Awesome. I lived at Kirra in the late seventies and surfed it like that a number of times. Thanks for posting. It brings back great memories for me. Extraordinary wave!
Wow. Unbelievable rides, so sweet!! Love the fact that there is no music, only the sound of waves and to see a little bit of the paddle into waves which get cut out in most of today's videos.
I used to be able to watch big swells like this and bigger from my primary school classroom back in 78-79 the big groin was freshly built and i reckon kirra broke better back then no wonder i struggled at school hahaha surfed it heaps when i was a bit older and 10 foot plus was pretty heavy and scary for a young 16 year old being sucked down the beach from a cruisy greenmount point break
I remember paddling out at Kirra in 84 when I was just a teenager. I was scared to death by the pure empty power I saw, and I was a pretty confident surfer having been raised on the Tweed Coast. But, I never forgot it, every kirra shredder was out and getting these mesmorizing freight trains whilst I with my little skinny frame was paddling for the horizon trying to avoid the impact zone. It was both a thrill, and scary as. Good days 😊👍
@@vanmiddletonphotography I respect your opinion, as I do anyone else's, so please don't take offence when I disagree. 8-10 foot slabs draining practically all the water off the reef(sometimes ALL of it, haha), that's terrifying. Terrifying, but EPIC!!! 😉🤙 Take care man, smile, n may your next session be a cracka!! Yeeeeewwwwwww
@@davo_t well yes, 8-10 foot reef is even more terrifying. I've only surfed that size a few times, big Ulus and one crazy sesion at HTs 15 years ago. of course Kirra is fun compared to that stuff, but big groyne gets scary, and anyone who says otherwise is a regular at pipe or full of shite ;)
@van middleton Ok dude. I'm not sure why you seem so personally affected by what I said. I didn't call you a pussy bro, so there was no call for passive aggressively suggesting anyone is full of shite here. Once again though I'll disagree. N the fact you mention big ulus, which everyone i know agrees is probably one of the easiest waves in the world to surf triple overhead, and then HTs, as if they're anything similar. Ahhhh, yeah nah bro. Pushing into a steep drop at hts triple overhead HTs is a bit fkn different to that😉🤣🤣 8-10ulus has a friendly as fk take-off. Racetracks at low tide, now we're getting closer. Fks sake, 4 foot padang padang is way nastier than 8-10 ulus, anyone who's says different has not surfed them and is portraying clearly that they are most definitely "full of shite" themselves. N with that, ill leave you to ponder this: Your own comments say more about than you, than i could, or anyone on the internet... Now im torn between saying "peace dude n all the best", and "may a goatboater burn your next good wave"
Great audio, no crowd chatter or wind boom. It felt like I was on the cliff all by myself. Holding my breath as I watched the rides. Beauty. Who do I call to hire a jetskiPOVvideo of me? It looked like the surfer was conducting a memorial tribute of some kind. I hope. Big Wednesday Surf Camp? Perhaps those skis need a bouy on the outside they must tack around.
I was waiting for the terrifying 10 footers. That guy who brought down an elephant gun (at about 7:43) like it was 30 foot Waimea had me laughing though, the video was worth it just for him.
@@paulmolles4445 What makes you assume that rider is some feeble old man? Looks like they just made a shitty board choice given the conditions. Longboard and big wave guns are not the same. He can barely even maneuver that thing.
Yeah i think it’s the old “I don’t have a jet ski to taxi me back up the point so I’ll take a board that makes it easy to paddle against the sweep” logic When Kirra is like this you’re only trying to paddle against the sweep or trying to make a drop and stand there there’s not much else happening But you’re right I don’t see many 10ft’ers
Surfed a wave like this in Morocco, with the addition of a few rocks down the line ahah. Kirra looks so similar to this Moroccan wave, I hope I'll surf it one day, I'm sure the size tend to spread out the crowd!
Used to poke my head over the window sill at my flat at the Breakers block of flats and check out Little Groyne every morning (way back in about 1980). A lot of the time little groyne was better than the point if there wasn't a full on swell. Used to be such a sucky little barrel that made it a full on slab. But when it was pumping and big, it was insane out the point.
Why everyone is estimating the hight of the breaking waves when you can calculate it exactly😒?? The wave at 7:35 needs 0,78 to 0,81 secundes for breaking / falling down. I tried it 10 times avrg. is 0,79 secundes. The free fall formular is h = 0,5 * g * t^2. So h = 0,5 * 9,81 (m /s^2) * (0,79 s)^2 = 3,1 m (10,2 ft). And I don't think so that this wave is the biggest in the video. Even in Hawaii you can calculate it like this. Furthermore waves are not meassured from the front or back. Mechanical waves like water waves are meassured peak to peak (crest to trough) or amplitude (x-axis to crest or x-axis to trough). The x-axis is the calm sea level. Something like hawaiian scale, west coast scale, east coast scale, local style, australian style what ever style.... doesn't exist. No physical book shows you measuring waves from the front or back. The wave hight is 2 times amplitude. That's the definition. So we have at least a wave hight of 10 ft and an amplitude of 5 ft.
I think it all comes down to fitness and being prepared for the big stuff. I mean I hit Bali in the 70s and I was young and fit and litterally could free dive to 100 feet, and big surf just didn't worry me, but fast forward 20 years, with a lot less lung capacity, and some big wave sessions were just that, bloody terrifying. Still, I've had sessions in the islands where we had the use of a jetski and that just made it so easy.
that's more like 10 foot double over head. If the surfer is 5'10" that is easily double his height from bottom of face to top. Also kudos for not putting music behind it . sound of the waves is way better
Community: what do you think of the guys at 4:29? Good drop-in? Such a tough call in the moment... Also, how bout the guy dodging duck divers at 7:20? (Beautiful video. Thanks!)
These days it's pretty hard to call that a bad drop-in. Guys duck-diving are a bit like speed bumps, you don't want to hit them but they're everywhere. Too many people. Not just in the water, but at my local golf-course, fishing spots, petrol station, supermarkets, roads....and everyone is an expert with all the gear.....
@@positivethoughtlibrary The wave measurement should be done case-by-case depending of the spot, indeed, some waves like Teahupoo have a huge face and a not so big back, which doesn't provide to surfers an accurate information about the wave power.
@@positivethoughtlibrary Why are you trying to act hostile? Only because you read about the Hawaiian scale somewhere? Just because something is done in a specific way somewhere, does not mean that it's an intuitive and useful way to do it.
Looks like good barrels and just high speed type of drop but thats it terrina for someone that has been out of the surf for a few years or that doesnt surf or swim in the ocean would be very dangerous
1:02 ... U see what that guy did ? Watched someone drop in wayyy 2 deep. Everyone else disengaged from the wave for the next one. Only to have a perfect wave goto waste. Surfing Honolua Bay countless times I perfected this technique. One of 120 surfers would drop in at the point way to deep and I would scavenge sick waves from the cave to keiki bowls... My friends & hating nemesis' would always point out how many waves I catch in crowded conditions when the surf is pumping.. I would just tell em watch & learn lol... ALoHa
Yep. When I saw him paddling, I was thinking way too deep. Then the guy dropped in, and I thought what a snake, then reminded myself that the guy was way too deep and would not have made it anyway. HA!
8 to 10 been there done that and bigger then this..and we didn't have jet ski's and 10 times more hollower back when kirra was kirra..and the reason I know it was bigger kirra was 10 to 12 with 15 ft boms as look back in the days and movies kirra was breaking lefts on the outer reef and only 7 of us were out and pizza hut got flooded
I’ve been out at 4-6ft and it’s a serious wave. Hollow as and fast. Great watching the pros take it on but dishes out nasty beating to those who don’t paddle in to it fast enough.
@@rickjust nop it really depends from where you are in the world as we don't measure the same way in Europe, even the forecast app won't mean the same. And your level too. A pro would call those waves 6ft. 8ft/10ft is Teahuppo on a good day...
@@rickjust I'm a scientist and measuring wave is not a scientific calculation, it depends on people perceptions. You said a wave should be measured from trough to crest, well in physics maybe, but in surfing, most people measure from the back of the wave.
Awesome. I lived at Kirra in the late seventies and surfed it like that a number of times. Thanks for posting. It brings back great memories for me. Extraordinary wave!
Where are you now? Are you still surfing? The Gold Coast has changed!
I knew the locals then , great nights out at the jet club
Wow. Unbelievable rides, so sweet!! Love the fact that there is no music, only the sound of waves and to see a little bit of the paddle into waves which get cut out in most of today's videos.
I used to be able to watch big swells like this and bigger from my primary school classroom back in 78-79 the big groin was freshly built and i reckon kirra broke better back then no wonder i struggled at school hahaha surfed it heaps when i was a bit older and 10 foot plus was pretty heavy and scary for a young 16 year old being sucked down the beach from a cruisy greenmount point break
I remember paddling out at Kirra in 84 when I was just a teenager. I was scared to death by the pure empty power I saw, and I was a pretty confident surfer having been raised on the Tweed Coast. But, I never forgot it, every kirra shredder was out and getting these mesmorizing freight trains whilst I with my little skinny frame was paddling for the horizon trying to avoid the impact zone. It was both a thrill, and scary as. Good days 😊👍
Love kirra even more after watching this again.ive on the g.c and surfed it many times,the wave and the water there as good as anywhere in the world.
This wave is hypnotic. I just went on a total mind-surf trip.
Beautiful clip, lords of Kirra. Thank you for capturing. You are a legend 🤙🏼
nothing terrifying, just epic down the line barrels, over sand bottom. the dream.
sick to see, cheers for the vid! yewwww
big groyne kirra at 6 foot + is actually pretty terrifying.
@@vanmiddletonphotography I respect your opinion, as I do anyone else's, so please don't take offence when I disagree.
8-10 foot slabs draining practically all the water off the reef(sometimes ALL of it, haha), that's terrifying. Terrifying, but EPIC!!! 😉🤙
Take care man, smile, n may your next session be a cracka!!
Yeeeeewwwwwww
@@davo_t well yes, 8-10 foot reef is even more terrifying. I've only surfed that size a few times, big Ulus and one crazy sesion at HTs 15 years ago. of course Kirra is fun compared to that stuff, but big groyne gets scary, and anyone who says otherwise is a regular at pipe or full of shite ;)
@van middleton
Ok dude. I'm not sure why you seem so personally affected by what I said.
I didn't call you a pussy bro, so there was no call for passive aggressively suggesting anyone is full of shite here.
Once again though I'll disagree.
N the fact you mention big ulus, which everyone i know agrees is probably one of the easiest waves in the world to surf triple overhead,
and then HTs, as if they're anything similar. Ahhhh, yeah nah bro.
Pushing into a steep drop at hts triple overhead HTs is a bit fkn different to that😉🤣🤣
8-10ulus has a friendly as fk take-off.
Racetracks at low tide, now we're getting closer.
Fks sake, 4 foot padang padang is way nastier than 8-10 ulus, anyone who's says different has not surfed them and is portraying clearly that they are most definitely "full of shite" themselves.
N with that, ill leave you to ponder this:
Your own comments say more about than you, than i could, or anyone on the internet...
Now im torn between saying "peace dude n all the best", and "may a goatboater burn your next good wave"
Are y. The younger bros. Of scotty 'tube it Taylor ' . Arrragh bee garrrrah.... Radar danoah D.
Great audio, no crowd chatter or wind boom.
It felt like I was on the cliff all by myself. Holding my breath as I watched the rides. Beauty.
Who do I call to hire a jetskiPOVvideo of me? It looked like the surfer was conducting a memorial tribute of some kind. I hope.
Big Wednesday Surf Camp?
Perhaps those skis need a bouy on the outside they must tack around.
Deadmans is terrifying. This looks fun!
Cooking
I'm from South Oz but I used to stay at the Port o' Call . Loved surfing Kirra- one time I had it to myself. Sweet spot.
Dreamy
awesome with just the sound of the ocean. Great read not adding soundtrack
The most dreamiest wave I have ever seen from watching Cyclone Fever the movie and knew it’s the one!
MahaloNui Brudda for the Epic Footage,just watched it×3,left me feeling like I just got TROML.Cheers2U.Aloha
I was waiting for the terrifying 10 footers. That guy who brought down an elephant gun (at about 7:43) like it was 30 foot Waimea had me laughing though, the video was worth it just for him.
@@paulmolles4445 What makes you assume that rider is some feeble old man? Looks like they just made a shitty board choice given the conditions. Longboard and big wave guns are not the same. He can barely even maneuver that thing.
Yeah i think it’s the old “I don’t have a jet ski to taxi me back up the point so I’ll take a board that makes it easy to paddle against the sweep” logic
When Kirra is like this you’re only trying to paddle against the sweep or trying to make a drop and stand there
there’s not much else happening
But you’re right I don’t see many 10ft’ers
Thats not terrifying thats dreamy!
Surfed a wave like this in Morocco, with the addition of a few rocks down the line ahah. Kirra looks so similar to this Moroccan wave, I hope I'll surf it one day, I'm sure the size tend to spread out the crowd!
Anchor Point. I’m heading over there in June/July, hopefully there is some swell around.
@@rawsurfing Nop not Anchor mate! Way heavier, I think you know the one :) Kemper was there
@@pedrolito862 boilers?
@@andyetheridge nop raas lafaa ;) up North. But oh boy Boilers is hectic too ahah...can still feel the sea urchins in my feet
@@pedrolito862 safi?
Awesome I'll be heading there Monday!
Great vid….love the no music … so peaceful to watch even though it could be quite terrifying thank you.
Used to poke my head over the window sill at my flat at the Breakers block of flats and check out Little Groyne every morning (way back in about 1980). A lot of the time little groyne was better than the point if there wasn't a full on swell. Used to be such a sucky little barrel that made it a full on slab. But when it was pumping and big, it was insane out the point.
Hmmm, doesn't look terrifying but sure looks challenging and amazing when you hook into the right wave.
Shot from this angle it doesn’t look as heavy as it really is. Looking into the barrel you see how thick the lip is and how wide the barrels are.
Hmmmm. So you surfed it like this have you Sam?
Why everyone is estimating the hight of the breaking waves when you can calculate it exactly😒?? The wave at 7:35 needs 0,78 to 0,81 secundes for breaking / falling down. I tried it 10 times avrg. is 0,79 secundes. The free fall formular is h = 0,5 * g * t^2. So h = 0,5 * 9,81 (m /s^2) * (0,79 s)^2 = 3,1 m (10,2 ft). And I don't think so that this wave is the biggest in the video. Even in Hawaii you can calculate it like this. Furthermore waves are not meassured from the front or back. Mechanical waves like water waves are meassured peak to peak (crest to trough) or amplitude (x-axis to crest or x-axis to trough). The x-axis is the calm sea level. Something like hawaiian scale, west coast scale, east coast scale, local style, australian style what ever style.... doesn't exist. No physical book shows you measuring waves from the front or back. The wave hight is 2 times amplitude. That's the definition. So we have at least a wave hight of 10 ft and an amplitude of 5 ft.
Totally awesome! Puuuuuurrrrrfect Kirra!
Terrifying, but absolutely GORGEOUS.
Would love to see the water shots
Mid to late 90s was prime too!!
I think it all comes down to fitness and being prepared for the big stuff. I mean I hit Bali in the 70s and I was young and fit and litterally could free dive to 100 feet, and big surf just didn't worry me, but fast forward 20 years, with a lot less lung capacity, and some big wave sessions were just that, bloody terrifying. Still, I've had sessions in the islands where we had the use of a jetski and that just made it so easy.
This place looks amazing!
Isn't this pic that one in Golden Cost, near Snapper Rocks?
Who remembers the 70s and seeing MP take this break apart.
Michael Peterson. A flawed genius of surfing, especially at Kirra.
Now that truley pumping Kirra.
i love raw surfing footage so i subbed
Cheers 👍🏼
The ride of my life, yes, meaning the wave rides me.
Why are there jet skis out there?
Shot from up on the hill so yaa it's big enough, aussie rippers as usual. Good job guys.
Absolute chargers out here. The standard is joyous to see.
that's more like 10 foot double over head. If the surfer is 5'10" that is easily double his height from bottom of face to top. Also kudos for not putting music behind it . sound of the waves is way better
This 4-6 Hawaiian size cuz.
You talking California size.
Kirra point pumping!!
😂
Raw Surfing got it this time! 😂
First saw this wave on da road with spike .. LOST enterprises. Wow just wow
Did this swell hit on 17 May or was this posted 17 May? The sunshine coast was flat
5-6 ft mostly, but its a 2 tube wave for sure. Bigger would be exciting
Here in WA if you said that was 8-10ft your mates would take the pi$$ outta of ya the rest of ya life 😂😂😂
Where are the 8-10 footers?
Community: what do you think of the guys at 4:29? Good drop-in? Such a tough call in the moment...
Also, how bout the guy dodging duck divers at 7:20?
(Beautiful video. Thanks!)
No fucking snake.
These days it's pretty hard to call that a bad drop-in. Guys duck-diving are a bit like speed bumps, you don't want to hit them but they're everywhere. Too many people. Not just in the water, but at my local golf-course, fishing spots, petrol station, supermarkets, roads....and everyone is an expert with all the gear.....
Farkin jet skis aaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhh
I saw some big swells like that off the Georgia coast. It only happened because of a hurricane far off the coast. Trust me I didn't go in too scary!
The JetSki taxi ride back up the point really is cheating.
Jetski assist on small waves?
So, where's the "8-10ft" ?
I see solid 4-6ft, maybe pushing a couple of 7's..
Scope the dude on the canoe at 1:55, and then the guy on the 5'2" fish at 3:20. Shredders.
Canoe man was charging, even his kick out was canoey.
Mate, is this 'Straya?
One day I'm going to make it there. One day.
What year was this?
Damn I wish I could surf like that.
Where is this
Great footage, appreciate the ambient sound. Thanks! Terrifying? Looks fun! I must be a real stud.
Had my bordies ripped off there when I was younger and it was only 4ft. When it’s over 6-8ft it’s a scary line up to be in if your not a pro.
I'm not sure if this is 8 to 10 foot.
It's certainly not 6!!! But it ain't 10 either😁. Let's just call it a solid 8 and be done with it 🤙
These waves totally only have 4-6 feet faces. If these surfers are only 3 feet tall.
@@antoniusblock3316 wave size isn’t measured by the the face size in any decent surfers books.. go back to the drawing board champ
@@positivethoughtlibrary The wave measurement should be done case-by-case depending of the spot, indeed, some waves like Teahupoo have a huge face and a not so big back, which doesn't provide to surfers an accurate information about the wave power.
@@positivethoughtlibrary Why are you trying to act hostile? Only because you read about the Hawaiian scale somewhere? Just because something is done in a specific way somewhere, does not mean that it's an intuitive and useful way to do it.
Alucinante... vida longa.
Love this raw!! Power swell 😱
Very fast wave with cement bank in the 90's. Only faster wave I found was Tucky joes left in Maldives.
Plenty of 6 to 8, what happened to the 8 to 12's
YEEW!!!
Firing on all cylinders👍😎🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Where is Kirra please?
Gold Coastttt
Hank Warner is a shaper of notoriety here. I asked him what was his favorite wave in the world. He said Kirra.
Magnificent. This is life.
Since they were all paddle-in waves, and it isn't so big that they need rescue, why so many noisy, polluting jet-skis?
They are all filming probably.
Don’t know about 8 to 10 foot and terrifying bit of a over call solid 6 with a few bigger ones 🤷♂️
Pffft... it's 6ft. Paddle out 8-10ft (local ft) north Point in WA and you'll be more than terrified!
8 to10?
Looks like an epic day.
No ten footers were harmed in the making of this video
Epic reply Brudda, I busted up LlMmFfAaOo.Cheers
no way man that dreamy
I lived on the hill before high buildings, why did they take the rock away thats what created kirra waves
Not sure there’s enough skis in the lineup….
Looks like good barrels and just high speed type of drop but thats it terrina for someone that has been out of the surf for a few years or that doesnt surf or swim in the ocean would be very dangerous
terrifying..yet still only requires a shortboard.
But im here youtubing at work....how is this the ride of "my "life?
You must not be in a creative field.
Solid 6ft max
Yep, they're still riding shortboards!
High intensity ride at 1:55
1:02 ...
U see what that guy did ? Watched someone drop in wayyy 2 deep. Everyone else disengaged from the wave for the next one. Only to have a perfect wave goto waste.
Surfing Honolua Bay countless times I perfected this technique. One of 120 surfers would drop in at the point way to deep and I would scavenge sick waves from the cave to keiki bowls... My friends & hating nemesis' would always point out how many waves I catch in crowded conditions when the surf is pumping.. I would just tell em watch & learn lol... ALoHa
Yep. When I saw him paddling, I was thinking way too deep. Then the guy dropped in, and I thought what a snake, then reminded myself that the guy was way too deep and would not have made it anyway. HA!
I can imagine it’s like surfing Blacks Beach in San Diego on a proper swell.
What?
@@matthewroy7718
Don’t worry about it, place sucks, don’t surf there. Kook
I've surfed blacks many many many times. And I'll agree that it's up there with the raw power. Blacks can be terrifying that's for sure
Kirra is about a million times better. Black's gets big but it's a bunch of dorks on 8 ft. guns shoulder hopping.
@@charliedillon1400
Yeah I know, I was comparing the power of the wave, Blacks gets even heavier. The last comment got deleted for some reason.
no 10'ers but some fun ones for sure ;;
1:13 pull in ya kook… 😂
Pause it right at 1:03
What a day .... epic
8 to 10 been there done that and bigger then this..and we didn't have jet ski's and 10 times more hollower back when kirra was kirra..and the reason I know it was bigger kirra was 10 to 12 with 15 ft boms as look back in the days and movies kirra was breaking lefts on the outer reef and only 7 of us were out and pizza hut got flooded
those stacked lines are halcyon days .. the tubes can be so fat at mid tide fat bazzas
berrrrraaaaa so sick
Clock clean @ 1:21
Can't believe that guy cut in!! 4:00
Five minute electric 💡⚡ cycle ride from home 🏠.
8:38 Surfer “Takes it on the head” because the the paddler didn’t want to “Take one on the head”.
That does not look terrifying by the way, that looks inviting as fuck!!
I’ve been out at 4-6ft and it’s a serious wave. Hollow as and fast. Great watching the pros take it on but dishes out nasty beating to those who don’t paddle in to it fast enough.
@@rawsurfing Yeah I can imagine how heavy that is! beautiful
It's always beautiful and romantic until you get to paddle in.
@@nairdazitro7460 I'd rather die trying than watch
@@pedrolito862 What a tough guy you are.
Phenomenal.
Punch on thru to the other side .. Punch on thru punch on thru yeah yeah yeah
Close out ? .. No problem !
Just don't get suck back over da falls brahda
Looks fun. Not terrifying. It’s a sand bottom point break. Come surf north point that’s a scary wave
You call that 6 to 8? Looks a little bigger. Better be used to the late drop. Great wave, great athletes.
Wankers on Jet Skis in 6’ waves.
what a shame you could not be in the water and get head on camera rolling........sigh, good video, great waves just the same.
Not 8-10ft!
Just came from Nate Florence's Teahupoo massive paddle session to watch "terrifying" Kirra. Laugh my arse off
why do surfers not know how to measure wave height ? from trough to crest.
A cardinal sin in surfing is to overstate the size of any wave you rode. So deliberate understatement has become the norm.
@@doughannan6935 there is no such thing as a cardinal sin. It's just a made up idea. Whereas science of measuring waves is fact.
@@rickjust nop it really depends from where you are in the world as we don't measure the same way in Europe, even the forecast app won't mean the same. And your level too. A pro would call those waves 6ft. 8ft/10ft is Teahuppo on a good day...
@@pedrolito862 science measures the same all around the world
@@rickjust I'm a scientist and measuring wave is not a scientific calculation, it depends on people perceptions. You said a wave should be measured from trough to crest, well in physics maybe, but in surfing, most people measure from the back of the wave.