[007] Anet A8 3D Printer - Review, Upgrades and Experiments
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 чер 2017
- Review, assembly and experiments with the Anet A8 sub-$200 3D Printer.
Show Notes: opentechlab.org.uk/videos:007...
GearBest: bit.ly/2zryaWK
Twitter: @OpenTechLabChan
Mastadon: @opentechlab@mstdn.io
SubscribeStar: www.subscribestar.com/opentec...
PayPal: www.paypal.me/opentechlab
Bitcoin: 18CU9LxwRuiLHy9HsuMj2vzobbW4J3QVC2 - Наука та технологія
![[008] Prototype Enclosures with FreeCAD & OpenSCAD](/img/n.gif)
While I didn't use lock nuts of any type, I did substitute the hexagonal M3 nuts for square nuts. Which slightly improves the surface area grabbed by the nut.
High current traces on the PCB I soldered thick gauge wire on the traces too.
Double the number or connectors to the heat bed, by default it causes 10 Amps to flow through single pins.
Move the Positive wire to the heat bed from the controller PCB directly to a Positive terminal on the PSU.
The bed is switched on the Negative line via a FET. So providing the bed Positive side directly from the PSU means
you get more power to the bed, less voltage drop to the controller PCB and therefore less voltage drop to the extruder heater.
Mount the PSU to the side of the printer on 5 to 10mm stand-offs. Provides better airflow to the PSU chassis and stops the PSU heating the printer frame.
I use an Adhesive Mylar sheet on the heatbed. It works perfectly at 100° C for the bed and 240°C for the nozzle for printing ABS.
It sticks on first contact and pops off very easily when it's cooled down to < 50 ish °C
so would you recommend this printer i am pretty experienced when it comes to electronics but never owned a 3D printer
It works perfectly well. But is not suitable for someone without technical, mechanical and electronics skills.
Combined with Tinkercad, Cura and OctoPrint. It's a very useful tool.
Thanks man mine is on the way , yeah i should be just fine i got the tech and mech skills & my job is in the electronics field, I have logged plenty of CAD and Solid Works hours so hopefully i will catch on fast.
Can you post a picture of how you upgraded the PCB and PSU? I'd like to see exactly, you know just to be sure!
Ni
Now this is what I expect from a review and upgrade video! The stock machine is thoroughly reviewed, updated in a what I'd say "controlled manner", close inspection of before and after upgrading... This is top notch content!
On your criticism of the bent leads of the power supply, they are called clinched leads or semi clinched leads depending on if they are touching the pads or traces. Clinching a lead is a standard practice in soldering connections that carry high current, that is a good thing. I would be more concerned with a blob of solder on a connection as it may hide a cold connection. Remember Solder connections should be clean, smooth, shiny, concave filets covering all points of contact metal to metal.
I didn't know locktight would crack plastic. Thanks! I'm about to buy one and I use it on all things I assemble that are fixed.
MY Biggest gripe with the Anet - I assembled it in probably the sum total of 1 day - of which 75% of the time was spent getting the Damned Paper packaging off the Acrylic! ARRGRGHHH....ANyway - besides that. Love my Anet A8 - prints beautifully.
The powersupply is more than likely fine. The screw connector has a screw third from the left (with the screw terminals looking at you) marked F.G. This is Frame Ground or where the Earth / Grounding conductor of your 120 / 240 VAC supply goes. The PCB to frame connection is just to provide the metal case with ground (in most uses the PSU is mounted in a metallic enclose which is grounded as well so the PSU frame is grounded through the screws to the enclosure)
Most of them look the same inside (I repair these for PLC systems).
You are correct that you need to use the shortest possible screws to mount the supply, in the manuals that come with them they usually recommend 3-5 mm long after they have been through the mounting enclosure, as the aluminium case is only usually 2mm this leaves 1-3mm of excess thread.
that was one of the most detailed reviews of the A8 I've seen so far!
Gives thumbs down, but still uses it day to day....
I love my Anet A8, it took a lot of work to get it where I have it now, but it was able to print pretty damn well right out of the box. I think this printer was made for people like me lol, we knew we were going to have to print our own upgrades; that's why a lot of us bought it to begin with. I give credit to Anet for all I know about 3d printing.
I like your videos, You have a great way of presenting very technical subjects. Looking forward to seeing more.
BIG NOTE: Loctite will attack the plastic (Acrylic) frame parts of the printer causing them to crack later. If you are that concerned about nuts coming loose I suggest you use locknuts with built in nylock.
I just wanted to thank you for this video and all the links to the improvement/upgrades in your show notes. I just finished my A8 build and I am in the process of making a few of the upgrade parts. Your videos and links have been amazingly helpful. So thank you. (if I had some spare $ I would send you some through patron...but if I have extra cash, I would not be buying such a cheap 3D printer). CHEERS!
Thank you so much for this video. I just got one of these for Christmas from my wife and I am a complete noob. Regarding your cracking problem: A special thanks for that bit about the Locktite. I went to our local Home Depot to buy some star lock washers when I realized that there would be some vibration that might loosen the connections. I WAS going to double up on the washers by using Locktite, but never had the chance (it's still in assembly and I'm a bit lackadaisical in putting stuff together - I'm retired :-) ). I'm glad I watched your video before I did. Thanks again.
I wound my screws in as tight as I could, when building my Anet A8 - this was months ago and nothing has cracked. Incidentally, none of the screws have loosened either.
You, my friend, appear to have the light touch and finesse of a bull rhino :P
+Spreadie yeah I didnt use excessive torque so I think the chemically induced cracking is the most likely explanation
I used 'adequate' force to secure the screws. So far no cracking and only minimal loosening.
I am looking to get one of the aluminium frames for the A8 on ebay though, as its been quite a good printer and I'd like to keep using it for a while. Prints using good filament have been outstanding, especially considering the price.
I bought a sheet of BulidTak for the bed, best upgrade I made lol
@@OpenTechLab That's your story and your stickin' to it! ;-)
Usually stringing (from your benchy) is a sign of more retraction needed. turn up the retract distance by .5 mm and that should probably do it.
The worst in assembling this thing was peeling the paper from the acryl :
Yup, the first time took me like 5 hours and HALF was peeling the acrylic
oh man they didn't do that step in the damn video! glad i hadn't fully built it when i had to take it back apart to peel it all off.
@@nattankress i quit this job after about 3 minutes, and threw the acrylic parts in water for an hour or two. 10 minute job after that. lazy method ftw!
Peel off with gaffer tape. No fiddly picking the film off
Upgrade tip: If you pick a somewhat bigger and thicker sheet of glas that overlaps the heat bed, there's no real issue in printing up to 250x250 in X and Y direction on the A8. Only the locking latch of the heat bed's connector required grinding a little dent into the lower side of the glass, which is bog standard window glass, no borosilicate. Be careful to not get pretensioned glass, that will shatter on the first scratch, though. Just make sure the glass isn't too thin, some 5 to 6mm will do very well. The sheet of 250x250x5 I got cost 3 quid at my local glazier's. Works a treat. To be on the safe side, preheat the heat bed before the print fore maybe 5 minutes, and bob's your auntie. I check it with my infrared thermometer. Once the glass surface has the set temperature, I start the print. I only used it with PLA so far, but with it, I had no issue whatsoever.
In the 1980s I had a sticky rubix cube. Sprayed it inside with WD40. Nice a smooth until a short while later it self destructed in my hand. That's my first lesson on chemical attack on plastics. Glues either stick,. Ake plastic slimy or destroy it. Best learn what plastic your gluing or like me glue it and pray.
Great informative video. I have purchased an ant 8 and am looking forward to assembling it and learning all about it as I go. I will be using your video as a reference guide as I go. Thanks for the great video.
This is useful to me, I'm going to setup one in a few days. I like the part about the wiring will be something I check.
Those upgrades look soooooooo cool!! Great job
Well let me tell you, I did not see your video, nor know about NOT using Blue Loctite until last night. However the night before i also put together my Anet A8 AFTER having my wife bring me home a tube of the blue death:). I did not drop a blob on. Infact i put it on with a toothpick. Got the frame all done and when i got up the next morning it was cracked everywhere! And I also read in a forum that i should use it while putting it together.
Of course we know EVERYTHING on the web is correct. And because of your video i am ordering the same frame to continue on with this fun? project.
This is the dark time. Better times are ahead. Stay strong!
I only use self-locking nuts at the top, for the z axis rods caps...otherwise, those nuts have the habit of disappearing into oblivion...
FYI if you're worried about it not have a nylon lock nuts all you need is a little piece of nylon fishing string through the regular nut and you have yourself a locking nut
Thanks! I considered using the loctite. You have great info in that video :)
Very useful and instructive...Thank you so much.
Your amazing, and also my A8 3D Printer came with a finished wood frame.
Thanks for the great video. I’m thinking of purchasing this model ANET printer vs building my own and I pretty much use locktight on everything. Glad I watched your video first! Also, thanks for using tweezers to model the nylon lock nuts. Too many UA-camrs settle for their fat fingers to showcase miniature parts and its extremely distracting. I think its a fantastic idea to inspect your prints under the video scope. Top Notch my friend.
This was excellent. Thank you.
thanx for the vid
i am a huge fan of locktide and i have used it for over 25 years and i have never known this about acrylic and locktide geus i learned somthing watching this vid thanx for the lesson O.T.L
Great video. Only if every video on UA-cam was this detailed
I will buy one for the learning experience of upgrading and getting it running smoothly alone
fantastic , great review
I like your review, I have a similar one, CTC DIY I3 PRO, i knew nothing about 3D printing before buying it, and I must say that now I have learned a lot!, with all the upgrades I had a lot of fun! it was a good introduction to this world... I agree with you about the safety, the power supply specially is a big concern (I had not problems with the board whatsoever...), and like you said you have to have some knowledge to notice these problems (or to have them on your mind, I mean if you are a teen then you simply dont think to much about it and you just building the thing) or simply follow the recomendations you find online... thanks for the video!
One of the main reasons for the solder cracking is the manufacturer using unleaded solder. Reflowing the joins as you did with good quality leaded solder will resolve the problem.
I purchased this very same printer about the same time as you, however this one is NOT labeled Anet A8 (same price) and came with no instructions or videos. I was able to find the Anet A8 online and realized that it had all of the same components, and thus used their instructions and videos to build my unit. Mine even came in the same styrofoam boxes like yours.
As far as your experience with using the Loctite, it is unfortunate that your machine disintegrated. The Loctite does not actully have to contact the acrylic because it off-gases and affects the acrylic in proximity. Sorry that you had that experience, but a lesson learned, hopefully.
The acrylic is cut in bulk with a CNC laser, which makes the price so cheap. The control board and power supply, as you say, is not the top of the line quality either. With that said, for the price, this is a wonderful 3d printer and I would definitely give it a thumbs up.
In comparison, I have a smaller printer that cost over twice as much that has a metal frame and only does marginally better prints. This is the Einstein S from Shining 3d and this machine has its' own pseudo g-code renderer software that you cannot modify and does not accept standard g-code. For ease of use, however, I was printing within 5 minutes of pulling this one out of the box. Unfortunately, it is a PLA only printer.
I noticed that you used PLA for all of your builds, which does not require a heated bed. I would like to ask if you made any of the parts from ABS or one of the other many materials that this printer is capable of using? Also, since you have had more time to evaluate this machine, are the tracks for the cabling really necessary, mine works fine as assembled from the videos. Those tracks look cool though.
Great channel amazing video. Great detail. Liked & subscribed.
I've been printing NYLON with mine and I love it
Thanks for this video mate... It helped me decide against this since I have no electric experience
what a greats improvements, congrats
Thats amazing! Never knew that loctite destroyed plastic like that.. good to know!
Got the same printer. Glad you mentioned the power supply and controller (fire hazards). I ended up using the Orange Pi Zero with Repetier Host.
wait, you used the orange pi zero with repetier host to replace the power supply and controller ?
I think one can not expect a well engineered printer of good quality for a prize like the cheap Chinese printers. If one wants quality without tinkering one should buy a Prusa.
That being said I don't have the money for that and tinkering is what I want to do. I started building a 3D printer from scratch with poorly cut wood. Then I printed parts and built a cloned Prusa Mk2. Now I'm preparing to build an entirely new printer with linear extrusions and linear rails and all the bells and whistles. But that will not be the end!
I find this continuously process of upgrading fascinating and would love to see what you did with your A8 since this video was uploaded.
Thank you for your video :)
I never used Loctitie or lock nuts and my A6 printer, which is very similar does not come loose. Every now and again I check the screw torques and all looks OK.
I wouldn't say the a8 has any infamy, it is generally seen as the best price to performance printer
+Noah Mcelwey I notice a lot of folks on Reddit getting frustrated with the flow of questions about how to fix A8 design flaws. I can understand that.
OpenTechLab yeah, I don't quite understand why people complain about little things when the printer is as cheap as it is, I think people just like to complain.
Paid $140 for mine. ebay special
When you consider the now infamous story of the guy catching his A8 JUST as it was engulfed in flames AND the electrical safety problems pointed out here, I'd say your take on infamy is backwards. I purchased the A8 ($124) after reading the horror stories and knowing that I'd have to do mods and upgrades. FYI... I bought it to print the "Mostly Printed CNC" router because my little Monoprice Mini Delta wouldn't print the larger parts. After I'm finished using it for that purpose I'll be completely rebuilding with an AM8 frame, new PSU... Auto bed leveling... this, that and everything else.
I use PVA glue as adhesive for the bed because I can use it immediately and is way cheaper than hairspray.
spray on?
Nice vid and tips. If you are still skipping steps then you could try upping the voltage on the stepper slightly by turning the trimpot on the mainboard. Just remember, if they are anything like RAMPS steppers, they are only rated for about 1amp without cooling and that whatever voltage you read between the centre of the pot and ground is about half the amps going through it I think.. Loving the Octoprint. Gonna try that. You might want to look into a mosfet and upgrading the heated bed cables to 12AWG with an in-line 15a fuse. That will make it safer and help the bed heat better. I did a vid on fusing the A8 and adding the mosfte a while back but there are loads of vids about it. You caught that bad solder join just in time. Those green connectors are knock-offs and not really rated for the hotbed amps. It may also be an idea to secure the hotend thermistor in place with a printed bracket. Personally, I don't go out for long and leave it running... Not just the A8, that goes for any 3d printer. Good luck
With printing onto a glass bed, I've had 100% success (five prints so far) without having to use any glue or hairspray, although this may just be beginner's luck (and this was a Creality Ender 3 clone, and I was using a brim on the print to help adhesion, so YMMV). P.S Thanks for a comprehensive review, and all the tips - I've just ordered an A8 clone, just for the sake of a challenge.
I’m glad I finished watching because otherwise I’d have screwed up my printer too with the threadlocker
good points about electrical safety, the 1st things I did when assembling this kit was isolate the hot bed springs as I didnt like the idea of the springs against the hotbed, then fit automotive fuses to the hotend & hotbed, and fit a mosfet (when it arrived) for the bed, why does everyone else seem to fit the y axis cable chain to the left? its right under the hotend when its homed and looks like it could bump the hotend - I built my own chain mounts from scratch to suit some lightwieght but narrow nylon 7x7 chain I had laying around - but I mounted mine on the opposite side - works well - and its without plastic dripping into it
Loved the video and have 2 questions. How did you determine which posts the bed red & black wires connect to? The board is not labeled + or - for the bed. I have mine the opposite of the way you have it to match with the power + and - and have no issues after 2 test prints. Also my kit did not include a 2nd fan nor did the directions show one installed. Any concerns with this? Thanks again for the great tips!
Very nice review and build. I am looking at 3D printers and deciding on a make and model, but after watching your video, I am wondering if it would not be better to spend more money upfront and get a better printer than the cheaper one and have to do all the additions and modifications. If I had the time and expertise, I think I would just design my own and built it, but that would take much longer than I have time for. Thanks for putting the video together.
Thank you! I got this printer over the summer, and I’ve been running it in a wooden cabinet, now that I know about the fire hazard I can fix that. Also, what temperature do you run the hotbed and nozzle on? And what speed do you print at?
Awesome video dude! I am building my first ever 3D printer, the anet A8 and while it has all these issues; I am using them to force myself into learning how it all works so when I buy an Ultimaker or something nice I will know whats with it when it goes wrong. Great video, very helpful.
So how did it go? Did you upgrade since then to something like a voron or maybe an ender or prusa? Or did you stick with it?
@@LuLeBe I was into printing on an off with a previous job but I just got an Ender 3 v2 and loving it!
@@bigal1122 i have the v2 as well as my main printer, did some modifications (bltouch, hero me fan upgrade, cht nozzle, bi-metal heat brake and some firmware tweaks like linear advance) for about $100 in total and it prints nicely with 0.4mm layers, 0.8mm line width at over 100mm/s speed, such a good base that printer. I recommend trying some of those out of you also want to cut print times from 30 to 8hrs, for example.
Yikes, um, never heard of this mod before this video. I think I'm going to stay away from Locktite like the plague. 3D printing some braces seem a lot safer to me since most of the wobble is from torque rather than any vertical ply of the screws. I enjoyed seeing you kept trying to solve the problem. Interesting adventure.
And do you think you can modify the electronics to maybe adjust the temperature of the heating tip better? Or improve the fan by somehow blowing cooler air with a peltier element....
I really like the way that you routed the extruder cables using the chain cable guide. Do you happen to have any closeup photos of how you attached the chain cable to the printer ?
I'm a bit late to this, but I've only had mine a couple of weeks. As of late 2018 the A8 is *still* the best value 3d printer available. It's the cheapest and most fun way to get into 3d printing. Yes you will have problems to solve, but that just means you will learn a lot more from doing it. The A8 is not for people who want to be spoon fed, those that just want a consumer item that works even though they don't understand it, or in a commercial environment where the printer needs to be highly productive right from unboxing. It IS for those who want to enjoy a more hands-on approach and want to learn, and all for very little money too.
When you print out the relevant cable chain end pieces it's very obvious how they fit - on existing hardware and bolts. Also photos from the designers are a little useful. I got designs for both my x and y cable chains from thingiverse. It's a great looking upgrade and saves your cables. You do have to rotate the heat bed so the connector is on the left for the y cable chain, but that's a simple modification.
The most important upgrades though, are probably the supports or stiffeners for the uprights, and an x belt tensioner. I suspected that the little T support blocks are insufficient and this video seems to prove that. I printed a full bridge support that cut down on the wobble harmonics of the frame by a huge amount. I've put off doing the x-belt tensioner but as the belt seems to have stretched a little (even though it's got a steel core) it's starting to affect print quality, so that's my next project. I just hope I left enough belt for it to work without buying new belt.
@@Chrisamic Yep, get some good quay belt and replace the crappy ones.
Get the y belt path perpendicular and print my y belt tensioner.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3429668
I've replaced the extruder, hot end and upgraded PSU to 24 volts running a Duet board.
The basics are okay and it's a great learning experience.
The greatest hazard is the connection to the heated bed. It's bv boarding on illegal for domestic use.
i have 2 of those printer never had any structure break to keep the nut to lousen i use a small drop of silicone on the outside tread
if your ambitious you can use 3 mm acrylic sheet instead of but Don't use it with anything but PLA the hotter plastics weld to the acrylic sheet and you will NEVER get it off. Best Idea is the PTFE build sticker works for all prints and you will need to replace it after 2000 prints because it gets smooth and the bed adhesion is too high.. but it is your best option for no messy glue stick or hair spray and no dangerous glass plate. the Acrylic sheet in the cheapest and you can take it off and pop off the print.
Every single article or conversation I've seen in the last couple days about this 3D Printer says to install a mosfet. I ordered one of these printers off eBay, with the auto leveling sensor included, for about 150 bucks. I'm buying some upgrades too. I spend about 60 dollars on the common upgrades I've seen suggested, as well as two mosfets, one for the bed, and one for the extruder.
What fets did you buy
There's a better solution to the cracked solder traces. I used to repair equipment that was mounted on industrial conveyors. Cracked traces on terminal strips was a common problem for some installations where vibration was a major factor. To repair, I would remove most but not all of the solder from the joint then make several loose wraps of solid 28 AWG wire and finally reflow solder onto the joint. The wire gives added strength and prevents future cracks. I never had to repair one of our boards after applying this fix.
The hairspray works on the aluminium bed the same as the glass so you could have saved some money
I agree with what you said how so many sub-quality parts come with the cheap kits & need upgrading. I am new; I don't have the smarts. Would you create a list w/sources so we could find the generic kit parts individually and recommendations for better components (like the 30 amp psu) so can build a great/better prt without a dozen parts that don't get used?
I admit I didn't know about Locktite destroying plastics. But you did put a whole lot more than was needed! Ideally the locktite should be onle inside the threads of the nut. That way there would be no contact with the acrylic.
Hey Nick - great review. Are you in the UK & if so, how long was the shipping on the new frame?
Also, you mentioned other sub $200 printers that seem better designed. Do you have any recommendations?
Keep up the good work & I've subbed as I'm new to 3D printing and you seem to already have a great deal of knowledge.
Thank you! for the video I discover it when searching for a solution for my problem: My Display stays blue nothing is showed! Can you please advice or do you think I did something wrong? how can I solve this problem?
Great video. Similar to my experience with CTC ebay machine. The stuff about hairspray was new to me. I see your hairspray has Acrylates - which sounds like the stuff in fried food that is bad for you (acrylamide) - mine (hem hem) does not.
I don't put anything on the hotbed. No glass. No glue. No tape. I just print right on the aluminum, and haven't has any problems. I used blue tape a few times, but even if I get it down without overlap the nozzle would occasionally peel a bit up, and cause issues. I went to art school. I'm pretty good with tape.
This is a very good video. I have a question. Can Cura be used to update the firmware on the Anet A8?
you sir,, are out of your mind,,,,
nice video ...... love your videos
19:42 I nearly cried laughing dalm you just printed like a whole printers worth of upgrades 😂
This is hilarious! Buy a super-cheap printer and then print a whole bunch of upgrades to make it behave! Amazing, really an accomplishment, and funny at the same time!
With a video like this, it sounds possible to turn the printer into a really good one, but it is quite a bit of work to put in. Basically, you buy the printer with the task of make it turning itself into a better printer! :)
I've been looking for a good printer to buy,... and I think I should this Anet A8, easy to build and there are extensive mods for it and parts.
GREAT review. Which would you go for for your first printer, this one or the Tevo Tarantula Prusa I3 3D Printer?
+Steve Laminack I can't recommend this printer. I can't speak to the alternatives though. Metal frame printers are much better but more expensive. The Creality CR-10 looks good.
Ok well i got the replacement frame and low and behold for me atleast there were MANY mods i had to do to get it together. Alot of holes were not there,I had to make a few brackets myself, Drill my own holes to mount the power supply and the motherboard. Had to find a hardware store that had a supply of small screws nuts and such. My LAST problem am am asking for help from you are anyone who can help. the Z axis switch the new frame kit did not come with anyway to attach it, So what i need is to know at what height the roller needs to be from the ground/table to where the roller clicks off/on. and second what comes in contact with the roller? I believe with this information i can finish this long drawn out project:)
Thank you
Ron
Did you oil the guiding rods and belts and everything? Or Teflon spray it?
So what would be a better printer? Would the Tevo Tarantula or the Anet E2 or Creality Ender-3 be any better???
Any Free upgrade STL Files you used in Orange Avaulable? Especially the Orange PrintHead Chain?
I purchased the same kit and i am having problems with the z axiz. It will move up and down manually but does not go up when printing, which causes the nozzle to stick to the first layer and drag it around. How can i fix this issue?
mine is at 3 days and 20 hours of printing currently but ive printed 756 meter what speed do you print at ? that it has been printing for so mutch longer
I can see that it is nice for some to know that they can monitor and control their printers remotely. But I still haven't found a scenario where I would need something printed so badly when I am out that I could be bothered to set up all that stuff. For me (!) it is perfectly sufficient to do it locally.
But then, this is just me. Maybe I am a just getting old? But so far it hasn't caused me any problems.
Anyway, great video! :)
But you need to have remote camera view to watch it print! And your house burn!
lol
a small spring on both sides of the belt with a paper clip bent to hold a stop point on z
Mine came with a wood frame, I have a pile of unused screws left over, and I'm stuck at leveling the bed. I need help!
Locktight weakens acrylic making it very brittle. I started using it on mine until I seen on the bottle it said not to use on plastics so I looked it up and sure enough they say not to use on acrylic. .
Super and make a video review of your printer settings and programs that are printing.
at 32:20 on the soldering side of power supply PCB it seems to me you have a dripping of soldering around C7
I have to ask. With all the upgrades using all that filament would it have been cheaper to buy a more superior machine that you did not have to upgrade ? granted not as much fun though
awesome vid, thanks! But please use more light next time!
DAMN, THAT INTRO MUSIC👌🖒💖
Do you have any more detailed videos on flashing the firmware & adding octoprint? Your really good at teaching & explaining things. Definitely need to keep up the great content. Maybe a video on installing PiHole on a Raspberry Pi. Or a nas, weather station on a pico. Pi production is up & I’ve picked up 2 pi zero’s 8 pico’s 4 Pi 4’s (8gb), Pi 4 (4gb) and a Pi 3 A+. I already had a Pi 2 & Pi 3b+ so I’m definitely ready for some projects!
i use glass but i put white wood glue watered down on my glass and it workes great
Although is tempting to rest the Z-couplers low on the steppers, and it *looks* good this way ... they are meant to ride really high on the stepper's shaft, so that the springy portion of the coupler lives in an empty space between the worm and shaft. The worm should actually reach through the holes on top.
Sadly, have no idea what is causing your X skipping problem. That is intolerable.
Does your fan accelerate when you press the DOWN button? Maybe just me. It disappeared after upgrading to Skynet/Marlin. Also, you can adjust your X-accel values in Marlin to help with the vibrations caused by the super-massive extruder carriage.
Am glad to see I am not the only sole to crack the acrylic! That was a really poor choice of material by Anet.
100% you. I haven't seen ANYONE do that and I'm a MOD on the facebook groups.
The Boat test came out better than the one i printed With my school 600 dollar 3D printer
hey can you help me out
When i start the print he says printing but after a short time he starts again preheat pla (I had already done it before starting printing) and after its heated he does nothing
Great video,Can you or Anyone tell me if i can Spray Paint the Plastic PLA with Acrylic Paint or not? Many thanks
What width is that cable chain? If you don’t mind me asking. Thanks in advance.
You've used way more loctite than necessary too. A small blob on the side of the thread is plenty, it should not be overflowing.
@OpenTechLab Curious...Not wanting to criticize...but...
You mentioned you just hot glue'd the sensor to some scrap pieces of acryllic and to the frame...?? Ummm - But pretty sure the instructions said that was what those two bits of Acrylic were for, and not sure why you used the glue, because it should have had the m2 self tappers that fit through the holes in the switch. Also on my Acryllic version the side where this mounts is slightly higher and has slots to allow movement up and down to adjust.
FYI on locktite and screws - obsessive yes...I just pulled the whole thing out, assembled it with provided M3s did it up a reasonable amount of torque and a few months later...still printing without any frame movement.
One more thing...Your Y axis motors are mounted 180 degrees back to front, the Plugs should be at the back...Sorry that's just me being a fastidious engineer :)
Still enjoyed the review - keep up the good work.
Think you missed the part where its not the original frame but a composite wood fiber board which did not have mounting holes
Is there a web site for all these great upgrades if not where can i find them THANK YOU you video was and is great .
Check out the show notes. All the upgrades are listed there. There are many others on thingiverse.
Dude the line on the X is called Z banding, As it went up it stuck NOT the X. Also grease the rods. The Base issue is you had it to high off the bed. Nothing with sticking.
try a reverse ssh connection (-R flag) to setup from the orange pi to deal with dynamic IP?
That's what I have! See octoprint-tunnel.service in the show notes!