Nice rack !! These OMM racks look nice, but in my opinion too heavy, and much to expensive. Your setup cost about $280, I think. Also, I am still amazed that in 2023, bicycle frames do not have a proper mounting point for racks (front & rear).. In your case you had to buy a $80 thru-axle to make it fit. (looks like solid construction!). I see so often that people with a gravel bike ask this question : "How do I attach a rack to this frame ??" (Usually a frame without any mounting point.) I think bicycle builders should consider to make proper mounting points for racks as a standard on every bike. Anywho, thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching & commenting. I bought this steel bike for ride quality and the frame mounts as I knew I was going to go bikepacking with it and wanted a carbon fork to lighten it for unloaded local gravel riding and better dampening. I knew that the forks had limits and if it didn't have this shimmy issue (getting back to what you said about manufacturer concerns) I might not have bought this rack and continued to use fork cage mounts (the Ortlieb don't require eyelets on the fork) with dry bags. The cliche no one bike for everything, not everyone wants mounts on their carbon bike but yeah It was way expensive ($224 out the door on sale).
agree. mistakes happen. instructions and support can be ignorant about the designers intentions. and they cannot plan for every possible bike. so bring your own hardware and figure out the best way to mount for your bike.
If you don't mind that the rack wouldn't be over the center of the front tire that would work. I think a better solution, especially for what this setup costs, would be a more bike model specific "fit kit". In my case maybe a longer axle with the appropriate thickness aluminum spacers that center the rack over the tire so one doesn't have to bend the rack's legs or shift over the rack on the dropouts. This is a universal rack that has to fit 100mm hub spacing and up to at least 148mm (boost). It's not as custom as I thought it would be. Thank you for watching and commenting
I don't think support was ignorant of the designer intentions but as you say they can't plan for every possible bike but I do feel for what this kit cost they could do better@@therealkakkamakkara
@socaljoe that is a wide range of axle widths. Now that I have seen this video (thankyou for producing it), I would personally pass on this rack, although the bike I want to put it on has 148mm Boost spacing and wouldn't require the custom through axle.
Thank you for this video and it’s thoroughness. I just ordered two racks. Curious to know what type of Allen wrench you were using. Haven’t seen one like that before. Thanks again!
@@pcbootleger As said, the key difference is you noticing it’s coming loose, rather than only realising after losing the nut in the middle of nowhere…. Thats more important than looking tidy.
One would notice it’s loose by the rattling. In this case, the Allen head could stick out just as much one one side as the nut on the other. There is zero advantage of having the nut side unless there is a need for the bolt to stick out and intentionally scrape stuff. People like you give bad advice just to be able to feel like they are contributing and that needs to stop.
@@zulu1184 spot the non mechanical person giving mechanical advice…. (I actually ride more off road than on road but it’s irrelevant)I’m not responding after this but please stop just randomly giving unnecessary “advice”.
When you use the thru-axle mount you literally have to uninstall the rack every time you want to remove the wheel. You've got to be pretty desperate to resort to that.
I know not everybody is handy but I made front and rear touring racks out of sch 40 I had lying around and I think $2.37 for screws matching the threaded frame mounts and never have they been loaded under double the weight limit for mass manufactured racks. I’m not trying to run you down, just want people to know that hundreds of dollars are needlessly spent when maybe $25 and a little elbow grease could get you twice the durability if only people did a little thinking before buying.
Thank you for the video, very helpful as Im looking to get a similar system. Great detail the acrylic bike stand to make it seem stand by itself.
@@JP_Rmz this is the weekend to purchase - 20% off for black Friday
Nice rack !! These OMM racks look nice, but in my opinion too heavy, and much to expensive. Your setup cost about $280, I think. Also, I am still amazed that in 2023, bicycle frames do not have a proper mounting point for racks (front & rear).. In your case you had to buy a $80 thru-axle to make it fit. (looks like solid construction!). I see so often that people with a gravel bike ask this question : "How do I attach a rack to this frame ??" (Usually a frame without any mounting point.)
I think bicycle builders should consider to make proper mounting points for racks as a standard on every bike. Anywho, thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching & commenting. I bought this steel bike for ride quality and the frame mounts as I knew I was going to go bikepacking with it and wanted a carbon fork to lighten it for unloaded local gravel riding and better dampening. I knew that the forks had limits and if it didn't have this shimmy issue (getting back to what you said about manufacturer concerns) I might not have bought this rack and continued to use fork cage mounts (the Ortlieb don't require eyelets on the fork) with dry bags. The cliche no one bike for everything, not everyone wants mounts on their carbon bike but yeah It was way expensive ($224 out the door on sale).
I would have moved both risers on the front rack to the inside instead of bending the rack.
agree. mistakes happen. instructions and support can be ignorant about the designers intentions. and they cannot plan for every possible bike. so bring your own hardware and figure out the best way to mount for your bike.
If you don't mind that the rack wouldn't be over the center of the front tire that would work. I think a better solution, especially for what this setup costs, would be a more bike model specific "fit kit". In my case maybe a longer axle with the appropriate thickness aluminum spacers that center the rack over the tire so one doesn't have to bend the rack's legs or shift over the rack on the dropouts. This is a universal rack that has to fit 100mm hub spacing and up to at least 148mm (boost). It's not as custom as I thought it would be. Thank you for watching and commenting
I don't think support was ignorant of the designer intentions but as you say they can't plan for every possible bike but I do feel for what this kit cost they could do better@@therealkakkamakkara
@socaljoe that is a wide range of axle widths. Now that I have seen this video (thankyou for producing it), I would personally pass on this rack, although the bike I want to put it on has 148mm Boost spacing and wouldn't require the custom through axle.
@@pcbootleger I ended up having to do that anyway to get it centered over the tire
every time he says 'carbon fork' take a shot.
Thank you for this video and it’s thoroughness. I just ordered two racks.
Curious to know what type of Allen wrench you were using. Haven’t seen one like that before. Thanks again!
It's made by Silca. Blackburn & Topeak also make mini ratchets for bike tool kits
I wish it had MIK built in...
the dropouts are on the wrong side!!!!
Handy hint - put the nuts on the outside rather than inside, it’s a lot easier to spot if they start working loose…
That’s bad advice as A) it’s uglier, B) it’s easier to put a flat wrench on the nut as there is less space for an Allen wrench.
@@pcbootleger As said, the key difference is you noticing it’s coming loose, rather than only realising after losing the nut in the middle of nowhere…. Thats more important than looking tidy.
One would notice it’s loose by the rattling. In this case, the Allen head could stick out just as much one one side as the nut on the other. There is zero advantage of having the nut side unless there is a need for the bolt to stick out and intentionally scrape stuff. People like you give bad advice just to be able to feel like they are contributing and that needs to stop.
@@pcbootleger “One would notice it’s loose by the rattling” spot the roadie/person who’s never ridden seriously off-road…
@@zulu1184 spot the non mechanical person giving mechanical advice…. (I actually ride more off road than on road but it’s irrelevant)I’m not responding after this but please stop just randomly giving unnecessary “advice”.
When you use the thru-axle mount you literally have to uninstall the rack every time you want to remove the wheel. You've got to be pretty desperate to resort to that.
@@PittApartment thank goodness I’m not desperate very often
I know not everybody is handy but I made front and rear touring racks out of sch 40 I had lying around and I think $2.37 for screws matching the threaded frame mounts and never have they been loaded under double the weight limit for mass manufactured racks. I’m not trying to run you down, just want people to know that hundreds of dollars are needlessly spent when maybe $25 and a little elbow grease could get you twice the durability if only people did a little thinking before buying.
Are you talking about PVC irrigation pipe?
@@socaljoe Sorry, yeah, joe. I noticed I said schedule 40 PVC earlier but I meant schedule 80 (the thicker gray PVC).