I know you don’t want to do the slotting with the larger slitting saw but your argument about the orientation of the knife being down and wasting material and needing to do a second op is nonsense. You have a 5 axis machine it would be machined in the exact same orientation as you are for the high feed
So you just had to tempt me again... It looks awesome. Im glad you decided to finish your prototype. Not every knife needs a pocket clip. Honestly I'm not sure i would want a pocket clip on such a classy gentleman's knife.
put a 1+ second dwell at bottom of cycle to allow chips to evacuate. you can actually calculate how long it takes the chip to come up and out based on drill twist rate and RPM. otherwise chip binds during retract which creates drag force higher than tensile strength of small through-coolant drill bit which has a tiny amount of cross sectional area.
in my experience carbide drills in general don't like like to be spotted and don't like to be pecked. This is because carbide drills (at least the 140 degree ones) are self centering and when you peck the drill tends to chatter on the way back in causing the drill to wear and potentially drilling oversize. If you have to spot the hole you want the spot to be the same angle as the drill.
About fuggin time John.... missed this. This is what made you great. I understand running a business is no easy task. You've been distracted. But this is the good stuff here.
Seems kind of silly if you have the slitting saw, use it in the 5 axis at a90 and Interpolate between the cxy axis to make your profile. Z would be used to center it in the frame. If you set your g54 to the center of the blank, you could use the slitting saw with c at 90/-90 x at 0, z set to 0 minus half the cutter thickness, and just use y and c to trace out the profile. High feed mill would achieve the same end really, you would just be using interpolating between z and x to profile and set depth.
Use a paint pen to mark on the vise nut which correlates with which torque wrench to use. Color coding is easier to quick reference than letters and numbers. I do the same with Allen head screws and the Allen wrenches to take the guessing out. Just my 2 cents.
We know you'll end up making a fixture to hold the handle upside down after the first upside op to finish the bottom. That'd be a good time to add some lightening holes/features.
Always entertaining. I think you are confused about what the expression, "Eyeballing" actually means. You don't need calipers to "Eyeball" something... You are forever the master of attention to details.
Really glad to see you bring back knifemaking Tuesdays. This was always one of my favorite things to see pop up on UA-cam. Great lessons from your shared experience. Welcome back John!
I love knifemaking tuesdays. So great to see an indepth episode where you show us all your troubles and thoughtprocesses to find solutions. I was so happy to see this episode and looking forward to the next ones to come. Greetings from Estonia.
Thanks so much for sharing the process broken tools and all. I had a rough day breaking tools on my Hurco I picked up when I visited your old shop in 2019! Great to see you back to long form youtube videos!
The squashed chips are a signal of excessive feed usually, that might be a problem, i also work with osg drills on a regular basis, osg has very good guides on drilling practices, ask your tool rep for them, they have been life changing for me.
I think I speak for a ll Grimsmo fans, we are beyond excited for the finished product! Personally really stoked to see you walk us through the process! Idk many others doing that! Thanks John!
Hey John, When you have a failed part because of one operation, why not carry on to another operation on the same scrapped part to prove out the rest of the process? Even though the part is scraped you could have still gotten a lot of data before restarting entirely. Best!
This is my first time seeing one of these videos I can't believe all the work that goes into this That definitely justifies the price looking forward to more videos
-- Mental checklist: "Di-iiid I do everything"? And I start screaming "PROBING! Probe the part!" =)) But I get that your WCS is probably somewhere on the vise
I am making my own integral and had problems with holding the part stable. Just ordered same vice that you use from Ceratizit I hope that it works out! By the way I use slitting saw with inserts from seco for the middle cut. Leaves very good surface!
Hello John, so beautiful to see all the emotions, hard work, trial and error that goes in to developing such a beautiful knife, step by step you really see the heart and soul going in to making something that has been in your head literally for years now, so cool!!
I had a great idea the other day to do that slit on a table saw (well not with a titanium handle lol)...hear me out....build a clamping fixture out of aluminum that completely encapsulates the blade....two pieces like a clam shell that bolts together.....set your fence, run it through the table saw at the correct cut depth......now go hold it in soft jaws and clean up the inside with a ball nose....of course like you said, you have the 5 axis, and you can do it the other way....but for someone making knives in a garage or small shop, you def can skin the cat other ways
Youve spent alot of money on machines, you really should spend some mo ey on a better CAD/CAM system, you would never have issues like in the beginning of your video.
Wow that intro music took me back lol. I gotta say you where a big inspiration for me to get into the manufacturing industry. Started watching back in high school and now im over in Europe checking out a new cheto gundrill we are purchasing for our shop.
That drill bit that broke, looks like feed rate was too high. The twist basically has the drill catching too much material and twisting its self off. But my first instinct overall is rpm is too low…… Also possible if the spot drill might have not been deep enough and loaded one tooth up more then the other or the stock is moving as it starts to drill.
You could do a finish step right after a roughing step to avoid that chatter on the inside, that way stock/stiffness is still there. Im sure you know but your strategy seemed a bit off.
You can use a tool for a stop. If you have an extra tool open I have a 1/2 dowel in a holder and program it to a spot and pause program for me to insert the part slide it to the dowel (stop) then clamp vise. Or sometime I will use the diameter of the shank on a tool to. Hope that makes sense and helps. just me two cents
Quick tip on how to center the piece faster with digital callipers: - zero on one side - measure the other - move either side to half the second measurement
My preference is to have one side as a constant. Then if I'm worried about stock consistency, such as a saw cut, I'll make the tool path run long on one side. That way it doesn't take a big bite on a long one saw cut. I'll set my calipers or whatever im using to a dimension and lock them there. Then just consistently set the left or right to that. Again just a preference.
Awesome to see the new build John. The journey has been amazing and I'm glad I've been able to see glimpse of it in person for almost the past 10 years!
I want so much for you to spend some time thinking about the dust problem in these knives. Best knife ever, when sharpened and reassembled just so. Beautiful deployment, awesome blades. Recently I just had to switch everyone at the shop back to a Sebenza, as we are a millwork shop, and the ambient dust and sawdust inevitably clogs up the Rask by the end of the day, preventing it from opening properly. It’s now a gentleman’s carry for me, but I miss the easy action and lightness every day in shop. It’s quite inconvenient to have to take it apart twice a day to ensure that it opens and closes/locks safely.
You and Saunders made me get my VF2. Loving CNC and making my own custom products! Nice video as always! Been watching since you got the tormach delivered to your garage 😂 that was awesome. Imagine owning a Kern!
Give walter titex drills a thought. They are probably the best solid carbide drills on the market. We use them every day. From 2MM up to 16MM, 3xd up to 40xd.
You could use any size slitting saw you want, the cut depth is only restricted by the radius of your arbor. You have some high end lathes that you could easily make a well balanced arbor, of your own choice of size. If your slitting saw tool holder is spinning in your spindle, the chances are your arbor shank is already spinning in your collet. If you get to that point, you’re pushing the blade too hard. Every machinist has blown up at least one slitting saw, get it over with so you know where the limit is, then work back from that.
Chips arent ejecting. High pressure might be compacting the chips, as opposed to letting the flute geometry to eject them naturally. I'd peck drill. Also could peck drill undersize, then ream, or do secondary drill operation with correct suze to open up to desired finished diameter.
Always ground your model in fusion. I’ve made that mistake before as well. So glad these videos are back. I have been watching your old ones for the past month now.
Thank you for making this video! I watched the whole thing and I thought it was too short, ha. I could feel your satisfaction when you finished it, can't wait for what is next! It's going to be an awesome knife, I want one.
So nice to see another knifemaking tuesday after so long. Back then when I did rebuild one of my first CNC mills, I saw you in the very first episode of knife making tuesday, and followed since. And decided that sometime I will also make a pocket knife with my CNC. And what a coincidence - in the last weeks I machined the very first blades for my _integral handle pocket knife_. We're one the same train - looking forward to your next episode!
Regarding centering the part in the kern dovetail vice. Could you just make something the shape of a set square, hold it against the part and the length of the other side hits against the vice. Super easy and quick. No fuss.
So its a plung style button lock. Wish you would have gone to a compression lock style button lock like the Brown Lock or the Spyderco smock. They seem to have a much better detent than the plunger style button lock.
I once said "Clearance is clearance" to myself having watched the spindlehousing, in full rapid speed, literally wipe away coolant that was sitting on the side of a part - without touching it. I nearly shat myself.
I know this forward thinking but I think a grimsmo axe for be a badass addition to the line up very Viking and very cool what you John could come up with!
Just watched the whole video in the UK and I hear the tension in your voice and see the relief in your expression? Don’t know why you put yourself through it but it’s a riveting watch thanks👍
I love seeing this process and level of detail, really interesting. I think many folks underestimate the amount of iterations, tests and minute adjustments that are needed to bring a product (of any kind) together. This is great, looking forward to seeing the final result someday!
I know you don’t want to do the slotting with the larger slitting saw but your argument about the orientation of the knife being down and wasting material and needing to do a second op is nonsense. You have a 5 axis machine it would be machined in the exact same orientation as you are for the high feed
Amazing!!!! ...and nice FLEX checking the time on your vintage Longines. 😇🤜🤛
The best part was getting inside your head while troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing that aspect of the process.
So you just had to tempt me again...
It looks awesome. Im glad you decided to finish your prototype. Not every knife needs a pocket clip. Honestly I'm not sure i would want a pocket clip on such a classy gentleman's knife.
put a 1+ second dwell at bottom of cycle to allow chips to evacuate. you can actually calculate how long it takes the chip to come up and out based on drill twist rate and RPM. otherwise chip binds during retract which creates drag force higher than tensile strength of small through-coolant drill bit which has a tiny amount of cross sectional area.
Why not make them out aluminum to prove program?
I can't believe it has been 8 years.
in my experience carbide drills in general don't like like to be spotted and don't like to be pecked. This is because carbide drills (at least the 140 degree ones) are self centering and when you peck the drill tends to chatter on the way back in causing the drill to wear and potentially drilling oversize. If you have to spot the hole you want the spot to be the same angle as the drill.
Sooooo happy to see this old style video!
About fuggin time John.... missed this. This is what made you great.
I understand running a business is no easy task. You've been distracted. But this is the good stuff here.
Seems kind of silly if you have the slitting saw, use it in the 5 axis at a90 and Interpolate between the cxy axis to make your profile. Z would be used to center it in the frame. If you set your g54 to the center of the blank, you could use the slitting saw with c at 90/-90 x at 0, z set to 0 minus half the cutter thickness, and just use y and c to trace out the profile.
High feed mill would achieve the same end really, you would just be using interpolating between z and x to profile and set depth.
Use a paint pen to mark on the vise nut which correlates with which torque wrench to use. Color coding is easier to quick reference than letters and numbers. I do the same with Allen head screws and the Allen wrenches to take the guessing out. Just my 2 cents.
IMO, that exposed blade stop goove on the blade thats exposed on the closed positon looks VERY unfinished. would honestly go back to deisng.
We know you'll end up making a fixture to hold the handle upside down after the first upside op to finish the bottom. That'd be a good time to add some lightening holes/features.
Always entertaining. I think you are confused about what the expression, "Eyeballing" actually means. You don't need calipers to "Eyeball" something... You are forever the master of attention to details.
Really glad to see you bring back knifemaking Tuesdays. This was always one of my favorite things to see pop up on UA-cam. Great lessons from your shared experience. Welcome back John!
So, it's an integrask?
I love knifemaking tuesdays. So great to see an indepth episode where you show us all your troubles and thoughtprocesses to find solutions. I was so happy to see this episode and looking forward to the next ones to come. Greetings from Estonia.
I thought i'm only gonna buy a Norseman and that'll be my one and only Grimsmo, but... now i REALLY want this thing. Whenever it's out.
Thanks for everything through the years guys.
"Stay Strong, Chase Excellence Brothers."
- Godspeed
Back here for the first KMT in 8 years! Looking forward to the series.
Thanks so much for sharing the process broken tools and all. I had a rough day breaking tools on my Hurco I picked up when I visited your old shop in 2019! Great to see you back to long form youtube videos!
The squashed chips are a signal of excessive feed usually, that might be a problem, i also work with osg drills on a regular basis, osg has very good guides on drilling practices, ask your tool rep for them, they have been life changing for me.
I think I speak for a ll Grimsmo fans, we are beyond excited for the finished product! Personally really stoked to see you walk us through the process! Idk many others doing that! Thanks John!
Hey John,
When you have a failed part because of one operation, why not carry on to another operation on the same scrapped part to prove out the rest of the process? Even though the part is scraped you could have still gotten a lot of data before restarting entirely.
Best!
A broken drill bit in the part would have caused havoc on the following tools. Just not worth it.
This is my first time seeing one of these videos I can't believe all the work that goes into this That definitely justifies the price looking forward to more videos
The intro music was nostalgic!!
Welcome back old friend! BTW Shaun Casey
Love the opening credits background on the computer!
This is where the fun begins
-- Mental checklist: "Di-iiid I do everything"?
And I start screaming "PROBING! Probe the part!" =)) But I get that your WCS is probably somewhere on the vise
I am making my own integral and had problems with holding the part stable. Just ordered same vice that you use from Ceratizit I hope that it works out! By the way I use slitting saw with inserts from seco for the middle cut. Leaves very good surface!
Hello John, so beautiful to see all the emotions, hard work, trial and error that goes in to developing such a beautiful knife, step by step you really see the heart and soul going in to making something that has been in your head literally for years now, so cool!!
What a great video! I retired 15 years ago. We cut Acrylic on a C&C router for boat hatches. That was before we got a new machine with a tool changer.
I had a great idea the other day to do that slit on a table saw (well not with a titanium handle lol)...hear me out....build a clamping fixture out of aluminum that completely encapsulates the blade....two pieces like a clam shell that bolts together.....set your fence, run it through the table saw at the correct cut depth......now go hold it in soft jaws and clean up the inside with a ball nose....of course like you said, you have the 5 axis, and you can do it the other way....but for someone making knives in a garage or small shop, you def can skin the cat other ways
Yes welcome back Knifemaking Tuesday's
Youve spent alot of money on machines, you really should spend some mo ey on a better CAD/CAM system, you would never have issues like in the beginning of your video.
Wow that intro music took me back lol. I gotta say you where a big inspiration for me to get into the manufacturing industry. Started watching back in high school and now im over in Europe checking out a new cheto gundrill we are purchasing for our shop.
Even though I think their knives are ridiculously over priced. I still respect johns efforts 😆
That drill bit that broke, looks like feed rate was too high. The twist basically has the drill catching too much material and twisting its self off. But my first instinct overall is rpm is too low……
Also possible if the spot drill might have not been deep enough and loaded one tooth up more then the other or the stock is moving as it starts to drill.
You could do a finish step right after a roughing step to avoid that chatter on the inside, that way stock/stiffness is still there. Im sure you know but your strategy seemed a bit off.
Excellent work, John! You really made it happen!
You can use a tool for a stop. If you have an extra tool open I have a 1/2 dowel in a holder and program it to a spot and pause program for me to insert the part slide it to the dowel (stop) then clamp vise. Or sometime I will use the diameter of the shank on a tool to. Hope that makes sense and helps. just me two cents
But you can salvage the part with a new in progress probing. I can't remember what it's called now in fusion.
If that handle weight bothers you on the first full knife, you're talented enough i bet you could hollow out the inside some with a lollipop endmill 😉
Really awesome project. Love to see these kind of videos. Curious how the knife will look in the end!
So your just makeing an integral kershaw tilt ............wtf
Do a wave pattern on the inside by cutting like a wave instead of straitline toolpaths. Maybe even tilt it like a way as well.
A slitting saw with "million little passes" should be much faster for roughing than a high feed end mill.
Holy crap I've been watching you for that many years? And I still remember the X2 😊
Such an energetic guy, very sad that all he does is knifes. I guess no engineering education.
Quick tip on how to center the piece faster with digital callipers:
- zero on one side
- measure the other
- move either side to half the second measurement
My preference is to have one side as a constant. Then if I'm worried about stock consistency, such as a saw cut, I'll make the tool path run long on one side. That way it doesn't take a big bite on a long one saw cut. I'll set my calipers or whatever im using to a dimension and lock them there. Then just consistently set the left or right to that. Again just a preference.
peck dril 30% diameter with full retract every peck??
I'd love to se the Rask with a forged carbon handle..
I kept hearing "slitting sauce" and I was not even batting an eye. XD
I see sandvik boxes! Thanks for the business :)
Pattern looks alot like Reate tiger with stripe pattern.
I love that making these knives still makes you giddy. 🙂
That’s brilliant! Shall we connect?
"I've done this before, once" 😅
EDM machine incoming 🚀
That’s what I was thinking. We break drill bits and just have the popped out with end. Still a good part.
My trifecta will be obsolete...
Awesome to see the new build John. The journey has been amazing and I'm glad I've been able to see glimpse of it in person for almost the past 10 years!
I want so much for you to spend some time thinking about the dust problem in these knives. Best knife ever, when sharpened and reassembled just so. Beautiful deployment, awesome blades. Recently I just had to switch everyone at the shop back to a Sebenza, as we are a millwork shop, and the ambient dust and sawdust inevitably clogs up the Rask by the end of the day, preventing it from opening properly. It’s now a gentleman’s carry for me, but I miss the easy action and lightness every day in shop. It’s quite inconvenient to have to take it apart twice a day to ensure that it opens and closes/locks safely.
Awesome.
Love these type of videos 😍
You and Saunders made me get my VF2. Loving CNC and making my own custom products! Nice video as always! Been watching since you got the tormach delivered to your garage 😂 that was awesome. Imagine owning a Kern!
Awesome job John! My guess with the drill bit was the missing retracts too. Nice result ❤
Give walter titex drills a thought. They are probably the best solid carbide drills on the market. We use them every day. From 2MM up to 16MM, 3xd up to 40xd.
You could use any size slitting saw you want, the cut depth is only restricted by the radius of your arbor. You have some high end lathes that you could easily make a well balanced arbor, of your own choice of size.
If your slitting saw tool holder is spinning in your spindle, the chances are your arbor shank is already spinning in your collet. If you get to that point, you’re pushing the blade too hard.
Every machinist has blown up at least one slitting saw, get it over with so you know where the limit is, then work back from that.
Chips arent ejecting. High pressure might be compacting the chips, as opposed to letting the flute geometry to eject them naturally. I'd peck drill. Also could peck drill undersize, then ream, or do secondary drill operation with correct suze to open up to desired finished diameter.
Always ground your model in fusion. I’ve made that mistake before as well. So glad these videos are back. I have been watching your old ones for the past month now.
Thank you for making this video! I watched the whole thing and I thought it was too short, ha. I could feel your satisfaction when you finished it, can't wait for what is next! It's going to be an awesome knife, I want one.
So nice to see another knifemaking tuesday after so long. Back then when I did rebuild one of my first CNC mills, I saw you in the very first episode of knife making tuesday, and followed since. And decided that sometime I will also make a pocket knife with my CNC.
And what a coincidence - in the last weeks I machined the very first blades for my _integral handle pocket knife_.
We're one the same train - looking forward to your next episode!
Regarding centering the part in the kern dovetail vice. Could you just make something the shape of a set square, hold it against the part and the length of the other side hits against the vice. Super easy and quick. No fuss.
Imagine going BACK to work at 10pm on a friday night because you're just too excited to wait. That's the dream 😅
So its a plung style button lock. Wish you would have gone to a compression lock style button lock like the Brown Lock or the Spyderco smock. They seem to have a much better detent than the plunger style button lock.
I've been following for over a decade, I'm part of the email list that they offer current knifes for sale, but I really want a Damascus blade. Matt C.
I once said "Clearance is clearance" to myself having watched the spindlehousing, in full rapid speed, literally wipe away coolant that was sitting on the side of a part - without touching it. I nearly shat myself.
I know this forward thinking but I think a grimsmo axe for be a badass addition to the line up very Viking and very cool what you John could come up with!
DON'T use the slitting saw! I've had my 3"x0.06 carbide walk off track a few times
Have followed you since before episode 1 AWSOME to see this design come to life!!!!
Thanks, John, for the in-depth long format. I love seeing your process and tenacity. Very inspiring.
Just watched the whole video in the UK and I hear the tension in your voice and see the relief in your expression? Don’t know why you put yourself through it but it’s a riveting watch thanks👍
All that beautiful tooling and you hand engraved the torque spec? 1/2 Grimsmo
I liked the original prototype 3d print better. This version is way too square. But probably way easier to make.
How awesome 😄😄
On centering your stock, make a center tic mark on your vise and a center tic mark on your stock for a faster set up.🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
You've come along way from the old Tormach in the garage :)
Yes. YES. YES. MORE. MORE. MORE.
Amazing! Would be interesting to see some closeups of those tiny high feed mills. All I've ever seen are large indexable ones.
A lot of work goes in making that knife, but I still want one as soon as you get them ready 👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍💯🔥🔥
Best caliper tip I’ve ever seen is to use the top flat and the edge behind the screen. Way better than using the stick.
I have never clicked on a video so fast! Yay for knifemaking Tuesdays!
Oh, that intro!!! 🙌. Are you really back, Johnny?? 😄
Super interesting to see this process and all that goes into it! Great video! Cant wait to see the final product!!
I think that the Scott Cook Lochsa was the first one-piece handle folder.
Saw 5 minutes, watched the rest this evening.
Many thanks.
Awesome work so far John. Very inspiring, excited to see where this goes!
I love seeing this process and level of detail, really interesting. I think many folks underestimate the amount of iterations, tests and minute adjustments that are needed to bring a product (of any kind) together. This is great, looking forward to seeing the final result someday!