This is a video dedictaed to how I use Mr Surfacer, How I achieve textures, when to sand and when to rub and assembly techniques to aid perfect joints with Mr Surfacer.
I watched this taking notes then watched it again taking more notes. I checked with my local hobby shop they do not carry Mr Hobbie. I got on line and placed a order and saved this viedo. The last time I built a model was before they reformulated the glue so kids would not inhale it.😳 That must have been some time in the 60's.
Thank you very much for this. Very informative. Just getting back into the hobby after a 40 year layoff. So much to learn! I wondered how to use this product.
I'm sitting in my man cave right now, windows open to not faint of the smells and fumes this stuff emerges. I've used a lot on a Stormtrooper helmet. But it's so amazing! I was able to hide many botched spots with Mr. Surfacer and actually save the project. But good ventilation is a must!
I have been using the levelling thinner with tamiya lacquer and acrylic and am over the moon with the results, but I never realised surfacing and thinners were so versatile. Excellent videos Nigel, many thanks.
I have a jar of Tamiya liquid surface primer I use for the same purpose. I’ve only used Mrsurfacer 1500 black for final prep. (Which is wonderful stuff🥰) Great video I’ve finally stumbled upon. Cheers Nigel.
Thank you Nigel. I recently heard of Mr surfacer and its related products. Prior to hearing of Mr Surfacer I used Tamya products religously. Thank you letting us know of other options
Hi Nigel, new to your channel, this video was quit informing. Getting bak into modeling after very long time away. Trying to learn all the materials and process. Promise I won't start drinking when you talk about Mr. Surfacer.
I unsubscribed because several of my posts have not been replicated. Ok I am back you are a good person doing what you love, good at and I rely on that to move my hobby forward. Mr Surfacer you talk about it all the time, but I wanted to ask you for more details, here it is, youtube must be reading my mind, talk about chance, thank you
hi Nige WOW im glad that I don't drink……...anyway ive just got into the world of this product and tried to use as primer lucky I tried on test model and the smell of it was over powering but im glued to this vid and its helping what about my snakes they are in my model room so opened all windows and they are still alive boy did I have a headache good videos mate keep up good work mate .
I understand that the number (500,1000, 1200 and 1500 ) refer to the grade of the pigment/solids in the surfacer. Similar to how the grade of grit on sandpaper is higher numbers for finer grit. I also have 1500 Black surfacing finisher in my arsenal of surfacers... I would not mix the pigment grades when thinning- have a separate jar of thinners for each grade (and colour) of Mr Surfacer. Label the lids with a Marker.for ease of use.
Great tutorial on using Mr. Surfacer Nigel. I use it on the cast surfaces of armor and stipple it to give a textured surface. I even add real rust flakes whiles stippling to get a corroded look. To give proper honor to the bottles of Mr. Surfacer that have met their demise I took the liberty of making up an mage of those bottles that are no longer with us but have given their life willingly in the name of modeling. Please check your email and I hope you don’t take umbrage at my use of a little poetic license. Always look forward to your next videos.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Anakin Winston thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Nigel, thanks for this..... I should have got the 500 for my aplication not the 1000 however I'll just thin it as you suggested an use it as primer...and get a bottle of 500. For references my application is I need to fill gaps on plastic multiparty figures
Yes, it does rock! But it's actually pronounced differently then how it's spelled. The correct pronunciation is "Goon"- "Zeh". Not like the English "Guns".
I bought the mr surfacer to try but can't use it as sets off every smoke alarm and carbon alarm in the house lol 😂 family go daft when I do so just stippling for me! Only happenes when it's airbrushed AKs filler primer does exactly the same it must be the pigment or dust that's to thick in the air and the alarms think it's a fire or a carbon leak! Can't be good for us when you think about it haha! I don't like it much to what I've experienced with but I'll keep trying new way's as just on bare plastic it seems to be to easy just to chip to easy or flake back through to the plastic when weathering or using AKs worn effects it's like it's just a painted surface without a primer
You have contaminated Mr Surfacer when it can't be re-thinned and stays gloppy. Also Mr. Dissolved Putty is for filling gaps and big seams. Mr. Surfacer is for smoothing surface scratches.
I recently came across your channel, I am hooked and subscribed. I just bing watched your C-141 build and wish I had seen it before I put mine together. I almost want to get another one and take some of your suggestions to the same problems I had. You are a great molder and impressed with your skills. Cheer from USA.
1200 is my favorite flavour.Got the new Ryefield M4(a3e8) Sherman and some haribo,its very good all round.Halfway through build,its Universal carrier moulding quality,and a cross between takom/dragon in approach.Its on par with thier Panther kit in detail and complexity.Makes Tasca look medievel.Working track's are almost real in construction,look and behave really authentically.With PE inc its a perfect OOTB kit.4.4K???
@@NigelsModellingBench reason I got this product was as a primer once I found out you need to wear a mask when priming. As the only warning I had on the primer I used was “use in well ventilated area, avoid breathing in fumes getting in eyes or hands”. So assumed going outside would have been enough. Then found out I should have also worse a mask, so I got this assuming I didn’t need to worry and could just brush on. 😅
Hi Nigel fantastic video re Mr Surfacer etc What about a product called Mr Disolve putty How I Does that work ?. Is it the same as Mr S ? As always fantastic videos so so informative !!!
it`s all very well if you make planes where you need to fill in seam lines after joining halves together, but as i make model CARS i don`t have that problem, so thanks for the vid but i`ll stick to ZERO PAINTS for my primers as they are thinned for airbrushing, but carry on the good work on your VIDS
I definitely have not had this experience. Every time I have used Zero primers.. 3 or 4 different types, it comes out gritty and that is after cleaning the model thoroughly, sanding extensively with 600 tamiya pads, mixing with a badger mixer and spraying an initial dust coat... This makes my paint coats (also Zero) full of marks and swirls and it looks like shit...Tamiya primer right from a can is endlessly smoother... I dont know, maybe I am doing something wrong but I am spraying with an Iwata HP-CS at 20psi between 6"-12" away.. Wish I could get good results but it has been a miserable experience...
@@NigelsModellingBenchhi Nigel. great video, very clear. can I ask a really stupid question. what does this do for a model. I thought it was a filler product, and I get the cast effect. but why spray it on plastic? it fills rivots etc and I understand that but I don't understand why you would add it to the surface of a kit Yiu are going to prime and paint anyway. many thanks. Will
44.41 is very clear about sprue goo versus filler versus Mr surfacer. I used sprue goo recently on a scratch built cabin for an mh-65 us coastguard. I built the scratch internal bodywork and used sprue glue behind the construction as reinforcer but it reacted with the evergreen plaster card and when dried it melted the card so messed up the front of my unit. sink marks you called them. everyday is a school day as they say, cheers. Will
Hello Nigel! New subscriber here. Enjoy your presentation 😁 which grade of your Mr. Surfacer would work best for light blocking? I'm lighting a 1/350 Titanic. Thanks or your insight!
I am a subscriber and I am very impressed with Mr. Surfacer and ordered a stockpile of it in all grits. I see that Mr. Surfacer 1000 is now being replaced by Mr.Primer Surfacer 1000 and I am wondering if you think it is the same or better. My GF likes to cross stitch while I work on my models and I have been following you on the Saturn V 1:144 build. We found out that there was a drinking game involving Mr. Surfacer so we joined in. We are from Canada so the phrase "wait for this to go off" is the same as "wait for this to dry" so we have added that to the game since it took a minute to figure out what you meant. I really enjoy your videos and have learned so much. I will continue to follow.
Any idea why the styrene got wrinkled after spraying a few layers of 1200 Mr Surfacer and after 24 hours another thin layers of lacquer paint? I have painted a car kit model, the main body came out good but the hood got wrinkled really bad. After striping down the paint I noticed that the styrene got melted into wrinkles not only the paint
It was the spray can variant but I think you’re right I sprayed too wet layer and the styrene used on this model was of a different density. Maybe I was just aiming for a smooth layer of primer (no orange peel) but this is a lesson for me: I rather spend some time buffering a rougher layer of primer than spending a lot more time on fixing a wrinkled plastic/styrene surface
@@gordongriffith9047 you can thin if you want to, or just straight from the bottle. It will thicken with age so you may want to thin it as it gets older?
Awesome video. Much appreciated! I always assumed that the material is dissolved plastic in a solvent. The different grades relates to different solutions, dilution percentages. Do you know what it is? Is T Extra thin comparable with it? Thx
It is not plastic dissolved in cement. I think it’s a putty dissolved in thinner. I’m sure the number refers to how thick it is. Higher number = thinner product.
@@NigelsModellingBench Tipped half a bottle of that in my lap,while working at bench!(bed).Gone off the smell for the moment.Had extractor face down on mattress with hosepipe perched on window ledge and two fans on for 12 hours.Copyright cockroaches,they buy a company after everyone has bought and used and shared music till everyone treats it as free,then send in the algorithm to glean the cash from others efforts.
Do Not! tell people that they don't need to clean their brushes well. Are you serious? People already do not clean their brushes well. You're just an excuse for them to not clean their brushes at all.
Why do you keep showing how to make cast texture on an aircraft?? Then you say how bad it is for filling rivets on aircrafts. WTF? Make up your mind. Dilution doesn't change how fine the pigments are. What's the point? I can add cast textures to my airplane? I'm sure you meant well but I'm left confused as hell. There's plenty of solvent based primers that will work as well for aircraft.
I’m using a scrap wing section from a model airplane so show a technique for cast texture. Did you not realise that?? Maybe you noticed your comment is the only negative one out of 50 here?
I watched this taking notes then watched it again taking more notes. I checked with my local hobby shop they do not carry Mr Hobbie. I got on line and placed a order and saved this viedo. The last time I built a model was before they reformulated the glue so kids would not inhale it.😳 That must have been some time in the 60's.
Excellent video which has answered a few of the questions I’ve had concerning the Mr. Surfacer products…thanks!👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
You probably killed that guy with the drinking game this time.
:- |
He's probably on his third liver by now ;) :D
I use 1500, new bottle thin 50/50 with leveling thinner and it corrects drips. This stuff is magic.
Thanks so much for taking the time for that review/walkthrough! I’m about to use Mr Surfacer for the first time so it was very helpful! 👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for this. Very informative. Just getting back into the hobby after a 40 year layoff. So much to learn! I wondered how to use this product.
Glad it was helpful!
@@NigelsModellingBench it really was.
love that you mix in the airbrush. a lot of people say don't do it, but i see no reason not to
if there has ever been a person in the world more pleased to fill a seam I dont know who it is
I'm sitting in my man cave right now, windows open to not faint of the smells and fumes this stuff emerges. I've used a lot on a Stormtrooper helmet. But it's so amazing! I was able to hide many botched spots with Mr. Surfacer and actually save the project. But good ventilation is a must!
Ventilation indeed. Mr levelling thinner highs 😂. Extractor on👍👍👍
I have been using the levelling thinner with tamiya lacquer and acrylic and am over the moon with the results, but I never realised surfacing and thinners were so versatile. Excellent videos Nigel, many thanks.
Thank you so much for this, I downloaded it on 3 devices 😁
I have a jar of Tamiya liquid surface primer I use for the same purpose. I’ve only used Mrsurfacer 1500 black for final prep. (Which is wonderful stuff🥰)
Great video I’ve finally stumbled upon. Cheers Nigel.
That was an absolute clinic on Mr Surfacer ! Good job Mate ! Cheers , Bill
Thank you Nigel. This video has convinced me to purchase some Mr. Surfacer.
Frank Tozier good man!!
Uncle Nigel! The best info on the ut-ube!
Lol I’m a lightweight with drinking so we drink when Nigel says flange 😂 keep up the good work Nigel love your video’s.
Fantastic Nigel really enjoyed that.
Great information on this product. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you Nigel. I recently heard of Mr surfacer and its related products. Prior to hearing of Mr Surfacer I used Tamya products religously. Thank you letting us know of other options
More like this please.
Hi Nigel, new to your channel, this video was quit informing. Getting bak into modeling after very long time away. Trying to learn all the materials and process. Promise I won't start drinking when you talk about Mr. Surfacer.
Magic mate! 👍🏻👌🏻🤜🏻🤛🏻🍻
Thanks for sharing mate till next time have a good one
I unsubscribed because several of my posts have not been replicated. Ok I am back you are a good person doing what you love, good at and I rely on that to move my hobby forward. Mr Surfacer you talk about it all the time, but I wanted to ask you for more details, here it is, youtube must be reading my mind, talk about chance, thank you
Posts not replicated???
hi Nige WOW im glad that I don't drink……...anyway ive just got into the world of this product and tried to use as primer lucky I tried on test model and the smell of it was over powering but im glued to this vid and its helping what about my snakes they are in my model room so opened all windows and they are still alive boy did I have a headache good videos mate keep up good work mate .
I understand that the number (500,1000, 1200 and 1500 ) refer to the grade of the pigment/solids in the surfacer. Similar to how the grade of grit on sandpaper is higher numbers for finer grit. I also have 1500 Black surfacing finisher in my arsenal of surfacers... I would not mix the pigment grades when thinning- have a separate jar of thinners for each grade (and colour) of Mr Surfacer. Label the lids with a Marker.for ease of use.
I'm really not that fussy Brett. I'll just carry on as i have been for years now.
Great tutorial on using Mr. Surfacer Nigel. I use it on the cast surfaces of armor and stipple it to give a textured surface. I even add real rust flakes whiles stippling to get a corroded look. To give proper honor to the bottles of Mr. Surfacer that have met their demise I took the liberty of making up an mage of those bottles that are no longer with us but have given their life willingly in the name of modeling. Please check your email and I hope you don’t take umbrage at my use of a little poetic license. Always look forward to your next videos.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Marvin Anthony instablaster ;)
@Anakin Winston thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Anakin Winston It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Marvin Anthony Happy to help xD
Nigel, thanks for this..... I should have got the 500 for my aplication not the 1000 however I'll just thin it as you suggested an use it as primer...and get a bottle of 500. For references my application is I need to fill gaps on plastic multiparty figures
Gunze rocks! I really like their products.
Yes, it does rock! But it's actually pronounced differently then how it's spelled. The correct pronunciation is "Goon"- "Zeh". Not like the English "Guns".
good video sir, greetings from Costa Rica
Thanks Nigel...Mr Surfacer 1000 is good for putting stippling detail on cast metal dumb bombs for aircraft
Shame you can't get sponsorship from Mr Surfacer Nige :)
Surprised you haven't got a Mr Hobby Procon Airbrush yet...
I bought the mr surfacer to try but can't use it as sets off every smoke alarm and carbon alarm in the house lol 😂 family go daft when I do so just stippling for me! Only happenes when it's airbrushed AKs filler primer does exactly the same it must be the pigment or dust that's to thick in the air and the alarms think it's a fire or a carbon leak! Can't be good for us when you think about it haha! I don't like it much to what I've experienced with but I'll keep trying new way's as just on bare plastic it seems to be to easy just to chip to easy or flake back through to the plastic when weathering or using AKs worn effects it's like it's just a painted surface without a primer
I like those red and yellow soft jaw clamps. Must be a UK purchase item, because I don’t see any here in the states.
Theyre just clothes pegs Bill
You have contaminated Mr Surfacer when it can't be re-thinned and stays gloppy. Also Mr. Dissolved Putty is for filling gaps and big seams. Mr. Surfacer is for smoothing surface scratches.
I recently came across your channel, I am hooked and subscribed. I just bing watched your C-141 build and wish I had seen it before I put mine together. I almost want to get another one and take some of your suggestions to the same problems I had. You are a great molder and impressed with your skills. Cheer from USA.
Awesome, thank you!
It be great to see around your work bench like grand tour fella
The 500 is fairly T H I C C
i've been using milliput thinned down with alcohol for filling seams
Mr Surfacer 500 for old kits like the 1/72 vulcan then :). Although of course lots of filler first.
1200 is my favorite flavour.Got the new Ryefield M4(a3e8) Sherman and some haribo,its very good all round.Halfway through build,its Universal carrier moulding quality,and a cross between takom/dragon in approach.Its on par with thier Panther kit in detail and complexity.Makes Tasca look medievel.Working track's are almost real in construction,look and behave really authentically.With PE inc its a perfect OOTB kit.4.4K???
If you are brushing it on as a primer do you need to wear a mask?
Or is it only if you are air brushing it?
I have to say, you should always wear a mask when using solvent based products, but I don't when brushing it.
@@NigelsModellingBench reason I got this product was as a primer once I found out you need to wear a mask when priming. As the only warning I had on the primer I used was “use in well ventilated area, avoid breathing in fumes getting in eyes or hands”. So assumed going outside would have been enough.
Then found out I should have also worse a mask, so I got this assuming I didn’t need to worry and could just brush on. 😅
Hi Nigel fantastic video re Mr Surfacer etc
What about a product called Mr Disolve putty
How I
Does that work ?.
Is it the same as Mr S ?
As always fantastic videos so so informative !!!
It's like thicker filler in all honesty. I prefer mr surfacer, but that's just my opinion.
it`s all very well if you make planes where you need to fill in seam lines after joining halves together, but as i make model CARS i don`t have that problem, so thanks for the vid but i`ll stick to ZERO PAINTS for my primers as they are thinned for airbrushing, but carry on the good work on your VIDS
I definitely have not had this experience. Every time I have used Zero primers.. 3 or 4 different types, it comes out gritty and that is after cleaning the model thoroughly, sanding extensively with 600 tamiya pads, mixing with a badger mixer and spraying an initial dust coat... This makes my paint coats (also Zero) full of marks and swirls and it looks like shit...Tamiya primer right from a can is endlessly smoother... I dont know, maybe I am doing something wrong but I am spraying with an Iwata HP-CS at 20psi between 6"-12" away.. Wish I could get good results but it has been a miserable experience...
@@garethmurphy8235 Spraying at 6-12 inches is your problem, that is way too far away. It's drying in the air before hitting the surface.
Is there any benefit of tinting it to the colour you will using? If so will Vallejo or Tamiya paint work. As always a great upload
Life In Serenity hi Rob. You could tint it with mr hobby or Tamiya. I wouldn’t even bother trying Vallejo. It’ll probably make cottage cheese.
hi.i am watching your airfix seaking vids and i ended up here. is mr surfacer basically the same as spue goo?? cheers Will
No Will.. it's more like a thick paint.
@@NigelsModellingBenchhi Nigel. great video, very clear. can I ask a really stupid question. what does this do for a model. I thought it was a filler product, and I get the cast effect. but why spray it on plastic? it fills rivots etc and I understand that but I don't understand why you would add it to the surface of a kit Yiu are going to prime and paint anyway. many thanks. Will
It is the primer Will.
44.41 is very clear about sprue goo versus filler versus Mr surfacer. I used sprue goo recently on a scratch built cabin for an mh-65 us coastguard. I built the scratch internal bodywork and used sprue glue behind the construction as reinforcer but it reacted with the evergreen plaster card and when dried it melted the card so messed up the front of my unit. sink marks you called them. everyday is a school day as they say, cheers. Will
I thought I was the only one who had trouble with Vallejo cellulose primers. It comes right off terrible rubbish. Mr hobby rules
Hello Nigel! New subscriber here. Enjoy your presentation 😁 which grade of your Mr. Surfacer would work best for light blocking? I'm lighting a 1/350 Titanic. Thanks or your insight!
I am a subscriber and I am very impressed with Mr. Surfacer and ordered a stockpile of it in all grits. I see that Mr. Surfacer 1000 is now being replaced by Mr.Primer Surfacer 1000 and I am wondering if you think it is the same or better. My GF likes to cross stitch while I work on my models and I have been following you on the Saturn V 1:144 build. We found out that there was a drinking game involving Mr. Surfacer so we joined in. We are from Canada so the phrase "wait for this to go off" is the same as "wait for this to dry" so we have added that to the game since it took a minute to figure out what you meant. I really enjoy your videos and have learned so much. I will continue to follow.
Could the 1200 or 500 be used to fill in minor grooves in 1/35 scale figures? Such as when you carve away straps or incorrect details? Much thanks!
Acetone and methyl ethyl ketone are good thinners as well.
And they both attack styrene?
@@NigelsModellingBench When the Surfacer thickens, I dip the paintbrush in MEK and then in the putty to soften it enough to spread it without problem.
Btw, I love the stuff as well and enjoyed your video.
Is the 'grain' of the filler medium finer on the 1200 compared to 1000 and 500
The higher the number, the finer the grain. 1500 is the finest I’ve found; available in black, grey and brown - possibly white too.
Any idea why the styrene got wrinkled after spraying a few layers of 1200 Mr Surfacer and after 24 hours another thin layers of lacquer paint? I have painted a car kit model, the main body came out good but the hood got wrinkled really bad. After striping down the paint I noticed that the styrene got melted into wrinkles not only the paint
No idea at all?? What thinners did you use? Sounds like you had cellulose thinners applied very wet?
It was the spray can variant but I think you’re right I sprayed too wet layer and the styrene used on this model was of a different density. Maybe I was just aiming for a smooth layer of primer (no orange peel) but this is a lesson for me: I rather spend some time buffering a rougher layer of primer than spending a lot more time on fixing a wrinkled plastic/styrene surface
Hello, Nigel. New subscriber here. What is the brand of your sprue cutter?
They are Tamiya buddy.
@@NigelsModellingBench Thank you.
I have Mr surfacer Black 1500 I like to know if I can use it with handbrush and what kind of thinner do I need to use
You can brush it or thin it with mr colour levelling thinner for spraying.
So if I use a handbrush so I need to Thinner it's because I have mr thinner 400
@@gordongriffith9047 you can thin if you want to, or just straight from the bottle. It will thicken with age so you may want to thin it as it gets older?
Awesome video. Much appreciated! I always assumed that the material is dissolved plastic in a solvent. The different grades relates to different solutions, dilution percentages. Do you know what it is? Is T Extra thin comparable with it? Thx
It is not plastic dissolved in cement. I think it’s a putty dissolved in thinner. I’m sure the number refers to how thick it is. Higher number = thinner product.
A majority of the Gundam builders use Mr surfacer as their primary primer. Seems like a lot of military and car modelers use this stuff as filler
If you watch my Lancaster build you'll see i use it as a primer on there.. in fact I have bottles pre-thinned for use as primer.
I wish you would explain what these are used for. Can I use this for doll repaints?
They are surface finishers, or primers.
Hey Nigel, is that glue holder "home" made? Love to get one.
Yes, it's just packing foam.
Hi Nigel. Which MR Surfacer is best for covering scratches made by deepening panel lines. Like when the tool jumps out. Cheers
I use 1000 for pretty much everything
could it be stored in dropper bottles ? or is it too thick in your opinion ?
I would say it's too thick, but maybe the 1200 would work?
Tried to thin this stuff 1/1.5 thinner and it clogged my brush immediately
Then thin it some more??
PLEASE CAN YOU PUT WHAT YOU ARE USING
The dog barked just as you said what to thin it with
WHY ARE YOU SHOUTING!!!!! YOU CAN THIN IT WITH MCLT!!!!!!!!!!!
what is MCLT please
Mr Colour Levelling Thinner
Is this not just sprue goo?
No, it is paint.
Crazy Gamer sent me
arent they primers 🤔
Yes but they have many uses.
My 1200 looks like your 500.Too much cast texturing with lid off.Don’t put open bottles near a fan,or you won’t be able to break skin with a brush.
Thin it with some levelling thinners Darron.
@@NigelsModellingBench Tipped half a bottle of that in my lap,while working at bench!(bed).Gone off the smell for the moment.Had extractor face down on mattress with hosepipe perched on window ledge and two fans on for 12 hours.Copyright cockroaches,they buy a company after everyone has bought and used and shared music till everyone treats it as free,then send in the algorithm to glean the cash from others efforts.
sadly with the resolution of this video you can't see ANYTHING of the surface work you're talking about. kinda defeats the point
Do Not! tell people that they don't need to clean their brushes well. Are you serious? People already do not clean their brushes well. You're just an excuse for them to not clean their brushes at all.
Why do you keep showing how to make cast texture on an aircraft?? Then you say how bad it is for filling rivets on aircrafts. WTF? Make up your mind. Dilution doesn't change how fine the pigments are. What's the point? I can add cast textures to my airplane? I'm sure you meant well but I'm left confused as hell. There's plenty of solvent based primers that will work as well for aircraft.
I’m using a scrap wing section from a model airplane so show a technique for cast texture. Did you not realise that?? Maybe you noticed your comment is the only negative one out of 50 here?
@@NigelsModellingBench That stippling will be great texture for concrete or even tarmac.