Mine doesn't work, it just makes a pop when I plug the battery. The thing is that I'm using normal potentiometers (still 500k) instead of those blue ones so I had to re-arrange the jumper cables that connect the pots to the positive terminal of the breadboard
That can be frustrating when learning electronics; I have often been there. The key is good troubleshooting, this becomes second nature eventually. Let's see if we can help you to get it working. The different type of potentiometers does not matter, even the value doesn't matter too much in this circuit and it sounds like you have it wired correctly, so it is unlikely to be that. First, check the orientation of each 555 IC, the dot shows where pin 1 is located. Some chips do not have this but still have a little semi-circular cutout showing the top (pins 1 and 8 in this case). Do you have a multimeter? If so, pins 4 (bottom, left pin) and 8 (top, right pin) on each 555 should be at the battery voltage (9v in my case). Pin 1 (top, left) should be at 0v (ground in this circuit). Pin 5 (bottom, right) should not be connected to anything. In both cases, pin 6 is going through a capacitor (10nF for U1 and 100nf for U2) to ground (Battery negative) Other than sharing the battery power rails, the only link between U1 and U2 is one connection from U1 pin 3 (Output) to U2 pin 2 (Trigger). Have a look at the schematic and continue to methodically check each connection, like I have started doing here. It's likely to be one wire or connection, it usually is. Come back to me if it's still not working, I can quickly build it and let you know what voltages you should be seeing on each pin.
@@MusicTechknowledgy Nice advice, thank you. I'll try to get a multimeter and check every connection to make sure they're all well seated. I'm a newbie, this is literally my very first breadboard project ever. By the way, I forgot to mention that I'm using a medium size breadboard (30 rows), is that an obstacle? My pots take more space since the pin spacing is wider
@@Apo458 Awesome. I remember the initial struggle well and I'm here to help you get it up and running. It's such a great feeling when it works, especially when starting out. With the breadboard, I tend to use the bigger one for teaching, in these videos, as it's easier to see on camera. The 30 rows should be perfect for learning and shouldn't be an obstacle until you get to the stage where you want to build more complex circuits. At that stage, I would grab another, and/or upgrade.
@@MusicTechknowledgy Nice, thank you. I think I have found the issue. I used one of the 555s in astable mode to output a soundwave, same result. Swapped the 555 and same result. I noticed it was strange because when I plug in the 9v battery I get clicks and pops until it is fully connected, it is then when no sound comes from the speaker. Still don't have a multimeter, but my guess is that the battery is causing the issue. I have a 500 mAh rechargeable battery, a cheap one, works fine to power my acoustic guitar pickup and my mini-Marshall amp, but that's it
@@Apo458 Good troubleshooting, trying things out and swapping the chip. From experience, I'd say it's unlikely to be the battery, but stranger things have happened. 555's work with a Supply Voltage (Vcc) from about 4.5v to 15v usually. If you look at the top of your chips they'll say something like NE555N, if you do a search, like this "NE555N Datasheet" only replace the NE555N with what it says on your, you should find a datasheet with the specific timers specs. Vcc is what to look for. When you get a multimeter you'll be able to measure the battery voltage too.
Question for you, what wattage speaker are you using? Is it an 8 ohm speaker?
Yes, that's right, just a standard 2-inch, 8 ohms, 500mW speaker.
Mine doesn't work, it just makes a pop when I plug the battery. The thing is that I'm using normal potentiometers (still 500k) instead of those blue ones so I had to re-arrange the jumper cables that connect the pots to the positive terminal of the breadboard
That can be frustrating when learning electronics; I have often been there. The key is good troubleshooting, this becomes second nature eventually. Let's see if we can help you to get it working.
The different type of potentiometers does not matter, even the value doesn't matter too much in this circuit and it sounds like you have it wired correctly, so it is unlikely to be that.
First, check the orientation of each 555 IC, the dot shows where pin 1 is located. Some chips do not have this but still have a little semi-circular cutout showing the top (pins 1 and 8 in this case).
Do you have a multimeter? If so, pins 4 (bottom, left pin) and 8 (top, right pin) on each 555 should be at the battery voltage (9v in my case). Pin 1 (top, left) should be at 0v (ground in this circuit).
Pin 5 (bottom, right) should not be connected to anything.
In both cases, pin 6 is going through a capacitor (10nF for U1 and 100nf for U2) to ground (Battery negative)
Other than sharing the battery power rails, the only link between U1 and U2 is one connection from U1 pin 3 (Output) to U2 pin 2 (Trigger).
Have a look at the schematic and continue to methodically check each connection, like I have started doing here. It's likely to be one wire or connection, it usually is.
Come back to me if it's still not working, I can quickly build it and let you know what voltages you should be seeing on each pin.
@@MusicTechknowledgy Nice advice, thank you. I'll try to get a multimeter and check every connection to make sure they're all well seated.
I'm a newbie, this is literally my very first breadboard project ever.
By the way, I forgot to mention that I'm using a medium size breadboard (30 rows), is that an obstacle? My pots take more space since the pin spacing is wider
@@Apo458 Awesome. I remember the initial struggle well and I'm here to help you get it up and running. It's such a great feeling when it works, especially when starting out.
With the breadboard, I tend to use the bigger one for teaching, in these videos, as it's easier to see on camera.
The 30 rows should be perfect for learning and shouldn't be an obstacle until you get to the stage where you want to build more complex circuits. At that stage, I would grab another, and/or upgrade.
@@MusicTechknowledgy Nice, thank you.
I think I have found the issue. I used one of the 555s in astable mode to output a soundwave, same result. Swapped the 555 and same result.
I noticed it was strange because when I plug in the 9v battery I get clicks and pops until it is fully connected, it is then when no sound comes from the speaker. Still don't have a multimeter, but my guess is that the battery is causing the issue.
I have a 500 mAh rechargeable battery, a cheap one, works fine to power my acoustic guitar pickup and my mini-Marshall amp, but that's it
@@Apo458 Good troubleshooting, trying things out and swapping the chip. From experience, I'd say it's unlikely to be the battery, but stranger things have happened. 555's work with a Supply Voltage (Vcc) from about 4.5v to 15v usually. If you look at the top of your chips they'll say something like NE555N, if you do a search, like this "NE555N Datasheet" only replace the NE555N with what it says on your, you should find a datasheet with the specific timers specs. Vcc is what to look for. When you get a multimeter you'll be able to measure the battery voltage too.
heck ya, thanks!