Lost me right there at the beginning also. Not sure what I missed. Maybe you're recursively selecting something more from each level of "mask", but I can't figure out how desaturating the blue channel (was the blue channel arbitrary, btw?) somehow started recursively dropping lighter colors.
Like all your tutorials , this is great, I like the way you explain not just what to do but whty to do it (which many vidoes ommit). I am using your technique to tone down some very bright light sources on my photo. The photo is of a street in a city in China on a wet night with lots of white billboard highlights and refelction in the wet pavement. The problem I am having is if I take the LLL image and either reduce the exposure or reduce the brightness in both cases it does not only tone down the luminance, but it brings in a color cast, the more I change it the more intense the color. Is there a way around it? As a temporary measure I have added a top layer, filled it black, reduced the opacity to 5% then added the LLL channel leyer mask to it. This works but feels like a bodge, is there a better way?
You've done it again Mike, great video and tips, not only good for photography, I'll be able to use them to adjust artwork made in Blender. Thanks again for sharing.
When you are adjusting the layers down to the first, why didn't you switched off the upper layers? Because the layers underneath the one above, are covered, thus the adjustments: not visibile
Definitely a good idea for those who know how to properly use exposure bracketing! This is an alternative, however, for those who do not. Thanks for the comment!
I've tried this over and over again, nothing happens when I try adjust the exposure, colour etc. Is there something obvious i'm missing? The layers don't seem to blend.
I have studied this technique extensively and understand the principles underpinning it. Putting into practice was a different matter. After creating the first L channel and when trying to make a contrast and brightness adjustment any change introduced a colour cast. For example: If I created L using the blue channel, any change resulted in either a blue cast or a yellow cast. It was not until I watched this video (after several others) I realised what was wrong: "Just make sure you click on the blue again (or whichever channel you used)" (3.25) WAS THE VITAL STEP! Revisiting the other sites, they all neglected to emphasise this step. Thanks for a great video and setting me on the right track. Such a well produced video, very clearly explained. I have subscribed.
This is a very good tutorial Davies, I always use this technique to further enhance and adjust my photos after I'm done with Darktable. But I think in Gimp 2.10.14 things don't work on the Light and Mid-tone Layer group, there is no effect no matter how much adjustment it's done to these layer groups.
Thank you for this. I am trying to learn Gimp and using this technique on one of my photos but a problem I am having is the Dark group on top isn't allowing the edits on the Light group below to show. What am I doing wrong? Subscribed.
Thank you for the tutorial. You introduced a plunging which supposed to do the same job but there is something wrong with mid tones. It just creates carbon copies of Ds channels. I tried it with intersecting the channels but it gives me different results. I think the manual version makes more sense. What's your idea?
Great video. Easy to follow. After making a few notes I was able to apply this technique fairly quickly to one of my photos. Choosing all the various settings is quite subjective-something I hope I can improve over time 🧐
Bit late to this video, but I've been watching a few of your other videos lately as I'm keen to learn how to use GIMP, signed up for the course via the link. Cheers.
Hi Davies following along nicely but when I come to adding the layer masks the channel drop down window is stuck in LL and won't let me choose any other option any idear why this is happening? I just restarted the whole prosess and I'm having the same issue. Would really apriciate your wisdom here thanks
OK I managed to apply the masks by Moving the channel I wanted to the top of the channels list then applying the mask in layers! So for example I'm a about to add the L layer mask but I must move the L, channel up to the top of the channels dialog box or I can't choose it in the drop down menu! I Can't see why you wasn't having do do this 😂
Well I followed you all the way to about 11 minutes in with a picture of my own loaded in Gimp in another monitor. But when you started to edit each of the masks, my version of Gimp 2.10 didn't do anything. There are symbols on my version that aren't on the one you're using.
step 1 - make a copy of the image for each mask you want to apply step 2 - add the mask to each layer making sure that the 'From channel' button is checked step 3 - once the mask is added, click on the Image icon (left hand icon) in the layer list, otherwise, you are editing the mask and not the image in the tutorial, at about 10:28, you will notice that Michael clicks on the left hand icon of the active layer―the active part of the image has a white box around it now you should see some results. let me just say, i can't tell you how many times that i have forgotten to do this―i kid you not
Yeah, same here. Pretty disappointed to say that I followed along for almost an hour (at my speed) to hit a brick wall. My color settings just wouldn't change anything.
@@PaulSauve I had the same issue as VoiceDrew and graniteslaye and found it came down to a couple of factors, but mostly ignorance. Do EXACTLY everything that he does in this video. I even fully created the two extra midtone layers, which may not matter in the overall outcome, but it's where I discovered my issues. Once I rewound and did everything all over again I could better see what I was doing, and Paul is right, make sure you select the main left icon (pic and not the mask) before working on them. I also have the latest version of Gimp 2.10. Trust the process. :P I will say this is a bit of a lengthy hard process for a beginner that isn't familiar enough with the software or layers/masks, it may be helpful to watch those tutorials that Mr. Davies has provided on his website before tackling this. I also tried doing this with my own tragic photo, which had a lot of midtone and foreground vs. background issues, rather than the tutorial photo or one like it. I hope this helps.
@@PaulSauve thanks for that piece of information. I tried to copy everything twice but nothing happened. Now it does! "click on the Image icon (left hand icon)"
This is my over-simplified way of putting it, but the more complex explanation is that 32-bit images contain more tonal values (I believe it is above 4 billion) than, say, 8 bit-images (which contain 256 tonal values). I just refer to this as "more data" in the tutorial. I'll see if I can find a better way to represent this in a simple manner that makes sense universally.
but your original image was 8 bit. All that data that your talking about are only in raw file formats. I just don't get it. By the way, thanks for your videos.
@@miguelangelsanchez8225 When you are applying multiple operations, it makes sense to work in higher definition. Let's say you apply two operations: divide by 16, followed by mutiply by 16. If you work with 8-bit values, you end up losing a lot of data along the way (for example, value 10, divided by 16, becomes 0, and multiplied by 16, becomes 0 -- you don't return to 10). With 32 bit values, your original 10 is now represented as 10*(2**24). That value, after dividing by 16 and multiplying by 16, does not lose any precision. When you convert it all back to 8 bits in the end, your image is in better shape because you preserved your resolution during intermediate steps.
It is unclear why the first color layer selected (which becomes L) automatically selects for the light portions of the image.
Lost me right there at the beginning also. Not sure what I missed. Maybe you're recursively selecting something more from each level of "mask", but I can't figure out how desaturating the blue channel (was the blue channel arbitrary, btw?) somehow started recursively dropping lighter colors.
Like all your tutorials , this is great, I like the way you explain not just what to do but whty to do it (which many vidoes ommit). I am using your technique to tone down some very bright light sources on my photo. The photo is of a street in a city in China on a wet night with lots of white billboard highlights and refelction in the wet pavement. The problem I am having is if I take the LLL image and either reduce the exposure or reduce the brightness in both cases it does not only tone down the luminance, but it brings in a color cast, the more I change it the more intense the color. Is there a way around it? As a temporary measure I have added a top layer, filled it black, reduced the opacity to 5% then added the LLL channel leyer mask to it. This works but feels like a bodge, is there a better way?
You've done it again Mike, great video and tips, not only good for photography, I'll be able to use them to adjust artwork made in Blender. Thanks again for sharing.
Glad you found this technique useful. Thanks again for the great comment!
Nice tutorial. Would the L(uminosity) channel in LAB instead of blue in RGB be a better starting point for masks?
When you are adjusting the layers down to the first, why didn't you switched off the upper layers? Because the layers underneath the one above, are covered, thus the adjustments: not visibile
Thanks, I didn't have to rewind this n watch it several times, honest 🙃
Why not use bracketing and then with 1-2 masks to reveal the parts of the image you want?
Definitely a good idea for those who know how to properly use exposure bracketing! This is an alternative, however, for those who do not. Thanks for the comment!
I've tried this over and over again, nothing happens when I try adjust the exposure, colour etc. Is there something obvious i'm missing? The layers don't seem to blend.
@Abhishek Srivastava I found it. You need to make sure you selected the layer and not the mask. There is white outline around the active layer.
If I wanted to do the Jill Greenberg Effect couldn't I ...? or if you can, you would have to do all that procedure that you do in the Tutorial ...?
I have studied this technique extensively and understand the principles underpinning it. Putting into practice was a different matter. After creating the first L channel and when trying to make a contrast and brightness adjustment any change introduced a colour cast. For example: If I created L using the blue channel, any change resulted in either a blue cast or a yellow cast. It was not until I watched this video (after several others) I realised what was wrong: "Just make sure you click on the blue again (or whichever channel you used)" (3.25) WAS THE VITAL STEP! Revisiting the other sites, they all neglected to emphasise this step.
Thanks for a great video and setting me on the right track. Such a well produced video, very clearly explained. I have subscribed.
Much more control with this method. Thank you so much, as always.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is a very good tutorial Davies, I always use this technique to further enhance and adjust my photos after I'm done with Darktable.
But I think in Gimp 2.10.14 things don't work on the Light and Mid-tone Layer group, there is no effect no matter how much adjustment it's done to these layer groups.
Thank you for this. I am trying to learn Gimp and using this technique on one of my photos but a problem I am having is the Dark group on top isn't allowing the edits on the Light group below to show. What am I doing wrong? Subscribed.
Oops. I figured it out, I accidentally had inverse mask checked when applying mask.
Thank you for the tutorial. You introduced a plunging which supposed to do the same job but there is something wrong with mid tones. It just creates carbon copies of Ds channels. I tried it with intersecting the channels but it gives me different results. I think the manual version makes more sense. What's your idea?
Great video. Easy to follow. After making a few notes I was able to apply this technique fairly quickly to one of my photos. Choosing all the various settings is quite subjective-something I hope I can improve over time 🧐
Great video, thanks bro
Interesting technique. I'll have to try that. Also, I've been in that building several times as I live in the area.
The photo used in this tutorial requires membership to download. * Never mind. I found it. Thanks.
hiya is there a plugin for the mac to auto creat the masks pleas ?
Bit late to this video, but I've been watching a few of your other videos lately as I'm keen to learn how to use GIMP, signed up for the course via the link. Cheers.
Hope you enjoy the course - thanks for enrolling!
These are so helpful for people who make icons (journal userpics)!
How do you live without filter adjustment layers?
Amazing video bro. we need u in our life. you are the goat in gimp
Great tutorials as always. Curiously, how close to the final image could darktable have achieved?
Hi Davies following along nicely but when I come to adding the layer masks the channel drop down window is stuck in LL and won't let me choose any other option any idear why this is happening? I just restarted the whole prosess and I'm having the same issue. Would really apriciate your wisdom here thanks
OK I managed to apply the masks by
Moving the channel I wanted to the top of the channels list then applying the mask in layers!
So for example I'm a about to add the L layer mask but I must move the L, channel up to the top of the channels dialog box or I can't choose it in the drop down menu!
I Can't see why you wasn't having do do this 😂
In the channel drop down list, hold either ctrl or shift when selecting your channel
Love it 😎
your tutorials are very good.
I appreciate that!
Well I followed you all the way to about 11 minutes in with a picture of my own loaded in Gimp in another monitor. But when you started to edit each of the masks, my version of Gimp 2.10 didn't do anything. There are symbols on my version that aren't on the one you're using.
step 1 - make a copy of the image for each mask you want to apply
step 2 - add the mask to each layer making sure that the 'From channel' button is checked
step 3 - once the mask is added, click on the Image icon (left hand icon) in the layer list, otherwise, you are editing the mask and not the image
in the tutorial, at about 10:28, you will notice that Michael clicks on the left hand icon of the active layer―the active part of the image has a white box around it
now you should see some results. let me just say, i can't tell you how many times that i have forgotten to do this―i kid you not
Yeah, same here. Pretty disappointed to say that I followed along for almost an hour (at my speed) to hit a brick wall. My color settings just wouldn't change anything.
@@PaulSauve I had the same issue as VoiceDrew and graniteslaye and found it came down to a couple of factors, but mostly ignorance. Do EXACTLY everything that he does in this video. I even fully created the two extra midtone layers, which may not matter in the overall outcome, but it's where I discovered my issues. Once I rewound and did everything all over again I could better see what I was doing, and Paul is right, make sure you select the main left icon (pic and not the mask) before working on them. I also have the latest version of Gimp 2.10. Trust the process. :P I will say this is a bit of a lengthy hard process for a beginner that isn't familiar enough with the software or layers/masks, it may be helpful to watch those tutorials that Mr. Davies has provided on his website before tackling this. I also tried doing this with my own tragic photo, which had a lot of midtone and foreground vs. background issues, rather than the tutorial photo or one like it. I hope this helps.
@@PaulSauve thanks for that piece of information. I tried to copy everything twice but nothing happened. Now it does!
"click on the Image icon (left hand icon)"
Massive work! top
Thank you
Convert to 32bit for more data?. I think that is not true.
This is my over-simplified way of putting it, but the more complex explanation is that 32-bit images contain more tonal values (I believe it is above 4 billion) than, say, 8 bit-images (which contain 256 tonal values). I just refer to this as "more data" in the tutorial. I'll see if I can find a better way to represent this in a simple manner that makes sense universally.
but your original image was 8 bit. All that data that your talking about are only in raw file formats. I just don't get it.
By the way, thanks for your videos.
@@miguelangelsanchez8225 When you are applying multiple operations, it makes sense to work in higher definition. Let's say you apply two operations: divide by 16, followed by mutiply by 16. If you work with 8-bit values, you end up losing a lot of data along the way (for example, value 10, divided by 16, becomes 0, and multiplied by 16, becomes 0 -- you don't return to 10). With 32 bit values, your original 10 is now represented as 10*(2**24). That value, after dividing by 16 and multiplying by 16, does not lose any precision. When you convert it all back to 8 bits in the end, your image is in better shape because you preserved your resolution during intermediate steps.
@@DaviesMediaDesign "More tonal values" makes sense to me, and I have Asperger syndrome!
It would of course be better to start from the 32 bit raw if you have it but I wonder who could really tell the difference...
You're a badass.
Dá muito trabalho. Tem jeito de transformar isso em uma ação?
I just upgraded to 2.10 and the 'skin' automatically looks more like PS. Yours doesn't.
Nice! Yeah, I address that in my "GIMP 2.10: Top 10 New Features" tutorial. Check it out!