Thanks for the response, Roger! I’ll get a mains pressure gauge on there in the next couple days, and time a couple buckets for flow, and just see what’s really going on. Then I may be back for more advice!
Love these videos Roger. Many thanks for all your hard work. My God, the amount of knowledge and experience you must have stored up in your head must be phenomenal! 😎👍🏻
You prolly dont care but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Damon Dillon i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hello Roger, I have a question for you ….… I have a damp patch, which I started to notice last week after my visit to my Aunty Janes, a rather busty woman in her thirties, with a generous curve around her gable end, could the damp patch be due to my old lad acting up or do I need to get out more ? Yours sincerely, Mr J Butterthwait, South Hills, Devon.
Another good podcast with good advice, Roger you can still get the old scrim but its mega money compared to the fibber glass scrim, the plaster board ceiling cracks in my experience are mainly due to bad installation ie no gap between boards and the boards not staggered like stretcher bond format, and the lack of screws or nails used to support the boards, keep up the good work Roger and Robin
In regards to the damp below the window I had a similar problem, water was seeping into the living room window from above I lifted the floorboards up in the bedroom, below window above could not see anything looked outside and part of the mastic had lifted, I noticed as I was taking the old mastic off that the trim bead of upvc that was fitted on the bottom of the window to the sill (4 inches wide) I could push in on inspection I found gaps in the expanding foam they had put behind I took the interior sill off In the bedroom and it was soaking wet, water was coming down through the old stone and rubble (Stone house no cavity wall) water would only come in at certain times ie when rain was blowing directly on the window. I took old foam out put new in and put some mastic at the bottom of the foam then resealed the trim. waiting now to see if this has worked. As for the cracks in ceilings, I found painting and decorating on you tube who gave a great tip make some holes about 6 inches apart using screwdriver rake out rest of crack fill holes with expanding foam trim off when dry push slightly in dampen holes and crack with water down pva fill with filler.
Thanks Roger and others, Phil here. Don't think it's condensation, as there is none anywhere else in the room or the house. There is very little overhang on the gable end. As far as I know this is how this wall of the house was built. It's rendered double skin heavy weight blockwork. It's been added to in many phases over at least 150 years. I had wondered if water was getting in the top of the cavity under the roof. Will try and take a look, although not an easy place to get at!
I don't see a drip channel under the window sill. That will cause problems. Looks like the outside render has been built out past the drip channel which means rain water will find it's way into the drip channel and soak whatever is inside the cavity and eventually soak through into the interior wall. Get on a ladder clamp a straight edge under the window sill and gouge out a channel with a sharp screwdriver or corner of 10mm wood chisel and paint the groove to protect the wood fibres. Multi tool will do the job too but hey, if you've not got any tools use whatever you can, a 4 inch nail dragged along a clamped straight edge with several passes will do the same job. Nice and tidy.
Regarding insufficient water flow - good idea you mentioned to check that the street shut off valve is fully open - also check any existing mesh filters in case they are clogged with scale. This is especially so when you have hard water.
Excellent and v informative video. Think you are probably spot on with regards the damp. An invasive inspection with an endoscope might reveal lack of cavity inslation or even a bridged cavity.
@@SkillBuilder it is difficult to comment further without inspecting the property but it may well be the case that improved ventilation will help. Going further it might be worth checking if the cavity wall installation is covered by a guarantee.
The damp patch on the gable window? - If the house was rendered, have they reduced the gable overhang of the roof? Could the gable tiles be damaged and water is going down the cavity? Is there a drip on the cill?
Rainwater can track through the cavity especially if the beads are bonded when they have been injected and that point may be a terminating point for where it tracks due to a hollow, it might be coming from the roof edges and driven into the cavity especially if the wall faces driving rain. But you’re right about eliminating internal condensing first...that might be the solution.
I had to replace a upvc window for a client last year with a very simillar damp problem , the original installer had drilled down through the frame to fix it!
Hi Roger, regarding the cracking in the plasterboard ceilings, do they use paper tape on the joints in the UK? It’s standard in most other places in the world. The mesh tape is only used to reinforce small repairs/ patches here as there is no lateral strength in mesh. I agree wet framing timber is always going to cause problems. Here in NZ we are not allowed to line with plasterboard until the moisture content is less than 12%. Thanks for all the great content
A great deal of knowledge being shared in this video with some excellent advice, with regard to the plasterboard I still have a roll of the hessian joint tape, plus could the problem be the thickness of the plasterboard being used. 👍👍👍😀
As a prehistoric plasterer I concurr with your findings Roger - Re the ceilings cracking :-) The old Jute Scrim could be a pain in the bum at times, especially when doing Cottage-Style houses like I did with #Westbuild back in the day. You could lose a day just scrimming up. But leaving a nails-width between each plasteboard joint made sure those boards never came apart. And Yes, a three-coat finish made sure you NEVER saw those Jute-Scrim-Joints :-) As for the plasterboard these days? It all seems TOO BRITTLE and cracks very easily. Back in the day you could get a really good bend before it would snap in two, today they need a LOT of support in transit and in fixing :-(
HI ROGER, IN RESPECTS OF THE CRACKED CEILING, OPEN THE CRACK, THEN FILL THE CRACK WITH MULTI FINISH, WHEN DRY, SEAL THE JOINT SURFACE WITH PVA, WHEN THIS IS DRY, THEN USE 50MM GAFFER TAPE OVER THE JOINT, AND THEN APPLY 1OOMM SELF ADHESIVE SCRIM TAPE OVER THE GAFFER TAPE, AND THEN PLASTER WITH MULTI FINISH WITH PVA IN THE MIX, FOR THE FIRST PLASTER COAT. (DONT AFTER TO DO THE WHOLE CEILING WITH PVA MIX) JUST WHERE THE CRACK IS, OBVIOUSLY WIDE ENOUGH TO COVER THE 100MM SCRIM TAPE. ANY MOVEMENT IN THE PLASTER BOARD SHOULD STAY BEHIND THE GAFFER TAPE UNSEEN IN THE SURFACE. IF IT RE APPEARS, THEN OTHER ISSUES MAY BE THERE ?? LIKE INADEQUATE JOIST SPAN, ABOVE LOADING, ETC. CHEERS
I saw an excellent method used in the US for decking (and maybe more serious) foundations. Drill suitable holes into the ground, 6 inch (150mm) upwards, with a post hole drill. Depth depending on your project. Drop in a cardboard tube and wedge it in plumb and tight. Cut the tops off level. You can add rebar if you like. Now fill the tubes with concrete and add J bolts at the top. You have just made properly strong reinforced concrete piles with no crane or fancy machines. The card tubes set everything level and eventually rot away.
HI Dave I do the same thing with 6inch plastic pipe. The rebar is a good idea but the plastic tube keeps it tight and allows you to vibrate the concrets to make really dense piles.
I would also say regarding ceiling cracks that more and more people are choosing not to have artex ceilings which would cover this issue to a certain extent in the past. Concerned about what’s in my plasterboard now!!😲 🏭
I put down weed barrier under gravel in my back yard, had nothing but weeds for years. When I put a base down for a shed I dug up the weed barrier and haven't paved it since (6 months ago) and guess what, no weeds. RE: Stop tap, found one under my floor after years of rubbish water pressure, it was 80% closed +
I havent yet seen cracks form when the ceiling board joints have been staggered (or half bond like brickwork) ... if all the boards end or start on the same joist the whole way across the ceiling (straight nic) a crack will form across it...
@@MrJFoster1984 Hi thanks for your comments l have used nails and screws for plaster board for more than 35 years the screws for the last 15 years l screw every 6 inches old school or 150 mm and never have two screws on butted boards together, cracks and fixings plaster fail is down to poor installation the more area of board to have screws or nails the less chance of cracking, l was also taught to stagger the boards and any floating edges to have noggins, as you said about fixing dot and dab with mechanical fixings in fire hazed areas insulated boards have them in every board regardless of where they are installed once again thanks for your comments.
Wet timber, where do you start ? Once upon a time a timber yard would keep everything under cover so you at least had a fighting chance of getting reasonably dry timber. Sometimes I can barely lift a 4.8m 8x2 onto the roof of my van, its ridiculous. As far as shrinkage is concerned, I avoid using sawn timber joisting whenever possible, i'll use either OSB I joists or metal web joists. I've seen 9x2 joists that have shrunk by 10 mm over their depth, you can get your fingers under the skirting boards ! How the hell can you finish a wet room and think its not going to leak in a years time. I just wont do it. We have just put in a load of metal web joisting at a cost of nearly £2500 compared to about a grand for sawn timber, but I garauntee the floors wont shrink. We always use engineered tru-stud for studwork, it's more expensive but its dry and straight. You get minimal shrinkage and minimal cracking. If I have to use "normal" timber" , for instance if i'm extending an existing timber floor, then I get kiln dried TR26 timber from my Truss manufacturer. Its twice the price but its dry and wont shrink. If your laying expensive flooring you simply can't have lots of movement and shrinkage. Re the cracks in the ceilings, remember all joints should be supported on either a joist or a noggin, you shouldn't have any unsupported edges.
Nick Haley I don’t know when everyone decided they didn’t have to nog ceilings anymore, you never see it. I remember nothing out ceiling after ceiling as an apprentice until we started using 15mm boards for the ceiling but you don’t see that very often
When im making my stud walls i plasterboard the whole upstairs ceilings first and riddle them with screws 200mm apart. Then i make my stud walls a little bit tight with a double sole plate and knock them in with a sledgehammer so it elimimates a bit of shrinkage also i put a bonding coat on the ceilings first before i finish plaster them .dont get any cracks.
chill pill if ur doing a new build or extension u get the privilege of boarding the whole ceiling but it all gets a bit complicated when it’s a refurb or knock thru and your matching and patching in. Although in this day when we all have the whole worlds knowledge in our pockets there’s no excuse for not aspiring to best practices but that’s what sets us above the competition! Now we just have to explain to the customer why we’re more expensive than the other quotes!
Need to acclimatise the timber to the new conditions it will be used in where possible.The ceilings possibly needs expansion/control joints as opposed to making it rigid especially in larger areas. This can be done with the installation of purpose made trims like the ones in this link. images.app.goo.gl/U9Y99bmCwb8otUh28 Similar to control joints used in brickwork and concrete, everything in a house/building moves on a daily basis and you need to allow for this. The local manufacturer's rep should be able to point you in the right direction to their installation literature such as this for us www.gyprock.com.au/resources?filter=system installation. Search the net for Gyprock installation guide for an example and you will find a PDF document which covers a lot of info. 👍
What a brilliant channel ( subbed) everything explained simply and factually ( ideal for my limited brain ! ) love the explanations , looking at potential damp on stone built French property ? Stay safe love from mid wales
Looks more like condensation to me. Especially if there is a small cupboard/unit against the wall in winter. Ventilation in windows, decent gaps under the doors or leave them open and raise the ambient heat up a bit to keep the temperature of the walls up and of course, remove the source of the damp ie: people drying their clothes inside, showers without extractors etc..
Hi all. As a window installer of 35 years i have seen problems like this damp patch regularly on remedial work. 1. We often see on old upvc or aluminium frames that we have replaced, where the cill was screwed right through the bottom rail of the window where water drainage is meant to sit and gradually escape via weep holes, onto either the seperate cill or via face caps. The exposed screws or screwheads allow sitting water to corrode the fixings and eventually let water penetrate into the cavity beneath. 2. Where the cill and window frame are coupled together it is frequently observed that the whole 70mm or so of END abutment is not sealed .. therefore allowing drainage water or standing water to be wind blown sideways into the masonry / plaster. Difficult to retrofix , but i have sometimes drilled deep into the bottom reveal and used a piece of tubing attached to the sealant nozzle to reach all the way back to the plasterline. or even remove a bit of plaster internally and fill the end of the cill / frame with MS polymer sealant. 3. And of course it is vital that a cill has adequate overhang and either a capillary or drip to displace water away from the wall. This guys damp problems can be caused by a combination of all the suggestions as well as some of mine. It is a common problem... Properties without insulated cavity closures can also be problematic..
re: Reverse Osmosis (RO) system: Just to underline what the great man said - you would only use a RO system for your drinking water (e.g. have a system under the kitchen sink supplying a drinking water faucet). They are fantastic systems for purifying water (I use one to extract our drinking water from a private spring on a farm) but when you consider how they work (a small proportion of the water molecules from your 'dirty' water being forced via pressure to migrate through an incredibly fine plastic membrane) you can understand that compared to a simple filter cartridge system they are both very slow and 'waste' lots of water. A RO system typically uses 6 litres of water to produce 1 litre of drinking water (the rest will be flushed away in the process)...and a typical system may take 15mins to produce that single litre - again ok for drinking water, pretty useless for anything else. RO is probably overkill for mains water in any case; mains water is already bug-free so a simple water filter cartridge system will improve the taste and will produce 1 litre of drinking water for 1 litre of mains water.
Thanks! We’re using a small RO system now in our rented house, and I may transfer it to the kitchen sink in Ely, just for drinking water (and the kettle, of course!) and then looks like I’ll do a softening system for the rest of the house. Thanks for the expertise!
Cavities need an air space, cavity, to breathe. If its blocked as it is with the polystyrene balls, air can't circulate. Cavity could also be bridged by mortar. The external leaf of a cavity is for aesthetics and weathering with the internal being load bearing. You can get cold air which passes through a small air space such as behind the skirting board, as this meets the warm air it will condensate. See if you can hire a Flir thermal imaging camera or have an inspection done by some one with the camera, it will show you if there is mixing of air of different temperatures at this point causing condensation. If you need to bolt timbers to the house for your deck, on your perimeter/ring joist you can use washers or hard plastic packers to space the timber off the wall and allow water to pass between the timber and wall and prevent moisture build up, and subsequently prevent timber rot. A free standing structure using bearers and joists is another alternative. I like Rodgers idea for the posts/stumps. Interesting because it is similar to a pier liner in concept. Cheers 👍
Hi Roger, where do you get the plastic pipe for the deck footings. The US use specially designed cardboard form tubes but can't find them anywhere. Even plastics tube I'm struggling to find at a large enough size. I'm thinking 8inch for ground level deck.
In the UK is not hard to find plastic drain pipe but most of it is 4 inch. The 6 inch stuff is avialable from merchants and it is often posible to find stuff on dumpsters.
Hire a FLIR camera or purchase the one for an iPhone, if you have an iPhone. Might be worth checking the temps of the wall, inside and out. This may help if the insulation has a void in the wall
Cracking video, well look forward to these. Phil Dunford problem - Your guess is as good as any ones (actually, it is better) and it looks really centred to the left of the socket, I wonder if someone chased out too much and broke through blockwork? If it were my house I would turn power off a break out to left of socket. I hate damp :( I wondered about the overhang like LEEDS8 as well. I wonder if the cavity fill was before or after the replacement glazing, that might be a clue in itself? May be the glazing install broke out any frame and the balls were sucked up by the glazing installer before he put the new frame in? ...I should probably get back to fixing the toilet :( Keep up the good work!
Bikerchris think you could be right there had this myself on a job and previous contractor had made good with bonding that acted like a sponge absorbing any damp that might be in the wall, hacked it out replastered in waterproof sand cement problem solved
I have often seen gaping holes left by window installers in the corner angles when the render is already on. Then they get filled with expanding foam and finished with some filler. Infact I have had exactly this problem on the house and water was pouring down the cavity, I discovered it when I was painting the wall inside near the reveal and the paint wouldn't dry. Depending on Roger's opinion, an option might be to have someone take the window out to investigate, which is not a difficult job to do.
for Any Damp problems there is a guy on You Tube called Simon Cooper HNC he puts lot of vids up easy to watch . I've not seen anyone better he gives loads of information and he gets back to you . Skill Builder would really benefit getting in touch with him or better still interview him . he's a good man. good luck
Am I the only person who is a little skeptic when it comes to using plastic on the outside of the building for let's say water-proofing or as panel? Also I'm in general a bit conserned about plastic products meant for use outside as I've seen bad composite decks, and cracked outside plastic panel. For me the best building product will be wood and metal.
Most plastic is degraded by UV light. Even UV resistant plastic has additives or coatings that wear away with time. Truly UV safe plastic is more expensive which is probably why it's not used more
I thought one of the photos looked like some one had put white sealant over the cracks in the lead and swirled it over the surface with their finger in an attempt to seal it?
@@MrJFoster1984 They didn't mention it and I would have thought the people who fitted it would have tried grey sealant but who knows, they fitted code 3 lead so anything is possible.
The Yankees who "drywall" don't skim and they nearly all swear that paper tape is less prone to cracking, not sure if that would make a difference when skimming over it.
“You can look up the co-efficient of thermal expansion on plasterboard”...he says casually 😂
Love this series by the way...keep it up!
Best advice on the internet, well done Roger and friends !
Thanks for the response, Roger! I’ll get a mains pressure gauge on there in the next couple days, and time a couple buckets for flow, and just see what’s really going on. Then I may be back for more advice!
Love these videos Roger. Many thanks for all your hard work. My God, the amount of knowledge and experience you must have stored up in your head must be phenomenal! 😎👍🏻
You prolly dont care but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Beau Jude Instablaster ;)
@Damon Dillon i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Damon Dillon it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
@Beau Jude Happy to help :D
Really brilliant channel Roger, you're a complete natural. Thank you so much for sharing your insights!
Hello Roger, I have a question for you ….… I have a damp patch, which I started to notice last week after my visit to my Aunty Janes, a rather busty woman in her thirties, with a generous curve around her gable end, could the damp patch be due to my old lad acting up or do I need to get out more ? Yours sincerely, Mr J Butterthwait, South Hills, Devon.
Lol
Panty liners bud. Works a treat for me.
Where is John Shuttleworth when you need him?
🤣🤣🤣
Another good podcast with good advice, Roger you can still get the old scrim but its mega money compared to the fibber glass scrim, the plaster board ceiling cracks in my experience are mainly due to bad installation ie no gap between boards and the boards not staggered like stretcher bond format, and the lack of screws or nails used to support the boards, keep up the good work Roger and Robin
In regards to the damp below the window I had a similar problem, water was seeping into the living room window from above I lifted the floorboards up in the bedroom, below window above could not see anything looked outside and part of the mastic had lifted, I noticed as I was taking the old mastic off that the trim bead of upvc that was fitted on the bottom of the window to the sill (4 inches wide) I could push in on inspection I found gaps in the expanding foam they had put behind I took the interior sill off In the bedroom and it was soaking wet, water was coming down through the old stone and rubble (Stone house no cavity wall) water would only come in at certain times ie when rain was blowing directly on the window. I took old foam out put new in and put some mastic at the bottom of the foam then resealed the trim.
waiting now to see if this has worked.
As for the cracks in ceilings, I found painting and decorating on you tube who gave a great tip make some holes about 6 inches apart using screwdriver rake out rest of crack fill holes with expanding foam trim off when dry push slightly in dampen holes and crack with water down pva fill with filler.
Thanks Roger and others, Phil here. Don't think it's condensation, as there is none anywhere else in the room or the house. There is very little overhang on the gable end. As far as I know this is how this wall of the house was built. It's rendered double skin heavy weight blockwork. It's been added to in many phases over at least 150 years. I had wondered if water was getting in the top of the cavity under the roof. Will try and take a look, although not an easy place to get at!
I don't see a drip channel under the window sill.
That will cause problems.
Looks like the outside render has been built out past the drip channel which means rain water will find it's way into the drip channel and soak whatever is inside the cavity and eventually soak through into the interior wall.
Get on a ladder clamp a straight edge under the window sill and gouge out a channel with a sharp screwdriver or corner of 10mm wood chisel and paint the groove to protect the wood fibres.
Multi tool will do the job too but hey, if you've not got any tools use whatever you can, a 4 inch nail dragged along a clamped straight edge with several passes will do the same job.
Nice and tidy.
Very useful series of video.Thanks a lot for your helpful information!
Regarding insufficient water flow - good idea you mentioned to check that the street shut off valve is fully open - also check any existing mesh filters in case they are clogged with scale. This is especially so when you have hard water.
Excellent and v informative video. Think you are probably spot on with regards the damp. An invasive inspection with an endoscope might reveal lack of cavity inslation or even a bridged cavity.
Thanks. Do you think it is a question of reducing the humidity in the house with better ventilation?
@@SkillBuilder it is difficult to comment further without inspecting the property but it may well be the case that improved ventilation will help. Going further it might be worth checking if the cavity wall installation is covered by a guarantee.
The damp patch on the gable window? -
If the house was rendered, have they reduced the gable overhang of the roof?
Could the gable tiles be damaged and water is going down the cavity?
Is there a drip on the cill?
@@Rogerdodger-z7x
Yes I saw the paint but didn't know what to make of it. Something is cooking in that cavity
Rainwater can track through the cavity especially if the beads are bonded when they have been injected and that point may be a terminating point for where it tracks due to a hollow, it might be coming from the roof edges and driven into the cavity especially if the wall faces driving rain. But you’re right about eliminating internal condensing first...that might be the solution.
I would de-glaze the window and check the drainage is correct
@@markcroft3619 Good idea.
I had to replace a upvc window for a client last year with a very simillar damp problem , the original installer had drilled down through the frame to fix it!
Hi Roger , your doing great job best building u tube.and helping people in troubleshooting 👍
Thanks 👍 Douglas. We are bringing the Ask Skill Builder back soon
Hi Roger, regarding the cracking in the plasterboard ceilings, do they use paper tape on the joints in the UK? It’s standard in most other places in the world. The mesh tape is only used to reinforce small repairs/ patches here as there is no lateral strength in mesh. I agree wet framing timber is always going to cause problems. Here in NZ we are not allowed to line with plasterboard until the moisture content is less than 12%.
Thanks for all the great content
A great deal of knowledge being shared in this video with some excellent advice, with regard to the plasterboard I still have a roll of the hessian joint tape, plus could the problem be the thickness of the plasterboard being used. 👍👍👍😀
As a prehistoric plasterer I concurr with your findings Roger - Re the ceilings cracking :-)
The old Jute Scrim could be a pain in the bum at times, especially when doing Cottage-Style houses like I did with #Westbuild back in the day. You could lose a day just scrimming up. But leaving a nails-width between each plasteboard joint made sure those boards never came apart. And Yes, a three-coat finish made sure you NEVER saw those Jute-Scrim-Joints :-)
As for the plasterboard these days? It all seems TOO BRITTLE and cracks very easily. Back in the day you could get a really good bend before it would snap in two, today they need a LOT of support in transit and in fixing :-(
HI ROGER, IN RESPECTS OF THE CRACKED CEILING, OPEN THE CRACK, THEN FILL THE CRACK WITH MULTI FINISH, WHEN DRY, SEAL THE JOINT SURFACE WITH PVA, WHEN THIS IS DRY, THEN USE 50MM GAFFER TAPE OVER THE JOINT, AND THEN APPLY 1OOMM SELF ADHESIVE SCRIM TAPE OVER THE GAFFER TAPE, AND THEN PLASTER WITH MULTI FINISH WITH PVA IN THE MIX, FOR THE FIRST PLASTER COAT. (DONT AFTER TO DO THE WHOLE CEILING WITH PVA MIX) JUST WHERE THE CRACK IS, OBVIOUSLY WIDE ENOUGH TO COVER THE 100MM SCRIM TAPE. ANY MOVEMENT IN THE PLASTER BOARD SHOULD STAY BEHIND THE GAFFER TAPE UNSEEN IN THE SURFACE. IF IT RE APPEARS, THEN OTHER ISSUES MAY BE THERE ?? LIKE INADEQUATE JOIST SPAN, ABOVE LOADING, ETC. CHEERS
I saw an excellent method used in the US for decking (and maybe more serious) foundations. Drill suitable holes into the ground, 6 inch (150mm) upwards, with a post hole drill. Depth depending on your project. Drop in a cardboard tube and wedge it in plumb and tight. Cut the tops off level. You can add rebar if you like. Now fill the tubes with concrete and add J bolts at the top. You have just made properly strong reinforced concrete piles with no crane or fancy machines. The card tubes set everything level and eventually rot away.
HI Dave
I do the same thing with 6inch plastic pipe. The rebar is a good idea but the plastic tube keeps it tight and allows you to vibrate the concrets to make really dense piles.
Good knowledge, thanks for sharing.
I would also say regarding ceiling cracks that more and more people are choosing not to have artex ceilings which would cover this issue to a certain extent in the past. Concerned about what’s in my plasterboard now!!😲 🏭
Artex was used to cover over many sins so was that type of finish on render that looks like blobs/half moons across the wall.
I put down weed barrier under gravel in my back yard, had nothing but weeds for years. When I put a base down for a shed I dug up the weed barrier and haven't paved it since (6 months ago) and guess what, no weeds.
RE: Stop tap, found one under my floor after years of rubbish water pressure, it was 80% closed +
Brilliant advice!!
Think that Lead work was done by a cowboy flasher 😅, 4/5foot max and in two half's , 5/6 inch skirt then 5/6inch apron over lap by the same 👍🍀🇮🇪
I know it’s a bank holiday mate but I’m working tomorrow and I still can’t see a podcast to listen to on the way in! Is it robin slacking again?
Sorry you hit the nail on the head!! Won't be long though for another installment
Ha! Didn’t think you’d read that! I haven’t even been able to make time to wash my van this week so shouldn’t take the pee
hi roge good to see you back your big fan kev
Hi Kev.
In couple of weeks Robin and I are coming down to a merchants opening day in Horsham. We hope to see you there.
@@SkillBuilder where and when will you be in horsham? Be great to meet you guys
I havent yet seen cracks form when the ceiling board joints have been staggered (or half bond like brickwork) ... if all the boards end or start on the same joist the whole way across the ceiling (straight nic) a crack will form across it...
Correct, all joints need staggering like floor boards etc
This was the way l was taught and also today a lot of the so called plasterers dont put enough nails or screws in the boards
@@MrJFoster1984 Hi thanks for your comments l have used nails and screws for plaster board for more than 35 years the screws for the last 15 years l screw every 6 inches old school or 150 mm and never have two screws on butted boards together,
cracks and fixings plaster fail is down to poor installation the more area of board to have screws or nails the less chance of cracking, l was also taught to stagger the boards and any floating edges to have noggins,
as you said about fixing dot and dab with mechanical fixings in fire hazed areas insulated boards have them in every board regardless of where they are installed once again thanks for your comments.
Wet timber, where do you start ?
Once upon a time a timber yard would keep everything under cover so you at least had a fighting chance of getting reasonably dry timber.
Sometimes I can barely lift a 4.8m 8x2 onto the roof of my van, its ridiculous.
As far as shrinkage is concerned, I avoid using sawn timber joisting whenever possible, i'll use either OSB I joists or metal web joists.
I've seen 9x2 joists that have shrunk by 10 mm over their depth, you can get your fingers under the skirting boards ! How the hell can you finish a wet room and think its not going to leak in a years time. I just wont do it.
We have just put in a load of metal web joisting at a cost of nearly £2500 compared to about a grand for sawn timber, but I garauntee the floors wont shrink.
We always use engineered tru-stud for studwork, it's more expensive but its dry and straight. You get minimal shrinkage and minimal cracking.
If I have to use "normal" timber" , for instance if i'm extending an existing timber floor, then I get kiln dried TR26 timber from my Truss manufacturer. Its twice the price but its dry and wont shrink.
If your laying expensive flooring you simply can't have lots of movement and shrinkage.
Re the cracks in the ceilings, remember all joints should be supported on either a joist or a noggin, you shouldn't have any unsupported edges.
Nick Haley I don’t know when everyone decided they didn’t have to nog ceilings anymore, you never see it. I remember nothing out ceiling after ceiling as an apprentice until we started using 15mm boards for the ceiling but you don’t see that very often
When im making my stud walls i plasterboard the whole upstairs ceilings first and riddle them with screws 200mm apart. Then i make my stud walls a little bit tight with a double sole plate and knock them in with a sledgehammer so it elimimates a bit of shrinkage also i put a bonding coat on the ceilings first before i finish plaster them .dont get any cracks.
chill pill if ur doing a new build or extension u get the privilege of boarding the whole ceiling but it all gets a bit complicated when it’s a refurb or knock thru and your matching and patching in. Although in this day when we all have the whole worlds knowledge in our pockets there’s no excuse for not aspiring to best practices but that’s what sets us above the competition! Now we just have to explain to the customer why we’re more expensive than the other quotes!
Need to acclimatise the timber to the new conditions it will be used in where possible.The ceilings possibly needs expansion/control joints as opposed to making it rigid especially in larger areas. This can be done with the installation of purpose made trims like the ones in this link. images.app.goo.gl/U9Y99bmCwb8otUh28
Similar to control joints used in brickwork and concrete, everything in a house/building moves on a daily basis and you need to allow for this. The local manufacturer's rep should be able to point you in the right direction to their installation literature such as this for us www.gyprock.com.au/resources?filter=system installation. Search the net for Gyprock installation guide for an example and you will find a PDF document which covers a lot of info. 👍
What a brilliant channel ( subbed) everything explained simply and factually ( ideal for my limited brain ! ) love the explanations , looking at potential damp on stone built French property ?
Stay safe love from mid wales
i have burbles appearing ion the outside wall off my house during wet or winter conditions under the paint the paint is sandex
Looks more like condensation to me. Especially if there is a small cupboard/unit against the wall in winter. Ventilation in windows, decent gaps under the doors or leave them open and raise the ambient heat up a bit to keep the temperature of the walls up and of course, remove the source of the damp ie: people drying their clothes inside, showers without extractors etc..
Hi all.
As a window installer of 35 years i have seen problems like this damp patch regularly on remedial work.
1. We often see on old upvc or aluminium frames that we have replaced, where the cill was screwed right through the bottom rail of the window where water drainage is meant to sit and gradually escape via weep holes, onto either the seperate cill or via face caps. The exposed screws or screwheads allow sitting water to corrode the fixings and eventually let water penetrate into the cavity beneath.
2. Where the cill and window frame are coupled together it is frequently observed that the whole 70mm or so of END abutment is not sealed .. therefore allowing drainage water or standing water to be wind blown sideways into the masonry / plaster. Difficult to retrofix , but i have sometimes drilled deep into the bottom reveal and used a piece of tubing attached to the sealant nozzle to reach all the way back to the plasterline. or even remove a bit of plaster internally and fill the end of the cill / frame with MS polymer sealant.
3. And of course it is vital that a cill has adequate overhang and either a capillary or drip to displace water away from the wall.
This guys damp problems can be caused by a combination of all the suggestions as well as some of mine.
It is a common problem...
Properties without insulated cavity closures can also be problematic..
Great information. We need you to do a video with us telling people what to look out for.
@@SkillBuilder we are in a pause at the moment due to this corona thing. i could send something in the future though ?
Thanks
Simon
re: Reverse Osmosis (RO) system:
Just to underline what the great man said - you would only use a RO system for your drinking water (e.g. have a system under the kitchen sink supplying a drinking water faucet).
They are fantastic systems for purifying water (I use one to extract our drinking water from a private spring on a farm) but when you consider how they work (a small proportion of the water molecules from your 'dirty' water being forced via pressure to migrate through an incredibly fine plastic membrane) you can understand that compared to a simple filter cartridge system they are both very slow and 'waste' lots of water.
A RO system typically uses 6 litres of water to produce 1 litre of drinking water (the rest will be flushed away in the process)...and a typical system may take 15mins to produce that single litre - again ok for drinking water, pretty useless for anything else.
RO is probably overkill for mains water in any case; mains water is already bug-free so a simple water filter cartridge system will improve the taste and will produce 1 litre of drinking water for 1 litre of mains water.
Thanks! We’re using a small RO system now in our rented house, and I may transfer it to the kitchen sink in Ely, just for drinking water (and the kettle, of course!) and then looks like I’ll do a softening system for the rest of the house. Thanks for the expertise!
Cavities need an air space, cavity, to breathe. If its blocked as it is with the polystyrene balls, air can't circulate. Cavity could also be bridged by mortar. The external leaf of a cavity is for aesthetics and weathering with the internal being load bearing. You can get cold air which passes through a small air space such as behind the skirting board, as this meets the warm air it will condensate. See if you can hire a Flir thermal imaging camera or have an inspection done by some one with the camera, it will show you if there is mixing of air of different temperatures at this point causing condensation. If you need to bolt timbers to the house for your deck, on your perimeter/ring joist you can use washers or hard plastic packers to space the timber off the wall and allow water to pass between the timber and wall and prevent moisture build up, and subsequently prevent timber rot. A free standing structure using bearers and joists is another alternative. I like Rodgers idea for the posts/stumps. Interesting because it is similar to a pier liner in concept. Cheers 👍
I have a Flir thermal imager. I might try it on this house if it is near me. It would make a good video
Skill Builder Would be interesting to see the result mate. Cheers
Hi Roger, where do you get the plastic pipe for the deck footings. The US use specially designed cardboard form tubes but can't find them anywhere. Even plastics tube I'm struggling to find at a large enough size. I'm thinking 8inch for ground level deck.
In the UK is not hard to find plastic drain pipe but most of it is 4 inch. The 6 inch stuff is avialable from merchants and it is often posible to find stuff on dumpsters.
I always put paper tape over joints any moment stays behind tape this is better than fiberglass scrim like you do dry Lining
What's the best way to repair these fine cracks in the pasterboard ceiling?
Hire a FLIR camera or purchase the one for an iPhone, if you have an iPhone. Might be worth checking the temps of the wall, inside and out. This may help if the insulation has a void in the wall
Miles Finch You beat me to it mate 👍
Regarding the ceiling cracking, is the remedial solution just to fill the cracks and re-decorate?
Cracking video, well look forward to these. Phil Dunford problem - Your guess is as good as any ones (actually, it is better) and it looks really centred to the left of the socket, I wonder if someone chased out too much and broke through blockwork? If it were my house I would turn power off a break out to left of socket. I hate damp :( I wondered about the overhang like LEEDS8 as well. I wonder if the cavity fill was before or after the replacement glazing, that might be a clue in itself? May be the glazing install broke out any frame and the balls were sucked up by the glazing installer before he put the new frame in? ...I should probably get back to fixing the toilet :( Keep up the good work!
Bikerchris think you could be right there had this myself on a job and previous contractor had made good with bonding that acted like a sponge absorbing any damp that might be in the wall, hacked it out replastered in waterproof sand cement problem solved
I have often seen gaping holes left by window installers in the corner angles when the render is already on. Then they get filled with expanding foam and finished with some filler. Infact I have had exactly this problem on the house and water was pouring down the cavity, I discovered it when I was painting the wall inside near the reveal and the paint wouldn't dry. Depending on Roger's opinion, an option might be to have someone take the window out to investigate, which is not a difficult job to do.
Phil sounds like / reminds me of Charlie DIYte.
Thanks brilliant
Get a dehumidifier, you have for some reason a cold spot. I'll bet a pound to a penny this sorts the problem.
The damp problem will be condensation ,neuaire drimaster will solve the problem.
This guy should be the new Tommy walsh
for Any Damp problems there is a guy on You Tube called Simon Cooper HNC he puts lot of vids up easy to watch . I've not seen anyone better he gives loads of information and he gets back to you . Skill Builder would really benefit getting in touch with him or better still interview him . he's a good man. good luck
Thanks Mark
That is just the kind of collaboration we need.
Hir Roger let me know the date and ill be there
Am I the only person who is a little skeptic when it comes to using plastic on the outside of the building for let's say water-proofing or as panel? Also I'm in general a bit conserned about plastic products meant for use outside as I've seen bad composite decks, and cracked outside plastic panel.
For me the best building product will be wood and metal.
Most plastic is degraded by UV light. Even UV resistant plastic has additives or coatings that wear away with time. Truly UV safe plastic is more expensive which is probably why it's not used more
All these people with damp problems, open a bloody window
We all know that's a bird poo 🤣
It has happened where the cracks are. In three places so well done birds.
@@SkillBuilder Doesn't poo always happen where the cracks are?
I thought one of the photos looked like some one had put white sealant over the cracks in the lead and swirled it over the surface with their finger in an attempt to seal it?
@@MrJFoster1984 They didn't mention it and I would have thought the people who fitted it would have tried grey sealant but who knows, they fitted code 3 lead so anything is possible.
The Yankees who "drywall" don't skim and they nearly all swear that paper tape is less prone to cracking, not sure if that would make a difference when skimming over it.
I swear by paper tape
Anglia water.. Blimey.