You all probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
A couple of points, if you don't mind me piggybacking.... A. Do NOT use isopropyl alcohol to clean your surface before cementing. It will bubble up your cement and it will not work. (ask me how i know) B. When trimming the edges after cementing, put your speaker on a HARD surface, not cardboard. If you try to trim on cardboard your veneer will flake apart like crazy. (ask me how i know) Just trying to help anyone trying this for the first time. Anyway, great video !
Nicely presented and super useful. I was literally going out to my shop to veneer a set of speakers today and would have spent a lot of time sanding the existing veneer, which is identical to yours. I did not realize it was vinyl. Wood glue or hide glue would probably not have worked, so you just saved me some aggravation. Thank you!
I was considering replacing the peeling vinyl veneer on some recently acquired vintage Sansui speakers, but after watching all the work it takes... I am DEFINITELY going to do it!! (only if the speakers sound good after my tech checks the cross-overs.)
Beautiful! I'm building a set of speakers now, and have a nice sheet of bubinga veneer. I don't have any experience with veneering, so might actually get some practice doing it on my old pair of Paradigm Mini Monitors. Thanks for demonstrating the process.
That's some spectacular grain in that veneer. Even without a finish it looks 3D. It's always a good idea to scuff sand a non-wood substrate prior to applying contact cement.
They look fabulous! Going to be building some diy speakers soon. I keep going back and forth between paint and veneer…not sure i have the patience for veneer but wow they look good!
Nice!! You are a brave man. I would have taken the drivers out, and everything else that could be detached. It's possible even the dress baffle can be removed (that's possible on some speakers). But I would have done that because I'm a complete klutz, LOL. With all the detachable stuff removed from the speaker, perhaps it might have been possible to lift the vinyl with a bit of acetone...
These literally are my shop speakers so I wasn't worried about it but yes If it wasn't for that I definitely would have removed the drivers. Luckily everything survived. :)
Thank you for the video. Can I add a pattern neck in a narrow area on the front border? I worked on a similar design of speakers as a film, but I'd like to work on the patterned wood again, but I'm wondering if it's possible with a small area in the front.
trying to fill this crack in my speaker where the black ash painting is falling off, what paint should i get for it. they're are the black ash Wharfedale diamond 9.1s. seeing different black ash paints but not sure which to get
4 months ago I did something like this - real Oak veneer ( pre glued ) 1 ft x 8 ft, $50..... and with zero veneering experience or tools, I'm saying B+ or A minus. only question, how long is the glue going to stick to the stock vinyl on the KEF Q350's > real good + speakers but obviously KEF tried hard to keep cost down with cheap finsh. tools I bought - curved linoleum knife ( worked before for me than a razor box cutter) and as 3 in. wide H.D. roller. thats it.
How is the adhesive holding up? I thought maybe roughing up the vinyl surface with like 400 grit sand paper might help the adhesion better between the veneer and the vinyl?
Thanks for all of the good real advice. My theater will be up and running shortly to all of the THX specs for a 7.2.4. (With a few exceptions due to duct work and plumbing but that’s life!)
Hi there! This is exactly the project I am planning to do, except on a brand new Triangle Br03 speakers I just acquired. Loving the sound, unfortunately not loving the very fake looking walnut vinyl. Does applying a layer of veneer over existing vinyl affect the speaker's acoustic performance?
On the front baffle it could. If the drivers are flush mounted and the veneer using is thick it could affect diffraction. But if it's thin it should be fine
I know this is a demo on how, at 6:34 the contact cement splash and the residual drips went to the speaker woofer. I think maybe wise to cover all the front with some plastic or masking tape. This would be much more than I would have ever done myself but still sad to see a good woofer get contact cement on it and paradigm ain’t cheap to replace
Cool project. Thanks for showing how to do that. Anyone else start feeling really anxious at 6:39 when the cement starts dripping down onto the baffle? NOOOOO!!!! (yelled out in voice of security guard in Austin Powers)
I saw it and it was an ohh crap moment! It wiped right off and did discolor the silver some. I'm the guy that drops the speaker or the drill slips and tears the cone so I actually did pretty good here. 😂
I have several sets of speakers that came from the factory with real wood veneer on them and a couple are really showing their age. They're also oiled finish so they've never really been "sealed". I've been up in the air for years now debating whether or not to attempt to recover them. The worst offenders are teak veneer, so that won't be cheap if I bone it. Decisions, decisions...
@@hometheatergurus Ehhh... For the most part it's kinda hard to make 'em worse. I've had reasonable success with just sanding and reoiling before so I'll probably start there again. Glass tops hide some sins too. ;)
Wouldn't it be better to add two coats to the porous (veneer) surface and one coat on the sealed vinyl? The directions on the can say the opposite of what you did.
I like your channel but this was a dodgy tutorial. I'm a perfectionist but I wonder why you didn't use a brush or a roller, glue is dropping everywhere, you even spilled some on the veneer. But good tips on softening and filling in the gaps, spot on!
You can buy larger pieces on the veneer site in the description. You can also lay them them side by side to cover a wider panel. There's lots of videos on UA-cam showing it. If you follow the steps it's not too hard. Also search for veneer book matching.
From what I've read, it's not a good idea to use contact cement if you plan on finishing with a penetrating type oil, such as tung oil, because the oil can possibly destroy the cement over time.
You keep saying they are OLD SHOP SPEAKERS, so any damage does not matter, then WHY even bother putting this veneer on them at all? Or am I missing something....??
thank you for sharing the procedure for treating veneer before applaying it. I suffered watching covering that sexy black with veneer and the glue leaking into the woofer suspension. It would have been better sticking veneer on to rough wood loudspeakers.
You're very welcome. I enjoyed covering the cheap stock vinyl black with sexy wood burl veneer. The drip of glue on the cone...well that's a mere battle scar that i'll tell my grandkids about.. hell you can tell yours about it too and tell them about your suffering.
UA-cam should require every DIY video maker to watch this video. Perfect.
Wow thanks! I just try and keep it as simple as possible and not look like a fool! 😁
You all probably dont care at all but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Elijah Colin Instablaster ;)
A couple of points, if you don't mind me piggybacking....
A. Do NOT use isopropyl alcohol to clean your surface before cementing. It will bubble up your cement and it will not work. (ask me how i know)
B. When trimming the edges after cementing, put your speaker on a HARD surface, not cardboard. If you try to trim on cardboard your veneer will flake apart like crazy. (ask me how i know)
Just trying to help anyone trying this for the first time. Anyway, great video !
Wow, such a cool rewarding project. I want to veneer everything I own now
😃
Nicely presented and super useful. I was literally going out to my shop to veneer a set of speakers today and would have spent a lot of time sanding the existing veneer, which is identical to yours. I did not realize it was vinyl. Wood glue or hide glue would probably not have worked, so you just saved me some aggravation. Thank you!
I was considering replacing the peeling vinyl veneer on some recently acquired vintage Sansui speakers, but after watching all the work it takes... I am DEFINITELY going to do it!! (only if the speakers sound good after my tech checks the cross-overs.)
This is awesome. I just picked up some older speakers and planning to follow this step for step. Thank you.
IMHO, it’s a must to remove the driver and other components, to avoid damages.
Beautiful! I'm building a set of speakers now, and have a nice sheet of bubinga veneer. I don't have any experience with veneering, so might actually get some practice doing it on my old pair of Paradigm Mini Monitors. Thanks for demonstrating the process.
That's some spectacular grain in that veneer. Even without a finish it looks 3D. It's always a good idea to scuff sand a non-wood substrate prior to applying contact cement.
Yeah I really like the look of burl. As for the vinyl, It definitely wouldn't have hurt to scuff it up.
They look fabulous! Going to be building some diy speakers soon. I keep going back and forth between paint and veneer…not sure i have the patience for veneer but wow they look good!
Nice!!
You are a brave man. I would have taken the drivers out, and everything else that could be detached. It's possible even the dress baffle can be removed (that's possible on some speakers). But I would have done that because I'm a complete klutz, LOL.
With all the detachable stuff removed from the speaker, perhaps it might have been possible to lift the vinyl with a bit of acetone...
No you would have done the right thing just take a good look at 6:36 what he did to the woofer .
These literally are my shop speakers so I wasn't worried about it but yes If it wasn't for that I definitely would have removed the drivers. Luckily everything survived. :)
Thank you for the video.
Can I add a pattern neck in a narrow area on the front border? I worked on a similar design of speakers as a film, but I'd like to work on the patterned wood again, but I'm wondering if it's possible with a small area in the front.
That softener trick would have saved me a lot of pain and anguish on my tower speakers! Great video.
Awesome video that will help many people. Subscribed.
Perfect video. Just the right amount of explaining. Thanks very much.
Thanks Tom!
@@hometheatergurus Do you know anything about balancing veneer ? I assume veneer over veneer needs no balancing ?
Brilliant. Exactly the advice I was looking for a similar project. Cheers mate.
Is cool how you apply the contract cement with the spatula. I never knew the right way to do it bot I see most people use a brush
I've seen a few different ways, this way seems to work pretty well.
Is that unbacked unfinished wood veneer? Does the vinyl act as a balance?
trying to fill this crack in my speaker where the black ash painting is falling off, what paint should i get for it. they're are the black ash Wharfedale diamond 9.1s. seeing different black ash paints but not sure which to get
4 months ago I did something like this - real Oak veneer ( pre glued ) 1 ft x 8 ft, $50..... and with zero veneering experience or tools, I'm saying B+ or A minus. only question, how long is the glue going to stick to the stock vinyl on the KEF Q350's > real good + speakers but obviously KEF tried hard to keep cost down with cheap finsh. tools I bought - curved linoleum knife ( worked before for me than a razor box cutter) and as 3 in. wide H.D. roller. thats it.
I would love to finish my projects like this but in the uk vaneer is really expensive
Need to redo the fronts black now. Looks so much better than before.
How is the adhesive holding up? I thought maybe roughing up the vinyl surface with like 400 grit sand paper might help the adhesion better between the veneer and the vinyl?
It's holding up fine. Can't hurt to rough it up though.
Great end result but I can't believe you didn't fully mask off the baffle and let glue drip in it lol.
It's some old speakers I'll be using in my shop so It didn't really matter. If it would have been living room bound I would have.
Thanks for the video. You recently recommended JBL 305’s for home theater. What would be a good receiver to pair them with? Thank you!
You're welcome. Any AVR with pre outs for all channels is all you need for the JBLs.
Thanks for all of the good real advice. My theater will be up and running shortly to all of the THX specs for a 7.2.4. (With a few exceptions due to duct work and plumbing but that’s life!)
Thanks for giving me more ideas to spend more $$$ 😆
You're welcome 😂
This is a great video! I'm subscribing.
Thanks Alex!
Ive got a few pairs of speakers that need exactly this! Thank you!!!
Great work and great video. I especially liked the commentaries as you went along with the project.
Absolutely beautiful!
I did this with a set of jbl 4312A monitors. Better looking than any factory version!
@ 6:35 - ... I'm watching that drip get closer... closer.... closer... DAMN! It's on the driver....
Haha yeah that was an edge of your seat moment..:)
Hi there! This is exactly the project I am planning to do, except on a brand new Triangle Br03 speakers I just acquired. Loving the sound, unfortunately not loving the very fake looking walnut vinyl. Does applying a layer of veneer over existing vinyl affect the speaker's acoustic performance?
On the front baffle it could. If the drivers are flush mounted and the veneer using is thick it could affect diffraction. But if it's thin it should be fine
I know this is a demo on how, at 6:34 the contact cement splash and the residual drips went to the speaker woofer. I think maybe wise to cover all the front with some plastic or masking tape. This would be much more than I would have ever done myself but still sad to see a good woofer get contact cement on it and paradigm ain’t cheap to replace
This is just an old speaker I had. If it was your nice speakers then sure. Cover the baffles.
Wow man, those came out awesome!
wow the finish is amazing !!!
PS I agree on the spray on laquer, it's a pain to use a roller and sand in between layers, spray can for the win
Well done video. No stuttering, constant um um um or obnoxious music.
Thanks! I managed to edit most them out.. 😂. I have gotten better since my first few videos.
Thank you for sharing this. Nice job.
great job. And they look great at the end.
Thanks!
Man, I love it, Thanks.
Great video!¡! Thank you!
Thanks Ryan!!!!
Nice job and spray action. Transformed look👍
Looking good man. Will be doing some veneer projects myself here pretty soon.
Good, you spread the ciment over the membrane, remove the drivers always!!!
Is it possible to mix the glue with a pigment and then fill in cracks?
Yep,you can also use dust collected after you sand it that will have the actual wood and pigment in it.
@@hometheatergurus That was actually what I meant. Thank you
Nice. Great tips! Thanks.
Nice job men
Thanks!
Another excellent video.
Thanks!
Top job !
6:33
Little drip going right into your speaker more like lol :D
Great job
Hey man great job! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
I believe a steam iron will work to flatten the veneer
It's flat as is but if you had issues maybe that would help.
Nice easy upgrade
Very!
yeah ...nice job!
cAN mix sawdust and glue to get better match in crack
Thank you very much..helpfully 👍👍👍👍
Cool project. Thanks for showing how to do that. Anyone else start feeling really anxious at 6:39 when the cement starts dripping down onto the baffle? NOOOOO!!!! (yelled out in voice of security guard in Austin Powers)
I saw it and it was an ohh crap moment! It wiped right off and did discolor the silver some. I'm the guy that drops the speaker or the drill slips and tears the cone so I actually did pretty good here. 😂
I stopped breathing for a minute there. Whew!
I have several sets of speakers that came from the factory with real wood veneer on them and a couple are really showing their age. They're also oiled finish so they've never really been "sealed". I've been up in the air for years now debating whether or not to attempt to recover them. The worst offenders are teak veneer, so that won't be cheap if I bone it.
Decisions, decisions...
Don't mess them up and blame me.. :)
@@hometheatergurus Ehhh... For the most part it's kinda hard to make 'em worse. I've had reasonable success with just sanding and reoiling before so I'll probably start there again. Glass tops hide some sins too. ;)
Very nice.
Hi, i enjoy every minute of the video, Thanks for showing and would like to shake your hand sir 👌🔥👍
Wouldn't it be better to add two coats to the porous (veneer) surface and one coat on the sealed vinyl? The directions on the can say the opposite of what you did.
Whatever it takes to stick. If the veener soaks up enough that you feel you need two coats, do two coats.
This is fantastic! Thanks so much.
Why not use a trim foam roller?
You can definitely use one if you prefer it.
not removed drivers???
no way, I prefer to live on the wild side. besides these are shop speakers.
That's fantastic.
Thanks!
Wow 🤩
great video as always brother, great job on the veneer!
Thanks!
I like your channel but this was a dodgy tutorial. I'm a perfectionist but I wonder why you didn't use a brush or a roller, glue is dropping everywhere, you even spilled some on the veneer. But good tips on softening and filling in the gaps, spot on!
Could you do this on a medium sized subwoofer or would the veneer pieces be too small? Do you need to use 1 sheet per side?
You can buy larger pieces on the veneer site in the description. You can also lay them them side by side to cover a wider panel. There's lots of videos on UA-cam showing it. If you follow the steps it's not too hard.
Also search for veneer book matching.
epoxy coat would have made them a lot prettier
I like a satin finish on wood but yes epoxy would look cool.
Nice
A shop is not worthy of these beautiful speakers!
Thank you
Watching the adhesive run down into the cone made me cringe 😬 06:50
I bet it did.. 😁.
From what I've read, it's not a good idea to use contact cement if you plan on finishing with a penetrating type oil, such as tung oil, because the oil can possibly destroy the cement over time.
Yeah I've read that too. If it had been on Mdf I would have used wood glue /iron method.
Can you plug your phone in here and play music?
👍👍👍👍👍👍Thanks.
Many years ago we used good old water😅
“See-ment” lol
lol i laughed too.. who says that?
Haha, i guess It's a southern thing as that's how most say it where I'm from.
probably sand the speaker surfaces down first and jeez protect the drivers for gods rakes!
It's shop speakers that I don't use so I didn't care if a little drip hit the drivers. Thanks for caring though.
You keep saying they are OLD SHOP SPEAKERS, so any damage does not matter, then WHY even bother putting this veneer on them at all? Or am I missing something....??
I had the veneer, I had the speakers, I wanted to make a video .... the end...:)
Yo watch dat splooge yo!
Ehat a hack,dude you keep getting glue on the sides and wiping off,thats where you should have taped off
It's a shop speaker, You care way more than I do. Thanks for watching!
6:38 oops
A lot of effort for an ugly result. You can see defects along the edges.
Your cat in that profile is so ugly.. I mean look at it. Look at those defects! 😜
6:36
Yeah the moment I saw it was definitely an ohh crap moment.
thank you for sharing the procedure for treating veneer before applaying it. I suffered watching covering that sexy black with veneer and the glue leaking into the woofer suspension. It would have been better sticking veneer on to rough wood loudspeakers.
You're very welcome. I enjoyed covering the cheap stock vinyl black with sexy wood burl veneer. The drip of glue on the cone...well that's a mere battle scar that i'll tell my grandkids about.. hell you can tell yours about it too and tell them about your suffering.
Испортил корпуса!😜
awful
I agree, awfully awesome. Thanks for watching! 😁