I got a nice 3165 off Ebay and when I opened it up for inspection it was indeed the same sloppy work on the shielding. Biggest problem I had was it seemed someone hammered the gate time knob on the Pot shaft. Took over and hour and a half to gradually pry it off without damage. Still put a lot of strain on the shaft but it survived the ordeal. I removed the upper shield can and ended up bending the grounding tabs on the front side outwards so it layed flush on the front. Trying to push grounding tabs from top and bottom through the same hole was rediculous. The rear ones I was able to ground together easier and verified with a DVM. Seems the production people don't like fighting with the design and just stick it together as best they can. Otherwise internally it looks pretty good. Thanks for your production on this freq. counter!
It's pretty obvious that this was designed by guys who are primarily digital engineers - not RF ones! I bought one new for the equivalent of USD45 quite a few years ago. It is adequately accurate and sensitive for most purposes, but that stupid user interface and the mains switch on the back is VERY annoying. 😒
Thanks for the video. I would have also been interested to see a brief review of the way the circuit operates... a schematic, or even a hand drawing of the main operational functions, and what component part numbers they are using. But, a good video, all the same.
When I was shopping for a frequency counter, I was considering that one. I am very glad that I did not buy this one and settled on a ProTek B1000, which serves me well.
@@TonyAlbus No problem Tony. My wife and me really enjoy taking time out with in a nice coffee bar and I thought it would be nice to buy you and your wife a coffee this time. 5.01K and growing. You are on a roll now.
I seems quite common for these to display random counts with no signal applied. Once a good strong signal is applied the display always stabilizes and registers correct frequency. The reset makes the display zero but once I release I get random display without an input. Is this all due to poor shielding or is this something unique to the design circuitry? Where can I find a schematic?
Some remarks about the VC3165: the schematic that goes around on some places (the yellow one) is from the victor VC2000, NOT the VC3165. One difference that is obvious is that channel A and B are interchanged. On the VC2000 channel A is the high frequency (50 mHz - 2.4 GHz), and the low is channel B (.01Hz - 50 MHz). On the VC3165 that is the other way around. You can recognise that partly in the interface of the later VC3165 I think, because the mode for channel B is mode 1, and the low frequency mode for channel A is 2 and 3. Confusion. Second remark I want to make is for the input print. Many stories around about bad soldering of the (ground) screening, and I too had one with this problem, but after repairing that, it also had an erratic behaviour on the high frequency channel B. I have replaced the input chip for that, the MB506, a tiny 8 pin chip. And about that chip is another remark I want to make: on the print there are three grounded pads under pin 5, 6, and 7. Pin 6 is one that is used as a switch (together with pin 3 I think) with which a developer can choose the dividing done by the chip (64x or 128x or 256x). When you look close at the 2 pages datasheet of the MB506 (Fujitsu), you are able to note that TWO times it is said that if a divider choice demands that a pin is low (see truth table for the divider), that that pin should be kept floating, and NOT put to ground. So pin 6 then should be kept floating, and not soldered to its pad. Another difference between the VC2000 and VC3165 is that on channel B (50MHz - 2.4GHz) they let out the two diodes to protect against high input Voltages. I guess that is done for more sensitivity, but that means that the input chip can be damaged above about 5V. I will try if using a few diodes (1n4148) in series (for both diode pads, already on the print) will do no harm to the signal. A 1N4148 has only 4 pF capacitance, so a few in series will be below 1pF, and should be no problem.... I hope. Sorry for the long comment 😏
Nice little counter here, but the all-plastic construction and the lack of ground is not very reassuring - not even the back panel is grounded. Look at the mains wiring... "Dodgy" is the word of choice here. Hey, lovely T-shirt! At first I thought of Dave Jones' "I only give NEGATIVE feedback" but this one is a nice nerdy take on Hamlet. I love it.
I had this one. Terrible user interface, hangs up on "function" shift, feels plastic cheap and very light. Display erratic numbers without any input signal. Teared it down for parts, as I could not sell this. Replaced now by a Thurlby Thandar Instruments 3GHz counter. Much better instrument for 3x the price of this one.
Tony, or anyone else know what is the actual pF value of the oscillator 5mm or 6mm trimmer capacitor? I want to replace mine, asap. My counter was off by about 20Hz at 10.000.000mhz and with adjusting to my OXCO 10MHz reference oscillator, the trimmer is so cheap and ridiculously sensitive to rotation jerkiness that I can not adjust it closer than + or - 4 Hz. I simply can not get it to sit + or - 1Hz of 10.000 Mhz. The rotator just bumps into the same spot no matter how careful I am. However, with the TCXO section wrapped in a little foam oven insulator block, the counter is pretty stable after 20-30mins! But with that junky trimmer cap, I can't adjust it to the read the actual 10Mhz reference freq.
Hi Bruce, i sold mine, have no schematic.. but i would expect 10pF or 20pF trimmer.. you can start with 10pF trimmer, if that not work then maybe at 10pf fixed in parallel then it will adjust better....
@@TonyAlbus Very good Tony. I also think it must be in that 10pF-20pf range. I do have some decent ceramic trimmers to experiment with. I’ve replaced numerous VCO trimmers in a few ICOM 735, 745 and 751 radios, as you might be doing in your recently purchased IC-751). LOL Great radios by the way. Your suggestion of swamping a new trimmer with a different parallel cap is a great idea! That will be my next step. I’m not quite ready to give up on this very inexpensive counter… but ultimately, it is an amateur device. But even at + or - few Hertz, I think it is probably adequate for a lot of non commercial ham radio home shop use. Cheers OM es 73
I got a nice 3165 off Ebay and when I opened it up for inspection it was indeed the same sloppy work on the shielding. Biggest problem I had was it seemed someone hammered the gate time knob on the Pot shaft. Took over and hour and a half to gradually pry it off without damage. Still put a lot of strain on the shaft but it survived the ordeal. I removed the upper shield can and ended up bending the grounding tabs on the front side outwards so it layed flush on the front. Trying to push grounding tabs from top and bottom through the same hole was rediculous. The rear ones I was able to ground together easier and verified with a DVM. Seems the production people don't like fighting with the design and just stick it together as best they can. Otherwise internally it looks pretty good.
Thanks for your production on this freq. counter!
Thank you for your report, so over all these years now the problem is the same..still ..LOL so its their MO then.
It's pretty obvious that this was designed by guys who are primarily digital engineers - not RF ones! I bought one new for the equivalent of USD45 quite a few years ago. It is adequately accurate and sensitive for most purposes, but that stupid user interface and the mains switch on the back is VERY annoying. 😒
100% agree with you!..
Thanks for the video. I would have also been interested to see a brief review of the way the circuit operates... a schematic, or even a hand drawing of the main operational functions, and what component part numbers they are using. But, a good video, all the same.
Thanks, usually no in-depth teardowns on my channel, mostly practical hands-on
When I was shopping for a frequency counter, I was considering that one. I am very glad that I did not buy this one and settled on a ProTek B1000, which serves me well.
yes not the best for sure
CONGRATULATIONS on 5K subscribers Tony :-)
Thank you Ian, the wife And i, realy apriciate the coffee also... thanks!!
@@TonyAlbus No problem Tony. My wife and me really enjoy taking time out with in a nice coffee bar and I thought it would be nice to buy you and your wife a coffee this time. 5.01K and growing. You are on a roll now.
Hi there Tony. Great review. Thanks for sharing
Hallo Andrew! thank you!..
ps. just back from CA .. beautyful and large country
@@TonyAlbus You were in Canada and didn't even call me 😢 LOL Glad you had a safe trip buddy
@@andrewgeorgelang Thanks Andrew
Could you tell me what kind of cable are you using? That's not Rg-58 or is it?
Hi Darren, its called RG316 and i have left links to the items in the video description :)
За свои деньги это более, чем достойный любительский прибор.
Yes i agree, there is better around, but for the price you get a lot...
I seems quite common for these to display random counts with no signal applied. Once a good strong signal is applied the display always stabilizes and registers correct frequency.
The reset makes the display zero but once I release I get random display without an input.
Is this all due to poor shielding or is this something unique to the design circuitry?
Where can I find a schematic?
Hi E, i do not have the schematics.
Where did you get your magnifing bench lamp?
Hi, i got mine from Conrad in Germany or NL.. this is something simular: DeskLampMagnifier go.tonyalbus.com/DeskLampMagnifier i use 8x
Some remarks about the VC3165: the schematic that goes around on some places (the yellow one) is from the victor VC2000, NOT the VC3165. One difference that is obvious is that channel A and B are interchanged. On the VC2000 channel A is the high frequency (50 mHz - 2.4 GHz), and the low is channel B (.01Hz - 50 MHz). On the VC3165 that is the other way around. You can recognise that partly in the interface of the later VC3165 I think, because the mode for channel B is mode 1, and the low frequency mode for channel A is 2 and 3. Confusion.
Second remark I want to make is for the input print. Many stories around about bad soldering of the (ground) screening, and I too had one with this problem, but after repairing that, it also had an erratic behaviour on the high frequency channel B. I have replaced the input chip for that, the MB506, a tiny 8 pin chip. And about that chip is another remark I want to make: on the print there are three grounded pads under pin 5, 6, and 7. Pin 6 is one that is used as a switch (together with pin 3 I think) with which a developer can choose the dividing done by the chip (64x or 128x or 256x). When you look close at the 2 pages datasheet of the MB506 (Fujitsu), you are able to note that TWO times it is said that if a divider choice demands that a pin is low (see truth table for the divider), that that pin should be kept floating, and NOT put to ground. So pin 6 then should be kept floating, and not soldered to its pad.
Another difference between the VC2000 and VC3165 is that on channel B (50MHz - 2.4GHz) they let out the two diodes to protect against high input Voltages. I guess that is done for more sensitivity, but that means that the input chip can be damaged above about 5V. I will try if using a few diodes (1n4148) in series (for both diode pads, already on the print) will do no harm to the signal. A 1N4148 has only 4 pF capacitance, so a few in series will be below 1pF, and should be no problem.... I hope.
Sorry for the long comment 😏
Thanks! great reseurce! thanks for sharing this.
@@TonyAlbus Thanks too, I just had some problems getting my head around this, and I wanted to share that at least somewhere ☺
Where can the data sheet be found for the board?
Hi Nick, i have only found the manual, that i scanned
you can use foil tape to close off the open sides of the shielding box.
Thanks, yes good one!
i have one,works well.but i hate the units with power sw on back,,i have anther f c that has a 13mhz out on back
yes powerswith on the back is allways WRONG
Nice little counter here, but the all-plastic construction and the lack of ground is not very reassuring - not even the back panel is grounded. Look at the mains wiring... "Dodgy" is the word of choice here.
Hey, lovely T-shirt! At first I thought of Dave Jones' "I only give NEGATIVE feedback" but this one is a nice nerdy take on Hamlet. I love it.
yes to much plastic… live the t-shirt, more positive too
you should make an overview with HAM radio F licence NL
thanks
I had this one. Terrible user interface, hangs up on "function" shift, feels plastic cheap and very light. Display erratic numbers without any input signal. Teared it down for parts, as I could not sell this. Replaced now by a Thurlby Thandar Instruments 3GHz counter. Much better instrument for 3x the price of this one.
Agree an all, and that TF930 i have too and it is great, even without external ref, is super stable.
👍 :)
thank you!
Better to save your money and buy a used Racal Dana or Phillips/Fluke model.
yes or TTi , all if you can afford.
Tony, or anyone else know what is the actual pF value of the oscillator 5mm or 6mm trimmer capacitor?
I want to replace mine, asap. My counter was off by about 20Hz at 10.000.000mhz and with adjusting to my OXCO 10MHz reference oscillator, the trimmer is so cheap and ridiculously sensitive to rotation jerkiness that I can not adjust it closer than + or - 4 Hz. I simply can not get it to sit + or - 1Hz of 10.000 Mhz. The rotator just bumps into the same spot no matter how careful I am.
However, with the TCXO section wrapped in a little foam oven insulator block, the counter is pretty stable after 20-30mins!
But with that junky trimmer cap, I can't adjust it to the read the actual 10Mhz reference freq.
Hi Bruce, i sold mine, have no schematic.. but i would expect 10pF or 20pF trimmer.. you can start with 10pF trimmer, if that not work then maybe at 10pf fixed in parallel then it will adjust better....
@@TonyAlbus Very good Tony. I also think it must be in that 10pF-20pf range.
I do have some decent ceramic trimmers to experiment with. I’ve replaced numerous VCO trimmers in a few ICOM 735, 745 and 751 radios, as you might be doing in your recently purchased IC-751). LOL
Great radios by the way.
Your suggestion of swamping a new trimmer with a different parallel cap is a great idea!
That will be my next step.
I’m not quite ready to give up on this very inexpensive counter… but ultimately, it is an amateur device.
But even at + or - few Hertz, I think it is probably adequate for a lot of non commercial ham radio home shop use.
Cheers OM es 73
@@brucecollins7216 Yes the 751 is great!!.. have fun with the project!.. once you have that done..it is a perfect hobby counter... not bad.