. But the other reason to match the quality of the added flash light with the quality of the ambient light at night makes perfect sense but was new to me. Thanks for explaining. You are a good educator.
I am a big fan of night photography, it just makes the pictures stand out from the majority.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Kenneth!
Thank you. Good stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it
Beautiful work Warren..
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for another great video. 1) What do you do about white balance with all the different light sources in addition to the flash? 2) Any problems with motion blurring when using the slower shutter speeds?
Hi Christopher. As you can see, the WB in the video is not great because of the various coloured light sources around the location. The stills , however, are lit 90% with flash so the WB should be ok. There may be a little rim effect on the non flash side of Indi that takes on the ambient but very little. When using the slower shutter speeds I need to keep Indi quite still if possible. The flash will freeze her but if she moves a bit there will be a small amount of blur around her. Generally it is not so much.
@@newcastlephotographycollege Thank you!
Thank you
Thanks Paradise.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
@@newcastlephotographycollege yeah myself s photographer I UA-cam photographers a inspiration
Could you tell me which accessory you use on top of the tripod to place the camera? It's easy to hold it vertically too
It’s called a pistol grip ball head mount. I have one that I use more with my monopod than the tripod because it really changes your framing when going from landscape to portrait orientation because it moves the plane of the camera 6-8 inches to the side which ends up being more pronounced the further away your subject is.
Yes. Troy is correct. It doesn't bother me that I need to re frame my shot when going from horiz to vert because I normally would need to anyway.
@@newcastlephotographycollege Yes, but could you tell me the model, and where to find it?
What is the white balance on the camera? some photos with flash, it looks bluish to me
The stills from the shoot may have a blue tinge or appear to because of the ambient street light affecting the perception of colour in the shot. The camera WB was set to flash. Flash is generally a little bluer than daylight but the WB still should be ok. I'm not always particular about WB when shooting at night especially when we are moving around to so many different locations.
Is the speedlight on TTL or manual?
Hi. Thanks for your question. I always use my flash on manual settings. TTL is too unreliable especially at night.
Are you using second curtain flash or first curtain flash on most of these?
Hi John. All shots are front curtain synch. Contrary to popular belief, rear synch is hardly ever needed. I can't remember when I last used rear synch. Many photographers use it when it is totally unnecessary. The biggest problem with it is that you can't control the moment of flash to get the model's pose the way you want it.
@@newcastlephotographycollege thanks, that is interesting. I have seen them use it for traffic trails and things like that…..thanks.
Good technique, but work on your styling and casting.