TLDW #19 - Bladesmithing at the Museum Swordsmith Forge
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 лип 2017
- **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking.
The sunobe stage is at 4x speed as the hammering was fairly inaccurate due to a blister on my palm from the seam of the yellow gloves...starting material was a harrow tooth, finished blade is hirazukuri, iori mune, 140mm / 5.5" nagasa, 6.5mm motokasane...more info below...
0:20
1. the harrow tooth is first forged into a sunobe, a blade preform, that has a rectangular cross section with the proper thickness and distal tapers for the spine and tang as well as a small notch where the mune machi will be...(dead battery zone)
2. then the iori mune, the peaked spine, is forged...
3:00
3. then the bevels are forged in, working from the machi towards the tip and then back down again, followed by the forging of the tang in this case...during the beveling stage the spine tends to curve upwards so a stump between the anvil and forge is used to make downwards adjustments in advance from time to time, the wood will not mar the peak of the spine...also during this stage water on the anvil keeps the scale from building up and being forged into the surface of the steel...
7:19
4. the nakago (tang) is also shaped and beveled using the same techniques as the blade...
9:11
5. some final planishing, adjustments, and straightening along with a hot stamp "signature" on the tang bring the hizukuri stage to a close...the finish will be tsuchime (hammer texture) so there was no filing/polishing before yaki-ire...
10:16
6. yaki-ire (quenching/hardening) was done at my own forge for the dim and consistent light conditions, allowing the colour to be seen more accurately...
11:10
7. yaki-modoshi (tempering) is a slight reheating to remove some of the stress and increase toughness after hardening...
islandblacksmith.ca/process/
Amazing work, you never seem to disappoint. Videos like this are what drive my passion for bladesmithing and help me achieve higher quality blades. Thanks for your help and keep up the great work.
carry on the journey towards excellence!
Having looked through your catalogue of past videos I have three things to say to you. First, what an honor it is to have someone who is clearly so knowledgeable about this ancient and secretive craft making videos on UA-cam. Secondly, it is so generous of you to share this information so freely, dearly bought with time and experience. And lastly, it is only a matter of time before people discover this channel and your subscriber count will skyrocket.
...i know how hard it is to find most of this information in english so i am happy to put some out there to help bring up the quality and detail work of anyone who is interested in pursuing the excellence of craft...
The hands in this family!❤️💯
It was to pleasure to see the manufacturing process. Can't wait to hold it in my hands!
Always love seeing a vid from you!
Thanks for another great video! So god to see your technique for forging the bevels.
glad it is helpful to you!
loved the work wow
I searched for a vid last NIGHT!! and this didn't come up I was searching for you!! what the heck!! anyway!!! wooooo!!! get it man!
You know not many people water their anvils these days, or even understand why you would. But it is great for removing scale.
indeed!
I take it that the hammer shape with a taper towards the hitting face allows a more focused pressure hit for spreading metal, and the hammer with a taper towards the handle provides a less focused hit for smoothing? (Less weight behind the face and a wider surface area). I’m still figuring out the right hammer for the job, and trying to confirm whether my slightly shaky physics schooling from decades ago is correct XD
i am not too sure about how that works, fortunately you learn to use whatever you have pretty well...but the idea with sword smithing hammers is that you want to keep the face fairly narrow as the blade is narrow and you end up hitting with the rim or denting your anvil if the face is too large...weight forward is better for control on thin, flat surfaces...the rest is just how much weight you want behind the face and how much height from your anvil to get the angles right for your natural position...also, the finishing hammers have a flatter face than the heavy moving hammers, that is definitely physics!
I love the litening of forge by bambus rubbing
it is a very interesting technique!
hello! nice work! i don't know if you take sugestions but could you make a yari (even better if a jumonji yari)? i didn't found anyone here in youtube. once again nice videos :)
i have no video of the yari but you can catch a glimpse of it here: ua-cam.com/video/_206VA-Vhv8/v-deo.html
and close up near the end: ua-cam.com/video/pFmuIAZjhb0/v-deo.html
and the whole process in photos: islandblacksmith.ca/2015/07/hatsu-sankaku-yari/
Wish I could be up there today, alas I must work overtime tonight. Ill be working the next 4 weeks too. :(
the charcoal and coal forges are closed now to protect the historical buildings during the dry spell...so i am pretty much done at the museum for the summer unfortunately...
That looks like fun! I have never seen you use that hammer with a really small face before. What kind of event is going on around you? Is the museum open every day, or is the forge fired up for special events?
it was one of the hammers we worked on earlier at the museum, it is usually for tuning and cold straightening but i wanted to test the weight for forging...the market is every friday and the museum is open during that time too...but due to serious fire risk this year the charcoal and mineral coal forges are already closed early in the summer...this was the only footage i got while working there unfortunately...
Hello,
Thanks for sharing. As your habit, it's a great video.
After tempering, you do a destress reheat ?
;)
yes, after yaki-ire (hardening/quenching), i do yaki-modoshi (heat again slightly to temper the steel, tempering means removing some stress and increasing toughness)...usually i do it over the embers of the fire, and depending on the blade and the steel i may do it again in the oven if necessary...
Thanks.. ;)
Great stuff. Is that a natural clay that you put on the blade, or some kind of commercially available refractory?
it's a pretty traditional mix of natural clay, charcoal powder, and polishing stone powder...
Just a question, why do you put water on the anvil? I've always been curious as to the reason of why blacksmiths do this?
good question! water on the anvil keeps the scale from building up and being forged into the surface of the steel...lots more info in the description and on the website... islandblacksmith.ca/process/
Hello Dave i would like to know what kind of tongs is that?
i don't know what to call them, but i made them to hold this type of tang for forging blades...
what liquid was being put on the anvil face?
Generally you would use water. That helps to remove the scale.
yep! lots more info in the description...
+Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith
I would like to ass you permission if you will allow me to, screen shot you forging, then present in in my video projects here on youtube, that I will soon upload. I need high quality shots, and I am sorry if what said was stupid last time I spoke to you
and if you say No, it is ok I will understand
my suggestion would be to start your channel and do a few episodes and once you know the style and direction you want to go with it, we can talk again...in general i would encourage you to credit others and give references and links to all your sources of information, and speak only of the things you know from credible firsthand sources...provide genuine content within your knowledge and experience and the subscribers will come in time...
ok then, I apologize for last time, because I kinna said something anoyying
i just want to encourage you to only pass along information from good sources, there is more than enough misinformation and hearsay feedback on the internet... (0___o)
Well either way, carry on and have a great day, I love your work, and your tutorials gave me an idea on how to make a tsuka(although mostly I learned from walter, but his tutorial is not as clear as yours, he does not go step by step). What I like about ur how to carve a handle tutorial is you filmed the entire process no cuts, skips, or fast forwards. Well I am about to make a new tsuka for my Tanto, wish me luck