Warning for those disassembling the cross slide screw. One might get the impression that removing the coaxial (crank end) of the cross slide requires only unscrewing the nut casting directly behind the crank. This is what I thought because that's what you did (in reverse) when installing it. Yes, I did note that you aligned the key in the coax end with the key-way cut in the lead screw.. What I didn't notice is the Apron was absent when threading the crank assy onto the carriage. Therefore there was no interference when installing it. The bottom line is ( if the apron is installed ) the operator must loosen the two slotted apron screws enough to clear the mating gears in the Apron. . If you don't the crank assembly's power feed gear flutes will prevent its removal where it's meshing with the apron gears. This valuable info was conveyed to me by Dean at ua-cam.com/video/hGhaOVU8EPs/v-deo.html Dean responded to my plea within hours of me posting by problem removing the crank casting. This fact doesn't diminish the worth of your video though. Thank you for the video. Moreover a bigger thanks for not editing out those moments we all have searching for that pin, screw, nut or what ever. It was refreshing knowing it's not just ME! 🤪I hate myself for always being disorganized but I'm way too old to change now. Wakodahatchee Chris
Mine is a 1941 and has been slightly modified with the addition of a brass screw, perhaps to augment the tapered pin. Nice to see how it goes together. Thanks!
Thank you! I'm about to do mine, so it helps to get a little primer from someone before I open it up. Do you mind if I ask what year, approximately, is your machine? Mine is sort of a late model, so I will see how similar mine is to yours
Hi. Do you know which way the tapered pin comes out of the cylinder that sticks up? I can’t remove mine no matter which way I pound it. Looking at the lathe from the front, do you punch it out from right to left or left to right? Thanks, Paul
Looks like you indicated that it comes out the left side. So to remove, you punch from the right. I think mine is stuck. I tried heating the surrounding metal to no avail. Any ideas? Paul
I won't absolutely guarantee it comes out of that side without checking, its been a while since I put this together. If you can get calipers on the pin it should tell you which is the fatter end though. I don't really know any special tricks other than using a good punch.
@@gadget73 I’ve tried calipers and before I started mashing it, it looked like the right side was larger. So I started punching on the left side. All that did was smash the pin up against the cylinder and spread it out. After seeing your video, I started tapping from the right. That did nothing except move the pin a little bit. Now it’s mushroomed out. It won’t budge either way. I’m concerned about bending something if I hit too hard. It would also be difficult to drill out. Any suggestions Master? Your video was great and it’s obvious that you understand what I’m going through. But I would suspect that SB oriented the tapered pin the same for each lathe. It wouldn’t be one way on my lathe and another on yours, would it. Paul
I know this is going to be a stupid question. How do you make the cross feed follow the taper attachment? I just bought a South bend and I'll be honest I don't know what the hell I'm doing
tighten down the handle that sticks up through the "tongue" bolted to the cross slide. The handle threads on on that piece in the middle of the cross slide where the taper pin goes. Once thats tight the slide is locked to the taper, and if you clamp the taper to the bed it will move the cross slide for you. Or if you don't have the taper locked down it can be used as a cross slide lock if you need to do that for some reason.
Warning for those disassembling the cross slide screw. One might get the impression that removing the coaxial (crank end) of the cross slide requires only unscrewing the nut casting directly behind the crank. This is what I thought because that's what you did (in reverse) when installing it. Yes, I did note that you aligned the key in the coax end with the key-way cut in the lead screw.. What I didn't notice is the Apron was absent when threading the crank assy onto the carriage. Therefore there was no interference when installing it. The bottom line is ( if the apron is installed ) the operator must loosen the two slotted apron screws enough to clear the mating gears in the Apron. . If you don't the crank assembly's power feed gear flutes will prevent its removal where it's meshing with the apron gears.
This valuable info was conveyed to me by Dean at ua-cam.com/video/hGhaOVU8EPs/v-deo.html
Dean responded to my plea within hours of me posting by problem removing the crank casting.
This fact doesn't diminish the worth of your video though. Thank you for the video. Moreover a bigger thanks for not editing out those moments we all have searching for that pin, screw, nut or what ever. It was refreshing knowing it's not just ME! 🤪I hate myself for always being disorganized but I'm way too old to change now.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Mine is a 1941 and has been slightly modified with the addition of a brass screw, perhaps to augment the tapered pin. Nice to see how it goes together. Thanks!
A brass lead screw, or a brass screw to hold the tube into the part on the taper attachment?
Thank you, what a time saver
Thank you! I'm about to do mine, so it helps to get a little primer from someone before I open it up. Do you mind if I ask what year, approximately, is your machine? Mine is sort of a late model, so I will see how similar mine is to yours
I'm told mine is a 1957 model. I don't think they changed very much over the years though.
I see you posted 10L and you are working on a Heavy 10. I own two Light 10s and thought a 10L was the light 10? Thanks,Steve
The 10L is the large bore (1 3/8" through the spindle) heavy 10. 10K is the light 10.
Hi. Do you know which way the tapered pin comes out of the cylinder that sticks up? I can’t remove mine no matter which way I pound it.
Looking at the lathe from the front, do you punch it out from right to left or left to right?
Thanks,
Paul
Looks like you indicated that it comes out the left side. So to remove, you punch from the right. I think mine is stuck. I tried heating the surrounding metal to no avail. Any ideas?
Paul
I won't absolutely guarantee it comes out of that side without checking, its been a while since I put this together. If you can get calipers on the pin it should tell you which is the fatter end though. I don't really know any special tricks other than using a good punch.
@@gadget73 I’ve tried calipers and before I started mashing it, it looked like the right side was larger. So I started punching on the left side. All that did was smash the pin up against the cylinder and spread it out.
After seeing your video, I started tapping from the right. That did nothing except move the pin a little bit. Now it’s mushroomed out. It won’t budge either way. I’m concerned about bending something if I hit too hard. It would also be difficult to drill out.
Any suggestions Master? Your video was great and it’s obvious that you understand what I’m going through. But I would suspect that SB oriented the tapered pin the same for each lathe. It wouldn’t be one way on my lathe and another on yours, would it.
Paul
I know this is going to be a stupid question.
How do you make the cross feed follow the taper attachment?
I just bought a South bend and I'll be honest I don't know what the hell I'm doing
tighten down the handle that sticks up through the "tongue" bolted to the cross slide. The handle threads on on that piece in the middle of the cross slide where the taper pin goes. Once thats tight the slide is locked to the taper, and if you clamp the taper to the bed it will move the cross slide for you. Or if you don't have the taper locked down it can be used as a cross slide lock if you need to do that for some reason.
Thank you