I can’t appreciate this video enough🙏 im having a heck of a time trying to remove the crank shaft even with the thick socket. I have a cheap little air compressor and impact. I’m gonna buy one and hope this does the trick!
After wrestling with axle nuts on a 96 Nissan maxima and getting nowhere and breaking all my breaker bars .i bought this same Harbor freight impact gun ..I hit the axle nuts with that impact and in 2 seconds flat. Those axle nuts coma spinning off ..I was Happy Happy Happy
Refreshing to see someone who knows en0ough to keep their finger on the trigger till the bolt comes loose, instead of revving it ! By the way just purchased a few weeks ago for 48 at their parking lot sale .
I got it's Grandpa electric impact, Chicago Electric. Needed to loosen my 1983 Harley Davidson primary belt sprocket. Ordered it from Harbor Freight when Stationed in the Philippines 1989-92. Still use it for lug nuts.
I did the same job on the same car, couldn't break loose the bolt with the Bauer. I even tried the trick where you use the starter to swing a ratchet around to hit the subframe to try and loosten the bolt, which didn't work. I had to put a piece of 4 foot square steel tube on the end of a two foot breaker bar, which almost didn't work. The end of the tubing that was slipped over the end of the breaker bar was deformed a bit after the fact.
@@Buckwsr Very much so haha, but it was worth it since I got to finish the job. The main reason I did it in the first place was because of a rattling sound, which is common and caused by the hydraulic timing belt tensioner; it can leak fluid and reduce its tensioning force, making it weaker and rattle.
next time get a good pen oil + a hammer, spray it about 1 week in advance of you doing the job. and hammer it a tad, and keep doing that every day up until its GO time, then take an impact and the lisle socket and wack at it, if that still dont work heat it up.
@@pharezknights5467 i was using an impact socket with 12 teeth, and the special tool meant to keep the crankshaft pulley from moving while you try to remove the bolt I used a ratchet connected to the special tool lodged against the asphalt to keep the crankshaft from moving
I hit the wall. Same brand new Bauer. Same Lisle socket. The socket started to strip the bolt. Very loose fit. Put another impact socket on it and it isn't stripping, but nothing is happening. I went over to HF and picked up a 12 gauge 25' cord to see if that could be the problem. My air compressor will not work on typical beefy outdoor extension cords. Maybe that will solve the problem in the morning. I noticed that the Bauer stops. Unlike an air-driven one that keeps hammering away at it. I'm working on a 2014 Acura TL with a 3.7-liter engine.
Crankshaft bolt removal is the only true test for these impact wrenches. just spent 30 minutes on camry and the impact I borrowed just cant even nudge the sucker.the bolt on my 98 camry has never been removed.
@@Buckwsr yes it's not the impact wrench ( I tried the Bauer and it didn't work) the credit goes to the thick wall special impact sockets.Bauer has fake specs. at best it's around 300. only some one inch and maybe 3/4 air impact wrenches can go as high as 1000
I bought this impact gun yesterday to remove seized lug nuts on my Dodge Dakota. It looked like the one I bought was used and returned when I pulled it out of the box, but i tried it anyway. I was disappointed to see that it did not work for my situation. I attached a torque monitor to my breaker bar and pipe, and I recorded 258 ft-lbs breakaway torque. The Bauer was rated at 1,050 ft-lbs in reverse, but couldn't do it. Maybe I bought a bad unit. I'm happy to see it worked for you! I love cheap tools
Had to pin a ratchet in the frame of the car with the special pulley tool and use a breaker bar on mine. I bent my breaker bar into a parabolic shape for several minutes before it finally broke free. It's a nasty business for sure.
Thinking of breaking the bolt loose and tightening every 20k miles. Would that be a good idea to keep the bolt from seizing when I change the timing belt after 5-6 years?
I don't think the issue is the bolt seizing, but simply being torqued so darn tight. And like most of us, you're probably too busy to actually schedule a "crank bolt re-torquing" every 20,000 miles. It just ain't gonna happen....
@@Buckwsr I'm going to do it once at the next tire rotation. I brought the Ody new, applied never seize to the silly screws on the rotors. Seems like I should bust that bolt once, oil it, then torque it down to 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees
@@davidbuche I think service data prescribes motor oil on the threads. I torqued it to 47lbs, and then used a marker to draw a line on the bolt head and then the pulley at approximately 60 degrees, and then used the impact gun to tighten it more or less to that distance. I could not get the full 60 degrees with hand tools. Had to use the impact. I've had no problems with it at all. But I still say there's no need to mess with it till you're actually doing the timing belt job. Either way, enjoy your Odyssey. Great car!
Glad it worked for you, sorry to say it didnt work for me, neither did a craftsman 450 lb max torque corded impact I borrowed (not sure the formula to convert max torque to breakaway but breakaway seems to be dubious). I think maybe I got a bad lisle socket as the tolerances were sloppy, it rocked on the bolt, and it had poor contact nearly rounding it off bolt. Also tried the starter method, a 1/2" breaker bar with extensions and 6 feet of pipe, but the extensions flexed too much, also bent one of them. Was about to give up and buy a 3/4" bar and extension, but I was able to finally yank it loose with just my 1/2" breaker bar and no extension. I would not recommend this method though unless you want to give a chiropractor some money.
@@pharezknights5467 yes I used the lisle socket when attempting to impact it off. When I finally got it off with the breaker bar I was just using a regular deep six point socket.
When using an impact wrench, is there no need for the harmonic to be held with the special tool? Isn’t there a chance you can spin the engine counter clockwise? I’m just asking, because I’ll be doing this to a 2015 pilot soon.
Even if the engine were to rotate a bit in the opposite direction, it's no big deal, as the timing belt is still in place behind the harmonic balancer, and everything would remain perfectly synchronized.
@@Buckwsr no I didn't , I just used a normal impact socket. I decided to keep it though and been using it a lot. Haven't found anything else it couldn't break loose yet
I once on a 3800 series 2 was taking a crank pulley off and has a Milwaukee fuel 1/2 inch impact that wouldn’t take the bolt out but was literally turning the motor over. Ended up having to position a breaker bar on the subframe and tap the starter to get the bolt off so this is very impressive.
Oh yeah, I've done that breaker-bar-bump-the-starter method on another vehicle in which I had no room to use the impact gun. Worked like a charm. In this case, the Bauer 1/2" electric impact gun (in conjunction with the Lisle 19mm thick walled impact socket) worked so well that it made me wonder if the bolt had been properly torqued from the previous time the timing belt was replaced... Anyway, good luck, and thanks for watching the video!
Well, honestly, I haven't used it since I made that video and did the Honda timing belt job....as that was just a month or so ago. So, yeah, I'm still happy with it!!! ha ha!
I got this for my infamous Kawasaki front sprocket nut, that thing was on TIGHT! I couldn’t get it loose with long pipe I tried heat and penetrating oil, nope! Wouldn’t come budge one bit! So I gave up and bought this wrench and it zip it right off no sweat. I still have it in my tool box just in case.
They all come out looking like that, but they are never easy to remove. You could spend all day, and break some breaker bars as well trying to take one out if you're a diyer. The bolt is never rusted inside the threads but it's still seized. It's not for the weak.
I think the Honda Crank-Bolt should be the standard for which all impact wrenches are judged.
Lmfao
Ya ever pulled one off a 5.3? 😂
lmfao too 🤣🤣🤣
It's one of the tightest bolt's I'm the automotive repair industry. VW flywheel bolts and rear spindle nuts are tough to break loose as well.
I can’t appreciate this video enough🙏 im having a heck of a time trying to remove the crank shaft even with the thick socket. I have a cheap little air compressor and impact. I’m gonna buy one and hope this does the trick!
Thanks so much. Believe me, once you get that crank bolt out, the rest of the job will be a piece of cake!
After wrestling with axle nuts on a 96 Nissan maxima and getting nowhere and breaking all my breaker bars .i bought this same Harbor freight impact gun ..I hit the axle nuts with that impact and in 2 seconds flat. Those axle nuts coma spinning off ..I was Happy Happy Happy
I'll bet that was a happy feeling! Good job!
That gun is strong. I took out axle nuts out as well that where seized. Win win
Refreshing to see someone who knows en0ough to keep their finger on the trigger till the bolt comes loose, instead of revving it ! By the way just purchased a few weeks ago for 48 at their parking lot sale .
Good deal for $48.00. I don't use the tool a lot, but I'm glad to have it when I need it.
just getting to work on mine today. I'll post an update
2004 toyota camry
toyota camry bolt didn't stand a Chance
Glad you got the job done!
I got it's Grandpa electric impact, Chicago Electric. Needed to loosen my 1983 Harley Davidson primary belt sprocket. Ordered it from Harbor Freight when Stationed in the Philippines 1989-92. Still use it for lug nuts.
Just the video I was looking for, for the job I am going to do, for the exact tool I am going to buy. Sold me on it!
Great! Hope it works out well for you! Thanks
I did the same job on the same car, couldn't break loose the bolt with the Bauer. I even tried the trick where you use the starter to swing a ratchet around to hit the subframe to try and loosten the bolt, which didn't work. I had to put a piece of 4 foot square steel tube on the end of a two foot breaker bar, which almost didn't work. The end of the tubing that was slipped over the end of the breaker bar was deformed a bit after the fact.
Wow! What a nightmare....
@@Buckwsr Very much so haha, but it was worth it since I got to finish the job. The main reason I did it in the first place was because of a rattling sound, which is common and caused by the hydraulic timing belt tensioner; it can leak fluid and reduce its tensioning force, making it weaker and rattle.
next time get a good pen oil + a hammer, spray it about 1 week in advance of you doing the job. and hammer it a tad, and keep doing that every day up until its GO time, then take an impact and the lisle socket and wack at it, if that still dont work heat it up.
Did you use the socket design for that bolt or a normal one ?
@@pharezknights5467 i was using an impact socket with 12 teeth, and the special tool meant to keep the crankshaft pulley from moving while you try to remove the bolt
I used a ratchet connected to the special tool lodged against the asphalt to keep the crankshaft from moving
I hit the wall. Same brand new Bauer. Same Lisle socket. The socket started to strip the bolt. Very loose fit. Put another impact socket on it and it isn't stripping, but nothing is happening. I went over to HF and picked up a 12 gauge 25' cord to see if that could be the problem. My air compressor will not work on typical beefy outdoor extension cords. Maybe that will solve the problem in the morning. I noticed that the Bauer stops. Unlike an air-driven one that keeps hammering away at it. I'm working on a 2014 Acura TL with a 3.7-liter engine.
Hopefully you got it figured out....
Crankshaft bolt removal is the only true test for these impact wrenches. just spent 30 minutes on camry and the impact I borrowed just cant even nudge the sucker.the bolt on my 98 camry has never been removed.
I think the trick is the combination of a high-powered impact wrench and the thick-walled Lisle 19mm Honda impact socket.
@@Buckwsr yes it's not the impact wrench ( I tried the Bauer and it didn't work) the credit goes to the thick wall special impact sockets.Bauer has fake specs. at best it's around 300. only some one inch and maybe 3/4 air impact wrenches can go as high as 1000
I’m running out to Harbor freight to get this Bauer impact gun I’m hoping it will do the job
I bought this impact gun yesterday to remove seized lug nuts on my Dodge Dakota. It looked like the one I bought was used and returned when I pulled it out of the box, but i tried it anyway. I was disappointed to see that it did not work for my situation.
I attached a torque monitor to my breaker bar and pipe, and I recorded 258 ft-lbs breakaway torque. The Bauer was rated at 1,050 ft-lbs in reverse, but couldn't do it. Maybe I bought a bad unit. I'm happy to see it worked for you! I love cheap tools
I used it last week for lug nuts. No problem at all. Maybe you got a defective unit...?
I just got one and it said 300 lbs in the manual and 1050 on the box.
Had to pin a ratchet in the frame of the car with the special pulley tool and use a breaker bar on mine. I bent my breaker bar into a parabolic shape for several minutes before it finally broke free. It's a nasty business for sure.
I've heard horror stories. Maybe I just got lucky....
Thinking of breaking the bolt loose and tightening every 20k miles. Would that be a good idea to keep the bolt from seizing when I change the timing belt after 5-6 years?
I don't think the issue is the bolt seizing, but simply being torqued so darn tight. And like most of us, you're probably too busy to actually schedule a "crank bolt re-torquing" every 20,000 miles. It just ain't gonna happen....
@@Buckwsr
I'm going to do it once at the next tire rotation. I brought the Ody new, applied never seize to the silly screws on the rotors. Seems like I should bust that bolt once, oil it, then torque it down to 47 ft lb plus 60 degrees
@@davidbuche I think service data prescribes motor oil on the threads. I torqued it to 47lbs, and then used a marker to draw a line on the bolt head and then the pulley at approximately 60 degrees, and then used the impact gun to tighten it more or less to that distance. I could not get the full 60 degrees with hand tools. Had to use the impact. I've had no problems with it at all. But I still say there's no need to mess with it till you're actually doing the timing belt job. Either way, enjoy your Odyssey. Great car!
Nice, honest review, thanks!
Glad it worked for you, sorry to say it didnt work for me, neither did a craftsman 450 lb max torque corded impact I borrowed (not sure the formula to convert max torque to breakaway but breakaway seems to be dubious). I think maybe I got a bad lisle socket as the tolerances were sloppy, it rocked on the bolt, and it had poor contact nearly rounding it off bolt. Also tried the starter method, a 1/2" breaker bar with extensions and 6 feet of pipe, but the extensions flexed too much, also bent one of them. Was about to give up and buy a 3/4" bar and extension, but I was able to finally yank it loose with just my 1/2" breaker bar and no extension. I would not recommend this method though unless you want to give a chiropractor some money.
Wow. What an experience. But you won! Good luck with the chiropractor.
Did you use the socket design for that bolt or a normal one ?
I also used the same Bauer 1/2" Electric Impact Wrench, couldn't loose the 2008 Honda odyssey. I am trying milwaukee 1400 ft tomorrow.
@@pharezknights5467 yes I used the lisle socket when attempting to impact it off. When I finally got it off with the breaker bar I was just using a regular deep six point socket.
@@smithrobert528 I'm in the same boat. Did the Milwaukee work? If not what did?
Needed a cheap impact wrench for lugnuts. For the price and power I’m not disappointed
Thanks, David. I bought it specifically for the notoriously difficult Honda crankbolt. I haven't used it too much since then.
When using an impact wrench, is there no need for the harmonic to be held with the special tool? Isn’t there a chance you can spin the engine counter clockwise? I’m just asking, because I’ll be doing this to a 2015 pilot soon.
Even if the engine were to rotate a bit in the opposite direction, it's no big deal, as the timing belt is still in place behind the harmonic balancer, and everything would remain perfectly synchronized.
I bought this for the same reason, it wouldn't break my honda accord crank bolt loose. Ended up using a long extension nd. Lon cheater bar
Did you try the 19mm Lisle socket for these honda crank bolts?
@@Buckwsr no I didn't , I just used a normal impact socket. I decided to keep it though and been using it a lot. Haven't found anything else it couldn't break loose yet
Let’s not forget how the socket choice played a part in how easy the bolt came off. The Lisle socket definitely deserves mentioning.
Impressive
I once on a 3800 series 2 was taking a crank pulley off and has a Milwaukee fuel 1/2 inch impact that wouldn’t take the bolt out but was literally turning the motor over. Ended up having to position a breaker bar on the subframe and tap the starter to get the bolt off so this is very impressive.
Oh yeah, I've done that breaker-bar-bump-the-starter method on another vehicle in which I had no room to use the impact gun. Worked like a charm. In this case, the Bauer 1/2" electric impact gun (in conjunction with the Lisle 19mm thick walled impact socket) worked so well that it made me wonder if the bolt had been properly torqued from the previous time the timing belt was replaced... Anyway, good luck, and thanks for watching the video!
@@Buckwsr not a problem! I’ll be buying one of those Bauer electric impacts real soon. Seems more powerful than my pneumatic impact.
You didn't even break a sweat. More importantly, neither did the Bauer.
Those Bauer's are Beasts. Not sure how to control the speed, it's just one speed, " it's off".
I've been using mine lately to remove/install lawn tractor blades. It's making my life a little easier.
Hey man good video! Are you still happy with that bauer?
Well, honestly, I haven't used it since I made that video and did the Honda timing belt job....as that was just a month or so ago. So, yeah, I'm still happy with it!!! ha ha!
I got this for my infamous Kawasaki front sprocket nut, that thing was on TIGHT! I couldn’t get it loose with long pipe I tried heat and penetrating oil, nope! Wouldn’t come budge one bit! So I gave up and bought this wrench and it zip it right off no sweat. I still have it in my tool box just in case.
Lmao same
Wow. That was easy.
that bolt was lubed up and rust free. could've gotten it out with a nut driver
Yes, torqued to "Finger Tight" according to factory specifications.
They all come out looking like that, but they are never easy to remove. You could spend all day, and break some breaker bars as well trying to take one out if you're a diyer. The bolt is never rusted inside the threads but it's still seized. It's not for the weak.