The most boring part of restoring a car…
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2023
- Today we continue with the most tedious part of the restoration… metal work…metal work and more metal work. So enjoy (if you can) watching me pull dents and sand metal. It’s a slow process but it will be worth it in the end!
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Those cross hatch marks are from filing. It was a technique to show low spots. True, hand made cars are not perfect ct, and manufacturers often used lead to smooth panels. Indeed many mass manufacturers did the same before plastic fillers were developed. Leading is still used today. A useful tool for small depressions is a bulls eye pick. See Trev's log for handy tips on metal working
It's very enjoyable watching you putting so much effort into the restoration of these classic cars.
I was a BT telephone engineer in the eairly 90s. based in Bedford. I was
lucky to spent a week or two working on the telephone system at the Aston martin factory in Newport Pagnell. It was facinating to watch the process of the cars been built. Starting with raw sheets of metal all hand worked by craftsmen into beautiful shapes, then the shaped pannels getting clamped together and the car taking shape on a huge engineers table.Then welded together, checked and rechecked that every dimention was true. Watching you taking your Aston back to bare metal remineded me of those cars I saw being built back then.
I look forward to following your journey rebuilding your cars.
Very interesting comment. I really enjoy these videos and seeing the restorations progress.
The body is starting to look real good
Nothing wrong with a bit of bog on the panels 👍👍👍
Thanks! I’ll indeed, when applied sensibly it does the trick!
One day I hope to get into aluminum shaping. Any form of panel work is truly an art form.
It really is…I’m very new to it as you can probably tell. Thankfully dent repair is a lot more simple than creating panels from scratch!
@@HudsonAutoFilms Nonsense! You clearly have an idea of what you are doing.
I worked for a company that processed new imported cars and a lot of them got damaged in transit.
Minor dent's were removed by the "dinger" who used a paintless dent removal technique, bigger dents were filled and painted.
But on very rare occasions the dent would be so big that they would have to fill it with lead or change the panel, whatever was cheapest/easiest and the eventual new owner would be none the wiser.
I have been following your videos with great interest and found them fascinating, keep the good work
Thank you! I’m really glad you’re enjoying them! Lots of fun to come :)
Very satisfying to watch. I can almost hear the car enjoying the face lift and massage. Great fun. Bunker is a great space. Shame to see the TR4 and Defender go but...needs must.....thanks for a great video and God bless.
Haha I think the car was very happy! The bunker is a good space. I’ll have more content there soon. Sad to see the other cars go, but I’m excited to focus on the Astons!
Hi Charlie,
Excellent work thus far.
It is of utmost importance to use filler ONLY on primed surfaces! Tge PPG 2 part epoxy primer is industry standard, and you can fill away as it will seal the aluminum and provide a great base for the filler. Under no circumstances should filler be applied to bare aluminum.
My car had a couple of those areas, and the ally corroded horribly from the acids.
You're going to need a spray booth after metalwork.
Winter is coming, and tgat now bare ally will oxydise, so you'll be taking a D/A to the car again before priming.
No air compressor?
Perhaps a Christmas gift...
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom! It’s coming together slowly! Thank for the advice. Definitely no filler will be applied to the lovely aluminium! I’ll use the primer mentioned as well. I have a giant inflatable spray booth which will be sufficient for priming!
It Will be nice to have it all in primer.
Take care sir!
I think the only way you will be able to work out those subtle imperfections and dark marks is to give it a quick blow-over with some dark primer.
Then by light sanding you can see where you have been and the problems will be instantly visible.
Trying to judge bare metal alone is a fool's errand.
Also, bear in mind, using a heavier primer later on can also eliminate some of the scratches and save you skimming with filler.
Absolutely. I’m trying to get the bigger areas done before primer. Then as you say, the primer and a guide coat will help the rest of the process. I’m testing some high build primers which will be lovely to use.
@@HudsonAutoFilms I would strongly recommend getting a spray gun if you haven't already got one. Don't use rattle-cans, the pressure is unreliable, the nozzles get clogged and you can run thicker primers.
Excellent video. It’s very interesting to listen to your thought process and see you work your magic on these beautiful cars. The comment by the former BT engineer who witnessed the cars being hand built at Aston Martin is fascinating.
Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying. Indeed, what a site that must have been!
Love how you're bringing these Astons back. It must be so sad to see your Triumph and your Landy go.
At the moment I'm going through the same thing as you but on Mk1 Clio.
For removing Paint I found Poly Discs very effective. They don't grind the metal, just the paint and put no heat into the metal.
The other thing I've done is used a Durabloc which is
11" long with a velcro backing. I've then put a light coat of black paint and using diagonal sanding in different directions found the high spots. If I can get a dolly behind the panel I've used a big file with a bent handle or a slapping hammer/spoon to take the dents out. They won't be perfect but less filler will be needed. The boot dent and the rear wing might need lead as they are so deep.
Hope this helps!
Excellent video again, and interesting you have become more pragmatic about the use of filler. Absolutely perfect filler-free bodywork is nigh-on impossible to achieve, but more importantly for me the tedium and frustration of trying to reach that point can really reduce your enjoyment of restoring the car too. The the reason why I work on smokey old rust buckets is I enjoy the processes and the satisfaction of always just slightly improving my skills each day. Take that away and I'd never bother again.
Enjoying the content and it's refreshing you are open to advise and opinion on the builds keep being true to yourself my friend
Thank you! It’s a constant evolution, but I’m loving the process!
Glad this popped up in my feed! I’ve learned something and appreciate the history lessons alongside cool metal work. 🎉
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed! Lots more fun to come with these old Astons!
Coming along nicely. I love a W123. I jad a 280E saloon for several years and loved it. It got rusty way beyond my ability to repair so had to go. I really miss it.
They do suffer from corrosion. Like most things pre 2000! But certainly the set of W123 all need some welding.,.
Do a more detailed video dedicated to the Bunker. People will be interested!
Will do!
All your cars are from the UK, I’m from the states, and none of my cars are American. I guess England just made cooler cars back in the day. In my opinion, Germany and Japan made some really cool classic cars. Sorry to hear you have to sell your Defender and Triumph
Loving these videos. Especially excited over the DBS/6. and looking I'm very much forward to the final results. I like your approach and that you're not going all 'heritage' with the restorations. I'd love to do this.
Thank you! I’m glad you’re enjoying. It’s fun that they’re progressing! I have to say, I’m particularly taken by the DBS6. Lots of room for creativity being so unoriginal!
It seems completely reasonable that filler was used on the original cars. Just think of someone hammering out whole body panels. What are the chances that they’d be perfect, or even consistent from car to car or panel to panel? It’s easy to imagine someone later in the process, before paint, finding the need to smoothen things out with thin coats of filler and a lot of filing/sanding. Reflexively, people revere the idea of things being hand made, but really, you can’t beat a machine doing the same thing over and over.
Will be interesting to see how the replacement boot fits. As these cars were hand built, panels from one car may not fit another very well. What I've heard.
I’ve ran into that problem with the bonnet. When I got the car it had a later bonnet. So I bought the correct type…which didn’t fit even close. Two bonnets later, I have one that fits. The boots are a bit more simple as there is a lot more adjustment and a higher tolerance panel gap!
A good spray on filler primer would fix those little spots.
Indeed! It’s nice to get the nasty bits out with the sander, but past a certain point you’re just taking away too much metal…that was never perfect in the first place!
A great video. One of your best. I love how you speed parts up. The panel beating is quite funny. Good music too. Your own? I’m hearing hints of Eno, Bibio, Boards of Canada.
Thank you! It’s nice to see progress. Not my music! But I try to find some fun pieces to help the sanding fly by!
Beautiful work :)
Thank you!
Your doing a great job , i suggest you refine the body panels as much as possible then get some aluminum filler and level everything out . Novol classic car products are a must on this restoration me thinks .
Totally agree. And thank for the advice! I’ll check them out!
I thoroughly enjoy your work on this series but it constantly reminded me why I should NEVER take on a project like this!!
I’m glad you’re enjoying! And I have moment where I feel overwhelmed, but I know it will be worth it!
@@HudsonAutoFilms - Those "moments" are pretty much inevitable! Just take a day off and put it down briefly. Everyone needs breaks and pushing through without breaks is what will cause you to abandon this part of your life altogether!
Just take days off BEFORE things get too hard!
Very good!
Thank you!
Remember they were hand made !❤
It’s hard to forget!!
Fantastic work. Having watched the bodywork process with other restorations, such as @retropowercars and @Barkaways, they do a lot of the final surface levelling with a heavy coat of polyester build material that they then spend many days sanding to perfection before going on to an epoxy primer. They clearly try to start with as level a metal surface as possible, but seem to avoid the usual skim of traditional filler by effectively spraying the whole car with polyester. I guess it all depends on how low the low spots are. For that defect in the boot is it possible to melt an aluminium brazing/filler rod and then sand back?
Hi Glyn, I think there is a danger of panel distortion using that technique
That hard dent in the boot, could you use aluminium solder? Or is the metal to Thin?
My mopeds are aluminium frame (zündapp) i use aluminium solder with success, to fix cracks or missisng pices etc..
Martin
That could work. But I think I’ll put a spare boot on for ease. Then it will be a totally perfect panel!
nothing wrong with filler if it's used correctly. just a thin coat ove those low spots that you can't hammer out. all concourse cars have it.
Agreed, people misusing it has resulted in too much cynical comments on it. But as you say, used correctly, it’s the way to get concourse
Where's the Lancia ? More on that please!
It’s coming! Just filming a few episodes on it so I can upload them more consistently!
Surely you'd be better off using a body file or large flat sanding block. That da sander is too small to give a flat, even finish
Is it a conscious decision not to use a dolly on the other side of the metal when you hammer? Is that because it’s aluminium?
Hi Greg, In this case yes. But most notably, when I was removing the major corner dent, I wasn’t actually directly hammering the metal. But had a small buck I made and placed inside, which was the desired shape. I should have shown this. So it wasn’t overly necessary to have a dolly on the outside.
Lots of lead loading was used
No lead on Astons, it doesn't stick to aluminium.
It wouldn’t work with the aluminium. I always thought it was cool method to use on some repairs, but it seems to have got a bad wrap recently. I’m sure someone could tell me why. But I forget off the top of my head!