Thank you so much for this. I used to play the AutoHarp - in the late 70s, early 80s. I have not had one in years, and I really miss it. One of my reasons for not getting a new one was because I was never able to tune my old ones and had to have someone do it. This will make it easier, and my new Oscar Schmidt arrives tomorrow. I can't wait to get back to playing and thank you for your helpful videos.
The problem is that a tuner does not know the actual notes, it can only tune if you know what note you want. My D/G autoharp does not have any notes written on it as it is a d'aigle autoharp. My chromatic tuner says two notes together are both C# but it sounds awful when a chord is played. Further along it says two notes are A but it seems wrong. No one on the internet seems to be able to give the actual notes to be tuned.
PS Is there a link anywhere on the internet where I can find the actual notes I need to tune to? I don't know why mine doesn't have the notes printed on as it would life so much easier and less frustrating. As it is, my autoharp is unplayable and it would be impossible to change the strings as tuning would be pure guesswork.
I'm hoping the you figured out to get ahold of D'aigle and got them to send you a map, and then used a fine point Pigma to mark them. @@apilgrimsprogress7688
It depends upon the model, but most Oscar Schmidt and Chromaharp brand autoharps have the note for each string printed on the autoharp top, right next to the appropriate tuning pin. Custom autoharps rarely have the string notes printed on them, but will usually come with a printed tuning guide.
Hi! I bought a 21 chord autoharp. I have not tuned it yet. My question is major chords are obvious on the tuner. But how do you tune to minor or 7th, duh. Looking forward to signing up to your Patreon. Will the tuner show up as minor or 7th? Or do I have to go to flats and sharps? Sorry if it's a stupid question. Nancy
A tuner reads individual NOTES, not chords. (Chords are a combination of 3 or 4 notes played together.) When you pluck a single string, the tuner will tell you the note that it “hears” - C, C#, D, D#, E, F, F#, G, G#, A, A#, or B. Those are the 12 notes the tuner can hear. Right next to the tuning pin on the autoharp is a label that tells you what note that string should be tuned to. So if the label says “C”, and you pluck it and your tuner says A#, that means the string is flat and needs to be tuned up 1 1/2 steps to C. You may want to take it to a music store or have a friend who plays a stringed instrument tune it for you the first time so you can watch. It isn’t hard to do, it just takes time and patience. It gets easier the more you do it - and you WILL need to learn to tune it yourself. Autoharps aren’t like pianos that need tuning once a year. You’ll have to keep it tuned regularly (weekly) in order for it to sound right.
I tune my autoharps to Equal Temperament because my playing style focuses more on single-note melody rather than chording. I’ve found that most of the typical clip-on style tuners are more than adequate for this type of day-to-day tuning if they’re mounted securely. I also have a Korg TM series with an input cable for really tight, precision tuning. If you want a tuner that will let you program in specific tunings such as ‘Just Intonation’, you’ll want to look into one of the Peterson Strobe tuners.
Jo Ann, I am having trouble with my tuner not always picking up on the sharp strings. In fact, I broke my A# because when I went a little past A the sharp never registered. Do you think I just need a better tuner?
Hi, William. Check the settings on your tuner. Some tuners have settings for specific instruments, like guitar - in which case the tuner will only listen for and display the notes E, A, D, G, B and E. Check the documentation that came with your tuner, or look up the user manual online. Your tuner should be set to CHROMATIC when tuning an autoharp so it will pick up all 12 notes of the scale, including all the sharps.
Thanks for responding. The o e I ha w does Chromatic, Guitar and violin. It,'s set to C for chromatic. I think I am going to try a different tuner. Love your videos.
Thanks for the reply, Jo Ann. That's good information to know. I am hoping to be able to play melodically on the harp, but my husband will probably use it more as a chording instrument, so we'll tune it for the melodies and hope that staying in just a few keys will keep the temperament from bugging me too much!
Thank you so much for posting this, Ive been waiting patiently for this one lol,,even though I tune mine, its nice to get pointers from the pro. :) Thanks again Sylvia in Sask. Can
My father, an opera singer had a large Steinway in his studio and the piano tuner used to come every month back in the 60s. He would just start with an a 440 or 442 hz, The other strings he would tune using fifths and octaves just listening to the beats in each interval.
@@autoharpist I don’t know about other people but I’ve been a session musician since 1970, back then we didn’t have tuning machines so we tuned our guitars and basses just by listening to the beats of the fifths. Similar to the way violinists do it as well. Have a nice weekend!
The strings on this particular autoharp are tuned to a specific tuning schedule that I requested from the luthier. And yes there is a chart or guide that shows what note each string is supposed to be. However, once the autoharp is tuned a few times the strings only drift by a few cents from week to week, so you can tell just by looking at the tuner whether a string is sharp or flat. If the autoharp is new or has been left for weeks without tuning, then you absolutely need to refer to the chart to make sure you don’t over-tune the strings and possibly break one or damage the instrument. Most chromatic manufactured autoharps (Oscar Schmidt, Chromaharp, etc.) have the tuning notes for each string printed on the top of the autoharp next to the tuning pins.
Thank you so much! I'm a banjo player, but I was at a jam today and I had never seen an autoharp! (Though I did know about Mother Maybelle Carter). I fell in love! @@autoharpist
The tuner is set on ‘Chromatic’. That’s the only setting you can use with an autoharp because you need the tuner to pick up all 12 notes in the western scale.
Hello, I have a autoharp by Oscar Schmidt that I purchased in the mid 1970s. I pulled it out again and want to tune it. I had ordered a SNARK SN-5X turner that clipped on to the top of the harp, much as the one you showed in your utube video. Unfortunately, my harp is too wide. - it is 1 1/2” thick and the tuner does not open that wide. So, I’m looking for one that either has a wider span or a good one that perhaps lays on the strings as I tune it. Looking for any help you might be able to offer. Thank you
Jeanne Vencill I didn’t have the tuner clipped to the side of the autoharp - it’s too wide for any tuner. I clip it to the tuning pins, usually two or three of them. It takes a bit of fiddling to find a group of pins that the clip will fit, but that’s where you need to clip it. You can also put your tuning wrench on one of the pins and clip the tuner to the wrench handle.
I'm restringing my OS model B 15chord that i re-chorded maybe 30 years ago. I'm only doing 1 string at a time and my work is such that I can only do about 6 strings a day at this pace.. I was wondering about fine tuners. I feel with the cumbersome tuning wrench its a "horseshoes & hand-grenades" method of tuning. Can fine-tuners be retrofitted to an OS model B or should i just buy a new 21 chord OS with finetuners from the factory. I'm an exceedingly cheap musician and I rarely pay over $100 for any instrument. I also have 2 model A's and i'm trying to decipher the 4 digit code stamped into the back. They both look so old. I would like to make one of the playable again
OS B-model autoharps can be retrofitted with fine tuners. They certainly make life easier. Installing them can be a bit tricky, depending on the depth and width of the channel where the bottom bridge rests - which sometimes needs to be modified so the fine tuners can work properly. Installation is best done when new strings are put on. But before you invest in fine tuners, what kind of tuning wrench are you using right now? If it’s the wrench that came with the autoharp, you need to throw it out. It’s made of metal that is softer than the tuning pins and after a few months’ use it becomes essentially worthless. Get a decent wrench like this one: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1931415063%3Fiid%3D110452732102 It will make tuning MUCH easier.
@@autoharpist yes. consider that done. my tuning wrench is horrible. Its not even at a 90 degree angle. i figured that would solve much of my problem. I notice you use a thumb pick. My daughters hands are freakishly tiny. Do they make thumb picks for children?
@@chazworm3 The Kelly family of thumb picks tend to run pretty small, and they work very well. If it's still too big for her thumb, you can always wrap some adhesive (bandage) tape around it. I've also seen where folks have dipped the wrap portion of the thumb pick in Plasti-dip, that stuff they make for coating the handles of screwdrivers and such. It might take more than one coat of that stuff to get it small enough, but it does work. I use a Kelly Speed Pick which has a very narrow plectrum. They also make one called the "Slick Pick" which has a wider, more normal-looking plectrum. The Kelly picks come in three colors: Orange (soft), Yellow (medium), and White (hard).
Piano tuners use either strobe tuners or - prior to the advent of electronic strobe tuners - tuning forks. The latter requiring years of experience in developing relative pitch and interval pitch recognition by ear. Unless is blessed with perfect pitch or accurate relative pitch ability, tuning ANY multi-stringed instrument by ear is beyond the ability of most people.
I appreciate your videos. I bought a 15-chord electric Chromaharp made in the 1960's, and cannot locate a rectangular-peg tuning wrench: all the vendors so far only sell the square-peg tuning wrench for non-electric Chromaharps. The electric Chromaharp's tuning pegs are underneath the treble side of the pin end, coming out at a right-angle. Thanks for any pointers.
Hi, John. I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I can point you to some folks who might be able to help. There's a group on Facebook that I moderate -- the Autoharp group -- that has several hundred members and there are a number of luthiers and autoharp repair experts among them. If you're on Facebook, search "autoharp" and you'll find the group. It's a closed group, so you have to request membership (keeps the spammers out), but if anyone knows where to find a tuner to fit your instrument, someone in the group will either know or find out. They might be able to come up with a work-around also. Good luck!
Jo Ann, I've learned a lot from watching your videos. I just purchased my first Oscar Schmidt Autoharp it has fine tuners and my question is, how do you tune the fine tuners?
Good question. When you first get your autoharp, the fine tuners should all be at the same height/level. Look across the row at eye level and make sure they are all pretty close to the same. If not, take the allen wrench that came with it and adjust them until they're reasonably even. (Don't worry about tuning just yet.) Once the fine tuners are level, do your first several tunings (6 or so) using only the regular tuning pins at the top of the 'harp. Tune once a day for about a week. By then, the new strings will have settled in and you'll be able to use just your fine tuners for most of your day to day tuning needs. You'll find this is necessary any time you get new strings. If the strings ever go more than a half step flat or sharp, using the big pins to get it back close to pitch, and then use the fine tuners.
I still can't tune mine after watching your video. My autoharp does not say which note to tune each string to - what should the lowest string be tuned to?
If the autoharp is new or has been left to drift out of tune for a long time, it may take about of week of regular tuning to get the strings settled in. After that, a weekly touch-up is all that's generally needed. Like any instrument, weather and humidity will affect the tuning. Autoharps will go flat in the winter because of the colder, drier climate, and then go sharp in the spring and summer when things warm up and get more humid. But tuning is just part of the job. Nobody likes doing it, but you get used to it after a while and it's not so bad. Kind of like changing a diaper. ;)
My husband picked up an old autoharp. I bought the same type of chromatic tuner,and the clip doesn’t open wide enough to clip onto the instrument at the top of the pegs. Also, I bought two tuning wrenches and the pegs are too small. Do you have any idea where I can get an old timer tuning wrench?
The clip-on tuners were designed to fit on the headstock of guitars, so getting them to fit on the autoharp tuning pins can be a challenge. One of the best spots is at the top of the autoharp where the tuning pins change from two rows of pins down to one row. I can generally find two pins up there that are close enough together to get a good grip for the tuner clip. The tuning wrench that comes as standard equipment with factory autoharps is made of softer metal than the pins themselves, and over time the wrench ends up being pretty much useless. Here is a link to Amazon for a T-handled tuning wrench with a star-shaped tip. This will fit your pins -- just be careful to get a good, solid fit with the wrench before attempting to tune. The star-tip can scar the pins if not fitted carefully, but if used properly it's one of the best tuning wrenches for autoharps. Here's the link: amzn.to/2n7JOyL
This means that *some* of the chord bars have felts that are cut incorrectly. Those bars will need to have the felt removed and replaced with new felt, which can then be cut to properly voice the chord(s). You have two options: Send the autoharp to someone who can do the job, or do it yourself. I put up a video a couple of weeks ago that shows how to replace and cut felt, along with links to templates and instructions. It’s not hard to do. Ask the person who did the tuning to identify which chord bars need to be re-felted . It won’t be all of them, so don’t worry. Watch the video, which you can find here: ua-cam.com/video/pFH_SjpxGf0/v-deo.html The video is about moving the chord bars and re-felting a couple of them to make it easier to play - which would be a good thing to do in addition to refelting the faulty ones. The template contains the cutting patterns for all of the chords, so it should give you everything you need.
Hi Joann. Thank you for these You Tubes!. I was recently gifted a 1975 Oscar Schmidt Autoharp and must admit I'm overwhelmed. First, I received no manual and cannot find one on the internet. Mine has buttons, not bars, and has no letters for what note each string is. It is so out of tune, I don't know where to start. Is there a basis layout of the strings? i.e. shortest string is an A, etc.? Thanks very much.
We just purchased a Chromaharp off Ebay (made in Korea) and need to replace the strings. We think it needs type A strings from what we were able to discern from the web. Where do we purchase autoharp strings? We loved your lesson on replacing strings. Thanks so much for your help. We're in Mississippi have found one autoharp player but she has had a triple bypass and not completely well.
I bought a second hand autoharp that is so out of town when I play a C note the tuner says it is a B. It's like this across the board. Any special advice about an instrument so out of tune?
Thanx JoAnn for posting this! I saw it about a month ago & I needed to have my Autoharp tuned & I went to the music store in Abingdon, Virginia & I bought a tuner & now I tune my Guitar & Autoharp! Come on by & check out my channel sometime & maybe I can show you some of the songs I play on the Autoharp & Guitar!
Standard tuning for an autoharp is CHROMATIC, which means it has all 12 notes in the western scale. This allows you to play in several different keys on the autoharp, including the key of C. Chromatic tuning means that it's similar to a piano. You have all the notes -- all the white keys and all the black keys: C, C#, D, D# (Eb), E, F, F#, G, G# (Ab), A and A# (Bb). Standard tuning means an equal-tempered scale centered on A=220hz.
I just bought a new Oscar Schmidt 21 chord autoharp with of course new strings. After two days of tuning it every several hours the strings will not hold the correct note. You have suggested tuning the harp every day until the strings settle in. Are there no strings on the market that can hold their note longer without going flat/?
Jerry Scott The strings aren't the problem, it's just the nature of the beast. Sometimes it takes more than a couple of days for it to stay consistently in. But what concerns me is that the strings should have been only marginally flat when you got it. Try this: Tune all of the C's first. Then all of the C#'s. Then all of the D's. Then all of the D#'s, etc. That way you'll be tuning the strings in a random order, and not straight across from bottom to top. Or top to bottom. If all of the strings are drifting flat at the same rate, it just means it will take more time to settle in. But if you have individual strings that keep going way off, then it's probably a loose tuning pin.
HI. A friend just gave me an autoharp that she aquired from a school. Just with a quick strum, i can tell it is wayyyyyyyyyyy out of tune. I dont know where to start, and is there a fear of breaking anything if i tune it myself?
The trick to tuning up a *very* out-of-tune autoharp is to do it in small increments over a period of several days. The proper pitch for each of the strings should be printed on the face of the autoharp, right next to each tuning pin. Using an electronic tuner, determine how flat each string is, and then gently tune the string up toward the correct pitch -- but change it NO MORE THAN ONE WHOLE STEP. For instance if you have a string that's supposed to be a C, and it's reading A, don't go all the way back up to C or it will break. Bring it up to B first. Do this for all of the strings, and then let it set for a day or two. It will go flat again over those two days, but not as much. The next time, bring the pitch back up to where you had it before, and then go beyond that a half step. Let it set for a day or two again. Then repeat, until you have the 'harp tuned properly. Once you have all the strings back up to pitch, tune it *daily* for about a week. Also play it! Playing the strings will help them settle in to the new tuning. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't hold right away. Just keep at it until it stabilizes. It takes time, but it can be done.
I find the Intelli tuner doesn't pick up the lower 3-4 string well. I have to push it really hard against the case for it to pickup, and even then i am often reduced to tuning the lower string to the equivalent strings on next higher octave (i.e. F, G, C). Any suggestions?
This issue is common and it doesn't seem to be specific to the tuner. I've used a number of tuners, everything from clip-ons to phone apps to strobes, and the lower strings are always difficult to tune. When you get to the bottom strings with the lowest tones (and resulting broad wavelengths), the natural under- and/or over-tones of those wound strings are more apt to be caught by the tuner. That's why the needle jumps around so much. A few things to try: 1) Clip the tuner as close to the specific string you are tuning as possible. 2) Pluck the string at its midpoint, and with a medium-to-light touch. 3) Repeat, repeat, repeat. 4) When frustration sets in, do what you've already been doing: Use your ear. Bottom line, don't waste too much time getting the tuning absolutely perfect. Tune it before you go to a jam and when your ear tells you it's time to tune, but don't go overboard. Hope this helps!
Hi again, Jo Ann, I am wondering what you think about tempering tuning on a chromatic harp. I have found some information elsewhere, but since your chromatic harp sounds pretty good, I wonder if you did any tempering in the tuning, or just go straight off the digital tuner. I really enjoy your videos and hope to be able to pick a tune soon!
Hi, Amy. I go straight off the digital tuner. I tried a number of tempered tunings early on in my playing; but I found that those alternate tunings worked best when strumming chords and didn't work well when picking single melody notes. Now that I've settled into a "mostly melody" playing style, I tune all my 'harps straight up on the tuner with no variation.
Thanks a bunch for the information, Jo Ann! Tomorrow is Christmas and we get to officially "open" our autoharp present to ourselves from Santa! Happy Holidays!
hi i have just purchased a antique auto harp which has a three cord bar on it, it is called a auto camping harp it think i want to know where i can go to search how to play it, plus how to tune it as it is way out of tune at present. eg from the longest side to the shortest side. thank
With only three chord bars and your description of "antique", I'm going to guess that what you have is a C.F. Zimmerman model #1. These were one of the very first autoharps in production, and were made around 1885 (130 years ago). I don't know for sure if this is what you actually have -- but if so I would not suggest trying to make it playable again. These little autoharps weren't made with the best of materials and it's very rare to find one that doesn't have cracks or splits in the wood and joints that are still intact. Even if the body appears to be in good shape, it's very doubtful you could put new strings on it (which would have to be custom-made), tune it up to pitch and have the body survive without collapsing. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news! But if you have something other than a CF Zimmerman, your best bet would be to contact one of the autoharp makers/repair techs and get their input. Just Google "autoharp repair" and you should find a number of contacts.
I just got an autoharp and got a book on how to play it. The book said the most important thing was to learn to tune it. So I was doing just fine and then I tried to tune the middle B and broke a string. I didn't even turn it much at all. The electronic tuner said it was flat and I just turned it a bit to get the indicator in the middle and it broke.
You didn't do anything wrong. There are several reasons why a string might break, but the most likely cause is the string itself. It could have a weak spot where it touches the autoharp or where it bends to go around the pin. If the strings are old, the risk of breakage goes up a lot, particularly if there is any rust visible anywhere on the strings or hardware. You can order individual replacement strings, but my best advice would be to see if your autoharp needs more TLC than just a replacement string. Odds are extremely good that it needs to be optimized in order to play the way it should. Contact one of the autoharp luthiers who can advise you. Just Google 'autoharp luthiers' and you'll find several.
Google "Autoharp Tuning Wrench" and look for the T-handled model. They cost more than the standard wrench but are better quality and easier to use, in my opinion.
Thank you so much for this. I used to play the AutoHarp - in the late 70s, early 80s. I have not had one in years, and I really miss it. One of my reasons for not getting a new one was because I was never able to tune my old ones and had to have someone do it. This will make it easier, and my new Oscar Schmidt arrives tomorrow. I can't wait to get back to playing and thank you for your helpful videos.
The problem is that a tuner does not know the actual notes, it can only tune if you know what note you want. My D/G autoharp does not have any notes written on it as it is a d'aigle autoharp. My chromatic tuner says two notes together are both C# but it sounds awful when a chord is played. Further along it says two notes are A but it seems wrong. No one on the internet seems to be able to give the actual notes to be tuned.
PS Is there a link anywhere on the internet where I can find the actual notes I need to tune to? I don't know why mine doesn't have the notes printed on as it would life so much easier and less frustrating. As it is, my autoharp is unplayable and it would be impossible to change the strings as tuning would be pure guesswork.
If you'll send me a picture of your autoharp (email to autoharpist@gmail.com ) I can supply you with the tuning schedule. :)
I'm hoping the you figured out to get ahold of D'aigle and got them to send you a map, and then used a fine point Pigma to mark them.
@@apilgrimsprogress7688
Very helpful.
Thank you JoAnn 😊
It depends upon the model, but most Oscar Schmidt and Chromaharp brand autoharps have the note for each string printed on the autoharp top, right next to the appropriate tuning pin. Custom autoharps rarely have the string notes printed on them, but will usually come with a printed tuning guide.
Hi! I bought a 21 chord autoharp. I have not tuned it yet. My question is major chords are obvious on the tuner. But how do you tune to minor or 7th, duh. Looking forward to signing up to your Patreon. Will the tuner show up as minor or 7th? Or do I have to go to flats and sharps? Sorry if it's a stupid question. Nancy
A tuner reads individual NOTES, not chords. (Chords are a combination of 3 or 4 notes played together.) When you pluck a single string, the tuner will tell you the note that it “hears” - C, C#, D, D#, E, F, F#, G, G#, A, A#, or B. Those are the 12 notes the tuner can hear. Right next to the tuning pin on the autoharp is a label that tells you what note that string should be tuned to. So if the label says “C”, and you pluck it and your tuner says A#, that means the string is flat and needs to be tuned up 1 1/2 steps to C. You may want to take it to a music store or have a friend who plays a stringed instrument tune it for you the first time so you can watch. It isn’t hard to do, it just takes time and patience. It gets easier the more you do it - and you WILL need to learn to tune it yourself. Autoharps aren’t like pianos that need tuning once a year. You’ll have to keep it tuned regularly (weekly) in order for it to sound right.
@@autoharpist silly me. I should have realized that. Thanks for the clarification. Happy new year.
What tuner do you use for the more elaborate tuning?
I tune my autoharps to Equal Temperament because my playing style focuses more on single-note melody rather than chording. I’ve found that most of the typical clip-on style tuners are more than adequate for this type of day-to-day tuning if they’re mounted securely. I also have a Korg TM series with an input cable for really tight, precision tuning. If you want a tuner that will let you program in specific tunings such as ‘Just Intonation’, you’ll want to look into one of the Peterson Strobe tuners.
@@autoharpist thank you @joannsmith!
Jo Ann, I am having trouble with my tuner not always picking up on the sharp strings. In fact, I broke my A# because when I went a little past A the sharp never registered. Do you think I just need a better tuner?
Hi, William. Check the settings on your tuner. Some tuners have settings for specific instruments, like guitar - in which case the tuner will only listen for and display the notes E, A, D, G, B and E. Check the documentation that came with your tuner, or look up the user manual online. Your tuner should be set to CHROMATIC when tuning an autoharp so it will pick up all 12 notes of the scale, including all the sharps.
Thanks for responding. The o e I ha w does Chromatic, Guitar and violin. It,'s set to C for chromatic. I think I am going to try a different tuner. Love your videos.
Thanks for the reply, Jo Ann. That's good information to know. I am hoping to be able to play melodically on the harp, but my husband will probably use it more as a chording instrument, so we'll tune it for the melodies and hope that staying in just a few keys will keep the temperament from bugging me too much!
Thank you so much for posting this, Ive been waiting patiently for this one lol,,even though I tune mine, its nice to get pointers from the pro. :)
Thanks again
Sylvia in Sask. Can
My father, an opera singer had a large Steinway in his studio and the piano tuner used to come every month back in the 60s. He would just start with an a 440 or 442 hz, The other strings he would tune using fifths and octaves just listening to the beats in each interval.
The vast majority of people do not possess the aural acuity of piano tuners and cannot hear the “beats” between intervals.
@@autoharpist I don’t know about other people but I’ve been a session musician since 1970, back then we didn’t have tuning machines so we tuned our guitars and basses just by listening to the beats of the fifths. Similar to the way violinists do it as well. Have a nice weekend!
Thanks sooooo much for this video!!!! I am excited to start strumming!!!!
how do you know what each string is supposed to be. Is there a chart somewhere
The strings on this particular autoharp are tuned to a specific tuning schedule that I requested from the luthier. And yes there is a chart or guide that shows what note each string is supposed to be. However, once the autoharp is tuned a few times the strings only drift by a few cents from week to week, so you can tell just by looking at the tuner whether a string is sharp or flat. If the autoharp is new or has been left for weeks without tuning, then you absolutely need to refer to the chart to make sure you don’t over-tune the strings and possibly break one or damage the instrument. Most chromatic manufactured autoharps (Oscar Schmidt, Chromaharp, etc.) have the tuning notes for each string printed on the top of the autoharp next to the tuning pins.
Thank you so much! I'm a banjo player, but I was at a jam today and I had never seen an autoharp! (Though I did know about Mother Maybelle Carter). I fell in love! @@autoharpist
What mode is the turner set on. ? Guitar.
The tuner is set on ‘Chromatic’. That’s the only setting you can use with an autoharp because you need the tuner to pick up all 12 notes in the western scale.
Hello, I have a autoharp by Oscar Schmidt that I purchased in the mid 1970s. I pulled it out again and want to tune it. I had ordered a SNARK SN-5X turner that clipped on to the top of the harp, much as the one you showed in your utube video. Unfortunately, my harp is too wide. - it is 1 1/2” thick and the tuner does not open that wide. So, I’m looking for one that either has a wider span or a good one that perhaps lays on the strings as I tune it. Looking for any help you might be able to offer. Thank you
Jeanne Vencill I didn’t have the tuner clipped to the side of the autoharp - it’s too wide for any tuner. I clip it to the tuning pins, usually two or three of them. It takes a bit of fiddling to find a group of pins that the clip will fit, but that’s where you need to clip it. You can also put your tuning wrench on one of the pins and clip the tuner to the wrench handle.
Amazon has wide variety of tuners.
Thank you so much!
What would you charge to tune mine. .
I'm restringing my OS model B 15chord that i re-chorded maybe 30 years ago. I'm only doing 1 string at a time and my work is such that I can only do about 6 strings a day at this pace.. I was wondering about fine tuners. I feel with the cumbersome tuning wrench its a "horseshoes & hand-grenades" method of tuning. Can fine-tuners be retrofitted to an OS model B or should i just buy a new 21 chord OS with finetuners from the factory. I'm an exceedingly cheap musician and I rarely pay over $100 for any instrument.
I also have 2 model A's and i'm trying to decipher the 4 digit code stamped into the back. They both look so old. I would like to make one of the playable again
OS B-model autoharps can be retrofitted with fine tuners. They certainly make life easier. Installing them can be a bit tricky, depending on the depth and width of the channel where the bottom bridge rests - which sometimes needs to be modified so the fine tuners can work properly. Installation is best done when new strings are put on. But before you invest in fine tuners, what kind of tuning wrench are you using right now? If it’s the wrench that came with the autoharp, you need to throw it out. It’s made of metal that is softer than the tuning pins and after a few months’ use it becomes essentially worthless. Get a decent wrench like this one: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1931415063%3Fiid%3D110452732102 It will make tuning MUCH easier.
@@autoharpist yes. consider that done. my tuning wrench is horrible. Its not even at a 90 degree angle. i figured that would solve much of my problem.
I notice you use a thumb pick. My daughters hands are freakishly tiny. Do they make thumb picks for children?
@@chazworm3 The Kelly family of thumb picks tend to run pretty small, and they work very well. If it's still too big for her thumb, you can always wrap some adhesive (bandage) tape around it. I've also seen where folks have dipped the wrap portion of the thumb pick in Plasti-dip, that stuff they make for coating the handles of screwdrivers and such. It might take more than one coat of that stuff to get it small enough, but it does work. I use a Kelly Speed Pick which has a very narrow plectrum. They also make one called the "Slick Pick" which has a wider, more normal-looking plectrum. The Kelly picks come in three colors: Orange (soft), Yellow (medium), and White (hard).
Autoharp tuning? The electronic tuner is doing all of the work for you. Have you ever tuned a piano by ear, like piano tuners do?
Piano tuners use either strobe tuners or - prior to the advent of electronic strobe tuners - tuning forks. The latter requiring years of experience in developing relative pitch and interval pitch recognition by ear. Unless is blessed with perfect pitch or accurate relative pitch ability, tuning ANY multi-stringed instrument by ear is beyond the ability of most people.
I appreciate your videos. I bought a 15-chord electric Chromaharp made in the 1960's, and cannot locate a rectangular-peg tuning wrench: all the vendors so far only sell the square-peg tuning wrench for non-electric Chromaharps. The electric Chromaharp's tuning pegs are underneath the treble side of the pin end, coming out at a right-angle. Thanks for any pointers.
Hi, John. I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I can point you to some folks who might be able to help. There's a group on Facebook that I moderate -- the Autoharp group -- that has several hundred members and there are a number of luthiers and autoharp repair experts among them. If you're on Facebook, search "autoharp" and you'll find the group. It's a closed group, so you have to request membership (keeps the spammers out), but if anyone knows where to find a tuner to fit your instrument, someone in the group will either know or find out. They might be able to come up with a work-around also. Good luck!
Thanks for this great tutorial
Jo Ann, I've learned a lot from watching your videos. I just purchased my first Oscar Schmidt Autoharp it has fine tuners and my question is, how do you tune the fine tuners?
Good question. When you first get your autoharp, the fine tuners should all be at the same height/level. Look across the row at eye level and make sure they are all pretty close to the same. If not, take the allen wrench that came with it and adjust them until they're reasonably even. (Don't worry about tuning just yet.) Once the fine tuners are level, do your first several tunings (6 or so) using only the regular tuning pins at the top of the 'harp. Tune once a day for about a week. By then, the new strings will have settled in and you'll be able to use just your fine tuners for most of your day to day tuning needs. You'll find this is necessary any time you get new strings. If the strings ever go more than a half step flat or sharp, using the big pins to get it back close to pitch, and then use the fine tuners.
I still can't tune mine after watching your video. My autoharp does not say which note to tune each string to - what should the lowest string be tuned to?
A Pilgrim's Progress It depends on what kind of Autoharp you have. Tell me about it - how many strings, how many chord bars, what brand it is, etc.
How often does the autoharp go out of tune? Do you have to tune it everytime you play a set? That would be a pain in the arse
If the autoharp is new or has been left to drift out of tune for a long time, it may take about of week of regular tuning to get the strings settled in. After that, a weekly touch-up is all that's generally needed. Like any instrument, weather and humidity will affect the tuning. Autoharps will go flat in the winter because of the colder, drier climate, and then go sharp in the spring and summer when things warm up and get more humid. But tuning is just part of the job. Nobody likes doing it, but you get used to it after a while and it's not so bad. Kind of like changing a diaper. ;)
@@autoharpist haha...
Thank you, this was helpful
My husband picked up an old autoharp. I bought the same type of chromatic tuner,and the clip doesn’t open wide enough to clip onto the instrument at the top of the pegs. Also, I bought two tuning wrenches and the pegs are too small. Do you have any idea where I can get an old timer tuning wrench?
The clip-on tuners were designed to fit on the headstock of guitars, so getting them to fit on the autoharp tuning pins can be a challenge. One of the best spots is at the top of the autoharp where the tuning pins change from two rows of pins down to one row. I can generally find two pins up there that are close enough together to get a good grip for the tuner clip. The tuning wrench that comes as standard equipment with factory autoharps is made of softer metal than the pins themselves, and over time the wrench ends up being pretty much useless. Here is a link to Amazon for a T-handled tuning wrench with a star-shaped tip. This will fit your pins -- just be careful to get a good, solid fit with the wrench before attempting to tune. The star-tip can scar the pins if not fitted carefully, but if used properly it's one of the best tuning wrenches for autoharps. Here's the link: amzn.to/2n7JOyL
I had my new autoharp tuned and was told the felts for F & F# are reversed. What do I do?
This means that *some* of the chord bars have felts that are cut incorrectly. Those bars will need to have the felt removed and replaced with new felt, which can then be cut to properly voice the chord(s). You have two options: Send the autoharp to someone who can do the job, or do it yourself. I put up a video a couple of weeks ago that shows how to replace and cut felt, along with links to templates and instructions. It’s not hard to do. Ask the person who did the tuning to identify which chord bars need to be re-felted . It won’t be all of them, so don’t worry. Watch the video, which you can find here: ua-cam.com/video/pFH_SjpxGf0/v-deo.html The video is about moving the chord bars and re-felting a couple of them to make it easier to play - which would be a good thing to do in addition to refelting the faulty ones. The template contains the cutting patterns for all of the chords, so it should give you everything you need.
@@autoharpist Thank you for the information. Think I can do it myself.
Hi Joann. Thank you for these You Tubes!. I was recently gifted a 1975 Oscar Schmidt Autoharp and must admit I'm overwhelmed. First, I received no manual and cannot find one on the internet. Mine has buttons, not bars, and has no letters for what note each string is. It is so out of tune, I don't know where to start. Is there a basis layout of the strings? i.e. shortest string is an A, etc.? Thanks very much.
We just purchased a Chromaharp off Ebay (made in Korea) and need to replace the strings. We think it needs type A strings from what we were able to discern from the web. Where do we purchase autoharp strings? We loved your lesson on replacing strings. Thanks so much for your help. We're in Mississippi have found one autoharp player but she has had a triple bypass and not completely well.
M
I bought a second hand autoharp that is so out of town when I play a C note the tuner says it is a B. It's like this across the board. Any special advice about an instrument so out of tune?
Thanx JoAnn for posting this! I saw it about a month ago & I needed to have my Autoharp tuned & I went to the music store in Abingdon, Virginia & I bought a tuner & now I tune my Guitar & Autoharp! Come on by & check out my channel sometime & maybe I can show you some of the songs I play on the Autoharp & Guitar!
Is standard tuning in key of C? Thanks!
Standard tuning for an autoharp is CHROMATIC, which means it has all 12 notes in the western scale. This allows you to play in several different keys on the autoharp, including the key of C. Chromatic tuning means that it's similar to a piano. You have all the notes -- all the white keys and all the black keys: C, C#, D, D# (Eb), E, F, F#, G, G# (Ab), A and A# (Bb). Standard tuning means an equal-tempered scale centered on A=220hz.
I just bought a new Oscar Schmidt 21 chord autoharp with of course new strings. After two days of tuning it every several hours the strings will not hold the correct note. You have suggested tuning the harp every day until the strings settle in. Are there no strings on the market that can hold their note longer without going flat/?
Jerry Scott The strings aren't the problem, it's just the nature of the beast. Sometimes it takes more than a couple of days for it to stay consistently in. But what concerns me is that the strings should have been only marginally flat when you got it. Try this: Tune all of the C's first. Then all of the C#'s. Then all of the D's. Then all of the D#'s, etc. That way you'll be tuning the strings in a random order, and not straight across from bottom to top. Or top to bottom. If all of the strings are drifting flat at the same rate, it just means it will take more time to settle in. But if you have individual strings that keep going way off, then it's probably a loose tuning pin.
Autoharp, well, seems too hard to me!
I decided to just be an audience of your channel!
cool...so it's similar to how I tune my bowed psaltry
very helpful! thanks! Hubby has tuned guitars for years - so he's tuning mine until
I get comfortable with it. He has an automatic tuner.
Nice thanks, I'm taking guitar now. Maybe my wife will be interested in autoharp. :-)
HI. A friend just gave me an autoharp that she aquired from a school. Just with a quick strum, i can tell it is wayyyyyyyyyyy out of tune. I dont know where to start, and is there a fear of breaking anything if i tune it myself?
The trick to tuning up a *very* out-of-tune autoharp is to do it in small increments over a period of several days. The proper pitch for each of the strings should be printed on the face of the autoharp, right next to each tuning pin. Using an electronic tuner, determine how flat each string is, and then gently tune the string up toward the correct pitch -- but change it NO MORE THAN ONE WHOLE STEP. For instance if you have a string that's supposed to be a C, and it's reading A, don't go all the way back up to C or it will break. Bring it up to B first. Do this for all of the strings, and then let it set for a day or two. It will go flat again over those two days, but not as much. The next time, bring the pitch back up to where you had it before, and then go beyond that a half step. Let it set for a day or two again. Then repeat, until you have the 'harp tuned properly. Once you have all the strings back up to pitch, tune it *daily* for about a week. Also play it! Playing the strings will help them settle in to the new tuning. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't hold right away. Just keep at it until it stabilizes. It takes time, but it can be done.
I find the Intelli tuner doesn't pick up the lower 3-4 string well. I have to push it really hard against the case for it to pickup, and even then i am often reduced to tuning the lower string to the equivalent strings on next higher octave (i.e. F, G, C). Any suggestions?
This issue is common and it doesn't seem to be specific to the tuner. I've used a number of tuners, everything from clip-ons to phone apps to strobes, and the lower strings are always difficult to tune. When you get to the bottom strings with the lowest tones (and resulting broad wavelengths), the natural under- and/or over-tones of those wound strings are more apt to be caught by the tuner. That's why the needle jumps around so much. A few things to try: 1) Clip the tuner as close to the specific string you are tuning as possible. 2) Pluck the string at its midpoint, and with a medium-to-light touch. 3) Repeat, repeat, repeat. 4) When frustration sets in, do what you've already been doing: Use your ear. Bottom line, don't waste too much time getting the tuning absolutely perfect. Tune it before you go to a jam and when your ear tells you it's time to tune, but don't go overboard. Hope this helps!
Hi again, Jo Ann, I am wondering what you think about tempering tuning on a chromatic harp. I have found some information elsewhere, but since your chromatic harp sounds pretty good, I wonder if you did any tempering in the tuning, or just go straight off the digital tuner.
I really enjoy your videos and hope to be able to pick a tune soon!
Hi, Amy.
I go straight off the digital tuner. I tried a number of tempered tunings early on in my playing; but I found that those alternate tunings worked best when strumming chords and didn't work well when picking single melody notes. Now that I've settled into a "mostly melody" playing style, I tune all my 'harps straight up on the tuner with no variation.
Thanks a bunch for the information, Jo Ann! Tomorrow is Christmas and we get to officially "open" our autoharp present to ourselves from Santa! Happy Holidays!
Amy McLean This will be a special Christmas indeed! Enjoy!!
P.S. I really like your playing styles!!! I love how you also changed that Chromatic to a Diatonic!!
are there videos with tuning string by string..? no electronic tuner !
Not that I know of.
@@autoharpist well ever think of doing one ? i just want a general quick tuning with the notes being told stribng by string and hearing them
hi i have just purchased a antique auto harp which has a three cord bar on it, it is called a auto camping harp it think
i want to know where i can go to search how to play it, plus how to tune it as it is way out of tune at present. eg from the longest side to the shortest side.
thank
With only three chord bars and your description of "antique", I'm going to guess that what you have is a C.F. Zimmerman model #1. These were one of the very first autoharps in production, and were made around 1885 (130 years ago). I don't know for sure if this is what you actually have -- but if so I would not suggest trying to make it playable again. These little autoharps weren't made with the best of materials and it's very rare to find one that doesn't have cracks or splits in the wood and joints that are still intact. Even if the body appears to be in good shape, it's very doubtful you could put new strings on it (which would have to be custom-made), tune it up to pitch and have the body survive without collapsing. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news! But if you have something other than a CF Zimmerman, your best bet would be to contact one of the autoharp makers/repair techs and get their input. Just Google "autoharp repair" and you should find a number of contacts.
I just got an autoharp and got a book on how to play it. The book said the most important thing was to learn to tune it. So I was doing just fine and then I tried to tune the middle B and broke a string. I didn't even turn it much at all. The electronic tuner said it was flat and I just turned it a bit to get the indicator in the middle and it broke.
You didn't do anything wrong. There are several reasons why a string might break, but the most likely cause is the string itself. It could have a weak spot where it touches the autoharp or where it bends to go around the pin. If the strings are old, the risk of breakage goes up a lot, particularly if there is any rust visible anywhere on the strings or hardware. You can order individual replacement strings, but my best advice would be to see if your autoharp needs more TLC than just a replacement string. Odds are extremely good that it needs to be optimized in order to play the way it should. Contact one of the autoharp luthiers who can advise you. Just Google 'autoharp luthiers' and you'll find several.
what size tuning wrench should I use? the guy at the music store told me all I needed was a drum key, but it's too big!
Google "Autoharp Tuning Wrench" and look for the T-handled model. They cost more than the standard wrench but are better quality and easier to use, in my opinion.
Thanks Jo Ann!
sometimes i wish i had an autoharp
@Thouchins Agreed!
Who needs a tuner when you're gifted with perfect pitch?