I don't have a set of the proper size reamers for bushings. I don't do enough clock repairs to warrant buying a set in my case. As such I use cutting broaches to get the hole to the proper size. One of the things I do for getting the size of the hole right for the bushing is to carefully slide my caliper after setting it to 0.03mm under the bushing size and then locking it down with the tension screw up the taper on the broach cutter until the caliper touches on the cutting edge and place a sharpie mark around the cutter on the thicker side of the broach. I place the sharpie mark and check it under the microscope. One thing I've noticed with the set of cutting broaches that I have is that the dimension across the cutting blades is slightly different for one pair of the opposing blades than the other so when measuring I will turn the cutting broach 90 degrees. Which ever pair of cutting edges has the larger dimension is the one I use for the measurement. I find this more comforting, faster, and less stressful because I can work my way up to the mark while focusing on keeping the cutter perpendicular to the plate. Everything else I do the same as you demonstrated. If the bushing is close enough to the edge of the plate to allow me to reach the bushing with my staking tool, I use that to drive in the bushing instead of free handing with a flat face punch. I work on watches far more than clocks so I have watchmaker's tools.
You’ve probably found out by now but, cut the unworn side of the hole to match the wear on the worn side this pulls the off center to the center then you can drill a full 360 to do the bushing
I do not use smoothing broaches on new bushings but I do have them for older clocks where somethimes rebushing is not really needed just a little cleanup of the hole.
Thank you. I'm very interested and hope to be doing this to my cuckoo clocks before too long. I'm now in the process of acquiring all the necessary tools.
thank you very much for showing me how to do it by hand, i dont have a lot of money and i wanted to know a way if you could do it by cutting broaches, now that i seee its possible, i am gonna give it a try, altrough if you cut to far you are basicly a lost movement and cant be fixed i ghuess???
Good luck if you go to try it out. I do recommend you start trying in out on something cheap like a mechanical alarm clock from the thrift store. If you do end up going too far, that is not the end of it. You can do things like making the hole even larger and put a bushing into a bushing. The real solution there is to make a bushing yourself from a bushing rod. If it is just a bit to large you can use a punch to punch the material inwards a bit to make the hole smaller until the bushing stays in place. You can solder the bush into place although its a bit frowned upon it works great.
Thank you for the interesting material! Did you change the opposite bushings in the second plate also? I heard it is essential to provide a correct alignment for a pivot.
Not there is no need for that unless that sides is also worn out. Because the whole idea of rebushing is that you try to keep the same centre and even if you mess up there is no way you are going to mess up exactly the same on the other side so that doesn't help.
I wish you had shown us how to ream out that last bushingl After pounding it that hard, I don't think you'd get any pivot into it. It looked completely peened over!
I don't have a set of the proper size reamers for bushings. I don't do enough clock repairs to warrant buying a set in my case. As such I use cutting broaches to get the hole to the proper size.
One of the things I do for getting the size of the hole right for the bushing is to carefully slide my caliper after setting it to 0.03mm under the bushing size and then locking it down with the tension screw up the taper on the broach cutter until the caliper touches on the cutting edge and place a sharpie mark around the cutter on the thicker side of the broach. I place the sharpie mark and check it under the microscope.
One thing I've noticed with the set of cutting broaches that I have is that the dimension across the cutting blades is slightly different for one pair of the opposing blades than the other so when measuring I will turn the cutting broach 90 degrees. Which ever pair of cutting edges has the larger dimension is the one I use for the measurement.
I find this more comforting, faster, and less stressful because I can work my way up to the mark while focusing on keeping the cutter perpendicular to the plate.
Everything else I do the same as you demonstrated. If the bushing is close enough to the edge of the plate to allow me to reach the bushing with my staking tool, I use that to drive in the bushing instead of free handing with a flat face punch. I work on watches far more than clocks so I have watchmaker's tools.
With the brass plate worn out of shape, say to one side, how do you find true center, before starting to rebush hole ?
You’ve probably found out by now but, cut the unworn side of the hole to match the wear on the worn side this pulls the off center to the center then you can drill a full 360 to do the bushing
0:22:30 Thanks for this video. Do you use a smoothing broach inside the new bushing to address any imperfections left by the cutting broach?
I do not use smoothing broaches on new bushings but I do have them for older clocks where somethimes rebushing is not really needed just a little cleanup of the hole.
Thank you. I'm very interested and hope to be doing this to my cuckoo clocks before too long. I'm now in the process of acquiring all the necessary tools.
Be careful with Cuckoo clocks they can be temperamental.
thank you very much for showing me how to do it by hand, i dont have a lot of money and i wanted to know a way if you could do it by cutting broaches, now that i seee its possible, i am gonna give it a try, altrough if you cut to far you are basicly a lost movement and cant be fixed i ghuess???
Good luck if you go to try it out. I do recommend you start trying in out on something cheap like a mechanical alarm clock from the thrift store. If you do end up going too far, that is not the end of it. You can do things like making the hole even larger and put a bushing into a bushing. The real solution there is to make a bushing yourself from a bushing rod. If it is just a bit to large you can use a punch to punch the material inwards a bit to make the hole smaller until the bushing stays in place. You can solder the bush into place although its a bit frowned upon it works great.
You chose a K14 bush with a C diameter of 2.70mm but the reamer you chose was 2.86mm which is wider than the bush? Am I missing something, thanks?
It is a brushing of 2.7mm and the reamer is 2,68mm. 0,02mm smaller to make a nice fit.
Great video, I enjoyed it very much. Thanks
Thank you for the interesting material! Did you change the opposite bushings in the second plate also? I heard it is essential to provide a correct alignment for a pivot.
Not there is no need for that unless that sides is also worn out. Because the whole idea of rebushing is that you try to keep the same centre and even if you mess up there is no way you are going to mess up exactly the same on the other side so that doesn't help.
@@Mr-Wonderfull Thanks for the explanation!
I wish you had shown us how to ream out that last bushingl After pounding it that hard, I don't think you'd get any pivot into it. It looked completely peened over!
To be honest I can't remember now.
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Schow US THIS !!!!! Cklok AT work wer is IT ? ? ? !