I am currently doing this repair on my Coachman Freelander. I am going to use through bolts with lock nuts - I don't believe it is overkill but is necessary for a lasting repair. If the factory installed self drilling screws worked out in only 33,000 miles - I believe that the bolts/lock nuts are required to make this a more permanent repair. This joint is constantly under stress from the differential movement of the cab roof and bunk floor - the screws are just not up to the job and will work loose again. I will countersink tapered heads into the plywood bunk floor so that they don't stick up into the bunk area.
Not a bad idea to through bolt the connection. I just didn’t like the idea of how big the nut was either on the top or underneath the connection because I was worried the trim piece would bulge out too much. My unit has 145k miles and since only a few of the screws had backed off I went with just adding more larger screws. Should get me through another 20k miles or more. Hope your repair goes smoothly and have a great weekend.
**UPDATE*** Just came back from a 300 mile trip. No squeaks. My wife and I paid close attention to the overhead area the entire trip. Do this fix if you are having the squeaking noise on your class c motorhome.
I thought the squeak was coming from the plastic so I put a lot of effort into the top area
But I think this is The fix I was looking for
@@jasongreen1563 I hope this fix works for you. We’ve put about 2,500 miles on our motorhome since the repair and we haven’t had any squeaks.
I have a bad squeak so I am going to open it up this weekend. Not sure what I will find but I have some idea now that I have seen your experience.
I am currently doing this repair on my Coachman Freelander. I am going to use through bolts with lock nuts - I don't believe it is overkill but is necessary for a lasting repair. If the factory installed self drilling screws worked out in only 33,000 miles - I believe that the bolts/lock nuts are required to make this a more permanent repair. This joint is constantly under stress from the differential movement of the cab roof and bunk floor - the screws are just not up to the job and will work loose again. I will countersink tapered heads into the plywood bunk floor so that they don't stick up into the bunk area.
Not a bad idea to through bolt the connection. I just didn’t like the idea of how big the nut was either on the top or underneath the connection because I was worried the trim piece would bulge out too much. My unit has 145k miles and since only a few of the screws had backed off I went with just adding more larger screws. Should get me through another 20k miles or more. Hope your repair goes smoothly and have a great weekend.
**UPDATE***
Just came back from a 300 mile trip. No squeaks. My wife and I paid close attention to the overhead area the entire trip. Do this fix if you are having the squeaking noise on your class c motorhome.