Looks kinda dangerous not having one more clip in between the two final ones the women's wall. Pretty hairy drop those who didn't quite reach the top. .
My guess there is it raises it more a risk if they put 1 more quickdraw before the top, probably potentially on the final angle surface. Since the sequence itself is a diagonal dyno at the top and the additional quickdraw makes it less rope length from the last point before the move, which means less diameter of swing and that guarantees an absolute hit to the wall because it's on same flatten wall surface, though I think it would be a less impact to atheles if they do so. The loose rope from a far quickdraw also gives athletes a little more freedom of momentum creation in 3 dimensional way. The point is which they association would rather take, a big fall but less possible hit on the lower wall since it's steeper, or a less vertical fall but a potential limiting of athletes' performance and a guaranteed hit to wall that causes athlete bruise or something. And apparently it's the former rather than the latter.
That fall from Zelia in the final looked so scary
Why are semi-final recaps like this now being uploaded after the finals?
Semis were in the morning and finals in the evening on the same day
Looks kinda dangerous not having one more clip in between the two final ones the women's wall. Pretty hairy drop those who didn't quite reach the top. .
My guess there is it raises it more a risk if they put 1 more quickdraw before the top, probably potentially on the final angle surface. Since the sequence itself is a diagonal dyno at the top and the additional quickdraw makes it less rope length from the last point before the move, which means less diameter of swing and that guarantees an absolute hit to the wall because it's on same flatten wall surface, though I think it would be a less impact to atheles if they do so. The loose rope from a far quickdraw also gives athletes a little more freedom of momentum creation in 3 dimensional way. The point is which they association would rather take, a big fall but less possible hit on the lower wall since it's steeper, or a less vertical fall but a potential limiting of athletes' performance and a guaranteed hit to wall that causes athlete bruise or something. And apparently it's the former rather than the latter.
@@tkc1437 T/y the rationale and makes sense too - I imagine the routesetters considered just what you explained and decided then to not. thanks again.
Where is Janja?
She quit
She quit
Focusing on upcoming Olympics.
She decide to skip some world cups to focus on Olympic.
Did not join this comp.
Maybe prepping for the Olympics.
Also she just won Lead gold in Innsbruck.
Worst crowd ever, you‘re forced to sit down, what a shame for the city !