How to Screen Print Plastisol Heat Transfers Step by Step - Anatol Titan M ASE Vlog
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- In this Video, I'll walk you through how to Screen Print Plastisol Heat Transfers Step by Step on Anatol Titan M ASE Vlog
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This uncle 1 is great, it inspires us even more to work. warm greetings & healthy greetings. From Indonesia
Mikey. Hey man I’m the guy that used to comment on you smacking when you would teach tutorials. I wanna apologize to you I watched a couple of your videos and you turned out to be a really great guy. Not only that you’re inspiring me more than more to keep going forward I’m on the same exact road you’re on with everything. Besides the automatic. I do have a home where I have no overhead because below me is my shop. It’s a big huge building and I think every silk screener needs to do this where you can live above and below is your shop. Because of you I decided to purchase this. Ty for inspiring me. Also I had a record label and we didn’t make any money if anything we were breaking our own bank by spoiling these bands with Merch like you wouldn’t believe. That being said we close that up because we decided we were getting more money by just having a shop supplying people. So we ventured onto having our own shop it’s amazing. Thank you Mike
Btw I’m from Granbury Texas. Fellow Texan. Cheers
No worries! I've got brothers and we bust each other's balls. Glad the videos have been helpful. I know all too well about the music industry. These days, you have to have business plan or you'll do nothing but toss money into it with no return. The term "making it" is relative. Plenty of people make a living with their music, but these days it's from mostly from merch since there really aren't any physical sales to be made from music. I've been a semi pro musician since '06. Made a decent side income gigging, but even that's changed post covid. Any how, sounds like you're on the right track. Plenty of money to be made with printing shirts. Howdy from Houston!
Screen printing plastisol heat transfers isn't too difficult. Set it up like a traditional screen print, but mirrored, print your colors first, flash, then print your white base. Apply your adhesion powder and semi cure the ink around 260º-270º. Heat press at around 360º for 10-15 seconds to make sure it's completely cured all the way through.
i worked at a factory that did lots of transfers... we would do the last layer with clear base threw a 160 mesh. and the powder would be put onto the clear. so we could run the press full on with out having to go around twice.
@@helmet1892 by any chance do you know where to get the powder and the percentage to add, and I you dont mind can I ask you when you print more than 2 colors how you prevent the paper don't shrink between the flashes and with cost the out registration, thanks in advance
Do you Flash after each color?
Cool to see no no vacuum pallet! Hope all is well!!!! 🙏🏽
Thanks! Can't complain. Hanging in there.
i see you from morocco brother
thank you for all.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Screen printed transfers. Interesting. It doesn't look like the regular screen printed shirt with plastisol ink. It still has that shine that DTF prints have from the video. Do you prefer the regular screen printing process or unto transfers?
Embrace the Transfer!
In my shop I don't direct screen print any bleeves or bags any more - we do them all via transfer. It is easier and more cost effective.
You can do 1 sheet with multiple of the same design - don't need to muck around changing plynths and dealing with the garment dragging everywhere.
A couple of tips for you:
1- Get some 'textured' teflon sheets - use these to press the transfer once you remove the paper - it will give it more of a matt look and a texture that makes it look like it is screenprinted rather than the glossy finish from your standard teflon.
2 - Always preshrink your paper thru the dryer - ALWAYS!
3 - Think about your film layup when you do your seps - you can use a clear as the last coat with a bleed to act as the agent for your adhesive powder - or match the garment colour ie: if your doing black garments use a black as the background.
They are way mre useful than some people give credit for.
I hear that! These transfers were actually for something similar. Our buddy needed to be able to just do a couple shirts here and there for this company as they keep hiring people. Fire up the heat press, bam, done.
That is good info to know. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I wish you would of said what temp and how long you were flashing each color
Great video! What platen glue do you use? I have tried multiply color on sportsman, but got problem to make the transfer stick to the platens, and the powder sticks everywhere on the backside because of the glue. I also tried flash between color without success
Que bom te ver novamente sucesso sempre abraços fica com Deus 🙏
When I do multiple color transfers that requires any flashing, I run the paper through the dryer to shrink it before printing. This could be why your white was poking out.
Also I blow off the excess powder before it goes through the dryer.
Nice tips. We had actually test printed a t-shirt to make sure this wasn't the issue. Definitely was the screen. I initially was blowing the powered off with an air hose, but Wayne, our client, was fine with them as is. Not much, if any adhesion powder left behind.
Guess I should have specified the blowing it off. I flick the back of the transfer several times with my finger and then just give it a quick puff
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473Do you flash after each color?
excellent video! good to see you in good spirit. question... so when it comes to multiple color plastison heat transfer printing you don't need a white under based for the image to press on dark shirts?
Thanks! I would recommend a white base. We were just having issues with the screen having got too hot sitting in the sun post curing and drying. We didn't have much time to get this out the door, so this was our solution.
Hey mikey I have a question this might be odd but when I start printing for some reason when I do my first pass and I look at my screen there is still ink like it is hazey and doesn't pass by the screen I don't know if it is because I am not putting enough force or the squeegee I use
Could be not enough force, the squeegee durometer, and not enough ink in the screen. Off contact could be it as well.
Another thought, is it the emulsion? Do you see a haze in the stencil prior to set up? Sometimes my team doesn't wash out the stencil properly after exposure.
or what Mikey said..
Mike my friend . what kind of ink u use for cartón . paperboard ahm. For pizza u know . sorry my english . i think u have a video . bit i lost it . or send me the Link pls
Thank u mike
You could use water based, in which you'll have to let it air dry.
Muchas gracias bacano
still waiting for an experienced screen printer to show how to do this with water-based ink. thats the one area of screen printing that is not existent.
That’s because you need a gas drier. They’re expensive. Water base inks need to dwell for 1.5-2 minutes. You’ll need a forced air flash as well. You’re taking a whole other ball field that’s not really shared because it’s pretty competitive. Take what you’ve learn on UA-cam. Invest in costly equipment. You won’t her water based done with what we can her away with plastisol.
I’ve reached out to Waterbased companies about ink. They’ll laugh if you don’t have a 20ft drier for their inks.
It's easier, you don't have to cure after each colour, it's enought to dry in air half hour, the registration will be better because you don't use heat that shrinking the paper. And a caroussel is for direct printing, not for transfers.