Great video. I have no tools, or way to raise up my truck, or skill, but this made me think if I did, I'd be fixing mine right now instead of someone trying to tell me it will cost more than I paid for the truck 20 + years ago. Thanks for helping everyone out.
+SixRavenEight /SMBW You’re welcome. At least if you’ve seen what needs to be done on UA-cam, you can have some idea of whether or not you’re getting ripped off when somebody else does it for you.
way better video than most mechanic videos. plus, I have the same problem with the same GM engine and his words echo what my mechanic told me about tackling it.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
Decent video showing some of the problems you can run into, and how to deal with them. I just removed my first three freeze plugs, from a 1989 Escort engine, and learned a few things: -Trying to pull out a freeze plug as hoohoohoblin first tried, probably rarely works, since there's too much grip between the plug and the engine. - Instead of using a screwdriver to hammer on, use a small all-metal chisel--it will transfer more force to the plug, while the screwdriver handle will insulate too much of the force from reaching the plug. -If the plug won't come out when you hammer on it, clean all around its edge, and then squirt some penetrating oil around its edge, to try to break up a little of the crud that's holding it in place. You could use the type that comes out of the can freezing cold, to shrink the plug a little. - Use a brass replacement (as hoohoohoblin did), since it won't rust, and won't corrode nearly as fast as a "normal" galvanized steel plug. - Many people do use some kind of sealant, like Permatex for water pumps, gasket shellac, etc., though no doubt some sealants are inappropriate, like the type that doesn't harden. If the new plug leaks, you could smear some Permatex for water pumps around its edge, since it's pretty tough, and resists breakdown by the glycol that's in the antifreeze. I used it to temporarily seal some pinhole leaks in two of my freeze plugs, and it held up for the two days I drove around with it in place, but I changed the plugs right after that just to be safe, but when I chipped off the dried Permatex, it seemed pretty tough and probably would have lasted a lot longer. - Use two different socket sizes to hammer in the new plug, to minimize damaging it, and to allow you to install it evenly. First use one that's larger than the plug, which will prevent you from installing it cocked (which might leak) since the deepest you'll be able to hammer it in all around, will be flush with the engine. When the plug is flush with the engine, switch to a smaller socket that will fit inside the edge of the plug, and hammer it in no more than about another sixteenth of an inch.
hey man, a lot better video than 90% of the people put up. The same freeze plug just went out on mine. now i know how easy it will be to change. THANKS!
Permatex Non-RTV products are actually specified for this purpose. (Aviation, Permatex #1(says on label), or even anerobic(locktite)). Unless the hole is new there is a risk of leak.
Same thing just happen today. 1999 chevy suburban. I notice a leak on the passengers side. Took a look and there was antifeeze all over the starter. It Was leaking small amounts of fluid. I could not see where the leak was coming from because the starter was blocking the view. now I know where to look, will work on it tomorrow after work. Thanks for the upload, great info. Thank you.
Freeze Plug is a misnomer. It's a core sand clean-out plug for when the block is being cast. The block can crack very nicely in the winter w/o touching the so called "freeze plugs" .
I know when I replaced them on my 53 Plymouth I used a and hammer and I was so scared I was going to punch too far. It turned out ok and I replaced them all with the rubber expansion plugs. Once again great video.
At the risk of sounding pedantic, "freeze plug" is a misnomer. They are really just there to fill holes in the block that need to exist during the manufacturing process, which is why they're never called freeze plugs in the service manuals - usually they'll be called "core plugs" or similar. While it's true that the plugs *might* pop out and save your block from cracking if the coolant freezes, that's not their intended purpose, and it's actually much more likely that the plugs *won't* prevent the block cracking.
Good info. I didn't know that. I've always heard them called freeze plugs. Fortunately, the temperature never gets below freezing here, so I won't ever have to test them.
dunebasher1971 I'm glad somebody else knows the facts. I've always called them Welch plugs but same thing. If your block freezes your in trouble where the plugs pop or not.
best way to remove old plug (works for me all the time) use a large ratchet extension and hammer, hit it right in the edge plug went inside engine and you can pull it out Whit pliers!! use a rubber plug is better!!
Very nice!!! but that line you mentioned was a trans cooler line. I'll be doing those damn plugs on my 99 altima, they will be a pita since I need to remove all the front items motor mounts exhaust manifold water pump alternator etc. Wish me luck
been trying to find the location for the freeze out plug on the chevy g20 4.3 enging, this is the only one that i found on u tube that give u want u ask for
I suspect this to be my sister’s problem on her 06 Envoy, leaking bad on her passenger side. I checked her upper and lower rad hoses they’re dry. The thermostat is dry because I had just replaced it. The radiator is completely fine. I just see it dripping almost all the coolant I pour in from the back bottom of the motor. Fingers crossed it’s that and not a crack in the block 🤞🏼
glad to see I'm not the only one having a hell of a time with it. I wonder if it's the puncture in the middle messing up the leverage, since mine is blown out like yours was.
+Mari Pow this one was really hard to get out. I saw other videos on UA-cam where people just popped it out easily, but mine was definitely stuck. I didn't do any damage when I got it out the way I did in the video. Be very careful.
yeah, there was a lot of swearing and I had to take a break. I'll try again in the morning. I might just try to keep tearing out the middle like you wound up doing
I finally got it out after a few days half heartedly tapping (with a screwdriver and hammer, not the drilling type of tapping) tearing, sawing, and grinding at it, got most of the middle torn out (with regular magnet sweeps to pick up little flecks of steel) eventually someone with a bit more muscle and a bit less discouragement was able to tap at the rim until it buckled in and it finally did the pivot thing it was supposed to. The beveled edge was all corroded, so I guess that's why it was so stuck.
My LA360 is using those rubber expansion plugs on one side and looks to have the orginal "freeze plugs" on the other. Don't know how long exaclty those rubber plugs have been in there but they're already weeping coolant while the other side is bone dry. Good part is that one can simply torque down some more on the nut. I've been doing that 2x time and eventually it starts leaking again so...
Grew up in NY, then lived in FL for years. Now I'm in the mountains of NC and keep seeing used cars with "Blown Freeze Plug". I guess it's expensive to have fixed by someone else, so this is often given as a reason for the car being cheaper. Looks like if it's the right plug it's a few hours in the driveway (for a particularly stuck one) and 2 bucks.
this was very helpful mine just starting leaking today at the same plug weird thing is that all the vids i have seen they seem to all be leaking at the starter side rear plug i wonder if that is just a goof on GMs part lol oh well my blazer is a 94 so i hope it wont be such a head ache for me lol thanks again.
I’m confused, you show the expanding rubber plug that you would turn the screw after inserting and say that you will sand down any rough edges before putting it in, but then after getting the old plug out you put a regular metal plug in instead. What happened to the rubber thing?
I figured the metal plug would last long without leaking. I kept the rubber one around to use in case I’m on the road and one of the other plugs blows out.
The plug is there to seal the hole after the foundry work where sand was put to cast the block as nothing to do with releasing when water freezes in the block
Contrary to the recommendations in this video, most other YT videos use a socket or similar, which is wider than the freeze plug and does not fit inside of it; thereby avoiding the problem of accidentaly pounding the freeze plug into the block further than necessary and even risking it popping all the way inside. Also, most other videos I've seen recommend using some sealer on the plug, such as gasket sealer or silicone etc.
Hello, Yesterday we got problem water leakage from engine block core plug. We have been replaced with new core plug, but it still have leakage again. So can i apply the sealant on engine block or core plug? What kind of sealant is better? Can you advise to me?
Maybe you could remove the metal plug and replace it with a rubber plug. I bet the rubber would make a better seal. I wouldn't trust a chemical sealant, but if the leak is slow, you could try some of the radiator leak sealant they sell at the auto parts store.
Having the same issue on a 91 buick, aready changed one and another one just started leaking. For whatever reason gm used steel plugs and not brass, so they rust alot faster over time..
I got a 95 astro same freeze plug is bad and i cant get it to budge mine is really rusted and corroded and my screwdriver just keeps slipping and poking wholes in it. Do you have any suggestions ? Much appreciated
TheGMlover1 Mine was bad as well. You have to be careful not to damage the block while getting it out. I made holes in it, then bent a flap up and grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out.
They are not to protect your block from cracking. It’s technical name is core plug. It is just a plug to fill in a hole that was made for casting sand to flow from after the block is cast.
So I own a IROC-Z...its the original 305...my mechanic said he damaged a bearing in the engine when he removed the freeze plug? Said he has to take apart the entire top end of the engine and what not....said that he would pay for everything. Question is, was this a benefit for me? Because I basically am getting a rebuild...and or inspection at the least...and 2 what bearing is he talking about?
+Jeremy B The freeze plug plugs a hole in the water jacket, which is a compartment around the engine that is full of water. Maybe a put the freeze plug it in wrong, and all the water leaked out, and your engine overheated and damage was done. When you take out a freeze plug, all you can see is a little section of the ends of where the water sits, but all of the moving parts are behind a wall of cast-iron. If you wants to rebuild your engine for free, that sounds like a good deal.
hoohoohoblin so he had to take out the rear main seal...mayne I thought he said freeze plug and it was a plug around the rear main seal and he damaged the camshaft bearing around there???
hi, i dont really understand the damage here i could cause , but if i battle to pry mine out and even put a new one it. Okay so my worry is, if u hammer it, it is to get it to warp s that u can grab it or pry it with a nice flat screw driver or grip the edge with a long nose pliers right ? Also, if u hammer it to remove it, how does it not fall in to the hole? i dont get it and if u put a new one in,, u tap it in with a socket like you showed m but how deep does it go in? doesnt it fall inside if it is too much ? is there like a lip or edge or something which makes it sit flush ?
+Imre Csoka behind the hole is the engine block, so if you accidentally hammer something pointy through the plug, you could put a hole in the block, which would allow water into the oil. If you accidentally mess up the edges of the hole, then the new plug might leak.
I am fixing to put new freeze plugs in my car. 1992 Suzuki Swift and the are under the valve cover by the spark plug holes. All the stuff I read online said to use Permatex High Tack. Is there any reason to not use it? This car sees revs of 7k rpms almost daily. just wanting your opinion on this. Thanks.
Richard Allen I am not a Suzuki expert, but I have used a lot of Permatex in my life, and it is good stuff. go ahead and use it, and make sure you give it enough time to dry.
thank you I will. I plan I letting it dry atleast 24 hours before I put her all back together. plus I a going to put some new paint on the valve cover while its off.
The guy at the parts store is full of it. I've seen those rubber ones last 5 - 10 with no issues. I guess eventually the bolt in the center could rust out but it's about the same time period of the metal plugs.
I did this today and had to try the hacksaw blade method. I ended up damaging the hole and it made it worse. Does anyone recommend a way of fixing damaged freeze plug holes? Jb weld and sandpaper?
I don’t know. I think you may be on the right track with the JB Weld, or maybe you could use some permatex gasket material. If you use the JB Weld, you will never be able to replace that plug again. But I bet it would seal the water in.
Yuppp same 1 I need to replace 96 astro I bought dirt cheap....Guys daughter paid for ALL to be replace, yeah right they only changed the one on drivers side easiest of all lol....Then good flush or 3 to get the overload of black gunk stop leak they filled it with.....Did the water pump n hoses already and cracked fan blade....Pump impellor had no blades moving the all water in it pfffft. After 45 years wrenching still see there's a lot of Hack Shops out there.
Those plugs aren't there to protect your block from cracking although if you have a freeze up they "MAY" pop out but it is still highly likely that your block will crack. They are there because the casting process required the extra orifices. Also using a screwdriver as a chisel is totally the wrong tool for the job, a big round punch always works best. Lastly those frost plugs would never rot out like that if your coolant was changed periodically as over time tiny amounts of exhaust gasses get into your coolant and make it corrosive.
People are quick to look down on someone for saying something incorrect, basically implying they are stupid, yet they fail to realize that right under their nose is evidence of multiple people over several years having already corrected the guy. So your attempt to make someone else look stupid backfired, it just made you look stupid, because you're repeating shit that's all over this comment section.
Same plug is leaking on my 94 chevy pickup 350. right after the cold season so im sure it got popped out a bit. Im too nervous to try to replace it myself but after this vid i think i might try it. maybe it just needs to be tapped back in again??
+Cobra Commander it is pretty easy to do, but I'm not sure how much a professional would charge to do it. The part cost $.99, but I'm not sure how much labor they would charge. It is probably pretty cheap.
I had a Buick Reatta with the 3.8 with a leaky freeze-plug, pulled the motor, popped the plug out to see a solid wall of caked rust, cleaned out what I could, replaced the plug & re-filled what I could to check for leaks, the "wall of rust" was solid from the plug to the pan-rail....the block was eaten away paper thin....you could see green coolant "appearing" on the face of the block below the FP , seeping out......block was toast. I don't know what the customer did when we tallied up the cost of a new engine, last I saw the Reatta was taken away on a flat-bed.
i ot a quot of 300 to replace on freeze plug lol why would that custy pay urt retaded price for a new engine. probabl wanted 2x what the car was worth thieves
im having problem with my 1985 Lincoln Towncar I put a new water pump but the water running out under the car but on the passage side do I need new freeze plug please I need help
are you sure that its a freeze plug? or possibly a blown head gasket or cracked block. easiest way to check is to have someone pour water down the radiator and listen for the drip / flow. try to find where its coming from then you'll get a better idea at what you need to do
Making an easy job difficult. This way is the wrong way. Punch the whole plug right in from the get go, turn it sideways and flick it out with the pliers you had there. 1 minute job. The way this was done risks scratching the sealing edge around the outside of the block. You then hammer the new plug in using a socket that just fits inside the plug. Put some sealant around the outside of the plug
Oh metal if that fills the hole that is nothing more than a means for the casting sand to be removed. Why have you been forsaken and labeled a freeze plug? Por que??!!!!
Cool thanks. Still and handy video in 2021, wonder if there's an update on my comment in 2033.If your reading this in 2033, the world was a fucked up place back in 2021, but most cars run on Petrol/Gas, not electric.
+Scott Hankel There probably is. You can look under the car for something like the plug in the video. Or you could search an auto parts website for a freeze plug for your engine. If they have one for sale, then it means your car has them.
the last time i checked the plug count on my 84 350 i think a complete kit was something like 15 plugs, go to autoparts shop and ask for a complete kit
Great video. I have no tools, or way to raise up my truck, or skill, but this made me think if I did, I'd be fixing mine right now instead of someone trying to tell me it will cost more than I paid for the truck 20 + years ago. Thanks for helping everyone out.
+SixRavenEight /SMBW You’re welcome. At least if you’ve seen what needs to be done on UA-cam, you can have some idea of whether or not you’re getting ripped off when somebody else does it for you.
God bless youtube. This video shows exactly what I need to do in the driveway right now. You rule!
I am glad I could help. It is a pretty easy job.
This just happened to my 85 El Camino in the same spot (thank god) and thank goodness for this guys short sweet video on how to fix it.
way better video than most mechanic videos. plus, I have the same problem with the same GM engine and his words echo what my mechanic told me about tackling it.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Gerald Jace instablaster =)
Decent video showing some of the problems you can run into, and how to deal with them.
I just removed my first three freeze plugs, from a 1989 Escort engine, and learned a few things:
-Trying to pull out a freeze plug as hoohoohoblin first tried, probably rarely works, since there's too much grip between the plug and the engine.
- Instead of using a screwdriver to hammer on, use a small all-metal chisel--it will transfer more force to the plug, while the screwdriver handle will insulate too much of the force from reaching the plug.
-If the plug won't come out when you hammer on it, clean all around its edge, and then squirt some penetrating oil around its edge, to try to break up a little of the crud that's holding it in place. You could use the type that comes out of the can freezing cold, to shrink the plug a little.
- Use a brass replacement (as hoohoohoblin did), since it won't rust, and won't corrode nearly as fast as a "normal" galvanized steel plug.
- Many people do use some kind of sealant, like Permatex for water pumps, gasket shellac, etc., though no doubt some sealants are inappropriate, like the type that doesn't harden. If the new plug leaks, you could smear some Permatex for water pumps around its edge, since it's pretty tough, and resists breakdown by the glycol that's in the antifreeze. I used it to temporarily seal some pinhole leaks in two of my freeze plugs, and it held up for the two days I drove around with it in place, but I changed the plugs right after that just to be safe, but when I chipped off the dried Permatex, it seemed pretty tough and probably would have lasted a lot longer.
- Use two different socket sizes to hammer in the new plug, to minimize damaging it, and to allow you to install it evenly. First use one that's larger than the plug, which will prevent you from installing it cocked (which might leak) since the deepest you'll be able to hammer it in all around, will be flush with the engine. When the plug is flush with the engine, switch to a smaller socket that will fit inside the edge of the plug, and hammer it in no more than about another sixteenth of an inch.
Excellent advice. Thanks,
hey man, a lot better video than 90% of the people put up. The same freeze plug just went out on mine. now i know how easy it will be to change. THANKS!
You're welcome. I am glad I could help.
I just rebuilt my 96 Tahoe engine with 312,000 miles. I replace about 8 plugs dry but one leaks. I'm glad it behind the starter.
Permatex Non-RTV products are actually specified for this purpose. (Aviation, Permatex #1(says on label), or even anerobic(locktite)). Unless the hole is new there is a risk of leak.
Same thing just happen today. 1999 chevy suburban.
I notice a leak on the passengers side. Took a look and there was antifeeze all over the starter. It Was leaking small amounts of fluid. I could not see where the leak was coming from because the starter was blocking the view.
now I know where to look, will work on it tomorrow after work.
Thanks for the upload, great info.
Thank you.
You're welcome. Good news is that this is a cheap and fairly easy job to do.
Freeze Plug is a misnomer. It's a core sand clean-out plug for when the block is being cast. The block can crack very nicely in the winter w/o touching the so called "freeze plugs"
.
#Facts
Yup, popping when frozen is a side effect... Lol
Yep...and two of mine leaked after the engine overheats not freezes.
You ,give options, but finally you did the right things, very nice job tanks
You’re welcome
ahhh the wonderful sound of cast iron ping when you hammer something on it.
It's a beautiful sound!
This is just the right way.
Best not to use any sealant
Never have no complains.good video .👍👍👍
Thanks
I know when I replaced them on my 53 Plymouth I used a and hammer and I was so scared I was going to punch too far. It turned out ok and I replaced them all with the rubber expansion plugs. Once again great video.
thank you so much for the video help me understand more about this problem that i have with my truck have a good day
You’re welcome
Aursum buddy. That be my mission first thing in the morning so I can get to work lol. Thanks so much!!
+joseph tonga You’re welcome.
This happened to my 85 El Camino in the same spot (thank god) thanks for showing me how to do it.
You’re welcome.
Still until 2033 when this thing wears out again! 🔥🔥🥰
your fine with cutting it out, i use a dremill. and the good plugs are brass to compensate for the round
Thanks. Good to know.
i got to do one tomorrow
At the risk of sounding pedantic, "freeze plug" is a misnomer. They are really just there to fill holes in the block that need to exist during the manufacturing process, which is why they're never called freeze plugs in the service manuals - usually they'll be called "core plugs" or similar. While it's true that the plugs *might* pop out and save your block from cracking if the coolant freezes, that's not their intended purpose, and it's actually much more likely that the plugs *won't* prevent the block cracking.
Good info. I didn't know that. I've always heard them called freeze plugs. Fortunately, the temperature never gets below freezing here, so I won't ever have to test them.
im in tucson its 110 degrees had a leak today tech said it was a freeze plug? wtf 300 bucks lololol
dunebasher1971 I'm glad somebody else knows the facts. I've always called them Welch plugs but same thing. If your block freezes your in trouble where the plugs pop or not.
Absolutely correct. Thanks for dispelling a common myth.
I have one on my Generac standby generator leaking. Looks like an easy job. I will order a plug and take care of it. Thanks.
You’re welcome. It should be easy.
I got the easiest one thankfully. Looks new and leaking around the seal. Thought intake gasket at first. Thanks!
You’re welcome
I appreciate u boss this helped me locate my leak on my 350
You’re welcome
best way to remove old plug (works for me all the time) use a large ratchet extension and hammer, hit it right in the edge plug went inside engine and you can pull it out Whit pliers!!
use a rubber plug is better!!
Great video, explanation, and visual focusing! Thanks! Dude! 👍🏻👍🏻
You’re welcome
Does the motor in a 2008 2.5 Volkswagen beetle motor has to be pulled out, in order to put a freeze plug in
Very nice!!! but that line you mentioned was a trans cooler line. I'll be doing those damn plugs on my 99 altima, they will be a pita since I need to remove all the front items motor mounts exhaust manifold water pump alternator etc. Wish me luck
Good luck!
@@hoohoohoblin Thank you!!
6:51 "just put it in dry"
😂😂LMMFAO!! DID HE REALLY JUST SAY THAT RIGHT NOW??!!!! I'M DEAD!!!!😂😂 I can't even right now!!!
Jam it in there!!!
been trying to find the location for the freeze out plug on the chevy g20 4.3 enging, this is the only one that i found on u tube that give u want u ask for
thank you so much, the exact same plug went out on my s10 and now my under carraige is all orange.
You're welcome.
Thank you for the video it will be a big help this whole week.
You’re welcome
I suspect this to be my sister’s problem on her 06 Envoy, leaking bad on her passenger side. I checked her upper and lower rad hoses they’re dry. The thermostat is dry because I had just replaced it. The radiator is completely fine. I just see it dripping almost all the coolant I pour in from the back bottom of the motor. Fingers crossed it’s that and not a crack in the block 🤞🏼
Very well explaned, good job..
Thanks.
Why do you say not to use a sealer around the new freeze plug wont that help seal better and prevents
Small leaks.?
What is the easiest way to get the one out behind the motor mount?
How much freeze plugs do these 4.3 have?
glad to see I'm not the only one having a hell of a time with it. I wonder if it's the puncture in the middle messing up the leverage, since mine is blown out like yours was.
+Mari Pow this one was really hard to get out. I saw other videos on UA-cam where people just popped it out easily, but mine was definitely stuck. I didn't do any damage when I got it out the way I did in the video. Be very careful.
yeah, there was a lot of swearing and I had to take a break. I'll try again in the morning. I might just try to keep tearing out the middle like you wound up doing
I finally got it out after a few days half heartedly tapping (with a screwdriver and hammer, not the drilling type of tapping) tearing, sawing, and grinding at it, got most of the middle torn out (with regular magnet sweeps to pick up little flecks of steel) eventually someone with a bit more muscle and a bit less discouragement was able to tap at the rim until it buckled in and it finally did the pivot thing it was supposed to. The beveled edge was all corroded, so I guess that's why it was so stuck.
My LA360 is using those rubber expansion plugs on one side and looks to have the orginal "freeze plugs" on the other. Don't know how long exaclty those rubber plugs have been in there but they're already weeping coolant while the other side is bone dry. Good part is that one can simply torque down some more on the nut. I've been doing that 2x time and eventually it starts leaking again so...
That’s a little bit scary. I’ve never tried the rubber ones, and have always just put new metal ones in. I think I will do that in the future.
Lucky to have that much room to work.
Grew up in NY, then lived in FL for years. Now I'm in the mountains of NC and keep seeing used cars with "Blown Freeze Plug". I guess it's expensive to have fixed by someone else, so this is often given as a reason for the car being cheaper. Looks like if it's the right plug it's a few hours in the driveway (for a particularly stuck one) and 2 bucks.
Yeah. It is cheap and fairly easy to fix, as long as there wasn't any damage done by running the engine without coolant.
this was very helpful mine just starting leaking today at the same plug weird thing is that all the vids i have seen they seem to all be leaking at the starter side rear plug i wonder if that is just a goof on GMs part lol oh well my blazer is a 94 so i hope it wont be such a head ache for me lol thanks again.
You're welcome. None of the other freeze plugs have blown out yet.
I’m confused, you show the expanding rubber plug that you would turn the screw after inserting and say that you will sand down any rough edges before putting it in, but then after getting the old plug out you put a regular metal plug in instead. What happened to the rubber thing?
I figured the metal plug would last long without leaking. I kept the rubber one around to use in case I’m on the road and one of the other plugs blows out.
The plug is there to seal the hole after the foundry work where sand was put to cast the block as nothing to do with releasing when water freezes in the block
Contrary to the recommendations in this video, most other YT videos use a socket or similar, which is wider than the freeze plug and does not fit inside of it; thereby avoiding the problem of accidentaly pounding the freeze plug into the block further than necessary and even risking it popping all the way inside. Also, most other videos I've seen recommend using some sealer on the plug, such as gasket sealer or silicone etc.
What size freeze plug is it?? Thanks.
Excellent info! Always wondered how to replace them.
So helpful ...Thanks
You’re welcome to
Hello,
Yesterday we got problem water leakage from engine block core plug. We have been replaced with new core plug, but it still have leakage again. So can i apply the sealant on engine block or core plug? What kind of sealant is better? Can you advise to me?
Maybe you could remove the metal plug and replace it with a rubber plug. I bet the rubber would make a better seal. I wouldn't trust a chemical sealant, but if the leak is slow, you could try some of the radiator leak sealant they sell at the auto parts store.
I've always used Permatex "aircraft head gasket cement" for these. Never had an issue. What is the reasoning for admonition not to use sealant?
I was told not to use sealant on it, but I don’t remember who told me. Seems like a good idea to put some in there.
Having the same issue on a 91 buick, aready changed one and another one just started leaking. For whatever reason gm used steel plugs and not brass, so they rust alot faster over time..
Quite often, if one goes bad all of the other ones are about to go bad as well.
I got a 95 astro same freeze plug is bad and i cant get it to budge mine is really rusted and corroded and my screwdriver just keeps slipping and poking wholes in it. Do you have any suggestions ? Much appreciated
TheGMlover1 Mine was bad as well. You have to be careful not to damage the block while getting it out. I made holes in it, then bent a flap up and grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out.
Use brass freeze plugs.
xman577 mlggg
!!!!great job!!!. I will try it with my suburban
Thanks. It should be easy if there isn't anything in the way.
Thank you so much. I have the exact vehicle and situation
You’re welcome. I hope you can get it fixed.
omg you saved my life!!! thank you so much for this video!!
+Mitchelle Ramirez You're welcome.
👍
They are not to protect your block from cracking. It’s technical name is core plug. It is just a plug to fill in a hole that was made for casting sand to flow from after the block is cast.
I still enjoyed the video though.
Thanks.
I have the same problem same motor (1993 chevy Silverado), but mine leaks from the engine heater block freeze plug.
So I own a IROC-Z...its the original 305...my mechanic said he damaged a bearing in the engine when he removed the freeze plug? Said he has to take apart the entire top end of the engine and what not....said that he would pay for everything. Question is, was this a benefit for me? Because I basically am getting a rebuild...and or inspection at the least...and 2 what bearing is he talking about?
+Jeremy B The freeze plug plugs a hole in the water jacket, which is a compartment around the engine that is full of water. Maybe a put the freeze plug it in wrong, and all the water leaked out, and your engine overheated and damage was done. When you take out a freeze plug, all you can see is a little section of the ends of where the water sits, but all of the moving parts are behind a wall of cast-iron. If you wants to rebuild your engine for free, that sounds like a good deal.
hoohoohoblin so he had to take out the rear main seal...mayne I thought he said freeze plug and it was a plug around the rear main seal and he damaged the camshaft bearing around there???
hi, i dont really understand the damage here i could cause , but if i battle to pry mine out and even put a new one it.
Okay so my worry is, if u hammer it, it is to get it to warp s that u can grab it or pry it with a nice flat screw driver or grip the edge with a long nose pliers right ?
Also, if u hammer it to remove it, how does it not fall in to the hole? i dont get it
and if u put a new one in,, u tap it in with a socket like you showed m but how deep does it go in? doesnt it fall inside if it is too much ? is there like a lip or edge or something which makes it sit flush ?
+Imre Csoka behind the hole is the engine block, so if you accidentally hammer something pointy through the plug, you could put a hole in the block, which would allow water into the oil. If you accidentally mess up the edges of the hole, then the new plug might leak.
yes, so i am also trying to find out, can it fall inside when you make it pivot? then how deep it is, and can u still grab it and pull it out ?
I am fixing to put new freeze plugs in my car. 1992 Suzuki Swift and the are under the valve cover by the spark plug holes. All the stuff I read online said to use Permatex High Tack. Is there any reason to not use it? This car sees revs of 7k rpms almost daily.
just wanting your opinion on this. Thanks.
Richard Allen I am not a Suzuki expert, but I have used a lot of Permatex in my life, and it is good stuff. go ahead and use it, and make sure you give it enough time to dry.
thank you I will. I plan I letting it dry atleast 24 hours before I put her all back together. plus I a going to put some new paint on the valve cover while its off.
I don't think it would hurt to add some Permatex. It would help seal any little holes and leaks.
thank you for the info and thank you for the video. it helped a lot. but mine will be easier to reach for sure.
It is actually a very good idea to use Permatex or equivalent on the plugs. If you have not done the plugs yet I highly recommend it
Thank A Lot. this Video Help Me A Hole Lot Of Time. ✌😁
You're welcome.
I have the same van. How many freeze plugs are there total on this engine?
I think there were six of them, but I don't own the van anymore, so I can't check.
The guy at the parts store is full of it. I've seen those rubber ones last 5 - 10 with no issues. I guess eventually the bolt in the center could rust out but it's about the same time period of the metal plugs.
Thank you for the video!
You’re welcome
I did this today and had to try the hacksaw blade method. I ended up damaging the hole and it made it worse. Does anyone recommend a way of fixing damaged freeze plug holes? Jb weld and sandpaper?
I don’t know. I think you may be on the right track with the JB Weld, or maybe you could use some permatex gasket material. If you use the JB Weld, you will never be able to replace that plug again. But I bet it would seal the water in.
Thx man, same fault in my impala -67
Peter Skata You're welcome.
well done on a great tutorial video.
Thanks.
Yuppp same 1 I need to replace 96 astro I bought dirt cheap....Guys daughter paid for ALL to be replace, yeah right they only changed the one on drivers side easiest of all lol....Then good flush or 3 to get the overload of black gunk stop leak they filled it with.....Did the water pump n hoses already and cracked fan blade....Pump impellor had no blades moving the all water in it pfffft. After 45 years wrenching still see there's a lot of Hack Shops out there.
Those plugs aren't there to protect your block from cracking although if you have a freeze up they "MAY" pop out but it is still highly likely that your block will crack. They are there because the casting process required the extra orifices. Also using a screwdriver as a chisel is totally the wrong tool for the job, a big round punch always works best. Lastly those frost plugs would never rot out like that if your coolant was changed periodically as over time tiny amounts of exhaust gasses get into your coolant and make it corrosive.
This is why they're actually called "core" plugs, right?
They will rot on a boat motor
A freeze plug is not to prevent the block from cracking . it is a way of getting the sand out of the block when it is cast .
People are quick to look down on someone for saying something incorrect, basically implying they are stupid, yet they fail to realize that right under their nose is evidence of multiple people over several years having already corrected the guy. So your attempt to make someone else look stupid backfired, it just made you look stupid, because you're repeating shit that's all over this comment section.
Excellent video sir!
Thank you.
I was doing this and it popped inside about an inch and now is stuck within the hole loosely.
Put it in dry..... I couldn't resist!!!!
Me neither
Same plug is leaking on my 94 chevy pickup 350. right after the cold season so im sure it got popped out a bit. Im too nervous to try to replace it myself but after this vid i think i might try it. maybe it just needs to be tapped back in again??
+Cobra Commander it is pretty easy to do, but I'm not sure how much a professional would charge to do it. The part cost $.99, but I'm not sure how much labor they would charge. It is probably pretty cheap.
Great video thanks.
"Don't wanna come out"!! Freeze your block. 😂
They actually are not freeze plugs anymore, on more modern blocks. They are actually used to take out the casting sand after they cast the engine.
I had a Buick Reatta with the 3.8 with a leaky freeze-plug, pulled the motor, popped the plug out to see a solid wall of caked rust, cleaned out what I could, replaced the plug & re-filled what I could to check for leaks, the "wall of rust" was solid from the plug to the pan-rail....the block was eaten away paper thin....you could see green coolant "appearing" on the face of the block below the FP , seeping out......block was toast. I don't know what the customer did when we tallied up the cost of a new engine, last I saw the Reatta was taken away on a flat-bed.
Yikes! Mine wasn't that bad, but it had do e rusty chunks in it. I hope it lasts a while.
i ot a quot of 300 to replace on freeze plug lol why would that custy pay urt retaded price for a new engine. probabl wanted 2x what the car was worth thieves
I sold the car about a little over a year after i replaced them, but even the rubber was like new when i sold it.
the early 4.3 has 8 freeze plugs (same as the small block) - 96 - present has 4 freeze plugs (only on the bottom)
Montrose Patriot my 98 has more than 4 freeze plugs.
Great video
Thanks
hoohoohoblin Sure thing
Great vid thank you.
You’re welcome
My roomate's Ford truck has a bad freeze plug under the motor mount.
+Casey Van those are hard to get to.
1998gmc I got a freeze plug behind the motor. how would I get to it
Those aren't fuel lines they're trans cooler lines lol
welsh plug?
So why no sealant??
thank u for this video..
+Edgar Benitez You're welcome.
Great Video!
Thanks!
frost plugs were not made to do that ....they are there because the holes were needed to cast the block
im having problem with my 1985 Lincoln Towncar I put a new water pump but the water running out under the car but on the passage side do I need new freeze plug please I need help
are you sure that its a freeze plug? or possibly a blown head gasket or cracked block. easiest way to check is to have someone pour water down the radiator and listen for the drip / flow. try to find where its coming from then you'll get a better idea at what you need to do
Was this stops to leak? Or did you have some?
Yes. It fixed the leak.
Making an easy job difficult. This way is the wrong way. Punch the whole plug right in from the get go, turn it sideways and flick it out with the pliers you had there. 1 minute job. The way this was done risks scratching the sealing edge around the outside of the block. You then hammer the new plug in using a socket that just fits inside the plug. Put some sealant around the outside of the plug
why don't you make a video showing the right way to do it....
JOJO B My method works every time, bash it in flick it out. Been doing it for years. Try it.
Top Dollar Were my instructions too difficult for you to understand?
JOJO B He can prove it himself easy enough.
JOJO B You were doing it wrong. Push in. turn it on edge and pull out. Easy
did you drain your radiator??
It drained itself when the freeze plug went bad.
ahhhhhh gotcha lol
Oh metal if that fills the hole that is nothing more than a means for the casting sand to be removed. Why have you been forsaken and labeled a freeze plug? Por que??!!!!
Everyone calls them freeze plugs. But you are 100% correct.
+scrimmy6969 Nope, core plugs, welch plugs and frost plugs also.
MrDiddumz Nope, never heard of that.
scrimmy6969 You have now.
Love it thanks hammer time 😆😂
You’re welcome
How’s that freeze plug holding 👍😆
I don’t know. I sold that van a while ago. I hope it still works. It worked the last few years that I had it.
@@hoohoohoblin Probably still holding!
Cool thanks. Still and handy video in 2021, wonder if there's an update on my comment in 2033.If your reading this in 2033, the world was a fucked up place back in 2021, but most cars run on Petrol/Gas, not electric.
You’re welcome.
can someone tell me if there is a freeze plug on a 2003 impala 3.8 litre
+Scott Hankel There probably is. You can look under the car for something like the plug in the video. Or you could search an auto parts website for a freeze plug for your engine. If they have one for sale, then it means your car has them.
how many freeze out plugs on 94 camaro 3.4
I don't know, but I would guess that there are 6.
Kyle Sullivan 31st
the last time i checked the plug count on my 84 350 i think a complete kit was something like 15 plugs, go to autoparts shop and ask for a complete kit
thanks 👍👍
Welcome 👍
careful with a grinder ..if you knick that block your in trouble. a quick jolt with dull air hammer chisel and it will come out.
+working shlub True. Thanks.
That hammer though 🤔
Bob the builder hammer.😂😂😂
Put in dry😂😂
Don't mind me and my dirty mind🤣