Thanks. That's an in line twin engine airboat under way (look for Perry pump vid to see engines), fitting it in between fiddling with electric guitars at the moment :-)
Amazing Build Great work! Nothing but appreciation for you and your skills! but that boat is way too Awesome for that stock airplane exhaust! Let that beautiful boat Breathe and Scream like it does just standing there! Nice! Hands Down the coolest looking Airboat I've ever seen now lets get a tuned pipe on it and make it GO!
I've got a hot Alpha engine to go in it at some point, the pipe will come with it. But I'll come back to that as I've much other stuff to do. Thanks for the compliment :-)
Excellent free hand work. That is the most fun way. I just built a flatbottom tractor airboat with a K&B .65 Glow Engine and vane stearing and was wondering if I should add a water rudder. I have a ton of old balsa water ski production blanks, so I simply used a foam boogie board as the starting plug and planked the whole boogie board top, sides and bottom with 3/8" balsa sheathing and polyester fiberglassed he bottom and sides with a turned up balsa nose. It is quite heavy. The next one will be hollow and light. As you know, real hydroplanes barely float and foam is deceptively heavy, so I doubt if light weight carbon fiber is any advantage in your application. Carbon fiber holds no advantage over fiberglass in a heavy hydroplane, but I understand you were doing for the carbon fiber laying experience. It appears the trimaran types of model hydroplanes are the fastest with airscrews.
Hi. Can you please tell me how you got the glow plug on top when the engine in upside down? Is that the radio box on the bottom? Thank you, and compliments for an exellent job.
HI, thanks for the compliment. The boat uses a 'remote glow adaptor'. A spring loaded cap, similar to a spark plug cap on a car, fits to the plug and runs to a connector which is the same as a glow plug's shape so a regular starter can be used. They are also available with 3.5mm plugs to connect if wanted. These are intended for use on aircraft with cowled motors, and work just fine. So long as you know your engine and starting is reliable there's no problem having limited access to the plug itself, on this boat they only come out for replacement, floods etc are dealt with by turning the motor by hand with the exhaust side down. Yes, the radio was in the bottom. This has worked out fine, the boat is still active to this day. But, I'd probably not do it that way again. It was only an after thought as being easy to put the radio in there, as it was never intended to be run when built first so there was no allowance for hatches etc.
Amazing you've moved beyond just model building and created an art form , im not being critical. I realize you were staying with a theme but , I was almost saddened wen you put color over that beautiful aluminum work , I've been a scratch builder most of my life and have spent days on making aluminum parts from t-6 road sign aluminum lol pots pans and a few other sources. However I see your finished product and truly respect your workmanship I tripped across your video by accident . But am now a subscriber I look forward to seeing more of your work thanks for sharing .ps the carbon fiber is awesome..!
Thanks, I appreciate your comments. I started anodising aluminium parts simply because of tarnishing issues. I'm a Design Engineer in the marine industry and whilst fresh water lakes are hardly the same as sea water for risk I do like my models to be well presented, and experience shows that anodising goes a long way to help these little parts stay in good order. I get what you mean though, my dad used to make live steam engines and I always liked the visual evidence of the craft to be seen in those copious hand made brass parts before they were painted.
the boat design is excellent. how did you shape with just sandpaper? Was not it difficult? I got foam and started. I inspired you. but I will use the edf engine. I hope it will be like that. I will design the hull as f1
Rc Boat TR. Use coarse sandpaper, I use 40 and 80 grit. I stick the sandpaper to boards using double sided tape. Use rounded blocks of wood to stick sandpaper to for concave shapes.This helps to generate accurate surfaces. Mark lines on the foam to shape down to and use paper templates to ensure symmetry. The foam is easily shaped down with such coarse abrasives.
Rc Boat TR. I also use a coarse file, actually a 'rasp', which has been heated and bent so that it can work into recesses. For a quick and even top to the sponson decks an electric planer was used. Most of these tools are in the video.
devin buchanana: difficult to say, it was entirely made using offcuts, spares and left over materials. I would estimate around £50 of material consumption, plus engine and radio.
So.. What size 2 stroke? .40 ,.50, .60? And the length and width of the boat to support the engine and weight. Or was there another way you came up with the ratio.. It looked pretty well balanced in the water.. I going to build something like that with an OS.60 and am trying to fit it figured out.
Thanks. Amongst the pictures you'll find wooden and metal sanding blocks for shaping the foam and glass fibre layups to get a flat finish. I find it best to have sharp fresh coarse grit abrasive paper under the blocks on the foam. To generate a spot on surface on the glass fibre those metal blocks are my best friend. They are ground tool steel stock, and the best thing to hit high spots without too much excavation of the surface elsewhere. Alternating directions of travel when sanding keeps the low spots visible, and generally helps to show where pressure needs to be placed on the blocks. To reduce the sanding needed, when using chopped strand mat apply the glass fibre resin using a spreader and only stipple it gently with a brush after to consolidate the fibres, this helps to reduce mounding of the fibres. Wick off any excess resin using a brush. A layer of fine woven cloth on top of the sanded chopped strand mat, again with resin applied by spreader, leaves a surface with little left to rub down. I use epoxy resins over polyesters.
Generally it's not necessary, it's very light and provides buoyancy and compressive strength. In essence the idea is that the skin provides a tough outer to a foam boat. Removing the foam as part of the process is sometimes done, but not often. If it was built with that in mind often the foam used might be easily soluble with suitable chemical solvents, such as polystyrene. If you need to remove some like I for radio gear etc then the same carving/sanding and filing will do it. In my case I ploughed in with a B&D Powerfile.
I understand. I need to remove the foam from a section because I'll add esc and lipo to that part. But I like the idea of the chemical that melted the foam. Many thanks for your help. I can do something with you.
Nice airboat! Just replace the Thunder Tiger engine and strap on a Jett .56 LX either SJ or BSE on that model - it sure will be fast! Don't forget that engine comes with Jett decals too :)
The decals would go on the tool box :-) . Seriously though the Jett engines clearly have a good rep, loads of guys on the forum this was first presented on had a lot of good to say about them. I've not seen them in the UK though. I have got an Alpha engine which was destined to be converted to go in this, something that will come in time though, other fish to fry :-).
You sir are a master craftsmen. Complete symmetry carving foam by hand. I'm not impressed by much. I operate CP helicopters and build extreme surface mod'd vehicles. The Obi Wan of Outrigger air boats.
Not that I don't have enough rc dreams and distractions....but a few vintage Rigger hydroplaneers perked my interest. I'm dying to build one but it has to be brushless electric. I've got access to motors....speed controls, Lipo and Life batt packs and most of all real desire to build something with my hands. People like myself need to see people like you attaining amazing results.
Finally someone has actually built an exceptionally beautiful craft.
OMG, better than great job in my book. Gorgeous, sharp, cool and many thanks for sharing. ten thumbs UP for you.
A Master at work can do anything . I admire the creativity . What's next ? Scale Hydro's are a favorite .
Thanks. That's an in line twin engine airboat under way (look for Perry pump vid to see engines), fitting it in between fiddling with electric guitars at the moment :-)
That is probably the nicest air boat I have ever seen. Very very Sweet. Good job.
2-RAW-COOP Cooper - Thank you, you're very kind.
Excellent job, beautiful!
Amazing Build Great work! Nothing but appreciation for you and your skills! but that boat is way too Awesome for that stock airplane exhaust! Let that beautiful boat Breathe and Scream like it does just standing there! Nice! Hands Down the coolest looking Airboat I've ever seen now lets get a tuned pipe on it and make it GO!
I've got a hot Alpha engine to go in it at some point, the pipe will come with it. But I'll come back to that as I've much other stuff to do. Thanks for the compliment :-)
Stunning bro, everyone always tell me how talented I am with my builds... But I just say eeehhh, it's not the best...
But yours is...
Thank you. I'm pleased to report this boat is still in use and looks much the same.
Excellent free hand work. That is the most fun way. I just built a flatbottom tractor airboat with a K&B .65 Glow Engine and vane stearing and was wondering if I should add a water rudder. I have a ton of old balsa water ski production blanks, so I simply used a foam boogie board as the starting plug and planked the whole boogie board top, sides and bottom with 3/8" balsa sheathing and polyester fiberglassed he bottom and sides with a turned up balsa nose. It is quite heavy. The next one will be hollow and light. As you know, real hydroplanes barely float and foam is deceptively heavy, so I doubt if light weight carbon fiber is any advantage in your application. Carbon fiber holds no advantage over fiberglass in a heavy hydroplane, but I understand you were doing for the carbon fiber laying experience. It appears the trimaran types of model hydroplanes are the fastest with airscrews.
Dude, that boat is sweeeeet. Very clean build!
David Anderson thanks for the compliment, appreciated.
Man , you are an artist !
Ross Fraser your too kind. Thank you
Hi. Can you please tell me how you got the glow plug on top when the engine in upside down? Is that the radio box on the bottom? Thank you, and compliments for an exellent job.
HI, thanks for the compliment.
The boat uses a 'remote glow adaptor'. A spring loaded cap, similar to a spark plug cap on a car, fits to the plug and runs to a connector which is the same as a glow plug's shape so a regular starter can be used. They are also available with 3.5mm plugs to connect if wanted. These are intended for use on aircraft with cowled motors, and work just fine. So long as you know your engine and starting is reliable there's no problem having limited access to the plug itself, on this boat they only come out for replacement, floods etc are dealt with by turning the motor by hand with the exhaust side down.
Yes, the radio was in the bottom. This has worked out fine, the boat is still active to this day. But, I'd probably not do it that way again. It was only an after thought as being easy to put the radio in there, as it was never intended to be run when built first so there was no allowance for hatches etc.
@@JesHill Thank you for your enswers.
Amazing you've moved beyond just model building and created an art form , im not being critical. I realize you were staying with a theme but , I was almost saddened wen you put color over that beautiful aluminum work , I've been a scratch builder most of my life and have spent days on making aluminum parts from t-6 road sign aluminum lol pots pans and a few other sources. However I see your finished product and truly respect your workmanship I tripped across your video by accident . But am now a subscriber I look forward to seeing more of your work thanks for sharing .ps the carbon fiber is awesome..!
Thanks, I appreciate your comments. I started anodising aluminium parts simply because of tarnishing issues. I'm a Design Engineer in the marine industry and whilst fresh water lakes are hardly the same as sea water for risk I do like my models to be well presented, and experience shows that anodising goes a long way to help these little parts stay in good order. I get what you mean though, my dad used to make live steam engines and I always liked the visual evidence of the craft to be seen in those copious hand made brass parts before they were painted.
Great job !!! Possible to have plans?
78silvain : no plans for this one, there's some information explaining why in the description.
Awesome video where can I get one?
Reese RC!!! Thanks. Only by scratch building one. It's all in the description.
Nice build man, very nice indeed, badass boat for sure, love the finish, looks expensive as frigg hehe :D
the boat design is excellent. how did you shape with just sandpaper? Was not it difficult? I got foam and started. I inspired you. but I will use the edf engine. I hope it will be like that. I will design the hull as f1
Rc Boat TR. Use coarse sandpaper, I use 40 and 80 grit. I stick the sandpaper to boards using double sided tape. Use rounded blocks of wood to stick sandpaper to for concave shapes.This helps to generate accurate surfaces. Mark lines on the foam to shape down to and use paper templates to ensure symmetry. The foam is easily shaped down with such coarse abrasives.
Rc Boat TR. I also use a coarse file, actually a 'rasp', which has been heated and bent so that it can work into recesses. For a quick and even top to the sponson decks an electric planer was used. Most of these tools are in the video.
Thank you very much for your advice. I hope this is successful.
Great job ..... what a beautiful design
how much is the cc of the engine ? and what is the max. speed ?
Ahmed Kasm thanks. It's a .15, I've never measured speed, but it's not very fast. I do have a powerful .21 to go in it one day.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Awesome build! ERxcept the motor... Swap to brushless power...
What kind of foam board are you using
devin buchanana: Owens Corning Formular 250. In my case it was packing material used on products imported from the USA.
Jes437 thank you and how much did the whole build cost
devin buchanana: difficult to say, it was entirely made using offcuts, spares and left over materials. I would estimate around £50 of material consumption, plus engine and radio.
Jes437 OK thank you for the inspiration
So.. What size 2 stroke? .40 ,.50, .60? And the length and width of the boat to support the engine and weight. Or was there another way you came up with the ratio.. It looked pretty well balanced in the water.. I going to build something like that with an OS.60 and am trying to fit it figured out.
UNBELIEVABLY♥GORGEOUS💯
Hallo ...das ist ja was geiles ....kann man von dem Modell ein Plan haben.....oder wo bekomme ich den Plan her
Klaus Scheibe danke. Es qibt keine Plan. Bitte lesen Sie die Beschreibung.
Great job. How did you get the foam to be so smooth? Glass and resin or other method.
Thanks. Amongst the pictures you'll find wooden and metal sanding blocks for shaping the foam and glass fibre layups to get a flat finish. I find it best to have sharp fresh coarse grit abrasive paper under the blocks on the foam. To generate a spot on surface on the glass fibre those metal blocks are my best friend. They are ground tool steel stock, and the best thing to hit high spots without too much excavation of the surface elsewhere. Alternating directions of travel when sanding keeps the low spots visible, and generally helps to show where pressure needs to be placed on the blocks. To reduce the sanding needed, when using chopped strand mat apply the glass fibre resin using a spreader and only stipple it gently with a brush after to consolidate the fibres, this helps to reduce mounding of the fibres. Wick off any excess resin using a brush. A layer of fine woven cloth on top of the sanded chopped strand mat, again with resin applied by spreader, leaves a surface with little left to rub down. I use epoxy resins over polyesters.
I have a question. How can I remove the foam in the interior after covering the model with glass fiber?
Generally it's not necessary, it's very light and provides buoyancy and compressive strength. In essence the idea is that the skin provides a tough outer to a foam boat. Removing the foam as part of the process is sometimes done, but not often. If it was built with that in mind often the foam used might be easily soluble with suitable chemical solvents, such as polystyrene. If you need to remove some like I for radio gear etc then the same carving/sanding and filing will do it. In my case I ploughed in with a B&D Powerfile.
I understand. I need to remove the foam from a section because I'll add esc and lipo to that part. But I like the idea of the chemical that melted the foam. Many thanks for your help. I can do something with you.
What glue did you use to glue the foam together
Very thin smears of epoxy, just enough to hold together for shaping.
@@JesHill thanks
You sould make a mold of it and try and marked the model. It will sell very good as it is a beautiful little boat.
Maybe a retirement project for me ;-)
I've added a link in the description to a running video.
That is soo fuken cool!
Hi again. What's ur motor CC?
It's a .15cu in.
I bought an Alpha .21 which would suit it better, but haven't fitted it yet.
Bellissimo !!!conplimenti !!
Nice airboat! Just replace the Thunder Tiger engine and strap on a Jett .56 LX either SJ or BSE on that model - it sure will be fast! Don't forget that engine comes with Jett decals too :)
The decals would go on the tool box :-) . Seriously though the Jett engines clearly have a good rep, loads of guys on the forum this was first presented on had a lot of good to say about them. I've not seen them in the UK though. I have got an Alpha engine which was destined to be converted to go in this, something that will come in time though, other fish to fry :-).
Your craftmanship is excellent Dude make it brushless motor instead of engine !!
GAS RULES
You sir are a master craftsmen. Complete symmetry carving foam by hand. I'm not impressed by much. I operate CP helicopters and build extreme surface mod'd vehicles. The Obi Wan of Outrigger air boats.
Tiger Tank thanks for the compliment, much appreciated
Not that I don't have enough rc dreams and distractions....but a few vintage Rigger hydroplaneers perked my interest. I'm dying to build one but it has to be brushless electric. I've got access to motors....speed controls, Lipo and Life batt packs and most of all real desire to build something with my hands. People like myself need to see people like you attaining amazing results.
and when I say brushless electric.....I meant only an Airboat.
If you have a project hull or any ideas. I have determination and heart....Tigertank0605.cw@gmail.com
Have you seen the 'Selph Inflicted' hydro air boat series? I'll send some pics.