I'm not a knife maker, but I have have one of these which I've used to reshape and re-profile many an axe head, machete, lawn mower, and bush hog blade. It's removed a bunch of metal over five years or so that I've abused it, and it's never faltered. It's refreshing to see a professional of Walter's caliber reviewing equipment like this.
I have had the Delta version of this for over 30 years and, with the occasional bearing replacement, it is still going strong. It even has a flex shaft attachment that I rarely use. I use this for tools, part deburring, wood and metal profiling. Buy good belts, and get a crepe rubber belt cleaning block to keep them going. I have a Central machinery version at a second location and it feels a little lighter than my original Delta. Both work well for my uses. Thanks for your objective review. I think if you are getting started, this is a great tool.
This is absolutely not a common sentiment. I have no idea how hard you were grinding but these are much too fast for their size. They're suggested against to beginners because they're so wild with notoriously bad tracking. Also if you're grinding that hard, you're doing it wrong
This video is a prime example of what a master craftsman is capable of doing. Shows how important expertise is. His knowledge trumps all limitations the tool might have. It was a pleasure watching this video sir. Thank you
I have the $85 version with the 5" disc. For my VERY limited use, it is perfect and didn't break the very limited hobby budget. Thanks for an honest review that doesn't just trash-talk the tool because it costs so little.
I have a similar tool. I keep it clean and I respect all of my tools. A budget tool is perfect for a man on a budget. A poor craftsman blames his tools.
I like mine but it shocks me a lot. I read it has some internal issue that causes it. It's not static electricity. I'm in the electric and electronic field for 25 years so i'm not worried about it. cheers
@@drgopta2180 Yeah that's a super common issue with all belt sanders. With most people, it is static electricity and there are a bunch of ways to deal with it. The most common is just to ground the frame and then if you're still having issues, change your belt type or run tinsel over the belt.
It’s because American’s can make this for anywhere near that price. We can’t use near forced labor. I quit buying tools, cars, lots of things. Try to buy things not made in a country that has vowed to destroy my country one way or another. Just saying “pay now or pay later”
WHAT A GREAT REVIEW. I started somewhere, like everyone does. You pointed out a damn good way to jump in, even if garage sales couldn't get you where you wanted to be, and you didn't have the cash to go all in up front [and had to upgrade a bit here and there, as you could afford it]. SIDE NOTE: I'm a woodworker, miner steel player wither, plastic worker, copper plater and so on. I lucked out and scored a delta 1x42 for ten bucks at a garage sale about twenty years ago. Since then, I've added a four wheel grinder I picked up off craigslist [for a couple hundred] (it was a 3,600 RPM thing off a 240 volt motor, but I swapped the original motor for a sewing machine motor and controller (3/4 horse), installed a couple CBN, diamond and stone wheels on it and was off and running. I added a Air Handler buffer to the mix for one hundred (little 1/4 horse with a solid squirrel cage in the cabinet to collect debris All nothing, (air handler aside) compared to your grinders (which my son invested in too). The point of all this is, I'm impressed with this jumping off point.
Mine is the older HF brand/model. I’ve made some really nice knives with it. As a beginning/hobbyist knife maker, I think it’s amazing! Plus, at this price point, it’s not going to totally kill your budget if you have to replace it. I’ve had mine for 3 years and still going strong! I can also get the ceramic belts for it, too. Just take your time using it, be patient and enjoy the process.
I bought one just for sharpening, when the edge needs some re-profiling. I have many decades of practice on stones, but the time saved here is enormous. Just always remember that what can do a good job fast, can ruin a knife just as fast, be sure you can hold your angle every pass. I saw a vid a while back of a professional sharpening shop, and they had a whole wall full of these. It was more practical to have a machine for each grit than it was to change the belts.
I used one of these for about 15 years or so before the motor went out. It worked great for me. I liked that it was a little slower, it made me take my time and get things exactly they way I wanted them. It worked great for reprofiling and repairing blades that people would bring me to fix. I also liked that it was small and took up very little room. Many times I took it to work with me to use . It may be cheap but it did everything I needed it to do.
I originally bought this belt sander to use for tool restoration. It has also been a very useful tool for making knives and grinding bevels on my woodworking tools. I recently bought a leather 1x30 belt, so now I use it to strop my various blades. It might be light duty, but it's been a super useful tool.
I use mine for primary handle shaping. Because it does not dig into the material too fast, even with a 36-grit belt, it's easy to keep things smooth and even.
I have owned and operated one of these small sanders for over 20 years now, for small deburring and small drill bits or lathe tools. I degreed my plate for ease of use, and find this exactly as per cost and need. Cheap and capable of good performance with Zirconia belts on small objects, when not in any hurry. For my main used of all intentions is my Burr-King 4" x 60". I also have the larger Harbor Freight Belt sander with the side wheel, and find it acceptable for larger, soft material objects, but easy to stop and very Endemic for power. For a serious user or knife maker' Buy Nice, or By Twice.
Starting out, i purchased the equivalent of this machine from Princess Auto in Canada. It served me very well. You can definitely make knives with it. I still use it now, even though i built a 2x72 Grinder. It still comes in handy! I would recommend it to anyone starting out.
I had purchased one of these machines for my automotive shop a few years back. I certainly was not expecting much at all for all the reasons you mentioned, but I was also not looking for a machine to handle heavy use. Like you, I also tossed the cheap belt and bought good ones. I have to admit, I was extremely surprised at how well it works. For the money, it is well worth buying one. Awesome stuff as always man. Love your work!
I've had one of these belt sanders for about a decade, and I agree with the assessments made in this video. One thing I should note is that last year the on/off switch on mine failed, but it was easily replaced with a generic rocker switch from Amazon (that fit perfectly) for about $5. These days, mine is relegated almost exclusively to smaller wood working projects.
This is a very fair review. Unlike too many other people, you treated it as what it is, a really inexpensive machine, without constantly complaining that it wasn’t as good as something five to 10 times as much. These machines have their place. If you make knives or anything else for yourself as a hobby where you’re not making a lot of parts, this is fine. If you really like the hobby and want to move more seriously, then after starting with this, move up.
Really good honest video, Thankyou! I use files and a wheel grinder with various wheels. Its what I can afford. I also use a hand drill with different wheel attachments like sanding discs and polishing disc's. Takes me alot longer but ive made some nice stuff. I plan on buying one of these now thanks to your review and the comments. I have found if I take my time and use some ingenuity anything I put my mind too is very doable. Thanks for your Chanel you always give me good ideas.
I love that you still do testing on this type of thing for the benefit of those getting into the hobby. I would have dismissed it out of hand - I could buy two files with that money!
I think we all learn to make do with the tools that we have on hand. Buying a cheap tool from harbor freight is one good option. But there is one thing I'd like to know. When making a knife from an old file, do you anneal the file before you start working it?
That's what I started with, then moved up to a 2x72 when my skills improved and my pocketbook got larger. I still use mine, but only with a leather belt for final stropping, which it does perfectly.
I bought one several years ago for mid thirties and I have no idea what it will do for knifemakers but I would not be without one for a small drill bit sharpener. I use it for very small to 1/2" bits and it gives me great control. Not to thrilled with the channels in the table but I have to say this has been a performer. I always get a better grade of belt but with that it is something I would not be without. I use it every day and it has been without any problems.
The trick to a grinder like this is to hog off most of the material with an angle grinder rough pass. You can get one super cheap at HF too… this will give you several benefits. You’ll get practice with both tools, you’ll save time and money on consumables by saving your belts and you’ll have more fun focusing on making progress instead of trying to grind away an inch of steel for an hour! I’ve had this little grinder and it worked great for me for a long time, because I took care of it, I spent the money I saved on better quality belts and knife steel and I made a few jigs for it that made it safer and faster to use. So yeah… just remember… a poor craftsman blames his tools! You just have to respect your cheap tools instead of thrashing them because they’re cheap. I love Adam Savages method where he says to buy the cheapest tops you can, use them until they break and upgrade with the most expensive you can afford and the best quality that you need! Because you might not even like knife making, so don’t buy a 3k grinder to start. Start small, learn what you like, what features you want or dislike so when you upgrade you know exactly what you want and you can get the best tool for you!
I have 2 mounted back to back on a 12 x 24 " board. C clamp holds it down, 2 different grits, loosen the clamp and spin the rig around and go again. Belt sets are $10 for 30 (!) on Temu. Warning: stopping the motor with excessive loads will burn out the pully/bearings, THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE. I got one of these sanders for $20 because the pully was seized. Matched a bearing and "poured" a new plastic puller around it, bit of sanding and it's now workable. Thanks for the vid.
So.. I'm a hobbyist leatherworker.. Might look into seeing if they ship to Canada cause I can use this to sand my edges flush instead of measuring everything 4 times and then making micro cuts with a knife to clean up my edges... This looks very promising for that, and maybe I'll try a knife of my own too, and then make a sheath for it!
If a 1x30 get you to get into a hobby that you love and make you do something, it worth it. I begin with one and now that I made a 2x72, I keep it to sharpen tig tungsten rod.
I have the Delta clone to this. Bought it with a bunch of tools. Figured I'd throw it in with something else while selling a bigger tool. I like doing that and people seem to like it too. But I still have it! It has every fault Mr. Sorrells mentioned. But I still have it! I do wood and it's saved me tons of hand sanding intricate pieces. I'm just learning how to sharpen stuff with it and again, it's a huge time saver. I just hope my fancy tools don't hurt it when the lights are out! Lol
Mine's probably 10 years old at this point. Still runs great. I don't actually make knives, but lots of sharpening and reshaping/restoring. As well as other regular DIY around the house stuff. They tend to not be put together that well, so I had to grind out a little clearance for the idler arm to move properly and I trued the pulleys to make it run smooth as can be. First things that go are the side and top covers. Then grind the top to allow full access to the top pulley.
I bought one of these a few years ago for sharpening lawn mower blades. It's ok. Not great, but serviceable. Does the job as long as good belts are used. Once the belt gets dull, it takes forever to get an edge. If you push too hard on it it'll stall with very little effort. For the price, it works ok. I use a very aggressive belt too. 36 grit.
I've been using this exact 1x30 belt sander to sharpen mower blades for 15 years, works great. Got a more expensive hobby, buy a better tool, but it's not junk.
1. I've used the same HF belt sander for better than 7 years. Mine has the 5 1/2 in. disk on the side. I paid under $40.00 for it on sale. 1.5. As an aside, I recommend the 4.5 in. disc grinder for cutting stock out. It's light duty as well (at under $20.00 on sale) but great for the hobbiest. 2. The HF abrasives kind'a suck. The belts are usable but not fo long. I'd recomend getting them elsewhere. 3. I tend to do my "grinding" by hand mostly as I enjoy the work. My HF belt sander is used mainly to "cut" the first 1/4 in. of the bevel at the edge to the centerline. As I said, I enjoy the work. 4. Thankyou Mr. Sorrells for your multiple series on knife making. They've been educational as well as inspirational.
I started knife making with a 1x30, like many other have. I made several knives that all turned out good. The disadvantages I saw were with the narrow platen and the amount of time it took to grind compared to a 2x72. If your on the fence about not being able to make a 1x30 work for you don't. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Nice! I picked one of these up when it was on clearance for wood, but I had no idea it was even useable for steel. Honestly I love that I don’t need to care for it. Worst case, it breaks and I now have a light duty induction motor
I got one of these and I use it in my shop for a general grinder change out. The belts doesn't take long to change out a belt. It's small. It doesn't take up a lot of space. We can put it underneath a table someplace. Pull it out just when we need it and put it away. Takes up a lot less space than an actual bench grinder. And the abrasives the belt can be changed out for various different grits and I have a flat grind rather than a round grind when I'm having to shape. Whatever it is that I'm working with and I don't do knife working but somebody else uses it to sharpen knives. They're knives and they have a an attachment that you can pick up on Amazon that gives you an angle. You can either have it going upwards or downwards and make both of them and it works pretty good. He's real happy with it. I use it to do all kinds of stuff all the way up to polishing really fine. Grit all the way down to grinding stuff away and it works and it works great. It may not last 30 years but you know what for the amount of money. If it gives 2 years it works. I'm even considering picking up a second one, but that's how useful and handy. I have found it in my shop. Like I said when it's not a use just take it off the bench and put it on a shelf someplace and it's out of the way. You don't have to have something dedicated. You could move it wherever it is that you're wanting to work
I have the Vonhaus 1x30, very similar to this but has a built in disc sander too. I'll upgrade to a 2x72 as soon as I can afford it but honestly, this little belt grinder has been amazing! I've made everything from little sgian dubhs through Bowie knives up to 1 handed swords using it and it's handled them all just fine, slowly, but fine. For a little under £100 I have no complaints.
I have one of the green ones. It cost a little under $40. Once a year I gather all my knives and my daughters' knives and with a couple of higher grit belts, a 1x30 leather belt, and some polishing compound I bring everything to factory sharp or better. It works great!
Yep, got one of these. The belt doesn't run quite straight, but I've still been able to get some good practice on bevels and it's remarkably quick to grind away 1084
I've had a green Harbor Freight version for over a decade and it is still rolling along. I'm not a knife maker, but I built boats and use this tool for all kinds of detail work on wood, fiberglass and metal. I've altered mine to include vibration reducing base and a quick way to remove the cover forr belt changes. I use the dust port and improved the guide table by drilling multiple holes in the surface t allow air flow. This thing works.
Thanks for a very reasonable review of this tool. I will probably never get into knife making from scratch, but I have other hobbies where this could be useful such as building amateur rockets or making metal brackets for various things.
I have four 1x30 belt grinders, only one is Central Machinery and I use it with a stropping belt. The other three grinders are more notable name brands. With a few minor modifications my 1x30s work great with the correct/proper belt selection. Thank you for this video.
I don't really make knives yet, but do forge tools like chisels and scrapers, as well as sharpening axes, knives, etc that I already have. I picked up a fairly cheap king canada 1x42 disc/belt sander, that has quickly become one of my most used power tools. I replaced the cheap platen with a small piece of 1/4" angle iron, and took the side cover off, but otherwise run it as-is. Well worth every penny, even if I do end up buying, or more likely building, a 2x42 or 2x72 down the road. Another thing worth mentioning about these little grinders, esp this one, is just that. They are SMALL, meaning you can have one in almost any workspace, and tuck it away on a shelf when not needed. Perfect for hobby or occasional use, where space might be more of an issue than cost.
I learned how to grind on one of these and its still going strong. If you dont have a dedicated shop, these are a cheap and cheerful way to speed up your knife making, and you can run them on kitchen counter with a vacuum cleaner hose attached to the side to keep the mess minimal. I personally try and keep them religiously clean because metal filings have a bit of a habit of building up inside the cowling. If you are doing mixed wood and metal work then you risk a flammable build up developing inside. This aside, if you treat it well, it will treat you well.
I bought one of these from Harbor Freight almost two years ago and it's still going strong. I only own two machines I use as grinders to profile and flatten my blades; the 1x30 and a 4x36 adjustable belt sanding station from Bauer. Now that you can get much more aggressive abrasive belts for these machines, I think they're great if you're starting out or just strapped for cash. I still like to file my bevels in by using draw filing at my bench, but these two machines significantly drop the time it takes me to get a blade ready for heat treatment and they also help me process my handle materials quickly as I work with a lot of bone, antler, and horn that I repurpose from the stuff sold as dog treats. I think they're great compared to the alternative of doing everything purely by hand.
did my first 20 blades on a 1x42 delta grinder, finally afforded a Wilmont 2X72. I use that grinder for a lot of other fabrication work now, one of my favorite shop tools.
I have one that I've used fairly extensively. I removed the table and the platen. I use it exclusively as a slack belt for cleaning up convex grinds and putting the final bevel on hollow grinds.
For someone who is only going to make a knife or two on a 0 budget it does the job. I was given mine from a garage sale for free, needed a little TLC and it has serviced me well. I can't complain it offered what I didn't have.
I've only made about a dozen knives or so with a similar 1/3hp Harbor Freight belt sander. I struggle with clean lines but just realized the work table in your video is different than mine (my blade will slip down the slot on mine; yours steps back, allowing the knife to ride all the way). I've made a lot of adjustments to my sander (glass platen, cutting the extending knob for adjusting the table, removing covers for a quicker belt change, etc.) and I've experimented with different jigs. I've yet to make a knife with super clean lines. I now wonder if the table would solve many of my issues. Thanks for the videos.
I have had one of these for years with good results. The only problem I had was the switch going out, but that was my fault as I had added a receptacle in the line for a vacuum to go on and off with the machine and it pulled more amps than the wire and switch could handle, I do this with all my machines and was expecting this problem so I did what I have done with other machines and upped the wire gauge and switch to cover the added amperage. A fine little machine for what it can be used for.
When I started making knives as a hobby I did not know what I was doing and did not want to spend a lot not knowing if I would want to continue I bought this grinder, a harbor freight cast anvil and made a barely passable home made forge. Using this under powered grinder taught me patients for when I started getting better and spent the money for better belt grinders, forge and anvil. 4 years later and I still have this sander, does not get much use anymore, but sometimes still use it on roughing handle scales
I don't make knives. I use this grinder in my guitar shop. Mostly grinding cow bone, wood and some soft metals. I've had it for about 10 years now. It's small size is a plus for my work. While not a Cadillac by any means, it's not total junk either. Glad to see an honest and fair review.
One of my son gave me this belt sander and it work great I like it very much. I think my son is a great little machine. I restore old Daisy, baby, guns and music constantly. Thank you, Harbor freight.
Thanks for a good detailed review! For sanding smooth the edges of circuit boards that I manufacture from time to time, I use a homemade small belt grinder on semi-permanent loan from a friend. It uses 1" x 42" belts driven by a wooden [!] 6" OD pulley on the shaft of a commonplace 1750 RPM 1/4 HP motor. Works at least as well as the Central Machinery machine in your review, but it is heavy and somewhat clumsy to adjust. It is good to know that there is a quick, easy & cheap alternative if my friend needs his machine back...
I have been using that HF sander for years. Would better sander be better yes. I fix up old rusty tools. Mine held the belts too tight, so I removed the adjuster and filed it a little. I don't use the table or side cover, and most of the time I don't use the platen. I do plan on making a full-length one out of a 2x6 that comes on and off fast. I have been using a stick on the back of the belt. Blue ribbon con-dishing belts are your friend. It has been said that they don't work on an HF belt sander. They are stiffer than regular bets you can soften them by working them by bending back and forth in your hands and modding the adjuster. They are worth the trouble. If your sander starts to get noisy the allen screw has come loose. I am happy with mine when it wears out I will upgrade. Also, a fiber wheel for a bench grinder is worth thinking about.
My first 5 knives were made on a Black and Decker PowerFile, which I screwed to a piece of 1 x2 that could be held in my bench vice. Did a wonderful job, as well as being still used for it’s intended purpose. A true multi-tool.
Walter you are right on the money. I have had one of these for years. It does great service for light duty stuff, as you said. I made a drop point knife from miter a saw blade and it did a great job. Thanks for another great video.
Walter, excellent video. I don't fabricate the blades, but I buy the blanks and assemble the scales and finish the knife, then make the sheaths. This would be a very good sander for finishing, I think. Thanks.
I have one I bought way back when I was in highschool for getting into knives. It was a good better-than-nothing start. It let me make quite a few small, beginner projects.
I’ve had mine for about 10 years and it’s still going. The capacitor just blew on it but I was able to bypass it and it still works!! As a serious hobbyist from making knives and blacksmithing it’s an extremely useful tool.
i have the Grizzly H6070 1x30 Sander I have been using this machine for 8 years, the motor does not stall when reprofiling a new edge or making a new tip, Been very happy with it so far, then I will finish my sharpening on assorted Japanese whetstones., as with any tool you must know its limitations. great video, Thanks, Greetings from The Cayman Islands.
When I began adding tools to my workshop, I purchased this belt sander. Not heavy duty, but very useful for making metal edges finger friendly. Over the years, this has been great for small wood /metal projects. I have a better belt sander for serious projects. But this little guy is a nice go to sander. By the way, I paid $39.00 for this baby!
i have one of those, although it is branded differently. it is pretty good for what it is, a lightweight small sander. Some types of sanding it can not do, as you can not wedge your work piece into the belt from all angles since it is so compact. but it works fine, and have had it for over ten years. Helps if you hook up a vacuum cleaner to it. it is underpowered, so you will not be removing a lot of material without it periodically jamming on you. but for light sanding it is fine
Exactly how I started many years ago. Then on to a 1 x 42 and finally to a 2 x 72. I would tell a beginner to go for it, but be ready to spend some serious money down the line. Thanks for good video.
Ive never even considered making anything with metal, but I work with a lot of leather. Im thinking the slower weak motor is likely a boon with how soft leather is compared to anything you listed. Great video!
Glad to see your wearing the respirator. As a metal worker, I noticed after grinding metal outside in the sunlight, the sun's rays showed just how many very small metal flakes were floating around me. You don't want this in your lungs. I also use a respirator and also have a huge workspace exhaust fan. Safety first.
Thanks Walter,i was looking for something other than my worksharp and with a little more power. It’ll definitely fit my needs reshaping tsuka and saya and maybe even sharpening katana.
I like the honest review. I've bought a couple of tools from harbor freight just to try out and so far most have been pretty good. They are basic simple tools great for beginners on a budget.
Nice video Walter ,I like your channel and watch everything you post. But on this on the litter 1x30 belt sander it works fairly good for the buck and at 65 years old and a retired toolmaker/ welder , I really don’t think investing a large sum of cash to build 20 or so knives as a hobby. It’s not a money maker if your trying to make a living at making knives. The knives I’m making are for family and friends to have after I’m gone, everyone that get one will know that it was made just for them , maybe they can pass it to their family when they are not able to use it anymore. I use mine to rough the bevels , then I finish them up with a filing jig and do the profiles and rough shape the scales . You have a fantastic tool shop but I don’t have the space or time left to try to compete with the pros . Keep up the great videos and content. I look forward to seeing another video soon . I made one knife back in 1994 using a wire EDM machine , did the entire blade on that machine and I still have it pretty cool . Later
I have a 1x42 with an 8 inch disk grinder I setup for wet grinding for knife sharpening with silicon oxide belts. But it was my only grinder when I started.
Watching your videos and some others I appreciate the time and professionalism of your videos. To dip my toe In The Biz I used the earlier model of the Harbor Freight grinder. I made probably 20 knives with that grinder which I also got a taste in buying quality belts for future reference. As soon as I was over being a novice, I was able to fabricate a 2x72 Grinder from a dc motor and control board off a free treadmill. There's many videos on how to make it out there on UA-cam, and it gave me forward and reverse and variable speed which is invaluable for grinding a quality knife. After I went through two motors from getting metal dust into the windings I still couldn't afford a $3,000 grinder so I bought the plans for my 2nd gen Revolution 2x72 grinder from Brian house out of Florida for 10 bucks. With the steel, the motor, and the controller I'm into it for about 800 bucks. But I will say that it is an industrial machine that will last me a lifetime, plenty of power, forward and reverse, variable speed, vertical and horizontal grinding. It's an excellent machine and would sell somewhere in the range of $3,000 assembled out the door. It took me a while to save up the scratch and lots of research before I decided to build the revolution, and I'm not dissatisfied I love that machine I use it everyday on anything I need to grind. It's a cheaper way to get an excellent 2x72 grinder and I would advise anyone with a little welding knowledge to do what I did. Get a hold of Brian house and get the plans or buy the bundle and you're in for a professional machine for a lot less than you would buying a prefabricated tool. Thank you Walter Sorrels, you are my number one man for knife making videos over the last five or six years I couldn't have done it without you thank you thank you thank you Walter. Keep up the good work my brother from the knife making community.
Mine worked well, but shelved it for now until I can rewire it. Not sure if its a bad ground or what but get an occasional shock when using it. But it worked good enough to make a few knives so far and testing knife shapes on scrap wood lattice strips.
Here is a tip for anyone who decides to start out knife making with this HF 1x30. To do the bevels I use a piece of 2x2x9 aluminum angle and small C clamps. The small work table on the HF 1x30 tilts but hits the motor housing trying to tilt it back which is how I do bevels. I had to cut off a small part of the underside of the table to allow tilting back more. I did that on my table saw but you could use a hacksaw. I also put in a machine screw at the back that I can turn to make fine adjustments to the angle using a digital angle finder. This allows the table to tilt up to a max of about 14 degrees which is more than enough for bevels. I typically set the angle about 7 degrees then using my aluminum angle with the blade clamped to grind my bevels. Once the bevels are ground with the 40 grit belt, I go over them with a 240 grit belt to save some hand sanding.
Love to see what other affordable grinders you highlight. I would submit that most of us who have gotten into knife making and. The last 10 years started on a 1x30.
I have one of these 1X30 belt sanders from Harbour Freight,,, these units are sold under a variety of brand names, but they're all the same machine. I paid $30 for mine a few years ago, it has been great, works well. The one weak point for this and any 1X30 Belt Sanders is the filament tape that connects the ends of the belt. The tape has a shelf life, the material that the connecting tape erodes over time, so you need to buy fresh belts every couple of years. And if these belts are stored in a hot/ humid environment or where gas or chemical fumes are present, the erosion process of the cheap filament tape will be exhilarated. Otherwise this super sander (not really a grinder) works super well. IF YOU WANT TO GRIND SOMETHING, USE A STONE GRINDER AND STOP EXPECTING A BELT SANDER TO GRIND AWAY ENOUGH MATERIAL TO ACCOMPLISH THE TASK..... ! (dumb, just dumb)
I use a Delta branded one from 20 years ago or so. Made in china I guess. looks similar but has the 5" disc which is what it use to grind bone bridge saddles for classical guitars. it has been great for that light use. a grinder this size would be the first bench top tool I would recommend for a beginning guitar maker or repair person. good review.
I started going to Harbor Freight to get tools for my side-by-side. These are tools that will work fine out on the trail, but would not shed too many tears over if they were lost or stolen. For the price, and given they are what they are, I have been impressed, they work fine. To support my scale RC habit, I bought a 36x4" & 6" grinder combo, and I like the machine, it does what it needs to, without breaking the bank. Given, this machine would not last a day at my work, but it is not intended to.
I have a different brand 1x30 and have made over a dozen knives with it. Its not great but its better than filing. The knives get better every time so it was a good investment to me.
I have a similar machine, mine is branded as a Delta and also has a 5” disc sander. I also have big sander/grinders. The big machines are great for bigger jobs but if I have a small part that I just want to remove a little material from I find my little 1X30 sander great for those jobs.
About 7 years ago my Nephew told me about this little grinder, as we both like sharp knives, so I waited till there was a discount coupon at HF and bought one for $39. I was so happy that the next time there was a sale I bought another one, just in case. ( of course I bought a bunch of belts) Well it's still in the box on my garage shelf. I sharpen knives for all my visiting relatives and neighbors. Good little cheap tool that definitely has it's place.
I’ve had mine for about 10 years, still working and has been very useful. Totally worth the cost. I’m just a hobbyist though l don’t have huge demands on it.
I've had mine for 2 years 1x30 short of modifying a couple of things table .angle setting. Back stop plate. . It works perfectly for beginners I've used it several times it does stop though if you put too much pressure on it if you don't set the tension right also used it turned on its back side if you don't mind adjusting some things modifying. As far as professional knife making where mass production I would go more industrial what you've learned to use it to grinding process and get used to it if your skills improved. But there's also free hand to which I did a lot of
I've got a similar one with a disc sander on the end! Never used the disc sander, waste of space. On the other hand the belt sander is in more of less constant use. Small, compact, easy to carry. Belt change and cleaning, simple to easy. Cleaning a must, as the material inside tends to build up, I wouldn't say there's any great accuracy, I use a small level on the plate and F clamps on the base. For small, fiddly, take your time work, I find it does the trick. Used it on larger pieces for surface cleaning, I feel some basic skills are warranted as you are working close to the belt. However, because of the speed, serious injuries are very unlikely, in my opinion. If you push to hard against the belt back plate, you can easily stop the belt rotating. Bought a bigger one with the vertical and horizontal option. Should have given my money to a charity. It sits there, mocking me, for being so dumb!
I went with a Rikon 1x30 with a 5" disc... $140 from my local Woodcraft store. I have used it to make a couple knives with very good success but mostly use it with a homemade jig for regrinding plane irons and chisels as needed. The table on the Rikon has very nice fine adjusting screws for pitch adjustment which works brilliantly for chisel grinds. So yeah I agree with you that a 1x30 isn't the same as a 2x72 but it'll get the job done.
I am not a knife maker. However I bought this machine to use with a 1x30 leather strop and polishing compound to sharpen knifes. This works great for my purpose of touching up knives easily and quickly.
I have the older (green) version. It's seen lots of use in my small shop, where I do a lot of one-off stuff. Have not used it for knife making, but it has saved my bacon a few times over the years. I seem to recall paying around $40 for mine back then. Agree on the included belts: They don't last very long. Get some better quality ones. It's one of those tools that would get replaced if it ever dies.
Just an FYI to anybody looking to try one of these cheap but awesome machines... You can add a better platen. I made one that was a bit taller and rounded at the top, and removed the plastic top cover entirely. I made the platen more easily removable so I can slack belt and this is a great utility grinder. I've got bigger grinders now but I still use this for all sorts of things.
I'm not a knife maker, but I have have one of these which I've used to reshape and re-profile many an axe head, machete, lawn mower, and bush hog blade. It's removed a bunch of metal over five years or so that I've abused it, and it's never faltered. It's refreshing to see a professional of Walter's caliber reviewing equipment like this.
Have had 3 years it's on its last leg
I have had the Delta version of this for over 30 years and, with the occasional bearing replacement, it is still going strong. It even has a flex shaft attachment that I rarely use. I use this for tools, part deburring, wood and metal profiling. Buy good belts, and get a crepe rubber belt cleaning block to keep them going. I have a Central machinery version at a second location and it feels a little lighter than my original Delta. Both work well for my uses. Thanks for your objective review. I think if you are getting started, this is a great tool.
As a beginner I had one. the best thing about it was since it forced you to go slow it was hard to make a mistake that couldn't be fixed.
Me too
Add me to that list. I don't like HB sandpaper either so I buy better elsewhere online.
This is absolutely not a common sentiment. I have no idea how hard you were grinding but these are much too fast for their size. They're suggested against to beginners because they're so wild with notoriously bad tracking. Also if you're grinding that hard, you're doing it wrong
@@TingTingalingy pretty common sentiment. I agree with them fully. You seem to be the odd one out hefe.
@@NeillWylie he's made a dozen knives, how many have you made? I have had 5+ of these over the years, you're just being an ass.
This video is a prime example of what a master craftsman is capable of doing. Shows how important expertise is. His knowledge trumps all limitations the tool might have. It was a pleasure watching this video sir. Thank you
Imagine what he could do in prison with a part of a mattress frame and couple years to work on it 😀
LOL
@@polylight
I have the $85 version with the 5" disc. For my VERY limited use, it is perfect and didn't break the very limited hobby budget. Thanks for an honest review that doesn't just trash-talk the tool because it costs so little.
I have a similar tool. I keep it clean and I respect all of my tools. A budget tool is perfect for a man on a budget. A poor craftsman blames his tools.
I didn't realize there was *one without* the 5" round disc.. makes the tool so much more useful. 👍😎✊
I like mine but it shocks me a lot. I read it has some internal issue that causes it. It's not static electricity. I'm in the electric and electronic field for 25 years so i'm not worried about it. cheers
@@drgopta2180 Yeah that's a super common issue with all belt sanders. With most people, it is static electricity and there are a bunch of ways to deal with it. The most common is just to ground the frame and then if you're still having issues, change your belt type or run tinsel over the belt.
It’s because American’s can make this for anywhere near that price. We can’t use near forced labor. I quit buying tools, cars, lots of things. Try to buy things not made in a country that has vowed to destroy my country one way or another. Just saying “pay now or pay later”
WHAT A GREAT REVIEW.
I started somewhere, like everyone does. You pointed out a damn good way to jump in, even if garage sales couldn't get you where you wanted to be, and you didn't have the cash to go all in up front [and had to upgrade a bit here and there, as you could afford it].
SIDE NOTE: I'm a woodworker, miner steel player wither, plastic worker, copper plater and so on. I lucked out and scored a delta 1x42 for ten bucks at a garage sale about twenty years ago. Since then, I've added a four wheel grinder I picked up off craigslist [for a couple hundred] (it was a 3,600 RPM thing off a 240 volt motor, but I swapped the original motor for a sewing machine motor and controller (3/4 horse), installed a couple CBN, diamond and stone wheels on it and was off and running. I added a Air Handler buffer to the mix for one hundred (little 1/4 horse with a solid squirrel cage in the cabinet to collect debris All nothing, (air handler aside) compared to your grinders (which my son invested in too). The point of all this is, I'm impressed with this jumping off point.
Mine is the older HF brand/model. I’ve made some really nice knives with it. As a beginning/hobbyist knife maker, I think it’s amazing! Plus, at this price point, it’s not going to totally kill your budget if you have to replace it. I’ve had mine for 3 years and still going strong! I can also get the ceramic belts for it, too. Just take your time using it, be patient and enjoy the process.
I bought one just for sharpening, when the edge needs some re-profiling. I have many decades of practice on stones, but the time saved here is enormous. Just always remember that what can do a good job fast, can ruin a knife just as fast, be sure you can hold your angle every pass. I saw a vid a while back of a professional sharpening shop, and they had a whole wall full of these. It was more practical to have a machine for each grit than it was to change the belts.
I used one of these for about 15 years or so before the motor went out. It worked great for me. I liked that it was a little slower, it made me take my time and get things exactly they way I wanted them. It worked great for reprofiling and repairing blades that people would bring me to fix. I also liked that it was small and took up very little room. Many times I took it to work with me to use . It may be cheap but it did everything I needed it to do.
I originally bought this belt sander to use for tool restoration. It has also been a very useful tool for making knives and grinding bevels on my woodworking tools. I recently bought a leather 1x30 belt, so now I use it to strop my various blades. It might be light duty, but it's been a super useful tool.
A buddy I used to work with brought their next largest model home from a flea market in 2005 and it was well used then and still going strong in 023.
Thanks for the leather belt idea.. I strop my knives on a piece of leather glued to a flat stick and charged with polishing compound,
Great idea. I didn't know those existed.
I use mine for primary handle shaping. Because it does not dig into the material too fast, even with a 36-grit belt, it's easy to keep things smooth and even.
Use mine on handles and made a drill bit sharpening jig for it
36 grinds into steel rapidly. Handle material stands no chance against a rigid AF 36 grit belt, especially on a 1x30.
I'm not buying your story
@@willlothridge3197what is a drill bit sharpening jig for a 1x30 grinder?
@@TingTingalingyyou really don't know what a drill bit sharpening jig is? Hell buddy, you have the internet so you surely have google?!
@@TingTingalingy about a 4” long piece of 1x1 angle with homemade ball mounts on a base
I have owned and operated one of these small sanders for over 20 years now, for small deburring and small drill bits or lathe tools. I degreed my plate for ease of use, and find this exactly as per cost and need. Cheap and capable of good performance with Zirconia belts on small objects, when not in any hurry. For my main used of all intentions is my Burr-King 4" x 60". I also have the larger Harbor Freight Belt sander with the side wheel, and find it acceptable for larger, soft material objects, but easy to stop and very Endemic for power. For a serious user or knife maker' Buy Nice, or By Twice.
Starting out, i purchased the equivalent of this machine from Princess Auto in Canada. It served me very well. You can definitely make knives with it. I still use it now, even though i built a 2x72 Grinder. It still comes in handy! I would recommend it to anyone starting out.
I had purchased one of these machines for my automotive shop a few years back. I certainly was not expecting much at all for all the reasons you mentioned, but I was also not looking for a machine to handle heavy use. Like you, I also tossed the cheap belt and bought good ones. I have to admit, I was extremely surprised at how well it works. For the money, it is well worth buying one.
Awesome stuff as always man. Love your work!
I've had one of these belt sanders for about a decade, and I agree with the assessments made in this video. One thing I should note is that last year the on/off switch on mine failed, but it was easily replaced with a generic rocker switch from Amazon (that fit perfectly) for about $5. These days, mine is relegated almost exclusively to smaller wood working projects.
This is a very fair review. Unlike too many other people, you treated it as what it is, a really inexpensive machine, without constantly complaining that it wasn’t as good as something five to 10 times as much. These machines have their place. If you make knives or anything else for yourself as a hobby where you’re not making a lot of parts, this is fine. If you really like the hobby and want to move more seriously, then after starting with this, move up.
Really good honest video, Thankyou! I use files and a wheel grinder with various wheels. Its what I can afford. I also use a hand drill with different wheel attachments like sanding discs and polishing disc's. Takes me alot longer but ive made some nice stuff. I plan on buying one of these now thanks to your review and the comments. I have found if I take my time and use some ingenuity anything I put my mind too is very doable. Thanks for your Chanel you always give me good ideas.
Having watched too many knife-related videos, this is one of the most sensible, considered and candid. Kudos,
I love that you still do testing on this type of thing for the benefit of those getting into the hobby. I would have dismissed it out of hand - I could buy two files with that money!
I think we all learn to make do with the tools that we have on hand. Buying a cheap tool from harbor freight is one good option. But there is one thing I'd like to know. When making a knife from an old file, do you anneal the file before you start working it?
That's what I started with, then moved up to a 2x72 when my skills improved and my pocketbook got larger. I still use mine, but only with a leather belt for final stropping, which it does perfectly.
I bought one several years ago for mid thirties and I have no idea what it will do for knifemakers but I would not be without one for a small drill bit sharpener. I use it for very small to 1/2" bits and it gives me great control. Not to thrilled with the channels in the table but I have to say this has been a performer. I always get a better grade of belt but with that it is something I would not be without. I use it every day and it has been without any problems.
The trick to a grinder like this is to hog off most of the material with an angle grinder rough pass. You can get one super cheap at HF too… this will give you several benefits.
You’ll get practice with both tools, you’ll save time and money on consumables by saving your belts and you’ll have more fun focusing on making progress instead of trying to grind away an inch of steel for an hour!
I’ve had this little grinder and it worked great for me for a long time, because I took care of it, I spent the money I saved on better quality belts and knife steel and I made a few jigs for it that made it safer and faster to use.
So yeah… just remember… a poor craftsman blames his tools! You just have to respect your cheap tools instead of thrashing them because they’re cheap. I love Adam Savages method where he says to buy the cheapest tops you can, use them until they break and upgrade with the most expensive you can afford and the best quality that you need! Because you might not even like knife making, so don’t buy a 3k grinder to start. Start small, learn what you like, what features you want or dislike so when you upgrade you know exactly what you want and you can get the best tool for you!
I have 2 mounted back to back on a 12 x 24 " board. C clamp holds it down, 2 different grits, loosen the clamp and spin the rig around and go again. Belt sets are $10 for 30 (!) on Temu. Warning: stopping the motor with excessive loads will burn out the pully/bearings, THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE. I got one of these sanders for $20 because the pully was seized. Matched a bearing and "poured" a new plastic puller around it, bit of sanding and it's now workable. Thanks for the vid.
So.. I'm a hobbyist leatherworker.. Might look into seeing if they ship to Canada cause I can use this to sand my edges flush instead of measuring everything 4 times and then making micro cuts with a knife to clean up my edges... This looks very promising for that, and maybe I'll try a knife of my own too, and then make a sheath for it!
If a 1x30 get you to get into a hobby that you love and make you do something, it worth it. I begin with one and now that I made a 2x72, I keep it to sharpen tig tungsten rod.
I have the Delta clone to this. Bought it with a bunch of tools. Figured I'd throw it in with something else while selling a bigger tool. I like doing that and people seem to like it too. But I still have it! It has every fault Mr. Sorrells mentioned. But I still have it! I do wood and it's saved me tons of hand sanding intricate pieces. I'm just learning how to sharpen stuff with it and again, it's a huge time saver. I just hope my fancy tools don't hurt it when the lights are out! Lol
Mine's probably 10 years old at this point. Still runs great. I don't actually make knives, but lots of sharpening and reshaping/restoring. As well as other regular DIY around the house stuff. They tend to not be put together that well, so I had to grind out a little clearance for the idler arm to move properly and I trued the pulleys to make it run smooth as can be. First things that go are the side and top covers. Then grind the top to allow full access to the top pulley.
I bought one of these a few years ago for sharpening lawn mower blades. It's ok. Not great, but serviceable. Does the job as long as good belts are used. Once the belt gets dull, it takes forever to get an edge. If you push too hard on it it'll stall with very little effort. For the price, it works ok. I use a very aggressive belt too. 36 grit.
I've been using this exact 1x30 belt sander to sharpen mower blades for 15 years, works great. Got a more expensive hobby, buy a better tool, but it's not junk.
I've had this one for a number of years and it works just fine for what I use it for. Sharpening drill bits.
1. I've used the same HF belt sander for better than 7 years. Mine has the 5 1/2 in. disk on the side. I paid under $40.00 for it on sale.
1.5. As an aside, I recommend the 4.5 in. disc grinder for cutting stock out. It's light duty as well (at under $20.00 on sale) but great for the hobbiest.
2. The HF abrasives kind'a suck. The belts are usable but not fo long. I'd recomend getting them elsewhere.
3. I tend to do my "grinding" by hand mostly as I enjoy the work. My HF belt sander is used mainly to "cut" the first 1/4 in. of the bevel at the edge to the centerline. As I said, I enjoy the work.
4. Thankyou Mr. Sorrells for your multiple series on knife making. They've been educational as well as inspirational.
I started knife making with a 1x30, like many other have. I made several knives that all turned out good. The disadvantages I saw were with the narrow platen and the amount of time it took to grind compared to a 2x72. If your on the fence about not being able to make a 1x30 work for you don't. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Nice! I picked one of these up when it was on clearance for wood, but I had no idea it was even useable for steel. Honestly I love that I don’t need to care for it. Worst case, it breaks and I now have a light duty induction motor
I got one of these and I use it in my shop for a general grinder change out. The belts doesn't take long to change out a belt. It's small. It doesn't take up a lot of space. We can put it underneath a table someplace. Pull it out just when we need it and put it away. Takes up a lot less space than an actual bench grinder. And the abrasives the belt can be changed out for various different grits and I have a flat grind rather than a round grind when I'm having to shape. Whatever it is that I'm working with and I don't do knife working but somebody else uses it to sharpen knives. They're knives and they have a an attachment that you can pick up on Amazon that gives you an angle. You can either have it going upwards or downwards and make both of them and it works pretty good. He's real happy with it. I use it to do all kinds of stuff all the way up to polishing really fine. Grit all the way down to grinding stuff away and it works and it works great. It may not last 30 years but you know what for the amount of money. If it gives 2 years it works. I'm even considering picking up a second one, but that's how useful and handy. I have found it in my shop. Like I said when it's not a use just take it off the bench and put it on a shelf someplace and it's out of the way. You don't have to have something dedicated. You could move it wherever it is that you're wanting to work
I have the Vonhaus 1x30, very similar to this but has a built in disc sander too. I'll upgrade to a 2x72 as soon as I can afford it but honestly, this little belt grinder has been amazing! I've made everything from little sgian dubhs through Bowie knives up to 1 handed swords using it and it's handled them all just fine, slowly, but fine. For a little under £100 I have no complaints.
I have one of the green ones. It cost a little under $40. Once a year I gather all my knives and my daughters' knives and with a couple of higher grit belts, a 1x30 leather belt, and some polishing compound I bring everything to factory sharp or better. It works great!
Yep, got one of these. The belt doesn't run quite straight, but I've still been able to get some good practice on bevels and it's remarkably quick to grind away 1084
I've had a green Harbor Freight version for over a decade and it is still rolling along. I'm not a knife maker, but I built boats and use this tool for all kinds of detail work on wood, fiberglass and metal. I've altered mine to include vibration reducing base and a quick way to remove the cover forr belt changes. I use the dust port and improved the guide table by drilling multiple holes in the surface t allow air flow. This thing works.
Thanks for a very reasonable review of this tool. I will probably never get into knife making from scratch, but I have other hobbies where this could be useful such as building amateur rockets or making metal brackets for various things.
I have four 1x30 belt grinders, only one is Central Machinery and I use it with a stropping belt. The other three grinders are more notable name brands. With a few minor modifications my 1x30s work great with the correct/proper belt selection. Thank you for this video.
I don't really make knives yet, but do forge tools like chisels and scrapers, as well as sharpening axes, knives, etc that I already have. I picked up a fairly cheap king canada 1x42 disc/belt sander, that has quickly become one of my most used power tools. I replaced the cheap platen with a small piece of 1/4" angle iron, and took the side cover off, but otherwise run it as-is. Well worth every penny, even if I do end up buying, or more likely building, a 2x42 or 2x72 down the road. Another thing worth mentioning about these little grinders, esp this one, is just that. They are SMALL, meaning you can have one in almost any workspace, and tuck it away on a shelf when not needed. Perfect for hobby or occasional use, where space might be more of an issue than cost.
I learned how to grind on one of these and its still going strong.
If you dont have a dedicated shop, these are a cheap and cheerful way to speed up your knife making, and you can run them on kitchen counter with a vacuum cleaner hose attached to the side to keep the mess minimal. I personally try and keep them religiously clean because metal filings have a bit of a habit of building up inside the cowling. If you are doing mixed wood and metal work then you risk a flammable build up developing inside.
This aside, if you treat it well, it will treat you well.
I bought one of these from Harbor Freight almost two years ago and it's still going strong. I only own two machines I use as grinders to profile and flatten my blades; the 1x30 and a 4x36 adjustable belt sanding station from Bauer. Now that you can get much more aggressive abrasive belts for these machines, I think they're great if you're starting out or just strapped for cash. I still like to file my bevels in by using draw filing at my bench, but these two machines significantly drop the time it takes me to get a blade ready for heat treatment and they also help me process my handle materials quickly as I work with a lot of bone, antler, and horn that I repurpose from the stuff sold as dog treats. I think they're great compared to the alternative of doing everything purely by hand.
did my first 20 blades on a 1x42 delta grinder, finally afforded a Wilmont 2X72. I use that grinder for a lot of other fabrication work now, one of my favorite shop tools.
I have one that I've used fairly extensively. I removed the table and the platen. I use it exclusively as a slack belt for cleaning up convex grinds and putting the final bevel on hollow grinds.
For someone who is only going to make a knife or two on a 0 budget it does the job. I was given mine from a garage sale for free, needed a little TLC and it has serviced me well. I can't complain it offered what I didn't have.
I've only made about a dozen knives or so with a similar 1/3hp Harbor Freight belt sander. I struggle with clean lines but just realized the work table in your video is different than mine (my blade will slip down the slot on mine; yours steps back, allowing the knife to ride all the way). I've made a lot of adjustments to my sander (glass platen, cutting the extending knob for adjusting the table, removing covers for a quicker belt change, etc.) and I've experimented with different jigs. I've yet to make a knife with super clean lines. I now wonder if the table would solve many of my issues. Thanks for the videos.
I have had one of these for years with good results. The only problem I had was the switch going out, but that was my fault as I had added a receptacle in the line for a vacuum to go on and off with the machine and it pulled more amps than the wire and switch could handle, I do this with all my machines and was expecting this problem so I did what I have done with other machines and upped the wire gauge and switch to cover the added amperage. A fine little machine for what it can be used for.
I bought a delta version of this sander and I have used the heck out of it for over 10 years. Great for small parts and sharpening.
I have one off these but I just extended the support strap behind the belt and it works great.
When I started making knives as a hobby I did not know what I was doing and did not want to spend a lot not knowing if I would want to continue I bought this grinder, a harbor freight cast anvil and made a barely passable home made forge. Using this under powered grinder taught me patients for when I started getting better and spent the money for better belt grinders, forge and anvil. 4 years later and I still have this sander, does not get much use anymore, but sometimes still use it on roughing handle scales
I don't make knives. I use this grinder in my guitar shop. Mostly grinding cow bone, wood and some soft metals. I've had it for about 10 years now. It's small size is a plus for my work. While not a Cadillac by any means, it's not total junk either. Glad to see an honest and fair review.
One of my son gave me this belt sander and it work great I like it very much.
I think my son is a great little machine.
I restore old Daisy, baby, guns and music constantly. Thank you, Harbor freight.
@Walter Sorrells - Moral of the story: Unskilled craftsmen blame their tools.... Skilled craftsmen fashion their own. 😉
I have been through 2 of them and even brand new out the box it still shocks the crap out of me !!!
Thanks for a good detailed review! For sanding smooth the edges of circuit boards that I manufacture from time to time, I use a homemade small belt grinder on semi-permanent loan from a friend. It uses 1" x 42" belts driven by a wooden [!] 6" OD pulley on the shaft of a commonplace 1750 RPM 1/4 HP motor. Works at least as well as the Central Machinery machine in your review, but it is heavy and somewhat clumsy to adjust. It is good to know that there is a quick, easy & cheap alternative if my friend needs his machine back...
I have been using that HF sander for years. Would better sander be better yes. I fix up old rusty tools. Mine held the belts too tight, so I removed the adjuster and filed it a little. I don't use the table or side cover, and most of the time I don't use the platen. I do plan on making a full-length one out of a 2x6 that comes on and off fast. I have been using a stick on the back of the belt. Blue ribbon con-dishing belts are your friend. It has been said that they don't work on an HF belt sander. They are stiffer than regular bets you can soften them by working them by bending back and forth in your hands and modding the adjuster. They are worth the trouble. If your sander starts to get noisy the allen screw has come loose. I am happy with mine when it wears out I will upgrade. Also, a fiber wheel for a bench grinder is worth thinking about.
My first 5 knives were made on a Black and Decker PowerFile, which I screwed to a piece of 1 x2 that could be held in my bench vice. Did a wonderful job, as well as being still used for it’s intended purpose. A true multi-tool.
There great for tuning two strokes ports too lol
I had this very tool as a beginner; I had no real issues with it. I have since upgraded but this tool is good for just starting
Walter you are right on the money. I have had one of these for years. It does great service for light duty stuff, as you said. I made a drop point knife from miter a saw blade and it did a great job. Thanks for another great video.
I'm brand new and I have this. This video made me realize I can do it with time. I also now know what belts to use. Thank you!
Walter, excellent video. I don't fabricate the blades, but I buy the blanks and assemble the scales and finish the knife, then make the sheaths. This would be a very good sander for finishing, I think. Thanks.
I have one I bought way back when I was in highschool for getting into knives. It was a good better-than-nothing start. It let me make quite a few small, beginner projects.
I’ve had mine for about 10 years and it’s still going. The capacitor just blew on it but I was able to bypass it and it still works!! As a serious hobbyist from making knives and blacksmithing it’s an extremely useful tool.
i have the Grizzly H6070 1x30 Sander I have been using this machine for 8 years, the motor does not stall when reprofiling a new edge or making a new tip, Been very happy with it so far, then I will finish my sharpening on assorted Japanese whetstones., as with any tool you must know its limitations. great video, Thanks, Greetings from The Cayman Islands.
When I began adding tools to my workshop, I purchased this belt sander. Not heavy duty, but very useful for making metal edges finger friendly. Over the years, this has been great for small wood /metal projects. I have a better belt sander for serious projects. But this little guy is a nice go to sander. By the way, I paid $39.00 for this baby!
i have one of those, although it is branded differently. it is pretty good for what it is, a lightweight small sander. Some types of sanding it can not do, as you can not wedge your work piece into the belt from all angles since it is so compact. but it works fine, and have had it for over ten years. Helps if you hook up a vacuum cleaner to it.
it is underpowered, so you will not be removing a lot of material without it periodically jamming on you. but for light sanding it is fine
Exactly how I started many years ago. Then on to a 1 x 42 and finally to a 2 x 72. I would tell a beginner to go for it, but be ready to spend some serious money down the line. Thanks for good video.
Ive never even considered making anything with metal, but I work with a lot of leather. Im thinking the slower weak motor is likely a boon with how soft leather is compared to anything you listed. Great video!
Glad to see your wearing the respirator. As a metal worker, I noticed after grinding metal outside in the sunlight, the sun's rays showed just how many very small metal flakes were floating around me. You don't want this in your lungs. I also use a respirator and also have a huge workspace exhaust fan. Safety first.
Yeah you don't want the metal shavings in your eyes either.
Thanks Walter,i was looking for something other than my worksharp and with a little more power. It’ll definitely fit my needs reshaping tsuka and saya and maybe even sharpening katana.
I like the honest review. I've bought a couple of tools from harbor freight just to try out and so far most have been pretty good. They are basic simple tools great for beginners on a budget.
I too use mine for handle shaping and even rough sharpening with the super strop kit and a angle guide.
I have a similar product that also has a sanding wheel that I purchased from Harbor Freight. I am happy with it. It does the job.
Nice video Walter ,I like your channel and watch everything you post. But on this on the litter 1x30 belt sander it works fairly good for the buck and at 65 years old and a retired toolmaker/ welder , I really don’t think investing a large sum of cash to build 20 or so knives as a hobby. It’s not a money maker if your trying to make a living at making knives. The knives I’m making are for family and friends to have after I’m gone, everyone that get one will know that it was made just for them , maybe they can pass it to their family when they are not able to use it anymore. I use mine to rough the bevels , then I finish them up with a filing jig and do the profiles and rough shape the scales . You have a fantastic tool shop but I don’t have the space or time left to try to compete with the pros . Keep up the great videos and content. I look forward to seeing another video soon . I made one knife back in 1994 using a wire EDM machine , did the entire blade on that machine and I still have it pretty cool . Later
I have a 1x42 with an 8 inch disk grinder I setup for wet grinding for knife sharpening with silicon oxide belts. But it was my only grinder when I started.
Forgetting the fact that this belt sander was built , designed and marketed towards WOOD working is an amazing machine
Watching your videos and some others I appreciate the time and professionalism of your videos. To dip my toe In The Biz I used the earlier model of the Harbor Freight grinder. I made probably 20 knives with that grinder which I also got a taste in buying quality belts for future reference. As soon as I was over being a novice, I was able to fabricate a 2x72 Grinder from a dc motor and control board off a free treadmill. There's many videos on how to make it out there on UA-cam, and it gave me forward and reverse and variable speed which is invaluable for grinding a quality knife. After I went through two motors from getting metal dust into the windings I still couldn't afford a $3,000 grinder so I bought the plans for my 2nd gen Revolution 2x72 grinder from Brian house out of Florida for 10 bucks. With the steel, the motor, and the controller I'm into it for about 800 bucks. But I will say that it is an industrial machine that will last me a lifetime, plenty of power, forward and reverse, variable speed, vertical and horizontal grinding. It's an excellent machine and would sell somewhere in the range of $3,000 assembled out the door. It took me a while to save up the scratch and lots of research before I decided to build the revolution, and I'm not dissatisfied I love that machine I use it everyday on anything I need to grind. It's a cheaper way to get an excellent 2x72 grinder and I would advise anyone with a little welding knowledge to do what I did. Get a hold of Brian house and get the plans or buy the bundle and you're in for a professional machine for a lot less than you would buying a prefabricated tool. Thank you Walter Sorrels, you are my number one man for knife making videos over the last five or six years I couldn't have done it without you thank you thank you thank you Walter. Keep up the good work my brother from the knife making community.
Mine worked well, but shelved it for now until I can rewire it. Not sure if its a bad ground or what but get an occasional shock when using it. But it worked good enough to make a few knives so far and testing knife shapes on scrap wood lattice strips.
Here is a tip for anyone who decides to start out knife making with this HF 1x30. To do the bevels I use a piece of 2x2x9 aluminum angle and small C clamps. The small work table on the HF 1x30 tilts but hits the motor housing trying to tilt it back which is how I do bevels. I had to cut off a small part of the underside of the table to allow tilting back more. I did that on my table saw but you could use a hacksaw. I also put in a machine screw at the back that I can turn to make fine adjustments to the angle using a digital angle finder. This allows the table to tilt up to a max of about 14 degrees which is more than enough for bevels. I typically set the angle about 7 degrees then using my aluminum angle with the blade clamped to grind my bevels. Once the bevels are ground with the 40 grit belt, I go over them with a 240 grit belt to save some hand sanding.
Love to see what other affordable grinders you highlight. I would submit that most of us who have gotten into knife making and. The last 10 years started on a 1x30.
I have one of these 1X30 belt sanders from Harbour Freight,,, these units are sold under a variety of brand names, but they're all the same machine.
I paid $30 for mine a few years ago, it has been great, works well.
The one weak point for this and any 1X30 Belt Sanders is the filament tape that connects the ends of the belt.
The tape has a shelf life, the material that the connecting tape erodes over time, so you need to buy fresh belts every couple of years.
And if these belts are stored in a hot/ humid environment or where gas or chemical fumes are present, the erosion process of the cheap filament tape will be exhilarated.
Otherwise this super sander (not really a grinder) works super well.
IF YOU WANT TO GRIND SOMETHING, USE A STONE GRINDER AND STOP EXPECTING A BELT SANDER TO GRIND AWAY ENOUGH MATERIAL TO ACCOMPLISH THE TASK..... ! (dumb, just dumb)
Thank you for the demonstration and review!
I use a Delta branded one from 20 years ago or so. Made in china I guess. looks similar but has the 5" disc which is what it use to grind bone bridge saddles for classical guitars. it has been great for that light use. a grinder this size would be the first bench top tool I would recommend for a beginning guitar maker or repair person. good review.
Walter, can provide a link to the belts you ended up using? Also, I'm looking forward to what the next step from this would be. Thanks!
I started going to Harbor Freight to get tools for my side-by-side. These are tools that will work fine out on the trail, but would not shed too many tears over if they were lost or stolen. For the price, and given they are what they are, I have been impressed, they work fine. To support my scale RC habit, I bought a 36x4" & 6" grinder combo, and I like the machine, it does what it needs to, without breaking the bank. Given, this machine would not last a day at my work, but it is not intended to.
I have a different brand 1x30 and have made over a dozen knives with it. Its not great but its better than filing. The knives get better every time so it was a good investment to me.
I have a similar machine, mine is branded as a Delta and also has a 5” disc sander. I also have big sander/grinders. The big machines are great for bigger jobs but if I have a small part that I just want to remove a little material from I find my little 1X30 sander great for those jobs.
About 7 years ago my Nephew told me about this little grinder, as we both like sharp knives, so I waited till there was a discount coupon at HF and bought one for $39. I was so happy that the next time there was a sale I bought another one, just in case. ( of course I bought a bunch of belts) Well it's still in the box on my garage shelf. I sharpen knives for all my visiting relatives and neighbors. Good little cheap tool that definitely has it's place.
I’ve had mine for about 10 years, still working and has been very useful. Totally worth the cost. I’m just a hobbyist though l don’t have huge demands on it.
I knew someone who used one of these to shape their knife handles and it worked great for that.
I use a Harbor Freight 1x30 with Red Label abrasives and it works decently. Can’t wait to get a 2x72 though
I’ve made 150 or knives with mine! Still using it! It’s probably 8 years old! Enjoy your video s. 🤠🇺🇸👍
I've had mine for 2 years 1x30 short of modifying a couple of things table .angle setting. Back stop plate. . It works perfectly for beginners I've used it several times it does stop though if you put too much pressure on it if you don't set the tension right also used it turned on its back side if you don't mind adjusting some things modifying. As far as professional knife making where mass production I would go more industrial what you've learned to use it to grinding process and get used to it if your skills improved. But there's also free hand to which I did a lot of
I still use one to shape my handles & small parts. It's pretty useful.
I've got a similar one with a disc sander on the end! Never used the disc sander, waste of space. On the other hand the belt sander is in more of less constant use. Small, compact, easy to carry. Belt change and cleaning, simple to easy. Cleaning a must, as the material inside tends to build up, I wouldn't say there's any great accuracy, I use a small level on the plate and F clamps on the base. For small, fiddly, take your time work, I find it does the trick. Used it on larger pieces for surface cleaning, I feel some basic skills are warranted as you are working close to the belt. However, because of the speed, serious injuries are very unlikely, in my opinion. If you push to hard against the belt back plate, you can easily stop the belt rotating. Bought a bigger one with the vertical and horizontal option. Should have given my money to a charity. It sits there, mocking me, for being so dumb!
I went with a Rikon 1x30 with a 5" disc... $140 from my local Woodcraft store. I have used it to make a couple knives with very good success but mostly use it with a homemade jig for regrinding plane irons and chisels as needed. The table on the Rikon has very nice fine adjusting screws for pitch adjustment which works brilliantly for chisel grinds. So yeah I agree with you that a 1x30 isn't the same as a 2x72 but it'll get the job done.
I am not a knife maker. However I bought this machine to use with a 1x30 leather strop and polishing compound to sharpen knifes. This works great for my purpose of touching up knives easily and quickly.
I have the older (green) version. It's seen lots of use in my small shop, where I do a lot of one-off stuff. Have not used it for knife making, but it has saved my bacon a few times over the years. I seem to recall paying around $40 for mine back then. Agree on the included belts: They don't last very long. Get some better quality ones. It's one of those tools that would get replaced if it ever dies.
Just an FYI to anybody looking to try one of these cheap but awesome machines...
You can add a better platen. I made one that was a bit taller and rounded at the top, and removed the plastic top cover entirely. I made the platen more easily removable so I can slack belt and this is a great utility grinder. I've got bigger grinders now but I still use this for all sorts of things.