'I don't think anyone will see it, but I like to clean it up real nice anyway.' (Paraphrased) that right there tells me you're a true craftsman, and I'll be going through all your videos. Thank you for this treasure trove of knowledge.
Glenn….I’ve only gotten into the fountain pen hobby for 7 yrs or so now, but I’m starting to get the itch for a vintage Parker 51. Your video is amazing. LOVE how you had us viewers go through the process fresh, with us coming upon issues just as you did. And having to repeat the hot bath 3 times was brilliant. Before going through that, your commentary mentioned having to sometimes do that 5 or 6 times. Your were relatively lucky (lol). Also I loved how finding a cracked piece toward the end of the video required you to replace it, even though you admitted it could probably have functioned without doing so. The only thing that gave me pause was the use of the dental pik around the thread or anywhere near the inside of the metal ring. To me, it seemed like you had enough great chemical products to enable you to avoid the deadly pik. Again, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience in such a perfectly paced video. SO much info I honestly DON’T know how it could have been shorter! Kudos my friend! 👍
Thanks for the kind words. That 51 lucite is so hard it can stand easy use of a pick to clear the threads. Must make sure not to alter the thread pattern though. I've got some custom made thread chasers for other parts of the pen.
I repair most of my own possessions because most repair services are so bad. If I want my pens broken, I can do it myself without expensive shipping and long waits! But I will happily send my pens to you for repair. I have some that are beyond my competence level. I am impressed with your feel for the materials and tools, and your attention to details. Thank you for this video.
I have a couple of vintage Chinese 51 clones and this video helped me service them and get them back to perfect shape. Even though I don't have a real 51, this helped me a lot, so thank you.
You are more than welcome my friend. Thanks for your comments. Those Chinese clones are nice to tinker around with. When I do restoration work for customers, sometimes I'll throw in one of those as a surprise bonus. Unfortunately, I can't do it every time though. Thanks again.
Your video helped me disassemble 2 "51"s and 5 "21"s for restoration and all were a success. I did learn one thing along the way due to a mistake on my part. I lost track of a pen I had soaking and left it in too long and probably compounded the problem with overly heated water. The result was a black hood that turned grey around the nib area and up about 1/3. I was able to return the hood to black by diligently using a complete set of micromesh to resurface and buff out the discoloration. Worked perfectly. So if you find the heat has caused discoloration, you can restore.
hello, congratulations on your work and for sharing your experience with us. I have achieved excellent results by placing thread sealant tape between the ring and the shell. This tape is very thin and does not damage the shell. I make 4 to 5 turns on the thread and then insert the shell. I haven't had an ink leak. The advantage of the thread sealant tape is that the shell does not stick to the thread and is much easier to remove when needed. Greetings from Brazil.
Jose, thanks for the comment. Although a lot of people do that, it's not the recommended fix. You are correct that the shell is easier to remove. Next time try it with fewer turns and see if you get the same results but with less pressure on the shell. Another interesting thought - if you have a 51 that contains an O'ring between the shell and clutch ring you might not need the tape at all. If your 51 doesn't contain a O'ring, don't add one. It will crack the shell or barrel. Best case though is to get some shellac from the paint store. It will soften at around 140 degrees F. I use hot water in the video but I would recommend dry heat, like a hair dryer or similar. If you use hot water on most other pens (including newer 51s) you'll quickly ruin it forever. On dry heat, if the air flow is too hot for your fingers, it too hot for the pen. Keep your fingers in the air flow at all times. Some will use a heat gun from an arts and craft store, but those typically have two settings: too hot and scorching. I have a heat gun that I can set in 5 degree increments. Be careful and great success in your repairs. Take care in Brazil...
Found the video educational and interesting. I like your style and how you clearly demonstrate what the issues are and what needs to be done. Fantastic!
I know this video is a couple years old, but I just came across it (bought my first Parker 51 today). This is a fantastic video and I appreciate your willingness to show the full process, which along with your commentary, is invaluable--thank you!
Thank you for posting! I found a parker 51 from 1959 third quarter at a flee market and it was only $5! It was not working at all and a regular flush was not enough. After following your guide (and an assembly guide) I got the pen working like new again! Such a bargain!!! :D
Excellent, helpful and very timely as I have the identical model (same colour and cap combo) awaiting a home service. I've done vac 51s but never an aero version. Nicely presented too. Looking forward to seeing more videos.
Thanks so much for sharing. Looking forward to cleaning up my grandma's old Parker 51 Special with these techniques. Not sure how thoroughly I want to restore it. It's tough deciding whether I want to show reverence for it by leaving the aesthetics as they are or by making it what it once was. In a way, they're both care.
Julian, thanks for your comment. Aesthetics can be what you want them to be. On the 51 it's easier to decide. In other words, you can have both, Most of the 51s clean up just like they once were, but keep their reverence. Where folks get into dilemmas is with old, black hard rubber pens. Many of them turn brown with oxidation over the decades. There's always the debate as to whether to "re-blacken" the pen or not. Most people tend to restore them to working condition, but leave the barrel as is. Kindest regards.
Fantastic video, thank you. I have just come across a 'black with gold cap, Made in England .6 on the barrel'. Pretty scratched but I feel confident to work my way through it now.
That was an incredible, well thought out out, and nicely performed video! It's not very often that I see a video that goes from start to finish including all the rough spots like when the pen does not want to come aapart.....we need to see those things as we run into them also!.........MIke Smukula aka ChiTown
What a great, informative video! Using your techniques, I took apart my Parker Super 21, cleaned it, and sealed it back up. Hopefully after the shellac sets and I ink it, it will have much better ink flow.
Thanks for the video! I recently took an interest in this wonderful classic design and jumped off the deep end with an ebay purchase of a black one with a dented cap. So far i have it torn down, only bad part in it is the breather, which i have managed to fabricate a replacement out of medical grade stainless hypodermic tubing. waiting on an order of replacement ink sacks to put it all back into working order. old one looks decent, but i sorta hate to do all the work and just put a who knows how old ink sack back into service. as i fully intend to put this pen into daily carry service. Its condition is nice, but its not great. so no sense babying it. cheers!
Excellent video! Illustrates the differences between a thorough, professional restoration and the kludged hack job mistakenly called "restoration" by some of the less skilled, or less knowledgeable, vendors.
Great video! Thanks. I got a Parker 51 in great condition but it doesn't write too well. It's a fine nib but it writes very dry and sometimes skips. I guess I will have to take it apart to see what's wrong. Now I know how to. Thanks.
UPDATE: today I got this pen writing really great!!.. Fortunately I didn't have to take it apart, all it took was to part the times slightly. Now it writes with decent wetness.
That is awesome. Nib tuning is definitely an art. Another thing you can try is to "heat set" the nib/feed. Feeds in Parkers and many other vintage pens is made from ebonite, or hard rubber. To heat set a nib/feed, submerse the nib/feed in hot water (180 Fahrenheit or LESS) for a couple of minutes and then with your fingers, press and hold the nib and feed together for a couple of minutes until it cools. Many times this will improve flow as natural rubber will return to its normal shape when heated.
Many thanks for sharing your experience and tips of the trade. With telescope lenses the super fine optical adjustment is called "figuring". Do you have any lessons on nib adjustment and ink flow control?
Thanks for this great P51 How-To, Glenn. I just this week scored my 1st 51 -- a 4th Qtr 1948 Teal Aerometric Pen/Pencil set -- & finding it didn't come apart like most pens I'm familiar with; so I came looking. Found this video & taught me what to expect. Good stuff! I was impressed by by the amount of grime you were lifting off the barrel & section! I'd like to ask, what's the (1) Cleaning, &(2) Polishing compounds you use?
This is the 1 micron abrasive I use primarily micro-surface.com/product/micro-gloss-liquid-abrasive-type-1-cleaner-polish/ I also use a slightly more aggressive version if necessary micro-surface.com/product/type-ii-cleaner-micro-gloss-5/ and then follow with their micro finish micro-surface.com/product/micro-finish-polish/
Can you do a repair video for the Parker 51 mechanical twist pencil? I'm having a problem pulling apart the mechanism inside. The plastic piece comes off fairly easy, but the brass piece inside the chrome tube is really on there. The problem I'm having is it won't feed the lead. I bought it used. I found a broken safety pin stuck inside. I got that out, but it still will not feed the lead. The cylinder is clean. You can see sun light through it.
HI, i have Caran D'Ache Silver-Plated, Rhodium-Coated LÉMAN EBONY BLACK Fountain Pen, pen was falling on glass and strached untill brass. I see metal, how can I repare this? Do I need a lacquer and which type because I cant just polish this spot? In description says "Round brass body and cap lacquered in deep black" Thank you Jovan
I do have a vintage Parker 51 given by my grandfather and it had not sucked ink for almost 7 decades. I don't know what color of Parker ink does usually sucked by this Pen. Can I use any color of Parker ink and give it a try?
Do you where I can find a replacement for the sac mine looks like a corkscrew. It was my Dad’s and i would love to us it!! Also do you do the repairs for other people? And if you do, how much would it be?
what can i use to replace the breathertube? i have a parker 51 that the breathertube was replaced in the past for one with the half of the length... i bought it in that state.
Hi Franco, thanks for your question. If it's an Aerometric I use the replacement stainless steel tubing shown here. www.vintagepens.com/catill_nibs_parts.shtml If it's a Vacumatic I use the teflon tubing shown on this page. www.vintagepens.com/catill_tools_supplies.shtml Remember that if it's a Vacumatic that you can't use a breather tube length that interferes with the Vacumatic diaphragm when the plunger is fully depressed into the pen. If it's an Aerometric and there is a piece of the original sterling silver breather that remains in the feed, use a 00-90 tap to remove it. Sometimes the sterling silver ones will deterioriate and snap off where the tube enters the feed. Not all Aeros had a sterling silver breather tube. Thanks.
Have you figured out how. to disassemble a new Parker 51 (2021 model)? I purchased a plum 2021 Parker 51 with an 18kt gold medium nib and it skips, hard starts and has quite a bit of feedback. No where near as smooth or wet as my two vintage 1960’s-era Parker 51’s.
Abel, thanks for the question. Mostly I get them off EBay, either the parts themselves, or pens that are irreparable in some way but have certain parts that are usable. We call these "part pens." I also have developed contacts around the world of pen enthusiasts, collectors and the like, mostly in Europe and South America. Occasionally, I run across and entire collection of pens, some that can be restored fully and others that amount to part pens. Best....
@@abelzalcberg8451 The typical restoration is $50 plus return shipping. Parts needed or specialty work is not included in the basic price. See the site at www.triumphvintagepens.com for more. Thanks for the question.
I have a parker 51 my mom gave me but the pastic part that has the silver ring broke on the bottom :/ do you know if I can get that piece somewhere ? :(
This is not the exact same the but very similar and will work. www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/con-tact-grip-ultra-non-adhesive-18-inch-x-120-inch-shelf-liner-in-grey/5632145?keyword=drawer+liner
Thank you so much for the most explicit and down to detail video,produced so far. Up to now I hesitated to start restoring my first, from -66. Have you been able to get all your cleaning and spares in one place?
Aside from a gold nib v stainless steel nib, and possibly the plastics used, how does the 51 differ from the lower cost 21? Edit: Why not use the sonic cleaner to clean the hood section inside and out? If there's dried ink in the threads, isn't there dried ink farther in? Would the sonic cleaner overheat the hood plastic? I'd be afraid of messing up the threads ising a dental pick. Edit 2: If you wanted to be able to remove the hood for cleaning the nib and feed without having to mess with the hot water soak to get the hood off, would a thin coat of silicon grease on the threads work as well as the shellac "to prevent leaks and other bad things"? Question: I know the 51 and 21 came with a "firm" no flex nib. If a person wanted a flex nib, would a Zebra "G" nib fit the feed and collector?
Not much difference between 51 and 21 cosmetically. 21 is a lesser quality build and uses a different plastic. YOU CANNOT USE WET HEAT ON A PARKER 21. I will melt the plastic. I do use the sonic cleaner on the hood. But a qtip is used for a better removal of ink. Some 51s have an oring inside the hood near the top where it screws on to the pen body. These you don't need to use shellac. You could try silicone grease. The reason the pros use shellac is to keep curious minds from opening the pen. Creates a lot of headaches. Haven't tried the zebra nib.
Great video really helped repair my wife's Parker 51 misaligned collector. Goodness knows how that happened! . What mix of shellac do you use ? What's it thinned with and is there any oil in it ?
Glad you got your wife's pen fixed up. I typically buy shellac from commercial vendors in small quantities because a little bit goes a long way. If you're in the States, you can also get it at the big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.). Shellac is typically made, or thinned, with denatured alcohol and contains no oil (as in petroleum products) that I am aware of.
+John Kreutz John, Thanks for your kind comments on the video. The later 21s and the 21 Supers are very similar to the 51. Depending on the version you have, some will have tubular nib like the 51. One of the key differences to note is that the 21 is made out polystyrene and NOT lucite like the 51's. I would not put the 21 in hot water because it might discolor the plastic. The 21s are particularly noted for cracking at the hood and barrel, on either side of the clutch ring. For more info, check these links out: Glenn www.parkercollector.com/parker21.html www.richardspens.com/?page=ref/profiles/21.htm www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/154364-ode-to-the-lowly-parker-21/ www.peytonstreetpens.com/parker-super-21-fountain-pen-new-old-stock-fine-and-extra-fine.html dirck.delint.ca/beta/?page_id=1881 www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/286644-parker-21-questions/?hl=%22parker+21%22 www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/273878-first-newbie-catastrophe-parker-21/?hl=%22parker+21%22 www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/265787-parker-21-aerometric-filler-removal/?hl=%22parker+21%22 www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search§ion=search&do=search&fromsearch=1
Awesome video! I have a question for you; so I have a Parker 51 which I believe is an original. It has the blue diamond on the insignia which means it has a lifetime warranty. If I were to contact Parker Pens, do you think they would refurbish it for me or anything? Tell me what you think!
Kerig, that sounds like an awesome pen! Unfortunately, even though the blue diamond does indicate a lifetime warranty, Parker doesn't work on these old pens anymore. My how times have changed. Best of luck! Thanks for the comment.
I got a Parker 51 vacumatic from my grandmother and i would love to get it working. I was wondering if you could restore my Parker 51 for me. (I would pay you if that is the case i would just love to get it working again. The pen means so much to me. If you wold restore it for me it would mean the world to me. (please reply to tell me if you could or not)
Thanks for a most excellent video! I own two P51's from 1948. Is it recommended to simply flush them out with water until they run clear then let them dry for a few days? I am not sure I'm confident enough to do a complete restoration. Thanks!
I hope this isn't too much trouble, but is there a list somewhere that details all of the tools you used in this video/that you would need if you want to take on the challenge of restoring one of these pens?
I got a Parker 51 vacumatic from my grandmother and i would love to get it working. I was wondering if you could restore my Parker 51 for me. (I would pay you if that is the case i would just love to get it working again. The pen means so much to me. If you wold restore it for me it would mean the world to me. (please reply to tell me if you could or not) thank you -Ethan whitmer
Whose cat is that? Good grief. If that isn't its personality being displayed, the critter needs to be spayed or neutered. You seemed obliviously 'in the pen repair zone', so I'm guessing it's either a neighbor's kitty -- although it sounded quite nearby -- or maybe it's yours, but you aren't the 'cat person' in the house. I watched the video for the appropriate reasons, and I liked it, but that distraction was bothersome. I have a landlord who's a douchebag, trying to evict me for having a momma kitty and her six young'uns in my apartment after rescuing them. I'm just acutely aware of the problem of unwanted and unnecessary growth of feral cat populations due to indiscriminate, ignorant and careless 'owners'. Just sayin'. Great work, with fine attention to detail. I'll use a vintage fountain pen for writing to relevant authorities with my concerns about feral cat populations. ; ]
![[19] Restoration: Sheaffer's Touchdown Saratoga (1950's)](/img/n.gif)
'I don't think anyone will see it, but I like to clean it up real nice anyway.' (Paraphrased) that right there tells me you're a true craftsman, and I'll be going through all your videos. Thank you for this treasure trove of knowledge.
Sharon, thank you very much. I need to get some more content up. Too many ideas, not enough time. I restored 5 pens this weekend!
Thanks for sharing. Using your excellent guide, I successfully fully restored my late father's Parker 51 Aerometric to superb condition.
Ian, that's awesome. Enjoy!
Glenn….I’ve only gotten into the fountain pen hobby for 7 yrs or so now, but I’m starting to get the itch for a vintage Parker 51. Your video is amazing. LOVE how you had us viewers go through the process fresh, with us coming upon issues just as you did. And having to repeat the hot bath 3 times was brilliant. Before going through that, your commentary mentioned having to sometimes do that 5 or 6 times. Your were relatively lucky (lol). Also I loved how finding a cracked piece toward the end of the video required you to replace it, even though you admitted it could probably have functioned without doing so.
The only thing that gave me pause was the use of the dental pik around the thread or anywhere near the inside of the metal ring. To me, it seemed like you had enough great chemical products to enable you to avoid the deadly pik.
Again, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience in such a perfectly paced video. SO much info I honestly DON’T know how it could have been shorter! Kudos my friend! 👍
Thanks for the kind words. That 51 lucite is so hard it can stand easy use of a pick to clear the threads. Must make sure not to alter the thread pattern though. I've got some custom made thread chasers for other parts of the pen.
I repair most of my own possessions because most repair services are so bad. If I want my pens broken, I can do it myself without expensive shipping and long waits! But I will happily send my pens to you for repair. I have some that are beyond my competence level. I am impressed with your feel for the materials and tools, and your attention to details. Thank you for this video.
Thank you very much, Clive. Best...
I have a couple of vintage Chinese 51 clones and this video helped me service them and get them back to perfect shape. Even though I don't have a real 51, this helped me a lot, so thank you.
Much appreciate the kind comments. Thank you and glad the video was helpful.
You are more than welcome my friend. Thanks for your comments. Those Chinese clones are nice to tinker around with. When I do restoration work for customers, sometimes I'll throw in one of those as a surprise bonus. Unfortunately, I can't do it every time though. Thanks again.
Best restoration advice on the web. Helped a lot with my blue Industria Argentina blue 51. Thank you very much, Saludos desde Argentina.
Grandmias Pen has been doing this on YT for at least 5 years. Just FYI. I gave yours a thumbs UP.
I have watched and learned a lot from his videos and techniques. Thanks for the thumbs up - much appreciated.
Great job and very meticulous restoration. Many thanks for showing how to separate the connector and replace the sac.
More than welcome, friend.
Your video helped me disassemble 2 "51"s and 5 "21"s for restoration and all were a success. I did learn one thing along the way due to a mistake on my part. I lost track of a pen I had soaking and left it in too long and probably compounded the problem with overly heated water. The result was a black hood that turned grey around the nib area and up about 1/3. I was able to return the hood to black by diligently using a complete set of micromesh to resurface and buff out the discoloration. Worked perfectly. So if you find the heat has caused discoloration, you can restore.
Thanks for the update on your success. Sorry for my terribly late reply.
Dude! Your a rock start! Thanks!! That was outstanding.
You are too kind my friend. Glad you enjoyed it!
hello, congratulations on your work and for sharing your experience with us. I have achieved excellent results by placing thread sealant tape between the ring and the shell. This tape is very thin and does not damage the shell. I make 4 to 5 turns on the thread and then insert the shell. I haven't had an ink leak. The advantage of the thread sealant tape is that the shell does not stick to the thread and is much easier to remove when needed. Greetings from Brazil.
Jose, thanks for the comment. Although a lot of people do that, it's not the recommended fix. You are correct that the shell is easier to remove. Next time try it with fewer turns and see if you get the same results but with less pressure on the shell. Another interesting thought - if you have a 51 that contains an O'ring between the shell and clutch ring you might not need the tape at all. If your 51 doesn't contain a O'ring, don't add one. It will crack the shell or barrel. Best case though is to get some shellac from the paint store. It will soften at around 140 degrees F. I use hot water in the video but I would recommend dry heat, like a hair dryer or similar. If you use hot water on most other pens (including newer 51s) you'll quickly ruin it forever. On dry heat, if the air flow is too hot for your fingers, it too hot for the pen. Keep your fingers in the air flow at all times. Some will use a heat gun from an arts and craft store, but those typically have two settings: too hot and scorching. I have a heat gun that I can set in 5 degree increments. Be careful and great success in your repairs. Take care in Brazil...
Found the video educational and interesting. I like your style and how you clearly demonstrate what the issues are and what needs to be done. Fantastic!
Your comment is very much appreciated, thank you. Sorry so late in my reply.
Thanks a lot for your great video. Parker 51 Aerometric is my favourite fountain pen.
Parker 51s are truly great pens. Thanks for your kind comment.
Thanks to your excellent video I was able to repair my uncle's beloved Parker 51 (the breather tube was clogged up). Thank you very much!!!
That's awesome. Thanks.
Thanks for the comments and great news on the pen.
I know this video is a couple years old, but I just came across it (bought my first Parker 51 today). This is a fantastic video and I appreciate your willingness to show the full process, which along with your commentary, is invaluable--thank you!
Najeeb, appreciate your comments and you're welcome.
You're more than welcome my friend. Carry on.
Thank you for posting! I found a parker 51 from 1959 third quarter at a flee market and it was only $5! It was not working at all and a regular flush was not enough. After following your guide (and an assembly guide) I got the pen working like new again! Such a bargain!!! :D
$5 might be the steal of the century! Thanks for your comment and I'm glad you got your pen working.
Excellent, helpful and very timely as I have the identical model (same colour and cap combo) awaiting a home service. I've done vac 51s but never an aero version. Nicely presented too. Looking forward to seeing more videos.
Mr Bob's Builds Thanks for your kind comments. To me at least, the Aerometrics are much easier than the Vacumatics.
Thank you for your comments. If you've done vacs, the aeros will be easier. Sorry for the ancient reply.
This is a thorough work! thanks.
Thanks so much for sharing. Looking forward to cleaning up my grandma's old Parker 51 Special with these techniques. Not sure how thoroughly I want to restore it. It's tough deciding whether I want to show reverence for it by leaving the aesthetics as they are or by making it what it once was. In a way, they're both care.
Julian, thanks for your comment. Aesthetics can be what you want them to be. On the 51 it's easier to decide. In other words, you can have both, Most of the 51s clean up just like they once were, but keep their reverence. Where folks get into dilemmas is with old, black hard rubber pens. Many of them turn brown with oxidation over the decades. There's always the debate as to whether to "re-blacken" the pen or not. Most people tend to restore them to working condition, but leave the barrel as is. Kindest regards.
Fantastic video, thank you. I have just come across a 'black with gold cap, Made in England .6 on the barrel'. Pretty scratched but I feel confident to work my way through it now.
You're welcome and thanks for your comments. Doing it yourself is such an awesome outcome and accomplishment. Let us know how it works out.
Nice! I can see everything perfectly.
I wonder if one could use the correct size tap to clean the threads on the shell.
That was an incredible, well thought out out, and nicely performed video! It's not very often that I see a video that goes from start to finish including all the rough spots like when the pen does not want to come aapart.....we need to see those things as we run into them also!.........MIke Smukula aka ChiTown
Very good video, give me a lot of information and ways to service my 1951 51 Special. Thanks
What a great, informative video! Using your techniques, I took apart my Parker Super 21, cleaned it, and sealed it back up. Hopefully after the shellac sets and I ink it, it will have much better ink flow.
Thanks for your kind comments. Be careful using hot water. I limit it to the Parker 51s only. Cheers and thanks again. Let me know how it goes.
Great video. You do fine work.
Thanks for the video! I recently took an interest in this wonderful classic design and jumped off the deep end with an ebay purchase of a black one with a dented cap. So far i have it torn down, only bad part in it is the breather, which i have managed to fabricate a replacement out of medical grade stainless hypodermic tubing. waiting on an order of replacement ink sacks to put it all back into working order. old one looks decent, but i sorta hate to do all the work and just put a who knows how old ink sack back into service. as i fully intend to put this pen into daily carry service. Its condition is nice, but its not great. so no sense babying it. cheers!
Very interesting and unique fabrication of a new breather tube. Thanks for your comments.
Thank you, my pen didn't want to pull almost any ink into the sack and kept leaking around the grip section. All fixed now.
That's awesome and I appreciate your kind comments. Glad you got the leaking fixed.
Excellent video! Illustrates the differences between a thorough, professional restoration and the kludged hack job mistakenly called "restoration" by some of the less skilled, or less knowledgeable, vendors.
Thank you very much and you are correct. We need to show how it's done correctly to keep integrity in our hobby.
Thank you Uncle Triumph.
Ha, you're welcome.
You're welcome. Uncle Triumph - I laughed out loud!
Thanks so much. Especially not glossing over how long it can take to remove the hood. 😀
👍
Thank you for your replies. Do you have a video on restoring a Parker 51 pencil?
Great video! Thanks. I got a Parker 51 in great condition but it doesn't write too well. It's a fine nib but it writes very dry and sometimes skips. I guess I will have to take it apart to see what's wrong. Now I know how to. Thanks.
UPDATE: today I got this pen writing really great!!.. Fortunately I didn't have to take it apart, all it took was to part the times slightly. Now it writes with decent wetness.
That is awesome. Nib tuning is definitely an art. Another thing you can try is to "heat set" the nib/feed. Feeds in Parkers and many other vintage pens is made from ebonite, or hard rubber.
To heat set a nib/feed, submerse the nib/feed in hot water (180 Fahrenheit or LESS) for a couple of minutes and then with your fingers, press and hold the nib and feed together for a couple of minutes until it cools. Many times this will improve flow as natural rubber will return to its normal shape when heated.
Many thanks for sharing your experience and tips of the trade. With telescope lenses the super fine optical adjustment is called "figuring". Do you have any lessons on nib adjustment and ink flow control?
Maybe a search for 'nib tuning' will turn something up for you
Very nice video. Congratulations and thank you very much!
You are more than welcome. Thanks for commenting.
Hi, thanks for putting up this helpful video.
***** Jeffry, you're more than welcome! Thanks for taking a look.
You're very welcome.
Excellent. Detailed and methodical. I have two Parker 51 aeromatic pens, and neither has a breather hole at the end of the barrel. What's gives?
Breather changed position in late 50's. Moved to side of barrel.
Impecable tu trabajo!!interesante ver las piezas👍gracias
Gracias por sus amables comentarios
Thanks for this great P51 How-To, Glenn. I just this week scored my 1st 51 -- a 4th Qtr 1948 Teal Aerometric Pen/Pencil set -- & finding it didn't come apart like most pens I'm familiar with; so I came looking. Found this video & taught me what to expect. Good stuff!
I was impressed by by the amount of grime you were lifting off the barrel & section! I'd like to ask, what's the (1) Cleaning, &(2) Polishing compounds you use?
This is the 1 micron abrasive I use primarily micro-surface.com/product/micro-gloss-liquid-abrasive-type-1-cleaner-polish/
I also use a slightly more aggressive version if necessary micro-surface.com/product/type-ii-cleaner-micro-gloss-5/
and then follow with their micro finish micro-surface.com/product/micro-finish-polish/
Can you do a repair video for the Parker 51 mechanical twist pencil? I'm having a problem pulling apart the mechanism inside. The plastic piece comes off fairly easy, but the brass piece inside the chrome tube is really on there. The problem I'm having is it won't feed the lead. I bought it used. I found a broken safety pin stuck inside. I got that out, but it still will not feed the lead. The cylinder is clean. You can see sun light through it.
Unfortunately I don't repair pencils.
HI, i have Caran D'Ache Silver-Plated, Rhodium-Coated LÉMAN EBONY BLACK Fountain Pen, pen was falling on glass and strached untill brass. I see metal, how can I repare this? Do I need a lacquer and which type because I cant just polish this spot? In description says "Round brass body and cap lacquered in deep black" Thank you Jovan
I do have a vintage Parker 51 given by my grandfather and it had not sucked ink for almost 7 decades.
I don't know what color of Parker ink does usually sucked by this Pen. Can I use any color of Parker ink and give it a try?
Fascinating ❤
Hi. Could I ask what diameter shim you used for the shims please.
Do you where I can find a replacement for the sac mine looks like a corkscrew. It was my Dad’s and i would love to us it!!
Also do you do the repairs for other people? And if you do, how much would it be?
what can i use to replace the breathertube? i have a parker 51 that the breathertube was replaced in the past for one with the half of the length... i bought it in that state.
Hi Franco, thanks for your question. If it's an Aerometric I use the replacement stainless steel tubing shown here. www.vintagepens.com/catill_nibs_parts.shtml
If it's a Vacumatic I use the teflon tubing shown on this page. www.vintagepens.com/catill_tools_supplies.shtml
Remember that if it's a Vacumatic that you can't use a breather tube length that interferes with the Vacumatic diaphragm when the plunger is fully depressed into the pen. If it's an Aerometric and there is a piece of the original sterling silver breather that remains in the feed, use a 00-90 tap to remove it. Sometimes the sterling silver ones will deterioriate and snap off where the tube enters the feed. Not all Aeros had a sterling silver breather tube. Thanks.
@@triumphvintagepens8545 thanks to you. Your vídeo was really complete.
Excelente tutorial, alguna persona por favor que pueda decirme los productos que usa para sellar, pulir, brillo etc. gracias
Have you figured out how. to disassemble a new Parker 51 (2021 model)? I purchased a plum 2021 Parker 51 with an 18kt gold medium nib and it skips, hard starts and has quite a bit of feedback. No where near as smooth or wet as my two vintage 1960’s-era Parker 51’s.
Thank you for your question. I haven't done any work at all on the new Parker 51s. I hope you get it solved. Best.
@@GEAtkins Whoops, I was signed in to the wrong account when I commented above.
Can I just take it some where and have the ink sac replaced without questioning my sanity?
Amazing, this is something I would love to lear how to do!
Du you have for sale the Parker lady duofold made in England black shroud by any chance if so how much do you want for it
Where do you buy your parts for the Parker 51’s? Thank you
Abel, thanks for the question. Mostly I get them off EBay, either the parts themselves, or pens that are irreparable in some way but have certain parts that are usable. We call these "part pens." I also have developed contacts around the world of pen enthusiasts, collectors and the like, mostly in Europe and South America. Occasionally, I run across and entire collection of pens, some that can be restored fully and others that amount to part pens. Best....
@@triumphvintagepens8545 how much do you charge to restore a Parker 51? Thank you
@@abelzalcberg8451 The typical restoration is $50 plus return shipping. Parts needed or specialty work is not included in the basic price. See the site at www.triumphvintagepens.com for more. Thanks for the question.
I have a parker 51 my mom gave me but the pastic part that has the silver ring broke on the bottom :/ do you know if I can get that piece somewhere ? :(
Is it the barrel or the black plastic piece with threads inside?
Hi do you do Montblanc F/pens? I have a MB Monte Rosa Hexagon with a broken piston filler shaft or recommend someone that repairs MB ? Thanks :-)
Hi John, sorry for the late reply. I don't do Montblancs but I'd recommend Ron Zorn at Main Street Pens. Best...
can u pls send a link, where to get grippers?
This is not the exact same the but very similar and will work.
www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/con-tact-grip-ultra-non-adhesive-18-inch-x-120-inch-shelf-liner-in-grey/5632145?keyword=drawer+liner
Awesome video!!! Thanks!!!
Sorry so long, you're welcome!
You're welcome - thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much for the most explicit and down to detail video,produced so far. Up to now I hesitated to start restoring my first, from -66.
Have you been able to get all your cleaning and spares in one place?
göran eurenius You're more than welcome! Yes, I have a specific place for my fountain pen stuff. It's organized to me but it looks like a mess!
Slowly going through all your videos, to learn more. Ignored you allready had put up so many. Very imppressed!!
Thank you very much Sorry for the ancient reply. ((:
Aside from a gold nib v stainless steel nib, and possibly the plastics used, how does the 51 differ from the lower cost 21?
Edit:
Why not use the sonic cleaner to clean the hood section inside and out? If there's dried ink in the threads, isn't there dried ink farther in?
Would the sonic cleaner overheat the hood plastic?
I'd be afraid of messing up the threads ising a dental pick.
Edit 2:
If you wanted to be able to remove the hood for cleaning the nib and feed without having to mess with the hot water soak to get the hood off, would a thin coat of silicon grease on the threads work as well as the shellac "to prevent leaks and other bad things"?
Question:
I know the 51 and 21 came with a "firm" no flex nib. If a person wanted a flex nib, would a Zebra "G" nib fit the feed and collector?
Not much difference between 51 and 21 cosmetically. 21 is a lesser quality build and uses a different plastic. YOU CANNOT USE WET HEAT ON A PARKER 21. I will melt the plastic. I do use the sonic cleaner on the hood. But a qtip is used for a better removal of ink.
Some 51s have an oring inside the hood near the top where it screws on to the pen body. These you don't need to use shellac. You could try silicone grease. The reason the pros use shellac is to keep curious minds from opening the pen. Creates a lot of headaches. Haven't tried the zebra nib.
Thank you soooo much for this.
Great video really helped repair my wife's Parker 51 misaligned collector. Goodness knows how that happened! . What mix of shellac do you use ? What's it thinned with and is there any oil in it ?
Glad you got your wife's pen fixed up. I typically buy shellac from commercial vendors in small quantities because a little bit goes a long way. If you're in the States, you can also get it at the big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.). Shellac is typically made, or thinned, with denatured alcohol and contains no oil (as in petroleum products) that I am aware of.
great video. You give me courage to give it a try. is this the same for a Parker 21?
+John Kreutz
John, Thanks for your kind comments on the video.
The later 21s and the 21 Supers are very similar to the 51. Depending on the version you have, some will have tubular nib like the 51.
One of the key differences to note is that the 21 is made out polystyrene and NOT lucite like the 51's. I would not put the 21 in hot water because it might discolor the plastic. The 21s are particularly noted for cracking at the hood and barrel, on either side of the clutch ring.
For more info, check these links out:
Glenn
www.parkercollector.com/parker21.html
www.richardspens.com/?page=ref/profiles/21.htm
www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/154364-ode-to-the-lowly-parker-21/
www.peytonstreetpens.com/parker-super-21-fountain-pen-new-old-stock-fine-and-extra-fine.html
dirck.delint.ca/beta/?page_id=1881
www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/286644-parker-21-questions/?hl=%22parker+21%22
www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/273878-first-newbie-catastrophe-parker-21/?hl=%22parker+21%22
www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/265787-parker-21-aerometric-filler-removal/?hl=%22parker+21%22
www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search§ion=search&do=search&fromsearch=1
Thanks I appreciate your help
+John Kreutz
You're welcome my friend. Let me know if I can help in any other way.
Glenn
Awesome video! I have a question for you; so I have a Parker 51 which I believe is an original. It has the blue diamond on the insignia which means it has a lifetime warranty. If I were to contact Parker Pens, do you think they would refurbish it for me or anything? Tell me what you think!
Kerig, that sounds like an awesome pen! Unfortunately, even though the blue diamond does indicate a lifetime warranty, Parker doesn't work on these old pens anymore. My how times have changed. Best of luck! Thanks for the comment.
Is the polish you are using Micro Gloss 'blue?
Yes it is the "blue" The green is a little more abrasive. They also have a red that is more like a polish. I use them all in various circumstances.
Quel amour pour l'stylo! grat
Nice video
Thank you. Sorry so late in replying to you.
I got a Parker 51 vacumatic from my grandmother and i would love to get it working. I was wondering if you could restore my Parker 51 for me. (I would pay you if that is the case i would just love to get it working again. The pen means so much to me.
If you wold restore it for me it would mean the world to me. (please reply to tell me if you could or not)
Thanks Ethan!...
Thanks for a most excellent video! I own two P51's from 1948. Is it recommended to simply flush them out with water until they run clear then let them dry for a few days? I am not sure I'm confident enough to do a complete restoration. Thanks!
Hey, this is late, but he mentioned that he used 'pen flush', and the super easy recipe is searchable here on youtube. Best wishes
I hope this isn't too much trouble, but is there a list somewhere that details all of the tools you used in this video/that you would need if you want to take on the challenge of restoring one of these pens?
Sandra, sorry for being late in getting back to you. I'll put something together for you if you're still looking.
Thanks for replying! I'd still be interested. Thanks!
I have many parker of various types I need to repair it could you repair it
Some need spare part
I am from Saudi Arabia
I got a Parker 51 vacumatic from my grandmother and i would love to get it working. I was wondering if you could restore my Parker 51 for me. (I would pay you if that is the case i would just love to get it working again. The pen means so much to me.
If you wold restore it for me it would mean the world to me. (please reply to tell me if you could or not)
thank you
-Ethan whitmer
I'd be happy to. Please contact me through www.TriumphVintagePens.com
Whose cat is that? Good grief. If that isn't its personality being displayed, the critter needs to be spayed or neutered. You seemed obliviously 'in the pen repair zone', so I'm guessing it's either a neighbor's kitty -- although it sounded quite nearby -- or maybe it's yours, but you aren't the 'cat person' in the house. I watched the video for the appropriate reasons, and I liked it, but that distraction was bothersome. I have a landlord who's a douchebag, trying to evict me for having a momma kitty and her six young'uns in my apartment after rescuing them. I'm just acutely aware of the problem of unwanted and unnecessary growth of feral cat populations due to indiscriminate, ignorant and careless 'owners'. Just sayin'. Great work, with fine attention to detail. I'll use a vintage fountain pen for writing to relevant authorities with my concerns about feral cat populations. ; ]
Too long video