Your English is better than me trying other languages. Thank you for sharing this, I could feel the range anxiety on your way back. It's important to have people sharing these experiences with all of us so we make better decisions. I just subscribed and thumbs as well. 👍🏻
Hx= conductance which is inversely proportional to resistance. Meaning that the internal resistance of the overall pack at 4x % is 2x+way out of spec and increases exponentially with load. Hence voltage sag. As someone said it’s cells in the big stack so potentially they could be replaced with ones similar in capacity to rest of pack. And perhaps the worst effected in the smaller “v”.😊
It is OK for some time and maybe for driving around the city. It reduces the power draw but that also means you have to drive much slower uphill which can be problematic on busy roads. ECO mode just changes the responsiveness of the accelerator as you have to push it further for the same effect.
@@CitroenAMIDeutschland-bk2vu I have a small workshop producing some electronic products, for example SMS bee hive scale and EVSE. Repairing Leaf battery is still on a hobby scale, probing if it would be worth developing a business in that direction. If you will be somewhere near you are welcome to drop by for a beer (0,0 of course).
My Nissan leaf 2018 40KWh is 190000 and running into the same issue when running at 50% battery or less. What is the solution? Module replacement or whole battery replacement? Also how much would it cost to replace either? Thx 🙏
Buying new battery is hardly an option, because it is too expensive. Buying used battery is a huge risk since you never know what you will get and they are insanely expensive. Cell replacement is in my opinion the best option if you want to keep the car. There is no need for additional CAN bridge and the LBC learns new capacity slowly. In this car it went from 82% to 91% already without programming. Also it looks like it heats up less then the original. total cost is about 6,500€.
@@slavric vivne company from china was offering for 7500-8000 usd their battery 62kwh with shipping. Still quite expensive. Mostly for gen , maybe they have somethiung for gen 2. Strange because their batteries are from CATL, which said that battery price will go down by 50% and... I don't see that xd
looks like a loose busbar inside the pack. or loose BMS (battery management system) wire, something is loose, you can see it on the leafspy while the car is under load it shows between the rear and front battery stacks. check high voltage battery service fuse connections accessible by a cover on the mid floor back seats. this fuse splits the pack connections. on the newer leaf pack the fuse is small compared to the heavy duty bulk type used on the first years 2011-12 model leafs. small connections result in high resistance.
Battery does not perform on heavy load. How long you can run on it in eco mode? Maybe somewhere in flat land and without full throttle that battery would last another 180K km.
I doubt, that it would last so much longer. The cells are extremely inflated, just before bursting. Even if it would drive, it is far from safe. Highway also drains it instantly.
@@slavric If you saw cells are physically damaged and inflated, then it may explain whats here. What is interesting here that leaf spy SOC and car battery percentage so different.
What is the HX Value? You mentioned it is more important than the SOC, may you explain it to me please? I own a 40kW Leaf as well, my SOC is already down at 92%, 65.000km and less than 100 Fastcharges
@@therandomtester9561 No Leaf spy does not explain Hx very well it doesn't explain it at all just shows % and a number that's it, i want to here what the Nissan engineers have to saw regarding.
interesting issue, haven't seen it so far in any other vid. I would expec BMS to limit power output to try and avoid such voltage sag but seems that it's poorly implemented.
@@ionut8091 If you aren't capable of repairing the battery yourself then don't buy it. If you do, it is worth maybe $4,000 for 2019 or maybe even less.
Hx= conductance which is inversely proportional to resistance. Meaning that the internal resistance of the overall pack at 4x % is 2x+way out of spec and increases exponentially with load. Hence voltage sag. As someone said it’s cells in the big stack so potentially they could be replaced with ones similar in capacity to rest of pack. And perhaps the worst effected in the smaller “v”.
Thanks for video, very informative. I wish i could have seen it before buying the leaf. Any updates about the new battery? All good? You gave me hope to go on and building a battery for my car
Yes, all good. I replaced the cells and the SOH went back to 100% and Hx even to 125%. The battery is heating much less then the original. Those CATL cells are really something. It is just my opinion but I think that they are better then the original. Time will tell.
This is exactly what the 2020 SV plus leaf I just bought does. Only got 75 miles of range… battery went from 68% to 32% after getting back onto the interstate highway. Dropped super fast after that too. I think the actual state of health is well below 50%
Gospod Srečko pozdravljeni. Sem iz Črnomlja in sodeč po videu sva skoraj "soseda". Vas bom kar takole vprašal v materinem jeziku: sem pred nakupom Nissan Leafa in vidim, da jih poznate v dušo. Na volje je avto z 41kWh baterijo,uvoz iz Nemčije, prodaja firma, po števcu narejenih 5000(pet tisoč), prva registracija september 2021. Avto res zgleda kot nov, cena zelo ugodna. Ali bi mi me moralo skrbeti kaj v zvezi z baterijo ali kaj drugega? Odločiti se moram do ponedeljka. Hvala za odgovor. Lp :)
Pozdravljeni. Sicer niste napisali, kakšna je ta ugodna cena, ampak smatram da okrog 15.000 do 17.000€. Leaf je povsem v redu avto na splošno, ima pa zelo znano napako v zasnovi baterije. Avto je v redu za krajše razdalje in polnjenje doma, za daljše razdalje z vmesnim hitrim polnjenjem ga je pa škoda, ker bo baterija hitro degradirala. Jaz osebno ga zase nebi kupil, razen če bi bila cena res ugodna. Z njim lahko pričakujete kakih 200.000km, potem bo pa počasi treba razmišljati o zamenjavi baterije. Leafa ima žena za v službo in nazaj, občasno za v mesto. Za ostalo pa imam Hyundai kono, je veliko bolj varčen in trpežen avto in tudi pelje se bolj agilno, baterija pa bi morala zdržati približno dvakrat dlje. Obilo sreče pri nakupu.
Absolutely don't buy. Nissan leaf is a nice car for commuting and used one can be a good buy for someone who can rebuild the battery himself, which is rare. Buy Kona instead, much much better car.
Hi mate. How many cells did you have you buy and how much was the cost? I bought a 40 kWh Leaf with 60k km but can only get a range of 200km driving calmly. The capacity is 12 bars but I haven’t got leafspy. I think mine is done like yours…
Hello. I don't think your battery is as bad as this one. Leaf is not as efficient as Kona so getting 200km out isn't so bad. Buy a dongle for 5€ and test it.
@@slavric I actually had a Kona 39kWh a while ago and I’m shocked at how these cars are different. I miss it so much. Do you know what normally is the range you can expect from a 2018 Leaf 40 with 60k km?
@@danisantos3255 This is really hard to predict, you know yourself how different results can be. My guess is around 200 to 230km. It is hard to get Leaf under 13kWh/100km and easy to get Kona under 11. Leaf is a nice car for my wife, commuting daily 30km, sometimes shopping adds another 20km daily. It's for the 2nd car in family. Kona is more stable and jumpy, more efficient and precise in steering. Since I live in a small country it is just fine for me. I also have 39kWh version which is lighter and has "only" 100kW of power. It is totally enough for this kind of a car.
@@slavric hey mate. Thank you so much for your patience. I’m actually roadtripping right now because I bought the Leaf at the other end of the country and I still haven’t got the OBD dongle. So I tried something today. I set off with 100% SOH and drove 180km to 11% with 14,6kWh/100km avg consumption. This gives me an estimated 29,5kWh battery capacity from 100-0%. Is this around the same as your car? Can I expect about 15% battery degradation? I find the Kona to be much more comfortable, better ergonomics, more predictable… it really is a nice car :)
@@danisantos3255 It is really hard to say without LeafSpy. Actually Hx is also very important and uphill test should be performed to check cell imbalance under load. But let me guess. Your battery will have around 83% SOH and 75% Hx. Let me know when you check it.
Nice video. Nissan, you can do better. Another dead 40. I consider HX on 40 kWh packs as SOH because it's so much better representation of the real battery condition. Greetings from Los Angeles.
You can see the dip under load in voltage on the left side of the cell voltages chart. Those cells are in the rear stack, sandwitched together.. The inner cells are hotter, and age faster than the cells on the side. That's why you see the 'V' shape there. 4:08
Another fried 40kWh Nissan Leaf battery: anyone interested in a used Leaf, don't buy one that has seen the quick chargers very often. Because the quick charging, fries the battery pack in the end.
Internal resistance is the best indicator for battery health, this is shown by voltage drop under load, that battery is very poor. I fancy a used ev but the reality is batteries have limited lifespan and so many cells in a car makes it expensive to replace. I have flown rc models with lipo batteries for many years and results vary wildly depending on quantity of battety in the first place and the way they are used. Some have lasted 15 years still going and others didnt make 6 months...
The LEAF is cheap enough now (on the UK used market at least) to take a risk. Most cars will have been charged slowly, and driven normally. You can do basic health checks on the battery before you buy. I've bought a 2018 LEAF recently and plan to keep it for a couple of years. It won't be going on long journeys very often, and it will still have plenty of range when I sell it on. Aside from the lack of battery cooling, the LEAF is a reliable car that can be great value. Another EV with battery cooling will be a safer bet, but you will pay for that added security so you can't win!
Sajnos amikor többször felmelegszik a hátsó cella sor ez fog történni. Nekem hx:70.xx% volt minden működött de nem engedte a dc töltést. 2017-18 gyártású akkumulátor sajnos mind ilyen. 2018 decembertől javították a hibát. Amúgy gratulálok az új akku hoz. Nem kis munka volt! Itt van a hátsó cellasor: ua-cam.com/video/-6KPm5v0B6Q/v-deo.htmlsi=NEBS2jS0cSSOsdLH
Your battery is almost dead and out or warranty. Who ever quick charged the car 971 times killed the battery. Was quick charged 971 times and slowly charged another 2351 times. Looks like a taxi. Mileage is way too high aswell for a car that wasn't used as a taxi.
It's probably not the number of QCs in total, but the number of QCs in succession that have damaged the battery. When Nissan "fixed" the rapidgate problem in the LEAF 40, that probably didn't help as the charge power was being limited for a reason in the old firmware: to preserve battery life.
Leafspy SoC 40.8%, car 0%, 676mV imbalance. Do not use Leafspy SoC to drive with in any leaf But very good demonstration about how misleading SoH is in any leaf pack except the original 24KWh My rule of thumb, if Hx is 10% (or more) lower than SoH, the battery is no good The higher cell charge voltage of ZE1 pushes NMC to the limit and is a big contributor to the problem
It is so sad to see that Nissan was pretty much the first company to have a decent mass-market EV. This is now the state of it. BYD and MG seem to be of better quality, and they haven't even been making cars for a decade.
When a new brand gets introduced to the market, it simply has to do it's best to build a strong user base, good reviews and to prove it is worth considering. I don't doubt that Chinese will do their best to attract and hold their EU/US customer base. Their quality and support will have to be impeccable. And it will be or they will fail. Nissan lost trust of many of their customers. When the word gets out it is hard to regain trust. We'll see soon.
@@slavric All the Japanese brands are lacking when it comes to EVs. I think Chinese cars will replace Japanese cars in the coming decade. Lots of countries are now starting to ban ICE cars sometime in the 2030-2050s. Koreans are doing great tho, we have an ioniq 5 and it's awesome.
I would say: run a battery health check that includes the internal resistance before you buy. My 2014 LEAF has 85k miles on the clock, but the Hx is still over 80%, so it's fine as a short journey car. I will never travel more than 50 miles per day however.
Your English is better than me trying other languages. Thank you for sharing this, I could feel the range anxiety on your way back. It's important to have people sharing these experiences with all of us so we make better decisions.
I just subscribed and thumbs as well. 👍🏻
Thank you. Your input is appreciated a lot. I'm glad if I can be of help.
wow so may weak cells, voltage sag is massive :(
First video I've seen on YT that takes Hx into account.
And the fact, that it is even more important then the SOH. In fact, it should be the part of SOH.
what is Hx?
@@AlmightyPyro internal resistance
@@decimal1815 what should the hx be? i have it at (101.33% and soh at 100.00%) got a new battery so i want to maintain it well atleast this time
@@ridmadissanayake5201 You're good, at least for some time.
Hx= conductance which is inversely proportional to resistance. Meaning that the internal resistance of the overall pack at 4x % is 2x+way out of spec and increases exponentially with load. Hence voltage sag. As someone said it’s cells in the big stack so potentially they could be replaced with ones similar in capacity to rest of pack. And perhaps the worst effected in the smaller “v”.😊
Driving ECO MODE is an option i heard somewhere else to reduce power draw from bad cells.
It is OK for some time and maybe for driving around the city. It reduces the power draw but that also means you have to drive much slower uphill which can be problematic on busy roads. ECO mode just changes the responsiveness of the accelerator as you have to push it further for the same effect.
@@slavric Of course. Do you have a repair shop in Slovenia? I come by several times a year. Maybe worth visiting your place?
@@CitroenAMIDeutschland-bk2vu I have a small workshop producing some electronic products, for example SMS bee hive scale and EVSE. Repairing Leaf battery is still on a hobby scale, probing if it would be worth developing a business in that direction. If you will be somewhere near you are welcome to drop by for a beer (0,0 of course).
My Nissan leaf 2018 40KWh is 190000 and running into the same issue when running at 50% battery or less. What is the solution? Module replacement or whole battery replacement? Also how much would it cost to replace either?
Thx 🙏
Buying new battery is hardly an option, because it is too expensive. Buying used battery is a huge risk since you never know what you will get and they are insanely expensive. Cell replacement is in my opinion the best option if you want to keep the car. There is no need for additional CAN bridge and the LBC learns new capacity slowly. In this car it went from 82% to 91% already without programming. Also it looks like it heats up less then the original. total cost is about 6,500€.
Bin
@@slavric vivne company from china was offering for 7500-8000 usd their battery 62kwh with shipping. Still quite expensive. Mostly for gen , maybe they have somethiung for gen 2. Strange because their batteries are from CATL, which said that battery price will go down by 50% and... I don't see that xd
looks like a loose busbar inside the pack. or loose BMS (battery management system) wire, something is loose, you can see it on the leafspy while the car is under load it shows between the rear and front battery stacks. check high voltage battery service fuse connections accessible by a cover on the mid floor back seats. this fuse splits the pack connections. on the newer leaf pack the fuse is small compared to the heavy duty bulk type used on the first years 2011-12 model leafs. small connections result in high resistance.
Unfortunately that wasn't the case. The cells were damaged by heat.
@@slavric i see,
Battery does not perform on heavy load. How long you can run on it in eco mode? Maybe somewhere in flat land and without full throttle that battery would last another 180K km.
I doubt, that it would last so much longer. The cells are extremely inflated, just before bursting. Even if it would drive, it is far from safe. Highway also drains it instantly.
@@slavric If you saw cells are physically damaged and inflated, then it may explain whats here. What is interesting here that leaf spy SOC and car battery percentage so different.
@@slavric I saw discussion on mynissanleaf. Thanks.
What is the HX Value?
You mentioned it is more important than the SOC, may you explain it to me please?
I own a 40kW Leaf as well, my SOC is already down at 92%, 65.000km and less than 100 Fastcharges
Hx is internal resistance I believe. Leafspy explaines all numbers and function pretty well.
Please, check on the link, it is discussed quite in detail mynissanleaf.com/threads/leaf-30kwh-2017-any-opinion-on-those-graphs.34961/
@@therandomtester9561 No Leaf spy does not explain Hx very well it doesn't explain it at all just shows % and a number that's it, i want to here what the Nissan engineers have to saw regarding.
interesting issue, haven't seen it so far in any other vid. I would expec BMS to limit power output to try and avoid such voltage sag but seems that it's poorly implemented.
What is the max range of the battery? you can still go with her 150km?
Maybe on a warm day in eco mode. I replaced the cells anyway and the SOH went back to 100% and HX to 125%. You can make almost 300km with that.
@@slavric I don't know what to do, I want to buy a Nissan leaf with the same battery problem, it looks identical soh and hx
@@ionut8091 If you aren't capable of repairing the battery yourself then don't buy it. If you do, it is worth maybe $4,000 for 2019 or maybe even less.
Very good video, thanks! I am really surprised that a battery with 82% State of Health would perform so badly! I would never have expected that.
Did you end up getting a new battery? wish i had seen this video before buying the 40khw leaf i should have gone with the MG4
I replaced the cells. You should bettery buy MG, if you ask me. They seem to be decent cars.
Did Nissan cover the battery repair under warranty? @@slavric
@@linuxwarrior1 Of course not. It was out of warranty already.
@@slavric i have the 40kw leaf already so far its alright.
Hx= conductance which is inversely proportional to resistance. Meaning that the internal resistance of the overall pack at 4x % is 2x+way out of spec and increases exponentially with load. Hence voltage sag. As someone said it’s cells in the big stack so potentially they could be replaced with ones similar in capacity to rest of pack. And perhaps the worst effected in the smaller “v”.
Thanks for video, very informative. I wish i could have seen it before buying the leaf.
Any updates about the new battery? All good?
You gave me hope to go on and building a battery for my car
Yes, all good. I replaced the cells and the SOH went back to 100% and Hx even to 125%. The battery is heating much less then the original. Those CATL cells are really something. It is just my opinion but I think that they are better then the original. Time will tell.
Slovenia looks amazing by the way - would love to see some videos of you driving an EV around the countryside :)
Thank you. Indeed Slovenia is a beautiful country and it never crossed my mind to record a trip. Might do that in the future.
When you have a working car, of course.
This is exactly what the 2020 SV plus leaf I just bought does. Only got 75 miles of range… battery went from 68% to 32% after getting back onto the interstate highway. Dropped super fast after that too. I think the actual state of health is well below 50%
Should still be under warranty, maybe go see a Nissan dealer?
@@slhs1992 Yep, I did. Parts are on back order but I don't care because they gave me a Aryia for a loaner!
@@DaddyEric222 Nice one! 😀
Gospod Srečko pozdravljeni. Sem iz Črnomlja in sodeč po videu sva skoraj "soseda". Vas bom kar takole vprašal v materinem jeziku: sem pred nakupom Nissan Leafa in vidim, da jih poznate v dušo. Na volje je avto z 41kWh baterijo,uvoz iz Nemčije, prodaja firma, po števcu narejenih 5000(pet tisoč), prva registracija september 2021. Avto res zgleda kot nov, cena zelo ugodna. Ali bi mi me moralo skrbeti kaj v zvezi z baterijo ali kaj drugega? Odločiti se moram do ponedeljka. Hvala za odgovor. Lp :)
Pozdravljeni. Sicer niste napisali, kakšna je ta ugodna cena, ampak smatram da okrog 15.000 do 17.000€. Leaf je povsem v redu avto na splošno, ima pa zelo znano napako v zasnovi baterije. Avto je v redu za krajše razdalje in polnjenje doma, za daljše razdalje z vmesnim hitrim polnjenjem ga je pa škoda, ker bo baterija hitro degradirala. Jaz osebno ga zase nebi kupil, razen če bi bila cena res ugodna. Z njim lahko pričakujete kakih 200.000km, potem bo pa počasi treba razmišljati o zamenjavi baterije. Leafa ima žena za v službo in nazaj, občasno za v mesto. Za ostalo pa imam Hyundai kono, je veliko bolj varčen in trpežen avto in tudi pelje se bolj agilno, baterija pa bi morala zdržati približno dvakrat dlje. Obilo sreče pri nakupu.
wow very informative ,i look also 40kwh leaf 2019 but after this i pass the type
Absolutely don't buy. Nissan leaf is a nice car for commuting and used one can be a good buy for someone who can rebuild the battery himself, which is rare. Buy Kona instead, much much better car.
@@slavric yes kona is very good heat pump...or Peugeot 208 50kwh?
971 QC is a high value for the Leaf.... it indicate that battery probaly was very hot many times
Hi mate. How many cells did you have you buy and how much was the cost?
I bought a 40 kWh Leaf with 60k km but can only get a range of 200km driving calmly. The capacity is 12 bars but I haven’t got leafspy. I think mine is done like yours…
Hello. I don't think your battery is as bad as this one. Leaf is not as efficient as Kona so getting 200km out isn't so bad. Buy a dongle for 5€ and test it.
@@slavric I actually had a Kona 39kWh a while ago and I’m shocked at how these cars are different. I miss it so much. Do you know what normally is the range you can expect from a 2018 Leaf 40 with 60k km?
@@danisantos3255 This is really hard to predict, you know yourself how different results can be. My guess is around 200 to 230km. It is hard to get Leaf under 13kWh/100km and easy to get Kona under 11. Leaf is a nice car for my wife, commuting daily 30km, sometimes shopping adds another 20km daily. It's for the 2nd car in family. Kona is more stable and jumpy, more efficient and precise in steering. Since I live in a small country it is just fine for me. I also have 39kWh version which is lighter and has "only" 100kW of power. It is totally enough for this kind of a car.
@@slavric hey mate. Thank you so much for your patience. I’m actually roadtripping right now because I bought the Leaf at the other end of the country and I still haven’t got the OBD dongle. So I tried something today. I set off with 100% SOH and drove 180km to 11% with 14,6kWh/100km avg consumption. This gives me an estimated 29,5kWh battery capacity from 100-0%. Is this around the same as your car? Can I expect about 15% battery degradation?
I find the Kona to be much more comfortable, better ergonomics, more predictable… it really is a nice car :)
@@danisantos3255 It is really hard to say without LeafSpy. Actually Hx is also very important and uphill test should be performed to check cell imbalance under load. But let me guess. Your battery will have around 83% SOH and 75% Hx. Let me know when you check it.
Nice video. Nissan, you can do better. Another dead 40. I consider HX on 40 kWh packs as SOH because it's so much better representation of the real battery condition. Greetings from Los Angeles.
Greetings back to you from my tiny Slovenia.
You can see the dip under load in voltage on the left side of the cell voltages chart. Those cells are in the rear stack, sandwitched together.. The inner cells are hotter, and age faster than the cells on the side. That's why you see the 'V' shape there. 4:08
Another fried 40kWh Nissan Leaf battery: anyone interested in a used Leaf, don't buy one that has seen the quick chargers very often. Because the quick charging, fries the battery pack in the end.
Have you replaced the battery ? Did you do it by yourself?
Yes, of course. Look at my other videos. SOH went back to 100% and Hx to 125%. So the battery looks to be better then new.
i have a 40kwh leaf and same problem. :)
Internal resistance is the best indicator for battery health, this is shown by voltage drop under load, that battery is very poor.
I fancy a used ev but the reality is batteries have limited lifespan and so many cells in a car makes it expensive to replace.
I have flown rc models with lipo batteries for many years and results vary wildly depending on quantity of battety in the first place and the way they are used.
Some have lasted 15 years still going and others didnt make 6 months...
The LEAF is cheap enough now (on the UK used market at least) to take a risk. Most cars will have been charged slowly, and driven normally. You can do basic health checks on the battery before you buy. I've bought a 2018 LEAF recently and plan to keep it for a couple of years. It won't be going on long journeys very often, and it will still have plenty of range when I sell it on. Aside from the lack of battery cooling, the LEAF is a reliable car that can be great value. Another EV with battery cooling will be a safer bet, but you will pay for that added security so you can't win!
Sajnos amikor többször felmelegszik a hátsó cella sor ez fog történni. Nekem hx:70.xx% volt minden működött de nem engedte a dc töltést. 2017-18 gyártású akkumulátor sajnos mind ilyen. 2018 decembertől javították a hibát. Amúgy gratulálok az új akku hoz. Nem kis munka volt!
Itt van a hátsó cellasor:
ua-cam.com/video/-6KPm5v0B6Q/v-deo.htmlsi=NEBS2jS0cSSOsdLH
Thanks for your compliments. This car is 2019 and still not exactly great.
@@slavric sajnos lehet, hogy az autó 2019 de az akkumulátort lehet, hogy 2018-as.. nekem az autó 18 az akkumulátor 17
Your battery is almost dead and out or warranty. Who ever quick charged the car 971 times killed the battery. Was quick charged 971 times and slowly charged another 2351 times. Looks like a taxi. Mileage is way too high aswell for a car that wasn't used as a taxi.
It's probably not the number of QCs in total, but the number of QCs in succession that have damaged the battery. When Nissan "fixed" the rapidgate problem in the LEAF 40, that probably didn't help as the charge power was being limited for a reason in the old firmware: to preserve battery life.
Leafspy SoC 40.8%, car 0%, 676mV imbalance. Do not use Leafspy SoC to drive with in any leaf
But very good demonstration about how misleading SoH is in any leaf pack except the original 24KWh
My rule of thumb, if Hx is 10% (or more) lower than SoH, the battery is no good
The higher cell charge voltage of ZE1 pushes NMC to the limit and is a big contributor to the problem
It is so sad to see that Nissan was pretty much the first company to have a decent mass-market EV. This is now the state of it. BYD and MG seem to be of better quality, and they haven't even been making cars for a decade.
When a new brand gets introduced to the market, it simply has to do it's best to build a strong user base, good reviews and to prove it is worth considering. I don't doubt that Chinese will do their best to attract and hold their EU/US customer base. Their quality and support will have to be impeccable. And it will be or they will fail. Nissan lost trust of many of their customers. When the word gets out it is hard to regain trust. We'll see soon.
@@slavric All the Japanese brands are lacking when it comes to EVs. I think Chinese cars will replace Japanese cars in the coming decade. Lots of countries are now starting to ban ICE cars sometime in the 2030-2050s.
Koreans are doing great tho, we have an ioniq 5 and it's awesome.
Esa batería tiene celdas en mal estado...
this battery pack is toasted
Wow. My advice: buy a second electric but as new as possible. Even if it’s a Chinese one. It will always be better than a 10 year Nissan with 82% SOH.
I would say: run a battery health check that includes the internal resistance before you buy. My 2014 LEAF has 85k miles on the clock, but the Hx is still over 80%, so it's fine as a short journey car. I will never travel more than 50 miles per day however.
Look at the GOM at this time: ua-cam.com/video/3bQr29xO8E0/v-deo.html
720mv !! dam