Always enjoyed your Mx5 mk1 videos Rob - don’t lose faith in the old girl mate , I have a 1991 mk 1 in classic red ! , we have been together for the last 19 years ❤👍
Hi Rob, I always blamed rust for the black contaminants due to the steel lines being subjected to water in the brake & clutch systems. Rust is usually black in a dark environment. I was in heavy industry for 40 years and witnessed this blackening on a regular basis. It was so bad that you had to wear ppe or you took the black gunge home with you.very similar to central heating flushing.ps another great video Rob. Thanks.
I have a 2002 1.8 svt Sport which I've owned from new. Every two years I pump oil into the body cavities, cills and the chassis rails. Unused engine oil creeps into seams and creeps upwards too. It's much better than Waxoyl and the like. I wouldn't bother about scraping back and re-painting the two areas in the wheel arches you showed in the video where you have a little rust. Any oil you spray into the body cavity behind the plastic liner behind the seats and behind the boot liner will seep out eventually into those areas and provide much better long term protection. My car has no rust at all on it as a result and has consequently never had to have any welded repairs which is unusual for a Mk2.5.
Yes, oil can make a good protector like that. 👍 The internal spaces on mine already have a cavity protection product which is oil based and works as you describe. Best decision I made was to have that and the underseal done as soon as I got the car after import. The rust on the bottom of the arch is only surface, where some stone chips have clipped the paintwork, so the repair is mostly just aesthetic really. Otherwise the car is still totally rust free after nearly 10 years in the country.
I bought a cheap slave cylinder as well and it only lasted a year before it failed. Ended up getting an official Mazda part one and so far touch wood it’s been alright.
Always enjoyed your Mx5 mk1 videos Rob - don’t lose faith in the old girl mate , I have a 1991 mk 1 in classic red ! , we have been together for the last 19 years ❤👍
Absolutely! I could never give up on little Max! Still runs really well for a 32-year-old after all. Congrats on 19 years! Will be 10 for me next year
Hi Rob, I always blamed rust for the black contaminants due to the steel lines being subjected to water in the brake & clutch systems. Rust is usually black in a dark environment. I was in heavy industry for 40 years and witnessed this blackening on a regular basis. It was so bad that you had to wear ppe or you took the black gunge home with you.very similar to central heating flushing.ps another great video Rob. Thanks.
Interesting insight, thanks! Definitely a possibility although now that I've replaced the master cylinder the issue seems to have resolved. We'll see!
I have a 2002 1.8 svt Sport which I've owned from new. Every two years I pump oil into the body cavities, cills and the chassis rails. Unused engine oil creeps into seams and creeps upwards too. It's much better than Waxoyl and the like. I wouldn't bother about scraping back and re-painting the two areas in the wheel arches you showed in the video where you have a little rust. Any oil you spray into the body cavity behind the plastic liner behind the seats and behind the boot liner will seep out eventually into those areas and provide much better long term protection. My car has no rust at all on it as a result and has consequently never had to have any welded repairs which is unusual for a Mk2.5.
PS: good video BTW
Yes, oil can make a good protector like that. 👍 The internal spaces on mine already have a cavity protection product which is oil based and works as you describe. Best decision I made was to have that and the underseal done as soon as I got the car after import. The rust on the bottom of the arch is only surface, where some stone chips have clipped the paintwork, so the repair is mostly just aesthetic really. Otherwise the car is still totally rust free after nearly 10 years in the country.
I bought a cheap slave cylinder as well and it only lasted a year before it failed. Ended up getting an official Mazda part one and so far touch wood it’s been alright.
Yeah, won't make that mistake again 😀 Got a new OEM one now, just need some time to pop it on
Nice work bud. Enjoying your content.
Thanks! 😊