not really kit, but getting a professional bike fit, and maybe costum innersoles for cycling and running shoes(but innersoles only if it is neccesary, else it is a waste of money)
Purely kitwise : best upgrade is a powermeter. Best overall upgrade any triathlete can make : hire a good coach, you'll make more progression than any piece of kit can deliver.
Latex innertubes - 8 quid for a pair, measurably lighter, but more importantly, measurably lower rolling resistance too. Literally no reason to not use them for racing.
Regarding the clip-on aerobars, you can add them to most any alloy handlebar with a round cross-sectional profile but the same is NOT true for "most" composite carbon handlebars. If you use a composite handlebar, check your model to make sure they are designed for aerobars before adding them. The composite handlebars that are designed for them, will have a reinforced clamping area that extends beyond the center stem clamp area by a couple of inches or more on each side. This should be marked on the handlebar. I've used composite handlebars from Ritchey and Profile Design that have the extra reinforcement for aerobars. As for protecting the handlebars with tape, forget it! I think safety is much more important and the safest way I know to attach clip-on aerobars to any handlebar -- especially composite handlebars -- is to mount the aerobar brackets directly to the handlebar with friction paste like Park Tool SAC-2. You can exert a lot of leverage when you push on the aerobars and you do not want them to slip and rotate on the handlebar. It could lead to a wreck! A good friction compound lets you achieve a secure, no-slip mounting without applying excess torque to the mounting bracket bolts.
razordimeback it is important. The GP4k/5k pattern was originally designed for cornering traction, but a secondary effect is that it disturbs the air initially when it touches the bike, this slight turbulence is a minor gain, but a gain nonetheless. Source is GCN.
Race belt, BodyGlide. Not cheap but definitely great value...indoor trainer...such an efficient way to get workouts in in all weather and when you are short on time
Here's the best value upgrade, lose weight ! While many of the triathletes are skinny as can be, some do it for weight loss and have an extra 5-10 kg or even more. Lose that weight and you will gain minutes, but also gain confidence and the ability to just not fit into any old clothes anymore - best value!
I think most triathletes are skinny enough. In fact I've been amazed showing up at a race with so many great athletes and most of them having emaciated physiques.
One bit of caution you should have included is before you put clip on aerobars on make sure your handlebars are compatible, some carbon bars are and some aren't, as an example 3T's Team series is clip on compatible but the same bar in their LTD series is not compatible.
Great beginner suggestions. Maybe a video on the next level upgrades. Say you bought a stock TT bike - what are some valuable upgrades. Crank? Buttom bracket? The little wheels on the back shifter? Thanks.
Lighter inner tubes(eg. latex) or tubeless tires and perhaps a saddle bottle cage is more aerodynamic than a down-tube bottle cage even if it is an aero one.
Best upgrade is a good pair of tri shorts (especially if you are doing longer than Olympic distance). You can ride harder when your backside isn't sore! Invest $$ in gear that makes you comfortable. One major caution on the aero bottles - they are not so useful for mid and full distance events when you need to take on-course nutrition.
jmkmckenny With aero wheels, a 25 is more aero in the front since it gives a better alignment with the braking surface as most aero wheels are wider. Also, I've seen the rear tire has no aero effect until you get over 32 mm so you could run a 28, if your bike can fit it.
the thing about the 25mm vs the 23mm...depends on the outer width of the rim. You need a really wide rim to actually take a 25mm AND be aero. A 23mm blows up to about 25mm on my 16c rim. Wider rims like from ENVE or Zipp should work better with 25mm that blow up to mor esth like 26-27mm. Also, srly a 23mm with 103 psi in the rear and 98 psi in the front(im 70kg) isn't all that uncomfortable. I literally did a 210km distance(not too sporty) with that without any problem.
For the bike, the absolute best money you can spend is getting a good bike fitting done. After that, I'd say good tires, wheels and if you have the money, a power meter.
2:25 The best value upgrade are still safety pins, they can be found in most kitchen drawers and hide away the parachute on your back (+ prevent you from losing your number and maybe time).
No contest on this one. Cheapest ones cost less than three Camelback waterbottles and work just fine. Elastic laces are the next one. I use Xtenex, which allow different tightness on different parts of the foot.
I know it is not the best 'value' upgrade, but I am getting a new bike next year and need some input regarding a value upgrade once I get it, aero bars. I am getting a new #Canyon Ultimate CF SL or SLX (Thanks to #GCN for making me fall in love with this bike btw). My problem lies in the bar options with each model. The aero model I want has the integrated aero drop bars (sexy AS). However, I cannot mount aero bars after the fact due to the elongated shape. I am only doing sprint & olympic distance races for the next couple years and will get a proper tribike again for Ironman races, but do you think I should not get the integrated bars and opt for a lower tier model so I can mount #ValueUpgrade aero bars? Or should I just ride the integrated bars flat out on the hoods like the #GCN guys often do in aero tests? #FirstWorldProblem Thank you for your input #GTN. Keep up the great videos!
Rachel Perrin that’s relative to wear you live and race. I find that people buy an aero helmet without realizing how hot they are. Something like a Specialized Evade is a good compromise for “aero with air flow”
I have an canyon aeroad with a single piece bar and stem ( aero cockpit). Does anybody know a brand that sells tt bars for this, Canyon does not sell it.
I think you may be stuck. I "upgraded" to an aero cockpit a year back, but couldn't get any of my clip-on accessories (lights, phone, etc) to mount correctly - and I have to have my light for commuting after dark. sold it and went back to my standard road bars.
Mikael Goh how is this so difficult for you? I have these tyres on my bike right now. The pattern is opposite on the other side of the tyre which you can't see here. So if you reversed the tyre it would be the same. The packaging says there is no rotation direction. Try it and you'll see.
It's not a "split nose" seat, but rather a seat with the nose removed. By calling it a split nose seat you encourage people to sit too far back on it and because of how wide it is people find it uncomfortable. By properly calling it a seat with the nose removed it makes more sense that you should sit forward on it as if the nose was there.
rent tri bike for race....but if you care about getting faster, eventually you will upgrade to tri bike, so why waste the money with the aero clip ons in the first place?
Maybe for training in race position?? And who the hell rents a bike for every race they do... that's wasting a lot more money than the cost of clip-on bars!
the cassette choice was realy surprising to me. Expected a 12-25t or even 12-23 cassette for flat courses. I use a 11-25 and it always feels like one gear is missing. the 11-28 is just like a regular pro setup in the TDF, same goes for steeper bits with the 11-32. Doesn't sound all that diffrent to cycling. My future setup is gonna be a 56t or 58t chainring with a 1x11 Sram force with a ultegra/105 12-25 cassette for all the smaller jumps. Im not gonna see any mountains with this, but on flat courses, i will always know that i got the right gear and also a good chainline
As far as I'm aware only one study has been published re leg shaving and wind tunnel aerodynamics, using human test models, and it's results were consistent with significant gains, in the region of 15 Watt saving I think
Here's a video topic suggestion: short swim (Olympic distance and less) with a wetsuit and just in a tri suit. I don't have a wetsuit because 1. they're expensive and 2. the swim leg is my strongest so I feel I do not need it plus 3. it saves T1 time not having to get it off. Your thoughts?
I think this might depend on the swimmer: if time saved with wetsuit > time to remove it in T1, it's worth it. There might also be a fatigue-saving factor which could have spillover effect onto the bike and/or run. It would still be fun to see if a swimmer with same cadence + heartrate (since there's no swimming power meter) would swim faster with a wetsuit and at what pace/100 m does the tradeoff become worth it or not?
skykaptain007 I also don't have a wetsuit I live in Florida so the waters always warm plus I'm only 17 and have been a competitive swimmer for years so I'm always first out of the water so don't need any help
I come from a competitive swimming background (I've coached age group for the last 5 years) and I do my open water workouts in a speedo up here in Minnesota :P
totally do not need the wetsuit for olympic and sprint distance tris. You can tell who is trying to make up for a lack of practice by spending money and buying a bunch of worthless stuff that at best will save them a couple seconds and at worst even add time in transition
Could you make a comparison between wet-suit and just tri-suit? I have swimming background, but never had the chance to swim in a wet-suit for time. Would be interesting to know if it worth the money
I thought this was an "upgrade" video!? Who chooses to ride 22mm tyres over 25 as standard?? Also, I'm fairly sure most road bikes and tt bikes for that matter come with 11-28t! The rest were good tips, although I'm struggling to see how a proper triathlon wetsuit is good value?
Have you tried lace-up cycling shoes? After putting in elastic shoelaces for my running shoes, I thought I'd give them a try in my cycling shoes. I love it. I started with them nice and loose, and slowly adjusted them so they fit tight enough for my sprints, but loose enough that I could ride for hours. Super easy to slip in and out of. I know most pro tri-athletes go for big velcro swathes on the top of their shoes, but I prefer to only have one pair of cycling shoes, and these elastic ones do it for me.
I see you talk about the larger cassette, but on my 9-speed I have then found that I need a new derailleur to cope with more than 27 teeth, which in the states turns out to be another 60 dollars or so. Especially as the older derailleurs are difficult to find.
I would like to see a comparison between a lightweight non aero climbing bike with clipon aero bars vs. a high end aero bike, like a Aeroad CFR or Pinarello Dogma F riding on the hoods.
race belt already done up, just step into it after the swim. on the opposite side be wary of calf sleeves on in the swim under the wetsuit to save time as could cause cramp! conversely they will help in the run so bite the bullet and save for t2
孙斌 they also don't hold as much fluid and they are awkward for one rider today pack 10 in his jersey and deliver them to his teammates. Also they are more prone to ejection, I lost my only water bottle on my last Sprint race. An ejected bottle is a potential crash.
Talking of upgrades - I am about to upgrade my TT (Tri) bike to electronic shifting. I have alway used Shimano and I have Ultrga Di2 on my road bike, Which I love,. So should I go with Ultrga Di2 on my TT bike or go to eTap ??? Which would you choose???
Maca - I was leaning towards eTap because of the two battery set up. I heard you get about 1000km out of the rear battery. And you can swap to get home. I get and got about 1400km out of my Di2. when the battery went flat I first lost front shifting and then 50km later I lost rear shifting before I got home. I know both systems do have LED indiction of battery level.
It's cool to tell us this, but how about you get out there and prove/demonstrate the gains with "science" (as GCN would put it)? Second point, I would add a new stem with the aero bar mod. I run a 110 x 35 degree stem upside down. Position is really aggressive! Will agree with other commenters about latex tubes and shaving, at least based on what I've heard. Plus a cheap aero helmet should be high on the list.
$100 for Wheelbuilder disc covers or around $50 for DIY. I would think that has a greater impact on your Aerodynamics than an aero bottle for the same cost. The only downside is you don't get the womp womp sound...
How would you compare riding with a rear wheel cover vs a full on disc wheel? Similar aero benefit without the added weight? How much faster did you become compared to standard non covered rear wheel?
If you believe wheelbuilders wind tunnel testing it is very similar to a full disc. www.wheelbuilder.com/images/D/wheelbuilder_wind_tunnel_data_all.jpg At some point I want to do a test around Fiesta Island with my box section, my wheel cover, and my 65mm deep Chinese wheel to see what the difference is, but I haven't had the time yet.
Let us know the best value piece of kit you purchased in the comments below 👇
not really kit, but getting a professional bike fit, and maybe costum innersoles for cycling and running shoes(but innersoles only if it is neccesary, else it is a waste of money)
Purely kitwise : best upgrade is a powermeter. Best overall upgrade any triathlete can make : hire a good coach, you'll make more progression than any piece of kit can deliver.
Either my aerobars or my tacx flux. training with zwift really bumped up my FTP.
aerobars, smart trainer and trainerroad sub
Latex innertubes - 8 quid for a pair, measurably lighter, but more importantly, measurably lower rolling resistance too. Literally no reason to not use them for racing.
👍 Don't forget to check out GTN if you love triathlon
Regarding the clip-on aerobars, you can add them to most any alloy handlebar with a round cross-sectional profile but the same is NOT true for "most" composite carbon handlebars. If you use a composite handlebar, check your model to make sure they are designed for aerobars before adding them. The composite handlebars that are designed for them, will have a reinforced clamping area that extends beyond the center stem clamp area by a couple of inches or more on each side. This should be marked on the handlebar. I've used composite handlebars from Ritchey and Profile Design that have the extra reinforcement for aerobars.
As for protecting the handlebars with tape, forget it! I think safety is much more important and the safest way I know to attach clip-on aerobars to any handlebar -- especially composite handlebars -- is to mount the aerobar brackets directly to the handlebar with friction paste like Park Tool SAC-2. You can exert a lot of leverage when you push on the aerobars and you do not want them to slip and rotate on the handlebar. It could lead to a wreck! A good friction compound lets you achieve a secure, no-slip mounting without applying excess torque to the mounting bracket bolts.
Your front tyre (GP4000S) is on backwards, I know it's probably not important, but there's an arrow on the side and yours are backwards :)
razordimeback it is important. The GP4k/5k pattern was originally designed for cornering traction, but a secondary effect is that it disturbs the air initially when it touches the bike, this slight turbulence is a minor gain, but a gain nonetheless. Source is GCN.
Race belt, BodyGlide. Not cheap but definitely great value...indoor trainer...such an efficient way to get workouts in in all weather and when you are short on time
GTN, about 4 years too late but these videos are awesome. That is all, Alex.
Power meter to help with training has been the best value item to add to my bike!
Here's the best value upgrade, lose weight ! While many of the triathletes are skinny as can be, some do it for weight loss and have an extra 5-10 kg or even more. Lose that weight and you will gain minutes, but also gain confidence and the ability to just not fit into any old clothes anymore - best value!
I think most triathletes are skinny enough. In fact I've been amazed showing up at a race with so many great athletes and most of them having emaciated physiques.
Agreed. Dialing in nutrition for max output at minimal weight might be the greatest advantage for AGers.
Ok boomer
One bit of caution you should have included is before you put clip on aerobars on make sure your handlebars are compatible, some carbon bars are and some aren't, as an example 3T's Team series is clip on compatible but the same bar in their LTD series is not compatible.
Great tip about the electrical tape on the bars before using clip on bars! Wish I'd done that before!
It's a great way to protect your kit!
Great beginner suggestions. Maybe a video on the next level upgrades. Say you bought a stock TT bike - what are some valuable upgrades. Crank? Buttom bracket? The little wheels on the back shifter? Thanks.
im really waiting for the GSBN
global Snow boarding network.
Easy cleanup , came as described fast. Great product
Always check your tyre direction when fitting too...!! ;-)
Lighter inner tubes(eg. latex) or tubeless tires and perhaps a saddle bottle cage is more aerodynamic than a down-tube bottle cage even if it is an aero one.
Thank you so much for this! I've actually never seen that type of a saddle, it looks like much less of a pain in the bum xD thanks again!
Bikefiting is the best value upgrade - good for your body and health and for the results on bike and run!
Best upgrade is a good pair of tri shorts (especially if you are doing longer than Olympic distance). You can ride harder when your backside isn't sore! Invest $$ in gear that makes you comfortable. One major caution on the aero bottles - they are not so useful for mid and full distance events when you need to take on-course nutrition.
electrical tape causes the bars to "slide" if you apply any force to them... better mount aero bars without tape.
I have some clip on aero bars (just haven't been bothered to attach them yet), I have the elastic laces, I have the tri-suit, and I have the wetsuit!
I suggest that you shown an uprade for tri running shoes
Great video keep up the good videos
Awesome & Thanks :)
I'd say a best-value upgrade is to find a proper coach ;)
A regular bottle cage with a few zip ties makes for a nice bottle between the armes.
put 23mm tyre on front for aerodynamics and 25mm on rear for rolling resistance
jmkmckenny With aero wheels, a 25 is more aero in the front since it gives a better alignment with the braking surface as most aero wheels are wider. Also, I've seen the rear tire has no aero effect until you get over 32 mm so you could run a 28, if your bike can fit it.
the thing about the 25mm vs the 23mm...depends on the outer width of the rim. You need a really wide rim to actually take a 25mm AND be aero. A 23mm blows up to about 25mm on my 16c rim. Wider rims like from ENVE or Zipp should work better with 25mm that blow up to mor esth like 26-27mm. Also, srly a 23mm with 103 psi in the rear and 98 psi in the front(im 70kg) isn't all that uncomfortable. I literally did a 210km distance(not too sporty) with that without any problem.
Great channel! 👍😀
I would really be glad if you come up with a show on the subject of running shoes in triathlon. 😀
You forgot it add tri shoes for the cycling
front wheel tyre direction is backwards
No GTN - trisuits?!
My ideal cassette would be 11-31 with jumps of 2 teeth. 2 tooth is Just right and you can climb well because its just like 11 32.
Trying to train smart and loose fat = free upgrade
For the bike, the absolute best money you can spend is getting a good bike fitting done. After that, I'd say good tires, wheels and if you have the money, a power meter.
4:40 wait... 5 to 10 minutes to put on?
Can u give more information on the saddle bar, to convert from a road bike to tri bike?
Nice video.... congratulations....
What size for 5'1 height?
2:25 The best value upgrade are still safety pins, they can be found in most kitchen drawers and hide away the parachute on your back (+ prevent you from losing your number and maybe time).
Tubeless tyres maybe, I don't know
00:32 Bar tape cut the wrong way, rookie mistake, also front tire is mounted backwards.
Clip on aero bars on road bike
No contest on this one. Cheapest ones cost less than three Camelback waterbottles and work just fine.
Elastic laces are the next one. I use Xtenex, which allow different tightness on different parts of the foot.
I know it is not the best 'value' upgrade, but I am getting a new bike next year and need some input regarding a value upgrade once I get it, aero bars.
I am getting a new #Canyon Ultimate CF SL or SLX (Thanks to #GCN for making me fall in love with this bike btw). My problem lies in the bar options with each model. The aero model I want has the integrated aero drop bars (sexy AS). However, I cannot mount aero bars after the fact due to the elongated shape. I am only doing sprint & olympic distance races for the next couple years and will get a proper tribike again for Ironman races, but do you think I should not get the integrated bars and opt for a lower tier model so I can mount #ValueUpgrade aero bars? Or should I just ride the integrated bars flat out on the hoods like the #GCN guys often do in aero tests? #FirstWorldProblem
Thank you for your input #GTN. Keep up the great videos!
Needs more hashtags.
Any recommendation for helmets?
Rachel Perrin that’s relative to wear you live and race.
I find that people buy an aero helmet without realizing how hot they are. Something like a Specialized Evade is a good compromise for “aero with air flow”
Are wet suite legal
I have an canyon aeroad with a single piece bar and stem ( aero cockpit). Does anybody know a brand that sells tt bars for this, Canyon does not sell it.
I think you may be stuck. I "upgraded" to an aero cockpit a year back, but couldn't get any of my clip-on accessories (lights, phone, etc) to mount correctly - and I have to have my light for commuting after dark.
sold it and went back to my standard road bars.
Placing a plastic shopping bag over your hands or feet as you stick them thru the sleeves speeds putting on your wet-suit tremendously!!
also body glide
Isn't that GP4000SII tire direction inverted installed? 0.o
how do you know?
They are symmetrical. The pattern is reversed on the other side of the tyre. So there's no reverse direction. Continental says this on their packaging
Mikael Goh no they don't. If he flipped it the pattern is same on the other side.
Mikael Goh how is this so difficult for you? I have these tyres on my bike right now. The pattern is opposite on the other side of the tyre which you can't see here. So if you reversed the tyre it would be the same. The packaging says there is no rotation direction. Try it and you'll see.
100% back to front 😁
La vida
Why does he pronounce put like putt. Once you notice it you can’t unhear it
10 second intro is too long!
It's not a "split nose" seat, but rather a seat with the nose removed. By calling it a split nose seat you encourage people to sit too far back on it and because of how wide it is people find it uncomfortable. By properly calling it a seat with the nose removed it makes more sense that you should sit forward on it as if the nose was there.
no offense but aero bars to a road bike is an amateur move
cicirunner - this video is on Best Value upgrades, not Pro kit
as long as we are instantly getting faster... it does not matter...
It's also $50 not $5000...
rent tri bike for race....but if you care about getting faster, eventually you will upgrade to tri bike, so why waste the money with the aero clip ons in the first place?
Maybe for training in race position?? And who the hell rents a bike for every race they do... that's wasting a lot more money than the cost of clip-on bars!
the cassette choice was realy surprising to me. Expected a 12-25t or even 12-23 cassette for flat courses. I use a 11-25 and it always feels like one gear is missing. the 11-28 is just like a regular pro setup in the TDF, same goes for steeper bits with the 11-32. Doesn't sound all that diffrent to cycling.
My future setup is gonna be a 56t or 58t chainring with a 1x11 Sram force with a ultegra/105 12-25 cassette for all the smaller jumps. Im not gonna see any mountains with this, but on flat courses, i will always know that i got the right gear and also a good chainline
Shaving the legs is free and probably similar aero benefit at least to an aero bottle.
In fact the aero gain is really really low
As far as I'm aware only one study has been published re leg shaving and wind tunnel aerodynamics, using human test models, and it's results were consistent with significant gains, in the region of 15 Watt saving I think
sharkdom haha! Can you show us this 'research'? Was it commissioned by Gillette?
@AnTeallach2011 actually it was in Specialized's 'Win Tunnel' series. look it up on UA-cam!
Janos Zakarias no.
A great free upgrade is to work on your body position and what about an aero helmet?
Here's a video topic suggestion: short swim (Olympic distance and less) with a wetsuit and just in a tri suit. I don't have a wetsuit because 1. they're expensive and 2. the swim leg is my strongest so I feel I do not need it plus 3. it saves T1 time not having to get it off. Your thoughts?
I think this might depend on the swimmer: if time saved with wetsuit > time to remove it in T1, it's worth it. There might also be a fatigue-saving factor which could have spillover effect onto the bike and/or run. It would still be fun to see if a swimmer with same cadence + heartrate (since there's no swimming power meter) would swim faster with a wetsuit and at what pace/100 m does the tradeoff become worth it or not?
depends on the swimmer and the water temp. You can find Xterra wetsuits for
skykaptain007 I also don't have a wetsuit I live in Florida so the waters always warm plus I'm only 17 and have been a competitive swimmer for years so I'm always first out of the water so don't need any help
I come from a competitive swimming background (I've coached age group for the last 5 years) and I do my open water workouts in a speedo up here in Minnesota :P
totally do not need the wetsuit for olympic and sprint distance tris. You can tell who is trying to make up for a lack of practice by spending money and buying a bunch of worthless stuff that at best will save them a couple seconds and at worst even add time in transition
A tt helmet
Could you make a comparison between wet-suit and just tri-suit? I have swimming background, but never had the chance to swim in a wet-suit for time. Would be interesting to know if it worth the money
Ive seen people on normal roadbikes with the triathlon saddle....
That's because it's not a "triathlon saddle" it's a saddle, and can be used on any type of bike to increase confort
I thought this was an "upgrade" video!? Who chooses to ride 22mm tyres over 25 as standard?? Also, I'm fairly sure most road bikes and tt bikes for that matter come with 11-28t! The rest were good tips, although I'm struggling to see how a proper triathlon wetsuit is good value?
Have you tried lace-up cycling shoes? After putting in elastic shoelaces for my running shoes, I thought I'd give them a try in my cycling shoes. I love it. I started with them nice and loose, and slowly adjusted them so they fit tight enough for my sprints, but loose enough that I could ride for hours. Super easy to slip in and out of. I know most pro tri-athletes go for big velcro swathes on the top of their shoes, but I prefer to only have one pair of cycling shoes, and these elastic ones do it for me.
2.38 is a triathlete cornering - AND NOT CRASHING!
I see you talk about the larger cassette, but on my 9-speed I have then found that I need a new derailleur to cope with more than 27 teeth, which in the states turns out to be another 60 dollars or so. Especially as the older derailleurs are difficult to find.
Gp4000s11 tyres are directional. Should only be fitted one way !!!! They have a directional arrows on the sidewall.
I would like to see a comparison between a lightweight non aero climbing bike with clipon aero bars vs. a high end aero bike, like a Aeroad CFR or Pinarello Dogma F riding on the hoods.
race belt already done up, just step into it after the swim. on the opposite side be wary of calf sleeves on in the swim under the wetsuit to save time as could cause cramp! conversely they will help in the run so bite the bullet and save for t2
PLEASE TEST THE AERODYNAMIC ADVANTAGES OF BOTTLES BEHIND THE SADDLE VS THE EFFORT REQUIRED TO GRAB SAID BOTTLES WHILST RACING.
I understand why the TDF riders don't use aerobars, but why not aero water bottles?
孙斌 because it's against the rules. Also it would make things impossible for neutral service.
孙斌 they also don't hold as much fluid and they are awkward for one rider today pack 10 in his jersey and deliver them to his teammates. Also they are more prone to ejection, I lost my only water bottle on my last Sprint race. An ejected bottle is a potential crash.
Uci regulations
Aerohelmet, Cycling/Triathlon shoes, maybe a razor? :D
Some of these are my fav!
Great vid gtn. Thanks
where is Heather lately?
Could you do a vlog on best economy bikes?
Already love you :*
Talking of upgrades - I am about to upgrade my TT (Tri) bike to electronic shifting. I have alway used Shimano and I have Ultrga Di2 on my road bike, Which I love,. So should I go with Ultrga Di2 on my TT bike or go to eTap ??? Which would you choose???
Maca - I was leaning towards eTap because of the two battery set up. I heard you get about 1000km out of the rear battery. And you can swap to get home. I get and got about 1400km out of my Di2. when the battery went flat I first lost front shifting and then 50km later I lost rear shifting before I got home. I know both systems do have LED indiction of battery level.
Can you also do triatlon with a mountain bike when you can't affprd a new bike
Absolutely! 🙂
It's cool to tell us this, but how about you get out there and prove/demonstrate the gains with "science" (as GCN would put it)? Second point, I would add a new stem with the aero bar mod. I run a 110 x 35 degree stem upside down. Position is really aggressive!
Will agree with other commenters about latex tubes and shaving, at least based on what I've heard. Plus a cheap aero helmet should be high on the list.
Matthew King we're bringing all of that to you. We're only a week or so in to the channel. Keep an eye out 😊
No worries! Sorry if I sounded harsh/critical, keep up the good work.
Matthew King not at all, I just wanted you to know that we have that content coming too. Glad you're enjoying it
what aero bottle was that?
Oolong Johnson
why is there a garmin-mount under your saddle at 6:14?
Action cam view from their balls?
Robert K cable ties are used to reduce the gap between the two prongs on the saddle as some people feel it's more comfortable
Also - Rear wheel covers to convert a normal wheel into a disc, definitely helped my bike splits for much less money than a full disc wheel!
$100 for Wheelbuilder disc covers or around $50 for DIY. I would think that has a greater impact on your Aerodynamics than an aero bottle for the same cost. The only downside is you don't get the womp womp sound...
How would you compare riding with a rear wheel cover vs a full on disc wheel? Similar aero benefit without the added weight? How much faster did you become compared to standard non covered rear wheel?
If you believe wheelbuilders wind tunnel testing it is very similar to a full disc. www.wheelbuilder.com/images/D/wheelbuilder_wind_tunnel_data_all.jpg
At some point I want to do a test around Fiesta Island with my box section, my wheel cover, and my 65mm deep Chinese wheel to see what the difference is, but I haven't had the time yet.
Oh cool in SD? I'm in Santa Barbara and have been looking at the TT events they do there. Let me know about your test results.
i even made that myself with cost only $7
I've just bought my first aero bars two days ago and it's the best upgrade I made! Slowly preparing myself for first triathlon race haha! :)